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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



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http://www.archive.org/details/journeywithsunarOOmcma 




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A Journey With tlie Sun 



Around the 



Pev. WilliciiiA McyWahon 



ILLUSTI^ATCD 



496 



TWO COPIES BEvElVED. 

Library of Congr«i% 
Office f the 

JUM 2-1900 

ReS^Iltor of Copyrtghtli 
•ECONO COP'^. 




SpyrigM kxk^ I'y 
l^ev. William McMaUoiA 



THE CATI 



KUIC UNI\'EI?^^E PUIUISHINO CO 
Clcvelcincl 



To the Coinniittee of A^rrciage- 
ineiAts ciivl to the Clergy ciiid Laity 
who [xirticipcited ii\ the festivities of 
n\[} Scicerclotai Silver Jul^ilee, and 
n^ade it possil^le for mc to "Jour- 
iiey \\'itl\ tl^e 5ua /^roLiiid riAO 
World," this book is (itfectioaately 

dedicated, by 

THE A\ITH0I5. 



Contents. 



CONTENTS. 
Introduction, ------- 17-18 

Chapter I. — Departure Westward from Cleveland 
— Booking Agencies — Chicago to Denver — 
Denver Incidents — Denver Cathedral — A Den- 
ver School — Colorado Springs — " Pike's Peak " 
— Manitou— The " Garden of the Gods "—The 
Royal Gorge ------ 19..28 

Chapter II. — Pueblo — Florence — The Royal Gorge 
— Leadville — Glenwood Springs — Salt Lake 
City — The Famous Mormon Buildings — The 
Mormon Tabernacle — The Great Salt Lake — 
"Mother Shipton's Prophecy" - - - 29-36 

Chapter III. — Sacramento — The State Capitol — 
A Knock-Down — San Francisco — The Strange 
Friend — The Golden Jubilee — A Drive with 
Father Yorke — Franciscan Fathers — The 
Jesuit Church — Aboard Ship — Farewells — 
Out on the Pacific - - - - - 37-45 

Chapter IV. — Aboard Ship-^The Crew— The Pas- 
sengers — Fire Alarm — A Storm — Seasick- 
ness — Loss of the "Colima" — Sunday at Sea 
.—Land— A Whale— Honolulu - ' - - 46-50 

Chapter V. — Honolulu — Catholicity in Honolulu — 
St. Joseph's Church — College of St. Louis — 
Honolulu a Conservatory — The Pali — A Letter 
in the Jungle — The English Language — In- 
habitants — The Hawaiian Islands — The Fire 
Department — Molokai — Missionaries — Father 
Damien— The Poet Stoddard's Tribute - - 51-63 



6 Contents. 

Chapter VI. — Off for Yokohama--^Chinese Gamb- 
lers — A Lost Day — Chinese Superstition — The 
Engines of the Peru — Another Storm — Waves 
of the Pacific — A Letter to the Children — 
Flying-Fish and Sea Birds — A Pacific Sunset — 
A Special Protection ----- 64-74 

Chapter VIL — Japan — Yokohama — Harbor of 
Yokohama — Boatmen — Ashore — Friends — 
The Bluff— Sisters of the Infant Jesus — The 
Jinrikisha — Queer Cause of Earthquakes — 
Japanese Theatres — A Little History - - 75-88 

Chapter VIII. — Tokio — A Japanese Railway Train 
— A Welcome to the Emperor — The City by 
Gaslight — Catholicity in Tokio — Buddhist 
Priests and Temples — Idols in Buddhist Tem- 
ple — Asakusa Temple — The Museum — Stores 
— Mode of Trucking — Government Buildings 
— A Japanese Household — A Japanese Tea - 84-94 

Chapter IX, — Off for Nikko — Farms and Farmers 
— Nikko — En Route to Kioto — First News of 
the Maine — Kioto — Osaka — Experience 
Teaches Wisdom — Parting Company at Kobe 95-101 

Chapter X. — The Far-Famed Inland Sea — Scenes 
on the Inland Sea — Nagasaki — Nagasaki Har- 
bor — Hunting a Church — Relics of the Mar- 
tyrs — Nagasaki Cathedral — A Superstition — 
The Holy Hill— The Pappenberg— The Martyrs 
of Japan — Farewell to Japan - - - 102-110 

Chapter XL — China— Hong-Kong — Redcoats at 
Mass — Off for Canton — Canton — Incidents of 
a Chair Ride — In a Pagoda — The United States 
Consul — River Life — The Execution Grounds 
— Punishments — A Coffin Factory — Policemen 
—Small Feet ------ 111-122 



Contents, 7 

Chapter XII. — Sticklers for Etiquette — The Art 
of Printing — Chinese School Boys — Duck 
Farmers — Catholicity in China — Tongues of 
the World — Poverty a Science — Passenger 
Wheelbarrows — " Fresh Fish " — The Great 
Wall — Examination Cells — Courtship — The 
Stores — Water Babies — Long Finger Nails — 
Hong-Kong Again — The Plague in India - 123-134 

Chapter XIII. — Hong-Kong to Singapore— Half- 
Way Around the Globe — Singapore Harbor — 
Advantages and Disadvantages — Money and 
Steamer — Malay Divers — Fish — Penang — 
Its People ------- 135-141 

Chapter XIV. — Colombo, Ceylon — The Landing 
— Little Sisters of the Poor — St. Joseph's 
College — Catholicity in Ceylon — Natives 
— A Victim of Prejudice — Characteristics of 
Ceylon — Scenes in Ceylon — Kandy, the An- 
cient Capital — Elephants — A.n Ideal Place - 142-152 

Chapter XV. — From Colombo to Aden — Buying a 
Ticket — Native Honesty ? — Life Aboard Ship 
—St. Patrick's Day— The Chief Seaport of 
Arabia — A Second Gibraltar — The Red Sea — 
A Suicide — Scene on the Suez Canal — The 
The Great Suez Canal — Ismalia — Arabs on a 
Journey — Ismalia to Cairo - - - - 153-164 

Chapter XVI. — Cairo — " Baksheesh " — The Pyra- 
mids — The Sphinx — Memphis — The Famous 
Citadel — England in Possession — English 
Military Barracks — The Mosque of Mehemet 
Ali— An Irish Turk— The Streets of Cairo— 
A Surfeit of Donkeys and Guides — " Dank 
Gott, Vone 1st Dead" —Old Cairo— The Nilo- 
meter — " Runners " — The Donkey Boys — 
Street Cars and Dwellings — Pilgrims — Off for 
Jerusalem - - - - . - - - 165-180 



8 Contents. 

Chapter XVII. — In the Land of Palestine — Dodg- 
ing Customs Officials — Jaifa — The House of 
Simon — Lydda — Across the Plain of Sharon — 
First Glimpse of Jerusalem — The " Casa Nova " 181-187 

Chapter XVIII. — Jerusalem — Exterior of the 
Holy Sepulchre — The Holy Sepulchre — Chapel 
of the Angel — Mass in the Holy Sepulchre — 
Chapel of the " Ecce Homo " — The Sisters of 
Sion — Sketch of Father Ratisbonne — Beth- 
lehem — The Holy Grotto — Mass in the Holy 
Grotto — Gethsemane — Mass at Gethsemane 188-200 

Chapter XIX. — Good Friday in Jerusalem — In 
the Footsteps of the Crucified One — An Inci- 
dent — Chapel of the Apparition — Easter Mass 
— A Memorable Excursion — On the Road to 
Jericho — Temptation — The Dead Sea — The 
River Jordan — The Legend of St. Christopher 
— Galgal — Jericho — Bethania _ _ - 201-214 

Chapter XX. — Wonderful and Sacred Memories 
Clustering About the City of Sion — Valley 
of Jehosophat— " Field of Blood "—The Turks 
and the Holy Sepulchre — In the Holy Sepul- 
chre — Chapel in the Holy Sepulchre — Tower 
of David — Tomb of St. Macaire — The House 
of Caiphas — The Csenaculum — Church of St. 
Ann— Gate of St. Stephen— " Grotto of St. 
John in the Mountains " — Mysteries Connected 
with Ain Karim — On the Road to Bethlehem 
— Mount Olivet — In the Convent of the 
"Pater Noster "—Protestant Indifference - 215-229 

Chapter XXI. — Round About the Modern City of 
Jerusalem — Shopmen and Hackmen — The 
Guides — A Model Boy — Beggars — English 
" As She is Spoke "—The Turkish Postoffice— 
The Wailing Place of the Jews — Lamentations 
of the Jews ^ — The Mosque of Omar — The 
" Golden Nails "—The Mosque of El-Aska— 



Contents. ■ 9 

Russian Pilgrims — The Franciscans — The 
Grotto at Bethlehem — Father O'Doherty's Ad- 
venture — " Didn't Come Home Till Morning " 
— Adieu to Jerusalem — That Passport — An- 
other Letter ------ 230-247 

Chapter XXII. — Historic Places on the Mediter- 
ranean and Agean Seas — Haifa — Mount Car- 
mel — Beirut — Alexandretta — Island of 
Rhodes — Smyrna — Again the Passport — A 
View of Smyrna — Colonel Madden, the Amer- 
ican- Consul — Colonel Madden on Catholic 
Soldiers — Consular Salaries — An Incident — 
The Mission School Episode — A Second-Hand 
Bookstore ------ 248-259 

Chapter XXIII. — Constantinople — The Turk and 
"The Universe" — An Invitation — Calling Ma- 
hometans to Prayer — A Glimpse of the Sultan 
— The "Dancing or Turning Dervishes" — The 
"Sweet Waters of Europe" — In the Museum 
— The Seraglio — St. Sophia's — In St. Sophia's 
— In a Dangerous Situation — The Cathedral — 
The Archbishop— Little Sisters of the Poor 260-273 

Chapter XXIV. — Yedi-Koule— A Legend— The 
Greek Cathedral — A Baptism — A Visit to the 
Greek Patriarch — The Greek Patriarch — Ride • 
up the Bosphorus — iVlong the Bosphorus — 
Streets of Constantinople — Just Dogs — Scu- 
tari — Cemeteries — Disheartened Tourists — 
A Fire — Turkish Firemen — A Mahometan Fu- 
neral — Scenes in the Orient — The Armenian 
Outrages — A Stranger's Predicament - - 274-289 

Chapter XXV.— Greece —Pirseus— Athens —The 
Royal Palace — The Stadium — The Acropolis 
— The Areopagus — The Parthenon — The Con- 
sul — Greek Soldiers — Corinth — The Canal — 
Patras — Corfu — The ""Place of the Forty 
Martyrs "—A Priest's Story - - - - 290-302 



10 Contents. 

Chapter XXVI. — In Sunny Italy — Brindisi — 
Catching a Train — Sunday Observance — Fast- 
ing — Street in Naples — Naples — Houses of 
Naples — Church of St. Francis of Paola — 
The Blood of St. Januarius — The Chapel of 
St. Januarius — Church of St. Philip Neri — In 
the Royal Palace — The Arcade — Pompeii — 
Herculaneum — Father O'Doherty Again — The 
" Blue Grotto "—In the Museum - - - 303-318 

Chapter XXVIL— The Eternal City — A Weil- 
Known Writer — Two Eminent Cardinals — A 
Visit to Cardinal Satolli — St. .John Lateran — 
The "Holy Door"— St. Catherine- St. Aloy- 
sius — St. John Berchman — St. Ignatius — 
Father Fidelis — Father Fidelis' Story — Cleve- 
land Students — St. Agnes — Church of St. 
Agnes — Basilica of St. Laurence — Will of 
Pius IX. — Burial of Pius IX.— Church of St. 
Cecilia ------- 319-334 

Chapter XXVIII. — Received by the Holy Father 
— Permission Granted — In the Sistine Chapel 
— The Sistine Chapel — The Holy Father — 
The Papal Blessing — Waiving the Etiquette 
of the Court— A "Native" Astonished — A 
Novel Pontifical Audience — St. Peter's — The 
Obelisk of Caligula — An xVnecdote — The 
World's Cathedral — Dimensions of St. Peter's 
— In the Dome — The Guides — An Incident — 
The Home of the Vicars of Christ — The 
Sacristy — The Vatican Library - - - 335-351 

Chapter XXIX. — Round About Rome— The Aque- 
ducts — The Coliseum — The Catacombs — The 
Roman Forum — An Ancient Ruin — Arch of 
Titus — The Appian Way — The Pantheon of 
Agrippa — The Capitol — The Quirinal Palace 
— Fountain of Trevi — The American College 
—St. Mary Major — St. Paul's, Outside the 



Contents. ■ 11 

Walls — Slope of Janiculum — Church of St. 
Sabina — Headquarters of the Franciscans — 
St. Gregory's — Shrine of St. Leonard — Church 
and Tomb of St. Frances — Church of the 
Scala Santa — The Holy Stairs — Knights of 
Malta — Non-Catholic Cemetery — In the Ceme- 
teries — The Famous Via Nomentana — Adieu 
to Rome ------- 352-371 

Chapter XXX. — Precious Relics and Monuments 
of Assisi — Perugia — Assisi — Shrine of St. 
Clare — An Anglican Nun — At the Shrine of 
St. Francis — Old Church and Convent of St. 
Clare — Church of the Portiuncula — Chapel of 
the Portiuncula — The Thornless Roses — 
Memories of Assisi ----- 372-379 

Chapter XXXI.—Florence— The Uffizi Gallery— 
St. Mark's— The Cathedral— Church of the 
Holy Cross — An Obstreperous Guide — Savon- 
arola — His Life in the Dominican Monastery 
— Tempted by Lorenzo — Ordered to Rome 
— Disobeys the Pope — Convent of St. Mark — . 
No Check System - - - - - .380-391 

Chapter XXXIL — The Wonder-Worker of Padua 
— Padua — Church of St. Anthony — Saint of 
the Whole World — As a Missionary — A Vis- 
ible Miracle — St. Anthony — The Vision of 
St. Anthony — Preaching to the Fishes — " The 
Restorer of Lost Things" — St. Anthony's 
Bread— The Chapel — Should We Believe 
These Miracles ?— A Tax on Salt Water - 392-403 

Chapter XXXIIL— Venice— St. Mark's Cathedral 
—The Pigeons of St. Mark's— The Palace of 
the Doges — Memories of .Venice — The Bridge 
of Sighs — Milan — The Magnificent Cathedral 
— Shrine of St. Charles Borromeo — Lake 
Como — Lugano ------ 404-414 



12 Contents. 

Chapter XXXIV. — Switzerland — St. Gotthard 
Tunnel — Altdorf — Lucerne — Mount Pilatus — 
"The Sanctuary in the Dark Wood"— The 
Miraculous Consecration — The Holy Chapel 
— The Monastery — The Benedictines and 
Church Music — Some Miracles — The European 
Landlord — An Incident — The Tax on Tourists 
—Basle— The Black Forest - . - - 415-427 

Chapter XXXV. — x\long the Storied Rhine — Stras- 
burg — Luther and Worms — Mayence — A 
German Officer's Opinion — Bingen on the 
Rhine— St. Goar — Coblentz — Exiles of Erin 
in Germany — Irish Saints in Germany — The 
Rhine Compared With the Hudson - - 428-437 

Chapter XXXVI. — Cologne — The Cologne Ca- 
thedral, the Masterpiece of Gothic Archi- 
tecture — Relics of the Three Kings — St. 
Geron — Church of St. Ursula — German Rail- 
ways — The Industrial Conditions — Belgium 
— Brussels — The Cathedral — The Wonderful 
Pulpit— Waterloo . . - . - 438-447 

Chapter XXXVH.— Paris — A Boulevard — The 
Clean Streets of Paris — Highwaymen in the 
Parks — The Place de la Concorde — The Arch 
of Triumph — Hotel des Invalides- — Tomb of 
Napoleon — The Paris Opera House — A Desti- 
tute Artist — In the Garden of the Tuileries 
—The Zoological Gardens - - - - 448-458 

Chapter XXXVIII. — Famous Temples of Paris — 
The Cathedral of Notre Dame — The Palais de 
.Justice — The Madeleine — The Pantheon — St. 
Genevieve's — Church of the Sacred Heart — 
Cemetery of Pere-la-Chaise — Versailles — The 
Fountains at Versailles — Dr. Evans and the 
Empress — Sunday in Paris — Immoral Books 
and Prints ------ 459-469 



Contents. 13 

Chapter XXXIX. — England — Dover — Canterbury 
Cathedral — St. Thomas a Becket — Round 
About Canterbury — London — The Queen's 
Reception — Among the Churches — Westmin- 
ster Abbey — In Westminster Abbey — The 
Famous Jesuit Church — The Tower of London 
— The Crown Jewels — St. John's Chapel — 
Bishop Fisher — Sir Thomas More — Peterbor- 
ough — A Royal Visitor — The Celebrated 
Cathedral — Newcastle — Durham and Its Ca- 
thedral — A Protestant Clergyman's Tribute - 470-487 

Chapter ■ XL. — In the Land of the Thistle — 
Edinburgh Castle — Mementoes of John Knox 
— In the Country — Curious Epitaphs — Scot- 
land's Beautiful Scenery — Glasgow — The 
Glasgow Cathedral — St. Kentigen — The Ne- 
cropolis — A Licensed Porter — Anecdotes — 
Busy Scenes iVlong the Clyde — Greenock — 
Across the Irish Channel - - . - 488-500 

Chapter XLI. — The Green Isle of the Saints — 
Historic Derry — An Old Friend — Church of 
St. Columba— St. Columbkille— The Cathedral 
of St. Eugene — The Catholic Institutions — 
The "Grianan of Aileach" — En Route to 
Dublin — An " American " Story - - - 501-509 

Chapter XLII. — Dublin's Sights and Memories— 
In Glasnevin Cemetery — ^^Phoenix Park — Sack- 
ville Street — The O'Connell Monument — May- 
nooth College — The Exercises — The Lord 
Mayor of Dublin— All Hallows' College— The 
Old ParHament House — The Four Courts — 
Ancient Documents in the Record Office — 
Dublin Castle — Christ Church Cathedral — St. 
Patrick's Cathedral — Dinner With the Lord 
Mayor — At the Mansion House — Mr. John C. 
Campbell — Donnybrook — Diplomatic " Jarvy " 
— The Carmelite Fathers - - - - 510-530 



14 Contents. 

Chapter XLIII. — The Irish Lake Country — Clon- 
tarf — Balbriggan — Famous Drogheda — Dun- 
dalk — Beautiful Enniskillen — Devenish Island 
— The Round Tower — Amid the Ruins on 
Devenish Island — Irvingstown — A Noted 
Place of Pilgrimage— Lough Derg — Station 
Island — The Stations — The Regulations — A 
Disciple of Isaak Walton — Lough Erne — The 
Legend of Lough Erne — " The County of the 
Lakes "—Castle Coole - - . _ 531-545 

Chapter XLIV.— The Tomb of Ireland's Great 
Apostles — Clones — An Interview — Monaghan 
— Armagh — An Armagh Waiter — Belfast — A 
Protestant Stronghold — An Orange Parade 
— Mistaken Identity — Downpatrick — The 
Grave of the Saints — The Recently-Erected 
Marking Stone — Bishop Gilmour's Generous 
Offer — The Downpatrick Cathedral — An 
Empty Jail — Antrim — Lough Neagh — Where 
St. Patrick Spent His Boyhood - - - 546-560 

Chapter XLV. — The Giant's Causeway — Port- 
rush — Dunluce Castle — " Charged With Whis- 
key"— The Story of Fin McCool--The Giant's 
Amphitheatre — The Caves — The Shepherd's 
Path — An Orange Interview — Limavaddy — 
Irish Railways ------ 561-570 

Chapter XLVI. — Beautiful Letterkenny — Lurgy- 
breck — The New Cathedral — Round About 
Letterkenny — An American's " Castle " — 
Lord Leitrim's Estate — Lord Leitrim — Some 
Unwritten History — Incidents of the Trial — 
Mr. Gallagher's Barometer — A Horse Fair — 
Some Native Customs — The Convent — The 
" Can't Take Anything Society " — Stranolar - 571-583 

Chapter XLVII. — Counties Donegal and Sligo — 
Donegal — Donegal Castle — Ballyshannon — 



Contents. ■ 15 

Her Majesty's Mail — Sligo — Bishop Clancy — 
Charming Lough Gill — A Native Boatman — 
The Far-Famed Sligo Abbey — Catholic News- 
papers — Late Risers — Ballymore — Carrick- 
on-Shannon - - - - - - 584-594 

Chapter XLVIIL — Journeys in the West of Ire- 
land — Longford — Edgeworths Town — Mullin- 
gar — Athlone — The Historic Bridge of Ath- 
lone — The Defense of the Bridge — Castle- 
reagh — A Bigot's Chapel — Westport — Crough 
Patrick — The Potato Blight — Evidences of 
Distress— A "Teetotaller's" Story— The Pass 
of Klymore--The Killary—Clifden - - 595-606 

Chapter XLIX. — Galway — Where " Lynch Law " 
Originated — Limerick, the "City of the Vio- 
lated Treaty" — The Treaty Stone— The Fa- 
mous Siege — The Shannon at Limerick — 
Around Limerick — A Disappointed Irish- 
American — Mallow — A Serenade - - - 607-614 

Chapter L. — Beautiful Killarney — Ross Castle — 
Muckross Abbey — Friends of Father Hayes — 
Off For the Gap of Dunloe — " Kate Kearney's 
Cottage" — The Gap of Dunloe — The Echoes 
— The Mirrored Lakes — An Ideal Place — 
Kenmare — An Incident — A German Waiter — 
Glengariff — Bantry Bay — Bandon - - 615-627 

Chapter LI. — Cork and Its Many Points of Interest 
— "Father Prout"—" The Shandon Bells"— 
Church of "The Shandon Bells" — Among the 
Churches — Grave of Gerald Griffin — Blarney 
Castle — The Blarney Stone — Three Ameri- 
cans' Predicament — Tipperary — The Rock of 
Cashel — Cashel — Holy Cross Abbey— Kil- 
kenny — Kilkenny Castle — Kildare — The Cell 
of St. Brigid — St. Brigid's Church and Round 
Tower— Dublin Again - - _ . 628-644 



16 Contents. 

Chapter LII. — Bray, the "Brighton of Ireland" — 
Wicklow and Its Varied and Beautiful Scenery 
—The Parish Church— A Day's Outing— The 
"Devil's Glen "— Glendalough or "The Seven 
Churches"—" St. Kevin's Bed"— Vale of 
Avoca— The "Meeting of the Waters"— 
Arklow — Along the River Slaney — New Ross 
— Waterford 645-656 

Chapter LIII. — Farewell to Ireland — Mount Mel- 
leray — The Famous Trappist Monastery — 
Rules of the Monastery — Valley of the Black- 
water — Youghal — Queenstown — The Harbor 
— Old-Fashioned Passage — " They Rule Amer- 
ica" — Farewells — Last View of Ireland - - 657-666 

Chapter LIV. — The Journey Ended — On the 
Atlantic — Life Aboard the " New England " — 
Religous Services — Amusements — Post-Im- 
pressions of Ireland — Disconsolate Girls — 
Boston — Promoting Immigration — With Old 
Friends — " Home, Sweet Home " — The Wel- 
come — Retrospection ----- 667-676 



Introductory. . 17 



INTRODUCTORY. 

Time flies fast ; much faster than we imagine until it 
has gone. We look down the pathway of the years over 
which we have traveled and are surprised to find how close 
together are the periods of childhood, boyhood, manhood and 
more mature years. I realized this when the silver jubilee 
of my priesthood dawned bright and beautiful on July 21, 
1897. 

I will not stop to describe the tender greeting of the 
children of the parish, as with music, song and speech they 
tendered their good wishes. It was an event in their lives 
as well as in my own, and long will I treasure the remem- 
brance of the little ones of the flock. 

The people of the parish, as after events unfolded, had 
quietly prepared a great surprise. I discovered this as with 
the bodyguard I entered the crowded church on the eve of 
my sacerdotal anniversary. The transformation which took 
place after the morning Mass of that day to the scene that 
opened to my view brought to mind the wonders related 
of Aladdin's magic lamp. On the spacious stage, covered 
with plants and flowers, were ■ many of the tried and true 
veterans of the parish, a number of non-Catholic neighbors 
and more than a score of clerical friends. The hand-clapping 
and applause with which I was received was startling, being 
unexpected in the church, even though the Blessed Sacra- 
ment had been removed. The excellent literary and musical 
program was a credit and a crown to the entertainment pro- 
vided by the Executive Committee. 

The presentation of a generous purse and the information 
that the committee had obtained from the Rt. Rev. Bishop 



18 Introductory. 

Horstmann a leave of absence for me to make a European 
trip were veritable surprises. 

On the following day, the day of all days for me, I cele- 
brated Solemn High Mass corum episcopo. There were 
about seventy priests in the sanctuary. I need not dwell 
upon the sermon, the words of cheer by the Rt. Rev. Bishop 
and the generous congratulations of my sacerdotal brethren. 

I could not arrange for my trip abroad until the begin- 
ning of 1898. I then resolved to gratify a wish that I had 
for years scarcely dared to form or encourage — so impos- 
sible did it seem to me — to visit the Holy Land, the places 
made sacred by our Blessed Lord's stay on earth with His 
creatures, the scenes consecrated by His birth. His life, 
His crucifixion and His Resurrection. 

Jerusalem was the objective point. I resolved to reach 
the "Far East" by going west. This resolve started me on 
my trip around the world. The letters on the way written to 
"The Catholic Universe" were so well received by its large 
number of readers that hundreds of written requests to 
have them compiled into book form constrained me to 
undertake the unexpected task. I trust that the readers 
of the book will be as interested and as indulgent as were 
the subscribers of the newspaper. 

"Be to my virtues ever kind. 
Be to my faults a little blind." 

The book contains much more matter than did the let- 
ters and will be found more replete with interesting and 
useful information. 



Departure Westward From Cleveland. 19 



CHAPTER I. 

DEPARTURE WESTWARD FROM CLEVELAND — MEETING OP OLD 

FRIENDS — THOMAS COOK & SONS — CHICAGO TO DENVER — 

DENVER INCIDENTS — COLORADO SPRINGS — " PIKE'S 

peak" — MANITOU — THE GARDEN OF THE 

GODS — DECEPTIVE DISTANCES. 

Sunday, January 16, 1898, was an eventful day for me. 
I spoke my farewell from the pulpit, and the children sang a 
pathetic parting song, two of the verses of which follow: 

"Some day you'll wander back again 

To where the old home stands, 
Where loving hearts wait 5'our return 

From distant foreign lands. 

Your little ones will pray for you 

Where'er your footsteps roam, 
That guardian angels may attend 

Till you are safe at home." 

The words and the sweet and pathetic voices of the chil- 
dren reached all hearts. One strong man said : " I could 
have stood the rest well enough, but when those children 
began that hymn I had to look for my handkerchief as well 
as the others." 

At 11 p. m. I motioned my final adieu from the car plat- 
form to the friends who waved their farewells as the train 
moved from the Union Station in Cleveland out into the 
darkness. I had started on my tour around the world. I 
felt lonesome as I looked at the strangers around about me, 
and realized that I would meet many such and even more 
strange in the strange lands I was about to visit. I felt a 
little apprehension of the dangers that might be revealed in 



20 Booking Agencies. 

the long journey by land and sea, as I ventured alone to 
circle the globe. But I knew that many prayers would be 
said for my safe return, and I trusted in Him who 

"Rides in the whirlwind and directs the storm." 

Early the next morning I was surprised in the Wagner 
by a touch on the shoulder accompanied by the greeting, 
" Good morning." On looking around I found myself face to 
face with my friend, Rev. J. T. O'Connell. I felt that I 
had not yet left home. Father O'Connell had boarded the 
train at Toledo at 2 a. m. for the purpose of seeing me off 
at Chicago. We spent the day together in the " Windy 
City." 

Who has not heard of the around-the-world tourist agents, 
Thomas Cook & Sons? I had not arranged for my transporta- 
tion, so I visited their Chicago office. For a part of my trip I 
was told that my ticket would cost $799.96. The omission 
of the four cents reminded me of a bargain day in a dry goods 
store. But I was not a shopper, so I resisted the temptation 
to biuy. I asked the manager, " How much v/ould the ticket 
cost me were I to postpone the purchase until I reach San 
Francisco?" He replied in a rather severe manner: "It 
would cost you, sir, $200 more than I ask." 

This appeared to me so preposterous that I stopped the 
negotiations. Gaze & Sons could not give me any figures 
until they communicated with the New York office. I told 
the Burlington agent of what Cook & Son had said in regard 
to the extra charge from San Francisco if I waited to buy 
my ticket there. He said that such a claim was ridiculous. 

Dr. Beeman, of "Pepsin Gum" fame, whom I met at the 
Auditorium, said : "Don't go abroad with Cook's tickets. I 
would not go an inch on them. People abroad will look down 
upon you if you travel with them." 

"Why, doctor," I replied, "many good people travel on 
such tickets and find it convenient and money saving." 



Chicago to Denver. 21 

"Well, don't you do it," he replied. Of course the doctor 
has that independence which wealth gives. At any rate, I 
remained quite fancy free as to routes and agencies. 

Father O'Connell saw me off when the train left at 10:30 
p. m. As he bade me good-bye I wished I had his com- 
pany on my circuit of the globe. His act was kind and 
thoughtful and self-sacrificing. I appreciated it and also the 
unexpected presence of the valued friends Vt'ho saw me off 
the night of my departure from Cleveland. 

The sleeping car fare, with stops at Denver, Colorado 
Springs and Salt Lake City, cost from Chicago to San Fran- 
cisco $14.50. I tell this for the guidance of those who may 
wish to race with the sun around the world. 

The ride from Chicago to Denver was uneventful. At 
one station, however, there was quite a crowd giving a joy- 
ful " send off " to a newly married couple who boarded our 
train. I escaped the rice and the old shoes. 

At 7 o'clock Tuesday morning I arrived in Denver. I had 
requested the porter to call me at 5 o'clock. I hoped to see 
grand sights on the mountains, but it was dark. Daylight 
came only at the outskirts of the city. My first impressions 
were not favorable. The little one-story and apparently 
one-room houses Math stove-pipes protruding through the 
roof indicated that poverty was not absent from the Silver 
State. The depreciation of sUver no doubt had a bad effect 
on the business of Colorado. 

Denver, however, loomed up stately and substantial, with 
good business blocks and finely paved streets. 

I boarded a car and asked the conductor : "Do you pass 
a Catholic Church? " 

"Do I pass the Capital Church?" he asked. 

" Well," I said, " that is a new name, and a good name 
for it, but I asked : 'Do you pass a Catholic Church?' " 

" Oh, yes," he replied ; " we pass near St. Leo's." 



22 Denver Incidents. 

I got off there, and was in time to celebrate the regular 
Mass at 8 o'clock. 

The pastor, Rev. Wm. A. O'Ryon, had a funeral to attend 
at 9 o'clock. By the way, the funeral was that of a young 
man from Ohio. He had gone for his health to Denver, 
but had died of a hemorrhage among strangers. I did not 
learn his name, but I thought of his struggle for existence 
and the sad ending of his young life far from home. I saw 
the funeral as it approached the church. There were only 
two carriages. 

After Mass I took breakfast in the pastor's house. With 
me at the table was a fine, well-preserved old gentleman. 
He was introduced to me as the father of the pastor. His 
name I learned was Mr. Michael O'Ryon. He lived at Cashel, 
County Tipperary, Ireland. He came to this country to visit 
his sons. Father William O'Ryon, of Denver, and Father 
O'Ryon, of the Monitor, San Francisco, Cal. He told me 
that Father O'Ryon, of San Francisco, was his youngest child, 
and that Father Maher (I think that is the name) of Notre 
Dame, was a brother-in-law. I asked Mr. O'Ryon if he would 
not like to live in this country. 

" Indeed 1 would not. If I was told that I would have to 
live here for six months I would die of homesickness in a 
month. I will be back in Ireland, please God, before another 
month." 

"Then," I said, "you will be back in Ireland before I get 
there." 

" Well," he said, " when you get to Ireland of course 
you'll go to the ' Abbey of the Holy Cross.' Call then on 
my daughter, Mrs. Thomas Maloney, who lives there, and I 
am not far away." 

I told him of my proposed trip. I found the old gentle- 
man remarkably well acquainted with the geography of my 



Denver Cathedral. 23 

tour, the climates and the habits of the people. I hoped to 
meet him at Cashel. 

I called at the office of the Colorado Catholic to see 
Father Malone, its vigorous editor. I found that he had 
gone to Colorado Springs to meet with the State Board of 
Charity, of which he is a member by the appointment of the 
Governor of the State. 

I called on some Cleveland friends. Some I found at 
home, and others had taken a day off to go "Around the 
Loop," the most picturesque and fascinating of Denver's 
many beautiful suburban trips. 

Some of those upon whom I called had worked out in 
Cleveland. They were good representatives of the faith- 
ful, zealous and generous "working out" girls. The girls 
who work out deserve, as a class, commendation and honor. 
They are obliged on many occasions to "fight the good fight" 
for the teachings of the faith. Their good example often 
brings light to those who have no other beacons to point out 
Catholic doctrine. Their generosity to the Church, according 
to their means, is proverbial. 

The Cathedral is on a very prominent street and in the 
business center. But it is one of the poorest, the gloomiest 
and the smallest Cathedrals that I ever saw or expect to see. 
I told the pastor as much. He said that six years before 
they had been offered $200,000 for the property. The 
Bishop would not sell. Bad times came. Then they could not 
sell. They were paying $7,000 in interest and $2,000 per an- 
num in taxes. The debt was large. The Bishop was absent, 
collecting to tide matters over, and he was often absent for 
months engaged in the same disagreeable duty. But they 
expected to sell for $150,000. We are all fallible in our 
judgments and have not the gift of prophecy. 

Noticing a bicycle on the porch, I asked if any of the 
priests rode. I found that they did. 



24 A Denver School. 

Father Casey asked : "Do you ride?" 

I hesitated, as my mind went back to the previous Sep- 
tember, when I had a fall from the Avheel which nearly ended 
my life, and I said : "Well — yes, I — I can ride." 

"Then," said Father Casey, "we can go out after awhile 
for a spin. I will get you a wheel and we will both go." 

I immediately pleaded an excuse — had not time, etc. 
Really, I was somewhat afraid that the ride might keep me 
too long in Denver — that I might miss the train and get into 
a hospital. 

Subsequently, I visited the Jesuit Fathers at the Church 
of the Sacred Heart. I called at the school for the purpose 
of seeing one of the former teachers in St. Bridget's, 
Sister Mary Eustelle. I went with her to visit the different 
rooms, and found a large number of children in attendance. 

The school building is unique. It is a large brick build- 
ing. The plan and construction are novel, but practical. 
The teachers liked it very much. The school is two stories 
high. Four school rooms and the hall are on the first floor. 
The ceiling of the hall is on a level with the ceilings of the 
four school rooms on the second floor. All the school rooms 
are corner rooms. There are three entrances. The main 
entrance is used only on occasions when the hall is opened 
for public entertainments. The other entrances are on 
either side. All the school rooms open into the hall. Those 
on the first floor are on a level with the hall floor, those on 
the second floor open into the spacious gallery which extends 
around three sides of the hall. This arrangement gives a fine, 
high hall, the entrance to which is on the first floor of the 
building. There are cloak rooms' and also an ofl^ice room. 
This hurried description may convey some new ideas to pas- 
tors who contemplate building a school. 

Colorado Springs was the next place on my program. 
On consulting my watch I found that I had only twenty-five 



Colorado Springs. 25 

minutes to go a mile and a half to the depot and get a trans- 
fer to reach it. After walking a block I missed the car. I then 
tried to visit the Jesuit church, but found it locked. I got 
into the basement chapel, and found it dark and uninviting. 
I got the next car, missed the transfer, but got to the depot 
and stepped into the coach as the conductor shouted : " All 
aboard." 

Colorado Springs is a charming place, seventy-five miles 
from Denver. The streets are wide, the buildings substan- 
tial, the hotels are large and well kept, the population is up 
to the twenty thousand mark and the altitude of the town is 
six thousand feet above the sea, being some eight hundred 
feet higher than Denver. There is much wealth in the place, 
a number of millionaires making this delightful town their 
home. The owners of Cripple Creek mines live here. Cripple 
Creek is about ten miles away as the crow flies, but about 
fifty miles ofl^ as the locomotive goes. 

I took the trolley for the " Glockner Sanitarium," which 
is about two miles out. Mrs. Glockner built the sanitarium 
as a memorial to her husband. After some years of super- 
intendence, she became acquainted with the Sisters of Char- 
ity of Cedar Grove, near Cincinnati, and offered them the 
sanitarium. They accepted, and are now in charge. The 
building is of brick, spacious, well constructed and finely 
finished, and is beautifully situated. 

I arrived at the sanitarium about 7 p. m. Sister Mary 
George, formerly of St. Bridget's, Cleveland, was one of the 
Sisters who care for the inmates — the invalids who come 
here especially for the cure of pulmonary and kindred trou- 
bles. I found two young priests among the patients, Rev. 
Thomas Cummings from the East, and Rev. Father Zagar 
from Marquette. The next morning after Mass we break- 
fasted together and then went to one side of the house to 
view Pike's Peak. There it stood, apparently only one-half 



26 ''Pike's Peak." 

mile away, while in reality it was ten miles off. It is four- 
teen thousand seven hundred and fourteen feet high. It is 
covered with snow, and while it was pleasant below and so 
mild that I rode in an open car, a snow storm was taking 
place on the summit of the Peak. 

Distances are very deceptive in the clear atmosphere of 
the region. I was told of a visitor who thought he would 
take a morning walk to the mountain which appeared so 
near. Not returning long after the promised time, his 
friends went to search for him. They found him standing 
by a draining ditch and preparing to disrobe. They thought 
him crazy, and inquired the reason of his action. 

" Why, I must swim over that river," he said. ' 

"River!" they said, "it is only a ditch, and you can step 
across it." 

" You may think so, for so it appears, but I've learned 
not to go by appearances in these parts." 

Pike's Peak is one of the memories of my boyhood. Well 
do I recollect the excitement caused by the discovery of gold 
on this mountain. The cry, "Pike's Peak or bust" went up 
and swept over the land. Many sold out in our neighbor- 
hood and started for this Eldorado. Many who went with 
exultant hope never reached as near as I then stood to that 
mighty mountain. How little then I ever expected to stand 
at its base and view its vast proportions, much less to as- 
cend to its lofty summit, which some one has called " The 
roof of the world." 

" Over the mountains of the moon, 

With lantern and bravado, 

Rode ever}^ knight, 

With sword bedight, 

To land of Eldorado." —Ballad. 

There is a cogwheel railroad, constructed in 1890, from 
Manitou to the summit of Pike's Peak. Between the rails in 



Manitou — The Garden of the Gods. 27 

the center of the track extends the cogway. Into this the 
cogwheels of the engine press. The incline at places is very 
steep. Sometimes a bridge at a dizzy height spans a yawn- 
ing chasm. But what a view from time to time breaks upon 
the vision! I saw the clouds below the summit. The city 
looks no larger than a single square when viewed from the 
top of Pike's Peak. 

Father Cummings and I, after viewing Pike's Peak and its 
wonders, paid a flying visit to the Garden of the gods and to 
Manitou Springs. This is the great watering place of the 
West. It nestles at the foot of Pike's Peak, and has springs 
of health-giving water. I enjoyed a drink from the famous 
Ute Iron Spring. The scenery is magnificent and pictur- 
esque, and many fine hotels give entertainment to the crowd 
of guests. The Sisters of Mercy have a sanitarium there. A 
Catholic church, nicely situated, attracted my attention. 

" The Garden of the gods" covers two thousand acres or 
more. The rocks of red sandstone tower aloft in almost 
every conceivable shape, some representing castles and 
creatures of land and sea. 

Nor far from Pike's Peak on the eastern slope of the 
Cheyenne Mountain, above the waterfall, is the grave of one 
of America's most remarkable women, Helen Hunt Jackson. 

Who of us- has not read both the prose and poetry 
of'H. H."? 

" For here in nature's arms there lies asleep 
One who loved nature with a passion deep. ' ' 

Time was on the fly, and I had to tear myself away from 
the attractions of Colorado Springs and hasten on my way to 
the Pacific. 



28 



The Royal Gorge, 




ROYAL GORGE, COLORADO. 



Pueblo — Florence. 29 



CHAPTER II. 

PUEBLO — FLORENCE — THE ROYAL GORGE — LEADVILLE — THE 
GREAT DIVIDE — MOUNT OF THE HOLY CROSS — GLEN- 
WOOD SPRINGS — SALT LAKE CITY. 

Pueblo, forty-five miles distant from Colorado Springs, 
was reached at noon on Thursday. Pueblo has a population 
of fifty thousand, and is the second city of Colorado. The 
great steel works and the smelting works there are said to 
be second to no plants of the kind in the world. We got 
a glimpse of the famous Mineral Palace, a permanent struc- 
ture for the exhibiting of the mineral* resources of the State. 
Pueblo is a stirring business center. 

At Florence, thirty-two miles west of Pueblo, I noticed 
many oil well derricks. The brakeman told me that oil was 
discovered there as early as 1888, and that some of the wells 
produce five hundred barrels a day. At Florence connection 
is made with the Cripple Creek Railroad. The Cripple Creek 
mining town is forty miles from Florence. 

As we passed Canon City, the next station to Florence, I 
noticed a commotion among the passengers. I then remem- 
bered that Canon City is the gateway to the grand canon of 
the Arkansas — the " Royal Gorge," — the most magnificent and 
awe-inspiring natural wonder in the Rocky Mountain range, 
if not in all America. 

Having anticipated our approach to the '' Royal Gorge," 
I and an old gentleman were the first on the platform of the 
last car. We had to get out in order to look up and take in 
the entire magnificence of the "Gorge". Our places were 
envied by the pressing crowd behind. For seven miles there 



30 



Thp: Royal CtOrge. 




OUT OF THE CREVISE, ROYAL GORGE. 



The "Royal Gorge" — Leadville. 31 

we stood, awe stricken and silent. No language can describe 
the magnificence of the canon. We could not but wonder 
how the engine was making its way through the cyclopean 
walls that rise in precipitous reaches to such dizzy heights 
that the eye with difficulty measures the stupendous spec- 
tacle. As the train wound in and out following the current 
of the river, the precipices more than half a mile high, 
appeared to be falling and ready to annihilate us. The old 
man by my side, whispering, asked me : " How high are 
those walls?" I answered : "Over two thousand six hundred 
feet." In many places there are fissures which make me fear 
for the future. 

At one point the walls approach each other so closely 
that there is only space for the river. A bridge has been 
constructed lengthwise with the stream and suspended from 
iron trusses. The "Royal Gorge" is the climax of grandeur. 

We passed through the famous town of Leadville. It has 
a population of twenty thousand inhabitants, and is unique 
among the cities of the world, being over ten thousand feet 
above the level of the sea. It is completely surrounded by 
high, snow-covered mountain peaks. As a rich mining dis- 
trict Leadville is known the world over. From 1879 to 1892 
its yield of precious metals amounted to $170,000,000. 

After leaving Leadville we reached the Tennessee Pass, 
the water-shed, or the Great Divide. We there found all the 
streams running westward, and "we knew that we were on the 
Pacific slope. 

A short distance beyond the pass is the famous Mount of 
the Holy Cross. There on the granite bosom of the moun- 
tain rests the emblem of the Christian faith. The cross is 
perfect in its proportions. The snow is deposited in a 
vertical canon and on a transverse ledge. Owing to its 
sheltered position the snow does not melt in those ledges 



32 Glenwood Springs — Salt Lake City. 

when it disappears from the rest of the mountain. The sight 
is awe-inspiring. 

Glenwood Springs, still further on, is the great health 
resort of the Rockies. Every sixty seconds two thousand 
gallons of water at a temperature of 120° Fahrenheit gush 
out of the earth and pour into the big bathing pool which 
covers more than an acre of ground. 

The canon of the Grand River which is entered at the 
station called " The Castle Gate," is much like the "Royal 
Gorge," longer and more varied, but not so terribly mag- 
nificent. 

Friday I reached Salt Lake City. I left the train to stop 
over in that far-famed place. Who has not heard of Brigham 
Young and his debasing doctrine? The Roberts episode 
in Congress has of late called attention to the Mormon doc- 
trine. While the Gentiles have entered " the promised land " 
of the " Prophet," the Mormons are still numerous and pow- 
erful, though less ostentatious in proclaiming their un- 
christian tenets. 

I stopped at the Knutsford hotel. It being Friday I 
asked for fish and eggs. These were not to be had. After 
dinner I w^ent to the office and asked the clerk: "Is this 
not the best hotel in Salt Lake City?" 

"Yes, sir." 

" Well, then, it appears to me that you ought to have 
fish and eggs for your Catholic guests on Friday." 

At supper I got fish and eggs. When I was a boy I 
often read in a country store the sign : " If you don't see 
what you want, ask for it." 

I was reminded of the story told of an Irishman at a 
hotel table on a Friday. It appears that he was not aware that 
fish could be had by giving an order for it. A priest sitting 
next to him had fish. After some deep contemplation, the 
man reached over and lifted half of the fish onto his own 



The Famous Mormon Buildings. 33 

plate, saying to the priest : ''Do you think no one has a 
soul to save but yourself?" 

I wandered around Salt Lake a good deal to get a good 
knowledge of the city. While on a street car a lady left 
her place and came over to me and said in surprise : 

"Why, I declare, isn't this Father McMahon?" 

Before me stood Mrs. W. A. Banks, of St. Agnes' parish, 
Cleveland, and formerly a member of St. Bridget's parish 
and choir. Our pleasure and surprise were mutual. Mrs. 
Banks introduced me to her friend, Mrs. Gunn, a resident 
of Salt Lake, a very affable and intelligent lady. Together 
we called on Bishop Scanlon, and had a pleasant visit. The 
Church there is growing in strength. When the Bishop first 
came to Salt Lake he found only six individual Catholics. There 
was only one small church and a chapel. The priests live with 
the Bishop. They have a fine site for the future Cathedral 
on Brigham street. 

We then went to the famous Mormon buildings, the Lion 
House, the Amelia House, the Temple, the Tabernacle and 
the Assembly Hall. These three buildings stand in " Temple 
Block," a square containing ten acres, surrounded by a wall 
fifteen feet high and five feet thick. The Temple cost 
$3,500,000. It is two hundred feet long, one hundred feet 
wide and one hundred feet high, with four towers,- one at 
each corner, two hundred and twenty feet high. The walls 
are ten feet thick, gradually diminishing to six feet thick. 
It is built of snow white granite from Cottonwood Canon, 
about fifteen miles away. The stone was all cut to a pat- 
tern at the quarries and numbered so as to fit each into its 
place. 

An old Mormon in a lodge at the entrance gave us this 
information. He recited, school-boy like, a piece on Mormon 
principles, and misquoted and misinterpreted the Bible while 
doing so. He said that we could not enter the Temple. No 



34 



The Mormon Tabernacle. 



one but a baptized and a practical Mormon could do so after 
the dedication. A Catholic lady who had been in the Temple 
just before the dedication said it reminded her of a large 
hotel. In the basement is the large baptismal font, sup- 
ported by twelve large carved figures of oxen. 









THE MORMON BUILDINGS. 



We then went to the Tabernacle, wh^re we were ad- 
mitted without delay. It is built wholly of iron, glass and 
stone, with the exception of the interior finish. It is two 
hundred and fifty by one hundred and fifty feet, and one 
hundred feet high to the center of the roof. It is spanned 
by a single mighty arch unsupported by a pillar. The walls 
are twelve feet thick. There are twenty huge double doors 
for entrance and exit. It has an immense gallery and seats 
thirteen thousand people. So perfect are its acoustic prop- 
erties that a whisper or the dropping of a pin can be heard 



The Great Salt Lake. 35 

in all parts of the auditorium. This was demonstrated to 
our satisfaction while we stood in the gallery, the furthest 
possible point away from the gentleman who whispered, 
rubbed his hands, dropped the pin, etc. I also whispered 
back. People should not whisper secrets or unwelcome crit- 
icisms in that building. 

The Tabernacle organ cost, we were told, $100,000. The 
price, I think, was exaggerated. It is fifty-eight feet high, 
has fifty-seven stops, and two thousand six hundred and 
forty-eight pipes. The choir numbers from two hundred to 
five hundred. 

Assembly Hall, in the same enclosure, is built of white 
granite, is of Gothic architecture, and seats two thousand, 
five hundred. 

After leaving the Tabernacle we went to visit Holy Cross 
Academy. There we had the pleasure of meeting Sister 
Mary Blanche, who was well known to many in Cleveland as 
Miss King. She formerly taught school at the Immaculate 
Conception Church in Cleveland, and hailed from Ravenna. 
She was glad to see us, and inquired with interest of Mgr. 
Thorpe, Rev. G. P. Jennings and Rev. J. T. 'O'Connell. 

The academy is a fine building and the school was flour- 
ishing. An aunt of Father Zahm was the superioress. 

The Great Salt Lake is one hundred miles in length and 
twenty-five wide on an average. It has many fresh water 
inlets and has no known outlet. Its average depth is twenty 
feet and it is four thousand two hundred and fifty feet above 
the sea. Its water is six times as salt as the ocean. The 
human body can not sink in it, but will stick up out of it like 
a fishing cork. Here in its season persons can enjoy the 
finest sea bathing more than one thousand miles from the 
ocean. 

The Mormons, under the leadership of Brigham Young, 
went there in 1846 from Nauvoo, Illinois. They gave Scrip- 



36 "Mother Shipton's Prophecy." 

tural names — Holy Land names — to the rivers, the lakes and 
the valleys. 

"Mother Shipton's prophecy," which became familiar 
years ago, is said to fit this place : 

"When the desert shall grow green, 
When ships shall there be seen ; 
When fresh water streams shall pour 
Into Salt Sea, evermore, 
And the sea shall salter grow, 
Then the sons of men shall know 
That the time is drawing near 
When the world shall disappear." 



Sacramento. 37 



CHAPTER III. 

SACRAMENTO — THE STATE CAPITOL — A KNOCK-DOWN — RUSH 
FOR THE KLONDHvE — SAN FRANCISCO — THE GOLDEN 
JUBILEE — A DRIVE WITH FATHER YORKE — 
FATHER WYMAN, C. S. P. — FRANCIS- 
CAN FATHERS — ABOARD SHIP. 

After leaving Salt Lake City the next stopping place was 
Ogden. There I had to wait for a Pacific train from 10 p. m. 
to 2:30 a.m. That was a long and dreary wait, and the 
night was very cold. A man near me said that he wished he 
knew how to pass the time quickly. I told him that I once 
heard of a good way to have the whole winter pass quickly. 

" How?" he asked. 

" On the 1st of December give your note for $500, to be 
paid in four months." 

Sunday morning I found that the train was over two 
hours behind time. That would bring me into San Francisco 
too late to celebrate or to hear Mass. So at 7 o'clock I left 
the train at Sacramento. I went to the Cathedral where I 
was kindly received and celebrated Mass at 8 o'clock. The 
Cathedral is a magnificent church, built of stone and brick. 
Its architecture is Roman. Its dimensions are two hundred 
and eight by one hundred and fourteen feet and sixty high. 
It contains four hundred pews and has two galleries across 
the church. The higher gallery contains the organ. I do 
not remember to have seen a finer sanctuary. It appeared 
to me to be more spacious than that of St. Patrick's Cathe- 
dral in New York City. 

I took breakfast with the Bishop, Rt. Rev. Thomas Grace. 
I found him very hospitable. Father Walsh was the pastor, 



38 The State Capitol. 

Father Gleeson and Father Philip Brady were the assistants. 
The Bishop and the priests, I think, claimed " All Hallows" as 
their Alma Mater. 

In company with Father Brady I visited the State Capitol 
which is only two blocks from the Cathedral. It is a mag- 
nificent building of stone and stands in the middle of a plot 
embracing from twelve to fifteen acres. The grounds are 
beautifully kept. Palm trees and orange trees abound. The 
orange trees in the Bishop's garden were laden with fruit. 

On the first floor under the dome of the State House, 
there is a group most exquisitely carved in marble. The 
persons represented are Queen Isabella, Columbus with a 
globe in his hand demonstrating the rotundity of the earth, 
and a kneeling page. Laughlin Meade, the sculptor, spent 
sixteen years on the group. It was sold at public auction 
for $75,000. D. 0. Mills presented it to the State of Cali- 
fornia. The block of marble originally weighed five tons. 
I got this information concerning the group from one of the 
obliging officials. 

Sacramento has a population of about forty thousand. 

On leaving Sacramento for San Francisco I found the 
train crowded. Reduced rates had been given on account of 
the Golden Jubilee celebration of the finding of gold in Cali- 
fornia. 

An incident occurred enroute which created some excite- 
ment. At Davis Junction a large crowd boarded the train. 
A great many had to stand. I sat next to the window read- 
ing my breviary. Soon I heard angry words between the 
man who sat next to me and a man in the aisle. My neigh- 
bor complained about tobacco juice that the other was not 
careful enough in distributing. The ofl^ending man in the 
aisle said to the man who sat with me : 

"Don't you use tobacco?" 

"No." 



A Knock-Down. 39 

" You are a pretty one, you are, to call yourself a Cali- 
fornian and not use tobacco." 

Other words followed and some vile language was used by 
the man in the aisle. My ^companion threatened to knock 
him down if he did not stop such talk. Persisting in it, my 
seat companion kept his word, and got up and hit the offen- 
der. Under the blow the man staggered down the aisle 
about ten feet and fell. He fell against a woman who was 
standing. A man in front of us turned in anger and de- 
manded of my pugnacious neighbor : 

" Why did you knock him against that lady? " 

"Well," he replied, "I did not know that he would go so 
far before he fell." 

Others joined, pro and con, in the war of words, and for 
a time it looked as though revolvers would be drawn. But 
finally the brakemen forced the vile-tongued fellow into the 
next car. Then my companion, to make some amends to the 
lady in the aisle, surrendered his seat to her. All was peace 
as I began the Magnificat. 

We arrived in Oakland about 7 p. m. and immediately 
boarded the large steam ferry-boat and crossed over the bay 
to San Francisco. Standing on deck in the gathering dark- 
ness, I fell into conversation with a large man who happened 
to be a vessel man. We drifted into a talk about the Klon- 
dike and the means of getting there. He said that all kinds 
of sea-worthy boats and some that were not sea-worthy were 
in great demand. He said he had done well enough in that 
line as he had sold a boat for $160,000, that before the gold 
excitement he could not have disposed of for $80,000. " We 
are 'the people' here now," he said. "There is going to be 
lots of trade, too, as we expect one hundred thousand emi- 
grants from Australia to stop here on their way to the 
Klondike." 

,0n reaching San Francisco I took a room at the far- 



40 San Francisco— The Strange Friend. 

famed Palace Hotel, one of the largest and finest hotels in 
the world. 

After supper I sought to make my way to the Cathedral. 
While on the car a gentleman heard me inquiring for the 
Archbishop's house. He said that I should have taken another 
line, but ad^ased me to remain on the car and get a transfer 
to save time. Finding that I was a stranger he asked me 
whence I came. On my answering he said, " Oh, I've been 
in Cleveland." I then told him that I intended to go to Hon- 
olulu, and thence to Japan and Hong-Kong. 

"By the steamer ' Australia'? " he asked: 

" No, but by the steamer * Peru '." 

" What is your name, please?" he inquired. 

On my telling him he said : "I have received a telegram 
directing me to book you for a state-room. I am the agent 
of the Pacific Mail." 

"From whom," I asked, " did you receive the telegram?" 

" I do not remember the name," he answered, " but the 
authority was sufficient for me to know that the bill would 
be paid all right. Call Tuesday, as to-morrow the office will 
be closed, because it is a legal holiday. Rest easy as far as 
the state-room is concerned." 

I found afterwards that no one at the office of the Pacific 
Mail Line of steamers had heard of me or knew of any 
telegram regarding the state-room. If my street car ac- 
quaintance was a confidence man, he got nothing for his 
trouble. 

I bore a letter of introduction from Father MacHale to 
Father Yorke, the able editor of " The Monitor." He called 
at the hotel the next morning, but I had gone to the Cathe- 
dral to get a good view of the Golden Jubilee procession. 
The streets were filled with people and all the avenues and 
byways were filled with soldiers and civil societies, with in- 
numerable floats finely designed to represent something con- 



The Golden Jubilee — Drive With Father Yorke. 41 

nected with the event commemorated — the discovery of gold 
in California. 

The fine Cathedral stands on the side of a hill. It is 
reached by about forty stone steps, leading to a spacious 
landing. The whole space was black with people, as that 
point was especially advantageous for a good view of the 
immense procession. With a number of priests I climbed to 
the roof of the Cathedral tower. The last part of the climb 
was not easy, as we had to ascend a perpendicular ladder 
before getting to the trap door leading out onto the roof. 
Once there, the view of sea and land and city was grand. 
But I felt as though I needed to get a strong grip of some- 
thing firm to prevent myself being lifted up and carried 
away, I knew not whither. The wind whipped the hat from 
the head of one of the priests. The last I saw of it, it was 
sailing towards the " Golden Gate." 

Father Yorke treated me to a fine carriage ride to the 
Cliff House, the parks, the fort and reservation, to the 
churches, etc. The most interesting of all was the Mission 
of Dolores. This old church, built in 1776, is still preserved 
beside one of modern brick structure. I was much inter- 
ested in this relic of a bygone century. Think of it existing 
here on the Pacific coast when independence was first pro- 
claimed from the old bell tower in Philadelphia. The Indians 
constructed it under the direction of the missionaries. These 
venerable monuments indicate something of the Church's 
claims in this land of ours. 

W^e called at the Paulist Church. I was delighted to 
meet the genial Father Wyman, who was in charge. Father 
Elliott and Father Wyman gave a mission in St. Bridget's 
in 1878. 

About 9 p. m. Father Wyman and I took a walk through 
Chinatown, and visited some of the stores and restaurants. 
I did not think that Hong-Kong could be more Chinese than 



42 Franciscan Fathers — The Jesuit Church. 

that part of " Frisco," and that I afterwards demonstrated. 
In memory of Auld Lang Syne I accepted Father Wyman's 
kind invitation to spend my last night before departing with 
him. 

I found in San Francisco two priests well known in 
Cleveland. Father Maximillian, 0. S. F., was in charge of 
the community there, as he had been in Cleveland. I also 
had the pleasure of meeting Father Augustine McGlory, 
0. S. F. Both of these Franciscan Fathers were much be- 
loved in Cleveland, where they had labored long and fruit- 
fully. They were greatly surprised to see me. 

On the last morning of my stay in San Francisco, I cele- 
brated Mass for a safe voyage in St. Mary's, the old Cathe- 
dral, now in charge of the Paulist Fathers. 

San Francisco is a beautiful city. It is very hilly, but is 
well built and metropolitan in its air and business. It covers 
an area of forty-two miles and has a population of three 
hundred and thirty-five thousand. 

Having seen the fine Cathedral, which is Roman in style 
and capable of seating two thousand people, I visited the 
Jesuit Church, which is much spoken of by visitors to San 
Francisco. It is also of the Roman style and very large. It 
is richly ornamented and decorated. Mrs. Welsh, of San 
Francisco, contributed $50,000 to pay for the ornamentation, 
and also donated $50,000 for the grand organ. Whether 
people have much or little they should gladly contribute to 
the " House of God." They ought to emulate the Psalmist 
who sang: 

" I have loved, O Lord, the beauty of Thy house and the place 
where Thj- glory dwelleth."' 

Since He loved the temple of old which contained only 
the shadow, how much we ought to love " The House of 
God," which contains the Real Presence. Mrs. Welsh is to 
be honored for her noble generosity. The treasures that are 



Aboard Ship. 43 

placed in God's keeping do not rust and cannot be stolen, 
but will be returned a hundred fold. 

While the cold blasts of winter made people shiver in 
other parts, in San Francisco we were driving through parks 
and gardens, amid orange trees laden with fruit, and fra- 
grant with blooming marguerites, violets, roses, etc. 

The day and hour of my departure finally came. Father 
Wyman kindly saw me off. We boarded the steamer and 
found that I had secured a choice state-room, though I had 
applied only at the last hour. We then met a Mr, Lynch, 
who looks after the Chinese for the United States Govern- 
ment and enforces the legal regulations. He introduced me 
to the surgeon of the ship, Arthur A. O'Neill, M. D., who 
introduced me to the first officer. Being both Catholics, I 
felt as much at home as circumstances would permit. 

Looking west, I looked beyond it and said, with Thomas 
H, Benton, United States Senator, who, in a speech delivered 
in St, Louis in 1849, declared, as he pointed towards the 
Pacific : " The East lies over there." 

I may here quote from the "Ballad of the Crusader:" 

" I met a maid in serge arrayed, 

She bore a cross and psalter, 

Her eyes were bright as in the light 

Upon the sacred altar. 

' Fair maid,' cried I, ' pray tell me wh}- 

And answer me in pity.' 

' Why do you go ? ' she answered low. 

' I seek the Holy City. ' ' " 

All was hurry and bustle on the ship. Friends and relat- 
ives were bidding good-bye. The mail-wagons came thun- 
dering along the dock at the last moment. When the mail 
was loaded the gang-planks were drawn, the lines were cast 
off and the ship swung clear of the dock. Just then I 
noticed a lady on the dock gesticulating rapidly to a couple 
aboard and pointing to me. They had understood her words. 



44 Farewells. 

which I did not catch. They approached and said : " You are 
a priest." The couple proved to be Mr. and Mrs. John W. 
Regan, of Boston. Mr. Regan had been one of the fire chiefs 
of Boston for over forty-three years. He had gone on the 
retired list shortly before. Many of the merchants of Bos- 
ton, grateful for his long, faithful and efficient service, sent 
him on this trip — the trip around the world. 

Handkerchiefs were waving from dock and ship. Some 
were crying and some were cheering. Down near the end 
of the dock five children, the eldest not ten years, with 
joined hands, danced and sang a farewell song, " Good Luck, 
Good Cheer," to father and mother who were bound for Hon- 
olulu. They were the children of Mr. and Mrs. C. S. Wheeler. 
Mr. Wheeler was a prominent attorney of San Francisco. 
The incident was filial and touching. 

Amid the good-byes and farewells a stentorian voice was 
raised from the edge of the dock. I looked in its direction 
and there beheld a man of about sixty years of age with 
grey hair and whiskers. He was proclaiming the terrors of 
the final judgment and quoting from the Scripture, "to be 
always prepared." He was, at least, giving us good advice 
as we were entering on the unknown dangers of the deep — 

" Children are we, 

Of the boundless sea, 

Swelling in anger or sparkling in glee ; 

We follow and race, 

In shifting chase, 

Over the boundless ocean space ! 

Who hath beheld when the race begvm ? 

Who shall behold it run ? " 

While good-byes were being spoken and the handker- 
chiefs were waving I felt lonesome as none were waving for 
me. I turned and looked down the bay to hide a tear as I 
thought of home and friends and the long journey before 
me. I turned again to the dock, and then I saw good Father 



Out on the Pacific. 45 

Wyman, waving his hat to me. I returned his salute with 
gladness, knowing that I would find a welcome from my 
sacerdotal brothers the world over. 

As the steamer plowed the waters, we went to the prow 
to get a good view of the city and the islands while going 
through the " Golden Gate." We were soon out on the 
Pacific, the largest by far of all the oceans. 

I had often read of the sea, its mystery, its life and its 
moods. Then came to mind the words of the poet, who evi- 
dently had had experience: 

" Praise the sea, but keep on land." 

However, I was out on the waves of the ocean — 
"Blue, darkly, deeply, beautifully blue." 

While I was not entirely free from apprehension, I felt 
quite at ease, and experienced a certain exhilaration. The 
ship was to be my home for three weeks. After arranging 
things in my stateroom, which was above deck, I went out to 
note my surroundings. 



46 The Crew — The Passengers. 



CHAPTER IV. 

the crew — THE PASSENGERS — THE FIRE ALARM — A STORM 
— SEA SICKNESS — LAND — A WHALE — HONOLULU. 

The ship's crew consisted of one hundred and seven per- 
sons. With the exception of the officers and a half dozen 
Japanese, the rest were " heathen " Chinese. To all appear- 
ances they were " a scrubby lot." They presented no idea of 
the sturdy, rollicking "jack-tar." However, they were at- 
tentive, quiet and obedient. 

There were twenty cabin passengers. About half of them 
were bound for Honolulu; most of the others for Yokohama, 
Japan. There were fifty Chinese in the steerage. About 
one hundred and fifty more were expected to take passage at 
Honolulu. The Chinese have a great love for the Celestial 
Empire. No matter where they go, they want to die in 
China. Should they die in foreign lands, they leave it as a 
religious duty incumbent on relatives and friends that their 
bones shall be buried in China. The Chinese on our ship, 
after accumulating what will be for them a fortune, were 
going to China to spend the rest of their days. 

At supper the first night out I heard a young man telling 
the captain: "I've some mail for Rev. William McMahon. 
It was sent to my room, and sent again after I had returned 
it. It is not for me." 

I said: "It is for me." 

The young man's name was McMahon. The mail proved 
to be some newspapers from home sent by my sister, Mar- 
garet, and a letter from my friend Rev. G. P. Jennings. I 
was a little surprised and much pleased to get these — 
especially " aboard ship." 



Fire Alarm — A Storm. 47 

One afternoon, when many miles out at sea, I was startled 
by a fire alarm. I saw the Chinese and officers coming on 
the run from every quarter. The fire hose was quickly 
uncoiled and attached. The officers carried their revolvers 
in belts about their waists. I was naturally alarmed myself, 
but remained quiet. I had read of burning ships at sea, and 
always considered such events to be most dreadful and ap- 
palling. 

Mrs. Regan, noticing my look of concern, said: " Father, 
this is only a fire drill. Did no one tell you ? " No one had 
told me. Mrs. Regan said that she had been warned that it 
was to take place, else she would have been frightened 
almost to death. 

The fire drill was frequently given during the voyage. 
As on such occasions the officers were always armed, I asked 
the reason. I was told that it was to preserve order, that 
in case of real danger were any to get into the lifeboats, ex- 
cept as directed, they would be shot. 

Noticing a Winchester rifle near the surgeon's desk, in 
whose office I was writing, I asked if that was the property 
of the company, or his own. He said that it belonged to the 
company, that each officer had one in addition to the revol- 
vers, that they were for use against the Chinese in case 
there should be an uprising in the steerage for the purpose 
of capturing the ship and murdering the officers and passen- 
gers. It appears that such attempts have been made. " In 
the time of peace, prepare for war." I had not realized that 
such a possible danger was so near. '' For ways that are 
dark," the heathen Chinese is not so innocent as he appears. 

Thursday night the ship began to roll and continued the 
motion all night and the following day. I heard my baggage 
rolling about the floor. I was nearly pitched from the bunk. 
All night I was busy " holding on." The next morning I 
found that " a great sea was rolling." 



48 Seasickness — Loss of " Colima." 

The vessel careened to about forty-five degrees — one 
minute to one side and then to the other. Bracing myself I 
stood at the open door of the smoking room and looked out 
upon the angry ocean. When the ship came up I saw only 
the sky, when it sank I saw water only. So it was all day. 

" See the mountains kiss high heaven, 
And the waves clasp one another." 

One man, suffering from seasickness, asked, when he got 
time : '' Who in the d — 1 called this the Pacific ocean?" 

Another said : " This corkscrew sea is giving us a bad 
twist." 

I foimd that I was a " good sailor," as no matter how 
heavy the storm or how long continued, I remained, on every 
ocean and sea the world around, free from seasickness. 

Toward evening the sea became somewhat calmer. Sat- 
urday, Sunday and Monday it was very enjoyable. No over- 
coats were needed as we sat upon the deck and viewed the 
"Gooneys," a species of sea gull, skimming the water one 
thousand miles from shore. 

In 1896 the steamer "Colima," of this line, overturned in 
mid-ocean and nearly all on board were lost. A peculiar 
circumstance is connected with the loss of the "Colima." 
M. T. Rossiter had been the chief engineer of the " Colima" 
for ten years. By the way, he was a brother of Father Al- 
phonsus, C. P., who gave a mission in St. Bridget's, Cleveland, 
about 1891. Mr. Rossiter had not during that ten years 
missed a trip. Just before the fatal voyage he was ordered 
to take charge of the " Peru," the ship which bore us. Thus 
he escaped. When weeks afterwards the news came that 
all the engineers and nearly all the passengers and crew had 
been lost, Mr. Rossiter was affected to tears, and grateful 
that he had been preserved. 

"Sea sickness?" I heard one lady say that that subject 
was tabooed. Several could not. The first night out I had 



Sunday at Sea. 49 

a touch of a headache, but it passed away before bedtime. 
The rest were not so fortunate. Many kept their rooms, 
and had no interest in mundane affairs. There was plenty of 
room at the dining-room table, 

I said to one of the victims that I had heard an Irishman 
describe his own case of seasickness. '' How did he describe 
it? Please tell me." " He said, ' One minute I was afraid 
Fd die — the next minute I was afraid I wouldn't.'" " Well," 
said the victim, " that is about correct," 

There is one peculiarity in storms by sea that is found in 
all oceans and is still unexplained. The surgeon said to me 
as we were talking during the storm and I grabbed the rail- 
ing as the boat sank: '' After the third big wave, there will 
be a cessation for awhile. They come by threes." I then 
remembered that I had read somewhere that three big waves 
in a storm are followed by nine small ones. No one can 
explain this trinity of billows. 

The hills and valleys of the ocean during the storm were 
novel and fascinating. Still, I think I prefer Old Neptune 
when he does not frown. 

Sunday my thoughts wandered home. It appeared out 
of place that there we heard no summons to the divine ser- 
vice. All was quiet and everyday like. I calculated that 
the difference in time between home and my bearings then 
on the ocean was about six hours. After performing my 
own devotions, I sat upon deck and looked out upon the 
moving, boundless sea. No wonder it has so often been 
compared to life and to eternity — to life in its restless 
changes, to eternity in its vastness. 

The majestic Byron says of the ocean: 
"T)ark, heaving, boundless, endless and sublime — 

The image of Eternity — the throne 
Of the Invisible ; even from out thy shrine 

The monsters of the deep are made ; each zone 

Obe3^s thee ; thou goest forth, dread, fathomless, alone." 



50 Land— A Whale — Honolulu. 

After more than six days at sea, we heard after 10 p. m., 
on Tuesday, the welcome cry of " Land! land ahead!" Those 
who had not retired crowded aft. In the distance we saw 
the dark outlines of a mountain. This proved to be " Dia- 
mond Head," about six miles out from the harbor of Honolulu. 
After we turned the point, we saw the city lights glimmering 
in the distance. The signal rocket was fired from the prow. 
This was followed by the varied colored fire-signals, to indi- 
cate that we were waiting for a pilot. After considerable 
time, we got a response that the pilot was coming. Soon a 
row boat with seven men approached. On board were the 
pilot, the health officer and the postoffice official. The 
Chinese were ranged along the gangway for inspection. The 
ship's surgeon gave a clean bill of health for the rest of us, 
and we were passed. 

While waiting for the pilot, I was talking to the first 
officer. 

Soon he cried: "There is a whale. Didn't you hear him 
blow? Just look that way, because he will soon blow again." 

I replied : " He is like all blowers." 

Sure enough, he "blowed" again. But as the whale was 
about six hundred feet away and the moon was somewhat 
clouded, I got only a glimpse of his outlines. But I was de- 
lighted to see even this much of the " monster of the deep." 
We were told that we would probably see some whales be- 
fore we got to Yokohama. 

The channel is narrow, and we proceeded slowly. It was 
midnight by the time the "Peru" was moored at her dock. 
Viewed from the deck, it appeared that the high hills 
pressed close to the shore, not leaving much space for the 
city. The morning demonstrated once again that appear- 
ances are deceptive. 



Honolulu. 51 



CHAPTER V. 

COLLEGE OF ST. LOUIS — HONOLULU A CONSER.VATORY — THE 
MILLIONAIRE KIDNAPPED — THE PALI — A LETTER IN THE 
JUNGLE — ENGLISH LANGUAGE — INHABITANTS — HONO- 
LULU FIRE DEPARTMENT — ISLAND OF MOLOKAI. 

Early Wednesday morning, on the Feast of the Purifica- 
tion, a little party of us were under the direction of Dr. 
O'Neill, making our way to the church in Honolulu. We 
were much gratified to find a spacious church, located in the 
heart of the city, with ample grounds and a commodious 
residence for the clergy. 

We were kindly received. The main altar being in use, I 
celebrated Mass on the altar of St. Joseph. After Mass, the 
doctor and myself took breakfast with the Fathers, while 
Mr. and Mrs. Regan went to the next corner to view a drill 
of the fire engine company. The old fire chief preferred the 
exhibition to breakfast. 

After Mass the kodak was put into use to get some 
views of the church. Seated on the spacious porch I had 
a very interesting talk with the Provincial, Very Rev. Father 
Leanor. This venerable patriarch wore a large grey beard. 
He was about seventy-seven years of age. He came to the 
islands in 1854, and hence had been there for forty-four 
years. 

"Father Leanor," I said, "you must have ivitnessed a 
great many changes in these islands." 

" Indeed I have," said he, " there were then on the islands 
only grass and mud huts. Now you see our church, which is 
one hundred and fifty by fifty feet. It is crowded at each of 
the four regular Masses on Sundays.'" 



52 



Catholicity in Honolulu. 



To my questions he said that there were about ten thous- 
and Catholics in Honolulu, about forty churches and chapels 
on the islands and twenty-three priests. To another ques- 
tion he said that their 
order was the " Order 
of the Sacred Hearts of 
Jesus and Mary.'" 

The Religious whom I 
met were Belgians and 
French. I think all the 
priests are of those na- 
tionalities. How very 
much the Church ow^es 
to these brave, zealous 
and self-sacrificing mis- 
sionaries of the world. 
The first church, a 
small structure, was 
built there in 1827. It 
was being shingled for 
the second time when 
Father Leanor came to 
the islands, A fine 
statue of " Our Lady of 
Peace " marks the spot 
where it stood. I got a 
and also of the present 




VERY REV. FATHER LEANOR. 



good photograph of Father Leanor 
church. 

During Mass the Rosary was said in English by the 
school children. In the good attendance many natives were 
noticed. The Sisters in charge of the girls wear a neat 
white habit. It is very tasty, and for a climate as hot as 
that it is also very sensible. Many of the women we met on 



St. Joseph's Church. 53 

the street were in white " Mother Hubbards," and^some bare- 
footed. 

While in the very large and valuable library, which cov- 
ered three sides of the spacious room, I asked the pastor : 

" What do you think of annexation ? " 

" Well, the Protestant Missionary Societies want it, so do 
the planters," he answered. 




ST. JOSEPH'S CHURCH, HONOLULU. 

The Fathers regretted, and so did I, that the Bishop was 
not at home. He had left the day before for one of the 
islands and would be absent all week. One of the Fathers 
asked : 

'' Is not your Bishop a German?" 



54 The College of St. Louis. 

" No, Father," I said, " he is an American, he was born 
in Philadelphia." 

I called at the College of St. Louis. It is in charge of 
the Brothers of Mary, the same order that has its mother- 
home in Dayton, Ohio. Thirty Brothers were in charge. 
Brother Betron was the director. Counting boarders and day- 
scholars, the attendance was over five hundred. The college 
is of brick. It stands in the center of a grove of palms. 
The Brothers' residence is near by. The whole inclosure em- 
braces three acres very nicely situated. A gentleman of the 
town told me that it is considered the best school in Honolulu, 
though there are several non-Catholic high schools and acad- 
emies. This was high praise from a non-Catholic. 

The school attendance and the ten thousand Catholic com- 
municants of Honolulu speak well for a city whose total pop- 
ulation of all classes is about twenty-four thousand. There 
are many Chinese and Japanese. 

I told one of the Fathers that I wanted to hire an open 
carriage to view the city and the sights about it, including 
the famous Pali, six miles away. 

" Well," said he, "be careful to bargain for it beforehand 
and know the cost, otherwise- you will probably be charged 
from $25 to $30." 

" Honolulu ! " said I, " what a price ! I don't want to buy 
the rig." 

When I got the turnout and driver, for Mr. and Mrs. 
Regan and myself for the day, for $12, I was congratulated 
on the bargain the Father had made for me. 

We came, we saw and we were conquered. We bow to 
Honolulu. It is a conservatory for miles and miles. It is 
full of avenues of royal palms, cocoanut trees, banyan trees, 
fig and orange trees, etc., etc. It abounds in the plants, 
the fruits and the flowers of the tropics upon which it bor- 
ders. We noticed flourishing flelds of the banana and pine- 



Honolulu a Conservatory. 55 

apple. The climate is delightful. The thermometer regis- 
tered 72°. The mean average is 75°. It is rarely as high 
as 90° and never as low as 50°. There is no winter, there 
is no torrid summer. The streets are wide, smooth, hard 
and clean, and extend for miles along the glorious sea front 
and back toward the mountains. No wonder that Hawaii 
has been styled the " Paradise of the Pacific," and the "Eden 
of the West." 

In beginning our drive we ascended "Punch Bowl" 
Mountain. The road, built at government expense, gives a 
gradual ascent. From the summit a grand view is presented 
of the bay, the ocean, the town and the plantations. I said 
to the driver on our returning that were there snow at Hon- 
olulu the boys would have glorious coasting. He said that 
they coasted on the other side of the mountain; that the 
grass is smooth and tough, making a good substitute for 
snow for coasting purposes. 

We then drove through some of the avenues and out the 
ocean front up to the signal station on " Diamond Head." 
We passed the palatial homes of a number of millionaires. 
Glaus Spreckels, " the sugar king," had a magnificent home. 
But he does not now abide in Honolulu. It appears that he 
took an active part in subverting the old government. He 
found on the gate-posts one morning the " skull and cross 
bones." This, it is said, accounts for his absence and the 
approaching sale of the place. We saw in San Francisco his 
palatial stone residence. With all his money he had family 
strife. Peace and contentment are better than mere stocks 
and lands. His son was a passenger with us from San 
Francisco. 

Another millionaire's place we passed is the home of 
James Campbell. It will be remembered that he was ab- 
ducted about 1895. His kidnappers tried to force him to 
sign a $20,000 check, but he refused. He was steadfast 



56 The Pali. 

under torture. Somehow or other the abductors got fright- 
ened and ran away, but left him bound. He was discovered 
in that condition. The kidnappers were captured and im- 
prisoned, serving life-sentences. 

We passed the residence of President Dole. It is not 
imposing. 

We drove into the grounds of Princess Kapaolani. We 
passed through an avenue of royal palms. The branches 
meet overhead, presenting a covered passage-way. Here 
were a number of the banyan trees, an abundance of cocoa- 
nut and other trees, plants, flow^ers and fruits in profusion. 
A flock of peacocks strutted about in all their royal glory. 
We did not stop to see the Princess. 

We also passed the home of the ex-Queen. She was then 
in Washington, seeking to get back her throne. 

We drove to the Royal Palace and the Government 
House. The soldiers were on guard duty and the gatling 
guns were in position, as the tenure of the government ap- 
peared to be uncertain. The grounds, which are beautifully 
kept, include about eight acres. 

At 2 p. m. we started for the Pali, six miles off. When 
about two miles on our way it began to rain, and con- 
tinued with tropical profusion most of the way. Mrs. Regan 
favored turning back. It was, I knew, beastly weather for 
her very lovely hat. The driver, of course, was willing, but 
I was stubborn. With a $12 rig and with no other day to 
spare I insisted on seeing the historical Pali. We kept on. 
The horses stalled once. Mr. Regan and I got out and 
walked a short distance. The horses appeared to be encour- 
aged when they saw us " footing it." We soon got in the 
carriage again and in due time arrived at the Pali. 

Pali means precipice. It is a pass of one thousand two 
hundred feet high, between peaks two thousand eight hun- 
dred and three thousand two hundred, respectively. It was 



A Letter in the Jungle. 57 

here the great battle was fought between Kamehameha of 
Hawaii and the natives of Oahu. The King's army pressed 
the natives through the pass and forced them with great 
slaughter over the Pali, the perpendicular precipice. 

From the summit we had a magnificent view of green 
fields, rice and sugar plantations and the ocean on either 
side. A government road has been built with great engineer- 
skill. It winds itself around the brink of the mountain,, 
crossing itself many times. We drove down quite a distance 
over the dizzy height on the smooth and finely constructed 
road. The contractors were two young men, graduates of 
Sanford University. The road was built for $40,000. It 
would not be built in the States, I venture to say, for $150,- 
000. Chinese and Japanese labor was used. 

A rather singular incident happened on our way back. 
Passing a cluster of bushes near a jungle I suddenly said; 
" There is ' a letter of mine in that bush." The others 
thought that I was joking. I held the horses while the 
driver went back. He came with the letter. It was mine. 
In some manner or other it had fallen or worked out of my 
pocket on the way up to the Pali. It had passed through 
the storm. It was odd that though on the opposite side of 
the carriage and going at a good rate, I recognized it. 

We noticed seven water-falls near each other on the 
mountain side. The driver said that scene had not been 
witnessed before for seven years. The profuse rain caused 
them. 

Let no traveler to Honolulu fail to visit the Pali. 

There are a number of Irishmen prominent among the 
business men of Honolulu. I met one of them. ' He said: 

" Father, I wish you would stay with us. We need a 
priest of our own. There are a good many of us. We older 
people can get along as matters are, but the younger people 
need stirring up." 



58 The English Language — Inhabitants. 

I asked : "Do you not get sermons in English ; do not 
the Fathers speak English?" 

'' Well," he answered, "you may say they do and again 
you may say they don't. It is called English, anyway." 

He acknowledged that the Fathers are good and zealous. 
I told him that no doubt they would soon supply any de- 
ficiency in the line of sermons in English. 

English is the language of the commercial world, and I 
think it is the coming language for the tourist and for the 
business transactions of the globe. The complaint of the 
man in Honolulu finds an echo in many other places. 

I was struck by the air of business in Honolulu . The 
day we landed a plantation was sold at auction for $251,000. 
The harbor also was crowded with shipping. 

In the harbor, about five hundred feet from the shore, 
were anchored two American men-of-war, the " Baltimore " 
and the " Bennington." This reminded me that the annexa- 
tion of the Hawaiian Islands was then a very live question in 
political circles. It is now an accomplished fact. How did 
the people there regard it? As far as I could learn it was 
summed up in the answer of the Father, who said that it 
was favored by the Protestant ministers, by the planters and 
the speculators, but not by the common people. 

I must confess that I was favorably impressed with the 
appearance of the natives. They are well proportioned and 
good-natured and not lazy, though improvident and not self- 
assertive. A number of them worked all day and until 11 p. 
m., coaling our steamer, and they worked with vim. 

There is not much exertion required to live in Honolulu. 
No fuel is needed for heating purposes, and the soil produces 
fruit in abundance. A little clothing suffices. 

There are a large number of Chinese and Japanese on the 
Islands. They are an industrious lot. 

Considering the many advantages of this climate and the 



The Hawaiian Islands. 59 

profusion with which nature has .scattered her gifts on 
these islands, I wish that Hawaii could annex the United 
States if we could only share in these blessings. 

Honolulu is two thousand one hundred miles from San 
Francisco and three thousand four hundred and forty from 
Yokohama. The group of islands is composed of eight in- 
habited isles, upon five of which is the great bulk of the pop- 
ulation. They are near the' middle of the largest body of 
water on the globe. The combined area is six thousand 
seven hundred and forty square miles. The islands are a 
considerable distance apart. From Honolulu to Molokai, the 
leper settlement, is fifty miles; to Maui is seventy-three miles, 
to Kauai one hundred, to Hawaii one hundred and fifty 
miles. The combined population was one hundred and nine 
thousand. Of these thirty-one thousand were pure Hawaii- 
ans. The x^mericans and Europeans numbered only fourteen 
thousand. 

The wonderful volcano of Kilauea is on the Island of 
Hawaii. It is not a cone, but is a lake of fire three miles in 
diameter, with perpendicular walls from three hundred to six 
hundred feet high. The lava is continually boiling in a furi- 
ous manner and dashing against the banks in fiery waves and 
throwing up clouds of molten spray. It presents the vivid 
picture of what we are told of the infernal regions. This 
wonder of the world is two hundred miles from Honolulu. 

The Postoffice at Honolulu is a peculiar building. The 
roof extends about eight feet beyond the walls. Under this 
extension stamps are purchased, the mail is delivered and 
letters are posted, at the places designated. There is no free 
delivery system. 

At about 8 p. m. Mr. Regan and I called at Fire Department 
Headquarters. Fire Chief James H. Hunt had gone to the 
steamer to meet the Boston Chief, but left word for Mr. 
Regan to wait in case he came in the meantime. Soon Chief 



60 The Fire Department — Molokai. 

Hunt returned. The meeting was very cordial between the 
chiefs. Mr. Hunt also hails from the old Bay State. After 
going through the fine stone structure, Mr. Regan declared 
that in his long experience he had never seen the equal of 
that fire department building. That certainly spoke well for 
Honolulu's enterprise. 

Chief Hunt sa'id: "Before you gentlemen go I want to 
give you a ' hook-up.' " He sounded the alarm. The horses 
sprang instantly to their places, the men came sliding down 
the poles, and in less time than it takes to write it, all was 
ready for a gallop on the road. I asked Chief Hunt the time, 
and he said that they did all this in six seconds, and from the 
first sound of the alarm they would be on the way to the fire 
in twenty-six seconds. What fire department can beat that 
record? 

Speaking of fire engines, I said to Chief Hunt and Chief 
Regan: ''In Cleveland the fire engines built by Mr. Thos. 
Manning are considered the best." 

Mr. Regan said : " The Manning engine is a very good en- 
gine, one of the best. Let me also say that while you have 
one of the best, if not the best, fire department in the coun- 
try, the Cleveland fire chief is the most honest and the most 
competent chief I have ever met." Chief Dickinson could 
not have had higher praise, and I was pleased to hear it. 

Chief Hunt drove us to the other fire engine houses and 
then drove us to the steamer, where we arrived only some 
minutes before its departure for Yokohama. 

A steamer from Australia arrived just before we left the 
dock . 

We passed the Island of Molokai. Here Father Damien 
sacrificed himself, condemned himself to a living death, that 
he might minister to the lepers. " Greater love than this 
no man hath, that a man lay down his life for his friends." 
This Father Damien did. His heroism has diffused a halo of 



Missionaries. 61 

Christian light in these later days throughout the world. 
When he fell a victim to charity, his brother, also a priest, 
took the martyr's place with the knowledge that his exile is 
to be crowned with martyrdom. A band of Sisters are also 
on the island to minister to the lepers. They have left father 
and mother, home and friends, to nurse the victims of a most 
loathsome and contagious disease. Before them is death in 
its most horrible form, but above them is the sure crown of 
immortal life — the reward of the martyr. When they are 
called home, other pure souls will plead for the privilege of 
self-immolation on that altar which is emblazoned with the 
love of God and the love of neighbor. 

The days of heroes and of heroism are not past. The 
spirit of self-sacrifice is fostered by the Church. Her chil- 
dren seek not the applause of the world, but gladly follow 
Him who meekly went to Calvary to give his life that we 
might live. 

In New Zealand there died a few years ago a missionary 
who had spent thirty years of his life among the Maories. In 
these thirty years he never tasted fresh meat, but identified 
himself with those among whom he lived by partaking of their 
humble food of rice, fish, or whatever could be got. During 
all that time he never tasted wine, but lived precisely as the 
Maories did. The missionaries make themselves all things to 
all men. 

We were struck in Honolulu by the palatial homes of the 
Protestant missionaries. 

I asked: " How could the missionaries get so wealthy?" 

A non-Catholic gentleman said: "By investments in land, 
followed by the " booms," etc." 

" The etc.," said Mr. Regan, " consisted in a great part in 
the selling of rum to the natives." 

"Well," said the gentleman, "as for that they sell rum 
to-day and are in business." 



62 Father Damien. 

What a contrast to the Catholic missionaries. Some time 
ago at Shanghai there was a meeting of some eighty mis- 
sionaries representing about forty creeds. The Chinese very 
justly said: "Before you come to teach us, why don't you 
agree among yourselves ? " 

Father Damien was confined and restricted with the 
lepers to the island of Molokai. It might be called both a 
prison and a charnel house. As time went on, how he 
longed for the grace and strength and consolation that 
comes from the Sacrament of Penance. The ways of Divine 
Providence are inscrutable. A steamer bearing a Bishop 
passed near Molokai. He longed to land to pay a visit to 
Father Damien. The captain refused, but finally agreed to 
make a short stop and sound the boat's whistle. A canoe 
put off from the shore. It contained Father Damien. But 
he was not permitted to board the steamer. The Bishop 
leaned over the ship's side. Father Damien knelt in the frail 
canoe and made his Confession to the Bishop in Latin. No 
one else understood. What a subject for the artist and the 
poet. The religion that inspires such heroism for the sake 
of the unfortunate must be divine. 

Father Damien landed among the lepers in 1873. By 
great care he avoided the disease until 1884. For five years 
he suffered but worked cheerfully and constantly until Holy 
Week, 1889. He had his Easter in Heaven. 

Among modern pagans we sometimes hear that selfish- 
ness is the strongest motive impelling men to action. Self- 
ishness has no reserve power and its scope is limited to the 
individual seeking to escape impending evil. It ought not to 
be mentioned in the same breath with the spirit of conse- 
crated charity performing for Christ's sake and the love of 
the afflicted, acts of self-immolation. The command to love 
our neighbor as ourselves, the example and teachings of 
Christ, the lives of the Saints, all inculcate self-sacrifice and 



The Poet Stoddard's Tribute. 63 

condemn selfishness. The Scriptures declare that many will 
be^condemned on the last day because they did not feed the 
hungry, give drink to the thirsty, or clothe the naked. 

The poet Stoddard has written a poem on Molokai and 
Father Damien. I quote tw^o verses : 

" Crowd on more sail! Though clouds were looming; 

Better the tempest's roar and strife, 
Better the wild waves' shock and booming 

Than that dread land of death in life — 
A land where exiles ne'er cease mourning, 

Where rank disease doth hold foul sway; 
A land from which there is no returning — 

The lonely Isle of Molokai. 

" Yet one long look ere sight be weary — 

Earth's holiest spot, in angel ken, 
Is where one, like the Son of Mary, 

Doth give his life for sin-cursed men; 
And as the home of God-like mortal, 

Who in such death can calmlj' say 
' Th}^ will be done!' It seems Heaven's portal 

This hallowed Isle of Molokai." 



64 Off For Yokohama, 



CHAPTER VI. 

OFF FOR YOKOHAMA — CHINESE GAMBLERS — A LOST DAY — 

CHINESE SUPERSTITIOUS FEAR OF THE DEAD — THE 

ENGINES OF THE PERU — ANOTHER STORM — 

A LETTER TO THE CHILDREN. 

We were out again on the blue waters and the lengthy 
swells of the grand Pacific. For fourteen days the ship was 
our floating home. Among the first cabin passengers were 
many prominent in the walks of life. Some had left us, 
and remained in Honolulu. I referred before to Rudolph 
Spreck'els, the son of the sugar king. With him was a 
prominent attorney of San Francisco, C. S. Wheeler. These 
gentlemen filled the offices of president and vice president of 
a sugar company that has a plantation of forty thousand 
acres on the islands. Mr. Wheeler told me that last year's 
yield amounted to fifteen thousand tons — sweetness by the 
ton. Mr. Wheeler was prominent and successful in the Fair 
will contest. He also told me that one of his college chums 
became a minister, but aftewards became a convert and is 
now a priest, Father Ramon, of the San Francisco Cathedral. 
I had the pleasure of meeting him. 

Mrs. E. F, Ames and her two daughters, related to the 
former governor of Massachusetts, stopped at Honolulu, 

Two Cubans, interested in sugar and coffee plantations, 
were also making " the grand tour." They were very dark 
complexioned. 

C. C. McMahan, one of the proprietors of the famous 
Bartlett Springs of California, was a passenger from San 
Francisco. 

W. C. Taylor, one of the proprietors of " The Engineers' 



Chinese Gamblers. 65 

Review," was on his way to Japan to study the railroad 
question. 

Mr. E. E. Rittenhouse was booked to Corea to organize a 
railway and to turn it over complete to the government. 
The contract covered only one page of letter paper. It made 
no specifications except that " the locomotives were to be of 
American make and the cars were to be of English make ." 
If the twenty-five miles specified proved satisfactory, a new 
contract for three hundred miles was to be signed. Mr. 
Rittenhouse was deathly seasick all the way from San Fran- 
cisco to Yokohama. Such a siege is a most woeful one, and 
I pitied him very much. His home was in Colorado Springs. 
As I sat in his state-room one day, he said : " No doubt my 
wife and children think that I am having a lovely time on 
this Pacific trip. ! if they only knew." 

Mr. Bramhall carried on the business of a silk merchant 
in Yokohama. He was an American but had lived in Japan 
seven years. He kindly made out an itinerary through the 
country for me. 

R. A. Cram, a prominent architect of Boston, was of the 
firm of ''Cram, Goodhue & Ferguson." Mr. Cram is a con- 
vert. He wrote some time ago an article in the Catholic 
World on church architecture. He was then building a large 
Catholic church at Fall River. He says that there are many 
who draw plans for Catholic churches with little idea of what 
is required. This fact is now patent to all concerned. Mr. 
Cram expected to get the contract to draw plans for the 
Parliament buildings. He was bound to Tokio, the capital of 
Japan, for that purpose. 

One night after nine o'clock I went with the doctor to 
visit the Chinese below decks. Many were asleep in their 
shelf-like bunks, but a large number were up and busy. At 
what, think you? At gambling. In two groups of ten each 
a game was played with dominoes. There was a banker, and 



66 A Lost Day. 

a good deal of money was in sight. As far as I could learn 
the one holding twenty-one points, or the nearest to that 
number, got the " pot," or the pile. Another group of six 
were playing 'a game of cards. Cards were dealt one at a 
time. On a second deal some took more and some took less, 
according to the discard. In response to a question of mine, 
the doctor told me that the game was " poker." Silver 
dollars were in evidence. I was told that as much as $800 
had changed hands in one night. Poor as they are, the 
Chinese will gamble — bet all they possess, and sometimes 
bet themselves — by losing they become virtual slaves to the 
winner, and remain so until they cancel the debt. The 
passion for gambling consumes the Chinese. They are the 
most inveterate gamblers in the world. 

An improvised opium den was in operation. Two con- 
firmed victims were there " hitting the pipe." It appeared 
to me that one of them would not long survive. He was 
dead in two days. 

The gamblers were in cool attire. They wanted little 
clothing there below decks. 

The traveler going west loses one hour in each fifteen 
degrees, or one hour in one thousand miles. When half way 
around the world from Greenwich twelve hours are lost. 
Therefore it is customary to drop a day in mid-ocean when 
the one hundred and eightieth degree of longitude west and 
east from Greenwich is passed. 

The year 1898 was, for me, a "leap" year. I lost a day. 
I retired on the evening of February 6th, and though I slept 
only seven hours, when I awoke, February 8th had dawmed. 
February 7th was a dies non, a lost day, a day dropped en- 
tirely out of the calendar as far as I and my fellow passen- 
gers were concerned. Were we older or younger than we 
would have been had we remained at home ? The traveler 



Chinese Superstition. 67 

coming in the opposite direction has a day thrown in. He 
gets a week of eight days. 

" O! Old Father Time grows tender and mellow 

As, roving the round earth, the sturdy old fellow^ 

Year in and year out, keeps going and coming, 

In winter's wild wreck and in summer's green blooming." 

The sea has many moods, and we found quite a number 
of them during our nineteen days' sail. With water every- 
where and sky above we had quite enough of the ocean for 
some time to come. However, most of our voyage was 
pleasant. Captain Friele very considerately took the South- 
ern course from Honolulu to Yokohama, giving us warm 
weather and fair seas until he had to steer north for the 
coast of Japan. 

I learned that the Chinese who died in the opium den on 
the steamer was named " Yung Sing." After being embalmed 
his remains were placed above the cabins. This was kept a 
secret, but confided to me by Dr. O'Neill. 

The Chinese always stipulate that in case of death they 
are to be embalmed and brought to the Celestial Kingdom for 
burial. The embalming costs $30. If there be a lack of 
funds in the personal effects of the deceased, a collection is 
taken up among the Chinese. But the Chinese have a super- 
stition that it is not lucky to give something for nothing. 
Hence the collector carries loaf sugar ; a lump is given to 
each contributor, who thus gets something in return. Pos- 
sibly some of those who fail to contribute in the churches 
would have their hearts and pockets opened by a lump of 
sugar. Who knows but what they are related to the Chinese 
and may be tainted with the superstition of the Celestials ? 
Good Christians know that for every sacrifice made through 
the love of God the reward is great in heaven, and often on 
earth in the form of temporal blessings. 

The Chinese have a superstitious fear of the dead. They 



68 The Engines of the Peru. 

don't want to go near a corpse. The first officer told me of 
a mischievous cabin boy who knew of the dread of the Chinese. 
Empty coffins are kept over the cabin roofs for cases of 
emergency. When the boy knew that it was about time for 
the Chinese crew to clean in that part of the ship, he got 
into one of the coffins. When the scrubbing was going on 
he made a noise and attracted their attention. As the coffin 
cover began to move, the Chinese let a yell and bolted in a 
body for the hold. No persuasion or threats could get them 
back on deck. Difficulties and dangers were accumulating 
when the cabin boy confessed his practical joke. When 
finally the Chinese were convinced that the ghost was not 
a real one, they insisted that the precocious joker should 
be discharged. A labor union formed under those circum- 
stances succeeded in its demands. 

A large steamship is a thing of beauty and of power. We 
often look at grand effects without giving a thought to the 
causes that produce them. As the " Peru" plowed through 
giant waves or rode over them, I thought of the mighty 
propelling power hidden down below. Being seated at the 
table between the doctor and the chief engineer, I expressed 
a desire to see the engines. After dinner down we went. 
What a marvelous machine ! I will not pretend to describe it. 
When pushed to its full capacity it develops two thousand 
eight hundred horse power. In addition there is the electric 
dynamo engine, the whole ship being lighted by electricity. 
There is also a distilling engine, by which the salt water is 
made fit to drink. The boiler room is about forty by fifty. Six 
large boilers are used. There are two fireplaces under each. 
Seventy-five tons of coal are consumed daily. I pitied the 
poor stokers. They were Chinese and twenty-nine of them. 
They work four hours on and are eight hours off. The heat 
reflected from the fires, the boilers and the iron floor is 
intense. The doctor called one of the firemen and showed 



Another Storm. 69 

me his face. It was broken and looked like meat partially 
cooked. I heard that a few trips before one of the stokers 
came on deck and leaped into the ocean, committing suicide. 
It is surprising that men can be hired to work in such ovens. 

I was given a practical illustration of antithesis, by being 
conducted from the furnace room to "the cooling room." It 
should be called " the freezing room." The meats, etc., of 
the ship are kept there. The freezing apparatus is a suc- 
cess. From the walls I took a handful of congealed frost 
and made a snow ball with it. I told the engineer that he 
ought to run a few of those pipes into the fire room. 

The steamer "Peru" is three hundred and sixty-six feet 
long, and is one of the smallest boats of the fleet. Her dis- 
placement is three thousand five hundred tons. 

For thirty-six hours, beginning on Saturday, the 12th 
inst., we had the experience of another storm at sea. The 
sight was thrilling, fascinating and fearful. The majestic 
spectacle out upon the ocean and around the ship lured me, 
with some trepidation, out upon the deck. Holding on to a 
rope rigging, I was awed by the mighty power of the angry 
ocean. Valleys formed with the valleys of the deep, and 
crest rose upon crest, and swept on in foam as far as the eye 
could reach. I could not very well measure the height of the 
waves as they came sweeping in with a might and magnifi- 
cence that I cannot adequately describe. Viewed from my 
position they appeared " mountain high." As the steamer 
mounted the crest of a mighty wave, and I looked down into 
the deep valley and saw it backed by a rolling mountain of 
angry water, I felt the sensation of approaching annihilation. 
The ship appeared to sink beneath my feet; down, down we 
slid, the lower we sank the higher above us rose the tower- 
ing mass of foam-covered water, ready to engulf our frail 
floating home. 

Then came to my lips the prayer, " De Profundis clam- 



70 Waves op the Pacific. 

avi." Our ship rose as upon invisible wings, and in a moment 
mounted the angry precipice of the sea. 

" Bursts as a wave that from the clouds impends, 
And swell'd with tempests on the ship descends; 
White are the decks with foam; the winds aloud 
Howl o'er the masts, and sing through every shroud; 
Pale, trembling, tired, the sailors freeze with fears; 
And instant death on every wave appears." 

The battle and the victory were repeated nearly every 
succeeding minute for hours. Driven away by shipping seas 
I gradually got back to the stern of the steamer. There the 
grandeur grew upon me, and the sense of danger was in- 
creased. I could see the whole length of the steamer as she 
presented a steep incline rushing down into the abyss and 
confronted by the mountains of water lashed into fury. How 
the ship rose so buoyantly and so quickly was a mystery and 
an inexpressible fascination to me. 

The waves of the Pacific, I am told, are much higher than 
those of the Atlantic ocean. I wondered why it was that 
away on the boundary of the horizon all around us I could 
see the waves mounting high. I supposed that at such a 
distance they would be lost amid the intervening waves and 
present no individuality. 

Speaking of the storm and its continuance to the captain 
he said that February is the worst month of the year for 
storms. I said then that the prospects were poor for my 
ocean voyage around India. 

" No," he answered, " our winter is their summer, and the 
best season for such a trip." So I had that assurance for 
my southern trip on the tour around the world. 

The storm, the rough seas and the head-winds delayed us 
very much. In twenty-four hours, ending at noon on Sun- 
day, we made only one hundred and seventy-four miles. The 
next twenty-four hours we made only two hundred and four- 
teen miles. We were about two days late in Yokohama. 



A Letter to the Children. 71 

There was but little sleep aboard during the nights of the 
storm. The rolling of the ship was communicated to the 
passengers in the bunks, to the trunks, to the valises and 
everything moveable in the rooms. 

When I came in from the deck after viewing the storm a 
woman said: "In a sea like this it is time to pray." Many 
had prayed. When great power menaces us we certainly 
feel our weakness, and are impelled to call upon Him who can 
still the waves and calm the storm. But we ought not to 
wait until we approach the shadow of death before we 
acknowledge an utter dependence upon Him Who made us. 
The powers and terrors of an angry sea are but a shadow 
of what will come to pass in "that dreadful day" when the 
heavens and the earth shall be moved. 

Our thoughts more than once wandered back to the 
warning of the old man on the dock at San Francisco when 
we ascended the ship for our wanderings upon unknown seas. 

Shakespeare was both witty and wise. In his advice to 
those who wander wide from home he says: "Think of thy 
friends when happily thou seest some noteworthy object in 
thy travels and wish them partakers in thy happiness," 

Many times I thought of friends and wished that they 
were near enough orally to share my thoughts as I wandered 
through strange lands and amid strange peoples. 

Before leaving home I had promised to write in turn to 
the school children in the different rooms. When they 
heard that my travels and observations " around the world" 
were to be put into book form, they insisted on the publica- 
tion of at least one or two of the letters to them. Hence I in- 
sert the following letter. It may also interest other readers : 

The Pacific Ocean, Feb. S, 1898. 
My Dear Children and Dear Teacher: 

I greet you and wish you every blessing, and I hope that you 
are all in the enjoyment of good health. 

I think that I promised, at your request, to write j'ou a letter 



72 Flying-Fish and Sea Birds. 

during my trip. Then it is well to begin it here in the midst of 
the Pacific Ocean. 

I have missed you all very much, and my thoughts have often 
" wandered back again " to the children of St. Bridget's School. 
While going farther away each day, every hour brings me nearer 
to you. This is a paradox. But what is a paradox? 

Yesterday — but we had no 3'esterday. Yesterday was drowned 
in the blue waves and surging swells of the Pacific. Last night 
was Sunday night, and this morning is Tuesday. Before I left I 
told 3^ou that this misfortune — a lost day — would come upon me 
and upon those aboard. Time is precious. How we value it as it 
flies, especially wh^n advancing years make us appreciate it the 
more. You are making good use of it in your studies. I am glad 
of 3-our progress. Make also good use of it advancing in virtue, 
a coin without which Heaven is not purchased. 

This morning, before breakfast, while seated on deck, I saw a 
flying-fish skipping over the waves. I was glad to witness this 
novelt\'. On the coast of California I saw on the rocks rising 
out of the sea about one hundred seals. I got near enough to 
hear them bark, but not near enough to feel them bite. Ever}- 
few minutes a seal would come climbing out of the ocean. I saw 
several swimming in the water. There were enough to make 
sealskin cloaks and coats for you all. But then they would have 
none. 

A whale spouted near the ship at Honolulu. It was near mid- 
night, but being on deck I saw him. How many of God's won- 
derful works are covered b}' the waves of the ocean. We onh' get 
a glimpse of some of them for a moment. 

The gooney-gulls, large brown birds with immense wings, 
circle about the steamer and follow in her wake. I often wonder 
how they live fifteen hundred miles from any land. They sail and 
sail and circle about and dip and rise for a very long time ^\'ithout 
a movement of their outspread wings. The}- gather in the rear 
and watch with open eyes for any refuse thrown from the ship. 
Then they have a feast. With feet in water, but with wings care- 
fully guarded, nothing, or ver}- little, is allowed to escape. I sup- 
pose they rest on the w-aves at night. The steamer moves on, but 
being swift of wing, they race after us at davbreak and soon over- 
take us. 

There is also another sea bird, called the frigate-bird. This 
bird is small but saticy; sometimes small beings are sauc}-. The 



A Pacific Sunset. 73 

frigate-bird is pugnacious. When a fish puts his head out of the 
waves or gets near the surface the sea gull pounces on hini and 
the poor fish never sees home again. But if the frigate-bird sees 
the sea gull with the fish, he pounces on the gull and takes the 
fish from him. It does no good for the sea gull to get mad and 
call names. " What can't be helped must be endured." 

The weather is " perfectly beautiful." The sun is shining, a 
refreshing breeze is blowing, the passengers sit on deck in summer 
clothing reading and talking, playing chess, singing, etc. Some 
of the Chinese help and sailors have their sleeves rolled up and 
their shoes and stockings put away. I wish I could send you 
some of this weather. I send 3^ou the "ship's log" for about 
ten hours after the start from Honolulu. In the twenty-four 
hours the ship goes three hundred and twenty-eight to three 
hundred and thirty miles 

W'e have got about two thousand miles to go of the three 
thousand five hundred and forty -two before we get to Yokohama. 
We expect to get there on St. Valentine's day. On Candlemas 
day I celebrated Mass in Honolulu on St. Joseph's altar. I did 
not forget to pray for you all, for your teachers and for your par- 
ents, because I know that you were praying for me. I was glad 
to have St. Joseph's altar. I had with me his statue in the pocket 
case given to me by your good teacher. Hence I was pleased 
to celebrate Mass on the altar of the Spouse of Our Lad}-. 

I need not give you any news of Honolulu, as I have sent 
that to "The Universe," where you all may read it. 

W^e are " rocked in the cradle of the deep." The rocking is 
sometimes, most of the time, from side to side, and sometimes 
from prow to stern of the ship. Under the circumstances, now 
and then I have found it difficult to stay in bed all night. The 
trunks and valises were having a good time skating from side to 
side of the state-rooms. 

To-night we had a magnificent sunset. W"e all got on the prow. 
One man took his kodak to get a picture. But no canvass and 
no brush can ever do justice to the great works of the Almighty. 

AVhen we came from siipper the bright full moon shone out 
from the rear of our steamer and lit up the waves of the ocean 
so that they shone like molten silver. But changes come quickly 
in this part of the world. It is now raining with tropical pro- 
fusion. 

As we approach Japan I am learning a little of the Japanese 



74 A Special Protection. 

language. Today I learned the numbers from i to 20: (i) ichi, 
(2) ni, (3) san, (4) shi, (5) go, (6) roker, (7) shichi, (8) hachi, 191 
ku, (10) ju, (11) juichi, (12) juni, (13) niju, etc. 

On the 1 6th inst. I expect to go to Tokio; 17th and iSth to 
Nikko; 19th, on train; 20th and 21st, Kioto; 23, Kobe; and then 
take steamer for Nagasaki and Hong-Kong. 

I will be so busy in Japan that I hardly think that I can write 
to anybody from the land of the Mikado. 

While this letter is for you, because you especially requested 
and to you I promised it, let all the rest of the family in the 
other rooms know of my progress and present to them and their 
teachers my special remembrance and best wishes. 

Some have been very seasick and are not well yet. They 
say: "Oh, I wish I was on dry land." One said: "Speak well 
of the sea, but stay on land." Yet the sea is grand. How mag- 
nificent in its power! How it shows the omnipotence and wis- 
dom of God. Out on the deck late at night, when all others 
have retired, I sometimes go to say the Rosary. With the sky 
above and the moving sea beneath thoughts crowd on the mind 
for meditation. 

The sea in its immensity reminds me of eternity. May your 
eternity be with God, Who made 3'ou, and may you never forget 
your Creator in the days of your youth or the years to come. 

To you and to Sister Joseph, your teacher, and to the other 
Sisters, good-bye. I will expect still your pious prayers. When 
to-night, on deck, people were talking of the dangers of the 
deep, I said that I felt a special protection. " Wh)-?" asked they. 
" Because," I replied, " there are manj- prayers said to that end. 
and among them the good prayers of my children, three hun- 
dred innocent souls petitioning the good God for a safe voyage." 

" Well," said those around me, " we are glad, Father McMahon, 
that you are with us, becaiise we will share in those prayers." 



Yokohama. 



75 



CHAPTER VII. 

HARBOR OP YOKOHAMA — BOATMEN — ASHORE — FRIENDS — THE 
BLUFF — THE SISTERS OF THE INFANT JESUS — THE 
JINRIKISHA — A QUEER CAUSE OF EARTH- 
QUAKES — JAPANESE THEATRES. 

We neared Japan at midnight of the 15th of February, 
and anchored outside Yokohama at 1 a. m. on the 16th. 
I remained up alone with the officers anxious to get a 
glimpse of the Sun Land. But I could see nothing except 
the lights that marked the many forts between which we 
sailed. 




YOKOHAMA, JAPAN. 



76 Haebor op Yokohama — Boatmen. 

Late to bed but early up I got my first view of the mag- 
nificent harbor of Yokohama. Vessels of all nations were 
at anchor and among them a number of warships. Our navy 
was represented by the " Concord." Looking toward the 
city from our anchorage, a quarter of a mile away, I saw a 
fleet of about forty small boats coming towards us with the 
scullers bending to their work with all their power. I asked 
the first officer if that was an early morning regatta. " Oh, 
no," said he, " those are boatmen making for our steamer 
for freight and passengers." I asked him how it came that 
all started at the same moment. He said that they were 
not allowed to leave the docks until the policemen gave the 
signal. As far as authority could arrange, all were getting 
an equal start in the race for their daily bread. 

How they did pull ! Were the prize a costly gold medal 
donated by the Mikado, they could not have exerted them- 
selves more. We needed heavy overcoats. They came on 
bare-headed to a man, and some of them bare-legged, as their 
flowing garments showed. The first man up got the gang- 
plank, or stairway. The others fell into place in order. 
Each appeared to recognize the rights of the winners in the 
race, and took their turns. The victors were not too greedy. 
On the principle of " Live and let live," each took only a fair 
load, or a medium load, giving the others a chance for some 
passengers and cargo. 

The cabin passengers waited for breakfast and then 
boarded a tug for shore. At breakfast comments were made 
upon the voyage and the unexpected roughness of a portion 
of it. Some said that they had prophesied a pleasant trip 
all the way across. I said that Josh Billings declared that 
the hen is the best prophet. Several asked why. " Because 
she never prophesies until after the event." 

After the laugh was over, Mr. Tayler, of the " Engineer- 
ing Review," said : " Father McMahon, why did you keep 



Ashore. 77 

that hidden all the way across the Pacific V I said that 
there had been no occasion for it to get off its roost. 

We passed the custom-house examination without trou- 
ble. As Mr. Rittenhouse, the railway organizer, and I walked 
away, he spoke of his gladness to be on terra firma, because 
he had been seasick, very seasick, all the way over. I said 
to him: "You are in a condition now to appreciate the 
declaration of the Scotchman." "What was that ?" he asked. 
I told him that the Highlander had taken a boat to cross an 
arm of the sea. He got very sick. After landing he 
silently walked up the hill. When he had reached the sum- 
mit he turned around and shook his fist at the sea and said : 
" It will be a long time before ye get a chance to dance wi'^ 
me on your back again." 

As Dr. O'Neill and I walked along the landing and turned 
up the street leading to the city I was surprised to notice 
about one hundred bare-headed Japanese men standing in 
front of little gigs. There were no carriages and no horses 
and no drivers. 

" Shall we ride ? " asked the doctor. 

"In what?" 

"In the * jinrikisha, '" he said, pointing to the little two- 
wheeled gigs. 

" Certainly, we will ride," I replied. 

The doctor held up his hand and two of the little black- 
haired, bare-headed, bare -legged men trotted out. The 
"rickshaws" as a rule carry only one passenger. 

"Where shall we go?" asked the doctor. 

" Anywhere," I said. 

Off started the horseless gigs at good speed. It looked 
like playing horse to me. I was back again to childhood. I 
wondered that business did not stop to see the little man 
pulling one twice his size. 

We went to the United States Consul to get a passport 



78 Friends. 

for Japan. This cost one yen, equivalent to one Mexican 
dollar, fifty cents. It was sent towards evening to the hotel. 

After leaving the legation we called at the Catholic 
Church. We found that the priest in charge was " Le Abbe 
Alfred Pettier, Missionaire Apostolique." He had been in 
Japan for thirty years. He told me that progress towards 
the Church among the Japanese is slow but steady. From 
other sources — non-Catholic — I found that the missionaries 
are much respected, and the only missionaries that are really 
respected. 

The church building was undergoing reconstruction. It 
was to be dedicated the 27th of February. The Fathers 
treated us very kindly and requested me to stay with them. I 
told them I would probably leave for Tokio, the capital, that 
night, as I wished to utilize my stay, and get a steamer at 
Kobe, three hundred and fifty miles away. 

After returning to the hotel and while speaking to some 
of the passengers on the sidewalk, a man stepped up and 
asked: "Is Father McMahon, of Cleveland, here?" 

Some one in far off Japan asking for me! You may 
imagine my surprise at this question. He then said:. "My 
wife saw your name in the list of passengers this morning. 
She had also received a letter stating that you were to make 
a tour of the world. She knows you and would like to have 
the pleasure of meeting you." He then presented his card, 
and I saw that his name was Mr. Myers and that he was in 
business at Yokohama. He said: "We shall be glad to 
make your stay here a pleasant one. My home is on 'The 
Bluff, No. 58.' " I promised to call. This incident almost 
made me look upon the immense Pacific as only a lake, and 
realize that the world is not so large as we sometimes 
imagine. 

In the afternoon Dr. O'Neill and I took jinrikishas to go 
to "The Bluff." "The Bluff" is the portion of the city set 



The Bluff — Sisters of the Infant Jesus. 79 

aside for foreign residents. From it a good view of the city 
and the bay is presented. Up the hill we met a bevy of fair 
bicycle riders. This scene was out of harmony with our 
ideas of Japan. But then we remembered that we were in 
the foreign settlement. 

In the cities of Japan places of business and residences, 
etc., are known by numbers. You tell the rickshaw man the 
number, mentioning no street. For instance, I told him in 
the forenoon to bring me to 78, to 284, to 80, etc. That 
was all the information he needed to bring me to the Catholic 
Church, to the bank and to the American Consulate. 

We soon found ourselves at 58, the home of Mr. Myers. 
I found that Mrs. Myers had been a Miss McDermot, who 
formerly lived in Kent, Ohio. Her parents having died. Father 
Cahill became her guardian. He brought her to the convent 
in Cleveland and on his way stopped with her at the parochial 
residence of St. Bridget's. I remembered the call. This was 
the beginning of my acquaintance with Mrs. Myers. She had 
been married and living in Yokohama for four years. Her 
husband had made it his place of residence for some fifteen 
years. The wedding took place in Chicago. 

Mrs. Myers took us to visit the convent of the Sisters of 
the Infant Jesus. The Mother Superior was still in office 
and in active duty at eighty-four years of age. She took no 
exemption from any rule on account of her age. 

The Mother Superior had been in Yokohama for twenty- 
five years. There were a large number of children in charge 
of the Sisters. They look after orphans, and have many of 
them cared for in private families. These children have to 
be brought once a month to the convent by their foster 
parents. The Sisters look closely after the proper care of 
the children. Once a month the Sisters pay the agreed sti- 
pend to those who care for the orphans. 

This plan, it appears to me, is most commendable. It 



80 The Jinrikisha. 

gives the orphan what he most needs and what he cannot get 
in the asylum, a home training. The Sisters in our asylums 
do all they can and make many sacrifices for the children, but 
for the orphans as for others, "be it ever so humble, there 
is no place like home." 

Among the Sisters were six native Japanese nuns. 

Yokohama is one of the free cities of Japan. It is more 
modernized than the cities in the interior. Yet Japanese life 
and customs are everywhere in evidence, though jostling 
with European methods. The city contains about one hun- 
dred and sixty thousand inhabitants, only a comparative few 
of them being foreigners. 

Time and again we met the jinrikisha, called for short 
the " rickshaw." I was much interested in this, a small two- 
wheeled covered cart or rather gig. Jinrikisha means *' man 
power wagon." It was, strange to say, introduced into Japan 
by an American missionary. There are now some two hun- 
dred and fifty thousand of them in Japan. I went to no 
place, town or city, where I did not find the "rickshaw." 
They line along in dozens. 

For a short journey the charge is ten "sen" (five cents); 
for an hour, fifteen sen, or fifty sen for a half a day. After 
dark the charge is twenty sen an hour. 

The rickshaw is the thing. There are no hacks; carriages- 
cannot compete with the little men and the little gigs. 
The rickshaw men are generally bare-headed, but many of 
them wear a big hat that looks like a large inverted mush- 
room. It is held above the hair by a framework. None of 
them wear boots — some are bare-footed, or apparently so, 
others wear straw shoes, or rather straw soles, others wear 
a cloth covering for the foot with a pocket for the big toe. 
This fits into a fastening on the sandal. Knee breeches are 
the rule, but stockings or leggins are not. While waiting: 
for customers I noticed that a half dozen or more of the 



Queer Cause of Earthquakes. 



81 



men would cluster about a pot of lighted charcoal on the 
street corners. Sometimes one would be reading a news- 
paper while the others would listen and be on the lookout 
for customers. 




.JINRIKISHAS, TOKIO. 

The jinrikisha men carry Japanese or Chinese lanterns at 
night. Pedestrians appear to do the same. To warn people 
of his approach the rickshaw man calls out : " Hi-i ! hi-i-i-i ! " 
The streets are used as sidewalks. These are seldom found, 
and not at all in the towns or cities of the interior. 

Japan has suffered much from earthquakes. In 1891, ten 
thousand people were killed by them. The Sisters told us that 
Yokohama had quite a shaking the Sunday evening previous 
to our arrival. The scientific man explains the causes of 
earthquakes by " gravitation," " density," "pressure," etc. To 
the common people of Japan the cause is plain enough. They 



82 Japanese Theatres. 

say it is the " jishinuwo." This is the great earthquake fish 
something like a monster catfish. This fish, they say, is seven 
hundred miles long and holds the world on its back. Its 
wriggling makes houses fall and the ground crack. With his 
tail up in the north and his head in the region of Kioto, he 
can shake all Japan. If the god, Kashima, did not hold him 
down with the '" rivet rock," he would destroy the whole 
country. 

This reminds me of the darkey who was explaining the 
working of the telegraph to another colored man who said he 
could not understand it. " You see," he said, " the telegram 
is like a dog. You pinch a dog's tail and he will bark on the 
other end. Now suppose a dog that would reach from Cleve- 
land to New York. You squeeze his tail here and he will 
bark there. So when the wire is squeezed here it barks in 
New York." 

I learned while there that there are a number of super- 
stitions peculiar to the people of Japan. 

The doctor and I visited the Yokohama nursery. The 
skill of the Japanese gardeners is remarkable. How they 
manage to stunt the trees I cannot tell. Some with trunks 
three inches in diameter were not more than fifteen inches 
high and were in flower pots. Two I saw were trained to 
represent peacocks in their form. 

The Japanese have a great fondness for the theatre. 
" Theatre Street " is a feature in each city. Long and fan- 
tastic streamers indicate the play houses. To attract the 
crowd the front of the theatre, which is on the ground floor, 
is thrown open, and part of the performance is given. Like 
a continued story, people become curious to know the out- 
come. Between performances the doctor and I entered a 
place to see the monkey actor. For a small offering the 
monkey was brought on the stage and put through his part. 
He was grey with age, but at command of the manager he 



A Little History. 83 

began and continued the performance. By gesture and 
grimace he manifested joy and sorrow, fear and affection, 
love and hatred, entreaty and passion, supplication and rage, 
disappointment and satisfaction, in a manner truly astonish- 
ing. It appeared that the performance was " a take off" on 
some local actor. 

Japan was not opened to the nations until 1853. Ameri- 
can sailors and whalers shipwrecked on the coast had been 
badly treated. On the 7th of July, 1853, Commodore Perry, 
with four of the finest vessels in the United States navy, 
cast anchor near the present Yokohama. With the men-of- 
war he soon brought the " Great Tycoon" to time. A treaty 
was signed making two open ports for the supply of coal, 
provisions and water to ships. Sailors were to be treated 
kindly, and an American Consul was to be permitted to reside 
in Japan. But trade or residence of citizens was not then 
allowed. On September 3, 1856, the American flag was 
raised at Shimoda in front of the Consulate of the United 
States. The Commodore Perry referred to here was not our 
Oliver of Lake Erie fame, but Matthew C. Perry, his younger 
brother. In 1859, the foreign settlement at Yokohama 
began. A new treaty had been made in 1858. 



A Japanese Railway Train 



CHAPTER VIII. 

A JAPANESE RAILAVAY TRAIN — TOKIO — THE CITY BY GAS- 
LIGHT — CATHOLICITY IN TOKIO — BUDDHIST PRIESTS AND 
. TEMPLES — THE MUSEUM — STORES — GOVERNMENT 
BUILDINGS — A JAPANESE HOUSEHOLD. 

Having " done " Yokohama, I started for .Japan's capital, 
Tokio, on the night of the 16th of February. 

I noticed at the depot and many times afterwards that 
although the United States opened Japan, England has the 
"inside track" and furnishes the railway supplies. The 
engines have the Manchester brand upon them and the cars 
came from the same country. The employes are now all 
natives of Japan. The principal railway is operated by the 
Japanese Government, as is also the telegraph system. 

The railway coaches are constructed as they are in 
Europe. There are three classes of coaches, the first, second 
and third. When $1 is charged for a third class ticket, $2 
are charged for a second class and about $2.75 for a first 
class ticket. 

Before the train started the tickets of all the passengers 
were punched and then the compartments were locked. No 
conductor appeared during the trip. When we stopped at 
Tokio I found that to get out of the depot the passengers 
had to surrender their tickets to the gateman. I began to 
look for mine, but I searched in vain. All the other passengers 
had gone and I was left alone and of course soon attracted 
attention. I explained the situation as well as I could. I 
was then brought into the ticket department where a half 
dozen officials talked Japanese without punctuation marks. 
On my way to the tribunal I petitioned St. Anthony to get 



ToKio — A Welcome to the Emperor. 



85 



me that ticket. The officials looked puzzled. I told them 
whence I came. I also offered, if necessary, to pay cash for 
the ride if they had any doubts on the matter or if the rules 
required it. After some consultation a long book was taken 
down and some entry was being made and I had the ticket 
money ready if required. Just then a man came running into 
the office. He laid my ticket from Yokohama on the counter. 




ASAKUSA TEMPLE, TOKIO — A WELCOME TO THE EMPEROR. 

All the officials bowed profoundly and smiled sweetly, and I 
was given the freedom of Tokio. Accidentally my ticket had 
dropped to the floor of the car before I got to the station. 
I thanked St. Anthony for coming to my rescue so promptly. 
In front of the depot I found the ever-present jinrikisha 
man. The crowd having gone, no customer was expected, 
hence the rickshaw man had his back to me. I said to myself: 
''That is a mere boy, I will not ask him to pull me." But 



86 The City by Gaslight. 

when he turned around I saw that he would never grow 
larger. By the way, I have learned that tall men would not 
be licensed because they would necessarily hold the thills so 
high that the rickshaw would be uncomfortable for the 
rider. However, I don't know where they keep the tall men 
in Japan. I did not see them among the common people, the 
police or in the army or navy. 

When I hailed the little fellow in front of the station, I 
found that he could not understand me. I was glad of it. 
Another rickshaw man came running up. He understood 
" Imperial Hotel." He darted away, and in due time we 
arrived at the hotel. 

It was after supper, or " dinner," as it is called, and I had 
to put up with a cold lunch. I told the clerk, who spoke 
some English, that I wanted a guide immediately, and some 
jinrikishas, as I wanted to see the largest city in Japan and 
study its people by night. 

Tokio is a city of one million six hundred thousand people. 
The buildings, as a rule, being but one and two stories high, 
it covers much ground — about fifty square miles. 

The guide soon came. With him were four men, two for 
each rickshaw. The guide wished to know where I desired to 
go. I told him that I was a stranger and I wanted to go 
.through the city merely to see it under the gas light and to 
learn what I could about it. 

With a grey mackintosh about me and wearing a gray 
traveling cap, we started out into the darkness to " do " as 
well as might be, the capital of Japan. I had to entrust my- 
self to the honesty of the five heathen strangers. The 
thought of danger flashed upon me, but I put it away, saying 
to myself that a timid person should not leave home to go 
around the world alone. Ofl^ we went at a six mile an hour 
rate. 

We were soon in verv narrow and very crowded streets. 



Catholicity in Tokio. 87 

Some of the streets, not so wide as our alleys, appear to do 
much more business than is done on the principal business 
streets. The crowds reminded me of election nights when 
people assemble down town to read the bulletin boards. 
The rickshaws tore along among the crowds with the fre- 
quent cry of " hi-i, hi-i " from the pullers. The people parted . 
before the rickshaws as the water before the steamship's 
prow.' All appeared to know instinctively on which side to 
step out of the way. Collisions appeared inevitable with the 
numerous rickshaws coming in the opposite direction. There 
was in many cases only room for two rickshaws to pass with 
good management. For a time I was on the lookout for a 
collision and an upset. Having had many apparent narrow 
escapes, I lost all fear and made my observations as we spun 
along to — to somewhere. We went six miles through a per- 
fect maze of streets and by-ways before we stopped. After 
walking around four or five blocks with the guide, to study 
Japanese life and customs, we again mounted the jinrikishas 
and started back another way to the Imperial Hotel. We 
arrived there at 11 p. m., having been gone two hours. 

The guide's charges were $2.50, and the four men $2.60 
in Japanese money. The total bill was settled by $2.25 of 
our money. I engaged the guide to return the next morning 
at 9 o'clock. The guide's services are $2.50 for an hour, or 
the same for a day, with fifty ~ sen added for each person, 
when there are over two in the party. K. Ishigami was my 
guide's name. 

The next morning I started off to find the Cathedral. 
I met there the pastor and the Archbishop. His Grace was 
a fine appearing and pleasant dignitary. He told me that he 
had been in Japan for twenty-five years and that there were 
in Tokio three thousand native Catholics, besides a few for- 
eigners. He had met Bishop Gilmour in New York. He 
kindly invited me to dine with him that evening at 7 o'clock. 



88 Buddhist Priests and Temples. 

I asked him for his photograph. He had none, but took an 
engraving from a book and gave it to me. The Archbishop 
said that all was then peaceful in .Japan, and that the outlook 
was encouraging. 

There were then four Catholic churches in Tokio and a 
native priest at the Cathedral. The church is of the Gothic 
style. The greater part of the church floor was covered 
with mats in Japanese style. Upon these the congregation 
kneel and sit. There are a few benches or pews on the side 
for Europeans. The church will seat about six hundred. 

The guide who came in the morning was not the one I had 
engaged the night before. I learned that he was sick, and 
had sent this substitute. The guides have a guild and a reg- 
ulation card price. 

Mr. and Mrs. Regan arrived from Yokohama, and with 
myself, the guide, and four rickshaws started first to visit 
the celebrated mortuary temples of the Shoguns and Shiba 
and Uyeno Parks. The finely woven, exquisitely clean mats 
and polished floors in the temples would be marred, if not 
ruined, by the tread of coarse and dirty leather, so the guide 
provided us with cloth pockets to encase our shoes. The 
bronze temple doors are famous for their fine workmanship. 
A mint of money must have been spent on these temples. 
Gold was used very lavishly in the decorations and upon the 
shrines. The carvings are. very finely executed and cover a 
wide range of subjects in the animal kingdom. 

We^ went to one of the temples while service was being- 
held. Six Buddhist priests in a squatting posture before the 
altar were engaged in singing a chant to the beating of some 
metal instrument. They wore vari-colored vestments similar 
to our dalmatics and copes. No one was present in the vast - 
temple except Mr. and Mrs. Regan, the guide and myself. 
After a time the chanting ceased. One of the priests then 
covered his mouth with a piece of white cloth that appeared 



Idols in Buddhist Temple. 



89 



to be arranged so as to stick to his cheeks. He then ap- 
proached the altar where lights were burning, and profoundly 
and reverently genuflecting, he placed the offering upon it. 
He then went to the side altars and went through a similar 
ceremony. After this the services were over and the priests 
withdrew in silence. 




IDOLS IN BUDDHIST TEMPLE. 

Between the place reserved for the people and what might 
be called the sanctuary there is a kind of fence four feet 
high. The three horizontal rails are about a foot apart, per- 
mitting a good view. 

The Shoguns were fifteen in number. They usurped and 
exercised royal power for nearly eleven hundred years, while 
keeping the Mikado under their control. They were the 
Tycoons. Many suppose that the Tycoons were the Em- 



90 AsAKUSA Temple — The Museum. 

perors. Under this impression our country made the first 
treaty with the Tycoon. Townsend Harris, our first consul, 
discovered the imposition. He had much difficulty afterwards 
to get the Mikado at Kioto to sign the treaty. The last of 
the Shoguns was defeated in 1868. He is now a member of 
the House of Peers. "The Tycoon," as such, does not now 
exist. Many of the Tycoons had temples built during their 
lives to insure themselves divine honor. These are scattered 
through Japan. 

Asakusa temple appears to be the most popular Buddhist 
temple. Here religion and amusement go hand in hand. One 
form of devotion which I noticed consisted of the worshipers 
making a spit-ball of a prayer written on paper and then 
throwing it at the wire screen that stood before the altar. 
If the spit-ball stuck it was a good omen. If it did not stick 
the worshiper tried again and again with more spit-balls. 
There was an object lesson of perseverance in prayer. I also 
saw there the praying-wheel. These wheels work by hand or 
water power. The prayers or petitions are attached to 
them. The wheel revolves in honor of the deity. The place 
reminded me of the Midway Plaisance at our Chicago Cen- 
tennial Exposition. 

But the park and the streets around were much more 
crowded, and the entertainments more numerous and varied. 
I was glad to get some good pictures of all these places. 

At Uyeno Park I saw the trees planted by President and 
Mrs. Grant when they were making their tour around the 
world. 

We passed through the Government Museum at Uyeno 
Park and the bazaar for the sale of goods of Tokio manufac- 
ture . It Avas both interesting and pathetic to view the relics 
of persecution in the Museum. There were broken beads, 
shattered images and disfigured crucifixes. We saw the crucifix 
imbedded in wooden blocks. The Catholics in centuries past 



Stores — Mode of Trucking. 91 

were called upon to trample on the sacred emblem of redemp- 
tion or suffer the alternative of death. The blood of the 
martyrs is bearing fruit in the many conversions that mark 
modern Japan. 

As a rule the stores have no windows. They are not 
needed as the whole front is open. The buildings are mostly 
of one story, sometimes of two. When of two, the second 
story is closed by lattice work. The shop is on the lower floor. 
When you enter there is a space of four or five feet on the 
ground. Then you come to a raised platform one or two 
feet high, eight or ten feet deep. This is the shop for the 
sale of goods. Before the customer enters the shop proper 
he leaves his clogs or sandals on the first floor. The high 
platforms are highly polished or have mats of fine workman- 
ship and texture. These mats are all three by six feet. By 
counting them you can tell the exact size of the shop. The 
shop-keeper and the customer squat down on the mats and 
begin the trading. They often first smoke a pipe together. 
But the Japanese pipe only holds about a third of a thim- 
bleful. 

The Japanese are very industrious and hard working. 
They do a great deal of carting themselves. I was often 
surprised at the size of the loads one man would pull on his 
two-wheeled cart. Sometimes he was helped by a boy. In 
pulling a cart loaded with ship timbers three or four men 
would be employed. Now and then we would notice a ringed 
ox harnessed to a cart doing this or similar work. I saw on 
a number of occasions one man pulling a cart loaded with 
stone, or brick, etc. Now and then we would meet a man 
leading a horse pulling a load ; I never on such occasions saw 
the man ride. He always walked before the rather medium- 
sized, in fact, small-sized horse. On account of their deep 
bangs I could not see the horses' eyes. But they must be 
vicious, as most of them were muzzled. I understand that 



92 Government Buildings — A Japanese Household. 

European or American horses cannot be used there as they 
become victims of rheumatism. The streets are kept in good 
repair. 

While in Tokio we called at the United States Legation. 
We met there Mr. Wlilard D. Baker, of Maine. W^e applied 
for permits to visit the Royal Palace at Kioto. He said 
that he would secure the permits from^ the government and 
forward them to us at Yokohama in two days. 

In Tokio we saw the Government Buildings, the Castle 
surrounded by a double wall and a fine large moat. We were 
near the marble bridge which leads to the Mikado's Palace, 
but no one is allowed unbidden to enter on or go across it. 
We saw the soldiers on guard and witnessed the drilling of 
infantry, cavalry and artillery. We were passed by the 
equipage of U. S. Minister Beck. His Japanese driver and 
footman had on their collars the U. S. national coat-of-arms. 

The guide brought us to visit a Japanese house. I was 
glad of this, as I wished to see the interior and notice the 
customs of household life. The house was spacious and the 
grounds beautiful. The ladies of the house met us at the 
entrance. On their knees, but leaning back on their heels, 
they awaited us. When we arrived at the threshold they 
bowed profoundly and bade us welcome. We then removed 
our shoes as custom demands and entered in our stocking 
feet. The Japanese would be as much outraged by our 
entering with our boots on as would we were our callers to 
walk around on our chairs, sofas and tables with their usual 
footgear. The six by three mats which cover the floors 
serve as chairs and tables for these people. In visiting the 
house we found that the apparent walls consisted of light, 
sliding partitions. A way in or a way out was easily made 
by sliding one of these. 

At tea time we got down on the mats — i. e. on the floor. 
We had not the knack or the training of our hosts, and hence 



A Japanese Tea. 93 

we were very awkward about it. We were served with tea 
in very dainty cups . Neither sugar nor milk was used. The 
cake was very nice. A very nice young girl waited on us. 
She was grace personified as she sank down beside each in 
serving the tea, etc. I was indeed glad when " tea " was 
over as I was anxious to get a chance to straighten out. Mr. 
and Mrs. Regan and I restrained our risibility with difficulty 
as we glanced at each other trying to appear comfortable. 
The girl who conducted us from room to room sank on her 
knees in each apartment and said some short vocal prayer in 
honor of the deity to whom the room was dedicated. In each 
room there is a little raised platform in one corner sacred 
to the penates. When we left the ladies took their position 
at the door and bowing low uttered their "sayonaras" (good- 
byes). 

Were we to judge by the temples we should consider the 
Japanese to be a very religious people. In Tokio alone there 
are one thousand two hundred and seventy-five temples. 
There are also one thousand two hundred and twenty-five 
schools. 

There is a street horse-car line in Tokio, and there are 
over one hundred native newspapers. Many fine bridges span 
the river. I noticed that the dredging is done by men in 
small boats. They take up the dirt by hand-scoops. While 
this method is not modern, still it gives employment to a large 
number of men. 



94 Off For Nikko. 



CHAPTER IX. 

OFF FOR NIKKO — FARMS AND FARMERS — NIKKO — EN ROUTE 

TO KIOTO — FIRST NEWS OF THE DESTRUCTION OF THE 

MAINE — KIOTO — OSAKA — EXPERIENCE TEACHES 

WISDOM — PARTING COMPANY AT KOBE. 

Nikko is one of the most beautiful places in Japan. The 
Japanese have a proverb which says: "See Nikko before you 
see Kikko." Kikko means splendid. Nikko is ninety miles 
north of Tokio. It is the Saratoga of Japan. Mr. and Mrs. 
Regan and I had arranged to go there by rail. We engaged 
three jinrikisha men to be at the hotel at 6 a. m. to take us 
to the Nejens depot, three miles away. Breakfast was served 
in our rooms. 

The morning was cold, so cold that a hea\'y overcoat 
and laprobe were needed. We were then told that the 
rickshaws were ready. I found my man with only light, 
short cotton trunks, a light sleeveless jacket and bare- 
headed. I looked at him in mute astonishment, and said : 
"Mr., I did not want to miss the train but neither did I want 
you to come in such a hurry as not to dress. Go back and 
put on your trousers and a coat." He merely smiled good- 
naturedly, showing that he did not understand. Mr. Regan 
said : "Don't mind him, Father; he hasn't got horse-sense, if 
he does pull a gig." Off we went. I felt ashamed of my 
rickshaw man. But in a little while I met other rickshaw 
men who had evidently got up in as much of a hurry as mine 
so I held up my head and looked about me, pretending not to 
notice the fellow. 

The ticket agent would not sell us tickets to Nikko until 
we showed our passports from the Japanese government. 



Farms and Farmers. 



95 



Neither would hotel-keepers outside of the free cities enter- 
tain us unless we were supplied with the necessary document. 
On the way to Nikko we noticed how carefully and how 
well the Japanese till the land. None is wasted, even the 
steep hillsides are terraced. Looking out on the extensive 
rice fields with no house in view, a stranger would come to 
the conclusion that the farms in Japan are very extensive, 
but he would notice numerous villages about a mile and a 




PLOWING FOR RICE. 



half apart. Therein live the farmers. They congregate to- 
gether, no matter how far away their land may be, but it is, 
as a rule, within the radius of a mile. The Japanese believe 
in " a little farm well tilled." At least the majority of such 
farms, so called, do not exceed an acre. Some of the more 
prosperous have ten-acre farms. All the land, nominally, but 
only nominally, belongs to the Mikado. 

Japan, next to China and Central Hindo, appears to be 
the most thickly populated country on the globe. It is only 
half the size of Texas and yet contains forty-two million 
people. 



96 NiKKO — En Route to Kioto. 

On the way to Nikko we passed through a number of 
flourishing towns. At one of the stations I saw several 
criminals tied together. They were on their way to the peni- 
tentiary. Crime is as broad as the world. 

We changed cars at Netsunomija. I saw there a gang of 
Japanese section hands at work on the railroad. They were 
raising the track. Instead of the old-fashioned tamping-bar, 
one end of the pick was shaped like the end of the old bar. 
They chanted an "all-together" song. Every pick went up 
and came down as if handled by one man. No wheelbarrows 
were used. The dirt was carried by means of baskets at the 
end of a pole, each basket between two laborers. 

Nikko is very fine in winter, but it must be grand in 
summer. It is up among the mountains. Crystal streams of 
water flow down the side of the main street. The temples 
are magnificent. Near the bridge which spans the river is the 
so-called sacred bridge. No one has ever crossed it but the 
Emperor's daughter, and she but once. The tombs of the 
First and Third Shogun are there. Two magnificent rows of 
large trees cover the avenue for miles and miles. In the 
days of old, great and imposing processions of pilgrims and 
Shoguns and Mikados marched on the journey for days and 
days from Yeddo, now Tokio, to the temples and shrines of 
Nikko. There are about tw^enty-five hotels at Nikko. 

We got back to Tokio after midnight. It was raining 
hard. The rickshaws landed us at the Metropole Hotel at 1 
o'clock a. m. 

The next morning at 8 o'clock we started for Yokohama. 
We left there that afternoon at 1 : 30 for a ride of seventeen 
hours to the heart and center of old Japan, the city of Kioto. 

There are no sleeping cars in Japan. We had hoped 
that by taking a first class coach we would get sufficient 
room to stretch out on the long cushioned seats. Two pas- 
sengers were in the small compartment. One of them from 



First News of the Maine. 97 

his dress, I judged to be an Episcopal minister. We ex- 
changed cards. I found then that our companion was Arch- 
deacon Shaw, of Tokio. He was going to a town about forty 
miles away. We had a pleasant chat about the country and 
its inhabitants. I asked him when we could get the best 
view of Fusiyama, the famed Sacred Mountain of Japan. 

When he replied : "Just after you leave the second last 
tunnel," I said to him: "If that is not 'a bull' it is near 
one." 

"Why?" 

" How can a perfect stranger tell when he is leaving the 
second last tunnel ? " 

After a long pause, he said: "Ah ! Ah ! Yes, that's so." 

When the Archdeacon and some others left, we had the 
car to ourselves. While we were rejoicing, the car was cut 
off to lighten the train across the mountains. The first class 
passengers were gathered into one car, so there was little 
hope for a sleep. 

We passed through some grand mountain scenery during 
the afternoon. xVs night wore on we longed for the Ameri- 
can sleeping car. An English " missionary," his wife and 
three children monopolized much of the car. They evidently 
had contracted the habit of looking out for number one and 
apparently had little regard for the Golden Rule. 

While riding in the gloomy car, I fell into conversation 
about midnight with a young man who hailed from England. 
He was traveling for a commercial house. He said: " I per- 
ceive that you are from America. I read among the dis- 
patches to-day that the United States Battleship Maine was 
blown up in the harbor of Havana, and many lives lost." 
I was anxious to know how the explosion had occurred, and 
other particulars, but he could give no further information. 
How strange to have heard of that portentous event in that 
way, at midnight on a train in Japan ! It must have been 



98 Kioto. 

five days after the explosion. From time to time, as I trav- 
eled in the Orient, I learned of war preparations. 

At midnight a guard opened the car door and said that 
there was room in the car ahead for two to stretch them- 
selves. A gentleman and I quickly left our car. While in 
the car ahead I used my valise for a pillow and the steamer 
robe for a blanket. The night was very cold. An attempt 
was made now and then to heat the cold car by pushing in 
an iron hot water heater. An influx of passengers about 
4 a. m. drove me back to the original car. 

We got to Kioto at 7 a. m., on Sunday. We went on 
rickshaws to the celebrated Yaami's Hotel. I immediately 
got ready to find the church. I wandered through the 
streets until I came to the church. 

I celebrated Mass at 8 o'clock, in the Church of St. Fran- 
cis Xavier. That illustrious saint had honored Kioto with 
his consecrated presence. The church is a very nice and 
commodious Gothic structure. The pastor had been in Japan 
for nearly thirty years. He himself had baptized one thou- 
sand three hundred and twenty-six Japanese. A Japanese 
served my Mass. The pastor told me that the Buddhists are 
hopelessly divided. Division is an essential concomitant of 
error. 

Previous to leaving Yokohama, I telegraphed Mr. Baker 
that the promised permits for the palace at Kioto had not 
arrived. He telegraphed back ; " Permits mailed this morn- 
ing." 

We visited the Hongwanji temples and the temple of the 
three thousand three hundred and thirty-three gods. For 
three cents the great bronze bell, eighteen feet in height, 
was rung for us. This was done by means of a beam swung 
as a battering ram. The Gigashi Hongwanji temple is the 
largest, the finest and the newest temple in Japan. It was 
built to replace one which was burned. It covers fifty-two 



Osaka. 99 

thousand three hundred and eighty square feet, and is one 
hundred and twenty-six feet high. 

The city of Kioto has two hundred and fifty thousand 
inhabitants. It is beautifully situated and is surrounded by 
mountains. Two streams of water, separated by an embank- 
ment, run side -by side through the center of the city. For 
centuries Kioto was, until 1868, the royal city and home of 
the Mikados, The houses and streets are much like those of 
Tokio. I walked through them back from church seeking to 
find the hotel. I lost my bearings, but it did not much mat- 
ter as I saw something new at every turn. I knew the 
general direction in which I should go and hence was not 
alarmed. When I finally got to the hotel Mr. and Mrs. 
Regan took the jinrikishas to go to the last Mass. The 
Kioto season begins in April. 

Monday we departed from Kioto, After a ride of sixty 
miles we arrived at Osaka, the second largest city of Japan. 
Osaka is sometimes called the Venice, and sometimes the 
Chicago, of Japan. It deserves both names. Its numerous 
canals are spanned by three hundred bridges. The hustle 
and hum and extent of its trade would remind you of the 
great city on the shores of Lake Michigan. 

After supper I requested the proprietor of the Osaka 
hotel to get me a rickshaw, as I wanted to see the city by 
night. Mr. and Mrs. Regan preferred to remain in the hotel, 
so I started alone. 

My ride was somewhat similar to the one I had enjoyed 
in Tokio. Business and trade were being pushed in manufac- 
turing and sales even to a late hour. The streets were 
crowded by an orderly, good-natured multitude. The popula- 
tion of Osaka in 1895 was four hundred and ninety thousand. 

Much of the history of Japan was made within the Castle 
of Osaka. It was erected In 1583 by one of the Shoguns, 
and the last act of the Shogunate was played there in 1868. 



•-., 8f 



100 Experience Teaches Wisdom. 

There are many temples in Osaka and the National Mint is 
located there. We visited the large commercial bazaar. 

We called at the Cathedral. I was sorry to find that the 
Rt. Rev. Bishop Chatian was absent. The Bishop, I learned 
from the pastor, had been a classmate of Archbishop Ireland 
in France. I had the pleasure there of meeting a native 
Japanese priest. He laughed heartily when on leaving I 
saluted him with " sayonara" (good-bye). The Cathedral is 
a fine building and is located on a beautiful site. 

The police are always on the lookout for foreigners who 
stray into the forbidden cities. Osaka is not a free city. 
We had not been there an hour when our passports, our 
Japanese passports, were demanded by the officers, who came 
to the hotel for them. We had taken the precaution to be 
properly supplied. 

The jinrikisha man after my night ride tried to impose 
upon me. The Jehu appears to be alike the world over. I 
had looked up a little of the Japanese language on my way 
across the Pacific and asked him, when we returned from the 
ride : "Ikura" (how much)? He said : "Roukju sen." I re- 
plied : "Not by a good deal — niju sen." He had asked three 
times the stipulated amount. I called the proprietor. When 
I found that he was veering around to the side of the rick- 
shaw man, I said to him: "Instead of co-operating to fleece 
your guests, you should protect them from imposition. I 
suppose you think an American is fair prey." I threw down 
the proper amount (niju sen) and left them. The next morn- 
ing I would not hire the same rickshaw man. Moreover I 
made them agree upon the price for a half a day for three 
rickshaws before we started. Experience teaches wisdom. 

In my travels through Japan I had tried first and second 
class passenger cars. I had told Mr. Regan that I would try 
a third class for the hour's ride to Kobe. But after standing 
in line with about one hundred and fifty men still ahead of 



Parting Company at Kobe. 101 

me at the third class window, I gave up the idea, fearing I 
would miss the train. 

We arrived in Kobe, the seaport city, in the afternoon. It 
is quite Europeanized and not of very much importance to the 
traveler from America. Hence, I did not care to remain 
there very long. 

We went to Kobe to take the steamer "Coptic" for 
Hong-Kong. It had not arrived even at Yokohama, three 
ihundred and fifty miles away. It was then two days late. 
There was no news from it. I learned afterwards that it 
was caught in the storm in which we were on the Pacific, 
and had fared badly. It was much torn and battered, and 
for sixty hours no meals could be served on board owing to 
the fierceness of the storm. It proved to be seven days late. 

Mr. Regan had Cook's tickets and had to wait for one of 
Cook's boats, of which the " Coptic " was one. I was free. I 
found that the steamer "Hohenzollern" was soon to leave. I 
Iiad no time to spare if I wished to keep my program and 
reach Jerusalem for Easter. I had just time to get the 
steamer. So with regret I had to part company with Mr. 
and Mrs. Regan. We had had several weeks of pleasant com- 
panionship. Feeling deeply the separation, and especially 
among strangers, we had little inclination and not much time 
to talk. W^e expressed the hope that we would meet again, 
and possibly cross the Atlantic and go home together. 



102 ' The Far-Famed Inland Sea. 



CHAPTER X. 

THE FAR-FAMED INLAND SEA — AT NAGASAKI — HUNTING A 

CHURCH — RELICS OF THE MARTYRS — THE HOLY HILL 

— THE PAPPENBERG — MARTYRS OF JAPAN — 

FAREWELL TO JAPAN. 

By making haste I got my ticket from Kobe to Nagasaki 
and reached the waiting tug as it whistled its last call before 
starting for the " Hohenzollern," which was anchored some 
distance out. In honor of some officials the tug carried a 
brass band, which busily regaled us with good music. The 
shades of night had fallen and the waves threw the spray 
over the tug. With some difficulty and not a little danger 
we got from the dancing tug to the ladder on the steamer. 
I got a state-room, but soon found that it had been pre- 
empted. When I laid the case before the German steward 
he looked on his list. On finding the cause of the mistake 
he used some strong language in his native tongue, which he 
evidently did not suppose that I understood. However, I 
got satisfactorily located and " all's well that ends well." 

Kobe lies at the entrance of the far-famed Inland Sea of 
Japan. I arose early in the morning to enjoy as much as I 
could of the entrancing scenery. As the voyage to Nagasaki 
occupied two days and two nights, I had a good opportunity 
of seeing the beauties, the grandeur and the surprises that 
revealed themselves every hour. We floated in and out 
among mountainous islands and terraced hills which, covered 
with foliage and clad in verdure, came down to kiss the blue 
waters of the land-locked sea. At some places the channel 
is so narrow that a stone could be thrown to either shore. 
At times it appeared that we had gone astray and were hope- 



Scenes on the Inland Sea, 



103 




the inland sea. 




A BIT OF NATURE. 



104 Nagasaki. 

lessly lost amid the conical islands, grotesquely formed hills, 
bluffs, inlets and headlands. With these all around us and 
no outlet visible, I was often surprised at the pilot's finding a 
hidden way out. I understood from one of the craft that 
special pilots have to be employed to guide the ships through 
the Inland Sea. 

We floated on, glad to be in the midst of so much beauty 
and hoping that the ship would " slow down " to let us enjoy 
what seemed more like a lovely dream than a mundane 
reality. Little brown hamlets here and there upon the hill- 
sides and occasional huts upon the shore added the charm of 
human habitation. At night the changing scene was en- 
hanced in beauty by an atmosphere clear and exhilarating. 
The moon shown down in brightness, and turned the sea into 
one sheet of rippling silver. All was quiet. Those who spoke 
spoke in whispers, as all appeared to realize that they were 
in one of nature's sanctuaries and that the God Who made it 
was near and sought from us recognition of His goodness and 
His omnipotence. 

m\s the '"Hohenzollern" disengaged itself from the maze 
of islands, we turned towards the beautiful scenes we had 
left and in the sweet language of Japan said : " Sayonara 
(farewell), thou home of beauty." 

We reached famous and beautifully situated Nagasaki on 
Ash Wednesday morning about 7 o'clock. Hailing a sampan 
I was rowed ashore. The sampan is on the water what the 
jinrikisha is on land. I saw hundreds of them at Nagasaki. 
The ships all anchor some distance from shore. There is 
plenty of work for the sampans and for light freight and 
coal boats. Nagasaki is the coaling station for all passing 
steamers. It is a sight to witness the coaling of a large 
steamer at Nagasaki. From the coal scows alongside, lines 
are formed of men and women, boys and girls, and the coal is 
passed up the high sides of the ship^ in baskets that hold 



Nagasaki Harbor — Hunting a Church. 



105 



about half a bushel each. I was much interested in watching 
the process. As the ships are numerous the loading is going 
on continuously. 

After getting on shore I took a rickshaw. I told the 
man that I wanted to go to the Catholic Church. He started 
oif, but he had no idea of what I wanted. He did not inti- 




NAGASAKI HARBOR. 



mate that to me, as he wished to retain a customer. After 
some time we came to what appeared to me to be a saloon. 
The proprietor was evidently a European. To my question 
he replied in a French accent : " The church, yes, it up- 
stairs." I looked up at the half-story and said : "Is it pos- 
sible ?" I found that by "upstairs" he meant up the hill. 

Up the hill I went, and a big hill it was — some five hun- 
dred feet. When I got to the summit I saw no church. On 



106 Relics of the Martyrs. 

looking back over the city I thought I recognized a Catholic 
Church about a mile distant. Thinking that the Frenchman 
did not mean to deceive me, I kept on. In a few minutes I 
saw a church with a cross, about a half a mile away in another 
direction on a hill Avith a valley and a river intervening. After 
getting tangled in two or three blind alleys, I reached the 
church. Then I found that it was only about three blocks 
from where I had taken the rickshaw. 

The church proved to be the Cathedral. Pontifical ser- 
vices were just about to begin for the solemn blessing of the 
ashes. I was assigned to the altar of the Blessed Virgin. 
In the hands of the statue was a pair of beads. It looked 
rather ancient and worn. Father M. A. Salmon, the Vicar- 
General, afterwards told me that the Rosary was made of 
different parts that had been collected from various scat- 
tered families in which these relics had been preserved from 
the days of persecution — three hundred years before. 

On the right of the altar was an etching of the Blessed 
Virgin and St. Ann. This had been executed in Japan three 
centuries before. It had been sent to Pius IX. as a relic of 
those old days of suffering for the faith. He wrote an in- 
scription upon it and returned it, saying that the proper 
home for that picture was the land whence it came. 

I asked Father Salmon where the relics of the Martyrs 
had been found. He said that the relics had been found in 
the very church in which I had said Mass. Sure enough, the 
place where I stood was holy ground. 

I asked him if they knew the exact hill upon which the 
Martyrs had been crucified. He said that the records pointed 
out the place, and that a memorial church had been built upon 
the ground. I then found that the church I had seen from 
the summit was the structure. He said that it was in 
charge of native Japanese priests, and that they themselves, 
not being natives, were not permitted by the government to 



Nagasaki Cathedral — A Superstition. 



107 



dwell there, though they might visit the place during day- 
light. 

Taking a rickshaw I started for the holy hill. I overtook 
on the way the funeral of a British marine conducted with 
military pomp. The rickshaw man walked leisurely behind it 
for one quarter of a mile, so that I appeared to be one of the 
chief mourners. The self-satisfied air and slow gait of the 




NAGASAKI cathedral. 



rickshaw man may be accounted for by the following Japanese 
superstition : It is considered a good omen to meet or to 
overtake a funeral procession, but it is a very bad sign to be 
overtaken by a funeral. When a Japanese finds that he is 
about to be placed in this unfortunate position he will make 
a break for any place so as to avoid the very bad omen. 

I found the Japanese priests at home. They could not 
understand or talk English any more than I could converse 



108 The Holy Hill— The Pappenberg. 

in Japanese, so we had recourse to Latin, the universal lan- 
guage of the Church. The memorial structure is the finest 
and largest Catholic Church in Japan. It is of Gothic style. 
It is constructed of stone and brick and will accommodate 
about fifteen hundred people. The sanctuary is veiy large. 
There are six side altars. 

The priest and I ascended the long and high hill that was 
made sacred by the sufferings and blood of the twenty-six 
Japanese martyrs crucified upon it as upon another Calvary. 
I felt that I ought to remove my shoes, for the place where 
I stood was holy ground. I gave away to the inspiration of 
prayer: "Blessed are those who suflter persecution for justice 
sake." Looking down from that hill which had been saturated 
with the blood of Martyrs, I could not but think of how 
history repeats itself. The hillside and the bay had been lined 
with thousands on that eventful day. and after the terrible 
tragedy the persecutors went down congratulating themselves 
that with this crowning act of many previous cruelties Chris- 
tianity had been obliterated forever from Japan, Yet by my 
side stood one of the twenty-three native Japanese priests 
then in that diocese of Nagasaki, and around them clustered 
thirty-five thousand of their countrymen ready, if need be, to 
emulate, with God's help, the example of the twenty-six who 
crowned that hill with glory to themselves and to their faith. 
True, indeed, it is that " the blood of Martyrs is the seed of 
Christians." 

We have the office of the Japanese Martyrs on the 5th of 
February. But Japan has many more martyrs interceeding 
for her conversion than the twenty-six of that festival. 

At the entrance of the harbor of Nagasaki is a very high 
precipice named the "Pappenberg." In 1673 thousands of 
Christians were thrown from its perpendicular face to mar- 
tyrdom because they would not apostatize. They were given 
the alternative to trample on the crucifix and upon the 



The Martyrs of Japan. 109 

sacred images or to be hurled to death on the rocks below. 
We know which they gladly accepted. 

At Tokio in the Royal Museum I saw the crucifixes and 
images that they had refused to desecrate. Those crucifixes 
and medals of the Blessed Virgin, Rosaries, etc., are there as 
they were in the days of trial, fitted into blocks of wood. 
Some of the crucifixes are twisted, burnt and disfigured. I 
rejoiced that the government has preserved these emblems 
as an. object lesson of the heroism of the Christians of those 
far-ofl^ days. 

Not far from Nagasaki is the village of Mogi, where 
thirty-seven thousand Christians were put to death. 

When it was supposed that the Christian religion had 
been exterminated, all foreigners, except the Dutch, were 
expelled from Japan. The Dutch were permitted to occupy 
a small plot of ground, Deshima, at Nagasaki. In 1647 two 
Portuguese men-of-war came to Nagasaki seeking to share 
the trade of the country with the Dutch. But when the 
Japanese confronted them with an army of fifty thousand 
men and a fleet of six hundred ships, the Portuguese sailed 
out of the beautiful land-locked harbor of Nagasaki. 

Rt. Rev. J. Cousin was the venerable Bishop of Nagasaki. 
He had been in Japan for thirty-two years. Hence he is the 
patriarch of the Church of the Mikado's kingdom. 

Very Rev. M. A. Salmon had been in Japan twenty-nine 
years. Being sickly, it was not thought that he would live 
more than six months anywhere, so it was concluded that he 
might as well go to Japan. He was then well and active and 
very busy. He told me that as late as 1870 the Catholics 
were deported and scattered by the decree of the Japanese 
Government, but that in 1873 they were permitted to re- 
turn. 

A Preparatory College and Seminary are institutions at 
Nagasaki. The Brothers of Mary have a flourishing school 



110 Farewell to Japan. 

and were constructing one of the largest buildings on one of 
the highest hills of Nagasaki. 

The harbor of Nagasaki was full of warships from all 
nations. The " Concord " was the only one that carried the 
United States flag. I had seen it in the harbor of Yokohama. 
It was then, I understood, under sealed orders, steaming in 
the direction of Manila. It gave a good account of itself in 
the battle of Manila Bay. Little did I then suppose that 
trouble was brewing between the United States and Spain. 

Japan is an island of forests and flowers, the land of the 
chrysanthemum and the cherry blossom. It is a country of 
mountains and valleys and its islands are said to number four 
thousand. Fusiyama, with its snowy summit, kisses the sky 
and can be seen for many miles from the vicinity of Yoko- 
hama. I have referred to it before as the far-famed Sacred 
Mountain of Japan. 

All religions are now tolerated in Japan. Let us hope 
that the Catholic religion, the religion of the Cross, will soon 
illumine with Divine light the "Land of the Rising Sun." 

I now leave the land of little men and little women. The 
men average something over live feet, the women average 
four feet five inches. Most of the men go bareheaded, and 
I think all the women do. At least, I saw none with hat or 
bonnet, and I came across no millinery shop. Even if the 
women have no hats they have raven black hair, and with 
little black oblique eyes and puffy red cheeks, they appear to 
be pleasant and good-natured on all occasions. 

Every Japanese boy of seventeen years of age is expected 
to enter some branch of the army. After he becomes a man 
he must serve seven years as a soldier. The school-boys at 
recess are put through a military drill. 

The little men of Japan think they each weigh a ton since 
they polished ofl^ the warriors of the Celestial Kingdom, to- 
ward the shores of which I then steered my bark. 



Hong-Kong. Ill 



CHAPTER Xi; 

HONG-KONG — REDCOATS AT MASS — OFF FOR CANTON — THE 
SAMPANS — INCIDENTS OF A RAMBLE — IN A PAGODA — 
THE UNITED STATES CONSUL — RIVER LIFE — PUN- 
ISHMENTS — A COFFIN FACTORY — POLICEMEN. 

Nagasaki to Hong-Kong is eleven hundred miles. We 
passed through the Yellow Sea and the China Sea. As a gen- 
eral thing those waters are very rough and we experienced 
some of that kind of weather. Many ships have been lost on 
those seas. We passed a shipwrecked bark on February 23d. 
It had evidently been a coaster. The regular line of ocean 
steamers do not experience much real danger in battling with 
the waves there. However, they get tossed about at a rate 
that excites the fears of the passengers. The sunsets in 
these regions are splendid. It is hard to describe their 
magnificence. Never had we seen such an array of cloud and 
color. The vapory tissues of the sky reflected the rich but 
varying shades of opal, ruby, sapphire and turquoise blue, 
changing and interchanging, so as to make the scene most 
gorgeous. 

We arrived in Hong-Kong from Nagasaki on Sunday 
morning, February 27th. I immediately hastened away to 
see the Cathedral in order to celebrate Mass. Climbing the 
high hills on the curving roads I came to a church-like build- 
ing surmounted by a cross. This I felt sure was the place 
for me. The Chinese door-keeper kept me waiting some 
time.. Being somewhat tired I again summoned him, having 
in the meantime conceived some doubts as to the orthodoxy 
of the building named St. Paul's. The Chinaman told me: 
" She soon come." 



112 Redcoats at Mass. 

" Whom do you mean? " I asked. 

He said, "Miss Tamm, this church in charge of Miss 
Tamm." 

"Tamm?" said I, "I don't want to see her." 

After some more walking and inquiries I came to a 
church, through the open door of which I saw a number of 
redcoats. That, I thought, must be an Episcopal Church. 
But on looking around I perceived a grotto in the garden 
with a statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Then I felt at 
home. Entering the side door I perceived that the priest 
was in the pulpit. After his Mass, he said : " I wish I had 
seen you before I went into the pulpit ; the soldiers and the 
people like to hear a sermon from an English speaking 
priest. I am an Italian." I told him that the notice would 
have been very short, but that under the circumstances I 
would have been pleased to preach. 

The soldiers and mariners formed ranks outside and to 
the number of about two hundred and fifty marched away 
to the strains of music. I celebrated Mass then. The only 
person in the body of the church at that time was a devout 
Chinese. The Cathedral of Hong-Kong is a very fine stone 
structure of the Gothic style. 

After breakfast I took a look around the city. It is beau- 
tifully situated, and has a very large and fine harbor. The 
flags of all nations float from the masts of the shipping. All 
prominent nations are represented by men-of-war. Hong- 
Kong is an English possession, and has been for over half a 
century. The city cannot be properly judged by the view 
from the harbor. With a population of over two hundred 
thousand, only about ten thousand are Europeans or Ameri- 
cans. Yet the tonnage of this port is only exceeded by two 
or three other cities in the world. 

The level space does not extend back very far from the 
shore. High hills crowd the space and hence the business 



Hong-Kong. 



113 




MAIN STREET, HONG-KONG. 



part is very compact, and very stirring. Made ground was 
^eing formed quite extensively when I was there. 

The Bishop and some .of his clergy came down to the 
landing in the afternoon and took a tug to visit a French 
steamer that had just arrived from Europe. The arrival of 
a steamer from Europe is always an event in that far-off 



114 Off For Canton. 

country. It brings the mail, the news and is a connecting- 
link with those at home. 

I had resolved to visit Canton, as I wished to see a real 
Chinese city. Hong-Kong, is more English than Chinese, as 
it belongs to the English and they control it. I started one 
evening with Capt. T. Austin for the city of Canton, China. 
Upon the steamer were about four hundred Chinese. I was 
the only "foreign" passenger. I had read and heard much 
of Chinese pirates. The captain, to make me comfortable 
and to assure me, said that only the week before on one of 
the branches of the Canton River, pirates had robbed a 
steamer and all the passengers aboard. 

At 6 o'clock the next morning I was on deck getting my 
first glimpse of famous Canton. The river scenes surpassed 
my imagination, although I had read much about them. The 
sampan boats surrounded and captured our steamer before 
she came to anchor. A very peculiar feature is that the 
captains and scullers of the sampans are women. Barefooted 
and bareheaded, they bore down upon us and made fast and 
with surprising agility were soon aboard. I was captured 
and taken ashore before breakfast, as I wished to celebrate 
Mass. A Chinese woman rowed me to the shore with much 
skill and not a little volubility. She steered her sampan 
safely through the mass of ships and moving boats. 

To get through Canton a guide is necessary. I secured 
" Leap Chee, " or rather he secured me. He wanted a testi- 
monial in his book after we had *' done the town " and I 
wrote that " he speaks English — after a fashion." 

After getting inside the wall, the gates of which are 
opened at 6 a. m. and closed at 6 p. m.. Leap Chee brought 
me into what I thought was a very narrow alley. It was 
full of people, mostly men. What a bedlam! How they 
stared, and the younger portion followed open-mouthed after 
me. Four men could not walk abreast. I looked up to see 



Canton. 



115 



if we were within or without. I could just see the sky- 
through an opening that was now and then a foot wide. 
Just before entering this place Leap Chee asked: 

"Have you a gold watch?" 

I said: " Why do you ask ?" 

" Oh, many thieves, many bad men, he perhaps will take 
it." 











CANTON PROM THE RIVER. 

" No, I have not a gold watch. I have only a $3.00 time- 
piece, and no thief will get it." 

" Belly well," he said. 

I first thought that we had entered a narrow passage to 
a street. But I found that we were upon one of the princi- 
pal streets. All were alike. Leap Chee ordered chairs at 
my expense. I favored walking, but when I found that the 
passages were slippery and crowded, and that not much 
headway could be made afoot, I consented to getting the 



116 Incidents of a Chair Ride. 

chairs. Three coolies carried him. It took four to tote 
me. Then the fun began. The coolies kept up a continual 
cry of warning. Men in hundreds had to press themselves 
against the Myalls to make room as we went by. When we 
met other chairs, then came the tug-of-war. 

By waiting or by backing into doorways or by a tight 
squeeze we passed. Now and then I could hear the compli- 
mentary "fainquoi" (a foreign devil). A hiss came occasion- 
ally, and one grown boy puckered his lips to spit at me. I 
held up my fist and looked cross, so he desisted. If he had 
not, I probably would have hurt his feelings, but the action 
would have been imprudent, as the Chinese fairly swarmed 
about me. The noise, continued and incessant, was some- 
what like the loud cackling of a large flock of ducks sud- 
denly frightened at early morn. 

In one street we met a lot of soldiers in single file. They 
had hardly room to walk two abreast. After them came an 
officer on horseback, then somio men with gongs, followed by 
a chair containing a Mandarin. He was followed by other 
guards. Under the circumstances the Mandarin got quite 
near me. The horse the general rode was the only one I saw 
in Canton with its two million inhabitants. 

I got to the Cathedral too late to celebrate Mass. I met 
the Bishop. He invited me back to " tiflan," as the 1 o'clock 
meal is called. The Cathedral was a surprise to me. Gothic, 
spacious, all stone to the apexes of its two spires and capable 
of accommodating three thousand people, it overtops every- 
thing else in Canton, as the above cut shows. The church, 
the episcopal residence and seminary occupy a square. I 
understand that it was built from funds furnished by the 
Society for the Propagation of the Faith. I took a cup of 
coffee with the Bishop. 

Again we started to see and be seen. We made our way 
to the walls of the city. There on a high hill we ascended to 



In a Pagoda. 



117 



the top of the five-storied pagoda. We then got a fine view 
of the city. It looked as if it were covered with a con- 
tinuous roof. In the pagoda were several idols. The attend- 
ant handed me the visitor's book. The last entry the very 
day I was there, February 28, was Mr. and Mrs. Home, New 
York City. They probably had come in another steamer. 

After taking lunch I looked over the register. I saw the 
entries : L. W. Deshler, Columbus, 
Ohio, September 19, 1893; Julian 
Reynolds, Elmira, New York, 1893; 
■JohnC. Judge, of Chicago, III, had 
signed February 24, 1898. The 
whole world was represented be- 
tween the covers. I found there, 
under date of August 28, 1893, the 
following : 

" Two fools on pleasvire bent one day, 

The sights of Canton came to see, 
But devil a penny they had left to pay 
.\iid all they could get was a cup of 
tea. 

" H. J. Austin, London, 
" Hugh Lewis, Belfast. 
" Tired, hungry, worn out and sore." 

Wong Cho wrote: " This is the 
first time I have been here since 
my life." 

The following is part of an inscription dated August 23, 

1896: 

'.'But we must go 
Time is too strong 
And, will we or no, 
Drives us along. 
Now for the stairs. 
Awfully steep, 
Down to the chairs 
Coolies asleep. ' ' 




FLOWER PAGODA. 



118 The United States Consul — River Life. 



I called on the United States Consul, Mr. Edward Bedloe. 
He]was very kind and wished to know of what service he 
could be to me. Learning that I was going to Rome he 
showedjme a medal on his watch chain. It had been blessed 
by Pius IX. and he was very proud of it. 

Contemplating river life from the deck of the steamer 
" Hio Ting," opposite Canton, I was much interested in the 
kaleidoscopic panorama. The river is 
" Home Sweet Home " in the sampan 
boats to one hundred and twenty-five 
thousand people. The captain told me 
that one million people live there in 
the boats. But the captain is an " old 
salt," hence his story needs to be 
taken with much of saline ingredient. 
Instead of pulling on the oars the 
Cantonese stand and push on them, 
facing the prow of the boat as they 
do so. Observing a number of large 
stern- wheel boats but seeing no smoke- 
stacks I looked for the motive power. I found it was fur- 
nished by from fifteen to eighteen coolies, stripped to the 
waist, who worked a treadmill arrangement in the rear of the 
boats, on the principle of the trashing machine propelled by 
horses, boxed in and treading on rollers. Girls of nearly all 
ages were passing an apprenticeship in sampan management 
under their mothers' direction. Babies fastened to the backs 
of mothers or sisters as these manipulated the oars were a 
common sight. A peculiar shake and step supplied the cra- 
dle movement. In Japan I had frequently noticed the infants 
asleep on the backs of brothers and sisters as these played 
at hop-scotch. Though the heads bobbed up and down and 
fell from side to side the babies slept on, or did not whimper 
while awake. 




MR. edw. bedloe. 



The Execution Grounds. 



119 



I was reminded in Canton that the Church follows the 
Scriptural advice and makes herself " all things to all men," 
as I saw almost hidden under the Bishop's cassock quite a 
vigorous "pig-tail," although he was a Frenchman. He had 
just told me: "Here we are all Chinese." 




CHINESE PIRATES BEHEADED. 



We visited a Chinese weaving establishment. The work 
done is very fine and delicate. Ten cents was again de- 
manded before I was permitted to pass out. 

Knowing that some six thousand Chinese are beheaded 
every year I asked Leap Chee where the execution grounds 
were. He said as coolly as though he was talking of beeves : 
"They no kill to-day." I told him that I did not wish to 
witness an execution, but merely to see the place. In the 
prison I saw a number of criminals chained by their feet. I 



120 



Punishments. 



was let in free, but I had to pay to get out. I suppose such 
contributions are part of the turnkey's perquisites. I went 
to the prison to see what I might. I soon learned that I 
was an object of greater curiosity to the prisoners. Those 
who could, gathered around and chattered away at a great 
rate. 

Whenever I stepped into a shop I was sure to attract a 
crowd around the door. 

There are eighteen provinces in China. The governors 
and officials in each see to the enforcement of the laws. If 
a boy commits a crime he is not only punished himself, but 

his parents, his elder brothers 
and his teacher share in his pun- 
ishment for not having brought 
him up properly and for failing 
to teach him to observe the law. 
For small offences the guilty 
parties are compelled to wear 
about their necks a framework 
of heavy boards called a cangue 
(kang.) It weighs from twenty- 
five to ninety pounds. The 
wearer cannot lie down or reach 
so as to feed himself. Upon 
the cangue is written the na- 
ture of the offence committed so that as the culprit walks 
around passers-by may stop and read about the offence. 

Custom and religion give almost unlimited authority to 
the parents over their children. To strike a parent is death. 
Obedience to parents continues even after the child marries. 
I heard of a wealthy married Chinese who was invited to dine 
with the American Consul. He said that he thought he 
could accept but that he must first ask his parents. 

In our rounds the guide showed me a coffin-factory. The 




THE CANGUE. 



A Coffin Factory — Policemen. 121 

cost of a casket is $2 and up. It is cheap to live and die in 
China, but no Chinese wants to be an undertaker. Men have 
to be forced in a manner to handle the dead. In one place I 
saw two coffins having occupants. In almost every store 
and often before the doors, lights and sticks of incense were 
burning before shrines. A coffin is the most acceptable 
present a child can make to his parents. They keep it in 
the best room and exhibit it with evident pride to all their 
visitors as an evidence of filial love and reverence. 

Many lights and burning incense sticks were displayed in 
the temples. There also the beggars were lined up seeking 
alms. Story-tellers and fortune-tellers plied their trades 
within the gates. I was much interested, noticing the awed 
attention of the customers and the animation and myster- 
iousness of the readers of the future. The fortune-tellers 
appeared to be all men. Old women monopolize the trade in 
our country and their customers are of the same sex. 

The barber-shops were many and primitive, nearly all of 
them being on the curb or roadside. On high, round chairs 
or stools sat the victims. Judging from appearances this is 
the right word to designate the cuvstomers. Some of them 
held a hand glass; others held a pan to catch the falling- 
hair. The tonsorial artists, like the fraternity at home, 
appear to be very loquacious. 

Meeting a number of rather listless looking policemen, I 
asked the guide what salary they received. " Seven dollars a 
month," was the reply. This represents $3.50 of our money. 
What do "the finest" think of that pay? 

The policemen whom I met in Hong-Kong were tall, dark- 
faced and black-bearded Sikhs, natives of India, and trained 
there in the British army. They wear long coats and turbans 
of a bright red color. 

Who has not heard of the small feet of the Chinese 
women? Not many women are seen on the streets of the 



122 Small Feet. 

Chinese cities. The higher class keep, as a rule, within doors. 
The feet of the boat-women are of normal size. In passing 
a rather pretentious dwelling I saw two women whose feet 
were extremely small, in fact, to me they appeared deformed. 
The feet of a three-year-old-child are as large. They walked 
with apparent difficulty and it looked as though they would 
topple over if some one would cry "mice" in Chinese. 

The ladies in China do not bother the clerks in the silk 
stores — they do not go shopping. Since " Mahomet cannot 
go to the mountain, the mountain must go to Mahomet." 
The clerks bring their samples to the homes and there the 
ladies make their selection. 

Canton is not a clean city or a city of sweet smells. I 
saw in the center of the city a small pond thickly covered 
with a green scum. No wonder that the plagues cause such 
havoc in those dirty Eastern cities. 

Two days before I arrived there was a large fire in 
Canton. A custom officer told me that the water pipes are 
run on top of the houses. This does well enough until the 
house under the pipe gets afire. The heat and the falling 
building destroy the supply pipe and give the fire-fighters a 
rest. 



Sticklers For Etiquette. 123 



CHAPTER XII. 

SOME PECULIAR CUSTOMS — STICKLERS FOR ETIQUETTE — ART 

OF PRINTING — CHINESE SCHOOL BOYS — DUCK FARMERS — 

CATHOLICITY IN CHINA — EXAMINATION CELLS — THE 

GREAT WALL — COURTSHIP — HONG-KONG AGAIN. 

There are many curious customs in China. No Chinese 
gentleman would for the world ride in the same carriage 
with his wife ; etiquette does not permit it. 

The Chinese in meeting friends do not shake hands, each 
shakes his own hands in token of greeting. In the matter 
of canes the Chinese go on the principle that " a cane is a 
young man's weakness and an old man's strength." Hence 
old men alone carry canes. In entering a house the polite 
custom is to keep 'the hat on. 

Fashion, at least among the officials, is regulated from 
Peking. When a bulletin comes from the capital that " the 
Emperor has put on his summer hat," all the officials don 
summer attire irrespective of the temperature, which in 
Canton and in other places is often different from that in 
Peking. 

The office of "Viceroy of Canton" is a high position. 
The Chinese recognize the grades of dignity, and are sticklers 
for the observance of the etiquette of grades. In the office 
of the Viceroy there are three entrances ; a high and large 
door in the center and a smaller door on each side. The 
center door is opened only to a caller equal in dignity to the 
A-^iceroy. The foreign consuls had to enter the official resi- 
dence by the smaller doors. When they finally understood 
the reason they fell back on their own importance and pro- 
tested that it would be an insult to the dignity of the 



124 The Art of Printing. 

nations they represented should they enter by any other 
than the central door. They got such a curve on their own 
dignity that the centre door had to swing open for them. 
Going through the big door no doubt increased their import- 
ance in the eyes of the Chinese. 

This point of international etiquette kept 'business back 
for years. It entailed a large amount of correspondence and 
diplomacy. The Viceroy finally yielded. Now Mr. Bedloe, 
whom I met as the Consul of the United States, when he 
calls on the Viceroy of Canton, enters by the big middle 
door, " with its big brass knob." 

The consuls and foreign population at Canton live on a 
large and beautiful island " with all the comforts of home." 
I landed upon it. A large stone bridge connects it with the 
city. A guard stands at its iron gates. No Chinese is al- 
lowed to pass unless he is in the domestic or official service 
of some one on the island, and even then he must show a 
permit. 

Many may be surprised to learn that the Chinese had 
acquired the art of printing five hundred years before the 
Europeans discovered it. But they have not advanced much 
from the original rude wooden blocks. However, they print 
their laws, etc., and eight-tenths of the people can read and 
write. This fact ought to convince us that the Chinese are 
not so benighted as we imagine. 

There is not much play for the Chinese school boy. He 
begins at five years of age and goes to school seven days in 
the week and sticks to it nine hours a day. He is not al- 
lowed to mope. He studies every lesson by shouting it out 
at the top of his voice. The quiet boy gets the bamboo. 
No smart boy is kept back by a dull class — there is no class. 
When ready, each boy brings his book to the teacher, turns 
his back to the pedagogue, that he may gain no inkling, and 



Chinese School Boys. 



125 



recites his lesson. This method of training may account for 
the bedlam in the streets of Canton. 

It is different in Japan. There the boys and girls attend 
school. When the teacher wishes to call a class, he rises 
and bows to the pupils. The pupils rise and bow still lower 
and then enter the recitation room. They remain standing 
until the teacher bows. Thev then bow still lower and seat 





fe.Mt€ 






CHINESE BOYS. 



themselves. At the close of the lesson the teacher bows 
and they bow lower and pass out. Follow them. Y.ou will 
find them ranged in a line outside near the door. The 
teacher comes out and bows. The pupils bow lower and 
hurry away. Away to games? No. On the school grounds 
the boys are put through the manual of arms and military 
drill. I saw a number of schools in Japan where they were 
being taught the tactics. 



126 Duck Farmers — Catholicity in China. 

Along the rivers of China the traveler may observe duck 
farmers. At night he keeps the ducks in a shed, but lets 
them out early. He requires them to be back at a certain 
time. Requires? Yes, requires and insists on obedience. 
About sunset the ducks hurry to the shed. A stranger won- 
ders at their haste as they scramble over each other to get 
in. It is soon explained. The duck farmer is awaiting them 
with his long bamboo stick. This stick comes down on the 
back of the last duck in. The ducks are '' brought up " in 
the knowledge that "the devil" — the bamboo stick — "will 
take the hindmost." There is nothing slow about the ducks 
of China when it comes time to go home. 

Nearly all Chinese boats have a large eye painted on 
the bow. Captain Austin told me that he never saw one that 
hadn't. The Chinese give as a reason : " Him no eye, how 
him see? Him no see, how him go?" They evidently think 
that a blind boat would get lost. 

About one-fourth of the people of the world live in 
China. A conservative estimate places the population of the 
Empire at three hundred and ninety millions. Nearly all of 
these are pagans. The Catholic religion is making some 
progress. In China, including Tonquin, there are two mil- 
lions. A person might ask : " What are those among so 
many ? " It is true. Means are much needed to cany on 
the work. There are many earnest converts. One day at 
Ning-Po there came a Christian Chinese woman to the priest 
at 6 p. m. She said : " Father I wish to go to Confession 
and to receive Holy Communion." 

" You may go to Confession, but I am sorry to learn that 
you are so poorly instructed as not to know that you must 
be fasting to receive Holy Communion," he answered. 

She replied : " Father, I know that I must be fasting and 
I am ; my husband has prevented me all day from coming. 
He has now gone out. Please hear my Confession and give 



Tongues of the World. 



127 




128 Poverty a Science. 

me Holy Communion that I may get back before he returns." 
It was done. Many proud but cold children of the house- 
hold of Faith may have to give place to those called in the 
eleventh hour. 

The converts have great devotion to the Blessed Sacra- 
ment. I saw a number, perhaps a hundred, making a visit 
before the altar in the Canton Cathedral. In the church they 
kneel the whole time and often sing their prayers together. 
Most of the young men go to Confession every week. 

There is also great devotion to the Blessed Virgin. The 
girls in Catholic villages recite together the office of the 
Blessed Virgin daily. 

There is a law in the United States restricting or pre- 
venting the immigration of Chinese. From what I have seen 
of the habits and methods of living of the millions of pagan 
Chinese, the law is, to my mind, justified on the principle of 
self-preservation. The Chinese have reduced poverty to a 
science. They can live on ten cents a day. I would consider 
it a species of crime to open wide the doors and let these 
people come in vast waves to compete with our workingmen. 
We know the fable of the man who killed the goose that laid 
the golden eggs. Were our people compelled to live as do 
the Chinese, how quickly the manufacturers would find con- 
sumption reduced to its minimum and their markets gone. 
We do not know that the Chinese grieve very much over 
their exclusion. They are philosophical. One of their pro- 
verbs is: You cannot prevent the birds of sadness from 
flying over your head, but you may prevent them from 
stopping to build their nest in your hair. 

China has a very ancient history, a history which dates 
farther back than the foundation of Rome. They have a 
country that is immense, rich in minerals and fertile in its 
land. The people are very industrious, but to us, very pecu- 
liar in their habits and customs. Were they to admit modern 



Passenger Wheelbarrows. 



129 



machinery we wonder where the multitudes would get work. 
They oppose, and with some reason, the introduction of 
labor-saving machines. 

Wheelbarrows serve in place of the jinrikisha. Those 
kinds of passenger wheelbarrows are found in some large 
cities. Mule carts are used for rapid transit in some places. 



-^^^^ J'S 








THE PASSENGER .WHEELBARROW. 



There is plenty of "cash" but not much money. Coins 
with a hole punched in the center for the purpose of string- 
ing is called "cash." It takes one thousand of them to 
make one dollar. Mr. George Sevy, a friend of mine who 
was in China while I was there, told me that he had $50.00 
in "cash" to deposit. In order to get it taken to the bank 
he had to get a Chinese with a wheelbarrow, and then the 
coolie had a load. 



130 "Fresh Fish."— The Great Wall. 

I found that the Mexican silver dollar is much in use all 
through the Far East. Fares and tickets costing dollars 
really mean half-dollars in our money. Hence, travelers are 
sometimes led astray by the figures. SLome agencies in 
America will point to the "dollars" and not explain that 
Mexican dollars are meant. 

I noticed in Canton that "fresh fish" means "fresh fish," 
as the fish are kept alive. The market I saw was a good 
market with many kinds of meat, game and vegetables. The 
Chinese are very fond of pork. I saw many a roasted hog 
taken from the temples. 

Cats, dogs and rats have their sellers and buyers. I 
looked on the stock with interest but not with any craving 
appetite. The dried and skinned rats were fastened to the 
walls. When a dog is prepared, scalding water removes the 
hair and then it does not look unlike pork. A little fur is 
left on the end of the tail, especially if the canine was 
black, as black dogs and black cats are favorites on the bill 
of fare. 

Promotions to official positions in China are awarded on 
civil service principles. The candidates go one by one into 
little brick cells. They are first searched, to see that they 
do not carry books or notes. All begin at the sound of a 
gun. They remain therein for three days and nights and 
are watched by soldiers. Those who pass creditably are 
appointed to office. The one who gets the highest per- 
centage is honored in the whole land. It would be well 
for our government if it had such cells and fewer political 
" pulls." 

All have heard of the Great Wall of China. It is over 
twelve hundred miles long, about twenty-five feet wide and 
thirty feet high. On the wall that surrounds Canton I ob- 
served cannon placed at intervals. On examination I found 
them rusty, uncared for and containing more or less pebbles 



The Examination Cells — Courtship. 



131 



and stones. They did not impress me as very savage " dogs 
of war." 

There is not much time lost in China by company-keeping. 
There is no chance there for the dilatory young mian to 
increase gas bills and blight prospects by just calling and 
calling, and staying and staying, until the pater familias 




EXAMINATION CELLS. 



must wish he could drop him, with his timidity or imposi- 
tion, through a trap door into China. The Chinese girls 
are not courted. Marriages are arranged by the parents 
through professional match-makers. 

The Chinese do not kiss. They shake their own hands. 
In bowing to one another they bend nearly to the ground. 
They keep their hats on while making a call. The Chinese 
wear white as an emblem of mourning. When the days of 



132 The Stores— Water Babies. 

mourning are over they give a feast to their friends. In 
reading they begin at the back of the book, thus reversing 
our method. A play in a Chinese theatre is like a continued 
story, and is carried on during the day time. The natives 
are not fond of bathing — once or twice in a life-time " will 
be a plenty." They remind me of the man who said: "I 
take a bath once a year whether I need it or not." 

I wrote of the gambling of the Chinese while crossing the 
Pacific. I saw much of the vice in China. Cock fighting 
is common and quail fighting almost as common. In the 
United States, out West, men sometimes gamble on a chance 
that a fly will first light on their piece of sugar. In China 
men may be seen kneeling about little bowls watching 
intently and betting on the fighting qualities of two crickets 
or two spiders. They are urged on by being tickled with 
straws, and fight to the death. 

Department stores are not in vogue in China, but stores 
selling the same lines of goods are generally close together. 

Faint-hearted people may purchase ground tigers' bones 
to give them courage, and extracts of the flesh of rats to 
make their hair grow. 

The Chinese make china and perhaps they are the in- 
ventors of porcelain, as they produced the ware seventeen 
hundred years before the time of Christ. 

Visitors to Canton may sleep and board on the steamers. 
They are permitted to change from the night to the day 
boat, and vice-versa. 

Noticing children just able to crawl playing on the row- 
boats as they sped in and out among the shipping, I won- 
dered that they did not fall in and drown. I then found that 
small lines were tied about their waists, and little barrels 
strapped to their backs, so if they went overboard, they 
could easily be hauled back home. The barrels kept them 
afloat until help came. 



Long Finger Nails — Hong-Kong Again. 



13 




I was not a little astonished to notice in a bank a Chinese 
clerk who had finger nails longer than the fingers them- 
selves. I found that this custom is quite common among 
officials and professional men. Ladies sometimes put silver 
shields over their nails to prevent them from breaking. 

On the 1st of March, the month of St. Joseph, we got 
back to the city and island of Hong-Kong. This island is 
eleven miles long by 
from two to three 
miles wide. It is one 
of the greatest ports 
in the world. The 
English have given 
to the city the name 
of Victoria, but 
Hong-Kong holds its 
own. If you told a 
man to "go to Vic- 
toria " he would want an explanation, but if you told him to 
" go to Hong-Kong" he would quickly understand. 

In Cleveland an Irish street car conductor had some warm 
words with a passenger. Becoming exasperated at some in- 
sulting remarks the young Irishman told the passenger to 
"go to h — ." The passenger reported him and he was laid 
oAl. After waiting a week the conductor sought work. He 
was a good man and the company did not wish to lose him, so 
he was told that if he apologized to the offended passenger 
he might get his position back. The conductor then went 
to the office of the offended man and opening the door he 
said. "Do you remember where I told you to go last week? " 

" Yes." 

"Well, I've come to tell you you needn't go." On report- 
ing that he had properly apologized, he got his punch back. 

The hills about Hong-Kong's beautiful harbor vary in 



LONG finger nails. 



134 The Plague in India. 

height up to four thousand feet. More than sixty thousand 
ships and junks visit it every year from all parts of the 
globe. Most of the steamers that cross the Pacific from 
America end their voyage at Hong-Kong. This island is 
ruled by a Governor sent out from England. I saw his pew 
in the Catholic Church. 

I found that the plague was raging in India. I had in- 
tended to sail for Calcutta, but not wishing to be quaran- 
tined for weeks or months, I had to go by the way of Sing- 
apore to the island of Ceylon, on the " Chalydora," a large 
steamer, one of six used in the opium trade. Each carries a 
cargo of opium worth $800,000. Had I known a few hours 
sooner concerning the plague in India, I could have taken 
passage on the fast German mail steamer, the " Sachsen.'' 
I had the disappointment of seeing her steaming out of the 
bay as I learned of the plague in India. 



Hong-Kong to Singapore. 135 



CHAPTER XHI. 

HONG-KONG TO SINGAPORE — HALF WAY AROUND THE GLOBE — 
SINGAPORE HARBOR — ADVANTAGES AND DISADVAN- 
TAGES OF LIFE IN SINGAPORE — MALAY 
DIVERS — PENANG — ITS PEOPLE. 

Having " done " Hong Kong, I looked about for a steamer 
for Singapore. I found that the "Chalydora," Captain John 
Davis, was to leave at 3 p. m. that same day. At the office 
I secured a ticket for a " first class passage." In that de- 
partment I found plenty of room. I had the entire first class 
to myself. There was no " second class," but there was a 
Chinese class. There were six hundred of them on board in 
the steerage, bound for Singapore and Penang. Just before 
taking passage I had learned that the small-pox was raging 
in Hong-Kong. Captain Davis, speaking of the Chinese,' 
said : "I hope none of the beggars will take the small-pox 
before we reach Singapore." My amen was fervent. I daily 
inquired with much solicitude about the health of my fellow 
passengers in the Chinese department. I took a look at the 
Chinese every day ; I could see them quite easily by walk- 
ing out on the bridge. Being the only white passenger on 
board for six days with the six hundred Chinese, I had plenty 
of time for reading and contemplation and the study of 
the Chinese and of the Chinese language. 

Prom Hong-Kong to Singapore is one thousand four hun- 
dred and forty miles. From Singapore to the Island of Cey- 
lon is one thousand five hundred and fifty miles. 

Speaking to Captain Davis, who, by the way, was a native 
of Wales, and only thirty-one years of age, of the cheap 
rates for Chinese from Canton to Hong-Kong, he said : '' We 



136 Half Way Around the Globe. 

carry them and board them to Singapore for $6.00." My 
ticket cost me $50.00. But this money was Mexican, or one- 
half in our money. To be boarded for nearly six days and to 
be carried one thousand four hundred and forty miles for 
$3.00 sweeps the deck for bargains. 

Half way around ! Singapore, as I make it out, is just 
half way round the world from Cleveland. The Forest City 
is just beneath on the opposite side of the globe. I could 
hardly realize that physical fact. I then knew that each 
advance was getting me nearer home. I was no longer like 
the wanderer mentioned by Goldsmith, 

" Drawing at each step a lengthening chain." 

The chain was getting shorter. How^ever, I do not wish 
it to be understood that I was not enjoying my strange ex- 
perience in foreign lands and among foreign peoples. Had 
some friend been with me, no doubt I would have enjoyed it 
more. However, I can talk to myself without as much con- 
ceit as had a certain man addicted to that habit. Someone 
asked him why he talked to himself so much. " For two 
good reasons," said he ; ''I like to hear a sensible man talk ; 
and I like to talk to a sensible man." 

We entered the picturesque harbor of Singapore early in 
the morning. We were at the opening of the Malacca 
Straits and only about sixty miles from the Equator. The 
Island of Singapore is about thirty miles long and about 
fifteen miles across. The nature of the merchandise piled on 
the docks indicated the products of the island. From Singa- 
pore are shipped tapioca, gambia, cocoanut oil, tin, indigo, 
coral, gutta-percha, tiger skins, camphor gum, etc. I re- 
member very well in passing through the large varnish 
factory of the Glidden Varnish Co., in Cleveland, to have 
seen a great variety of gums used in the manufacture of fine 
varnishes. Mr. F. H. Glidden explained that much of their 



Singapore Harbor. 137 

gums came from Singapore. Little did I then think that I 
would ever see Singapore. 

Balmy were the days and bright the beautiful moonlight 
nights in those tropical climes. One is tempted there to stay 
on deck all night. Light white clothing constitutes the be- 
coming suits of the officers on deck and the well-to-do on 
land. Much less is sufficient for the " coolies." 

Singapore has a fine harbor, and was full of ships from 
all nations. A number of men-of-war were at anchor. An 
Italian man-of-war arrived while we were waiting for the 
health officer. The usual salutes were fired and returned. 

With wise forethought the English purchased Singapore 
from the Sultan of Johore in 1819. It is an important port 
between the Far East, Calcutta and England. The city is 
divided into the European, Chinese and Malay quarters. It is 
strongly fortified. England has guarded her way by a line, 
of possessions and fortifications from London to the Far 
East. Consider her strongly fortified outposts, Gibraltar, 
Malta, Aden, Ceylon, Penang, Singapore, Hong-Kong. When 
war threatened lately in China the question was asked: 
"Where would the German men-of-war get fuel, since the 
above islands are in possession of the British ? " A ship 
that burns from one hundred to four hundred tons of coal 
per day must have supply stations not too far apart. 

The Malay Archipelago may be said to embrace the 
Islands of Singapore, Penang, Borneo, Sumatra and Java. 
The Philippine Islands, some four hundred in number, may be 
said to constitute the Northern part of the Archipelago. 
We were not very far from these islands on our way 
from Hong-Kong to Singapore. Had I known then how im- 
portant a part they would play in American history in the 
war that began in less than two months after my visit to 
Singapore, I certainly would have gone to the Philippines. 

When I wished to go ashore Captain Davis said that the 



138 Advantages and Disadvantages. 

regulations permitted no one to land until the health officer 
had cleared the ship. I had to wait until that important 
official came aboard. The captain said, in the meantime, 
speaking of the Chinese : "I hope the beggars will all pass." 
It would be bad to be on board a quarantined ship. The 
health officer and his assistants came out in their steam 
launch at 8 o'clock. In single file the Chinese passed and 
repassed for examination. One poor fellow was set aside 
for "the island." The health officer made no examination and 
asked no questions of the only passenger in the " first class." 

The center of the city of Singapore is about three miles 
from the steamboat landing. I was driven there behind a 
little pony on a road that was as level and as smooth as a 
floor. The driver, a Malay, sat on the shaft. We passed a 
number of his countrymen in airy costume working on the 
-road-bed. Their ebony skin glistened in the sun. They are 
a fine looking lot of people, but as slow moving as we find 
them in the tropics. We passed many Chinese and many 
Chinese shops. I found in a number of banks and offices the 
Chinese acting as clerks and in responsible positions. It ap- 
pears that they are very capable and many of them are quite 
wealthy. 

On the streets I noticed a number of small white hump- 
backed oxen driven single or double at a good trot, or pull- 
ing large loads. 

Singapore is a very healthy place. There is a perpetual 
Spring with an unvarying temperature. The sun rises and 
sets at 6 o'clock the whole year. It does not vary five 
minutes. However, there are some drawbacks to the floral 
beauty and spice-laden air. There are a number of danger- 
ous snakes, scorpions, mammoth spiders, lizards and savage 
tigers. Tigers are said to devour about three hundred of the 
people annually. They often swim over from the mainland 
for their victims. A beautiful botanical garden containing 



Money and Steamer. 139 

a very fine aviary is located a couple of miles from the town. 
Money has a greater purchasing power than with us. While 
laborers on the docks get only fifteen cents a day, those 
inland get less; but they can go into the jungle and get a 
dinner of fruit at any time. When I went to the steamboat 
office to purchase a ticket for Ceylon the agent did not 
know the value of American money. He sent a Chinese 
clerk out with me to ascertain its market price. He took 
me to a little shop and explained matters to the Malay in 
charge. This swarthy son made a gesture for me to hand 
out the money. Instead of doing so I said to the Chinese 
clerk: "You come on to the bank, I will not deal here." 
Then the Malay showed a very fine set of teeth. He was 
evidently displeased. At this bank for a $40.00 American 
Express Co.'s check I got $86.10 in the money of the country 
good at the ticket office. 

I was very much surprised when the steamship agent 
told me that there was no room on the " Sachsen," the Ger- 
man mail steamer. This was the steamer which I nearly 
caught in Hong-Kong. On account of its delay in Singapore 
I overtook it. When I found that there was no room in the 
first cabin. I managed with difficulty to get a berth in the 
second cabin. There were two others in the state-room. 
That night while the others were on deck, I took "the lowest 
place." When they came in I. did not pretend to understand 
German, so I did not have to go up higher. 

While the " Sachsen " was pulling in her lines for depart- 
ure, a fine large French mail steamer from Europe came 
alongside and prepared to make fast to the next mooring. 
The decks were crowded with passengers. Among them I 
noticed wearing their cassocks a Bishop and a number of 
priests, and also six or eight Sisters of Charity — " The Coro- 
nets." No doubt they had come to supply some wants of 



-140 Malay Divers— Fish. 

the missionary land. I think that they were all bound for 
China. 

While in the harbor of Singapore the steamer was sur- 
rounded by Malays ranging in age from six to thirty years. 
They darted hither and thither in their small canoes seeking 
to entice passengers to throw coin into the sea. Then down 
they would dive and often get the coin before reaching bot- 
tom. But sometimes they were so long under water that 
they must have had to go to the depths. No coin appeared 
to escape them. It was a mystery to me to know how they 
got into their narrow canoes without capsizing them. 

Those southern seas are full of life. Porpoises often 
come to the surface, and flying-fish are numerous. Some- 
times they are attracted at night by the lights and fly on to 
the deck. One night one flew into the state-room. The 
wings fold so closely to the body that a person without ex- 
amination would suppose it to be an ordinary fish. One 
scientist has secured and classified over five hundred distinct 
species of fishes from this division of the Indian Ocean. 
Some are as gay in color and as various as the tropical birds 
and flowers. 

There was a fine ship's band on board the "Sachsen.'' It 
played often. The decks at night were cleared for the dance. 
People's tastes differ. A wealthy representative Chinese said, 
after looking on at a dance : '' I don't see why those people 
do not hire others to do that hard work for them." Some of 
these on board appeared to enjoy "the hard work" and 
plenty of it. All classes of people representing diflferent 
nations were aboard the steamer. Most of them were Eng- 
lish and Germans on their way home after a long stay in 
foreign lands. 

The Island of Penang is three hundred and seventy-six 
miles from Singapore. It resembles Singapore very much in 
people, climate and products. The island is about thirteen 



Penang — Its People. 141 

miles long and ten miles wide. Neither Penang nor Singa- 
pore is troubled with malarial fevers. Perhaps no places on 
earth are better adapted to the corporal wants of primitive 
man. The people are very fond of ornament. Men and 
women pierce their ears, noses and lips for the purpose of 
wearing therein brass, silver or gold rings. They also cover 
their arms and ankles with metallic rings. 

Captain Francis Light received Penang in 1786 as a mar- 
riage portion with his dusky bride from the King, her father. 
He afterwards transferred it to the East India Company. 

I planned to reach Jerusalem in time for Holy Week. 
That sacred place is about four thousand miles from the is- 
land of Ceylon. Hence I was then almost as far from the 
Holy City as though I had not left home. 



142 Colombo, Ceylon, 



CHAPTER XIV. 

COLOMBO, CEYLON — LITTLE SISTERS OF THE POOR — THEIR 
HOME — CATHOLICITY IN CEYLON — VICTIM OF PREJU- 
DICE — MATERIAL PROSPERITY — KANDY — 
ELEPHANTS — AN IDEAL PLACE. 

Bright and early on Saturday morning, March 12, the 
steamer "Sachsen" steamed into the spacious harbor of Co- 
lombo, Ceylon. The flags of nearly all nations were repre- 
sented in the emblems that floated from the mast heads of 
the many vessels at anchor. The American citizen in a tour 
around the world is seldom cheered by the sight of the Stars 
and Stripes. If I am not mistaken, I think the absence of the 
flag is due in a great measure to the restrictions placed on 
trade by a high protective tariff. Even patriotic Americans 
of means are inclined to save money by getting their ships 
built in a free trade country, though they must sail them 
under foreign flags. However, I do not intend to enter into 
a disquisition on the relative merits of free trade and pro- 
tective policies as effecting national commerce and pros- 
perity. After the years of political discussion on the subject 
the American people ought to be thoroughly posted on the 
question. I merely wish to call attention to an undeniable 
fact — the absence of the American flag on the highways of 
commerce. 

Colombo on the island of Ceylon is about thirteen hun- 
dred miles from Penang and fifteen hundred and sixty- six 
from Singapore. Our steamer made from three hundred 
and twenty-five to three hundred and fifty miles in the twen- 
ty-four hours. Colombo is a port of call for ships from 
Australia, China and part of India. This fact accounts for 



Landing at Colombo. 



143 



the large number of ships and fine steamers in the spacious 
harbor. 

Very soon after our arrival in the harbor we were sur- 
rounded by the natives in their peculiar canoes. These are 
long and very narrow, being simply the trunk of a tree 
hollowed out. To prevent them from rolling over they are 
balanced by a long heavy log, pointed at both ends, floating 




LANDING AT COLOMBO. 



alongside at a distance of ten feet and attached to the 
canoes by two strong bamboos tied on at right angles. 

The steamer anchored about one-third of a mile out from 
the shore. To get to the landing we had to take boats. I 
was the first ofl^. Once in the canoe there was no room to 
turn around. I was wedged in, so narrow was the space. 
The natives soon brought me to the landing for twenty-five 
cents. On getting ashore I was confrontedlby the following 
sign in large letters : " Beware of Sunstroke ! Remember 



144 Little Sisters of the Poor. 

the fate of poor Hardy and others. Use your umbrellas." 
Fortunately I had mine with me. I found the necessity of it 
before the day was far advanced. The thermometer ranges 
at Colombo from 78° to 96°, but the heat to a stranger is 
very oppressive. 

I got a guide and one of the many conveyances at the 
landing. I immediately directed the guide to have me 
taken to the "Little Sisters of the Poor" on Darley Road. 
We arrived at the " Home for the Aged " in about fifteen 
minutes. I found the institution beautifully situated on the 
edge of an arm of the sea. The old gate-keeper let us 
into the beautiful grounds, embracing ten acres. I found 
the buildings spacious and airy and v/ell adapted for the 
warm climate. On showing my letter of introduction from 
the "Good Mother" in Cleveland, I received a very cordial 
welcome. Preparations were quickly made and very soon 
after my arrival I had the happiness of celebrating the Holy 
Sacrifice of the Mass. 

During breakfast I had the pleasure of meeting the nine 
Sisters of the community. Their names were Sisters Stanis- 
laus of St. Augustine, Hortense of bon Pasteur, Arsine of 
the Seven Dolors, Sister of St. Augustine, Mary William of 
the Sacred Heart, and Veronica of All Saints. One of the 
Sisters was from Troy, New York. Her brother, Father 
Hayden, then at The University at Washington, D. C, was 
ordained at Albany, September, 1897. The Sisters had one 
hundred and twenty-two old people in the Home. Passing 
through the house I found that all the inmates were natives. 
Some were blind, others were paralyzed, and all in need. 
They go in as pagans, but nearly all die in the faith. Some 
thirty-two were baptized during the previous year. Such a 
charity is a puzzle to the natives. At first the Sisters were 
looked upon with suspicion, but now they are much esteemed 
for their noble work. However, the natives understand little 



St. Joseph's College. 145 

of charity. A handful of rice is their usual contribution. 
Were it not for the generosity of the Europeans residing in 
Colombo, and those passing through on ships, the Sisters 
could not continue their good work. The week before my 
arrival Prince Henry of Germany stopped there on his way to 
China. He contributed to the Sisters £50, or $250.00. The 
Sisters realized that they had received a princely gift. 

Next to the Sisters' Home is St. -Joseph's College and St. 
Charles' School, conducted by "The Oblates of Mary Im- 
maculate." The pupils numbered five hundred. The grounds 
were very well kept, and embraced ten acres. A large new 
brick building, four stories high, was being added to the 
group. I met several of the Fathers. One of them was 
Father John Lanigan. I told him that his name reminded 
me of home, as there were some of that name in my parish. 
He hailed from Ireland. Passing through the college I 
noticed on the marble tablet among the list of benefactors 
the names of Mr. and Mrs. F. McMahon, Limerick, Ireland. 
Strange to say, months afterwards, I met those same people 
in Limerick. 

The pupils graduate with honors equivalent to the Lon- 
don B. A. On leaving the grounds I witnessed a match game 
of cricket. Quite a number of spectators were present. 

xlf ter driving about and around the town I made a call on 
the priests of St. Philip Neri. I found Father Wilkinson, of 
Tipperary County, and Father Burke in charge. They were 
fine specimens of physical manhood. The church was a very 
beautiful structure and was situated on the bank of a small 
lake — an ideal location. To that church the Catholic soldiers 
of the British army stationed there march on Sundays to 
the strains of the military band. There was a Soldiers' 
Catholic Club with a large membership. That club and the 
other Catholic soldiers were to attend High Mass on the 
Feast of St. Patrick and have jcharge of the evenino-'s enter- 



146 Catholicity in Ceylon. 

tainment. I was invited to remain for the celebration but I 
had not time to stay that long. I considered it quite novel 
that soldiers of the British army would in that far-off land 
be found celebrating the Feast of Ireland's patron Saint. 
How times have changed ! Not long ago the Irish soldiers 
in the British army wearing shamrocks subjected themselves 
to court-martial. Now they are entitled by Victoria's order 

to wear the 

' ' Chosen leaf 

Of bard and chief, 

Old Erin's native shamrock." 

Inquiring about Catholic matters from Father Wilkinson 
I received the following information: There were in the city 
of Colombo nineteen Catholic churches. The Archbishop re- 
sides there. There were then thirty-six thousand Catholics 
in the city. The Catholic population on the Island of Ceylon 
was three hundred thousand. The total population of the 
island, including pagans, was three millions. The Catholic 
population was increasing at the rate of four thousand per 
annum. This does not include immigration, which is very 
light. The entire Protestant population of the island is 
thirty-nine thousand. In the one diocese of Ceylon there are 
three hundred and thirteen Catholic schools. The schools 
are helped by government aid in proportion to attendance 
and results. Of the Catholic population, one in six attend 
school, but only one in twenty-one of the general population. 
All male teachers must pass an examination before being 
permitted to teach. Among the religious orders who teach 
are the Good Shepherds, the Franciscan Nuns, and the Nuns 
of the Holy Family. I met some of the Good Shepherd 
Sisters — one of them from Limerick. 

There is a good Catholic newspaper published there, 
" The Ceylon Catholic Messenger." It is a bi-weekly. The 
Archbishop and the priests take great interest in it, recog- 



Natives— A Victim op Prejudice. 147 

nizing the fact that "a good Catholic newspayjer is a con- 
tinual mission in a parish." As far as I can recall there is no 
bi-weekly Catholic newspaper in English published in the 
United States. The number of our Catholic people and the 
interests of religion should support a strong Catholic press, 
and finally lead to a religious daily paper alert to defend 
Catholic doctrine and meet without delay misrepresentations 
and calumnies. 




NATIVES. 

In Colombo I found a victim of prejudice in the person of 
Father O'Doherty, of Australia. He was a vigorous cham- 
pion of Catholic truth there, both in the press and pulpit. 
He had taken passage under the auspices of Cook & Son for 
a trip to Ireland, his native land, from whichlhelhad been ab- 
sent six years. He sailed on a British & India steamer 
under Captain Simmons. On the trip it was stated that he 



148 Characteristics of Ceylon. 

was subjected to persecution and insult by the captain on 
account of his religion. Father O'Doherty left the steamer 
at Colombo, and wrote a statement and strong protest to the 
B. & I. Company against Captain Simmons. He demanded 
an investigation. If Captain Simmons was not removed or 
severely reprimanded on the substantiation of the charges, 
the B. & I. line should get little patronage from Catholics. 
Such uncalled-for bigotry demands a proper rebuke. Father 
O'Doherty, I was told, also demanded a return of his money 
from Thomas Cook & Sons. 

The streets of Colombo are smooth and hard. There is 
evidently a mixture of iron ore in their composition. A 
government engineer told me that there are some four 
thousand miles of good roads on the island, and the rivers 
are crossed by fine iron bridges. 

Most of the native men and women whom I met w^ere 
bare-headed. The men have glossy, long, black hair held 
back from the face by a semi-circular comb. The women, as 
a rule, fasten their hair back with silver pins. All the 
people appear to have brown eyes. 

On the streets and roads the traveler is attracted by the 
pretty little bullocks with humped necks and silky hides har- 
nessed to both small and large carts. Instead of bridles, 
they are guided by ropes passed through their nostrils. We 
marveled at the loads some pull and at the speed others 
exhibited as they trotted along. The drivers of the bullocks 
which pull the heavy loads carry no whips. However, they 
are not as kind as appearances would indicate, as they urge 
the animals on by a violent twist of the tail. 

Ceylon is famous for its cinnamon, its spices and its tea. 
An Englishman told me that the planters raise from four 
hundred to one thousand pounds of tea on each acre. This 
tea sells in Colombo by the wholesale for from twenty-six to 
twenty-eight cents a pound. It requires the services of one 



Scenes in Ceylon. 



149 




ROAD TO KANDY. 




A SCENE IN KANDY. 



150 Kandy, the Ancient Capital. 

native for each acre or for each acre and a half. But wages 
are small. Father Wilkinson told me that one of the largest 
planters of the island was Patrick McMahon. Rev. Father 
O'Doherty went to spend some days with him on his plan- 
tation. 

The Island of Ceylon is about three hundred miles long 
and about one hundred and thirty-five miles wide. A gov- 
ernment railroad makes communication quite easy. It runs 
from Colombo to and beyond Kandy. Kandy is the ancient 
capital of the island. It is seventy-five miles from Colombo. 
A Bishop resides there, and also the Apostolic Delegate for 
India and Ceylon. Kandy is six thousand feet above the level 
of the sea. The scenery along the railway is very fine. The 
traveler passes through large rice fields and tea plantations. 
A so-called tooth of Buddha is preserved with great care in 
the Temple of Kandy. It is said that the King of Siam's 
offer of $500,000 was refused for the tooth. It is an ivory 
fang about three inches long. It is exhibited on rare occa- 
sions, and then with imposing ceremonies. 

The railway continues to climb until it reaches six thou- 
sand feet above the sea. The tea does not grow on the 
plains, but on the highlands of Ceylon. I asked the govern- 
ment railway engineer if the railway was a paying invest- 
ment. He told me that it is probably the best paying 
railway in the world. I was rather surprised by this 
information. Some places the railway is so steep that two 
engines are required to move a train of three cars. Fares 
are about the same as" those in India, viz : first class, one 
penny ; second class, one half-penny ; third class, one-sixth 
of a penny, a mile. 

The Island of Ceylon has always been noted for its 
elephants. In the interior they roam in herds. While their 
food is various, they have an especial liking for rice. In a 
single night they have often devastated vast plantations. 



Elephants. 



151 



But the slightest fence will keep them out. They conld 
easily demolish the frail bamboo protection by a slight blow 
of the trunk or by their feet, but, strange to say they, never 
attempt to do so. They are not so numerous as they once 
were, as too many sportsmen have killed them off. Now 
there is a large fine imposed for killing a wild elephant. 




ELEPHANT PILING STONES. 



The Ceylon elephants are easily trained. I was told of 
one owned by a physician that followed him about like a dog. 
One day in passing through the camp hospital the doctor 
administered a pill to a Malay soldier. The soldier dropped 
the pill. " Jack," the elephant, quickly picked it up, inserted 
it into the man's open mouth and with a puff blew the pill 
safely home. " Jack " also learned to go hunting with his 
master, acting the part of both stalking-horse and retriever. 



152 An Ideal Place. 

Elephants are often employed to shift logs and pile lum- 
ber in the saw-mill yards. They exhibit great skill and 
intelligence in this work. I was told that from among their 
own number they select a " boss." But when quitting time 
comes, without command or " by your leave" they " knock- 
off " an once and stalk off to the feeding ground. 

An elephant is as fearful of a mouse as a woman is. He 
fears that it will run up his trunk. The elephant is a power 
as a stump puller and land clearer. He is trained to pull a 
plow and it matters little how deep it cuts into the soil. 
They swim rivers and climb hills and sometimes, if the hill 
be very steep, they squat and slide to the bottom. 

Ceylon is an ideal place. No wonder that some claim 
that the Garden of Paradise was in this vicinity. Here they 
point out " Adam's Peak " and " Adam's Foot-prints." How- 
ever, it would appear to me that the climate would have an 
enervating effect after a long residence. 

Colombo has many fine public and semi-public buildings. 
The fact that Ceylon is an English possession is ever kept 
before the people by the presence of the symbols of her 
power in the English officials and in the representatives of 
her army and navy. I was not in Colombo five minutes 
before I met a military company, fully armed, out on a 
march at 7 a. m. 



Buying a Ticket. 15^ 



CHAPTER XV. 

FROM COLOMBO TO ADEN — REMINISCENCES — THE CHIEF SEA- 
PORT OF ARABIA — ACROSS THE RED SEA — SUICIDE 
ON BOARD SHIP — THROUGH THE SUEZ 
CANAL — ISMALIA TO CAIRO. 

An " aroimd-the-world " traveler meets with some strange 
experiences in the line of the prices of tickets. A thousand, 
or two or three thousand miles does not count for much in 
the aggregate of cost in the Far East. Though Yoko- 
hama is some eighteen hundred miles farther from Europe 
than Hong-Kong, there is little difference in the cost. 
Hong-Kong is nearly fifteen hundred miles away from Singa- 
pore, yet the through passenger from Hong-Kong has to pay 
only $10 more than the traveler from Singapore. Australia 
is about seven thousand miles farther from London than is 
Colombo, yet the price of tickets is the same to both places. 
The cheapest method is to buy a through ticket from Yoko- 
hama with stop-over privileges. Yet by stopping over, the 
passenger must wait for a steamer of the same line and have 
additional hotel expenses. However, with plenty of time 
this is the better way. The "traveler needs no "agency's" 
help, at least as far as Palestine. 

When I went to purchase my ticket from Colombo to 
Ismalia I was told that the price was " three hundred ru- 
pees." I said to the agent. "I prefer to pay in marks." 

■'Marks? Our money here is in rupees." 

" Yes, but you also have a scale in marks." 

"Where?" 

" In that book behind you." 

He looked at it and said: "But it is cheaper in marks." 



154 Native Honesty? 

" That is the reason I wish to pay in marks." 

After a consultation I paid in "marks" and saved $13.00 
in our money. It is twice as far from Colombo to London 
as it is from Colombo to Ismalia yet a ticket to London costs 
only four hundred rupees — one hundred more than to Ismalia. 

I noticed some peculiar examples of " English as she is 
spoke" especially in Japan. In Tokio there is a laundry 
sign: "We will wash our customers. We wash gentlemen, 
$3.00 a hundred. We wash ladies, $3.00 a half hundred." 
At Osaka, a jeweler's sign read : "Watch A Store," for "A 
Watch Store." 

I had intended to remain two days longer in Colombo and 
take passage on the steamer "China." It was fortunate 
that I changed my mind almost at the last minute, as the 
"China" was shipwrecked after leaving Colombo on the 
rocks at Aden. It was a total loss. However, most of the 
passengers were saved, but all baggage was lost and for 
some days the passengers was subject to much suffering 
from exposure on the rocks. 

The natives throughout the East look very innocent, but 
they are full of guile. They like to cheat " the big-fool 
steamboat gentlemen " when they can. Ceylon is noted for 
its native gems and jewels. But it is not safe for the 
" steamboat gentlemen " to invest unless they are experts. 
Some have found that instead of native gems they had in- 
vested in spurious imitations imported from Europe. I was 
urgently invited to take home some precious stones, but I 
told them I would have enough to do to take myself home. 

When I took the canoe for the steamer at Colombo the 
sailing flag was up and the first starting signal had been 
given. The native boatmen recognized existing conditions. 
They knew that I was acquainted with the regular tariff, hav- 
ing inquired from an official. By many words and gestures 
they asked for an additional sum. Then they " slowed down" 



Life Aboard Ship. - 155 

and almost stopped rowing, intimating that they could hardly 
get to the steamer in time. My back was to the ship and 
in the very narrow^ canoe I could not turn. I finally took 
out an extra coin and held it in my hand. Instantly matters 
changed. The boatmen began a rowing-song and bent to 
the oars and soon brought me to the steamboat stairs. 

Before I left Hong-Kong for the steamer anchored out 
in the harbor I inquired about the boatmen's tariff. When 
at the steamer I gave the coolie double the sum, he made the 
welkin ring for more. I told him that I had given him twice 
the fare. Then he pointed to the roughness of the sea 
through which we had come. I told him that he was a 
cheat. That ended our dialogue. Very few of the natives 
any place pretend to be satisfied with the compensation from 
the " big-fool steamboat gentlemen." Yet they will gladly 
work for one-fifth of the sum for the people who live among 
them and "know the ropes." 

On a long voyage at sea passengers resort to various 
methods of passing the time. At our table the following 
were among some of the conundrums prop osed in the last 
two days: 

Query. — Why is a ship at sea like a diamond on a dandy ? 

Answer. — Because it is on the bosom of a swell. 

O.— What is that which the maker never sells, which the buyer 
does not want to keep, and which the user never sees? 

A. — A coffin. 

O. — What is the best wa}' to make a vest last ? 

A. — Make the coat and trousers first. 

O. — Whence does news come ? 

A.— From N. E. W. and S(outh). 

O. — If a hen and a half Irj an egg and a half in a daj- and a 
half, how many eggs will six hens lay in six days? 

O. — What is that which the more you take from it, the bigger 
it grows ? 

A.— A hole. 



156 St. Patrick's Day. 

i\. man said: " That young woman across the street has 
the same father and mother as I, yet I have no sister." 

After all had given it up, the relator said: "The man 
was a-big liar." 

There were games of all sorts. The tug-of-war was fre- 
quent, the teams being made up of men and women, boys 
and girls. Foot races were many. The music was busy, 
especially at night for dancing. 

St. Patrick's Day dawned bright and beautiful. It was 
made eventful by a school of five whales that sported in the 
Indian Ocean not far from our ship. They " spouted " and 
plunged, giving the passengers a good view of " the mon- 
sters of the deep." 

"The Day We Celebrate" had recognition on ship board. 
The "passengers of the first and second class" united in a 
concert and entertainment. Most of those who took part 
were Germans and English, there being very, very few Irish - 
aboard. It was about 1 a. m. before the curtain Vv'ent down. 
That formed one of the links in the chain of celebrations 
that annually reaches around the world. 

There was an old gentlemen on board who was "the 
double" of the lamented Rt. Rev. Bishop Gilmour. In age, 
in height, in head and face, in nationality, in walk and lan- 
guage, he was the exact counterpart of the late Bishop. 
From time to time I started a conversation with him. He so 
vividly recalled the departed that the sensation was almost 
like talking to one risen from the dead. 

Because of the number of vessels lost in the straits out- 
side of Aden they are called " Babelmandeb," the "Gate of 
Tears." We passed through them safely on the Feast of St. 
Joseph. 

Aden is the chief seaport of Arabia. It is a coaling sta- 
tion for the ships that pass on their way to Europe, India, 
or Australia. From Aden much of the far-famed Mocha 



The Chief Seaport of Arabia. . 157 

coffee is shipped. The city is some distance away from 
the anchorage. The brown and white houses are one and 
two stories high and made of sun-dried brick. There is not 
a blade of grass to be seen, and everything is dusty and dirty 
and thirsty. Water is sold and a certain amount is given 
out daily to the British soldiers. One would hardly suppose 
that the British Government would engage any place in sell- 
ing water. 

Before we sailed from the port of Aden, a large number 
of the natives came out to the steamer in boats. Dark, 
scantily attired and bareheaded, they brought with them 
various articles to tempt the passengers to purchase. Fine 
ostrich egg shells, ostrich feathers, long grey and black 
boas, antlers of the ibex, etc., constituted their stock in 
trade. They asked about three times the price for which 
they w^ere eventually willing to sell. Many of the ladies 
invested in ostrich feathers. I told a gentleman who got 
on at Colombo that I thought the price was low com- 
pared to home charges. He said that unless a person was 
very careful he would probably get cheated, as the natives 
often skillfully split the original feather into four distinct 
parts, and sell each one one as a genuine and entire feather. 
One old gentleman warned the passengers not to pass any 
money until they had received the goods and the exact 
change. About ten minutes afterwards I was much amused 
to see that old man with a native in a corner trying to make 
him disgorge a sixpence due in change. The native pre- 
tended to be much puzzled at the demand. I said to the old 
gentleman, ''the double" to whom I have referred: "The 
natives, from all indications, are not very honest." 

" Honest ? They are scoundrels, sir." 

Quite a good deal of tea was taken as cargo, but a large 
amount of coffee had to be refused for want of room. 
Black and barren as Aden is, I wondered that it had any- 



158 . A Second Gibraltar. 

thing to export. The tea and coffee came from the far in- 
terior. There is very little rain at Aden or in the neighbor- 
hood. Sometimes there is not a particle of rain for two or 
three years. Large reservoirs or tanks have been con- 
structed to preserve all the rainfall possible, as the only 
source of fresh water supply. The water is not very fresh 
by the time the next rain comes. Strange that such a place, 
a place, by the way, very unhealthy, should be ''Home, Sweet 
Home " for many human beings. I pitied the English soldiers 
who have to perform garrison duty in Aden. The harbor is 
a second Gibraltar." The high hills commanding the straits, 
are strongly fortified. It would be very difficult, if not im- 
possible, for an enemy's fleet to pass through. 

When the steamer was ready to depart, the officers and 
sailors had to force the natives from the ship, sometimes 
using cuffs and kicks with reserved power. As the natives 
found that their time was up, prices came down rapidly. 
Many who had purchased regretted that they had not waited 
for " the last call " — the bargain sales. How often it hap- 
pens that when things get cheap and cheaper the ladies sadly 
find that they spent their money too soon. 

As the boats made off, one of the passengers said : 
" Look at the hair of the natives. It is so hot here that the 
heat burns their hair to that peculiar red gold." I replied : 
" It is not the heat that causes that color, but a pecuHar dye 
that the natives use for the purpose." 

At Aden, as at Singapore and Colombo, the natives dive 
for coins thrown into the sea. When the silver strikes the 
water, the boats are emptied and down, down go the natives, 
forty, fifty or more feet into the ocean. Some one of them 
is sure to come up with the coin between his teeth. Then 
again rises the chorus : "Dive ! dive ! ! dive ! ! ! dive ! ! ! !" 

As we passed out from the anchorage we were given a 
graphic object lesson illustrating the dangers of navigation 



The Red Sea. 159 

in the vicinity of Aden. The top of a mast was seen over 
the water. On inquiring I found that it marked the wreck 
of a large French mail steamer which had gone down on the 
rocks. 

In the Red Sea we experienced the largest waves and-the 
coldest weather since leaving the Pacific Ocean. The Red 
Sea appears insignificant on the map, but it is over thirteen 
hundred miles long and from one hundred to two hundred 
miles wide, more than five times as long as Lake Erie, and 
about three times as wide. It is considered a dangerous sea 
for navigation. I do not know why it is called " red." A 
boy at school- once answered by saying: "Because they 
caught red herrings there." The waters are as blue as those 
of the ocean. The waters of the "Black Sea" are not black, 
nor are the waters of the " Blue Danube " blue. One gen- 
tleman aboard told me that the red seaweed, which I noticed 
floating now and then by the ship, gives the name to the sea. 

At the steamship ofiice in Colombo I met a fine young- 
German, a good specimen of physical manhood. He M^as 
about thirty or thirty-five years of age, six feet two or three 
inches tall and built in proportion, and of light complexion. 
I recognized him as having been a fellow-passenger from 
Kobe to Hong-Kong. He had for some years been in bus- 
iness in Yokohama, Japan, and was on his way home to 
Germany. I noticed that for the first few days he joined 
his German fellow-passengers in their native songs. I also 
noticed that he played a good game of chess. After that I 
perceived that he was much alone, apparently avoiding all 
company. Friday and Saturday night, March 18 and 19, 
several others and I slept in our steamer robes, on the upper 
deck. It was so hot that we found more comfort on deck 
because there we got what breeze was moving. The young 
German slept near me. He appeared to be restless. Finally 
I fell asleep. When I awakened, I found that he had 



160 A Suicide. 

attempted to commit suicide by leaping into the sea. A 
fellow-passenger fortunately prevented him and gave the 
alarm. A watch was then placed upon him. Sunday night, 
at 1 o'clock, I noticed him walking on the upper deck. I 
saw no watch near, but a number of passengers were about. 
I remarked to Mr. Orr, a Scotchman : " That young man will 
probably make another attempt at suicide. Such persons do 
not stop with the first attempt. I have not noticed any 
guard on his movements all the afternoon. He is in a 
dangerous mood." It being cold I retired that night to the 
state-room. At 2 a. m. Mr. Orr awakened me. He said, 
quite excitedly : "That young man has gone over the side 
of the ship; he has leaped into the sea as you said he would." 
I hurried on deck. The steamer had been stopped, and a 
boat sent out to find him, but it was pitch dark and the 
waves were quite high. In about half an hour the boat was 
called back ; no trace of him had been found. The captain 
said, in justification to himself, that he had placed two men 
to watch him after 10 o'clock. 

I learned that the young man had been in business for 
some years in Yokohoma, Japan, and was gladly on his way 
home to greet his aged mother. I also learned that the 
mother, a widow, anxious and impatient to meet her long 
absent son, had planned to surprise him on the ship at Genoa. 
She could not wait for his arrival at Bremen. How sharp 
and heavy a sword of sorrow must have pierced the affec- 
tionate heart of the loving old German mother when there 
was broken to her the sad news of the terrible death of her 
only son, the staff of her old age. May the good Lord have 
comforted her in the long and dark night of her unspeakable 
grief. The captain was requested by the passengers to tele- 
graph to Bremen to prevent the mother of the suicide from 
starting for Genoa. 

While walking the deck the next night about 10 o'clock 



Scene on the Suez Canal. 



161 



I noticed a man in a dark place looking intently into the sea. 
With my mind on the suicide, I was curious about this indi- 
vidual and his apparent gloom. I mentioned the matter to a 
gentleman in my state-room. The next morning I learned 
that that man had been drinking rather much and that the 
captain had him locked up, fearing another case of suicide. 




ON the SUEZ CANAL. 



The sea appears to have a depressing effect on some. 
Having left home and friends and finding no congenial com- 
panionship, they may be inclined to drink and go to excess 
and drift into melancholy. The young German, however, did 
not appear to be under the influence of stimulants. 

What strange beings these mortals are ! There was evi- 
dent depression among the passengers Monday, and the band 



162 The Great Suez Canal. 

did not play that night. But it played at 11 a. m. Tuesday. 
Then this notice was posted : " All the passengers are invited 
to an entertainment at 9 o'clock this evening, on the hurri- 
cane deck. The Committee." The sea is very changeable, 
but man in his moods keeps pace with its ebb and flow. The 
large trunk of the suicide had been brought from his state- 
room and was visible to all, yet in sight of that sad memento 
the command is given : '' On with the song, and the play 
and the dance." 

On a clear day Mount Sinai may be seen from the 
steamer's deck as it nears the western end of the Red Sea. 
The world's most famous mountain was pointed out to me. 
How strange and startling to be so near that summit from 
which God spoke to Moses and gave to man the Ten Com- 
mandments. The condition of eternal life is : " If thou 
wilt enter into life ' keep the Commandments.' " 

We would not have been in that vicinity in a trip around 
the world had not the genius of Ferdinand de Lesseps 
brought to a successful termination the Suez Canal, uniting 
the Rea Sea with the Mediterranean. It was opened on the 
16th of November, 1869. The nations joined in the grand 
festivities of an event so important to commerce. Their 
representatives assembled at Ismalia, where I landed the 
23d of March. Ismalia is midway between Suez and Port 
Said, the termini of the canal. The success of this artificial 
water-way has surpassed all expectations. The annual in- 
come from the tolls levied on the ships that pass amounts to 
$53,000,000. 

The canal very much shortens the distances between im- 
portant points. Formerly ships had to pass around the Cape 
of Good Hope. The distance from London to Hong-Kong 
was over fifteen thousand miles, now it is eleven thousand 
one hundred; to Bombay it was twelve thousand five hundred, 
now it is seven thousand. From Marseilles it was twelve 



Ism ALIA — x\rabs on a Journey, 



163 



thousand miles, now it is only five thousand by the canal. 
The canal is eighty-seven miles long. It requires eighteen 
hours to pass through when the way is clear. The speed is 
regulated to a maximum rate of six miles an hour so as not 
to damage the canal by the steamer's wash. 

Eighty-six per cent of the commerce passing through the 
canal sails under the Enghsh flag. 




ARABS ON A JOURNEY. 



We arrived at Ismalia on the night of March 23. We 
had expected to be detained many times by passing ships, as 
two cannot pass unless one of them takes to the slip. But 
it was very remarkable that in a journey of nine hours we 
met not a ship in the canal. At Ismalia we passed a large 
P. & 0. steamer bound for Australia. 

The canal passes through a desert. The ride was very 



164 IsMALiA TO Cairo. 

hot and uninteresting. We were roused now and then by 
seeing Arabs in the distance astride the " ships of the 
desert." Six of the passengers landed at Ismalia and twenty- 
one boarded the ship. As we were departing on the steam 
launch the passengers gave us three cheers as a send- 
off. We got through the Egyptian custom-house examina- 
tion without much difficulty. We had to wait until the next 
day at 2 o'clock for a train to Cairo. I passed the time in 
looking about the town. I had an invitation to ride a "gooda 
looking donkey, a very gooda donkey," but I took a carriage. 
Five shillings were asked for a drive. I expressed a disin- 
clination to go on account of the heat, and the price was 
lowered to two shillings. Ismalia is built in the aesert. 1 
do not understand how the people live. Most of them occupy 
mud hovels. There is a fresh water canal connecting Ismalia 
with Cairo. The carriage driver brought me so far from 
the town and into such a lonesome place that I began to 
wonder if he had designs on me. I made him return. 

The ride from Ismalia to Cairo on the railway is verv 
varied. For two hours we passed through the desert ; for 
two more hours through a very fertile country. On the way 
we passed the cemetery where the English officers and sol- 
diers killed in an Egyptian battle were buried. 

Very primitive methods are used in tilling the land. 
There does not appear to have been any change since Biblical 
times. Some places we saw a camel yoked wnth a cow to 
pull the old-fashioned plow ; sometimes two cows or a cow 
and an ox furnished the power. Irrigation appears to be 
necessary in all the farms of Egypt. Mud hovels are the 
dwelling places of the tillers of the soil w^ho live in villages. 

It was very hot and the ride oppressive. There were two 
clergymen of the Church of England in the same car with 
me. One of them was overcome by the heat. He was re- 
stored to consciousness with difficulty. 



Cairo. 



165 



CHAPTER XVI. 

THE PYRAMIDS— THE SPHINX — THE CITADEL AND MOSQUES — 

AN IRISH TURK — FAMOUS STREETS AND BAZAARS 

OF CAIRO— A SURFEIT OP DONKEYS AND 

GUIDES — OFF FOR JERUSALEM. 

We arrived in Cairo at 5:30 p. m., on the eve of the 
Annunciation. I took up quarters in the " Victoria." I 
called on the Franciscan Fathers, who have charge at Cairo 
of St. .Joseph's Church. I celebrated Mass there the next 
morning at 8 o'clock. There was a large congregation 
present, i^ After my Mass a Bishop and a priest came in. We 




GENERAL VIEW OF CAIRO. 



166 "Baksheesh" — The Pyramids. 

introduced ourselves. The Bishojj proved to be Rt. Rev. A. 
Gaughran, of Kimberly, South Africa, and the priest, Father 
Lennon, of Liverpool. I found that they had just returned 
from Jerusalem and were on their way to Rome. At -Jeru- 
salem they had met the American pilgrims and among them 
four priests of the Cleveland diocese. 

Bishop Gaughran and Rev. Lennon, not liking the fashion, 
the noise and the crowd, at Shepherd's Hotel, came that day 
to the " Victoria." We formed a congenial trio and made 
our excursions together. 

No one but those who have had personal experience can 
understand how universal and persistent are the demands of 
the natives for "baksheesh" (gifts). If one picks up your 
glove he holds out his hand and asks for baksheesh; if he 
points the way there is another demand ; even if he does 
nothing at all he wants baksheesh from you. I intended to 
give half a franc, which is a half day's wages there, to one 
who carried my bag into the car. Instead of making change 
he took the franc and went off with himself and it. I could 
not miss the train so I missed him. I was then quite ready 
to agree with the Bishop and Father Lennon to cut off 
the baksheesh unless for services rendered. We tried it on 
our visit to the Pyramids. What a retinue we had I How 
the swarm of guides clamored and crowded and demanded 
" baksheesh." They wanted to show us the Pyramids. We 
told them that they were quite evident. They said it was 
"their business" to show the Pyramids. We replied that 
the Pyramids were very much in evidence, and that they had 
no business with us, as we had not hired them. From fifty 
cents they came down to sixpence. We told them we would 
not give them a "piastre." We had a battle all the way, but 
we conquered. 

The Pyramids are very imposing and the most ancient of 
monuments. We saw them lone; before we entered Cairo. 



The Sphinx — Memphis. 167 

They appeared near, but are eight miles away from the city. 
The largest is four hundred and, sixty feet high and each side 
is seven hundred and fifty-five feet long at the base. In 
other words, they cover about thirteen acres. They are so 
solidly built that not a particle of settling can be seen. This 
is remarkable when we consider their bulk and the time they 
have existed. 

It is not so very difficult to climb the Pyramids, but it is 
very fatiguing. The descent requires care and even a climber 
of experience should not disdain help, as a mis-step or stum- 
ble would be fatal. 

The Sphinx is near the Pyramids. It is believed that it 
is much older than they. The body and head of the Sphinx 
are hewn out of the rocky clilf which juts out of the desert. 
The body is one hundred and forty feet long. From the 
forehead to the chin is about thirty feet, and the head is 
fourteen feet across. The front paws are fifty feet long. 
The height of the figure must be nearly seventy feet. When 
I looked upon this mysterious figure the first thought that 
' came to my mind was the tradition that the Blessed Virgin 
and the child .Jesus rested in its lap 'on the flight into Egypt 
from the malice of Herod. I felt that I stood upon a spot 
consecrated by the sacred presence of the Holy Family. 
"Near the Pyramids, more wonderous and more awful than 
all else in the land of Egypt, there sits the lonely Sphinx. 
Comely the creature is, but its comeliness is not of this 
world." 

From the base of the Pyramids we looked with interest 
over toward the old site of Memphis, the city of Pharaoh, 
where Joseph interpreted the King's dream. That once 
great city has passed away ; no trace remains. How liter- 
ally fulfilled has been the prediction of Jeremiah, God's 
Prophet : " Memphis shall become a desert ; she shall be 
forsaken and become uninhabited." The Word of God "shall 



168 The Famous Citadel. 

not pass away." We then turned and looked away to the 
Land of Goshen, where the sons of Jacob once fed their 
flocks. How full of history, both sacred and profane, is the 
land of Egypt ! 

The road from Cairo to the Pyramids is hard and smooth 
and well shaded nearly all the distance. In the drive we 
passed several palaces, fine gardens and picturesque villas. 
We met strings of camels, heavily laden, on their way to the 
City of the Caliphs. 

On Saturday, the 26th, we visited the famous Citadel of 
Cairo. This mediasval fortress is one of the most interesting 
of the historic buildings of the Egyptian capital. We en- 
tered between high and hea\7' stone walls that enclose a 
narrow road. 

We walked along the scene of the most dastardly and 
terrible massacre mentioned in history. It took place there 
in the year 1811. Mehemet Ali invited the Mameluke Beys 
to a feast in their honor. They came mounted on their 
magnificent steeds and all wearing their richest uniforms, 
forming the most superb cavalry in the world. After a 
most flattering reception they were requested to parade in 
the court of the Citadel. They entered the fortification un- 
suspectingly. When the last had passed, the portcullis fell 
behind them. In a moment the Mameluke Beys recognized 
the treachery of the Pasha and their doom. Nothing was 
visible but blank walls and barred windows. The bullets 
from one thousand muskets rained upon them. The blue 
sky was soon darkened by the smoke as volley upon volley 
was poured upon them. It is said that one, Emin Bey, 
escaped. Spurring his charger over a heap of his slaugh- 
tered comrades, it sprang upon the battlements. It was a 
dizzy height, but in a moment he was in the air, another 
and his steed was crushed' and dead on the rocks below. 
Amid a shower of bullets he escaped to tell of the terrible 



England in Possession. 



169 



slaughter. As we stood upon the brink of " The Bey's Leap" 
we realized the miraculous nature of the escape. 

The Citadel is intimately connected with the history of 
Cairo and of Egypt. It was assaulted by Napoleon I. and 
captured. Some of the marks of his cannon balls are still 
pointed out to the tourist. The Citadel is now in possession 
of the English army- of occupation. "Those who hesitate 




THE CITADEL. 

are lost," is an old saying. When France hesitated and lost 
her opportunity in 1883, England took possession " tempo- 
rarily " to guarantee the payment of the Egyptian loans. 
Lord Granville stated at the time that England would be glad 
to vacate when Egypt met her monetary obligations. An 
opinion prevails and is growing that England has come to 
Egypt to stay. The story of the camel is well known. It 



P 



170 English Military Barracks. 

only wanted to put its nose within the door at first. It then 
inserted its head and neck, and finally got its entire body in 
and dispossessed the man of the house. 

Doubtless England will find " reasons of state " for 
" holding on " to Egypt. P'rom what I have seen and from 
what we know of the " Tight Little Isle " there is not much 
danger of England voluntarily letting "go of a good thing. 
I have not much love for England, but from what I saw 
I think that the "English occupation" is a good thing for 
Egypt and her people, and especially for the Christians of the 
country. There is now system and uniformity in the dis- 
tribution of taxes, and the finances are improving wonder- 
fully. We find native Egyptians in the offices and filling the 
different posts under the government, but nevertheless there 
is a supervision and management and direction under English 
control. It is not obtrusive, but is nevertheless firm and 
watchful. 

There are a number of English military barracks in dif- 
ferent parts of the city. The cannon on the walls of the 
Citadel can sweep the town in case of necessity. Major 
Darras holds command of the forces in the Citadel. In 
manners and language he is a typical Englishman. Bishop 
Gaughran, Father Lennon and I sent our cards in to him. 
We were cordially received. The Major, without hesitation, 
knelt to kiss Bishop Gaughran's ring. On my being pre- 
sented the Major said : " I have seen this Father before.'' 
I was surprised, and asked : " Major, when and where did 
you ever see me before to-day?" The Major replied: "I 
assisted at the Mass you celebrated at 8 o'clock on the Feast 
of the Annunciation in St. Joseph's Church." We then knew 
that the Major was glad both to profess and practice his 
religion. Cigars and soda and something else were ordered 
by the Major. It was quite evident that the treatment the 
Major gave us raised us in the eyes of the Mahometan guide. 



The Mosque of Mehemet All 171 

By the direction of Major D arras we were conducted to the 
various portions of the Citadel. 

Within the walls of the Citadel is the beautiful alabaster 
Mosque of Mehemet Ali. One of the Mahometans told us 
that it is the most beautiful mosque in the world. It is very 
large and very imposing and the minarets are lofty and 
elegant. It is filled only three times a year. I learned this 
on questioning the young and intelligent Mahometan who 
accompanied us. It is the tomb of its builder, Mehemet Ali. 
It was constructed only about seventy-five years ago. The 
Persian carpets that cover the floor cost, I was told, over 
$10,000. From the lofty ceiling and dome are suspended 
one thousand lamps. 

We were informed that there are three thousand mosques 
in Cairo. I asked what need of them, since a lesser number 
would suffice for the attendance of the people. The Mahom- 
etan said: "They are not for the people primarily ; they are 
for God. The Koran says that whoever builds a mosque 
builds for himself a home in heaven, the magnificence of 
which will be in proportion to his expenditures for the House 
of God on earth. Therefore, all Mahometans of sufficient 
means try to build mosques, and others to contribute to 
their expense when necessary." 

The sacrifices of the Mahometans for religion on the 
word of an imposter ought to shame the neglect and the 
parsimony of many Catholics, who should often call to mind 
the promise of Our Divine Lord, Who says that He will 
reward His followers in proportion to their works. "The 
Lord loves the cheerful giver." 

On departing from the Citadel, we were surprised to be 
saluted by a Turkish official wearing a prominent fez and 
carrying a sword. We returned the salute and stopped to 
speak to the Turk. He spoke English. After a few minutes 
I said to him : " You are not a Turk." 



172 An Irish Turk. 

" Indeed I am not ; God forbid,'' he replied. 

" Where do you hail from ? " 

" Well, I've been in Egypt about seventeen years, but I 
hail from the County Down, Ireland." 

I asked : " From what part of it? " 

"From Downpatrick, where St. Patrick was buried," he 
answered. 

'■ Well, well," said the Bishop ; " how strange to meet an 
Irishman out here looking like a Turk and wearing a fez and 
dressed in the Egyptian uniform. Do you know the Arabic- 
language ? '' 

" I do, your reverence." 

" Well, don't you think you ought to go home, on a visit, 
-at least?" 

"I am going back to Ireland in the summer. I'd like to 
be there for the '98 celebration." 

''Will you return to Egypt?" 

" Indeed I will not ; if I stay here much longer they will 
make a Mahomet out of me." 

With a laugh and a hand shake we parted. As we did so 
I said to the Egyptian officer and Downpatrick Irishman: 
■'Good-bye; I may meet you next summer in the County 
Down, at Downpatrick. That particular spot is on my pro- 
gram." 

In my trip " around the world" I went no place where I 
did not find the exiles of Erin. They are scattered the 
world over. In strange lands, by native talent and ability, 
they work themselves into positions of merit, responsibility 
and reward with much more success than at home. Why ? 
They get fair play and better opportunities, and are not so 
laden with pains and penalties. 

In the afternoon the Bishop and I resolved to visit the 
street of the bazaars, or Bazaar Street. Father Lennon. 
heing tired, remained at the hotel. All tourists are advised 



The Streets op Cairo. 



ITS 



to visit the bazaars on foot to get a good idea of Cairo life. 

The bazaars crowd a narrow street for about a mile and a 

half. They also occupy 

side streets which run 

off from the main 

bazaar street. 

In resolving to go 

and return on foot we 

were actual " Innocents 

Abroad." We had not 

gone far on our way 

when four or five per- 
sistent natives invited 
us to take a ride on 
" gooda donkeys." We 
finally shook them off. 
The street being nar- 
row, it was filled up by 
pedestrians, carriages, 
donkeys, etc. We had 
many encounters with 
the donkey and car- 
riage men. Finally the 
Bishop suggested that 
we should go down a 
side street to reach a 
mosque with a fine min- 
^aret. We went, but we 
did not come back 
alone. There were don- 
keys and donkeys, men 
and boys to the right 
and left of us, in the 
front and rear of us. 




BAZAAR STREET. 



174 A Surfeit of Donkeys and Guides. 

and it was not their fault that they were not on top of us. 
Our escort grew and our pace became necessarily much 
slower. It looked like a conspiracy to force us to ride and 
also to pay baksheesh. We resolved that we would not pay 
tribute, and that we would go to the end of the street. I 
reminded the Bishop of the American motto: "Millions for 
defence, but not one cent for tribute." After a time I said : 
" The donkeys block the way." 

The Bishop said : " Indeed they do, but misery loves 
company." 

" Not so much company as this ; it only adds to the 
misery," I answered. 

The din was awful. What lungs and persistence the 
natives have! "Come, Mister, I got a gooda donkey. He's 
Saladin. He no kick. You ride him for five piastre. My 
donkey is the bester donkey." Twice the police drove away 
our retinue, but our followers were loyal. They came again 
at the next block and brought some neighbors. I said to the 
Bishop . "There is no procedamus in pace here." Once, with 
a hand on the back of each, I swung myself between two 
donkeys. There was another crosswise at their head. I 
jabbed him with the umbrella, to the disgust of his owner. 
The Bishop and I both wanted to " lay on " like MacDufi:, but 
our opponents were too numerous and not in very good 
humor at our persistence in refusing to pay tribute. I said : 
"■ that we would meet that Turk from County Down." 

We finally got to the end of the street. There we were 
confronted by a big and impassable hill. There was nothing 
to do but to return. We soon met our friends, the enemy. 
There were none but natives about us. We finally did welt 
some of the asses placed so as to block our way. I brought 
my umbrella point down with a little emphasis on the bare 
foot of one of the donkey men. He looked deeply hurt, but 
he appeared to be at a loss to know whether it was acci- 



"Dank Gott, Vone 1st Dead.' 



175 



dental or intentional. I did not advise him, but looked 
blandly away. With a gaze of injured innocence he went 
away. I did not know whether he had gone to call his clan 
or not. However, I felt like the German who was prevented 
from sleeping in a Pullman by the snoring. One of the 
sleepers finally let a big snort and stopped. The old German 
then exclaimed: "Dank Gott, vone ist dead." 




WAIT FOR THE WAGON. 



We finally made our way back to the Esbekyeh Garden 
and peace. I asked the Bishop, as we sat down, wiping the 
perspiration from our faces : "How did you like the 
bazaars ? " He laughed and said, as he wiped his forehead : 
" They are fine, but they might be finer." 

Father Lennon, at supper, wanted to know how we had 
enjoyed our walk. We told him that we would never forget 



176 Old Cairo — The Nilometer — "Runners." 

it. "Then I must go/' he said. The Bishop and I looked at 
each other. Father Lennon did not catch our glance of 
amusement. 

The Bishop remarked that he thought our treatment in 
the bazaar street indicated, in addition to avarice, a spirit of 
bitter hostility to Europeans and to the British occupation. 
In fact, a young Egyptian, a convert, told us that he thought 
that were the English to vacate Egypt, the natives would 
hardly wait a day to massacre the Christians. 

The Bishop and I on another day visited Old Cairo and 
the Coptic Church there. There is an old tradition that the 
Holy Family rested there during the flight into Egypt. 

We then took a boat and passed the spot at Rhoda 
Island where, it is said that Moses while an infant was found 
amid the bullrushes by the daughter of King Pharaoh. 

Near this spot is the Nilometer, by which the rise in the 
waters of the Nile were measured. It was also used as a 
meter for taxation. The higher the w^ater rose, the higher 
rose the taxes. The people of Egypt had no more confidence 
in the Nilometer than most people have in the gas meter. 

Among the peculiar street scenes in Cairo at night are 
the crowds in and about the cafes. Cairo is a city of cafes. 
It would appear that nearly all the people frequent them. 
Chairs and small tables cover the sidewalks and overflow 
half way across the streets. There are found people of all 
nationalities. Wine and beer and liquors, light refreshments 
and the water-bowled Turkish pipes and cigarettes are con- 
spicuous. Father Lennon and I took a walk out one night 
on a tour of observation in the populous part of the city. 
Egyptian runners invited us to many places of amusements, 
but being suspicious of their character we refused. Of 
course, the natives did not know that we were priests and 
even if they had, that fact would not have prevented the de- 
praved gang from extending their pressing invitations. 



The Donkey Boys. 177 

We returned at 11 p. m. The crowds were still at the 
cafes. Father Lennon said : " I wonder when do these 
people retire?" 

I replied : " They may imitate a young man in the 
United States. A friend asked him : ' Was not that a beau- 
tiful sunrise we had this morning ? ' He said : ' I do not 
know, I never stay up that late .' " 

The crowds were sociable, orderly and apparently happy. 
However, it was quite evident that the recruiting agents for 
vice were not absent from the night scenes in the streets of 
Cairo. In the words of the hymn: 

"Temptation and danger walk forth in the night." 

The donkey boys of Cairo are sharp and cunning, even if 
some of them be impudent. They give their animals very 
fantastic or very imposing names and many a one is desig- 
nated : " The besta donkey in Cairo." 

One evening I was waiting for a 'Hram-car" when one of 
the lads approached and asked : " Have a donkey, Miste — 
a very gooda donkey, the best in Cairo; only four piastre 
an hour?" 

" No, I want no donkey." 

" I got Lilly Langtry." 

" No." 

" I give you ride on Gladstone ; he very gooda donkey." 

"Go away, you rascal; you should not insult Mr. Glad- 
stone's name." 

"You Americain? I got Yankee Doodle — Yankee Doodle 
come to town." 

I then got on the car and left the enterprising young- 
Arab. Two street cars were attached. I took the rear 
one. When in the native quarter that car was cut off 
without a word of warning to me, and away sped the first 
car. I watched it until it got out of sight. In about ten 
minutes it came back, but did not stop on its way to the 



178 Street Cars and Dwellings. 

city, and the conductor made no sign to me. I was in no 
great hurry and wanted to see what would be done with the 
abandoned car and " the passenger aboard left behind." In 
the meantime, I had many calls for baksheesh, and was also 
importuned to buy matches and a number of other articles. 
Quite a number of people were gambling on the curbs with 
dice, etc. The dwelHng places were one-story huts made of 
sun-dried mud. There appeared to be no regularity of 
street lines in that quarter. Labyrinths of narrow passages 
were the means of communication with the main street. On 
the roof of one of the- huts I saw a goat nibbling at a few 
blades of grass. The places swarmed with people of all ages 
and of almost every shade. I w^ondered how they managed 
to live. One or two rooms seemed to constitute the homes. 
They looked gloomy and cave-like. It appeared that the 
door was the only medium for light and ventilation. 

After a time another car approached from town. It 
pushed the one upon which I sat to the end of the line 
and then pulled it back to where I had left the donkey boy. 

Cairo is a lively, bustling city in the " season." But by 
the 1st of April the tourists begin to leave the Saratoga of 
Egypt, as the hot season opens about that time. The *' turn- 
outs " are many and stylish. Before the aristocratic occu- 
pants, fantastic but richly dressed and fleet-footed men run, 
uttering warning cries to pedestrians or vehicles in the way. 
Often in these carriages one may notice Egyptian ladies 
veiled in white from the eyes down. Sometimes they are 
entirely veiled. Similar costumes are often noticed on the 
streets of Cairo. 

While the Bishop and I were on the bazaar street, we 
were passed by a funeral procession. First came a large 
number of men walking four abreast. They wore long, dark 
robes and each carried beads, upon which prayers were 
being said. Then followed the coffin. After the coffin came 



Pilgrims. 179 

the widow riding, man-fashion, on a donkey. As she swayed 
from side to side in her wailing .sorrow, she was held in 
place by a man on either side. After her followed a large 
number of women, also walking four abreast and praying on 
beads. There was not a carriage in the procession, and with 
the exception of the widow, all walked. 

I had noticed on the streets of Cairo and in the cars a 
number with beads in their hands. At first I thought that 
they were pious Catholics. After a time I noticed that no 
crucifix was attached to them. I inquired from a Mahom- 
etan in regard to the prayers that are said on the beads. 
He told me that every good Mahometan is expected to say 
one hundred times a day : " God is God. There is but one 
God and Mahomet is His Prophet." The beads are used to 
indicate the number of times. 

Tuesday morning I celebrated Mass at St. Joseph's and 
bade the Franciscan Fathers good-bye. They had been very 
kind. Brother Charles, who had been for a number of years 
in New York, was especially pleased to meet a priest from 
the United States. He gave me a relic as a memento of my 
visit and, I think, as a sign of his love for America. 

I found an organized party going, under the direction of 
Mr. H. Clark, to Jerusalem, Jericho, the Dead Sea, etc. I 
joined the party for at least an, eight-days' tour. I found 
that the members of the party were all Americans, and all 
non-Catholics but myself. I was much gratified to meet Mr. 
and Mrs. R. C. White, of Cleveland, among them. The 
pleasure appeared to have been mutual. The "White" 
is well-known among the sewing machines of the world. 
Among the ministers were Revs. J. L. Campbell, D. D., New 
York ; G. 0. Gates, St. John's, N. B. ; E. T. Sanford, Port 
Jervis, N. Y. ; John K. McClurkin, D. D., Pittsburg ; Thomas 
D. Anderson, Providence ; and Rev. Jennings, Elmira. There 
were two doctors. Dr. Robinson, of Los Angeles, and Dr. 



180 Off For Jerusalem. 

Shelleto, of Allegheny ; two lawyers, E. K. Snell, Pottstown, 
Pa., and H. Stillwell, of New York. 

Before leaving Cairo I inquired at a forwarding office the 
price of sending a medium sized valise to London. When 
the agent named his price I said that I \vould give him the 
bag and its contents for half the sum. There is no check 
system. Baggage becomes a double burden. I advise tour- 
ists to travel light. As a rule I was always ready to pick 
up and go when necessary, as I could take my belongings in 
my hand. When leaving home take little with you in the 
way of baggage, and then take only part of that. Light 
marching order is advisable. 

When my time was up in Cairo I bade good-bye to Bishop 
Gaughran and Father Lennon. Our days together had been 
very enjoyable, The Bishop said if I ever got into his part 
of the world he wished I would pay him a visit in Kimberly, 
South Africa. Since then I have learned more of South 
Africa, as the world has, by the war of the British with the 
Boers. At the siege of Kimberly I understood that the 
good Bishop was one of the besieged by the army of Oom 
Paul Kruger. 

At Port Said I met Father O'Doherty, to whom I referred 
when writing about Colombo, and the incident concerning 
bad treatment on the B. & L line. I was delighted when I 
found that he, also, was going to Jerusalem. 



The Land of Palestine. 



18] 



CHAPTER XVII. 

IN THE LAND OF PALESTINE — LANDING AT JAFFA — DODGING 

CUSTOMS OFFICIALS — ACROSS THE PLAIN OF SHARON 

— THE FIRST GLIMPSE OF JERUSALEM, THE 

HOLY CITY — THE CASA NOVA. 

When we boarded the steamer at Port Said we found the 
decks crowded with pilgrims from Austria on their way to 
the Holy City. There were a number of priests with them. 
Before closing their eyes for sleep all had public prayers, and 
sang some hymns. They slept upon the deck. 

All the passengers were up early the next morning, 
eagerly seeking a glimpse of the Land of Palestine. After a 
time it loomed up through the mist. We hailed it with 




JAFFA. 



182 Dodging Customs Officials. 

affection as the Holy Land from which came the great and 
unspeakable blessings of Redemption. 

Our landing place was the city of Jaffa. As there is no 
harbor, it is often impossible to land. In such cases the 
steamers have to go to Beirut, one hundred and sixty miles 
away, and there land the passengers. At Beirut they must 
await favorable weather to return to Jaffa or go overland to 
Jerusalem, some two hundred miles. Fortunately the day 
was beautiful and the water calm. The boatmen came in 
large numbers from the shore and we were soon on terra 
firma. 

We were told before leaving the ship that a Turkish 
passport or the endorsement of the Turkish Consul on our 
national passports would be necessary before we would be 
permitted to pass the custom-house. Unfortunately I had 
neither. Mr. Clark told me that I would not be permitted to 
pass without the Turkish passport. I had supposed my 
American document of State would do. But that alone 
had no force. I could hardly realize that a matter which 
appeared to me to be of such small importance would block 
my entrance to the Holy Land after coming so far. But 
when I noticed that the passengers had to pass through a 
large door guarded by two officials, who demanded the pass- 
ports, I was in a dilemma. However, I determined to use a 
little strategy. I waited near until they were very busy 
examining the passports of others, then I quietly and quickly 
slipped by, expecting to be halted every moment. But evi- 
dently I had not been observed, and I was soon mingling 
with those who had been " o. k.'d." I drew a long breath 
and had no regret for cheating the Turkish guards . But the 
incident was not finally closed, as the reader will learn before 
my departure from Palestine. 

Jaffa, while. finely situated, is not inviting. The streets 
are narrow and unclean. It is, however, a very ancient city. 



Jaffa. 183 

It is said that Noah built his ark at Jaffa. Having been 
destroyed by the Deluge, the city was rebuilt by Japhet, 
the son of Noah, and hence its name, Jaifa. It was from 
this place that Jonas took the ship from which he was cast 
into the sea. From Jaffa, Hiram, King of Tyre, sent the 
timber cut on Mount Lebanus, for Solomon's Temple. Judas 
Machabeus, to avenge two hundred Jews, burnt the city and 
its ships, and killed all who escaped the flames. The his- 
torian Josephus states that Certius pilaged Jaffa and killed 
the inhabitants and burned the city. Vespatian, at a later 
date, also captured the city and put the unfortunate people 
to death. The Crusaders captured Jaffa in 1099, and it 
became an episcopal seat. 

The history of Jaffa has been one of warfare and pillage, 
destruction and death, for generations. It has witnessed, 
within and without its walls, the waving banners of Saladin, 
Richard the Lion Hearted, Frederick II., St. Louis, King 
of France, and Napoleon I. 

Jaffa was the scene of a most remarkable miracle per- 
formed by St. Peter. He raised the dead Tabitha, or Dorcas, 
to life. It was at Jaffa that he had the vision of the pure 
and the impure animals. 

Jaffa is sometimes called Yafa and Joppa. In Acts of 
the Apostles, ix. 36-42, we read as follows : 

And in Joppe there was a certain disciple named Tabitha, 
which by interpretation is called Dorcas. This woman was fnll of 
good works and alms deeds which she did. And it came to pass 
in those days that she was sick, and died. Whom when they had 
washed, they laid her in an upper chamber. And forasmuch as 
Lydda was nigh to Joppe, the disciples hearing that Peter was 
there, sent unto him two men, desiring him that he would not be 
slack to come unto them. And Peter rising up, went with them. 
And when he was come, they brought him into the upper cham- 
ber. And all the widows stood about him weeping and shewing 
him the coats and garments which Dorcas made them. And they 
all being put forth, Peter kneeling down prayed, and turning to 



184 The House of Simon — Lydda. 

the bodj^ he said : Tabitha arise. And she opened her eyes, 
and seeing Peter, she sat up. And giving her his hand, he Hfted 
her up. And when he had called the saints and the widows, he 
presented her alive. And it was made known throughout all 
Joppe ; and many believed in the Lord. 

Those who wish to read of St. Peter's vision at Joppe 
concerning the " great linen sheet let down by the four 
corners from heaven to earth, wherein were all manner of 
four-footed beasts and creeping things of the earth and 
fowls of the air," should read Acts of the Apostles, x. It 
marks a most important event in divine revelation. 

Our first visit in Jaffa was to the house of Simon. '' Send 
men to Joppe and call hither one Simon, who is surnamed 
Peter. He lodgeth with one Simon, a tanner, whose house 
is by the seaside." We found it by the seaside, old and 
weather-beaten. It is but one-story high and is built of 
stone. We ascended the outside narrow stone stairway to 
the flat roof where Peter is said to have had the vision. 
" Arise therefore, get thee down " (Acts, x.). 

We then took a drive through the town. We noticed 
many orange and lemon trees in the fertile gardens. In the 
afternoon we began our journey to Jerusalem. 

We soon entered the celebrated Plain of Sharon, very 
fertile and very beautiful. One of the remarkable events 
that took place upon it was the destruction of the harvest 
of the Philistines when Samson loosed three 'hundred foxes 
with lighted torches tied to their tails. 

The traveler soon reaches Lydda, where the Apostle 
cured the paralytic Eneas. 

x\nd it came to pass that Peter as he passed through visiting 
all, came to the saints who dwelt at Lydda. And he found there 
a certain man named Eneas, who had kept his bed for eight 
years, who was ill of the palsy. And Peter said to him : Eneas, 
the Lord Jesus Christ healeth thee ; arise and make thj- bed. 
And immediately he arose. And all that dwelt in Lydda and 



Across the Plain of Sharon. 185 

Sharon saw him ; who were converted to the Lord. — Acts, ix. 
32-35- 

St. George was born at Lydda. He was martyred by 
Diocletian at Nicomedia in 304. ^Etius, Bishop of Lydda, 
assisted at the Council of Nice, 325. Between Lydda and 
Ramleh the Crusaders fought a victorious battle. We read 
of Joseph of Arimathea, who buried our Blessed Lord, in St. 
John, xix. 38-42. Ramleh is the ancient Arimathea. 

In 1296 the Franciscans settled in Ramleh to preach the 
Gospel and to harbor pilgrims on their way to the holy 
places. During the French expedition in Syria they made 
the monastery their headquarters. When Napoleon departed 
the Musselmen killed all the Franciscans and pillaged the 
place. 

We passed the ancient village of Beit Nuba, which was 
formerly known as Nobi, the City of Priests. There the 
great high priest Achimelech gave the holy bread and the 
sword of Goliath to David. Saul in revenge killed Achi- 
melech and eighty other priests at Nobi. The people also 
were killed, and even the brute animals were slaughtered. 

Tradition places the residence of Dismas, the good thief, 
at Latroun, some eight miles nearer to Jerusalem than Beit 
Nuba. 

As we passed over the Plain of Sharon we were reminded 
that many a fierce battle was fought there by the Israelites 
against the Philistines and many other enemies. The plain 
is slightly undulating and very fertile. It is about seventy 
miles long and twenty miles broad. Primitive methods and 
implements are used in cultivating the soil. It was not a 
very unusual sight to see the ox and the donkey yoked to- 
gether pulling the plow fashioned as in ancient times. As 
we got into the hill country stones and rocks abounded. We 
wondered how the people could live or animals exist. Ter- 
races extending up five or six hundred feet indicated that 



186 First Glimpse op Jerusalem. 

great efforts M^ere being made to cultivate the bleak looking 
hills. 

The narrow-gauge railroad winds in and out among the 
mountains of Judea, climbing on its way to Jerusalem. The 
average speed is about twelve miles an hour, and the cost 
about six cents a mile. 

We crossed the Torrent Terebinthe, from which David 
took the five stones for his sling, with one of which he killed 
Goliath in that valley. As we got nearer to the Holy City 
we saw the dark outlines of the Mountains of Moab rising- 
like an immense wall to the east. 

Silence fell upon the party as we neared our destination, 
and all eyes were strained to get the first glimpse of the 
walls and the buildings of Sion. 

Soon Jerusalem with its towers and its domes broke 
upon our eyes. At last ! At last ! we were in the City of 
the Prophets, the City of Promise, the City of the Cross and 
of Calvary. Here took place the final scene of the awful 
drama of the Crucifixion. What Christian -heart could re- 
main unmoved and what eye of faith could remain undimmed 
at the sight of the Holy Sepulchre? 

In front of the Holy City the pilgrims sing the CXXI. 
Psalm : 

1. I rejoiced at the things that were said to me : We shall go 
into the house of the Lord. 

2. Our feet \Yere standing in thy courts, O Jerusalem. 

3. Jerusalem which is built as a city, which is compact 
together. 

4. For thither did the tribes go up, the tribes of the Lord : 
the te.stimony of Israel, to praise the name of the Lord. 

5. Because their seats have .sat in judgment, seats upon the 
house of David. 

6. Pray ye for the things that are for the peace of Jeru.salem : 
and abundance for them that lOve thee. 

7. Let peace be in thy strength : and abundance in thy 
towers. 



The "Casa Nova." 



187 



S. For the sake of ni}' brethren; and of my neighbors, I 
spoke peace of thee, 

9. Becaiise of the house of the Lord our God, I have sought 
good things for thee. 

The sun was just setting as we reached Jerusalem. I 
went with Father O'Doherty to the " Casa Nova," the hospice 
for pilgrims in charge 
of the Franciscan Fath- 
ers. It is a large stone 
building, five stories 
high. It was filled with 
pilgrims of almost 
every nation and from 
nearly all classes. Ten 
different languages 
were spoken at our 
table. The general 
language among the 
priests is the Latin, and 
that among the people 
French, although Ital- 
ian is also much used. 
I was delighted to find 
a number of letters 
awaiting me. They had not followed, but intercepted me, 
having gone by way of Europe. 

The Monastery and the Church of the Franciscan Fathers 
are near each other. All pilgrims, regardless of national 
or religious distinction, are permitted to lodge and board in 
the Casa Nova. There were a number of women among the 
pilgrims at the Casa Nova. Each may remain sixteen days, 
when properly accredited, without charge. While the pil- 
grims are not taxed, I think each makes a fair offering' 
before departing from Jerusalem. 




father PHILIP, 0. S. F. 
SUPERIOR OF THE CASA NOVA. 



First Night i.\ Jerusalem. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

MASS IN THE HOLY SEPULCHRE — CHAPEL OF THE ANGELS — 

THE CHAPEL OF ECCE HOMO — SISTERS OF SION — SKETCH 

OF FATHER RATISBONNE — BETHLEHEM — THE HOLY 

GROTTO — THE GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE. 

My first night in Jerusalem is deeply imprinted upon my 
memory. The moon shone brightly over the city as I stood 
at the open window of my room in the fourth story at the 
hour of midnight. My mind was busy with all I had read 
and heard of the sacred place from the days of childhood. 
Supplementary to this knowledge came the light and teach- 
ings of Divine Faith. I could see Mount Olivet in the dis- 
tance, and the domes of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. 
The scenes of the first Holy Week came before me, and the 
emotions they excited in my heart brought me to my knees 
with my head bowed upon the window sill. 

I was awakened in the morning at 4 o'clock by the 
tramp and the prayers of the poor pilgrims from Austria on 
their way to the Holy Sepulchre. I prepared to follow them. 
Within the entrance of the church is the stone upon which 
the Body of Christ was laid and anointed after being taken 
from the Cross. It was kissed devoutly by the pilgrims 
who knelt around it. 

I was granted the great privilege of celebrating the Holy 
Sacrifice on the main altar of Mount Calvary itself. I vested 
for Mass. I will not attempt to describe my feelings as 
I ascended the Sacred Mount and approached the hallowed 
spot where our Divine Savior was nailed to the Cross. An- 
other priest was just finishing his Mass as I came to the 
altar. Many pilgrims were kneeling in tearful adoration, 



Exterior op the Holy Sepulchre. 



189 



clustered as close as possible about the Place of Sacrifice — 
the Great Sacrifice of Good Friday and the same sacrifice 
renewed in the Mass. 




exterior of the holy sepulchre. 

What a feeling wells up in the heart of a priest who 
kneels before that altar as he repeats the words: "Judica 
me Deus." 



190 The Holy Sepulchre. 

Quite a number of persons went to Holy Communion 
at my Mass, and among them^ were eight nuns. They 
reminded me of the eight at home engaged in teaching the 
children. 

Mass was over. I had enjoyed a privilege altogether 
unthought of a few months before, and even hardly expected 
when I entered the Holy City. 

The Holy Sepulchre is in the midst of the church. It is 
surrounded by a marble chapel most richly decorated with 
innumerable lamps of great value and beauty. The ante- 
chamber of the Holy Sepulchre is circular in form, and is 
called the " Chapel of the Angel." Fifteen lamps continually 
burn within this chapel. From this ante-chamber, by a very 
small low door, entrance is had to the Holy Sepulchre of Our 
Lord. The walls are still of the natural rock, but are 
covered with marble to save them from the indiscreet devo- 
tion of pilgrims. There is the real tomb of our Loving 
Savior, hewn in the rock. We present a good cut made 
from a photograph taken for the purpose. 

The first night of my arrival I had asked for permission 
to celebrate Mass within the Holy Sepulchre. I was told 
that but three Masses a day were permitted to be cele- 
brated therein; that notice had to be given some time 
in advance and permission obtained, and that there were a 
number of Bishops and other dignitaries and many priests in 
Jerusalem, especially at this time of Holy Week and Easter. 

I had not much expectation of getting the privilege, but 
I had some hope. Imagine my gratification that night, the 
second night of my arrival, when Father Philip, the Superior, 
said that he had arranged for me to celebrate Mass in the 
Holy Sepulchre the next morning, and that he would call me 
to go with him at 4 o'clock. 

When his rap came in the morning I was ready to open 
the door. Strange to say, we were not the first at the 



Chapel of the Angel." 



191 



Sepulchre. When I was vested for Mass, a Bishop came to 
the vestry, but as he appeared I was just leaving for the 
Holy Sepulchre. Being a little fearful that I might have to 
give him precedence I started without delay. 




LNTERIOR OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 



AVith profound feelings of awe and reverence, I passed 
through the outer door and found myself in the Chapel of 



192 Mass in the Holy Sepulchre. 

the Angel. Then stooping with my head almost as low 
as my knees, I passed through the small opening and found 
myself in the very tomb of Our Lord and Savior Jesus Christ. 
With overpowering feelings there came to my mind the 
words and almost the voice of the Angel to Mary Magdalen : 
"Behold the place where they laid Him." Then came the 
other words of the self-same Gospel : "Be not affrighted." 

In the Holy Sepulchre there is room for only the priest 
and the server. The people crowded into the Chapel of 
the Angel." They can get only a glimpse of the celebrant. 
How still and solemn were the surroundings, how overpower- 
ing the memories. I almost expected to see the angel "sit- 
ting on the right side, clothed with a white robe." 

The Mass celebrated on Calvary is always the Mass of the 
Passion of Our Lord ; the Mass in the Holy Sepulchre is al- 
ways the Mass of the Resurrection. In that most sacred 
spot how realistic were the words of the Gospel : 

At that time Mary Magdalene, and Mary the mother of 
James, and Salome, bought sweet spices, that coming they might 
anoint Jesus. And very early in the morning, the first day of the 
week, they come to the monument, the sun being now risen. 
And they said, one to another : Who shall roll us back the stone 
from the door of the sepulchre ? And looking the}^ saw the stone 
rolled back. For it was very great. And entering into the sepul- 
chre, they saw a young man sitting on the right side, clothed 
with a white robe : and they were astonished. Who saith to 
them : Be not affrighted : you seek Jesus of Nazareth, wdio was 
crucified. He is risen : He is not here : behold the place where 
they laid Him. But go, tell His Disciples and- Peter that He 
goeth before you into Galilee : there you will see Him, as He 
told 3-ou. 

I fervently prayed that we all may see Him forever in 
the Kingdom of His Eternal Glory. 

The following morning I went as arranged and celebrated 
the Community Mass at 6 o'clock for the Sisters of Sion in 
the " Ecce Homo " Chapel. 



Chapel of the "Ecce Homo." 



193 



The Chapel of the " Ecce Homo " is at the entrance of the 
house of Pilate. Just over the altar is a large opening- 
spanned by a massive stone arch. Upon this arch is a large 




OUR MOTHER OF SORROWS, CALVARY. 

marble statue of Christ bound and crowned with thorns. 
At this place Pilate showed the " Man of Sorrows," so deeply 
wounded for our sins, to the people, hoping to excite their 
compassion with the words " Ecce Homo " (Behold the man.) 



194 The Sisters op Sion. 

An excavation made at the convent reveals the pave- 
ment of the original street, which is some fourteen feet 
beneath the present street. How time deals with the works 
and the homes and the lives of men! With God "a thous- 
and years are as one day and one day as a thousand years." 

The Chapel of the Sisters of Sion is very beautiful, verj^ 
quiet and very devotional. It could not be other than devo- 
tional with its sacred memories and its situation on the Via 
Dolorosa. 

After celebrating Mass I looked through the register. 
Many visitors evidently go to the Ecce Homo Chapel and 
Convent. Among the names I found several from the United 
States. On the list were the names of some Ohio people, 
viz.: Homer N. Clark, Sandusky; Newton Clalker, Akron; 
Wallace Taylor, D. D., Oberlin; Thomas Hibben, Columbus; 
Mr. and Mrs. John Walder and Miss Walder, Cincinnati; 
Paul Mathews, Cincinnati; Miss H. Sharp, Columbus; Jos. 
H. Marr, Hamilton; Henry C. Wick, Mr. and Mrs. H. C. 
White, Cleveland. The Sisters inquired with kindly interest 
and gratitude about Father Braun, of xVkron. 

The Sisters of Sion have an interesting history. They 
are a comparatively new community, founded by Father 
Ratisbonne, a converted Jew. They teach and care for 
orphans, regardless of their creed or nationality. They 
depend on charity for their support. The Sisters are 
engaged in a good work and are deserving of encourage- 
ment. 

I think that the following sketch of Father Ratisbonne's 
conversion and work will be of general interest : 

On the 2oth of January, 1842, Alphonse Ratisbonne, a Jew, 
noted among his friends for his strong common sense and judg- 
ment, stood scornfully criticising the paintings of the Church of 
St. Andrea della Fratte, Rome. He was an inveterate hater of 
Christianity, especially that represented by the Catholic Church. 
He was smarting under the conversion of his brother to the Cath- 



Sketch op Father Ratisbonne. 195 

olic Faith, and enraged by the squalor he had just seen in the 
Ghetto of Rome, where he was spending some of the time inter- 
vening between his espousal and his marriage with his cousin, a 
lad}^ of wealth, beauty and high attainments, with whom he was 
to receive his uncle's fortune and the bank at Strasburg, in which 
city he was born May i, 1814. His letters and conduct and the 
testimony of all who knew him prove these statements to be true. 
Suddenly all the light in the church seemed concentrated and 
poured into the chapel on the opposite side. Without violence he 
found himself carried swiftly across the church to it and placed 
before the picture of St. Michael. There the Mother of Our Lord 
Jesus Christ appeared to him in the form represented on the medal 
of the Immaculate Conception, called the " Miraculous Medal," 
owing to the numerous miracles of which it has been the instru- 
ment. Ratisbonne had been induced to wear that medal partly 
out of polite condescension to a little child of his acquaint- 
ance, and partly to rid himself of her importunities. The Holy 
Apparition motioned him to kneel, when instantly he received 
infused knowledge of the Catholic Faith and of all the Ever 
Blessed Virgin wished to convey to him. The witness to this 
miraculous apparition and conversion was Theodore de Bussires, 
Bart, who entered the church at the time and found Ratisbonne 
kneeling, giving vent to emotions of repentance and gratitude. 

Father de Villefort, S. J., prepared him for his abjuration and 
reception, and he was baptized into that legitimate continuation 
of God's true religion, the One, Holy, Catholic and Apostolic 
Church, b}^ Cardinal Patrizzi on January 31, 1842, in the Church, 
of Gesu in Rome. To perfect himself in Christian virtue and to 
practice the evangelical counsels, Ratisbonne renounced the world 
and all the attractive advantages- it held out to him and entered 
the Company of Jesus at Rome, where he remained till by an order 
from Pius IX. he formed at Paris, in conjunction with his 
brother Theodore, the Congregation of Notre Dame de Sion for 
the conversion of the Jews. He died at the age of seventy on 
May 6, 1884, near Jerusalem, at St. John's, in the Hill Country, 
where he is buried. The Daughters of Sion then had establish- 
ments of high-class boarding schools, orphanages and patronages, 
in most capitals and other centers of the civilized world. They- 
had four in England, four in America and three in the Holy Land',, 
two at Jerusalem, one of which is the Ecce Homo Sanctuary and 
another near the Sanctuary of the Visitation at St. John's in the. 



196 Bethlehem. 

Hill Countr}- or Aiu Kariin. The members according to the cen- 
sus of 1892 numberel considerably over one thousand, including 
the fathers and brothers. There are one million and a half mem- 
bers of the Christian Mothers, who were also founded by Theodore 
Ratisbonne at the Sion of Paris. The priests of Notre Dame de 
Sion have two houses at Paris, one an ecclesiastical seminarv; and 
an orphanage with college attached at Jerusalem, and chaplain- 
cies in France, Egypt and Turkey. Their headquarters near St. 
Peter's Orphanage is on the traditional spot where Isaiah proph- 
esied the birth of the Messiah (Is. vii. 14). Boys of all creeds and 
races, but especially Jews, are offered a home for seven years, 
during which time the}^ receive an artisan's education, the trade 
congenial to their individual aptitudes being taught by competent 
masters, or are brought up for commercial or professional pursuits 
according to their talents. The boarding, clothing and other 
necessaries are maintained by voluntary contributions. The one 
hundred girls are brought up in a similar manner bj^ the Sisters at 
the Ecce Homo, where there is also an eiflcient dispensary for the 
poor of all creeds and nationalities. There were one hundred 
younger girls at St. John's. Alms in luoney or kind can be given 
at any of the houses. The priests of Our Ladj" of Sion fulfill the 
command given to vSt. Joseph by the angel in Egypt: " Take the 
young child and its mother and go into the Land of Israel, ' ' Jesus 
being represented b}- the youthfvd seminarists, Marj' by the 
Daughters of Sion and the Land of Israel bj' the Jews. The no- 
vitiates for the priests and Sisters are at Paris ; that of the lay 
brothers at Jerusalem. 

At St. Peter's, Jerusalem, locally known as Ratisbonne's 
Institute, we found the only resident English Catholic priest 
in the Holy Land. 

On a Saturday afternoon I went to Bethlehem. On my 
way I stopped at the Convent of the Poor Clares to leave 
with them an alms sent through me for that purpose from 
Cleveland. A high stone wall surrounds the convent. 

The road to Bethlehem is very good, though not at all 
level. The streets of the town are irregular and narrow, but 
it is surrounded by well cultivated valleys. The population is 



The Holy Grotto. 197 

about eleven thousand, six thousand being Latin Catholics, 
and nearly all the rest Greeks. 

I went to the Franciscan Monastery, and thence to the 
Church of St. Catherine, from which I entered the Church of 
the Nativity of Our Blessed Savior. Reverently I descended 
to the Holy Grotto, the stable where the Infant Savior was 



GENERAL VIEW OF BETHLEHEM. 

bom. There, in a semi-circular apse, is enclosed the precise 
place of the birth of the Divine Infant. Near the ground 
and around the apse there burn night and day fifteen rich 
lamps. A slab of white marble covers the floor of the apse. 
Through a circular opening in the center is seen a bluish 
colored stone which is probably of jasper. This is sur- 



198 Mass in the Holy Grotto, 

rounded by a golden star which bears around it this inscrip- 
tion: "Hie de Virgine Maria Jesus Christus Natus est" 
(Here Jesus Christ was born of the Virgin Mary) . 

Quickly and joyfully I fell upon my knees and reverently 
kissed the jasper stone and the golden star. There came to 
my mind the words from St. Luke, ii. : 

And suddenly there was with the angel a multitude of the 
heavenly arm}-, praising God and saying : 

Glory to God in the highest : and on earth peace to men of 
good will. 

The earliest and sweetest memories of Christian child- 
hood and of more mature years cluster about the Crib of 
Bethlehem. Thence came the good tidings of great joy — to 
all the people. Ah, little do we realize the condescending 
love of Our Infant Savior, little do we realize the value of our 
immortal souls! How humble the home to which the Creator 
of the world was forced by His love for us, so little worthy 
of that love. How gladly and richly Christian affection has 
adorned the place of His birth. 

Again and again I said : " Is it possible that I am in the 
Stable of Bethlehem ? Can it be that I am kneeling on the 
spot where Jesus Christ, the long expected of nations and of 
ages, was born ? " 

Reluctantly I left the consecrated spot as the shades of 
night were falling. But I left to return. 

At Bethelehem but two Masses can be celebrated on one 
day. The first Mass is celebrated at 3:30, and the other at 
about 8 :30 a. m. Fortunately I was permitted on Palm Sun- 
day to celebrate Mass in the Holy Grotto. All available 
room was taken, and the steps leading down to it were 
crowded with devout worshipers. The words " Domine, non 
sum dignus " were upon my lips as I approached the altar in 
the place so sanctified by Our Blessed Lord. 

The spirit of the Crusaders must stir the bosom of the 



Gethsemane. 



199 



many Christians who visit the Holy Land. The Turks are in 
possession. They intrude every place. The Turkish soldiers 
are on guard at the portals and about the Holy Sepulchre ; 
they stand at the entrance of Gethsemane ; they are about 
the Church and in the Crib of Bethlehem with loaded 
muskets, and on guard as in war times. On Sunday after- 




CHAPEL AT GETHSEMANE. 



noon while I knelt saying the Rosary in the Holy Grotto of 
Bethlehem I was near enough to touch the soldier on guard. 
Further on more will be said about this condition of things. 

Sunday night I left the Franciscan Monastery and re- 
turned to Jerusalem. The next morning at 6 o'clock I was 
at the Garden of Gethsemane. After waiting for about an 
liour I was permitted to celebrate Mass upon the main altar. 



200 Mass at Gethsemane. 

Three Masses were being celebrated at the same time in the 
Holy Shrine. The altar is richly decorated with golden 
vases and urns. 

I was filled with gratitude for the great privilege of 
being permitted to celebrate Mass at the place of our 
Blessed Lord's Agony. " Could you not watch one hour 
with Me ! " was his complaint then. The indifference and 
coldness of His own is His complaint now. The devotion to 
His Sacred Heart is softening the hardness of ours, and pre- 
paring us to accept His loving invitations. May this beau- 
tiful and fruitful devotion spread widely, the better to insure 
for ourselves eternal salvation. 



Good Friday in Jerusalem. 201 



CHAPTER XIX. 

GOOD FRIDAY IN JERUSALEM — IN THE ACTUAL FOOTSTEPS OF 

THE CRUCIFIED ONE — EASTER MASS — A MEMORABLE 

EXCURSION — THE DEAD SEA AND RIVER JORDAN — 

SPOTS ASSOCIATED WITH THE MESSIAH'S LIFE. 

It is Good Friday. Good Friday in Jerusalem! How the 
Christian heart is moved amid the very scenes of our Blessed 
Lord's suffering and death. As our feet tread the ways 
sanctified by His footsteps and we kneel and kiss on the Via 
Dolorosa the sacred places of that sorrowful journey from 
Pilate's house to Calvary's summit, we realize with crushed 
hearts something of the enormity of sin, and the unspeak- 
able price paid for our salvation. With tears in the voice 
and sobs in the heart the pilgrims utter the preparatory 
prayer: 

Sweet Jesus ! Who for love of me passed on this bitter way 
laden with the heavy cross ! Through love for Thee I am abotit 
to follow the sorrowful path and meditate on Thy Holy Passion ! 

merciful Jesus ! The sinner now at Thy feet is the one who b}' 
his manifold sins caused Thy bitter Passion and Death. 

The pilgrims are of all nations, and from all classes.. 
Their sacrifices, their faith and their piety are touching. 
While I would like to dwell upon this subject now, I feel that 

1 am anticipating. 

The Way of the Cross is made publicly in Jerusalem on 
Friday afternoons. This devotion is especially touching and 
pathetic on Good Friday. The pilgrims pass along the same 
streets and stop at the very places where our Lord Jesus 
Christ bore the heavy weight of the Cross. Many of the 
surroundings and circumstances of that day of suffering 



202 In the Footsteps of the Crucified One. 

beset the pilgrims who to-day perform that holy exercise 
in the streets of Jerusalem. 

On Good Friday afternoon we left in procession from 
Casa Nova for the Via Dolorosa. After walking nearly a 
mile we arrived at the barracks of the Turkish soldiers. 
We ascended the incline and passed through the gates 
and found ourselves in the very same barracks in which 
Pilate delivered our Blessed Lord to be crucified. Moved to 
tears, the pilgrims reverently kissed the ground. The pagan 
soldiers looked on and mocked. The eloquent Franciscan 
Father spoke touchingly of the delivery of our Lord to be 
crucified for our sins. From station to station he graphi- 
cally presented the subject for meditation. After the usual 
prayers all moved from the barracks singing the "Stabat 
Mater." 

The II. Station, " Jesus Laden With the Cross," is out on 
the Via Dolorosa. The crowd filled the narrow street from 
wall to wall for more than a block. All nations and all 
classes were represented. There were several Bishops and 
many priests, brothers and nuns; the titled nobility knelt 
side by side on the dirty streets with the humble peasants 
and artisans. The strong faith and deep devotion of this 
multitude were touching. 

Near this station is the Chapel of the Scourging. I 
entered the place on Good Friday morning. It is said that 
Mustafa Bey, son of the Pasha of Jerusalem, turned it into 
a stable in 1618. The next morning he found his horses all 
dead. The horses that followed also died. Mustafa, alarmed, 
sought the reason. He was told by his wise men that the 
place was held in the greatest veneration by the Christians 
as the Place of the Flagellation of Christ. This sacred place 
was restored to the Franciscans in 1838. By the munifi- 
cence of Maximillian, Duke of Bavaria, they were enabled to 
build a church on the scene of the Scourging. 



In the Footsteps of the Crucified One. 203 

The III. Station, "The First Fall," is on the corner of a 
street where there is a Catholic Church. 

The IV. Station, " Where Jesus Met His Holy Mother," is 
near the corner where a lane runs into the street. 

Nearby I was shown a building which is said to have been 
the home of Dives, the rich man mentioned in St. Luk'e, xvi. 

By this time the rabble had gathered, and those who 
composed it made much noise and confusion. The Turkish 
guards we had were necessary to clear the way and to intim- 
idate the Jews and the Musselmen. 

The V. Station, "The Cyrenian is Forced to Help Jesus to 
Carry the Cross," is about one hundred and iifty feet away 
from the IV. Station and at the entrance of a narrow street 
that runs westward. There is a small chapel in the house 
at the V. Station. 

About five hundred feet further west in the same street 
we reached the VI. Station, and the house of the compas- 
sionate woman, Veronica. The dense crowd of pilgrims 
blocked the way completely. Some, myself among the num- 
ber, entered the house of Veronica, which is now a chapel. 

About three hundred feet onward we reached " the site 
of the Gate of Judgment" and of the VII. Station, "The 
Second Fall of Our Blessed Savior." There is a cross street 
at this place. By accident or by design the rabble here was 
very large, the noise and confusion were great and the 
guards had to use force. An effort was made to drive a 
number of donkeys through the procession. The Franciscan 
continued to preach and the people to pray and sing the 
processional hymn. 

About one hundred and fifty feet west is the VIII. Station 
where " Jesus consoled the women of Jerusalem." It is at 
the wall of the Greek Convent of St. Catherine. 

From the VIII. to the IX. Station, "The Third Fall of 
Jesus Under the Cross," there is no direct way on account of 



204 An Incident. 

buildings. We had to go back and take the first street on 
the right. About five hundred feet south on that street is a 
passageway by which we entered. The v/ay was filthy. We 
ascended a wide open stone public stairway. At a distance 
of about four hundred feet, near the gate of the Copt Con- 
vent, is the IX. Station. 

The last five stations are within the space covered by the 
Basilica of the Holy Sepulchre. To reach the entrance we 
had to return down the stairway and take the street to the 
right. 

On this street a fanatical Musselman intentionally threw 
himself violently against Count Moore, who was in the pro- 
cession. The Musselman throttled a man who remonstrated. 
The sergeant in charge of the procession put the Musselman 
under arrest. He resisted. Three soldiers off duty sympa- 
thized with the culprit, and went to his aid. The row was 
growing as I passed on. Near the Church of the Holy 
Sepulchre I met the commanding officer hastening to the 
scene of the disturbance. 

We performed the last four stations on Calvary. At the 
devotion of the XIV. Station the pilgrims gathered about 
the Tomb of Our Crucified Lord, which is under the great 
dome of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. 

Memorable indeed AviU be that Way of the Cross. How 
little changed are many of the people of to-day from those 
who upon those streets cried out in the time of Pilate : 
" Crucify Him ! Crucify Him ! ! " The condition of the 
people, the city, and its history itself testify that upon them 
has fallen the curse : " His blood be upon us and upon our 
children." 

On Easter Sunday morning at 6 o'clock I made my way 
to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Pontificial High Mass 
had just begun. The crowd was dense, so dense that I could 
not make my way through. I was leaving the church much 



Chapel of the Apparition. 



205 



disappointed that I could not celebrate Mass in the Church 
of the Holy Sepulchre on Easter Sunday when a large man 
wearing a red fez asked me: " Do you want to get through?" 
Then he added : " Follow me ! " 




CHAPEL OF THE APPARITION. 



How he pushed and scolded, and got scolded back. I bade 
him never mind. He insisted and took me by the wrist. 



i 



206 Easter Mass. 

I said: "You cannot get through the line of soldiers." He 
replied: "Yes I can; they know me." Sure enough, he got 
me through. I do not know who the man was. I certainly 
expected that in accordance with the prevalent custom of 
the country he would expect and wait for an offering. I was, 
considering his great service, most willing to remunerate 
him, but to my surprise he had disappeared and I never met 
him afterwards. 

After the Pontificial Mass and the Solemn Procession, at 
the request of the Superior, I celebrated the 9 o'clock Mass 
on the main altar in the " Chapel of the Apparition." There 
are three altars in the chapel, and Mass was being cele- 
brated on each when I entered. 

Tradition teaches that the Blessed Virgin did not leave 
the Holy Sepulchre after her Divine Son had been placed in 
the tomb. She stood at some distance on account of the 
soldiers who guarded the Sepulchre. 

Our Risen Lord showed Himself to her on that spot, and 
hence the chapel erected there is called the " Chapel of the 
Apparition." It was on that same spot that the dead man 
was raised to life when St. Macaire and St. Helen touched 
him with the True Cross. Hence the place where I stood to 
celebrate Mass was holy. 

On the main altar of that chapel the Blessed Sacrament 
is kept. There night and day the divine office is chanted by 
the monks who remain in the Monastery of the Holy Sepul- 
chre. I gave Holy Communion to quite a large number. 

Easter Monday I started with F. Clark's American party 
from .Jerusalem to Jericho, thence to the Dead Sea and the 
Jordan. Father O'Doherty did not go with us. I was the 
only Catholic in the company. All were mounted. I had re- 
quested Mr. Clark to provide me with a good horse. I found 
that my charger was a grey stallion and a very rough riding 
animal. 



A Memorable Excursion. 



207 



The day was extremely hot — 120 ° in the sun. The re- 
flection from the chalk and limestone roadway added to the 
intensity of the heat. Most of the way is down hill, as the 
Dead Sea is some four thousand feet lower than Jerusalem. 
Wishing to have some protection from the sun I raised my 
umbrella. The charger unexpectedly raised old Nick. Off 




SCENE OF THE GOOD SAMARITAN EPISODE. 



he went on a gallop. He appeared to be trying to get 
away from the umbrella. With that open in one hand I 
tried to curb the beast with the other. I finally got the um- 
brella closed and stopped the steed. But I could not ride 
unprotected from the sun, as I feared sunstroke. There 
were two or three more scenes and gallops, but the umbrella 



208 On the Road to Jericho. 

finally remained open. The horse had a rough gait and a 
limber neck, a very unpleasant combination. 

On one of my involuntary fast rides one of the ministers 
asked as I passed him : "Father, where are you going ?" 

"To Jericho," I replied. 

My horse took one of his starts near the top of a hill, the 
roadway of which was covered with rough stones. The hill 
was quite long. I noticed that the road turned at right 
angles at the bottom of the hill and passed over a bridge 
devoid of side protections. I feared that I could not guide 
the horse on the rather sudden turn on to the bridge, and 
that we might go over the side into the ravine, which would 
probably end my round-the-world tour. Fortunately I got 
across safely. Then I spurred the beast up the long hill on 
the other side, much against his will. He was winded and 
tamed when we got to the summit. 

On the way we had lunch under a tent at the place which 
is designated as the spot where the Good Samaritan found 
the man who had fallen among thieves. We remained there 
about two hours. 

That spot between Jerusalem and Jericho is an ideal 
place for robbery. The surrounding country is wild and 
hilly and uninhabited. Even now the government does not 
permit travelers to make the journey unless they are prop- 
erly guarded. Though our party was large, we were pro- 
vided with guards. 

The way to Jericho is rough and uneven. We were all 
much fatigued as Jericho appeared in the distance about 
5 p. m. We first saw that historic spot from the summit of 
a hill. It looked small and insignificant. When we got 
down the hill to go to our camping ground we had to cross 
a running stream. Mr. Clark cried out : 

" Do not let your horses stop, as they are tired and will 
lie down with you in the water unless you spur them on. " 



Temptation. 209 

I was so tired and dusty and thirsty myself that I 
secretly wished that mine would take a bath. 

We camped just under the Mount of Temptation, where 
our Lord fasted forty days and forty nights. It is a very 
picturesque place. Our camp was nicely situated. The 
tents were commodious and comfortable, and placed in a 
semi-circular form. 

George W. Robinson, M. D., of Los Angeles, Gal, and 
Howard Spellman, Esq., of New York Gity, and I were as- 
signed to the same tent. It was called the " Tent of the 
Professions," since in it were represented medicine, law and 
theology. 

I was extremely thirsty after the long, hard ride from 
Jerusalem. My lips and my palate were parched and I felt 
that a drink would be more desirable than a fortune. Just 
then a package was brought into the tent with the words : 
" This was sent for you from the Casa Nova." When I 
opened it I was rejoiced to find that it contained a bottle of 
wine. It was securely corked. I then bethought myself 
that I was a member and officer of the G. T. A. U. of A. 
Conflicting thoughts filled my mind as I walked a number of 
times about the bottle and reached out now and then to try 
if the cork was very fast. I finally concluded that I would 
remain as I had been from boyhood, a total abstainer. 

Soon after I walked out from the tent and went over a 
hill nearby. I was delighted to find a running brook of clear 
water, which was more dear to me that nectar. 

' ' Till taught b}' pain 
Men really know not what good water's worth ; 
If you had been in Turkey or in Spain, 
Or with a famished boat's-crew had your berth, 
Or in the desert heard the camel's bell 
You'd wish yourself where Truth is — in a well." 

— Byron. 

When supper was announced I had concluded to remain 



210 The Dead Sea. 

in the tent, as I was too tired to leave it. Rev. Dr. Camp- 
bell and Mr. Clark insisted on my going to the dining tent, 
at least for a dish of soup. I told them that if the table 
were high enough I would prefer to take my soup standing. 

Previous to this Dr. Campbell had called at the tent and 
asked if I had any objection to a blessing being asked at the 
meal. '' Father," he said, "we do not wish to do anything 
to which you might object." I replied that I thought all 
persons ought to invoke a blessing on their food, and also 
return thanks after their meals. 

When I reached the tent all were in their places but not 
eating. I was, to my surprise, placed at the head of the 
table and invited to invoke the Divine blessing. Being the 
only Catholic in the party, and a number of ministers being 
present, I expressed my surprise at the unexpected honor. 
However, without any further delay, I invoked a blessing on 
our food. 

We arose at 5 o'clock the next morning, got breakfast 
and at 6 we were mounted and began our journey to the 
Dead Sea. Five of the party felt too fatigued to join us, 
and remained in camp. Rev. Dr. Sanford, of Port Jervis, 
N. Y., was quite sick. The next day he had to be sent in a 
carriage to Jerusalem, a victim of typhoid fever. 

We arrived at the Dead Sea at about 9 a. m. It was not 
long before several of the party were trying the efficacy of a 
bath in its deep and very salty brine. The body floats as a 
cork upon the water. It is impossible to sink. There is a 
tendency of the feet to come to the surface. The water is 
bitter and sticky. It burns the eyes. When the head is 
forced beneath the water's surface it becomes difficult to 
comb the hair for some days thereafter. 

The apple of Sodom appears to be the principal fruit 
that grows in the vicinity of the Dead Sea. It is yellow, 
and much resembles the fruit which grows on the potato 



The River Jordan. 211 

vine. The neighborhood is bleak and barren and covered 
with sand hills. 

The Dead Sea is about fifty miles long and ten miles wide. 
" Ten just men " would have saved the wicked cities buried 
beneath its bitter waters. In punishment of their detestable 
crimes "Heaven rained down on Sodom and Gomorrah fire 
and brimstone " (Gen., xix. 24). 

We left the Dead Sea and went to the Jordan, where we 
arrived before noon. We stopped at the place where our 
Lord was baptized by St. John the Baptist. We passed for 
near a mile through a lot of bushes that grew higher than 
the horses. In this place I got separated from the rest of 
the cavalcade. The sensation was not pleasant. No bridle 
path was visible. Not knowing the way myself and appre- 
hensive that I might meet some roving Bedouins, I trusted 
to the horse to find the way. I threw the bridle lines on 
the pommel of the saddle and permitted my Rosenante to go 
his own way. He twisted in and out for some time and after 
awhile he pricked up his ears and whinnied. He got an 
answering neigh, and soon we joined the party. I did not 
tell anyone that I had been lost on the way from the Dead 
Sea to the Jordan. 

As the Jordan has a fall of seven hundred and sixteen 
feet in sixty miles its current is very rapid. It is a danger- 
ous place in which to bathe. I heard that the week before a 
tourist lost his life in the river and his body was swept 
away. 

The country around about is the Eden of Palestine. 
" Lot on the point of separating from iVbraham, raising his 
eyes, saw the plain about the Jordan, which before the 
destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah was all watered like the 
garden of Jehovah and the Land of Egypt as one comes to 
Segor" (Gen., xiii. 10). 

Where we stopped the Israelites crossed the Jordan dry- 



212 The Legend op St. Christopher^ — Galgal. 

footed and entered the Promised Land. Josue took from 
the bed of the river twelve stones and placed them as a 
monument to remind the people of the miracle they had just 
witnessed in the separation of the waters for their passage. 
(Josue, iv. 16, etc.) 

At the same place the Prophet Elias struck the waters 
with his cloak and they separated. 

Here, Naaman, struck with leprosy, came by order of the 
Prophet Eliseus to bathe, and was cured. (IV. Kings, v. 10.) 

The Legend of St. Christopher is also attached to the 
spot where we stopped. He carried passengers free from 
one shore to the other. He was well rewarded because one 
day unknown to him he carried the Infant Jesus, who came 
in that way to let St. Christopher know how pleasing was 
his good work for the sake of sweet charity. 

Opposite that place St. Mary of Egypt died after thirty- 
three years of peace and penance. 

We took dinner at the Greek Monastery of St John the 
Baptist. It is about a mile distant from the Jordan. It is 
said that St. John dwelt on that spot for several years 
before he began his public ministry. I found that the 
brother who waited on us was a German. We had a little 
talk in his native tongue, which pleased him very much. 

We went out of our way to reach the scene of Galgal, 
the first encampment of the people of God in the Land of 
Promise. Josue raised there an altar of twelve stones which 
he had taken from the bed of the Jordan, in memory of the 
passage so miraculously made. There they ate the fruit of 
the Promised Land, and the Manna ceased to fall. 

The Ark of the Covenant remained at Galgal six years 
until it was brought to Siloe. There Samuel came every 
year to dispense justice. (I. Kings, vii. 15-1 6.) 

There Saul was acknowledged King of Israel and there 
Samuel announced his reprobation for having presumed to 



Jericho. 213 

offer sacrifice to God against His command. (I. Kings, xiii. 
13-14.) 

Galgal now presents no sign of the wonderful events 
that transpired there. There is not a stone upon a stone. 
It is a pasturage. 

We passed through Jericho, the site of the first city so 
wonderfully captured by the Israelites. It is not now a city. 
There are two small hotels and a few hovels, and only one 
building of any pretension. 

Against Jericho Jesus uttered a curse : "Accursed be- 
fore the Lord be the man who rebuilds this city; may its 
foundations fall on his first-born and its gates on the last of 
his children." When Hiel of Bethel made the attempt the 
■curse fell upon him. 

Our Lord Jesus Christ passed a night at Jericho. 

" And entering in He walked through Jericho. And behold, 
there was a man named Zacheus, who was the chief of the pub- 
licans, and he was rich."^ — St. Luke xix. 1-2. 

Our camp was only about two miles from Jericho. We 
reached it at 4 p. m. 

After a short rest I went to the Fountain of Eliseus, 
nearby, and there read my breviary. This fountain has a 
very interesting and instructive history. 

The inhabitants of Jericho complained to the Prophet 
Eliseus, of the badness of the water of that spring. He 
bade them bring him a new pitcher with some salt. He 
went to the spring and threw in the salt, saying : " Thus 
saith the Lord : I have purified these waters and neither 
death nor barrenness shall ever more come out from them " 
{IV. Kings, ii. 19, etc.). 

The water is very clear and sweet. As it went on its 
murmuring way I stooped down and took a drink and bathed 
my hands in the purling brook as it went on its course 
towards Jericho. 



214 Bethania. 

Guards watched about the tents all night, as experience 
has demonstrated that it is not safe to be without them. 

The next morning we arose at 4 o'clock and soon were 
ready and partook of breakfast. We started back for Jeru- 
salem at 5. We got well on our way before the sun rose 
and thus avoided much of the intense heat we had experi- 
enced on the journey from Jerusalem. 

We took lunch at Bethania. We visited there the Tomb 
of Lazarus. We entered by a small opening and descended 
twenty-seven steps made in 1537 by the Franciscans, the 
Musselmen having built a mosque over the ancient entrance. 
The Gospel concerning the miraculous resurrection is well 
known. It is contained in St. John, xi. 

We then paid a visit to the ruins of the home of Martha 
and Mary. The house had been in a quiet, restful place, and 
nicely situated. 

We got back to the Casa Nova a little after noon, 
Bethania being only three miles from Jerusalem. 

Count Moore, of County Tipperary, Ireland, was my next 
neighbor at the table. I asked him if he had heard anything 
during my absence of the Musselman arrested for the dis- 
turbance on Good Friday. He had not yet heard of the re- 
sult of the Musselman's arrest. But he said that in Turkish 
courts a Christian's oath will not stand against the oath of a 
Musselman, and hence he did not think anything would be 
done to that fanatic. 



Founding of the City of Sion. 215 



CHAPTER XX. 
wonderful and sacred memories clustering about the 

CITY OF sion — mementoes OF THE GRAND DRAMA 
OF REDEMPTION — NOTED PLACES MEN- 
TIONED IN SACRED SCRIPTURE. 

The city of Jerusalem must ever be a place of deep in- 
terest to Christians the world over. This interest deepens 
and intensifies for those who come from afar to visit the 
places hallowed by our Divine Lord and blessed by the pres- 
ence of His Immaculate Mother and by the conversion and 
confirmation of the Apostles by the Holy Ghost and their 
first works in establishing the Church. 

Jerusalem, we are told, was founded on a mountain 
called Akra, in the year 2023 B. C, by the holy priest Mel- 
chisedech, who was also King of Salem, which signifies peace. 
After an existence of fifty years Salem fell into the hands of 
the Jebusites, who were the descendants of Jebus, son of 
Chanaan. Jebus built a fortress on Mount Sion. This mount 
was separated from Mount Akra by the valley of Tyropaeon. 
Jebus and Salem being united gave Jerusalem. Thence 
came the name Jerusalem, which signifies " A^ision of Peace." 

Five hundred years after the foundation of Jerusalem 
Josue conquered the Promised Land. The Israelites entered 
Jerusalem and dwelt there with the Canaanites. However, 
the Jebusites were masters until about 1047 B. C, when 
David maae himself master of the city, and placed therein 
the Ark of the Covenant. 

I need not follow the varied history of Jerusalem and its 
people, punished often by war, exile and slavery, for their 
ingratitude and their sins by Almighty God. 



216 Valley of Jehosophat — "Field of Blood." 

As the Prophet had foretold, the sceptre passed to the 
stranger. Pompey took possession of the country as a 
Roman province in 63 B. C. The time predicted for the 
coming of the Messiah approached. "He came unto His 
own and His own received Him not." We know of the visit 
of the. Three Kings and the subsequent massacre of the 
children by Herod. Christ was rejected by His own. 

As Christ had foretold, the enemies of Jerusalem " cast a 
trench around about her and beat her flat to the ground 
and left of the temple not a stone upon a stone." As I 
stood upon the spot where Christ had spoken that sentence 
as He overlooked the city, I could not but believe that all 
His predictions will be as exactly fulfilled. Between Him 
and the city over which He wept was the great Valley 
of Jehosophat. The Prophet Joel and the usual teaching 
indicate that the General Judgment will take place there. 
Our Lord when going to Mount Olivet and to Bethania must 
have often passed through that valley. One side of it is 
enclosed by Mount Olivet, Mount Scopus and Mount Scandal. 
On the opposite side are Mount Bezetha, Mount Moriah and 
the Hill Ophel. The slope on the right is studded with Mus- 
selman tombs, and that on the left with Jewish. There are 
also the tombs of Absalom, Zachary, and of St. James the 
Less. 

In that valley King Asa, at the beginning of his reign, 
burned the idol of Priapus, or the idol of voluptuousness. 
Josias burned the idol of sacred wood, and cast the ashes 
over the graves of the people. 

As we looked from the wall of the temple the field of 
Haceldama, or the " Field of Blood," the land purchased with 
the Blood of Christ, was pointed out to me away to the 
east. 

The belief that in this valley all the descendants of Adam 
will assemble for the Last Judgment is also held by the Mus- 



The Turks and the Holy Sepulchre. 217 

selmen. They teach that the Bridge of Snath will reach 
from the top of Mount Moriah across the Valley of Jehoso- 
phat to the top of the Mount of Olives ; that the bridge will 
be as narrow as the edge of a razor. They declare that 
after men's good and evil deeds have been weighed in the 
balance of Divine Justice all will have to mount the Bridge 
of Suath. The just will have nothing to fear, for their 
guardian angels will lead them safely across. The wicked 
will lose their balance, will fall into the Valley of Jehoso- 
phat, and thence will be cast into hell. 

Serious and solemn thoughts must enter into the mind of 
the Christian who overlooks that valley. " Remember thy 
last end and thou shalt never sin." 

During my two weeks' stay in Jerusalem I visited and 
made somewhat of a study of many sacred places. Much 
more time could be occupied with profit in that ancient and 
Holy City. 

I will briefly recount what I found in my visits to the 
Basilica of the Holy Sepulchre: 

This basilica covers Calvary and the place of our Blessed 
Lord's Tomb. St. Helen discovered the True Cross, and in 
-326 A. D., embellished the Holy Sepulchre. In 614 Chosroes 
IT. ravaged the city of Jerusalem and destroyed the basilica. 
In the beginning of the Tenth century Haroun-al-Raschid 
sent the keys* of the Holy Sepulchre solemnly to the Em- 
peror Charlemagne. The Crusaders took possession in 1099, 
but it fell into the hands of Saladin in 1187. Through 
Frederick II. it was restored for a short time to the Chris- 
tians. But for nearly seven hundred years it has been under 
the control of the Musselman. I saw at and within its por- 
tals the Turks on guard. They must be paid to open the 
doors of the Holy Sepulchre. They keep the keys, and when 
in the afternoon or evening they lock the gates the monks 
who reside within are virtual prisoners. Their only means 



218 In the Holy Sepulchre. 

of communication then with the outside world is by an iron 
grating through which they receive their food. When the 
gates are opened in the morning they may pass out. The 
Turkish guards bearing muskets are always at the doors. 
One evening while I was there at Tenebrae the signal was 
given by .the Turks at 5 : 30 for all to leave or they would be 
locked up for the night. A number who did not understand 
the warning were actually locked in, and had to remain until 
the next morning. 

Six different nationalities officiate in the Basilica of the 
Holy Sepulchre, and each has its own peculiar rite or form 
of worship. The Franciscans, established in the Holy Land 
since 1222, represent the Catholics. Then there are the 
non-united Greeks, the non-united Armenians, the Copts, the 
Abyssinians and the Syrians. The five last are not Catholics, 
nor do they call themselves Catholics, nor are they known as 
such. 1 had supposed that they still claimed the old title, 
the title in the Apostles' Creed. I was pleased to find that 
they all acknowledged that the grand title " Catholic " 
belongs alone to the Apostolic Church. While they differ 
but a little from us in doctrines, the lines are very sharply 
drawn, with no indications of indifferentism. 

The representatives of the first four sects named have 
their own chapels and dwell within the basilica. This, as 
can be readily understood, is a very large b'uilding. The 
Latins, the Greeks, the Armenians and the Copts have the 
right to burn lamps before and within the Holy Sepulchre, 
and at the Stone of Unction, or the Anointing Stone. On 
Calvary the Latins and the Greeks have the exclusive right. 
The Franciscans or the Latins have the exclusive right to 
celebrate Mass at and within the Holy Sepulchre. The num- 
ber is limited to three Masses daily. When we enter the 
basilica the first sanctuary is the "Annointing Stone." 
Joseph of Arimathea and Nicodemus, after having taken the 



Chapels in the Holy Sepulchre. 219 

Body of our Lord from the cross, placed it here to embalm it 
according to Jewish custom. 

On the left, i. e., to the west, about twenty-five feet, is 
marked the place where the holy women stood while the em- 
balming took place. About twenty-five feet thence, and a 
little to the right, is the Holy Sepulchre. The ante-chamber 
of the Holy Sepulchre is the Chapel of the Angel. Fifteen 
lamps burn within it continually. I wrote before of the Holy 
Sepulchre, but I did not state that forty-three very rich and 
very beautiful lamps burn there perpetually. East of the 
Holy Sepulchre is the Chapel of the Greeks ; west is the Copt 
Chapel ; and opposite is the Syrian Chapel. About twenty- 
five feet north is the Chapel of St. Mary Magdalene, where 
our Lord appeared to her after His resurrection. To the 
north of this is the Chapel of the Apparition, of which I have 
written. It is the chapel of the Franciscans. In the sac- 
risty are preserved the spurs and the sword of Godfrey de 
Bouillion. Towards the southwest is the Chapel of St. 
Longinus, the soldier who was converted after he had pierced 
our Lord's side. 

Some distance further on we descend by twenty-nine 
steps to the Chapel of St. Helen. From this chapel we de- 
scend thirteen steps to the Chapel of the Finding of the 
Cross. This chapel belongs to the Franciscans. The Chapel 
of St. Helen is built on the spot where she prayed whilst the 
laborers were searching for the True Cross. 

Returning up the forty-two steps we find in the nave a 
chapel which contains the Pillar of Opprobrium, upon which 
our Lord sat whilst crowned with thorns. Under Calvary is 
the Chapel of Adam. It belongs to the Greeks. It is said 
that the skull of Adam reposes therein. There are chapels 
dedicated to St. John, St. Michael, the Twelve Apostles, 
Abraham and Isaac. 

While writing about the Basilica of the Holy Sepluchre I 



220 Tower of David — Tomb of St. Mac aire. 

might have stated that Chosroes II. of Persia carried away 
the True Cross. After a war of ten years' duration the 
Christian Emperor Heraclius conquered the King of Persia 
and obliged the successor of Chosroes to restore the True 
Cross. Heraclius, barefooted and followed by his soldiers, 
carried the Cross of Christ to Calvary. This is the origin of 
the Feast of the Exaltation of the Cross, which is celebrated 
May 3. 

Passing through the Jaffa Gate in Jerusalem and taking 
the first street to the right we come immediately to the 
Tower of David. It is the site of the former palace of that 
King. The crescent in white on a red field waves above it. 
The tower is the citadel. It is occupied by Turkish troops 
and commands the city. 

We pass on and arrive at the site of the house of St. 
Thomas the Apostle. A mosque is built thereon, but is not 
used, as the Musselmen believe it to be unlucky. Nearby is 
the site of the house of Annas. A convent is built upon it. 

We passed along a narrow street for about a furlong and 
came to the Armenian Cathedral of St. James the Greater. 
He was martyred there by Herod Agrippa, after his return 
from Spain, whither he had gone to preach the Gospel. In 
Acts, xii. 2, we read : "And he killed James, the brother of 
John, with the sword." The Franciscans officiate in this 
church on the feast of St. James, July 25. 

Here is also shown the tomb of St. Macaii*e. I was 
brought to a large chapel within the church wherein three 
stones are preserved behind a wire grating. One is from 
Mount Sinai, another from Mount Tabor, and the other from 
the Jordan. These stones are to be touched by those who 
can not carry out their desire to visit the places from which 
the stones came. A little further on, the base of a pillar 
marks the place where the Apostles were stopped by the 
Jews while they were carrying the body of the Blessed 



The House of Caiphas. 



221 



Virgin Mary to the tomb. It is related that a Jewish 
priest who touched the coffin had his hands fastened thereto 
and his arm stiffened. The rest of the Jews were stricken 
blind. They were cured by the intercession of the Apostles. 
Terrified by their punishment, and rejoiced by their restora- 
tion, they were all converted and baptized. 




ROOM OP THE LAST SUPPER. 



Westward a short distance we came to the site of the 
house of Caiphas, where Christ was interrogated, where 
Peter denied Him, and w^here our Lord was imprisoned from 
Thursday to Good Friday. A detailed relation will be found 
in St. John, xviii. On Pentecost Monday the Franciscans 



222 The C^cnaculum. 

exercise the right for twenty-four hours to recite in the 
Ccenaculum the Offices of the Church and to celebrate Mass. 

Near this place are the cemeteries and also the site of 
the dwelling to which St. John took the Queen of Sorrows 
after the sad scene on Calvary. 

I knelt before the altar in the house of Caiphas and 
prayed in the narrow prison of our Blessed Lord. 

Passing out and back a short distance and continuing on 
the road we left we came to the Ceenaculum, the upper room 
where the Last Supper was celebrated. (St. Luke xxii. 
14-20.) Sad to say, while empty and apparently neglected, 
it is attached to a mosque. The Musselmen would not per- 
mit us to say public prayers therein. 

How sacred is that place, and how hallowed by holy 
scenes and consecrated memories ! There was instituted 
the Blessed Sacrament and the Sacrament of Confirmation. 
There Christ washed the feet of His Disciples, promised the 
Holy Ghost, foretold the treason of Judas and the denial of 
Peter. In St. John, xiii., we read it all. 

It was to the Csenaculum that Christ came after His 
resurrection to greet the Apostles, and eight days after that 
to convince St. Thomas that He had truly risen, and taught 
the lesson : "Blessed are they that have not seen and have 
believed." We read of that in St. John, xx. In that room St. 
Matthew was chosen to take the place of Judas in the Apos- 
tolic College. There came the Holy Ghost in the form of 
tongues of fire ; there St. James became Bishop of Jeru- 
salem, and there St. Stephen and the six other Deacons were 
placed in office. The Franciscans had had charge there for 
a long time, during which two hundred of their number were 
martyred. The Musselmen claim that within this building is 
the Tomb of David, but the claim is not well founded. I was 
shown the canopy which is said to cover his tomb. 

Attempts have been made to purchase the Ccenaculum. 



Church op St. Ann — Gate of St. Stephen. 223 

but even a million dollars in gold does not tempt the Turk. 
Fear of the effect upon his fanatical people prevents the 
Sultan from selling the building. At one time it was thought 
that he would present it to the German Emperor as a 
memorial of his late visit to Jerusalem, but unfortunately 
he did not. 

The Church of St. Ann is not far from the Holy Sepul- 
chre. It is claimed that the Blessed Virgin Mary was born 
there. I heard Mr. Clark remark that the Church of St. Ann 
had been offered gratis to the Episcopal Bishop at Jerusalem, 
who had refused it, and then the Catholics bought it for a 
large sum. I do not know what authority Mr. Clark had for 
the statement. On looking the matter up I found that after 
the Crimean War the Sultan gave it as a donation to France, 
and hence it has since been in possession of the Catholics. 

Opposite this church is the Pool of Bethesda, whence our 
Lord cured the paralytic as spoken of by St. John, v. 1-15. 

Not very far eastward is the Gate of St. Stephen. 
Opposite this spot is shown the place where, it is said, St. 
Stephen was stoned to death. There is nothing to indicate 
that it is the place of the Deacon's martyrdom. However, 
at the opposite side of the city, not far from the Damascus 
gate, is the Church of St. Stephen. The Dominican Fathers 
are in charge of it. It was there that the Empress Eudoxia 
in 444 had a church built in honor of St. Stephen, and had 
his relics transferred to it. I went to visit it. The Domini- 
can Father pointed out a part of the mosaic floor of that 
old church which is about five feet below the present level. 
It was revealed while excavating. A beautiful new stone 
church, nearly completed, covers this ancient and sanctified 
place. 

Not far from the Damascus gate we visited the Tombs of 
the Kings. There are several chambers, one behind the 
other hewn out of the solid rock. The entrance is quite 



224 "Grotto of St. John in the Mountains." 

narrow. The best way to get in is to go feet first. The 
wife of one of the ministers hesitated. He said rather im- 
pulsively : "0, come on ; if you can only get your feet in 
the rest will be easy." I could not but laugh at the implica- 
tion. I don't think she liked what he said or my hilarity, 
because she would not move to the tomb. She determined 
not to try the experiment. When one of the Chicago news- 
papers announced that a certain prominent citizen was so 
sick that " he had one foot in the grave," a St. Louis journal 
stated that " the reason he had not the other foot in the 
grave was because there was not land enough." 

One afternoon Father O'Doherty and I went to the 
" Grotto of St. John in the Mountains," about six or seven 
miles from Jerusalem. The road that twines about the 
mountains and makes its way to the valley is very well 
graded. 

We passed by the place w^here Solomon was. anointed 
King, and the field where an angel slew in one night one 
hundred and eighty-five' thousand of the Assyrian army in 
answer to the prayers of the Prophet, the King and the peo- 
ple. (IV. Kings, xix.) 

When we reached the beautifully situated town of Ain 
Karim a walk of five minutes through some uninviting alleys 
brought us to the fine church which contains the Grotto of 
the Precursor of our Blessed Lord. We descended a flight 
of four marble steps and knelt at the altar, beneath which 
we read engraved in the marble : " Hie Precursor Domini 
Natus est " (Here the Precursor of our Lord was born). 

The altar is very rich, and its cards are engraved on 
silver. The lamps of the grotto are very beautiful. In the 
church are fine marble statues of St. Francis Asissi and St. 
Clare. The altars and the communion railing are of marble. 
Finely decorated tiling lines the walls and pillars for some 
distance up. The church also contains many fine paintings. 



Mysteries Connected With Ain Karim. 225 

We then went to the Church of the Visitation, which is 
half a mile distant up the side of another mountain. Here 
took place the event commemorated in the Second Joyful 
Mystery. Our Blessed Lady saluted St. Elizabeth, who in 
turn greeted her with the words in the Hail Mary : " Blessed 
art thou among women, and blessed is the fruit of thy 
womb." Then and there the Blessed Virgin praised the Lord 
in the words of the Magnificat. 

The Franciscan Brother showed us the part that yet 
remains of the dwelling and the sanctuary of Zachary. He 
gave us a drink from the old well near the altar of the Mag- 
nificat . We also saw the place in which the Infant Precursor 
and St. Elizabeth were miraculously concealed from the 
soldiers of Herod. 

At the foot of the hill on the roadside is the old spring 
from w^hich doubtless the Blessed Virgin Mary often carried 
water at the time of the Visitation. A number of women 
were washing at the spring, and others were carrying away 
water in the old-fashioned water-pots poised on their heads. 
This is the only spring in the village. 

While looking at the magnificent surrounding scenery 
through the field glasses a number of native men gathered 
curiously around me while I waited for Father O'Doherty to 
return from the Church of the Visitation. I let them use 
the glasses. They passed them from one to another with 
the curiosity of children, and were busy explaining to each 
other the wonderful effects produced. 

The first chapter of St. Luke refers in an especial manner 
to the mysteries connected with Ain Karim, more commonly 
called St. John in the Mountains. 

On the hill opposite the Church of the Visitation there is 
an orphan asylum conducted by the religious founded by 
Father Ratisbonne. 

In the afternoon of Easter Saturday Father O'Doherty and 



226 On the Road to Bethlehem. 

I walked from Jerusalem to Bethlehem. The places are only 
seven miles apart. We passed on our way the Mount of 
Evil Counsel ; the Well of the Magi ; the spot from which the 
angel carried the Prophet Habacuc to Babylon to bring food 
to Daniel in the Lion's den (Daniel, xiv. 32), etc. ; the place 
where the Prophet Elias received from the angel the food 
from the nourishment of which he walked for forty days 
and forty nights to Mount Horeb. A monastery dedicated 
to the Prophet is built there. 

We paused for a moment at the tomb of Rachel, the wife 
of Jacob. It is a place of pilgrimage for the Jews. 

We next came to the Well of David. Three of his 
soldiers had risked their lives in going through the camp of 
the Philistines to get some water from the well for which 
David had expressed a desire. Touched by such devotion, 
David refused to drink, saying : *' God forbid that I should 
drink the blood of these men." 

After our arrival at Bethlehem we again visited the 
grotto and the chapels round about it. We obtained a very 
fine panoramic view of the surrounding country from the 
roof of the Franciscan Monastery. 

In the group of buildings about the Grotto of Bethlehem 
is a very fine, but abandoned church ; at least it is empty and 
entirely neglected. It contains four rows of very fine col- 
umns. It is large, imposing and well constructed, and must 
have cost a great sum. There is no altar within. It merely 
serves as an entrance to the Church of the Nativity. I 
naturally inquired for the reason of the abandonment of such 
a costly and beautiful temple. I learned that it is the Church 
of St. Helen, the Saint who did the most for the Church of 
the Holy Sepulchre, and through whose instrumentality the 
True Cross was discovered. It is left in its present neglected 
state because neither the Latins, the non-united Greeks nor 
the Armenians can get exclusive control of the building and 



Mount Olivet. 



227 



none will accept partial control. It is sad, indeed, to see the 
litter neglect and abandonment of the most beautiful basilica 
of glorious St. Helen. 

On Good Friday I made a visit to Mount Olivet, the scene 
of our Lord's Ascension and to the Garden of Gethsemane. 





WELL OF -THE MAGL 

to Calvary and to the Holy Sepulchre. What sacred places, 
the most sacred on earth, and especially so on the day of 
our Savior's Crucifixion ! 

On my way to Mount Olivet I visited the Convent of the 
" Pater Noster." It is built on the spot where Christ taught 
the Lord's Prayer. 

The names of thirty-one languages in which the "Our 
Father" is written on tablets all around the building, con- 



228 In the Convent op the " Pater Noster." 

structed for that purpose by the Princess of La Tour d'Au- 
vergne. She also donated the tablets with the translations. 
■ The "Pater Noster" is inscribed in thirty-two languages 
on as many marble tablets. I call to mind the following: 
The Chinese, Ethiopian, Coptic, Bohemian, Kurd, Hebrew. 
Armenian, Arabic, Turkish, German, Moscovite, Danish, Sla- 
vonic, Norwegian, Greek, Syrian, Chaldean, Latin, Polish. 
Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, French, Samaritan, Swedish. 
Breton, Hungarian, Sanscrit, Flemish, Georgian, Provencal 
and Englisli. 

I called the Sisters' attention to the omission of the Irish 
language from the list. No. people are more devoted to that 
prayer. During the centuries of dark and bloody persecution 
for the faith, they found strength and consolation in that 
prayer and in the frequent recital of the Rosary. No won- 
der I felt indignant at the omission of " Lingua Hibernica.'' 

I also directed their attention to the mistake in the 
English version, which begins with : " Our Father which 
art in heaven." Father O'Doherty also in his visit referred 
to these matters. The omission ought to be rectified and 
the proper correction made. However, the Princess was the 
person at fault. I suppose she knew no better. Her tomb 
is within the enclosure. 

The Franciscan Fathers have a very large and a very fine 
church. It is the parish church for all Jerusalem. I noticed 
that the native women who attend Mass there and receive 
Holy Communion, were covered from head to foot with what 
looked very much like white sheets. Seeing them first from 
a distance as they entered the church I thought they consti- 
tuted a First Communion class. 

I was much struck by the apparent lack of reverence on 
the part of Protestants for holy places, places most sacred. 
They come to see, to measure and to calculate, but they do 
not appear to feel. Their faith does not seem to be living 



Protestant Indifference. 229 

and tender. I said to one of them : " People show affection 
for sacred family or national mementoes, they display rev- 
erence and feeling at the tomb of their parents; why not 
show some affection for the place of our Lord's birth, the 
places of His sufferings, of His death and burial?" I do not 
think that one stooped to kiss the tomb. However, one 
minister privately told me that he would like to spend a 
night in the Garden of Gethsemane, and wanted to know if 
I could get him the privilege. I told him that I would see. 
However, I found that there is no place to stop there over 
night and no provision is made for such requests. I told 
him that I would celebrate Mass there at 6 o'clock Monday 
morning. He said he would be present. I looked for him 
but he was not there. Afterwards he told me that he felt 
very much indisposed that morning, and hence could not be 
at the Garden, much to his regret. The hour was rather 
early. 

Among the pilgrims at the Casa Nova was a Prince, a 
nephew of Dom Pedro, of Brazil. There was also a Princess, 
incog. She went with the pilgrims in the third class on 
board the ship. One lady accompanied her, but she sought 
neither recognition nor attention. She came humbly and 
devoutly to pray at the holy shrines. Amidst pomp and opu- 
lence at home she was mindful of the " one thing necessary," 
and sought no honor where our Blessed Lord had been so 
deeply dishonored. 

I noticed on the register in the monastery at Bethlehem 
the names of three Cleveland priests : Rev. W. F. Murphy, 
Rev. Father Reiken and Rev. Father VoUmayer. They had 
signed the register on the 3rd of March, just a month 
previous to the date on which I penned my name. 



230 Round About Jerusalem. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

ROUND ABOUT THE MODERN CITY OF JERUSALEM — MANY OF 

THE SINGULAR PHASES OF LIFE — WAILING PLACE OF 

THE .lEWS — MOSQUE OF OMAR — BIRTHPLACE OF 

THE PRECURSOR — QUEER EXPERIENCES. 

Those who read the history of Jerusalem, and wish to 
have clear ideas as to localities should know that from the 
time of Solomon until after Christ came the city had within 
its walls only three mounts. Under Claudius a new wall was 
constructed and embraced Mount Bezetha and Mount Gareb. 
This last is now called the Christian quarter. Jerusalem is 
now seated on five mounts, viz., Akra, Sion, Moriah, Bezetha 
and Gareb. 

The city is not now very large or populous. It has a 
population of only sixty thousand. There do not appear 
to be any public sewers, water or gas works. The streets 
within the walls are narrow and dirty. In many places the}^ 
are arched over and covered with buildings, openings being 
left for light. The stores on these streets are in most cases 
what we would call " holes in the wall." The following inci- 
dent will indicate the scenes on the streets. One day I 
met a camel loaded with fagots. The wood scraped the walls 
on both sides of the narrow street. The camel, ruminating 
and with springy tread, kept calmly on his way. I looked for 
a place of retreat, and found it in a doorway. On looking 
back I saw a donkey loaded with grain bags approaching. I 
wondered what would happen when the donkey and the 
camel met. The donkey appeared '' to have been there 
before." He looked quietly up at the camel stalking toward 
him and then stretched himself, lowered his head and calmly 



Shopmen and Hackmen. 



231 



waited and let the load of the tall camel pass over him. But 
very soon there was a bedlam of loud protestations from the 
pedestrians and the business men on the street. 

The shopmen, the guides, the hackmen and the hotel- 
men in Jerusalem await the coming of the pilgrims with 
appetites sharpened by 
more or less of a fast 
of nine months. They 
seek to take possession 
of the person and the 
property of the visitor. 
They even wonder why 
the strangers coming 
with pious thoughts 
and holy desires resent 
what tradesmen look 
upon as their rights — 
their rights of harvest. 
They tell the pilgrims : 
''This is our season ; 
we must make enough 
now for the year. Come 
on ! ! " 

As we pass along the streets they cry out : '' Reverend ! 
Come in, come in and buy. You have not been in my shop 
yet, and I invited you the first day." When we pass on they 
pout and grumble at such treatment. Should the pilgrim 
enter and price the articles he begins to be alarmed, espe- 
cially if he has not a return ticket home. But if he appear 
indilferent or reluctant to purchase, notch by notch the 
prices come within reach and fall to the basis of satisfaction. 

The carriages, as a rule, are old and rickety, unpainted, 
unwashed and dirty. The horses are small, but bony. 
They look dejected, but are encouraged by the unsparing 




STREET IN .JERUSALEM. 



232 The Guides. 

lash. A ten or twenty franc demand is made with the evi- 
dent expectation of getting half the sum. They have strong 
hopes for extras and for baksheesh. 

. The guides are your special friends. They have heard of 
your coming and they hope you are well. This one is your 
mentor and has longed for your coming, and hopes you will 
not be in a hurry to leave. He will save you money, because 
he knows how; he will get you special privileges, because he 
knows the Pasha, and the Pasha knows him. He confi- 
dently tells you that there are some guides in the business 
that don't know the way to their own homes. He will only 
charge you $2 or $3 for a short day's work. The commis- 
sions he gets from shopkeepers are not worth talking about, 
but they are worth thinking about. The guide sees to that 
when his protege is absent. 

When I first arrived in Jerusalem one of the guild stepped 
up and with outstretched hand said : " How do you do. 
Father McMahon? I am glad you have arrived. There are 
several letters here for you." I was not a little surprised to 
hear my name mentioned so familiarly during my first hours 
in Jerusalem. The guide and I had a confidential talk, but 
we formed no business connection. 

One of the guides showed me a card and said: ''Do you 
know this gentleman ? " I took it and read: "Rev. Patrick 
O'Brien, Cleveland, 0." I replied: "Yes, very well. He is a 
friend of mine. But I have already made my arrangements." 
No doubt he was a good guide — and perfectly capable of 
taking care of himself. 

One day Father O'Doherty was quite incensed, and said 
very impulsively to a number: "You are a set of thieves 
and liars." One of the guides demanded an apology. Father 
O'Doherty said: "So you want an apology? You'll wait 
awhile. You were with me the other day. "You hired a 
hack and told me it cost five francs. The real price was two 



A Model Boy. 233 

francs. We visited a number of places where charges were 
made for entrance. You told me that in those places you 
had to pay a franc. I afterward learned that the price was 
only a fourth of a franc at each. So you want an apology? 
Have you any apology or restitution to make to me?" The 
guide was glad to get away without an apology, and espe- 
cially without disgorging ^ 

One morning as Father O'Doherty and I came out of the 
Church of the Holy Sepulchre a boy of about twelve years 
accosted us. He wanted to know if he could not be of some 
service. He was dressed much like a girl, as all the boys 
there are. I finally told him to be at theCasa Nova the next 
morning at 5:30, to go with me to the Chapel of the Ecce 
Homo. He was there on time, but a much older boy was 
with him. He evidently had told the other lad of his engage- 
ment with me. The older boy wished to usurp his place, and 
wanted me to send the small lad away. I took the part of 
the boy, and sent the other one away. I found that the 
little boy could serve Mass very well. The Sisters at the 
Ecce Homo wondered where I got him. They said that he 
had gone to their school and was a good boy. 

Thereafter that boy turned up in the most unexpected 
places. He found me wherever I went. Early one morning, 
on a back street, some one ran up behind me and took my 
hand. It was the boy. As 1 knelt among the crowd in 
church on Holy Thursday someone pushed a chair in front 
of me that I might lean upon it. It was the boy. He asked 
if I was going to Communion, and then cleared a way for me 
to the railing. In making the Stations of the Cross along the 
A'"ia Dolorosa with the throng on Good Friday I felt someone 
gently taking my hat and umbrella. It was the boy. He 
went with me to serve Mass in Gethsemane, and up to the 
Mount of Olives. He appeared to be well posted. Kneeling 
at shrines, he would whisper : '' Indulgentia plenaria," that 



234 Beggars — English "As She is Spoke." 

I might know the privilege of the place. He appeared 
pleased when I made an offering to beggars, but scolded 
them sharply in their own tongue when they were too per- 
sistent. When in parting, I made him a present, he said 
that his mother would be pleased to get it. All in all, he 
was the most pleasing native I had met in Jerusalem. I felt 
inclined to kidnap him and bring hm to America as an object 
lesson in thoughtful politeness to our boys. 

The beggars are everywhere in the city. They are of all 
ages, and represent all classes of misfortune. They cry out 
like those mentioned in the Gospel. With voices on the 
brink of tears, they appeal pathetically to the passers-by. 
He who gives to one is marked by all who can see. There 
are a great many blind. Near the Garden of Gethsemane 
there are a large number of lepers. Some have lost part of 
their fingers, and others have lost their hands. They hold 
up the stumps and cry out for help ! help ! ! help ! 1 1 

Passing on at night, often the stranger thinks that he 
has come across a corpse on the pavement. It is a sleeping 
beggar who either has no home or is keeping his place for 
the morrow. 

French is generally spoken in the shops, and also in the 
religious houses. But English " as she is spoke " is also 
used in the stores. At one of the convents where relig- 
ious articles are sold I admired a large crucifix. The Sister 
suggested that I ought to take it. I told her that I had 
no room in my valise. She wished to tell me to get a 
box made, but she said : "Why you can get a coffin made 
and bring it home in that." I told her that I did not wish 
to bring such an article to America. She wondered why I 
objected, as several parties, she said, had done so. I told 
her that there was then a high protective duty on coffins. 
That surprised her very much. She reminded me of the 
Frenchman who looked up the translation for the word 



The Turkish Postoffice. 235 

which in his language means " chest." He found it and 
then went to tell the physician of a cold he had. He sur- 
prised the doctor by saying. "I have — I have a bad cold in 
my box." 

In this connection I may state that the clerk of the Vic- 
toria Hotel at Cairo wanted to know where Cleveland was. I 
told him as well as I could, and finally I said: " Cleveland is 
not very far from Chicago." He had not been in the Streets 
of Cairo at the Exposition, but he brightened up and said : 

"Ah ! now I know where Cleveland is; it is quite near to 
Halifax." I let it go at that. 

The people in -Jerusalem and, in fact, all through the 
East, are very loud and noisy and animated in their talk. At 
first I judged that they would soon come to blows. It is 
their way. They quarrel among themselves as children do 
and appear to get over it just as quickly. 

Jerusalem is a peculiar city in many respects. As far as 
I could learn there is no newspaper published nor is there 
any place of amusement. There is a telegraph office in con- 
nection with the postal department, but it appears to be 
seldom used. The rates for a short distance are ten cents a 
word ; date, address and name charged for at the same rate. 

The Turkish postoffice is upstairs in a room twenty by 
fifteen. All letters not called for are in a glass case about 
two feet square, and hung upon the wall. If you don't find 
your letter there you need ask no questions. When I 
bought some stamps I had to increase my purchase in order 
to enable the clerk to change a five-franc piece. Just think 
of the financial resources of that national postoffice in a city 
as large as Jerusalem ! The European mail arrives about 
once a week. I was there at the time and found about 
twelve persons locked out waiting for the assortment and 
registration of the mail. 

There is an Austrian postoffice in a remote place — a 



236 The Wailing Place of the Jews. 

place that we would call an alley. There is not much confi- 
dence in the safety of the Turkish office. The Powers, it 
appears, forced Turkey to submit to the establishment of 
foreign postoffices and the sale of foreign stamps in the 
various cities under Turkish control. At Beirut I found 
four different postoffices in one building. The Turkish 
Government is trying to abolish these foreign postoffices. 
The Turkish postoffices need watching. Jerusalem is not 
the only place under Turkish domination where there are 
foreign postoffices. I saw English. French and Austrian 
postoffices in other Turkish cities. 

Considerable building was going on in Jerusalem, but 
most of it consisted in the erection of Catholic institutions. 
Outside of the Jaffa Gate the Sisters of Charity were build- 
ing a very large stone convent. It had then been under way 
for six years. 

On the afternoon of Fridays the most devout of the Jews 
go to the outside of the western wall of the Mosque of Omar, 
the site of the Temple of Solomon, there to pray and to be- 
wail their sins and the misfortunes which have befallen them 
for the past nineteen centuries. We went there the Friday 
before Palm Sunday. To me the sight was sad and touching. 
Old and young were there bewailing their misfortunes in the 
presence of visitors from all parts of the earth. They faced 
the w^all of their departed glory and recited or chanted the 
following lamentations : 

Rabbi — On account of the place which is devasted — 

Answer — We sit solitary whilst we weep. 

R. — On account of the temple which is destroyed — 

A^We sit solitary whilst we weep. 

R — On account of our walls which are cast down — 

A — AVe sit solitar_v whilst we weep. 

R — On account of the glory Avhich is past — • 

A — We sit solitary whilst we weep. 



Lamentations of the Jews. 



237 



R — On account of the great men now no more — 

A — We sit solitary whilst we weep. 

R — On account of our precious stones which are burnt- 

A — ^^'e sit solitarj- whilst we weep. 

R — On account, etc., etc. 





WAILING PLACE OF THE .JEWS. 



Another prayer or chant was : 
Rabbi — -We beseech Thee to have pity on Sion. 
People — Reassemble tlie children of Jerusalem. 
R. — Hasten, hasten, O Savior of Sion. 
P. — Speak in favor of Jerusalem. 
R. — That beauty and modesty maj^ surround Sion. 
P. — Turn with clemency toward Jerusalem. 
R. — That the royal power maA' soon be re-established in Sion. 
P. — Comfort those who weep over Jerusalem. 
R. — That peace and happiness may enter Sion. 
P. — And the rod of Thj^ power be raised over Jerusalem. 



238 The Mosque of Omar. 

I did not remain long to witness the spectacle of that 
fallen race. Jeremias predicted it, saying to this stubborn 
people: "Why weep ye because ye are beaten with rods; 
your sorrow is incurable; on account of the multitude of 
your sins I have treated ye thus." 

Had not they themselves invoked " His Blood upon us 
and upon our children." 

Before the Mosque of Omar was built this desolate race 
used to go to weep upon the site of their ancient temple. 
Now they are confined to a flagged space about seventy-five 
by fifteen feet. Before departing the Jews kiss the ancient 
wall with respect and affection. 

We spent about half a day on the grounds of the Temple 
of Solomon and within the Mosque of Omar. Formerly it 
was death for a Christian to pass within the walls that sur- 
round this mosque. Even now a permit is required from the 
Governor of the province. During the Musselmen's Lent and 
on all Fridays even this permit will not avail. Slippers were 
placed over our shoes before we crossed the portals. 

The top of Mount Moriah is covered by the mosque. 
Upon this spot Abraham was about to sacrifice Isaac. There 
David offered the sacrifice that appeased the anger of God. 
He wished to build upon it the temple which was reserved 
to his son, Solomon, and upon this mount the Ark of the 
Covenant was afterwards placed. There the Presentation 
took place, and there Simeon thanked God that he had lived 
to see the Promised Redeemer. 

The gates open upon the square of the mosque. The 
grounds occupy a space of about fourteen hundred feet long 
by seven hundred feet wide. The place is venerated because 
our Lord appeared here in the midst of the doctors and af- 
terwards wrought miracles. (St. Luke, ii.) 

The mosque is octagonal in form, and there is a door to- 
wards each of the points of the compass. That to the north 



The "Golden Nails." 



239 



is called the Gate of Paradise ; that to the south, the Gate 
of Prayer ; that to the east, the Gate of Setting ; that to the 
west, the Gate of David, or the Gate of the Chain. By this 
gate we entered the mosque. The interior is rather dark. 
There are eight pillars and sixteen columns of beautiful 
marble. All the upper 
portion of the mosque 
is covered by mosaics 
and rich gilding, inter- 
spersed with texts from 
the Koran. Within and 
nearer to the center, 
surrounding the rock, 
are four other pillars 
and twelve columns of 
similar material. The 
rock is venerable to 
Jew and Christian. Fire 
had descended on it 
from heaven to con- 
sume the sacrifice 
offered By the Royal 
Prophet. Here was the 
" Holy of Holies." 

The Musselmen be- 
lieve in many supersti- 
tions and legends con- 
nected with this rock 

and with Mahomet. I will relate the one of the " Golden 
Nails" : 

As we walked about the first circular nave we came to a 
beautiful slab of jasper about eighteen inches square, in- 
serted in the pavement. In this Mahomet himself, it is 
claimed, had inserted nineteen golden nails, to indicate the 




MAHOMETAN AT PRAYER. 



240 The Mosque of El-Aska. 

duration of the world. At the end of each century a nail 
detached itself and disappeared. One fine day the de\H[l en- 
tered by the north gate and began to unfasten and to steal 
the nails, that he might quickly see the end of the world. 
But the Archangel Gabriel caught him at his bad work, con- 
quered and banished him forever from this glorious sanc- 
tuary. Three nails and a half remain. The old Mahometan 
of the place squatted on one side of the slab of jasper and 
assured us that everyone who passed and made an offering 
on the stone and paid it reverence would surely go to heaven. 
We all had to pass, but no one complied with the conditions. 

Some five hundred feet away from the Mosque of Omar is 
the Mosque of El-Aska. It is very large and is said to have 
been a church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary. In it 
a footprint is shown on the rock. The Musselmen hold in it 
great veneration, declaring it to be the footprint of our 
Blessed Lord. It may be the one which is wanting on the 
Mount of the Ascension. There are two columns called the 
/'Ordeal Columns." Anyone passing between them was 
assured of heaven. There was no chance for a fat person, 
and an iron obstruction has been placed between them. 
Some one said it was done by an obese official. 

Within the mosque is pointed out the " Cradle of the In- 
fant Jesus." We descended thirty-two steps to reach it. It 
lies under a canopy supported by four small marble columns. 
The upper part is sculptured in the form of a shell. It is 
called the Sanctuary of Jesus. It is claimed that it orig- 
inated from the Blessed Virgin remaining here with the 
child Jesus as the guest for some days of the holy Simeon. 

On one of the porticoes of the temple we were shown a 
column by facing which with eyes closed, and then after 
turning around several times and walking thus with out- 
stretched hand the person would be eternally saved, pro- 
vided the hand went within a circle on the wall opposite the 



Russian Pilgrims. 241 

column, some fifteen feet away. This was just as super- 
stitious as the nail test in the Temple of Omar. However, 
six or seven of the party, most of them ministers, made the 
attempt. The only one who succeeded was a lawyer from 
New York. Some who failed were unkind enough to say 
that he wouldn't be' saved anyhow. Others said that he 
peeked ; others again said that you wouldn't get a lawyer 
to keep his eyes closed with such an important case in hand. 
I thought that he did his part fairly. Why should people 
lean so hard on the lawyers ? A good and conscientious 
lawyer is a peacemaker, and " Blessed are the peacemakers 
for they shall be called the children of God." However, on 
Good Friday the only one of the party that I saw with the 
crowd making the Way of the Cross was the same lawyer. 
I went and gave him a book that contained the prayers of 
the devotion. I saw him again in the Basilica of the Holy 
Sepulchre quite early on Easter Sunday morning. " No man 
can come to Me except the Father who hath sent Me draw 
him." But it is a grave sin " to resist the Known Truth." 
The lawyer may have been at those places through curiosity, 
but curiosity may lead to investigation and that to the truth. 

Many pilgrims come to Jerusalem from Russia. They 
are sturdy, strong and earnest. Men and women wear large 
wrinkled cowhide boots. The skirts of the women reach to 
the top of the boots, and the men have their trousers tucked 
in their bootlegs. The women wear ■ handkerchiefs over 
their heads. The men wear caps with peaks and have their 
hair cut straight around. Their coats reach to the top of 
their boots and are tight at the waist. They tramp every 
place. Their faith and devotion are edifying. They kiss 
the pavements, the walls and the floors of the sacred places, 
and make the Sign of the Cross very frequently. They 
appear to be devoid of all human respect. 

The Augustinians, who figured prominently in the Holy 



242 The Franciscans. 

Land after the Crusades, are back again and have a large 
stone hospice, school monastery and church combined. I 
was shown through it. I had a very fine view of Jerusalem 
and the surrounding country from the stone roof and the 
towers. Their hospice is outside and opposite the New 
Gate. 

Connected with the Franciscan Monastery are a number 
of industrial institutions. I visited their book-binding and 
printing establishment, their cabinet and carpenter depart- 
ment, their foundry and grist mill. From a central engine 
room, power is furnished for all the departments. They 
give away to the poor daily five hundred loaves of bread. 
There is also a photographic department for views of the 
Holy Land, etc. The sacristan of the church came from the 
Cincinnati monastery. I think his name was Brother Ferdi- 
nand. 

I visited St. Peters Refuge and Industrial School, where 
trades are taught the boys. It is in charge of the Fathers 
of Sion, founded by Father Ratisbonne. It is a very large 
stone building just out of the city and prominently situated 
on a hill. Here we met Brother O'SuUivan. We found him 
very intelligent and well informed on the history of Jerusa- 
lem and the holy places within and without the city. He 
gave me much valuable information. 

There is an utter lack of English-speaking priests in the 
religious houses. I wondered at this as there are a number 
of pilgrims whose only language is English. How can these 
prepare to receive the Sacraments and how can those who 
wish to make a retreat, do so in a place so adapted to a 
spiritual awakening? Besides, many non-Catholic English 
speaking people go to Jerusalem. An English-speaking 
priest is a necessity, and doubtless would do much good in 
the cause of religion. It is to be hoped that this condition 
of affairs will be remedied. Connected with a monastery 



The Grotto at Bethlehem. 



243 



beyond the walls, there is a priest who knows English, hut 
the English-speaking people do not get to know him. 

On Good Friday night, there were seven sermons in as 
many dilTerent languages in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 
but not one of them was in English, and yet many in the 
church were English. 




INTERIOR OF GROTTO AT BETHLEHEM. 



I was very much amused at an episode in which Father 
O'Doherty was unwillingly the chief actor. He was a very 
serious-minded man. The subjects of his conversations were 
generally of a weighty and reflective character. He asked 
me to go with him to Bethlehem on Easter Monday after- 
noon. He wanted to get some rosaries that he had paid for. 



244 Father O'Doherty's Adventure. 

but which had not been sent as promised. I excused myself, 
telling him that I had several places to visit about .Jeru- 
salem, and that I had been twice at Bethlehem. 

In going away Father O'Doherty told me that he would 
be back for supper, and, moreover, that he was anxious to 
celebrate Mass on Calvary once before leaving. He was not 
at supper. I went to his room at 10 p. m., but he had not 
returned. The next morning he w^as not at breakfast, and I 
began to fear that some evil had befallen him. I had 
about concluded to make an investigation and go in search 
of him when he appeared, looking rather fatigued. I asked 
him what had happened. 

"Happened? Enough has happened," he said, "but don't 
ask me." But I was curious, so he told me the following in- 
cident, which amused me very much: 

" When I left here," said he, " I was persuaded to go to 
Bethlehem on an ass. There was a Franciscan Brother from 
Bethlehem at the Jaffa Gate, and I hired another ass for 
him. We both went off on the donkeys, and the brother 
was as placid as St. Francis himself. Well, the donkeys, 
despite all I could do, took their own time. Do you know, 
it took us three and a half hours to go those seven miles. 
At Bethlehem they thought something had happened to the 
belated brother, and we met a delegation from the mon- 
astery coming to look for him. At Bethlehem I had to get 
the beads and it was late before I got through. When I 
was ready to return to Jerusalem, I mounted the donkey to 
hurry back. Do you know that that donkey would not stir a 
foot, no matter how much I urged and beat him? When I 
got tired welting him I got off, and I believe the beast 
winked. I had to make application to stay at the monastery 
all night, as by that time the carriages had all returned to 
Jerusalem." 

I asked : "AVhat did you do with the donkeys?" 



"Didn't Come Home Till MorninCx." 245 

'' I had to hire a man to care for them all night outside 
of the monastery. I had to look after them, because in this 
land where there is neither justice nor law, I did not know 
but that I might be arrested for horse-stealing if I let the 
beasts go their w^ay." 

Laughing heartily, I asked: "What did you do this 
morning to get back?" 

He said: "When I went out to look for the man and 
the donkeys I found the man. He remained for his pay, but 
there were no donkeys. The owner had come looking for 
the brutes and had taken them home. So I had to get a 
carriage. When I got here the owner met me at the Jaffa 
Gate, and upbraided me for retaining his donkeys so long, 
and demanded double pay for keeping them out all night." 

"Why,"' I said, laughing, "you did not keep them out; 
they kept you out all night." 

"I know it," he replied. "The fellow ought to be prose- 
cuted for keeping such beasts for hire. I gave him a piece 
of my mind on the whole miserable business, but I had to 
give him several pieces of money, too." 

Some Germans opposite me at table 'noticed my hilarity. 
I had to explain. I did it as well as I could in German, and 
then there was general amusement. 

"I suppose you have told it all?" Father O'Doherty 
inquired. 

"Yes." 

" And did you tell them about the owner wanting double 



pay 



?" 



"Yes," I replied; "that is one of the best things in your 
very funny episode." 

The next day when we were getting ready to make our 
trip to " St. John's in the Mountains," I quietly suggested to 
Father O'Doherty that we should go on donkeys. The look he 
bestowed on me gave no encouragement to the proposition. 



246 Adieu to Jerusalem — That Passport. 

The time was fast approaching for me to end my stay in 
the Holy City. I found that the two weeks of my stay had 
passed very rapidly, so many are the places of absorbing in- 
terest in and about Jerusalem. 

Previous to my leaving Jerusalem I remembered the 
difficulty I had had, or might have had, at Jaffa, in getting 
in without a Turkish passport. I sought to provide myself 
with one, and for that purpose made application to a semi- 
official for information on the matter. In surprise he asked : 
"How did you get into the country without a passport?" 

I told him what happened at Jaffa. 

" If application be made for a passport the whole affair 
will come out," he said. 

"Well, what will it matter?" I asked. 

"Matter? Well it matters this much. The officials and 
guards at Jaffa will be fined, punished and probably be dis- 
charged for dereliction of serious duty. And on you also a 
penalty will be inflicted." 

"So ! So !! There are rods in pickle," I said. "Well, 
nevermind," I continued; "I am not much alarmed about 
myself, but I do not want to get those parties in Jaffa 
into trouble. Please consider my talk with you as strictly 
confidential. I will risk the getting out of this country 
without a passport." He promised, and the matter was set- 
tled for the time. 

I sent a response to the many letters I had found await- 
ing me in Jerusalem from the school children at home. As 
I wrote in them of many things related in these chapters. I 
give but a brief synopsis of the letter. 

jERUSAi^EM, April 9, 1S98. 
My Dear Children: 

I greet you from this Holy City, and I wish you all the joys of 
the Heavenly Jerusalem. 

Yesterday I received your very nice and Avelcome letters. I 
\vas, indeed, very nmch pleased to hear from you and to get 



Another Letter. 247 

through the "Spectator" such good reports of your school work. 
Ah ! but how very sorry I am to learn of the unexpected death 
of that good and exemplary child, Anna McCauley. How cheer- 
ful, obedient and exemplar}' she always was ! No wonder Sister 
Marcelline commended and spoke of her without reserve— as she 
easilj^ could. YesterdaA', in "The Way of the Cross," I prayed 
for her eternal happiness, and that you all might so imitate her 
goodness that when you come to die you may die the death of the 
just and have a crown awaiting you in Heaven. 

I send you some flowers I got yesterday, Good Friday, from 
under the Tree of the Agony of Our Blessed Lord in the Garden 
of Gethsemane. Give some to each room if you have enough. 
Yesterda}' I also visited Mount Olivet. A great many people went 
up the Mount. 



248 Haifa. 



CHAPTER XXH. 

HISTORIC PLACES ON THE MEDITERRANEAN AND AGEAN SEAS 

— HAIFA — MOUNT CARMEL — BEIRUT — ALEXANDRETTA — 

RHODES — SMYRNA — THE PASSPORT AGAIN — COLONEL 

MADDEN, AMERICAN CONSUL — REMINISCENCES. 

There was a crowd at the station in Jerusalem the 
morning we left. A great many pilgrims had decided to 
leave that morning. Like ourselves, they had timed their 
departure so as to meet the steamer in Jaffa. The cars 
were very crowded, but we arrived at the ancient seaport 
without incident. I got down to the wharf before the other 
passengers and found an opportunity to get to the steamer 
without being accosted for the bothersome passport. 

The steamer was of the Austrian line. It was so crowded 
that I was glad to get a chance to sleep on a bench in the 
cabin. 

We were bound for Haifa, where many were to disembark 
to make the overland journey of twenty-four miles to Naz- 
areth. Fortunately the sea Avas so calm at both ports that 
the passengers could get off easily in the small boats. We 
reached Haifa at 8 p. m. , on the 13th of April. The sailors 
in moving a boom let it slip. It came down close to my head 
and just grazed my shoulder. It was dark at the time. 

Mount Carmel is at Haifa. The Monastery of the Carmel- 
ite Fathers is an immense square building. The church con- 
tains the Grotto of the Prophet EHas and also of Eliseus, as 
both dwelt at Carmel. Coming back from Egypt, it is said 
that the Holy Family remained in Carmel for some time. 
The grotto of the tradition is still preserved. 

Massacres, carnage and war have marked the historv of 



Mount Carmel. 



249 



Mount Carmel from the time of the Crusades. In 1225 St. 
Simon Stock of Kent, England, lived at Mount Carmel and 
had instituted the Confraternity of the Holy Scapular. Ed- 
ward, King of England, and St. Louis, King of France, were 
enrolled in this Confraternity in 1252. St. Louis visited the 
Holy Mountain at the time of the Crusades. The Ministers 




PARK AND SQUARE, BEIRUT. 

of Baal were confounded through the agency of Elias, at 
Mount Carmel. The account of this is given in the HI. 
Kings, xvii. 

Owing to the fact that I would miss my steamer, and 
steamers are far apart there, I found that I could not go to 
Nazareth if I would go to Turkey and Greece. I regretted 
the omission very much, but my limited time would not per- 



250 Beirut. 

mit me to make the journey. Father O'Doherty went on to 
Nazareth. We agreed to meet, if possible, in Naples. 

I left Mount Carmel for Beirut. On the way we passed 
the Ruins of Tyre and Sidon. These figure very prominently 
in the Scriptures and also in civil history. 

I remained for fourteen hours in the city of Beirut. I 
paid my respects to the American Consul, Mr. A. Doyle. 
From his name I expected to find him a Catholic. I asked 
him the question, and found that he was a Presbyterian. I 
told him that the Doyles whom I knew were all Catholics. 
But he was a descendant of one of those who sought his for- 
tune and lost his faith far away from Church influence. Mr. 
Doyle was a native of Virginia. He w^as then in Beirut 
fifteen months, but his trunks were packed, as he daily ex- 
pected his Republican successor. 

Beirut has been in existence for twenty-eight hundred 
years. During that time it has had many rulers and suifered 
much from war. It is now a city of one hundred and fifty 
thousand inhabitants. It is beautifully situated, and is 
cleaner than most Eastern cities . A large number of French 
reside in Beirut. Just behind it is snow-capped Mount 
Lebanus. The streets are narrow and the bazaars are many. 
I noticed less begging there than in any other town after I 
left Egypt. The port is well protected by a fine stone 
breakwater. 

I visited three Catholic churches. One of them is espe- 
cially fine. It is very large, finely frescoed, embellished 
with many beautiful paintings, has marble altars and col- 
umns, and is Roman in architecture. It is the Church of St. 
George. 

At one of the churches Mass was being celebrated in an 
Eastern rite. 

I got a very fine panoramic view of this city by the sea 
from the Turkish Citadel. The city lies on a triangular 



Alexandretta — Island of Rhodes. 251 

piece of land, the base of which rests at the foot of Mount 
Lebanus. 

The Jesuits have a very fine and large college on the 
highest point of ground in Beirut. It is on the road that 
'leads to Damascus. I took a carriage and drove out on this 
road quite a distance and then went about the city. 

The steamer left Beirut at 8 p. m., and arrived at Tripoli 
at 5 a. m,, April 15. We remained anchored out at sea until 
2 p. ra. The time was consumed in taking on thousands of 
boxes of oranges. Twelve or fourteen '' lighters " brought 
them to the ship anchored out a mile and a half from shore. 
I was much interested in the manners, the costumes and the 
work of the native boatmen.. 

We arrived the next morning at 5:30 at Alexandretta. 
This town is not large, but very nicely situated on a crescent- 
shaped bay. I was surprised at the amount of freight 
brought to and sent out from Alexandretta. 

We reached the famous Island of Rhodes at 2 a. m., on 
the 19th of April. The city presents a very fine appearance. 
It is situated on elevated ground that slopes down to the 
sea. The heavy fortified wall surrounding it recalls some- 
thing of its celebrated military history. The area of the 
island is four hundred and twenty square miles. The climate 
is delightful and the soil fertile. The Colossus of Rhodes 
was one of the Seven Wonders of the World before it was 
thrown down by an earthquake, 224 B. C. In A. D. 1309 
the island was the headquarters of the Knights of St. John 
of Jerusalem. For two hundred and fourteen years it was 
the southern bulwark of Christendom against the Musselmen. 
The streets are narrow and winding for the most part. The 
population is about fifteen thousand. 

We arrived in the city of Smyrna on April 20. This is 
the second largest city in Turkey. It surpasses Constanti- 
nople in the extent of its commerce. The graceful minarets 



252 Smyrna — Again the Passport. 

of twenty mosques rise before the view as the tourist sails 
up the magnificent bay. There is a fine promenade of two 
miles along the well-constructed stone quays. Smyrna's two 
harbors cover a space of sixty-eight acres. 

On the ship from Beirut to Smyrna was an old German 
gentleman, H. Glaus, of Baden. He could not speak a word 
of English. Saluting me, he said in German: "Excuse me, 
but I think I have met you before." 

''Where do you think you met me?" 

" In Bremen, Germany." 

I told him I was going to Germany, but that I had never 
been there. We became well acquainted, and were close 
companions *for six days. He had his Turkish passport. 
When we landed we were brought to the custom-house. The 
German exhibited his passport when it was demanded. The 
Turk held out his hand to me. I was going to shake it, but 
he looked so solemn I thought I had better not. I gazed at 
him a moment, as one not comprehending his meaning, and 
then began to fix the valise. The Turk said in French to 
another official: "II est un Allemand" (He is a German). 
The real German started away and I followed him, not 
deigning to cast a glance at the Turk. I expected to be col- 
lared, but I was not. I drew a long breath when I got on 
the street. The old German, who knew my predicament, 
said : " Das haben sie gut gethan." 

I called at the American Consulate. Colonel Madden, an 
old soldier under Grant, was the Consul. Presenting my 
card, I said: ""Being from America, I have called to pay 
my respects to our representative." He arose, and shaking- 
hands, said: "That is more than a great many Americans 
who come here do." We had a pleasant talk of an hour's 
duration. I said : 

" I would expect a man of your name to be a Catholic 



A View of Smyrna. 



253 



and an Irishman. One of the councilmen of my church 
bears the same name." 

"I am not a Catholic; I belong to no church. My ances- 
tors were Irish, but they came to America over two hundred 
years ago," he replied. 




SMYRNA. 



He then told me of an interview he had with a number of 
Protestant ministers who were visiting Smyrna some time 
before. He said to them : "You ask what I think of the 
missions here. Well, as a Western man, I will illustrate it 
with a story, as Lincoln, from whose State I hail, used to do. 
When I was a boy living on the banks of the Mississippi, we 
used to go out at the time of the floods and capture what we 
could of the things the freshet brought down. After a time 



254 Colonel Madden, the American Consul. 

we learned that it was no use to hook into the big logs as 
they would carry us away with them. We found it better to 
cling to the smaller things, such as we could land. Well, 
now, your ministers try to get hold of these old Turks and 
convert them. You never can. The Catholics go about the 
matter in the right way. ' They get the children into the 
schools, and they are making progress." The illustration is 
a good one. 

We talked about the latest news from the States con- 
cerning the Spanish trouble. I told Colonel Madden that I 
was quite ignorant about the affairs at home, as having gone 
westward I had 'secured no papers except three copies of 
"The Universe" at Jerusalem. The news Colonel Madden 
had was five days old. 

I asked the Colonel: ''Whose yacht is that in the 
harbor flying the American flag ? " 

" It belongs to a man named Egan," he replied. 

" Is the owner Patrick Egan? " I asked. 

"I do not know; he has not called as yet. Yacht 
owners only call when they get into trouble, as a rule." 

Speaking of Ireland, he said: "I was at a reception 
here some time ago and was introduced to a minister, Rev. 
Mr. Martin, from Belfast. When he was presented I said to 
him: 'I am from a country that is said to contain more 
Irish than Ireland.' ' You are welcome to them — such as 
they are,' he snapped out. ' They are just as good as you 
are, sir,' I retorted. That ended our talk. As an American 
Consul, I was not going to permit a portion of our citizens 
to be insulted with impunity. 

"The next day the gentleman who introduced us called 
on me and said : ' You and Mr. Martin crossed swords very 
soon last night. The Irish blood in both of you boiled up. 
The minister asked me after you had gone : "Who is that 
man Madden to whom you introduced me?" "Why," I said, 



Colonel Madden on Catholic Soldiers. 255 

" that is the American Consul." " Why didn't you tell me so 
when you introduced us ? " he asked.' " 

"That was not the only time," said Mr. Madden, "that I 
have called such men to time. I don't like them, and I don't 
like those un-Americans that always want to apologize for 
their country." 

"By the way," he continued, "did not one of your priests 
state in A.merica that in case of war with Spain the Catho- 
lics would help Spain, because she is a Catholic nation? 
Such a man ought to be sent back; America is no place for 
him." 

"I do not know of such a declaration," I answered; " but 
if it were made, it was made by one who spoke without any 
authority, and who did not state a fact. Such persons do 
immense harm. What do you think of Father Chidwick's 
conduct in the Maine disaster?" 

"Ah!" he said; "he covered himself with glory. I 
know Father Parks of the navy. He is a grand man, also, 
and the idol of his ship. Archbishop Ireland, too, is a 
patriot and an ex-soldier." 

" Well, Colonel," I asked, " did you not meet many Cath- 
olics in the army in your time ? " 

"I did, indeed I did; and they were a credit to their 
country and their Church." 

"Well, you will find in case, of a war now that the Cath- 
olics in the American iVrmy will outnumber any other 
religious body." 

I asked the Colonel : " How long have you been here as 
consul?" 

He told me that he had been there five years. I asked 
him how he had remained so long, lapping over into another 
administration. He said that he did not know, unless it was 
another General Lee case, as there were many delicate ques- 
tions to settle. 



256 Consular Salaries. 

I told my passport trouble to Colonel Madden. He put 
himself to some bother and kindly got me the necessary 
papers and passport, so I did not need to be uneasy about 
getting into Constantinople. 

To a question of mine, Colonel Madden stated that the 
salary of the United States Consul at Smyrna is $2,400 per 
annum. From this sum he has to pay his own house rent. 
When we consider the dignity and the importance of the 
position in such a commercial metropolis as Smyrna, the 
salary is meagre. The compensation is not at all equal to 
that paid consuls from other nations. It would appear that 
much economy must be exercised by the consul to make ends 
meet, as there are many incidental expenses attached to the 
office. Wealth, and not merit alone, must be considered in 
the appointments to many consular positions. I understand 
that frequently an investigation is privately made into a 
candidate's bank account, to ascertain whether he can, from 
his private fortune, pay his way as consul. Whitelaw Reid, 
when Minister to France, paid for house rent alone more 
than his entire salary. Were Webster and Clay alive, they 
would lack one of the necessary requirements — wealth — to 
represent the country on a first-class foreign mission. Our 
country is large enough and wealthy enough to give a salary 
sufficiently adequate, at least, to enable the fittest man, even 
if not wealthy, to represent his country in foreign missions. 

Noticing a table of '' consular fees " hung upon the wall, 
I asked Colonel Madden if the income from that source did 
not constitute a perquisite for the consul in addition to his 
salary. He replied: "Not at all. We must send that 
money to Washington. Here it is some $3,000 a year. I 
get perhaps $75 a year as personal perquisites." 

Colonel Madden had administered his office with vigor. 
He said that the Turks must fear a man before they respect 
him. When the Colonel arrived in Smyrna he found that 



An Incident. 257 

the Turks searched the pockets of American travelers, while 
other nationalities were not so humiliated. He said that 
shortly after his coming a big, good-natured American was 
thus searched. This man was marched before a large crowd 
to the postoffice to have sonie letters found on his person 
translated. They proved not to be treasonable, and he was 
curtly dismissed. He told Colonel Madden of the affair. The 
Colonel was. indignant, and said to him : "Could you identify 
the man who treated you in that manner?" He said that 
he could. "Come then with me." They went to the custom- 
house. The American looked about and said: "The man is 
not here." On passing out the American looked into a small 
house on the dock and cried : " Here is the man." The Col- 
onel called him out and demanded: "By what right did you 
search this man's pockets and march him like a culprit along 
the street to the postoffice?" The Turk looked frightened. 
It appears that they fear investigations. He said: "My 
superior officer commanded me." " Then take us to him. 
He is the man we want." The fellow went to the custom- 
house and looked around and then said: "It was the post- 
master who commanded me." " Then you come with us to 
the postmaster." A large crowd followed. The Colonel 
said to the postmaster: " This officer says that you directed 
him to search the pockets of this American citizen and read 
his letters." The postmaster said: " He is a damnable liar. 
I merely translated a letter at his request." The Colonel 
then raised his big cane over the Turk in the presence of the 
crowd and shouted: "What have you got to say for your- 
self?" The Turk bowed in humility lower and lower, and 
asked pardon before the crowd. As the Turk went down, 
American honor and vindication went up. The Colonel said 
to him : " If ever again you attempt such a thing, I will 
break every bone in your body." Since that incident Amer- 
ican pockets and American honor are protected. The Turks 



258 The Mission School Episode. 

expected that the Colonel would make a big fuss over the 
matter in the papers and at Constantinople, and that an offi- 
cial • investigation would follow. When he did not their 
admiration for him grew wonderfully. They don't like pub- 
licity; they fear it. 

When a mob gathered about the Mission School to de- 
stroy it, word was sent to Colonel Madden. He, with two 
others, jumped into a wagon and hurried to the place. With 
Winchesters in their hands they went through the mob and 
marched into the school. The Colonel gave them to under- 
stand that if they attacked, Christians would not be the only 
ones to perish, as was the case in Armenia. There was too 
much business about the affair for the Turks, so the mob 
quietly withdrew. 

A Turkish judge once said to Colonel Madden during a 
dinner : " I wish our country had adopted the American 
code instead of the French code. I think that you must 
have some very good laws. There is one of your laws which 
I especially like, and that is your lynch law. When a man is 
taken in the act of a great crime, what is the use of waiting- 
and going to expense and delay? That lynch law of your 
country is a good law." Colonel Madden kept his face as 
grave as possible at this commendation of what the Turkish 
judge considered a part of American jurisprudence. 

Smyrna is remarkable as the scene of Bishop Polycarp's. 
labors. He was the disciple of St. John, the Beloved Apostle. 
He was arrested and martyred about the year 169. I was 
anxious to visit the spot consecrated by his labors. A guide 
had told me that it was a long, long way off. I asked 
Colonel Madden. He said that it was nearby. He kindly 
sent his dragoman to conduct me to the place. The church 
is very beautiful and spacious. The pavement is composed 
of tombstones, with graves beneath. I noticed on some of 
the stones dates as far back as 1630. That is a long- 



A Second-Hand Book Store. 259 

time for people to be dead. Our good deeds are the only 
real treasures. 

In response to my card, one of the priests came to the 
church. I was pleased to find that he spoke English. He 
told me that he had been educated in Rome at the Propa- 
ganda, and that he knew a number of the American priests 
in the East. He informed me that there were sixteen thou- 
sand Catholics in Smyrna. His name was Rev. Anthony 
Ligata. 

On my way back from the church I stopped through 
curiosity at a second-hand book stand, located on the side- 
walk. The Turkish proprietor surmised that he had. a cus- 
tomer for his English books, a very scarce visitor to him. 
With deep satisfaction he found just the right book and 
bowed as he handed it tome. The title was : "Specifica- 
tions for Building a Steamboat." I shook my head, as with a 
smile I handed it back. He then brought me two volumes 
on " The Solar System." These not passing, he brought me 
" Bradlaw's World Time Tables." That I thought would be 
handy. On looking at the date of issue, I found that it was 
1860. I pointed to the date. But it was the latest he had. 
He evidently thought that I was hard to please. 

In Smyrna I sought for some American newspapers. 
Fortunately, I found a place where the European edition of 
the New York "Herald" was "sold. I was hungry for news, 
so I bought all the back numbers on hand. There were 
twelve of them. 

On Thursday we passed through the Sea of Marmora. It 
was very calm. Before reaching Constantinople, we met 
three Turkish men-of-war. 

As our steamer was making out to sea, quite a large fire 
broke out in Smyrna. There was much evident excitement 
among the people, but we were off for Constantinople. 



260 Constantinople. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

A HOLIDAY IN THE ANCIENT CITY OF CONSTANTINE — THE 

TUKNING DERVISHES — ST. SOPHIA'S AND OTHER GRAND 

MONUMENTS — THE ARCHBISHOP AND PATRIARCH 

— THE LITTLE SISTERS OF THE POOR. 

Leaving the Sea of Marmora and passing into the Dar- 
denelles, Constantinople loomed up before our delighted 
vision. When we cast anchor in the magnificent Bosphorus, 
the setting sun tinted the innumerable white minarets and 
grey domes of the scores of mosques everywhere visible. 
Like Rome, the White City is seated upon seven hills', but 
these rise gradually from the blue waters of the Dardenelles, 
the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn. The superb harbor was 
filled with ships from all nations, and innumerable steam 
ferry boats crowded with passengers hurried back and forth 
to the different parts of the water-divided city. I stood on 
the steamer's deck, enchanted by the grand panorama. 

From what I saw of the superbly situated city of Con- 
stantinople, I think that, unlike the King's daughter, most 
of Constantinople's beauty is from without. It is enchant- 
ing as viewed from the deck of a steamer coming up the 
unrivalled Bosphorus. 

Our steamer cast anchor about an eighth of a mile from 
the shore. We were surrounded by a crowd of boatmen 
whose noise and persistence made us realize that prose is 
ever mingled with poetry. 

I wrote of my passport experience at -Jafl^a and Smyrna. 
I found that it was fortunate that I had provided myself 
with the proper papers at Smyrna. Among the boats about 
the steamer was the Turkish police patrol. Passengers had 



The Turk and "The Universe." 261 

to exhibit their passports before they would be permitted to 
land. At the custom-house they had again to be shown, and 
once more at the exit. 

The luggage was overhauled by the custom-house officers. 
The Turk who examined mine " knew a ' good thing ' when he 




CONSTANTINOPLE. 

saw it." He found " The Universe " in my bag. From the 
way he laid hold of it, you would imagine that he had found 
a long lost friend. He motioned me that he wanted it and 
was bound to keep it. I told him that he might have it, that 
I had read it through, that it was over two months old, any- 
how, being of the date of February 18. There was not 



262 An Invitation. 

another thing that he wanted, so I made my way to the 
Metropole Hotel. 

The next day being Friday, I knew that the Selamlik cer- 
emony would take place about noon, when the Sultan goes 
from the royal palace to the mosque to perform his devo- 
tions. I called at the American Legation and expressed my 
wish to be present. Properly sealed and signed I got an 
official letter, of which the following is the translation: 

The Legation of the United States of America has the honor 
to recommend to the aide-de-camp of the sendee the Rev. Wni. 
McMahon, who desires to assist at the ceremony of the Selamlik 
on Friday, the 22nd of April, IS98. 

The guide wished to know if I would take a carriage or 
go by boat. I told him I would prefer to go on the Bos- 
phorus. I supposed that he meant to take a steamer. 
Instead he took a small row boat. We had a ride of about 
two miles in and out among the shipping, and hence we had 
to do a good deal of dodging. 

However, we passed the foreign men-of-war, of which 
each foreign nation except America had two. We also 
passed a number of palaces built on the banks. We finally 
landed. As we approached the palace, troops were moving 
from the ten divisions of the city. Martial music filled the 
air, and people crowded to see the soldiers and to get a 
glimpse of the ceremony, if possible. Grand turnouts carry- 
ing dignitaries and important personages filled the avenues. 

I presented my letter to a smart officer, glittering with 
gold lace. I was ushered into the pavilion reserved for Am- 
bassadors and persons of distinction. 

I saw all the pomp and splendor and circumstance of 
royalty. The uniforms were rich and dazzling in gold and 
silver braid, enhanced by the splendid decorations that 
covered the breasts of manv. As far as I could observe, my 



Calling Mahometans to Prayer. 



263 



distinction consisted in being the plainest dressed person 
present. 

Soon I heard a distant cry.- I heard it in a moment 
again. It did not appear to be so far away and yet not near. 
I looked in the direction of the sound. Away up upon the 
minaret of the mosque stood an official calling the Mahome- 
tans to prayer. No bells are used in their temples to sum- 




CONSTANTINOPLE. 

mon people to public devotions. From a small gallery on 
the minaret, the cry goes forth calling "the faithful" to the 
mosque. There was a stir among the visitors, the officials 
and the soldiers. The bugles blew and the bands began to 
play. Down from the palace came seven or eight fine car- 
riages, drawn by magnificent grey horses and surrounded by 
officers and guards. These equipages contained the inmates 
■of the harem. , In a minute or two afterwards came an open 



264 A Glimpse of the Sultan. 

carriage between two ranks of dignitaries. A crowd of 
some two hundred officers and officials closely followed the 
equipage of the Sultan. Dressed in a plain black, buttoned- 
up coat, with a high collar, and wearing a red fez without 
any other distinctive sign, sat H. I. M., Abdul Hamid, Khan 
II., the ruler of Turkey. He was in full view of all. He was. 
I should judge, a man about fifty-five years of age. He wore 
a full beard, appeared grave and thoughtful, quite careworn 
and not fully at ease. He acknowledged the cheers with 
which he was received as he passed on to the mosque about 
three hundred yards from where we stood. 

While the Sultan was at his devotions, the visitors in the 
pavilion were invited to refreshments in the gardens of the 
adjoining palace. Were I not a C. T. A. man I could have 
sampled the wines and champagne, as well as I did the coffee. 
On leaving for the pavilion each visitor was presented with a 
package of cigarettes. The smoking of cigarettes appears- 
to be a universal custom, and not confined to men alone. In 
about three-quarters of an hour the Sultan returned to his 
palace, and the different regiments marched to their bar- 
racks. The master of ceremonies in the pavilion transmits 
to the Sultan the names of all those who are admitted to the 
ceremony. 

We took a carriage and drove about two miles to the 
Mosque of the "Dancing or Turning Dervishes." who perform 
and hold their exercises Friday afternoons. The mosque was- 
crowded with visitors, all of whom had to pay an admission. 
The Dervishes came in slowly and with measured tread, one b.v 
one, to the number of eighteen, and bowed profoundly to the 
eastern part of the octagonal-shaped building. They ranged 
themselves around the room and squatted. They wore vari- 
ous colored capes and gre3^-colored, funnel-shaped high hats. 
From time to time they bowed profoundly. In the gallery 
one of their number chanted a sort of lamentation. Then 



The "Dancing or Turning Dervishes." 



265 



another played on a flute and kept time by the shaking of 
his head. Three times all walked in their bare feet slowly 
and solemnly about the room. When opposite the eastern 
part, two by two, they bowed to each other. As they did so, 
I noticed that they crossed the toes of their right feet over 
the toes of their left feet. In a short time, at the tap of 
a drum and the continued playing of the flute, they threw oif 




turning dervishes. 

their capes. All of them were dressed in dark green skirts 
and waists, except a fine looking fifteen-year-old boy, who 
was in white. Walking slowly and one after the other to 
the eastern side of the room, they bowed very low with their 
arms crossed and their hands on their shoulders. Then they 
went off whirling with hands extended and eyes closed. 
They turned with such rapidity that their skirts spread out 
at right angles about them. I remained about fifteen min- 



266 The "Sweet Waters of Europe." 

utes looking at them. As I saw no change, I departed. I 
understand they whirl and whirl and keep on whirling until 
they fall. 

A popular place of resort for the people of Constantin- 
ople on feast days is the valley of the " Sweet Waters of 
Europe." We took a row boat on Friday and went to the 
end of the Golden Horn. There begin the " Sweet Waters." 
The way was crowded with row boats. There were certainly 
over one thousand of them. All were making merry in one 
form or another, but yet were very orderly. At the end of 
the water-way, I got out and walked through the valley for 
about a half a mile. The guide told me that some years ago 
robbers at that spot captured a wealthy Englishman and held 
him until he was ransomed for $75,000. We met the Am- 
bassador of Russia with a guard. He had alighted from his 
carriage to walk, accompanied by a friend. I thought that 
the robbers could have another chance for a rich ransom if 
they came in sufficient numbers to overcome the guard. 

We made our way back in the shades of evening. The 
occupants of the merry row boats were indulging in vocal 
and instrumental music. We had to be on the lookout so as 
not to be run down by the many passing tugs and steamers. 

On Saturday I visited some of the bazaars, the Museum 
and the Mosque of St. Sophia. These are in that part of 
Constantinople called Stamboul, the site of the ancient 
Byzantium. ^ The Museum of Antiquities is a very large and 
very fine stone building. The articles and monuments, etc., 
contained in the Museum possess high artistic and archaeo- 
logical merit. But museums, as a rule, are much the same. 
The catalogue of this one contains more than seven hundi'ed 
numbers. I was much interested in the very artistic tomb 
of xllexander the Great, covered with finely carved battle- 
scenes. The skull of the famous General, the '' Conqueror of 
the World." who grieved that he had not more worlds to con- 



In the Museum — The Seraglio. 267 

quer, " is laid on a shelf " for others to gaze upon, and 
possibly point to it as a demonstration of " What fools these 
mortals be." 

There is also an ancient statue of Nero, another of 
Adrian and a bust of St. John Chrysostom. There is also the 
collapsed mummy of King Zeb-Netha, who reigned in Sidon 
two thousand years ago. 

We passed through the Seraglio, which occupies the 
eastern part of Stamboul. There had been the '' Temple of 
Jupiter," the ''Acropolis," the " Warm Baths of Arcadius" 
and the "Blackernce Palace." 

We passed the "Plane-Tree of the Janissaries," who made 
and unmade Sultans until they themselves became the victims 
of treachery. Within the grounds is the ancient Church of 
St. Irene, built by Constantine the Great. It was never con- 
verted into a mosque. It is now an arsenal, but there is no 
admittance. 

I took a drink of good water from the " Fountain of 
Sultan Ahmet." It is near St. Sophia's, and is one of the 
most striking specimens of Turkish art. The building is 
square and entirely of white marble. It is flanked at the 
corners by projecting rotundas. The broad openings are en- 
closed by gratings of wrought bronze. It was built in 1728. 

To enter St. Sophia's we had to cover our feet with large 
slippers which went over our shoes. This magnificent Chris- 
tian Church was erected by the Emperor Constantine in the 
year 325. Destroyed, it was rebuilt by the Emperor Jus- 
tinian I. about 533. He wished that this building should be 
the most magnificent and most enduring of all ages. He 
certainly succeeded in his purpose. 

The Emperor Justinian placed the whole empire under 
contribution to erect the Church of St. Sophia. Ephesus 
contributed eight columns of green marble. Rome sent 
eight columns that had been taken from the Temple at Helip- 



268 St. Sophia's. 

olis. Athens, Delos and Egypt contributed their richest 
ornaments and most precious materials. Three architects 
directed the work of Constantine. The foundations are laid 
upon arches covered with a bed of cement twenty-five feet 
thick. Ten thousand workmen were employed for sixteen 
years. So beautiful and costly is the building that a legend 
prevailed among the people to the effect that an angel 
brought the plan from Heaven and also supplied the funds. 
The splendor and the proportions, particularly of the interior, 
are entrancing. The mosaic ceiling is of gold , the walls of 
precious marble, and the dome of gilded and colored mosaics. 
The gold and silver vessels and the golden altar of incrusta- 
tions of pearls and diamonds, resting upon golden pillars, 
were all confiscated by the Turks. It is said that on the 
festival of its consecration, Justinian exclaimed, as he en- 
tered its portals: "Glory to God who has judged me worthy 
to accomplish this work. I have vanquished thee, Solo- 
mon!" 

Sad, indeed, it is to know that this magnificent temple is 
now a Turkish mosque. The Musselmen have tried to remove 
all vestiges of its Christian character, but in many places 
the Cross is seen breaking through its coverings. May this 
be a symbol of its return and its reconsecration to its former 
hallowed use as a Christian temple. 

In the church is seen a carpet suspended from a column. 
This is said to be one of the four carpets upon which Ma- 
homet used to place himself while praying. There are 
banners suspended on the right of the sanctuary, emblematic 
of the victory gained by the Turks when they took the 
chui'ch in 1453. On the opposite side is the tribune for the 
Sultan, enclosed within the mosque's gilded lattice work. 
When he worships he is hidden from the sight of the people. 

I ascended to the upper gallery by a series of paved in- 
clines. They are so strong and broad that a carriage could 



In St. Sophia's. 



269 



be driven up to the gallery. From the galleries one can 
probably get the best view of the interior. 

St. Sophia's is the oldest building in the world now being- 
used for public service. 

The guardian or one of the Musselmen kept close to me 
while I wandered about and examined the Church of St. 
Sophia, except when I went to the gallery. 




INTERIOR OP ST. SOPHIA'S. 



When we entered the passageway leading to the gallery, 
the Turk locked the big door and remained outside. I 
thought that strange, and I said to the guide: "He has 
locked that door and remained outside." 

" Yes, I know," he said. 

I remarked that the passage incline was very retired and 
quiet and rather dark. 



270 In a Dangerous Situation. 

" yes," he said, " people might be strangled here and 
robbed and nobody would ever hear it." 

" If any attempt should be made now, it would not be 
well for the aggressor," I replied. 

"Why? You got something?" he said, quickly. 

" Yes, I have," I replied. I then took from my pocket a 
cartridge and asked: "Do you know what this is?" 

"Yes. You use him?" 

"Certainly I would before I would permit myself to be 
strangled." 

" Ah, well, never mind. If custom-house officer he ask 
you if you got a revolver, and if you say no, he believe you. 
If he ask me, and I say no, he search me." 

"Well," said I, "he did not ask me; but I have a 
revolver." 

This incident may not have meant much, but I felt sus- 
picious when I found that two other Turks were apparently 
awaiting us in the large gallery. They had a confidential 
and interested talk with the guide. Meantime I kept my 
finger on the trigger of my revolver in my overcoat pocket. 
I kept at a good distance from the trio and appeared quite 
indifferent. I finally started down the passageway and 
knocked at the big door, whicli was opened by the Mussel- 
man who showed much surprise. I was glad to be outside 
once more. The Turk is a Turk, and therefore treacherous,, 
especially when a Christian may be his victim and he has 
some hope of gain. 

I noticed as we entered the Museum of Antiquities that 
all the statues on the walls without had their heads and 
arms broken off. I inquired into the matter and was told 
that these statues had been so defaced in the time of the 
Iconoclasts. 

Sunday I celebrated 8 o'clock Mass in the Franciscan 
church dedicated to Our Blessed Lady. The church is built 



The Cathedral. 



271 



on the side of a hill. Fifty stone steps descend to it and 
many more than fifty ascend to it from another street. 
•Judging from the tombstones covering its pavements and the 
tablets upon the wall, it is a veritable cemetery. The parish 
is large, five thousand souls being under the care of the 
Fathers. There are about thirty thousand Catholics in the 




MAIN STREET, CONSTANTINOPLE. 



city. The language used in the pulpit of St. Mary's is Greek, 
with an occasional sermon in Italian. Rev. Nicholas Kiefer, 
0. S. F., was the pastor. 

After breakfast I went to find the Cathedral. I think 
the distance to it from the Franciscan Church is about two 
miles. While the Cathedral is very spacious and nicely 
decorated, it cannot be seen from the street except through 



272 The Archbishop. 

an archway. The same is true of St. Mary's. The Cathe- 
dral is dedicated to the Holy Ghost. High Mass was being 
celebrated. The choir consisted of boys in charge of the 
Christian Brothers. They sang very well. A fair-sized con- 
gregation was in attendance. 

I called to see the Archbishop, who is also the Papal 
Delegate and the Patriarch. The door-keeper informed me 
that the Archbishop was indisposed. I presented my card 
and was about to withdraw, when he told me to enter, that 
he would present it to the Vicar-General. In a few minutes 
I was shown upstairs to the Patriarch's parlor. While 
waiting for the Vicar-General, I had time to note my 
surroundings. 

The parlor was spacious and finely furnished. Nine very 
beautiful paintings in gold frames decorated the walls. The 
most striking was a magnificent painting of Leo XHI. It 
Avas life-size, and represented the full figure of the Holy 
Father seated. It was painted in 1887 by Consoli. 

The Vicar-General regretted that the Patriarch was not 
well, and had not been able to see anyone for some days. 
We talked awhile on various subjects, among them, of Con- 
stantinople and also of my trip. The Vicar-General then . 
told me to wait a few minutes while he went to place the 
official seal' on my clerical papers, which granted permission 
to me to celebrate Mass in any church in the Patriarchate. 
When he returned he told me that the Patriarch had kindly 
consented to receive me, notwithstanding his indisposition. 
I was ushered into his presence. It was evident that the 
Patri-arch was unwell. He was a large man with a heavy, 
long, grey beard. He was, I should judge, seventy years of 
age. He inquired about matters in America, asked the name 
of my Bishop and also wished to know if I was acquainted 
with Father de Concillio. I thanked the venerable prelate 
for his kind reception. As I knelt to kiss his ring, he gave 



The Little Sisters of the Poor. 273 

me his blessing. I was much impressed by the venerable 
Patriarch and his paternal manner. 

I then sought the Little Sisters of the Poor. I had some 
difficulty in finding the Old Folks' Home, but I finally got to 
the place. They have a fine, large, new building on the out- 
skirts of the city. It was not then quite completed, but 
nearly so. There were seventy-five old people in the home. 
They were of ten nationahties, but, strange to say, none of 
them were Turks. The good Mother was a Pittsburg lady 
Sister Ambrose of St. John. Sister Josephine of St. John 
is from County Donegal. She was for a long time with the 
good Mother of the Cleveland house at St. Peter's Home, in 
London. The good Mother said that the Donegal Sister was 
the best Turk, or the best Turkish linguist, among the 
Sisters. Sister Josephine said, betraying her Irish wit: "It 
is easy to be that." 

I asked the Mother how they communicated with the 
Turks. She said, as a rule, the Turks all understood Italian, 
and the Sisters used that language. To my question as to 
how the Turks looked upon their work, she said that they 
have no conception of charity, and that they cannot believe 
that the Sisters have left home and friends solely to help the 
old and needy, and have no means except what they beg. 
Being solemn liars and full of deceit and selfishness them- 
selves, they distrust the statements and the motives of the 
Sisters. 

Two of the young Sisters, Sister Naomi and Sister Ursula, 
were anxious to have me call at the novitiate, near Rome. 



274 Yedi-Koule — A Legend. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

THE GREEK SCHISMATICS — THE PATRIARCH — SOME AMUSING 
RECOLLECTIONS OF CONSTANTINOPLE — THE MAGNIFI- 
CENT BOSPHORUS — DOGS OF CONSTANTINOPLE — 
A FIRE — TURKISH FIREMEN. 

One afternoon I took the train for Yedi-Koule to make 
the tour of the old walls. As soon as I arrived there a police- 
man wanted to know whence and when I came, where I 
lodged, when and whither I was going. I had been immedi- 
ately spied as a stranger, and the Turks are suspicious and 
fearful of strangers. The policeman went off to make his 
report, evidently expecting that I would wait to get per- 
mission before going further, but I went off, too, and in a 
carriage . 

The day proved to be the Easter for the Greeks in that 
country, and Yedi-Koule was crowded. I went to the Greek 
Church about a mile distant. There was a crush of people 
at the Holy Font. I descended the steps to the basement 
where it is located. There was much noise and confusion. 
Every year the Greeks go to Baloukli Monastery to have 
themselves sprinkled with water drawn from the Holy Cis- 
tern. In the cistern are fish both white and brown. The 
following legend is connected with it: 

When the Turks were storming Constantinople, a Greek 
Monk hurried into the kitchen, crying : '' The city is 
taken." The cook replied: ''I will believe it when I see 
these fish spring out of the frying-pan." Immediately out 
sprang the fish half-fried, hence brown on one side and white 
on the other. ■ They were put into the cistern, where the 
legend says they may still be seen swimming. Doubtless 



The Greek Cathedral — A Baptism. 275 

they have something more reasonable than this legend upon 
which to base their confidence, but I could not learn it. 

The ruined walls and towers tell us of departed glory and 
power. They bring to our minds the Emperors Theodosius, 
Heraclius and Leo the x-^-rmenian. The great Palace of the 
Byzantine Emperors presents a fragment of ruins to mark 
the place of its former magnificence. Battering-rams, 
earthquakes and time have left little to mark the grand 
battlements and lofty towers that reached from the Golden 
Horn to the shores of the Marmora Sea. " Sic transit gloria 
mundi." 

I went to visit the Cathedral of the non-united Greeks. 
In it is a portion of the True Cross, it is claimed, the other 
part being in Rome. They also point out a portion of the 
Pillar of the Scourging; the throne and the pulpit of St. .John 
Chrysostom, into which I ascended. They claim to possess 
and show the remains of St. Solomone, St. Euphemia and St. 
Theophon, Martyrs. The church is dedicated to St. George. 

While I was there an infant was baptised. I was much 
interested in the ceremony. There were present, besides the 
sponsors, about a dozen old and young. Each one was 
given a lighted taper. I refused to participate so intimately 
in the ceremony. The water at a proper temperature was 
placed in the large silver urn upon which was fastened a 
Cross. Upon the Cross were the three lighted tapers. The 
priest blessed the water with ceremonies similar to those we 
use on Holy Saturday. Incense was also used with the cen- 
ser. The child, just before its immersion, was entirely nude, 
and was anointed by the priest on the eyes, the ears, the lips, 
the breast, the back, under the arms, on the palms and the 
back of the hands, on the feet and on the head. Then the 
god-father had oil poured into his hands which he spread over 
and rubbed on the child's head. In the meantime, those 
about the font chanted and frequently blessed themselves. I 



276 A Visit to the Greek Patriarch. 

noticed that in doing so, they formed the Cross from the 
right to the left shoulder. 

The priest took the child and dipped it in the water three 
times; the last time it was entirely submerged. Then it was 
anointed with oil from another vessel about as before. 
While held by the godfather, the child was incensed from 
the four different points of the compass, while sponsors and 
priest passed about the urn, stopping for the incensing. The 
child was blessed with the missal. Then with the scissors 
the priest cut off some hair above each ear, over the fore- 
head, and from the back of the child's head. The conferring 
of Baptism with all these ceremonies must have consumed 
three-quarters of an hour. 

I was told that the Episcopal Archbishop of Canterbury 
had visited the Greek Patriarch a month before to propose a 
Church union. He was told that the question would have to 
be referred to the Holy Synod. 

In 857 the Patriarch Photius proclaimed the great Schism 
of the East, by which the Greek Church was separated from 
the Catholic because it rejected the authority of the Pope 
and went astray on the doctrine of the Holy Trinity. 

I wished to see the head of the non-united Greek Church, 
the disciple of Photius, so I called to see the Greek Patriarch. 
I had a lengthy interview with an ecclesiastic at the palace. 
He wished to know if I had a letter of introduction from the 
United States Minister. I told him that I had not thought 
of such a thing. He wished to know why I wanted to see 
the Patriarch. I told him that I was on a tour around the 
world and, being in Constantinople, I wished to see the Patri- 
arch; that I had seen the Sultan, and that I wanted to write 
something home about my visit. Two or three other attend- 
ants came to listen. The ecclesiastic particularly inquired 
if I was a Catholic. I told him I was a Catholic priest. He 
then took my card and went away. After a time he came 



The Greek Patriarch 



277 



back and brought me to the apartments of the Patriarch. 
The Patriarch greeted me cordially and wished to know how 
long I had been in the city and whither I was going, etc. 




THE GREEK PATRL4R0K. 



After a five-minute interview, I arose to go. He took my 
hand in both of his and wished me a safe voyage. 

The Patriarch was a man of about sixty years, medium 
height and rather stout, and wore a long, black beard. His 



278 A Ride Up the Bosphorus. 

apartments were spacious, but rather plain, with furniture 
quite worn and somewhat in need of renovation. I noticed 
some steel engravings of " The First Fall of Jesus Under the 
Cross," of the Ascension of Our Lord and of the Assumption 
of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Let us hope and praj' for that 
reunion, which will please the Sacred Heart of Our Blessed 
Lord. 

One day I took a zigzag ride up the Bosphorus as far as 
the Black Sea, a distance of eighteen miles. We passed 
many marble palaces. In one of them lives, or rather is im- 
prisoned, the former Sultan, the brother of the present ruler, 
on the ground that his mind is impaired. When the Turks 
wish to gain an end, the means are easily justified. 

Between Constantinople and the Black Sea are many very 
pretty villages and summer residences . I passed the country- 
seats of many of the foreign ^Embassadors. I remember 
those of Russia, England, France, Germany, Italy and Persia. 

At Roumeli-Hissar are the walls and towers of an ancient 
fortress, built by Mahomet II. in 1452, one year before he 
captured Constantinople. The castle is very picturesque. 
Near this place the current is lessswift than at any other 
place on the Bosphorus. It is said that at this point Darius 
constructed a bridge upon which he marched his seven hun- 
dred thousand soldiers across from Asia. 

I got ofi: at one of the calling places and walked for 
about a mile up the hills to a summer-garden resort. The 
scenery was varied and very fine. Quite a number of pas- 
sengers boarded the steamer on the way back to the city. 

A gentleman said to me: "That man over there don't 
like to look at you.'' I asked the reason. " Because," he 
said, " you are an American, and he is the secretary of the 
Spanish Legation." The feeling was caused by the war then 
in progress between Spain and the United States. "Well, 
then," said I. " he mav look in some other direction." Bv a 



Along the Bosphorus. 



279 




ROUMELI-HISSAR. 




TURKISH PALACE ON THE BOSPHORUS. 



280 Streets of Constantinople. 

Hank movement, the secretary placed himself more at ease, 
and thus the American and Spanish war was not opened on 
the Bosphorus. 

Constantinople has four principal divisions. Pera and 
Galata join, the one being along the docks and under the 
hill, the other being on the summit. Stamboul is across the 
Bosphorus. Scutari is in Asia and across the Dardenelles 
from Stamboul. The combined population is a little over a 
million. 

" Distance lends enchantment to the view." From within, 
the city is not attractive, except in the novel and moving 
panorama of costumes and peoples from all parts of the 
globe, and especially from the Eastern nations. 

The streets are irregular. A street wall be fifty feet 
wide in one place, and not more than twenty a little distance 
away. There may be a sidewalk three feet wide for a dis- 
tance of three hundred yards, and then you will find the 
buildings out to the curbstone. As a rule, the people walk 
in the middle of the street. I asked the guide why the 
people did not walk on the sidewalks where sidewalks could 
be found. " Oh, the sidewalks are for the dogs," he said. 

"Why so?" 

" Oh, they sleep there." 

" Well," I said, " they do not sleep much at night, to 
judge from their barking and fighting." 

" Oh, no," he said, " at night they must stay awake to 
guard their section from dogs that don't belong to their 
department. The dogs are born, live and die in the same 
block. They know each other, and fight all strange dogs 
that come in." 

The dogs of Constantinople are peculiar and numerous. 
Nobody owns them. They are gaunt and hungry. They 
appear to have rights established by prescription. They 
sleep on the sidewalks in groups of three, five and a dozen. 



Just Dogs. 



281 



They lie before the fashionable stores, as well as in front of 
the hovels. Pedestrians who use the sidewalks go out in 
the streets, or carefully pick their steps, so as not to disturb 
the sleeping canines. I could not make out whether this 
was done from respect or fear. When the dogs sleep in the 
streets and byways, as they often do by the dozen, cabmen 
are careful not to run over them. To my question, the guide 




DOGS OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 

said: "When the cabman drives through a big dog, he 
must pay £1, when he drives through a little dog he must 
pay one-half as much." 

"Well," I asked, "how much must he pay if he drive 
through a big man, and how much if he drive throiigh a 
little man?" 

" Ah! I don't know," he answered. 

I counted as many as forty dogs within fifteen yards. 



282 Scutari — Cemeteries. 

One day I made an excursion to Scutari, the ancient 
Chrysopolis, in Asia, and to the summit of Mount Boulgour- 
lon. There is nothing attractive in the town. Scutari is 
the metropolis of Islamism. Thieves, the followers of Ma- 
homet, spread themselves thence through Europe. The 
vicinity is considered holy land, hence the largest and prin- 
cipal cemetery of the Turks is there. In the center of the 
cemetery is a dome, supported by six marble columns. It is 
said that the favorite horse of the Sultan Mahomet was 
buried there. After a journey of an hour and a half, on a 
rainy day, we arrived on the summit of the mount. It is 
said that one of the most magnificent views in the world is 
presented from this summit. On the south is the Sea of 
Marmora, on the north the shores of Asia as far as the 
Black Sea, on the east the Gulf of Nicomedia, the moun- 
tains and the plains of Asia, on the west the Bosphorus, the 
Dardenelles and the whole of Constantinople. 

We returned by another route, so as to reach the Eng- 
lish cemetery. This is finely situated on the bank of the 
Dardenelles. In the center of it is a very fine and very 
large granite monument. It bears the following inscrip- 
tion: 

To the officers and men of the British Army and Navy who, in 
the war against Russia in 1854, 1855 and 1856, died for their 
country. This monument was erected b}^ Queen Victoria and her 
people in 1859. 

On the grave of Patrick McKinnon is the following 
inscription : 

His race is run, his toils are o'er, 
We've left him on a foreign shore, 
Beyond the reach of mortal aid 
His joys and grief alike are laid. 

On returning to the Dardenelles, we missed the steamer. 
AVe took a small row boat, which brought us in about an 
hour and a half to Constantinople. 



Disheartened Tourists. 283 

1 met two young Englishmen at the hotel They were 
down-hearted, for they had not provided themselves with 
passports, and had been detained in the custom-house in 
charge of the soldiers for three hours. An English captain 
went security for them, and they were out on probation. 




A TURKISH FIRE DEPARTMENT. 

The next day they secured passports through the British 
Consul. They remained only two days. They were sick and 
tired of the city and their treatment while seeking to get 
into Constantinople. 

The last night of my stay in Constantinople was en- 
livened by a fire in the vicinity of the hotel. 



A Fire. 284 

The two young Englishmen and myself were talking in 
the parlor when the alarm of fire was given. Together with 
the proprietor and other guests, we ascended the seven 
stories and got upon the flat roof of the hotel. The vicinity 
was illumined by a fire not a block distant. The burning 
building was one of those that jutted out fifteen feet or 
more into the main street. The people hurried by in vast 
numbers, and shouted as they ran to the fire. We waited, 
for what seemed to us a very long time, for the firemen to 
appear. After a time a cry was raised, as some men with 
Chinese lanterns swinging in their hands turned a corner. 
They were followed by over a hundred members of a fire 
company on the run. In the midst of them I noticed a grey 
horse attached to a wagon containing something that glit- 
tered as it passed under the light. This company was soon 
followed by others in semi-military uniforms. I should 
judge that the fire force on hand numbered about five hun- 
dred men. 

The shouting and the disorder were immense, but the 
delay in getting any water on the flames was remarkable. 
After a while we saw a stream, and that was soon followed 
by four or five other streams. " Well, I declare, if they 
haven't got a steam fire engine ! " said one of the English- 
men. " Where is it? " I asked. " Why, see that bright ob- 
ject that is forcing the water," he said. But I told him if 
that was a fire engine we would hear the peculiar noise and 
the working of the pumps and get a glimpse of the smoke. 

The jam about the building and for a block away was 
very great. As the roof fell in and the walls swayed, I 
thought they would fall and probably kill some of the people 
below. A portion of it soon fell outward, but I heard of no 
casuality. I noticed that the streams on the fire were very 
irregular. One fireman had a very advantageous position 
on a balcony over and near the burning building. The water 



Turkish Firemen. 285 

came by fits and starts through the nozzle which he held, 
and often no water was supplied at all. At that time I 
could not understand the reason. A number of streams 
were devoted entirely to buildings in the vicinity, but in 
little danger from the fire. I afterwards learned that several 
fire companies are in the pay of the insurance association. 
They are subject to the orders, not of the fire chief, but of 
the agents. An agent calls a company and commands: 
■■' Leave that building and play on this. This is ours and 
that is not." The fire company obeys the agent. This ac- 
counted for many strange moves that I noticed among the 
firemen. 

The building was entirely consumed. It was fortunate 
that the night was calm. The high stone walls on either 
side of the burning structure prevented the flames from 
spreading. 

The next morning I went to the scene of the fire, and 
fortunately found one of the " fire engines " on the ground. 
The water-box would hold about five gallons. It was about 
two feet square and six inches deep. Two handles gave 
room for two, but possibly by crowding, for four men to work 
the pump. The end of the supply hose terminated in the 
five-gallon reservoir. The fire hose led from this box. This 
fire apparatus or extinguisher had to be lifted and placed on 
a platform in order to give the men a chance to work the 
pump. No wonder that the water was thrown on the fire by 
"fits and starts." Just imagine such a fire department for a 
city of a million inhabitants. 

As one crowd of firemen came bounding along, a man 
standing near me said: "Fire loss will not be the' only loss 
to-night." I asked him why. "Did you notice that fire 
company partly dressed in white?" he inquired. "Yes." 
" Well, those fellows will spend most of their time in picking 
the pockets of the people crowded into the street." That 



286 A Mahometan Funeral. 

was rather a bad reputation for the fire company to carry, 
but the man appeared to know what he was talking about. 

I was quite interested in a Turkish school which was 
conducted at a Mosque. The picture presented will give an- 
idea of how the young idea is taught to sprout in Mahometan 
lands. 

Our barbers may get pointers from the second picture 
for improving the tonsorial art. 

When we went across the Bosphorus to Scutari, we over- 
took a Mahometan funeral. There were no carriages or 
wagons. There were no women, but about fifty men accom- 
panied the remains to the cemetery. The coffin, carried on 
the shoulders of four men, was covered with a loose cloth. 
The red fez of the departed was on the coffin over the head. 
I noticed that the coifin-bearers were often changed. A 
number of men meeting the funeral helped to carry the 
coffin for a short distance. As this happened several times 
when individuals were met, I inquired the reason of this 
service to the dead. 1 learned that it is a rule for Mahom- 
etans who meet a funeral to help to carry the dead, at 
least for a short distance. It teaches to all the lesson of 
our common mortality, in saying to the living: ''Help to 
carry the dead to the tomb; death has come to him; your 
turn is approaching when others must perform that office 
for you." Hence, Mahometans who meet a funeral lend their 
aid to bury the dead, even though they had not known the 
departed in life. 

We have all heard of the massacre of the Armenians in 
the Turkish Empire within the last few years. The govern- 
ment has always sought to exculpate itself from any part 
in the cruelties which made the civilized world shudder. 
I learned from an apparently very reliable source that the 
government was directly responsible for the massacres, and 
that in Constantinople it had issued secret orders that the 



Scenes in the Orient. 



287 




A SCHOOL. 




TRAVELING BARBERS. 



288 The Armenian Outrages. 

butchery was to begin, and the bloody work be concluded 
in the city within fifty-two hours. In that space of time 
over seven thousand five hundred Armenians had been put 
to death by the Turks in Constantinople. Wagon loads of 
the unfortunate victims were carted off" and dumped into the 
Bosphorus after their untimely slaughter. 

I stood in the midst of Turkish soldiers on the spot 
where the bloody work began — on the steps of the Ottoman 
Bank. Soldiers were there then in large numbers, pretending 
that it was necessary because of the fear they had of an 
Armenian rising. 

The gentleman who told me of the facts in the case 
came the next morning and said in a rather excited manner: 
" I have been told that you write to a newspaper in America. 
Is it true that you correspond with a newspaper?" I told 
him that I wrote occasionally. Then he said: "I am very 
sorry that I told you about the massacres." "Why?" I 
asked. "Because if it be published," he said, ''my life 
would not be worth a farthing. I beg that you will not 
send it to the paper." He was somewhat calmed when I 
assured him that I would not indicate in any manner his 
identity, and I promised not to make any revelations that 
would designate him as the source of my information. 

I got from another source information of a similar char- 
acter. Life is valued very lightly in the Turkish Empire. 
One man said to me: "Every night is marked by some 
black deed or by a number of them. How many tales the 
sweeping waters of the Bosphorus could tell — tales that 
would make men shudder." 

The time came for my departure from Constantinople. 
The United States Consul told me that I would need a cer- 
tificate or an identification to embark. I expressed my sur- 
prise at such an unusual proceeding. He replied that such 
was the Turkish regulation. As it could not be helped, I 



A Stranger's Predicament. 

submitted and contributed a dollar, which, I suppose, went 
to swell the perquisites of the consul. However, I found 
that a passport was needed to get in and another to get out 
of Constantinople. This had to be shown first at the custom- 
house, and afterwards to the police afloat in a small boat on 
the Bosphorus. 

I had heard of a stranger whom the police met in the 
city. When his passport was asked for he said : " I have 
none." "You cannot stay here without a passport," said 
the police. "Then I will leave," he said. "But you cannot 
leave without a passport!" returned the officers. So there 
he was. 

As the steamer made its way from Constantinople, I felt 
much like the man who had gone to a picnic. When he got 
back, a friend asked him: " How did you like it?" He said: 
" Oh, I was so glad to get home that I was glad I went." I 
was indeed glad that I had gone to Constantinople and had 
remained there for some days, but I rejoiced when the time 
for my departure came. 



290 PiR^us, Greece. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

PIR^US, GREECE — ATHENS — THE ROYAL PALACE — AMID THE 

CLASSIC RUINS — FAMOUS TEMPLES AND ANTIQUITIES 

— PATRAS— GREEK SOLDIERS — CORINTH — THE 

CELEBRATED ISLAND OF CORFU. 

Early on Thursday morning, the 28th of April, the 
steamer anchored before Pirseus, a seaport of Greece, not 
far from Athens. In fact, it is the seaport of Athens. I 
went ashore and sought the Catholic Church. A native in- 
sisted on showing me the way. He offered his services for 
a franc, and then reduced his price to half that sum. 

After a walk of fifteen minutes, we arrived at the church, 
a neat but unpretentious brick building. I had to wait for 
some time, as it was rather early. The " guide " wanted his 
pay. I had not the change. He offered to go and get the 
money changed. I was afraid that he would not find his 
way back. Experience had taught me to be very suspicious 
of guides. He said in broken English: " I am a nice, nice 
man." He meant to say, "I am an honest man," and that 
he had not worked for many a day before I met him, but 
just then he had a job waiting for him. I told him he might 
go to his job and call back. No, he needed that half franc 
for his breakfast. However, I made him wait for a few min- 
utes, as I had no other company at the time. He was in 
great distress to get away, so finally I let him off. 

The pastor of the church proved to be the Vicar-General 
and a Monsignor. 

My Mass server was twenty-eight years of age. He was 
very small for his years, but had a good growth of whiskers. 
After Mass I asked him if he could not go to Athens with 



Athens. 



291 



me, and show me about the city. He said that he would ask 
his mother. I went with him. His mother was a German 
widow, who had come to Greece some fifteen years before. 
Permission having been obtained, the boy and I went to 
Athens, which is about five miles from Pirseus. 




THE STADIUM. 



Athens is a very fine city. The streets are clean, well 
paved and wide. There are very many handsome buildings, 
and a number of them are large and imposing. I visited the 
University, the Hellenic Academy, the Library, the Royal 
Palace, the Polytechnic School, the National Museum, the 
Metropolitan Greek Church, the Catholic School and the 
Cathedral. 

The Cathedral is a modern building, in the form of a 



292 The Royal Palace — The Stadium. 

basilica. The front is of marble' and presents a fine appear- 
ance. The interior of the church was being renovated. I 
had a pleasant chat with the pastor, Father Brindisi. The 
Bishop was not in the city. 

The very fine and spacious Catholic School, with marble 
front, is a donation from the Holy Father, Leo XIII. 

I called at the Royal Palace. I was told that I would be 
admitted at a later hour. The King was at that time walk- 
ing in the Royal Gardens, but nothing was said about the old 
rhyme of "eating bread and honey." No one is admitted 
during his promenade. After listening to some fine music 
by the large military band, I continued my own walk through 
Athens. 

The Royal Palace has an imposing appearance. It is 
adorned with an Ionic portico. The building is about two 
hundred and fifty feet front and four stories high. It stands 
about three hundred feet from the street. There is no fence 
between it and the highway, nor are there any flower-beds 
or grass. People freely pass across the space, making it a 
" short cut " to adjoining streets. The enclosed garden be- 
hind the palace is fine and large and well shaded. It covers, 
I should judge, a space of twenty acres. 

Time plays havoc with man and the works of man. 
There are many evidences of this fact in Athens. Only 
fifteen columns of the Temple of Olympian Jupiter remain. 
Constructed more than one hundred years before Christ, it 
had then more than two hundred Corinthian columns over 
fifty-five feet high and six feet in diameter. 

I went with some interest, to the Stadium, where the 
Panathenaic games were celebrated more than thirty years 
before Christ. I remembered that a number of American 
athletes went to Athens in 1896 to compete on that historic 
spot with champions from Greece and other parts of the 
world. Those who read the accounts of the games at that 



The Acropolis 



293 



time will remember that while the Americans did not capture 
all the prizes, they got more than their portion of the 
medals. 

The Athenians, following out the natural conformation of 
the ground, hollowed the Stadium out between two hills. 
It is somewhat less than seven hundred feet from the en- 
trance to the semi-circular extremity of the arena, and about 




ji,¥,%\^":'' M " i I '' tiling! 









*-8 




THE ACROPOLIS. 



one hundred and ten feet wide. I must confess that I was 
somewhat disappointed in this ancient and renowned scene 
of classic athletic sports. Of course, a large number of 
spectators could be seated on the sloping hillsides, but I 
have seen many athletic grounds in the United States which, 
in my opinion, surpass the Panathenaic Stadium. 

Passing through Byron Street, we gazed on the poet's 
statue and ascended to the world-renowned Acropolis. On 



294 The Areopagus. 

the way we passed the remains of the Theatre of Bacchus. 
Plato says that it could accomodate over thirty thousand 
spectators. 

Still higher up we reached the Areopagus. On its sum- 
mit in the open air in ancient days, sat the Tribune of the 
Areopagus. I remembered that it was upon this famous hill 
that the great Apostle of the Gentiles, St. Paul, preached to 
the assembled people, the sermon beginning with the words: 
" Men of Athens, I perceive that in all things you are too 
superstitious." 

I stood for awhile to try to imagine the scene that high 
hill witnessed on that day, more than eighteen hundred years 
ago. I wondered why the people climbed so high to assemble 
in public meetings. But higher still by' several hundred feet 
stood the Acropolis, the ancient temple of the Greeks. In 
those days of old, this hill constituted the city. It was 
there that the Kings resided and that justice was dispensed. 
It was only afterwards that the city stretched down to the 
plains below. The hill formed an admirable citadel. War 
had often raged around this fortress. There are many 
marks of the fierce assaults made upon it in bygone days. 
Several times the enemy's flag had been planted on its ram- 
parts. It is not so many years since the Crescent waved 
over it. 

At first I thought I could get sufiicient knowledge of the 
Acropolis by gazing at it from below. I was inclined to 
this idea by the fact that the day was very hot and the climb 
very high. However, after I had reached the summit, I soon 
realized that I would have carried away a very imperfect 
conception of the place had I not ascended. The summit, 
which from the plain appears as a little more than a mere 
point, embraces, I should judge, a space of level ground about 
eight hundred by five hundred feet. This is covered by the 
ruins of an immense temple. The traveler wonders how in 



The Parthenon. 



295 



those far-off ages, such architectural taste and engineering 
ability found that manifest and wonderful expression. 

The Parthenon is considered the masterpiece of ancient 
architecture. No matter from what side one approaches 
Athens, this temple is the first object which strikes the view. 
It has stood for two thousand three hundred years and is 
majestic, even in its wrecked and ruined condition. The 




THE PARTHENON. 



building was of marble. I counted eight columns on the east, 
and eight on the west front, and seventeen on each' side. 
From some that had fallen, I found that the columns are 
over six feet in diameter, and about thirty-five feet high. 
There are twenty shallow flutings on each column. I ob- 
served the dim outlines of some Christian frescoes on the 
walls of the Parthenon, showing that some time in the past 
this temple had been used as a Catholic Church. There is a 



296 The Consul. 

fine view from the summit of the Acropolis. Not far away 
is the cave in which the philosopher Socrates is said to have 
been imprisoned, and in which he drank the fatal hemlock 
tea. 

I paid a visit to the United States Consul, Mr. Daniel E. 
McGinley. I was pleased to find him an American who 
appreciated the blessings of freedom. He had been in 
Athens but a short time, being one of those appointed by 
President McKinley. Mr. McGinley's sister and her young 
son were with him. I had a pleasant visit and learned some- 
thing there of the latest Spanish war news. Mr. McGinley 
belonged to the State of Wisconsin, and lived not very far 
from the city of Milwaukee. 

Consuls must get many peculiar calls. While I was pres- 
ent a caller was announced. His papers were presented to 
Mr. McGinley by the attendant. As they were written in 
Greek, the caller had to be shown in to explain what he 
wanted from the official representative of Uncle Sam, He 
soon made it clear that he wanted " help," money for another 
drink. I think another drink would have put him " under 
the table." He went, but 

" You may shatter, you may break the vase, if you will, 
The scent of the roses will hang round it still." 

. Mr. McGinley and his sister induced me to take the trip 
overland from Athens to Patras. I had left my baggage on 
the steamer which was to sail at 3 p. m. that afternoon, but 
after the picture of the trip had been painted, I resolved to 
stay all day and all night in Athens, and start the next 
morning by train to Patras, without returning to the ship, 
hoping to head it off before it left that harbor. 

My German-Greek " boy " had to return home. We had 
got along very well in Athens together. He proved to be a 
good guide. 

Taking a walk about the streets of Athens at night, I 



Greek Soldiers. 



297 




found that, as in other countries of the East, the restaurant 
keepers had plenty of customers. Chairs and tables were 
placed upon the sidewalks, and were spread out into the 
streets. The people drank coffee and wine, smoked and 
chatted until quite late. However, I did not notice any 
scene of disorder. 

The soldiers, as in neighboring nations, are numerous. 
Their uniforms are varied, 
and some of them are very 
peculiar. I noticed some 
of the military wore a 
dress that in Cleveland 
would draw a crowd quick- 
er than a brass band. The 
uniform reminds one of 
the dress in which the 
ballet dancers are depict- 
ed. Instead of attempt- 
ing to describe it, I pres- 
ent the picture of one of 
the warriors. I doubt that 
this uniform came down 
from the battle-field of 
Marathon or the Pass of 
Thermopolse. I could very 
easily surmise that those 
who permitted themselves 
to be so quickly disposed 
of by the Turks in the late 

war were put into this uniform as a horrid example of de- 
generacy. I must confess that I was much amused by the 
peculiar uniform of the soldiers. I sometimes went out of 
my way to multiply my opportunities of meeting them. 

We left Athens on the " express " at 7 a. m. It took us 




A GREEK SOLDIER. 



298 Corinth — The Canal. 

until 4 p. m. to go about one hundred and forty miles, 
or an average rate of fifteen and a half miles an hour. The 
varied scenery on this trip well repaid the fatigue of the 
journey. We had a continual panorama of hill and dale, of 
sea and mountains, of rivers and of gulfs. 

The country between Athens and Patras is remarkable 
for the quantity and quality of grapes and currants it pro- 
duces. The best currants in the world come from that 
locality. We passed for hours through extensive planta- 
tions. Many people are employed in the cultivation of these 
products. 

We passed through Corinth. I was then reminded that 
it was to the Christians of that locality that St. Paul 
preached and sent his Epistles to the Corinthians. Corinth 
was an ancient and celebrated city of Greece on the Isthmus 
of Corinth and near the Gulf of Lepanto. This gulf resem- 
bles an inland lake and is remarkable for its very beautiful 
scenery. 

We crossed the Canal of Corinth just before we reached 
the town. The railroad bridge is about one hundred and 
seventy-five feet over the canal. This canal is only three 
and nine-tenths miles long, but it shortens the voyage be- 
tween Pirseus and Patras nearly two hundred miles. The 
canal is ninety feet wide and twenty-six feet deep. On in- 
quiry I learned that it was completed in 1893 at a cost of 
$5,000,000. It has no locks, being on the sea level. The 
toll is twenty cents a passenger and eighteen cents a ton for 
freight. 

There were some soldiers in our car. I passed a news- 
paper to one of them. He appeared to be quite interested 
in it for some time; so was I, because I noticed that he held 
it "up-side down." 

From time to time the soldiers sang. The songs were 
generally solos. They sang as they do all through the East, 



Patras. 



299 



without any expression, in a nasal, drawling, mournful 
manner. 

Having arrived at Patras, I looked for the steamer that 
had left Pirseus at 2 p. m. the day before. It had not ar- 
rived, so I took a walk through the town and visited one of 
the churches. Patras is the second seaport of Greece. It 




a 



IL i 




IIARBOR AT PATRAS. 



has a population of forty thousand. The streets are laid out 
at right angles and the city is finely situated. 

I went into a photograph gallery and selected some pic- 
tures. I presented a $5 gold piece, but stipulated that 
I was not to get any paper money in exchange, especially 
since I was to leave Greece that night. The photographer 
could not change it, nor could he get it changed. There 
appears to be little but paper money. This is true of all 



300 Corfu. 

Turkey, Greece and Italy. The photographer said as I was 
leaving that he would trust me. I told him that I was 
going to leave Greece in a few hours and go to Italy. He 
said that nevertheless he would trust me. So I got credit in 
Greece. 

The steamer arrived at 6 p. m. I got aboard and found 
my baggage as I had left it thirty-six hours before. The 
steward was surprised to see me, as he thought that I had 
been left in Athens. Ninety passengers came aboard at 
Patras. 

We arrived the next morning at the celebrated Island of 
Corfu. This island figures largely in the annals of the East. 
It was for a long time under the control of England. The 
Hon. W. E. Gladstone, '' the Grand Old Man," was at one time 
the English Commissioner to Corfu. I think it was about 
1863 that England was induced to relinquish its claim, and 
the island became part of the Kingdom of Greece. Who 
ever heard before of England relinquishing any territory ex- 
cept " vi et armis." 

There are over one hundred thousand inhabitants on the 
island. The island and the city bear the same name. The 
fortifications " are very prominent. Corfu appears to be an 
ideal place. 

The steamer was boarded by boatmen and venders of 
articles of almost every description. The money changers 
were many. I was surprised by the number of silver francs 
they offered for a $5 gold coin. I suspected that all was not 
right. I found that certain coins had been superannuated or 
depreciated, and these they were anxious to exchange for 
the gold of the "big-fool steamboat gentlemen." 

One of the hotel runners wanted me to remain over for a 
week. I told him that I had a through ticket. He offered 
to get it extended. I told him that the next steamer on 
that line would not come for two weeks. He then offered to 



The ''Place of the Forty Martyrs." 



301 



get me a ticket on an Italian steamer. I finally told the 
cross-eyed runner that it was useless to tempt me. 

That afternoon we arrived at Santi Quaranti, the " Place 
of the Forty Martyrs." It is a desolate looking place. Only 
two buildings were visible. There was no outlet for the 
steamer, except by retracing our course. I noticed the 
ruins on the hills and the hillsides of many large stone 




CORFU. 



buildings. One of the buildings has nearly three hundred 
and fifty feet front. I inquired and found that the country 
is Albania, a part of the Turkish dominion. Here, in former 
days, a large number of monasteries flourished. But the 
Turks had murdered some and dispersed the remainder of 
the monks, and destroyed the monasteries. 

Some cargo was taken on board and quite a good deal 
was left with the Turks. There was an A^rmenian Catholic 



302 A Priest's Story. 

priest aboard. He told something of the cruelties of the 
Turks. He said that he himself was on the point of being 
murdered by the Turks in his own house, when they under- 
stood that he was of another nationality, and through fear 
of consequences, spared him. This priest was on his way to 
Loretto, Italy, where he was to be stationed. 

The officers asked me a good deal about America in con- 
nection with the war. They wished to learn all they could 
of the resources of the United States. The first officer was 
a CathoHc. While in his room he showed me that in every 
coat he had a scapular. He said that he never ascended the 
bridge of the steamer for duty without the badge of the 
Blessed Virgin. Near his bed was a framed picture of St. 
Anthony, and smaller pictures of other saints. He kindly 
invited me to pay him a visit at his home in Trieste. 



In Sunny Italy. 303 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

IN SUNNY ITALY — BRINDISI — THE BEAUTIFUL BAY AND CITY 

OF NAPLES — ITS MANY CHURCHES — ST. JANUARIUS — THE 

MIRACLE — THE GRAND ARCADE — POMPEII — THE 

BLUE GROTTO — MONTE CASSINO MONASTERY. 

We arrived at Brindisi, Italy, at 5 a. m., on Sunday, the 
first day of the month of Our Lady. 

When the way becomes crowded we are obliged to 
slacken our pace. Italy is so full of towns and cities, and 
the cities and towns are so full of interest, so interwoven 
with historical events, civil and ecclesiastical, temporal and 
spiritual, that the traveler must pause to recall the fame of 
the statesmen and warriors, and to kneel at the shrines of 
the Saints, and contemplate the grand monuments of re- 
ligion. 

When we awoke on the first Sunday of jV[ay, our steamer 
was anchored in the spacious harbor of Brindisi. About 5 
o'clock that morning the passengers began to appear on 
deck. Our impatience to land was curbed by the declara- 
tion that no one could go ashore until the doctor would 
come aboard and give a certificate of health to the passen- 
gers and crew. By the time the physician was awakened 
and on the ship it was 6 o'clock. First the clerk had to 
produce his list of passengers. We passed in line and 
were counted. One was missing. Where was he? The 
clerk was puzzled, the captain was provoked and the passen- 
gers impatient. i\.fter a pause and a search, the lost one 
was found asleep near the chicken coop. He was routed 
out without ceremony. All eyes were turned towards the 
coop. The lost one, still half asleep, came rubbing his eyes. 



304 ' Brindisi. 

He was a sixteen-year-old boy of the ship's crew. We 
greeted him with a laugh that somewhat modified the cap- 
tain's anger. We all passed the examination, and then 
went to the custom house. When my baggage was found 
free from liquor and tobacco, it was " o. k.'d." These are 
the articles for which Italian officers especially seek. 

The cry was raised: "Only ten minutes to catch the 
express train for Naples." 

It being the feast of the Patronage of St. Joseph and 
Sunday, I did not propose to catch the express. I found a 
venerable and rather imposing church, but did not find any 
one about. After a few minutes a purple-clad ecclesiastic 
passed the church square. He kindly arranged so that I 
celebrated Mass without delay. About fifty people had gath- 
ered in the church by that time. 

After Mass, I concluded to take a stroll through the old 
town, as, of course, the express had long gone. 

Brindisi had been a naval station for the old Romans. 
Here also ended the Appian Way. Brindisi is now the prin- 
cipal port for the going and coming of the passengers and 
the mail for India and the Far East. 

I found the city in which Virgil died a place of about 
twenty thousand inhabitants. Judging from the character 
and number of the churches, I concluded that all the people 
were Catholics. I visited three churches and found a good 
attendance at each Mass. 

The streets are narrow but clean, and there was evidence 
of considerable business in Brindisi. However, I learned that 
a heavy blow was about to be struck at its prosperity. The 
P. & 0. Steamship Company, an English corporation that 
does most of the European business with India and Australia, 
was about to make Marseilles its principal European port, 
because the railroad company at Brindisi refused to run its 
tracks to the docks. 



Catching a Train. • 305 

In my walk I met one of a class that is very numerous in 
Italy — a beggar. I made him understand that if he would 
carry my valise to the depot I would give him some assist- 
ance. He assented. I concluded to go to the station and 
get some breakfast, and wait for a train— I knew not how 
long. 

On our way we met a boy who shouted: "The train he 
gone." I told him that I knew that. I asked him where he 
had learned his Enghsh. He told me he had learned what 
he knew around the ships. "The train he gone yet half- 
hour." I replied that it had gone nearly two hours. " No, 
half-hour," the boy insisted. I regretted that I had not 
hurried to the station immediately after Mass. In a minute 
I saw a carriage pass from the station, a carriage which I 
had seen at the dock. I told the boy to run, that possibly 
the train had not yet gone, that it might be late. He ran 
and shouted back: "Now gone." A man cried: "Not 
yet." Another said I might still get it. The ticket office 
was locked. The train was there, but the doors were being 
closed. A man came running down the platform and 
shouted: "Where for?" "Naples." " Forty-two francs." 
I threw down forty-five, but had no time to wait for the 
change. My baggage had disappeared. There was no time 
to reason why or where. I ran to an open door of one of 
the coaches and jumped in. The train was moving, and the 
man was there waiting for his tip for carrying my baggage. 
The ticket agent ran after me with my change. As we 
moved out of the station, I asked the one other passenger 
in the compartment: "What train is this?" "The express; 
two hours late." We sped on and yet faster on. 1 had had 
nothing to eat since Saturday evening, but I expected to get 
a lunch at noon, and was quite content at having caught the 
through express. 

I admired the beautiful scenery through which we sped, 



306 Sunday Observance — Fasting. 

and the many towns through which we passed. However, I 
was sorry and surprised to observe the little regard paid to 
the observance of Sunday. Men and women were working in 
the fields quite generally, and teamsters and others were 
busy in the towns and along the highways. Where the law 
of God loses its force, the laws of man become more coer- 
cive. Human rights are spurned when God's law is ignored. 
They are then measured only by the power of oppression. 
God's laws observed are the fruitful source of many bless- 
ings. The Puritan may err by excess in Sunday restrictions, 
but none of us should encourage the introduction of the 
Continental Sunday. By voice and vote and influence, we 
should seek to preserve this one day for God and for man, 
and especially for the workingman, because his rights are 
the most endangered by godlessness. Temporal possessions 
are not increased by Sunday labor. Man may plant, but it is 
God that giveth the increase. 

Folgia was the place timed for dinner. I felt like the 
Irishman who met a wealthy banker out early in the morn- 
ing. He said to the banker: "Why are you out so early?" 
"I am looking for an appetite." The banker then asked: 
" Why are you out so early?" The Irishman answered: "I 
am looking for something for my appetite." 

The conductor cried out: "I have orders not to wait 
here, as we are so late. All aboard." The sweetness of the 
Italian tongue was lost on me. Locked in a narrow compart- 
ment, without food or water, I thought a great deal about 
that conductor and of the management as the train pulled 
out. I won't tell what my neighbor said. I wondered what 
he would have said if he had had no breakfast. 

At 3 p. m. I got a chance to run to a lunch counter, but 
had to run back quickly with the lunch in my hands, as the 
train again started. The express was turned into a picnic 
train. About 4:30 I got my first glimpse of Mt. Vesuvius — 



Street in Naples. 



307 




BIDE street in NAPLES. 

that mount of terror to the people for ages, that source of 
destruction to the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum. As I 
looked upon it, I could not but think of Bulwer Lytton's 
powerful description of the fearful eruption which buried 
the people and the city under waves of molten lava. I real- 
ized better that fearful catastrophe, as, a few days after- 



308 Naples. 

wards, I walked through the excavated streets and entered 
the well preserved ruins of the houses and the public build- 
ings of Pompeii and Herculaneum, and saw the human re- 
mains which had been preserved in moulds of ashes. More 
than 1800 years have passed since the dreadful days of 79. 
We now walk the silent streets where thousands of people 
had their homes, and. we look upon the skeletons of those to 
whom fearful death came almost in the twinkling of an eye. 

There is evidence to show that the people of Pompeii and 
Herculaneum, in their wickedness, were not unlike the in- 
habitants of the cities of the plain upon which God rained 
fire and brimstone in the days of iVbraham. 

Naples is finely situated on a beautiful bay. The city 
rises in the form of an amphitheatre, from the shores of the 
sea to the top of the surrounding hills. There is much life 
and amusement in the streets. The main thoroughfares are 
wide and clean. The side streets are narrow, crowded and 
neglected. 

I was struck by the number, the great number, of soldiers 
everywhere visible. They were camped in all available 
places, under arms, with sentinels posted. I found on 
inquiring that the authorities were very much afraid of 
bread riots. The riots came, and the bullets flew and many 
fell dead. The real number of the victims was never told. 
Italy wishes to appear well before the world; but her people 
are in a deplorable condition. The whole country is like a 
military camp. Italy, in the number of soldiers everywhere, 
in the condition of the people and in the burden of its taxes, 
reminded me very much of Turkey. '' United Italy" has not 
improved its material prosperity. The strain cannot con- 
tinue. With "an unpaid army and an overtaxed people the 
Ministry cannot last, even the throne of Humbert is in 
danger. Men are trying to decipher the handwriting on the 



Houses of Naples. 



309 



wall, but no Daniel is found to declare what those in power 
fear. 

As a rule, the houses in Naples are very high and fur- 
nished with balconies, and most of them crowded with ten- 
ants. The balconies are often occupied, and especially in the 
evening. They appear to be used also as a means of com- 
munication between neighbors in different apartments. 




PARK AND STREET IN NAPLES. 

During my stay of live days in Naples I was busy visiting 
different places of interest. While I cannot write of all I 
saw, I will give a few jottings of some things that interested 
me. In a strange city I generally found that a drive through 
the streets, parks, etc., was a good means to get an idea of 
the place and to locate points of interest to be afterwards 
visited more at leisure. 

Opposite the Palace of the former Kings of Naples I 



310 Church op St. Francis op Paola. 

noticed in the center of a large open space a veiy fine church, 
with large circular porticos running out to the right and 
left some two hundred feet. The open space and the por- 
ticos were occupied by hundreds of soldiers with stacked 
arms. I made a bold move to enter the church, but was 
stopped by one of the sentinels. Gravely, but leisurely, I 
produced a paper which had nothing whatever to do with the 
occasion. However, it was Greek to the sentinels, and to 
the corporal of the guard. The presumed pass procured me 
respectful treatment, and I was directed into the church. 

The church proved to be that of St. Francis of Paola, 
and one of the finest in Naples. I found one of the priests, 
and was shown through the edifice, and received considerable 
information concerning the structure. 

Ferdinand I. of Aragon, had given the old church on this 
spot to the Hermit Francis of Paola. The present church 
was built in fulfillment of a vow made by the Bourbon 
King, Ferdinand. It was under construction from 1816 to 
1832. The circular porticos are supported by forty-four 
basalt columns. The interior is in imitation of the Pantheon 
at Rome. It is adorned with thirty-six Corinthian marble 
columns. The cupola is the third largest in Europe. Large 
marble statues, finely executed, representing Saints and 
Doctors, decorate and enrich the interior. There are also a 
large number of very fine paintings. 

I arrived in Naples on the day the people were looking 
and earnestly praying for the Liquefaction of the Blood of 
St. Januarius, the Patron Saint of Naples. The Martyr was 
beheaded in the persecution under Diocletian, in the year 
306. The blood of the Martyr is kept in two crystal phials, 
hermetically closed in a silver case and preserved in a small 
tabernacle, also of gilded silver. 

The annual Liquefaction of the Blood of St. Januarius 
is a miracle that is most anxiously and prayerfully, but con- 



The Blood op St. Januarius. 311 

fidently, looked forward to by the Neapolitans. When the 
miracle is delayed beyond the expected time, all are filled 
with desolation and seized with great fear of impending 
calamity in the form of desolating plague or of destruction 
from volcanic eruptions. 

The phials containing the congealed blood of St. Janu- 
arius were brought in solemn procession from the Cathedral 
to the Church of St. Clara. The spacious church was 
crowded in every part. The phials were placed high upon 
the altar in the sight of thousands, and tearful and fervent 
petitions were made for the miracle of the liquefaction. 
Long did the priests and people wait, and most anxiously did 
they pray. At intervals the Litanies were repeated and the 
beads were said and the office recited. Frequently the 
people cried out: "Credo! Credo!! Credo!!!" 

Time and again the phials were examined to see if there 
were any indications of the liquefaction. When none were 
observed, Heaven was stormed, as it were. Finally, the 
liquefaction began, and soon it was complete. The miracle, 
real and undeniable, had again occurred. It was hailed with 
loud and heartfelt acclamations. Thousands pressed forward 
to the railings to kiss the phials. Then a triumphant pro- 
cession was formed, and amid the rejoicings of the grateful 
people, the phials were triumphantly transferred back to the 
Cathedral. 

There are over three hundred churches in Naples, and 
many of them are magnificent in architecture, in decora- 
tions, and rich in their possessions. I visited several of 
them, but will give a sketch of only two or three. 

I was conducted through the Cathedral by one of the 
officials. It is in the form of a Latin cross. It contains 
many tombs, magnificent monuments, rich chapels, fine 
statues and artistic paintings. Many of the churches in Eu- 
rope are veritable graveyards, and are as crowded with 



312 The Chapel of St. Januarius. 

tombs as is Westminster Abbey. Kings and Cardinals, 
Bishops, priests and others in great numbers are buried in 
the Cathedral Church of St. Januarius. 

As a rule, the great churches of Europe have many 
chapels, large and rich, that open out from the main edifice. 

In accordance with a vow, made in 1562, to erect a 
rich chapel in thanksgiving for preservation from the plague, 
the Chapel of St. Januarius was built by the Neapolitans. 
Some idea of the magnifience of this chapel may be gleaned 
from the fact that it cost $1,000,000, in our money. It con- 
tains seven altars, forty-two columns of brocated marble and 
nineteen bronze statues of Patron Saints. The high altar is 
covered with porphyiy, silver and gilded bronze. In front 
there is a silver bas-relief, representing the removal of the 
body of St. Januarius from Montevergine to Naples. 
Hunger, war and plague are represented as flying from the 
city at the approach of the Saint's body. 

The silver bust of St. Januarius, donated by Charles II., 
is covered with jewels, the gift of several Princes. The 
cross of brilliants and sapphires was the gift of Queen 
Caroline in 1775; another is of diamonds and emeralds, and 
the mitre is studded with over three thousand five hundred 
precious stones. 

I was conducted down to the crypt of St. Januarius. 
The entrance is through beautiful bronze gates, adorned with 
bas-reliefs. The magnificent marble ceiling with most deli- 
cate carvings is supported by ten columns of exquisite 
workmanship. There are twelve niches with richly decorated 
altars. The body of St. Januarius is preserved in a rich 
shrine on the main altar of the crypt. Above the altar is 
the crucifix which was found in the Catacombs of St. Jan- 
uarius. 

I was very much interested in the magnificent Church of 
St. Domenic. There is preserved the crucifix that spoke in a 



Church of St. Philip Neri. 313 

miraculous manner to St. Thomas: " Thou hast written well 
of Me, Thomas: What reward shall I give thee?" The An- 
gelic Doctor replied: "None other, Lord, than Thyself." 

St. Philip Neri's is certainly one of the finest churches in 
Italy. It was built between 1592 and 1619 by the Saint 
whose name it bears. The nave is flanked by twelve 
columns, each of one single piece of granite. Connected 
with the church are fourteen chapels, all rich in marble and 
paintings. In one of them is the small ivory crucifix which 
belonged to St. Mary Magdalene of Pazzi. The high altar is 
one of the finest to be found anywhere. It is of alabaster, 
green and other colored marbles. The tabernacle is enriched 
with jasper, agates and amethysts. 

The tabernacle in the Chapel of St. Philip is similarly 
decorated. The large Chapel of the Nativity is of white 
marble, relieved by bands of yellow marble. The very large 
sacristy contains fifty-nine fine paintings. In fact, the 
paintings in the church would constitute a very valuable 
picture gallery. Here are found the productions of many 
celebrated masters. 

Having obtained the necessary permit, I paid a visit to 
the Royal Palace. It is very large, being some five hundred 
feet long. It is beautifully situated, high over the crescent- 
shaped Bay of Naples. 

I will merely "skim along" in describing the dwelling 
place of royalty. 

I waited for awhile in the ante-chamber and the rooms 
adjoining. They are rich in mirrors, in lamps, in Gobelin 
tapestries, bronzes and very fine Sevres vases. 

I was conducted up the large and imposing marble stair- 
case, and entered the grand apartments. As I passed from 
one room to another, I was struck with the large number of 
very fine paintings. It is everywhere manifest that Italy is 
the home of the artist. The throne room is very fine. The 



314 In the Royal Palace — The Arcade. 

throne is covered with a canopy of velvet, embroidered with 
gold. I could imagine what scenes took place there " in the 
days of old." In the hall of the diplomatic body are very 
fine Gobelin tapestries and rich Sevres vases. There are 
also gifts from the crowned heads of Europe. In the palace 
are recreation rooms, dining rooms, smoking rooms, a theatre 
and a very fine chapel. 

This palace is now deserted. The pomp and power of 
royalty have been transferred to other scenes. Those who 
carried the wand of royalty in this palace have laid down 
the sceptre. They have sunk into the grave. Many of their 
^' subjects " will rise from it to " go up higher " because they 
were "faithful over a few things" — the few things and the 
few duties that were theirs. Splendid monuments may be 
erected by wealth, but the only lasting monument is that 
which is built by virtue. 

Speaking of a lord who was dead, one Irishman said to 
another: "He was buried in a stone coffin." "Was he?" 
" Yes." " Well, now, what a fine thing it is to be rich. 
Sure, such a coffin would last a man his lifetime." 

There are few Arcades that surpass the Cleveland Arcade, 
but, notwithstanding local bias, I must acknowledge that the 
Arcade in Naples, named the "Galleria Umberto," is larger 
and finer and more costly. The ground floor is a few steps 
higher than the street, and three other stories rise above it. 
The i\.rcade is constructed in the form of a Latin cross and 
is about seven hundred and fifty feet long. The height to 
the top of the cupola, is about one hundred and sixty feet. 
It appears to be the popular place of resort, especially in 
the evenings, for the people of Naples. A fine orchestra 
furnishes first-class music each evening. At least, such was 
the case during my stay in Naples. The building cost 
$5,000,000. Underneath the ground floor there is a fine 
hall for concerts or theatrical presentations. 



Pompeii — Herculaneum. 



315 



On the 3rd of May I went in a cab from Naples to 
Pompeii, a distance of about nine miles. Before I got to the 
outskirts of the city I met a large ecclesiastical procession, 
with- a number of brass bands and some fifty floats. The 
parish of the Holy Cross was celebrating its own feast day. 
On my return from Pompeii, I entered the church. The 




INTERIOR OF THE GRAND ARCADE. 



floats were on either side of the middle aisle and all about 
the church. The people in large numbers were circulating 
throughout the edifice in which there were no pews. The 
whole scene reminded me more of a fair or a bazar, than of 
a Church festival. 

Herculaneum is between Naples and Pompeii. In fact, it 
is within the lines of the corporation. Part of the excava- 
tion of the buried city has been discontinued because the 



316 Father O'Doherty Again. 

work would have undermined the buildings of the present 
city. Herculaneum and its people fell victims, like Pompeii, 
to the eruption of Vesuvius. I spent an hour or more in 
walking through the ruins which the excavations have brought 
to light. 

One afternoon in Naples, I accidentally met Father 
O'Doherty, from whom I had parted company at Mount Car- 
mel. We afterwards remained together throughout our tour 
in Italy. 

It will be remembered that I referred to some trouble 
he had had with the captain of the British & India steamer, 
upon which he had taken passage from Australia to Colombo. 
' The matter had been referred by Father O'Doherty to the 
directors of the company. He had, in addition, sent a few 
letters on the subject to friends, xlt Naples he found a 
reply. The directors took refuge in the claim that, as Father 
O'Doherty had taken the matter into his own hanas by an 
appeal to his friends, they considered themselves absolved 
from the consideration of the question, and that he might 
do as he saw fit. There had been no appeal by Father 
O'Doherty, but it was stated that an appeal would be made 
in case of refusal to investigate the charges. The position 
was, to say the least, a strange one for a company to take — 
a company appealing to the general public for business. A 
passenger presents evidence that he had been grossly in- 
sulted by one of its executive officers, and the company 
passes it over with a wave of the hand and a challenge to do 
your best or your worst. Possibly the company does not yet 
realize how much such conduct may militate against its busi- 
ness. Catholics are not as powerless in such matters as 
bigots sometimes suppose. Father O'Doherty is well and 
favorably known, both in Ireland and in Australia. The 
B. & I. Company does much business between these countries. 
Possibly some of the expected business will be diverted to 



The "Blue Grotto." 317 

other lines, whose officers are more courteous and consid- 
erate of passengers' rights and comfort. 

Daily an excursion steamer leaves Naples for the " Blue 
Grotto/' Lorento and Capri. We availed ourselves of the 
opportunity. The " Blue Grotto " is under very high cliffs 
some miles from Naples. The steamer stops near the en- 
trance. Men in small boats take the passengers into the 
grotto for twenty-five cents each. The entrance is so narrow 
and low that the passengers have to get down on the floor 
of the boat. With a vigorous push the boat is sent through 
and in. The grotto is about one hundred and fifty feet by 
one hundred feet, and twenty-five feet high. The water is 
very blue, and the boatmen call the attention of the passen- 
gers to the fact. I told them that it would not appear so 
blue if the ceihng had not been covered with blue calcimine. 
The boatmen did not like this remark. 

Considering the more or less danger of getting to and 
from the grotto in a rough sea, the cost and the little to be 
seen, I think the "Blue Grotto" is an imposition on tourists. 
While the distance is not so great as from Cleveland to Put- 
in-Bay, the cost of this excursion is double, or about $2. 
People say that money should be measured by its purchasing 
power. For the tourist, at least, the purchasing power of 
money in these old, lands is not greater than in the United 
States. 

When we got to Capri much ado was made of the fact 
that a Princess had chartered one of the hotels entire, and 
for a whole month. I went to look at the " hotel." You 
could rent as large a building in Cleveland for $40 a month. 

Some of the "Roman Emperors and nobles were accus- 
tomed to sojourn during the summer in Capri and Lorento. 
I looked with a good deal of interest on the precipice, some 
nine hundred feet high, from which Tiberius is said to have 
forced his victims to leap to death. 



318 In the Museum. 

There were some very fine views from the deck of the 
steamer on that excursion. But the day was very wet and 
the steamer not first-class. Many were seasick, and we were 
glad when we cast anchor in the Bay of Naples at 6 p. m. 

The National Museum of Naples is very large and very 
important. Most of the objects of interest found in the ex- 
cavations of Pompeii, Herculaneum, Baia, Luma, etc., have 
been removed to the museum. It contains halls or apart- 
m.ents of mosaics, statuary, paintings, bas-reliefs, bronzes, 
etc. This museum is one of the largest and finest to be 
found anywhere. Even to visit it hastily is a fatiguing task 
to the tourist. 

After five busy days we had seen a good deal of Naples, 
and yet much more time could have been spent with profit 
in that large and remarkable city. But time pressed and 
Father O'Doherty and I took our departure for the Eternal 
City, On our w^ay from Naples to Rome we passed many 
places of interest. The famous Monastery of Monte Cassino, 
high upon the summit, was in full view from the station. 
A book could be written dealing with this historical spot, 
famous for its piety and learning and the illustrious names 
it has given to history. 



The Eternal City. 319 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

SEEING ROME UNDER SKILLED GUIDANCE — SOME EMINENT 

CHURCHMEN — BASILICA OF ST. JOHN LATERAN — TOMBS 

OF GREAT SAINTS — AT THE AMERICAN COLLEGE — 

CHURCH OF ST. AGNES — CHURCH OP ST. CECILIA. 

We looked anxiously for the first glimpse of Rome, the 
Eternal City, once the capital of the world, and for centuries 
the seat of the Vicars of Christ. Night came on before we 
had reached the station. We got a view, however, of the 
famous Aqueducts. 

At the station we were met by Father McCrea, the vice- 
rector of the Irish College. He had come to greet his old 
friend. Father O'Doherty. He brought us to the Pension 
Hayden. However, for my purposes, I changed to the 
Minerva in a few days, to be nearer St. Peter's and to be in 
the company of some friends. 

In Europe the " elevator " is called a '' lift." The " lift," 
as a rule, in Italy is neither large nor powerful. I found 
that in most cases the operator remains below and starts 
the slow-moving " lift " on its way with its load. I do not 
know how it is arranged, but it stops at the designated iloor. 
The occupant is expected to let himself out. After what is 
considered sufficient time the operator below lowers the 
"lift." With two others I entered one of them, but the 
"lift" would not lift. I got out; then it lifted. When it 
returned I was carried up. With some difficulty I managed 
to get out on the designated floor. One guest who had 
been carried up and down twice without having been able to 
get out, called the operator and the " lift " bad names as he 
took to the stairs. 



320 



A Well-Known Writer. 



In Rome I enjoyed the company and frequent guidance 
of Mr. William J. D. Croke, LL. D. I found Mr. Croke to 
be a student of history, archaeology and art by natural and 
by seemingly irresistible bent, as well as by the practice of 
many years, eleven of which he had spent in Rome and Italy. 
Among the Cardinals with whom 1 was brought in con- 
tact by Mr. Croke was Cardinal Agliardi. He is a tall man 

of venerable aspect, with 
a fresh face and grey 
hair. He is renowned, even 
among the Cardinals, for 
his courtliness of manner. 
He has been Ambassador 
Extraordinary to Russia, 
Nuncio to Austria, Dele- 
gate in India, and, I think. 
Nuncio to Portugal. 

Another Cardinal who 
greatly impressed me was 
Cardinal Serafino Vannu- 
telli, who was Nuncio to 
Belgium and afterwards to 
Austria. I met him at a 
reception given by Mgr. 
D. J. O'Connell, Vicar of 
Santa Maria in Trastevere, 
where I also met M. Du- 
chesne. The Cardinal is of princely aspect and ways, and is, 
of all the Cardinals, most often talked of as Papabile, or 
having the qualities and the chances of a Pope. Mr. Croke 
says: "If you want to keep friends with Cardinal Serafino, 
you must always act as though a Conclave were as remote 
a fact as the battle of Philippi or Actium. One, well-known, 
made a mistake in that direction, and forfeited even the 




WILLL4M J. D. CROKE, LL. D. 



Two Eminent Cardinals. 



321 



right of visiting the Cardinal, although he had constant con- 
tact before. That was simply because he alluded to the 
Cardinal's "brilliant future." 

I have mentioned twice the Abbe Duchesne. No person- 
ality is more striking than his. He is among the greatest 
of Catholic historians, antiquarians and critics. His fame is 
so well recognized that, though a devoted Catholic priest, he 




CARD. SERAPINO VANNUTELLI. 



CARD. AGLIARDI. 



has been appointed by the atheis-tical French Government to 
fill the enviable position of director of the French Archseo- 
logical and Historical Ecole de Rome. Thus he has to direct 
the studies of a college of scholars, all of them students of 
distinction and writers. His influence for good is simply 
immense. Certainly his works merit their reputation. His 
" Liber Pontificalis " may be said to be one of the most mon- 
umental works of the kind ever done by any scholar, and 
yet he is only a middle-aged man. His *' Origines du Culte 
Chretien " is an accepted hand-book. His studies concerning 



322 A Visit to Cardinal Satolli. 

the early Saints of Gaul are the best known of his works to 
the general public. The Pope has rewarded his merits by 
sending him a large medallion of massive gold. 

Accompanied by Mr. Croke, I paid a visit to Cardinal 
Satolli, in his apartments at St. John Lateran. We were 
cordially received. His Eminence inquired in a very partic- 
ular and interested way concerning Rt. Rev. Bishop Horst- 
mann. Mr. Croke said: "Your Eminence then knows Bishop 
Horstmann?" "Oh, yes," said the Cardinal, "very well." 
Then the Cardinal said to me: "Present my regards and best 
wishes to your Bishop when you return home." 

I remarked to Cardinal Satolli that I had been present 
when he dedicated the Catholic University at Washington. 
He then recalled the fact that Bishop Gilmour had preached 
the dedication sermon. I remarked that the Bishop was un- 
well at the time, and that I thought it was the last formal 
sermon that he preached before he was called from his 
labors. We had some talk about the Spanish-American war, 
and then terminated our pleasant interview. 

From the Cardinal's apartments Mr. Croke and I went to 
visit the Basilica of St. John Lateran. This is the Cathedral 
Church of the diocese of Rome, hence it is the Pope's Epis- 
copal Church, and contains his Episcopal Throne. Cardinal 
Satolli has charge of this ancient and magnificent basilica. 

• On the large square in front of the Lateran Palace stands 
an obelisk of red granite, the largest, and perhaps the oldest 
in the world. It has a history that covers a period of over 
three thousand and four hundred years. This fact indicates 
that its original home was not in Rome. With its pedestal 
it is one hundred and fifty-four feet high. 

We went first to the Baptistry, which is a building by 
itself. For a long time this was the only Baptistry in Rome. 
A Roman tradition claims that Constantine the Great was 
baptized there in 324. The bronze doors are remarkable for 



St. John Lateran. 



323 



their size and their workmanship. The custodian by main 
strength swung them back and forth that I might hear the 
peculiar musical sound they give out by that movement. 
The Bapistry is large and highly embellished with its columns 
of porphyry, antique marbles, fine frescoes and tasty ora- 
tories. 




BASILICA OF ST. JOHN LATERAN. 

The basilica is very large and very grand. It is over 
four hundred and twenty-five feet long, and I would judge 
about two hundred feet wide. Twelve large pillars sustain 
the roof. Many large statues and imposing monuments are 
to be found in all parts of the Cathedral. The bronze monu- 
ment of Pope Martin is, perhaps, the finest. There are a 
number of richly decorated and highly embellished chapels 
within the basilica. The finest of all the chapels is that of 



324 The " Holy Door " — St Catherine. 

St. Andrea Corsini. The walls are richly inlaid with precious 
stones. Below the chapel, we visited the burial vault of the 
Corsini family. The Pieta there is one of the finest I ever 
saw. Opposite the Corsini Chapel is another chapel almost 
equally as rich. 

In the center of the transept, visible from all parts of 
the basilica, is a high, large and rich canopy. The heads of 
St. Peter and St. Paul are preserved there. The wooden 
table used by St. Peter in the Catacombs is encased within, 
and forms part of the altar under the canopy, which is sup- 
ported by four highly polished columns. 

Mr. Croke called my attention to a w'alled-up door. This 
door of the basilica is called the "Porta Santa" — the "Holy 
Door." 

It is opened only in the year of jubilee. The Year of 
Jubilee, or the Holy Year, was inaugurated on Christmas 
1899. The readers must be conversant with all that concerns 
the Holy Year, as the press has teemed with explanations. 

My second day in Rome was Sunday. I had the privilege 
of celebrating Mass on the high altar in the Dominican 
Church which is sometimes called the Church of the Minerva. 
The high altar is the altar of St. Catherine of Siena, because 
it is built over the tomb of that great servant of God. 

Rome is rich in the tombs of its Saints. The prayers of 
its canonized children must eventually be heard by the 
Almighty for the peace and triumph of the Church. These 
•later days remind us of the troubled times of the Church 
during the life of St. Catherine. 

As a child, St. Catherine of Siena was especially called 
by God to His service. For over seventy years the Popes 
had been exiles in Avignon. St. Catherine was God's instru- 
ment to restore Gregory XL, amid the acclamations of the 
people, to the Papal Throne in the Eternal City. Once, when 
by her prayers and remonstrances, she had ended an insur- 



St. Aloysius. 325 

rection against the Pope, our Lord said to her: "Leave 
these people to their fate, for My justice requires that I 
should no longer suffer their iniquities." Catherine pleaded 
like another Moses for her people, and offered herself as a 
victim for them. 

St. Catherine was a member of the order of St. Dominic. 
She died in Rome, on the 29th of April, 1380, being thirty- 
three years old. She had accomplished wonderful works in 
her short life. Her pure and holy body rests under the altar 
upon which I was privileged to celebrate my first Mass in the 
Eternal City. 

The church is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. It is the 
only ancient Gothic church in Rome. It is very large, has a 
number of richly decorated private chapels and is embell- 
ished with rich paintings and frescoes. 

The following morning found me vested for Mass at the 
altar of St. Aloysius in the large Church of St. Ignatius. 
Beneath that altar reposed the body of the Angelic Youth 
who had pleaded to be permitted to surrender title and for- 
tune for the privilege of serving God in poverty and obedi- 
ence. 

The struggle of the world is for position and wealth. 
The struggle of St. Aloysius was for heaven, and he consid- 
ered that position and wealth were obstacles to his perfec- 
tion. When, in the vast Palace of the Gonzagas, he had 
signed away his rights and title, he said to his younger 
brother, Rudolph: "Well, brother, which of us is the moat 
pleased? I am sure that it is I." 

From his youth he had loved prayer. St. Charles Borro- 
meo had given him his First Communion. He sought to 
honor God at all times. Before St. Aloysius had left home, 
he overheard, in a relative's house, loose conversation by an 
old . man. Immediately he protested, saying: "How dare 
you, an aged man of your station, speak of such things to 



326 St. John Berchman. 

these young gentlemen? This is a scandal and an evil ex- 
ample." St. Aloysius left the room at once. How many in 
our day, even of those who profess the faith of St. Aloysius 
and hope to meet him in Heaven, are guilty of improper and 
scandalous conversation? 

It was quite appropriate to go from the altar at St. 
Catherine's to that of St. Aloysius, as he had great devotion 
to that Saint. On her feast he first entered the novitiate, 
and on her feast in 1587 he made his first religious vows. 

The Father Provincial called to see him in his last sick- 
ness, and playfully inquired: "How. fares it, Brother Aloy- 
sius?" "I am going." "And whither?" "To Heaven." 
"To Heaven?" "If my sins do not stop me, I hope in God's 
mercy to go there," said the dying Saint. 

When St. Aloysius was leaving home, the people gathered 
and besought him to remain with them and be their Prince. 
He said to them: "I want to be a Prince in Heaven." Such 
he became on the 21st day of .June. " In a short time he 
had fulfilled a long space." 

With all the fervor I could summon, I besought the 
Patron of Youth to intercede for us all, but especially for 
the young who are in the midst of temptation, and inclined 
to forget that God created them to be " Princes in Heaven." 

In the same church of St. Ignatius, but on the other side 
and directly opposite the alter of St. Aloysius, is the Shrine 
of St. John Berchman. I had the privilege also of celebrat- 
ing Mass on the altar of this Saint who, with St. Aloysius 
and St. Stanislas, form a trinity of glorious models for the 
youth of every country. St. John Berchman was born in 
1599, eight years after the death of St. Aloysius. The read- 
ing of his life made a deep impression upon the mind of 
John, who was himself a saintly character. He resolved to 
enter the order of which St. Aloysius had been a member, 
the Order of St. Ignatius. He, too, met with opposition. So 



St. Ignatius. 327 

bright and cheerful at all times was St. John Berchman, that 
he got the name of Brother Hilarius. His motto was: " Not 
so much the doing of great things, as the doing well of the 
ordinary things we have to do." All can put this motto into 
practice and thus become "Princes in Heaven." 

John had a great and constant devotion to the Blessed 
Virgin. He had absorbing love for the Blessed Sacrament 
and for the Holy Mass. For this reason, he is in a special 
sense the patron of Mass-servers. For these, his clients, I 
could not but make a particular memento at the altar which 
enshrines his sanctified body. 

St. John Berchman took up his abode in the former room 
of St. Aloysius, in the Roman College. In that blessed room 
I had the privilege of celebrating Holy Mass. To reach it, I 
had to ascend high up and pass for some distance over the 
flat roofs of the buildings. A convert in the same hotel 
asked permission to accompany me to assist at Mass. It was 
readily granted. 

The altar in the room is a gift and very rich. There are 
many mementoes and relics of both the Saints in that sacred 
place. The sweet recollections of that Mass will linger long 
within the halls of my memory. 

In his last sickness, St. John Berchman recommended love 
of the Blessed Virgin Mary and great zeal for prayer. He 
was lying on a mattress on the floor when the Holy Viaticum 
was brought to him. With an efi^ort he got upon his knees 
and made an act of faith. iVugust 13, 1621, he went to be 
a "Prince in Heaven." 

In the Church of the Gesu is the Shrine of St. Ignatius, 
the great founder of the Jesuit order. Upon his tomb I had 
the privilege of celebrating the Holy Sacrifice of the Mass. 
He had loved to step out at night and gaze upon the calm 
stillness of a starlit sky, lifting his eyes longingly towards 
our true home. Then he would sigh and say: " How vile the 



328 Father Fidelis. 

earth is when we look at Heaven." At the age of sixty-five, 
his soul passed to its reward on the 31st of July, 1556. He 
had done a great work for the Church. His relics are en- 
shrined in a sumptuous chapel. 

In the same magnificent church, one of the finest is Rome, 
is the altar of St. Francis Xavier. The arm and the hand 
that baptized 2,000,000 pagans are there enshrined. Upon 
that altar I also celebrated the Holy Sacrifice of the Mass. 

On the second day after my arrival, by the kind invitation 
of the Rt. Rev. Rector, I dined at the American College. I 
met Father Fidelis, C. P., and Father Angelo, C. P. Father 
Fidelis was formerly well known by the non-Catholics of 
Ohio as Rev. Kent Stone. He was for years the president 
of Kenyon Episcopal College. While in that position, he 
began to write a book, giving the reasons why the invitation 
of Pius IX. for Protestants to present arguments for their 
belief before- the Vatican Council, should be rejected. The 
book was, I believe, to bear the title, " The Invitation Re- 
jected." When it came out the title was "The Invitation 
Heeded." A very instructive and interesting book it is. 
How true that there comes in God's own good time " Peace 
on earth to men of good will." 

I told Father Fidelis that my first acquaintance with him 
had been through " The Invitation Heeded," and that I was 
much pleased to meet the author in Rome, whence the " In- 
vitation " came. He smiled, and then spoke of in how many 
different ways people were brought into the Church. 

Father Fidelis, after becoming a Passionist, was for a 
long time in South America. There he met Christian Reid, 
the talented Catholic writer and novelist. Many will remem- 
ber what I consider her prize book, " Armine." Those who 
have not read it, should do so. It deals with questions and 
errors of the day in a most convincing and fascinating man- 



Father Fidelis' Story. 329 

ner. I know a non-Catholic lawyer who spent all night in its 
perusal. 

Father Fidelis told us the following incident, related to 
him by the authoress, as an illustration of the strange ways 
in which people are brought to the Church: 

Christian Reid had an Enghsh friend, whom she thought was 
well disposed and hence might become a Catholic. It was in 
South America, in which there are many Spaniards, that the in- 
cident occured. 

One Sundaj^ morning on her way to Church, she met her friend, 
who asked her where she was going. She replied: "To Mass." 
" May I accompany 3'ou ? '" he asked. She said that she would be 
much pleased to have him do so. On their way and near the 
church, she saw a Spanish priest with a game-cock under his arm. 
He placed it in a small coop, and then went in and celebrated 
Mass. After Mass he came out, and taking the bird under his arm, 
went off with it to the cock-pit. Miss Reid felt much mortified; 
she thought if her friend had noticed what she saw, all hopes of 
his conversion had fled. However, as he said nothing to indicate 
that he had observed the incident, she possessed a very faint hope 
that it had passed unseen by him. 

They soon parted and he returned to England. The incident 
had almost been forgotten when long after she heard from her 
friend. He wrote: " You will be surprised when you read this. 
You no doubt remember the Sunday when I went with 3'ou to 
Mass. We did not speak of what both of us could not but have 
observed, the Spanish priest with the game-cock. I was thor- 
oughly disgusted with the whole affair for a long time. Then I 
reflected that if such an incident had occurred in a Protestant 
church, that particular organization would have been shipwrecked 
in three weeks. I thought further that a Church that can stand 
such things and still flourish must be divine. So I began to look 
into her doctrine and study it. The result, you will be glad to 
know, is that I myself am now a Catholic. I was baptized and 
made my First Communion last Sunday." 

Father Fidelis will be surprised if he sees this story in 
print. On reflection, I thought it would do no harm. It 
contains a moral. We sometimes make no allowance for 
national customs and national weaknesses. 



330 



Cleveland Students — St. Agnes. 



I had the pleasure of meeting our Cleveland students at 
the American college, Rev. T. O'Reilly, D. D. and Mr. Frank 
Haley. Both were the picture of health and happiness. We 
were glad to meet and talk over Cleveland affairs and Cleve- 
land people. 

Doctor O'Reilly called the following day at the hotel and 
conducted me to the Catacombs, to the Coliseum, etc., etc. 

I was indeed glad to avail my- 
self of his knowledge of those 
places and of several other 
matters in Rome. 

A letter of introduction 
from Rev. P. Farrell, D. D., of 
the Cathedral, procured me a 
very kind reception from the 
vice-rector of the American Col- 
lege, Dr. Farrelly. He kindly 
showed me around on my first 
walk through Rome. A letter 
from his old classmate, Rev. 
John Hickey, of Cincinnati, in- 
troduced me to the Rector, Mgr. 
O'Connell, and enlisted his in- 
fluential offices for me at the 
Vatican. 

Having previously made the 
necessary arrangements, I 
started early one morning to 
the Church of St. Agnes, be- 
yond the city walls. The Virgin Martyr is honored by a 
beautiful church at the entrance to the Catacombs of St. 
Agnes. To reach the church it is necessary to descend some 
fifty steps, divided by about ten landings. The floor space, 
bounded by the sixteen choice marble columns, is about 




ST. AGNES. 



Church op St. Agnes. 



331 



ninety by fifty-five feet. There are six side chapels beyond 
the pillars, three on each side. The rich and exquisite altar 
is under a beautiful canopy, supported by four columns of 
marble. The marble platform upon which the altar is built 
is thirty by twenty-five feet. This rises three steps from 
the floor and is enclosed on three sides by a very fine marble 




.m f « -- 

5SS5W5K: rtSBRJfBSS ? 




ST. AGNES' CHURCH, PIAZZA NAVONA. 



railing. The altar enshrines the body of the Saint whose 
innocence, youth and beauty touched even the hard hearts 
of those present at her martyrdom. While celebrating Mass 
at the tomb of this model of purity and fortitude, I could 
not but recommend to her protecting care the pastor and 
people of St. Agnes' Church at home. 

There is in Rome another church dedicated to St. Agnes. 
It is erected on the place where she was martyred. This 



332 Basilica of St. Laurence — Will of Pius IX. 

place is called " Piazza Navona," and occupies the Circus of 
Domitian. The square is embellished by three fountains. 
The church, which is in the form of a Greek cross, is very 
imposing. I had the privilege, also, of celebrating Mass in 
that church, the place of the Martyrdom of St. Agnes. 

Beyond the walls of the city is the Basilica of St. Laur- 
ence. This is one of the oldest churches of Rome. It is 
claimed that it was founded by Constantine. It is very large, 
and • is also richly decorated and architecturally much ad- 
mired. In this basilica are preserved the relics of St. Laur- 
ence, of St. Stephen, the first Martyr, and of St. Cyriace. 
They are all enclosed within the tomb, covered by a fine altar 
and a rich shrine. Father Benedict, 0. S. F. C, granted me 
the privilege of celebrating Mass on that altar. He also 
conducted me through the church, the old monastery and 
the extensive cemetery. Father Benedict spent some time 
in England. He brought me to the Tomb of Pius IX. and 
showed me his will. 

The following is the exact text of the will relating to his 
place of burial : 

The Vatican, March 15, 1S75. 

My body is to be buried in the Church of St. Laurence, beyond 
the walls, just beneath the little arch which is opposite the so- 
called gridiron, or stone, on which are still to be discerned the 
stains left by the martyrdom of the illustrious Levite. The cost 
of the monument is not to exceed 400 scudi (/,'8o). 

On the exterior of the monument are to be carved a tiara and 
keys, and the epitaph is to read thus : " The bones and ashes of 
Pius IX., Supreme Pontiff. He lived — years. Was Pontiff — 
vears. Pray for him." The family coat of arms is to be a death's 
head. 

The wishes of Pius IX. were carried out at the time. 
But some years after a movement was started to embellish 
the tomb, and to turn the place into a mortuary chapel in 
his honor. Different dioceses contributed to this laudable 



Burial op Pius IX. 



333 



purpose. I was pleased to notice that the Cleveland diocese 
had contributed its share to the memorial. 

Father Benedict gave me a copy of the will of Pius IX. 
He also told me some facts connected with the burial of the 
Pope, who died Feb. 7, 1878. But his remains were not 
transferred until July 18, 1881. The funeral took place at 
midnight, so that the Garibaldians and others of that ilk 




ST. CECILIA. 



would not have an opportunity to cause a disturbance. But 
the emissaries of the secret societies had somehow received 
information. They met the quiet funeral cortege, and sought 
to desecrate the remains of the Pontiff. It was only by a 
manoeuver in getting the hearse through a side street and 
hastening to the Church of St. Laurence, that they were pre- 
vented from carrying out their diabolical design. 



334 Church of St. Cecilia. 

The Church of St. Cecilia is built upon the place of her 
former home, and her body is enclosed by a very rich shrine. 
I said Mass there in her room. The altar stone is the slab 
upon which she suffered martyrdom. Were our church 
musicians better acquainted with the life of St. Cecilia, they 
would emulate her piety, often invoke her aid in chanting: 
the divine praises, and would consider it an honor to partici- 
pate in an office similar to that which the angels render in 
Heaven. St. Cecilia, the Patroness of Church Music, should 
be dear to the hearts of all our choirs. 

The other shrines at which I celebrated Mass in Rome 
were those of St. Philip Neri, St. Paul of the Cross, the Ara 
Coeli, the relic of St. Theresa and at the altar of St. Gregory 
in St. Peter's. 



Received By the Holy Father. 335 



CHAPTER XXVni. 

received by the pope — WAIVING THE ETIQUETTE OF THE 

PAPAL COURT — NOVEL PONTIFICAL AUDIENCE — ST. 

PETER'S, THE WORLD'S CATHEDRAL — THE 

VATICAN — THE SISTINE CHAPEL. 

Every Catholic pilgrim, and especially every Catholic 
priest who goes to Rome, is anxious to see the Vicar of 
Christ, the Head of the Church on earth. So many go to 
Rome from all parts of the Catholic world, and so great is 
■the demand upon the time of the Holy Father, that all can- 
not be gratified in their laudable desire. 

On my first evening at the hotel, I met five priests from 
the United States. They were deeply disappointed in not 
having been able to see the Pope. They had been a week in 
Rome and had received letters from Mgr. O'Connell, Rector 
of the American College. But all their efforts had failed, 
and they were about to leave Rome the following day. The 
outlook was discouraging to me, but I told them that my 
expectation of seeing the Holy Father was still strong. 
When they left they told me that the prospects for me were 
not bright, but they hoped I would succeed. 

When I had my recommendations all properly prepared, I 
went to the Vatican and presented them in person to the 
Secretary. He asked me how long I would remain in Rome. 
To give too long a time would indicate that I was in no 
hurry, and hence the audience could be postponed; to give 
too short a period would be equally bad, as there might be 
too many applications ahead of mine to make arrangements 
in the time. Considering these matters, I gave '' ten days " 
as my limit. 



336 Permission Granted. 

I saw the Secretary on Tuesday. I did not worry much 
about the result, but was somewhat disquieted, since I had 
learned of many disappointments. Saturday, while at dinner 
in the hotel, Mr. Croke suddenly said: "There is the official 
messenger from the Vatican." He came to our table and 
presented me with what I had anxiously sought, permission 
to assist, the following day, at the Pope's Mass. 

It is needless to say that I was much gratified. Mr. 
Croke and others thought that I was very fortunate to get a 
favorable response in such a short time. At the hotel were 
a number of non-Catholics with whom I had been on the tour 
through Palestine. I ventured to see if I could get any extra 
tickets. I got two more. They came at 6 a. m., Sunday. 
I had not told of my efforts to get tickets, not wishing to 
raise hopes only to blast them. 

At first I contemplated giving the tickets to Mr. and Mrs. 
R. C. White of Cleveland; then I reflected that the ministers 
were in a position to use the knowledge they would glean to 
more advantage. I awakened Rev. Dr. Campbell of New 
York, and Rev. Dr. M'Clurken of Pittsburg, and asked them: 
" Would you like to see the Pope?" 

"Most assuredly; but it is impossible," Dr. Campbell re- 
plied. 

" I have two tickets that will admit you; get ready and 
meet me at the Sistine Chapel at 8 o'clock," I said. 

" We are more than delighted," they replied. 

" You will have to get the necessary court dress to con- 
form with the rules." 

" We will be only too glad. Where can we get the nec- 
essary articles for the costumes required?" they asked. 

I told them that the steward of the hotel would see that 
they were properly provided. 

I will not stop to describe the Swiss Guards, the Noble 
Guards, or the walk up the long marble steps and magnificent 



In the Sistine Chapel. 



337 



approaches to the Sistine Chapel. When I got in I found 
the Sistine Chapel nearly full, more than an hour before 
the specified time. The only vacant places were down 
under the gallery. I was assigned to one of them. I was 
not satisfied and wanted " to go up higher." An appeal to 
a member of the Noble Guard availed not; a second trial 




THE SISTINE CHAPEL. 

was equally ineffective. The two ministers were better 
placed than I. They had been quietly trying to attract my 
attention and finally succeeded. 

After a time, I saw an ecclesiastic who was evidently a 
man of authority. I spoke to him and gave him my card. 
I said that I wished to take a few notes for the readers of 
"The Catholic Universe," and hence I wanted a better 
position. He looked around, but found no way to help me. 



I 



338 The Sistine Chapel. 

After a time, I saw him examining the situation. Finally, 
he beckoned to me. I went quickly. He pointed out a place 
near the opposite wall. When I got there I saw a way clear 
to get near to the Papal Throne by walking along the pas- 
sageway near the wall. I took advantage of the situation. 
By taking that place I attracted all eyes. I cast my own 
down for awhile, embarrassed at my own presumption. 

As the Holy Father had not arrived, I began to look 
around. The chapel was full. All the men present wore the 
pregtribed black 'suits, and the women wore black dresses 
and veils. I had been told that the crowds in attendance at 
the Pope's Mass exhibited more curiosity than piety, and 
that opera glasses were as plentiful as prayer books. I was 
pleased to mark the evident reverence and piety of the large 
audience, an audience that represented all classes of society 
and all parts of the earth. About and above us were the 
grand paintings of Michael Angelo. On the ceiling are rep- 
resented the various acts of the Almighty in creating the 
universe. On the wall back of the altar, in a space of about 
sixty by thirty feet, is represented the Last Judgment. On 
the right of Christ are the Saints and the just, supported 
and protected by the angels; on His left are the sinners, 
vainly, but too late, trying to reach Heaven. Below the 
assembled multitude is hell with its fearful torments. The 
demons claim their own as they hurl them to the eternal 
flames, and even claim others, but the angels protect those 
who were faithful unto death. In the center are Christ and 
the Virgin, surrounded by the Apostles and Saints. The 
effect is startling and terrifying. 

A sudden commotion arouses me. The people in the 
chapel are all on their feet. A welcome, loving cry is 
raised. Away in the distance, borne aloft in his chair; ap- 
pears the venerable and beloved Leo XHL He is imparting 
his blessing right and left, as he is carried along. The cry is 



The Holy Father. 



339 




LEO XHL IMPARTING HIS BLESSING. 

raised, and again and again repeated: ''Long live the Pope." 
" Long live Leo XIIL" Tears are falling down the faces of 
nearly all as the Holy Father, in his white habit, is borne up 
the aisle. His eyes are bright and keen, but kind and be- 
nign. His form is stooped. But as he gets out of the low- 
ered chair, I notice that his step is quite elastic. 



340 Received By the Pope — The Papal Blessing. 

Mass soon began. All must have been surprised at the 
strength and sweetness of the Pope's voice. The Papal, the 
celebrated Papal Choir, began the sacred music. The singing 
was sweet and solemn and enchanting. Next to being at the 
•Pope's Mass, I was glad to hear the entrancing Papal Choir. 

After Mass was over, the Holy Father ascended the 
throne and was absorbed in prayer during the celebration of 
another Mass, the Thanksgiving Mass. I was but a few 
feet from him. 

When the second Mass was finished, the Papal chair was 
placed at the altar. Near me was a pilgrimage of clergy and 
laity from Austria. After the Pope had taken his seat, a 
number with red cards in their hands approached the Holy 
Father. I also left my place and went near to the altar and 
listened to the address presented and the reply of the Pope. 
One by one those in the ranks were being presented. I went 
back and took my place among the people approaching the 
Holy Father, two by two. I noticed that one of the Papal 
officials took the red card from each one who knelt before 
the Pope and introduced the bearer. I had no such card 
and I was sure that the oflftcial did not know me. When my 
turn came, I knelt before the Holy Father. The official was 
silent and looked puzzled, evidently the whole ceremony had 
come to a standstill. I concluded that it was time to act. 
As no one else presented me, I presented myself. The lan- 
guage used was either Latin, Italian or French, as the 
speaker chose. 

I said in Latin: "Most Holy Father, I am a priest from 
the United States of America, from the diocese of Cleveland. 
I kneel to ask your blessing on myself and also the Papal 
Benediction, for the people of my parish." 

The Pope graciously held out his hand, and as I kissed 
his ring he said: "Bene," and I received his blessing and my 
petition was granted. 



Waiving' the Etiquette of the Court. 341 

As I arose I noticed quite a number of dignitaries look- 
ing at me in a rather surprised sort of way. The master of 
ceremonies began his introductions again. I spoke for a 
moment to one of the Chamberlains with whom I had got 
acquainted, and said to him without thinking much of what 
I was saying: '' It's a fine day." Then I went to my place. I 
found that others had crowded up there. An ecclesiastic said 
to me as I was getting my position near the Papal Throne: 

" Well, Father, are you not making a mistake in your 
place?" 

"Not at all." 

" But this place is special." 

''Well," I said, "I am special to-day. This is my place. 
Do you not see my beads, medals, etc., which I left here 
after the Papal Blessing?" 

"Why, where have you been?" 

"I have been up to speak to the Holy Father and get his 
blessing." 

"You have?" he asked in astonishment. That ended all 
questions, and I took my place. 

After all was over the Holy Father was carried out by 
the twelve scarlet-dressed chair-bearers. Scenes similar to 
those which took place when His Holiness was carried in 
followed. While being carried in and out the Pope con- 
tinued to bless the people on the right and left. 

At dinner in the hotel, Mr. Croke asked me about the 
Papal Mass, those present, etc. He then said: "You will 
probably get a private audience with the Holy Father on 
Tuesday." 

"I have seen the Holy Father," I answered. 

"I know you have," said he; "you saw him as did the 
others present at the Mass. What I mean is that you will 
get an opportunity of speaking to him and receiving his 
blessing." 



342 A " Native " Astonished. 

" I spoke to His Holiness and also got his blessing," I 
replied. 

Mr. Croke looked at me in amazement. He said: " Now 
Father, don't be joking; for joking you must be." 

I replied: " I am not joking; I would not joke on that 
subject." 

"Well," he said. 'Svhat does all this mean? Please ex- 
plain." 

■ I told him as I have written above. He was still more 
amazed. He said: "Father McMahon, did you not know 
that no one is presented in the Sistine Chapel, unless the 
matter has been arranged weeks before, and then for some 
special reason." 

" I did not. I thought that anyone at the Mass could go 
up, and I wondered why all those people were keeping their 
places in the pews." 

Then Mr. Croke laughed heartily and asked: "What did 
the guards do? What did the officials do when you walked 
up and stood at the throne and then walked into line? W^ho 
introduced you ? " 

I told him that I waved the guards aside, nobody inter- 
fered, and that I introduced myself, etc. etc. 

" Well," said he, " that beats all I ever heard of at Rome. 
I wager that the like never happened in the Papal Court 
before." 

" Well," I replied, " I cannot say that I am sorry for not 
having known the etiquette of the Papal Court. It was a 
case of blissful ignorance." 

Afterwards, I told Mr. Croke that I was much charmed 
and edified by the piety and devotion and deep reverential 
feelings of the people in the chapel, as I had been told a few 
years before of the rude conduct of many present on the oc- 
casion of the Papal Mass. 

Mr. Croke said that there had been many complaints in 



A Novel Pontifical Audience — St. Peter's. 343 

the past of such conduct. It was found that it was on the 
part of non-Catholics, who possess no proper idea of the Mass 
and go there out of mere curiosity, but that for about two 
years a rule had been adopted excluding non-Catholics from 
the Pope's Mass, but still admitting them to audiences in the 
Vatican. 

" Worse and more of it," I said. 

" To what do you refer?" exclaimed Mr. Croke. 

" I refer to your statement that non-Catholics are not 
admitted to the Pope's Mass. I gave two tickets to Protes- 
tant ministers, and both were at the Pope's Mass this 
morning." 

" Your visit to Rome," said Mr. Croke, " is certainly re- 
markable. I guess you hold the record." 

" Well," I said, " how is a stranger to know of all these 
rules and regulations? The ministers acted very respect- 
fully, and afterwards told me how much impressed they were 
with the whole ceremony, and how they envied me my privi- 
lege, as they saw me walking about the Papal Throne and 
speaking to the Holy Father." 

I am not likely to forget the day I saw the Holy Father. 

In the hotel the next day, one of the ministers said to a 
non-Catholic lawyer: "I saw the Holy Father and assisted 
at his Mass yesterday." The lawyer replied: " I'll bet you 
$50 you didn't. I'll bet you $50 to a cigar you didn't. You 
can't fool me." 

St. Peter's is universally recognized as the largest and 
most imposing temple in the world. I will not pretend to 
give a description of it. A volume would be required to do 
that. So perfect are the proportions that its immense size 
does not at first dawn upon the visitor. In fact, I think 
that the first impression is one of some disappointment. So 
much has been written of this noble edifice that free run is 
given to the imagination of the tourist approaching its 



344 The Obelisk- of Caligula — An Anecdote. 

portals. As regards St. Peter's the feet measure better 
than the eyes. After walking and walking, and growing tired 
of walking, one realizes something of the immensity of the 
edifice. Then, when the eyes have feasted on the richness 
of the decorations, on the artistic beauty of the many and 
large mosaic pictures, on the numberless fine marble and 
bronze statues, groups and monuments, and the magnificent 
altars, the tourist recognizes the wealth of beauty in that 
Temple of Temples. Neither one nor two visits suffice to 
reveal the hidden treasures of St. Peter's. 

The circular Colonnade of Bernini, in front of St. Peter's, 
has nearly three hundred columns, forty-one feet high, set in 
four rows, and leaving between them a central passage for 
carriages. On the colonnade are one hundred and twenty- 
six statues, each about twelve feet high. The piazza is one 
thousand one hundred and ten feet by eight hundred and 
forty feet. 

In the center of the piazza there arises an obelisk. Two 
fountains adorn the semi-circles of this vast arena, into 
which an army of one hundred and fifty thousand men could 
be marched. 

A rather remarkable anecdote is related in connection 
with the erection of the Obelisk of Caligula. That no acci- 
dent might happen in raising the obelisk, absolute silence, 
under penalty of death, was imposed on all the workmen. 
When the ropes strained and it was quite evident that they 
would give way under the immense weight, one of the men 
suddenly cried out: "Acqua alle funi" ("Throw water on 
the ropes"). His counsel saved the obelisk. He was a sailor 
named Bresca. As a reward he was allowed to fly the 
Pontifical flag at the masthead of his ship, and was given 
the hereditary privilege of supplying St. Peter's with palms 
for Palm Sunday. Mrs. C. A. Grasselli, of Cleveland, in a late 
visit to the family, found that the privilege is still exercised. 



The World's Cathedral. 



345 



The dome of St. Peter's is the true mountain of this 
spiritual empire, and the hills make a circle of homage 
around it. St. Peter's is the history of Christianity, sung in 
a poem of stone and marble, and a sacred monument to the 
unity, the sanctity, the Catholicity and Apostolicity of the 
Church. 




_^JI^ii 111115 



..i^."l,'i r', ■'»^-*r',**f'*^i Vi ;* V.} 




BASILICA OE ST. PETER'S. 



The mortal remains of eight Apostles, all the Fathers of 
the Church, all the founders of orders, thirty-five canonized 
Popes and Martyrs still await the Resurrection under the 
vaults where their successors will slumber at the feet of St. 
Peter. 

At the foot of the high altar eighty-seven lamps are per- 
petually burning on the circular balustrade on the Crypt of 
the Apostles. They look like a mass of yellow roses. Their 



346 Dimensions of St. Peter's. 

stems are gilded cornucopias. At the foot of the steps, 
Pius VI. is represented kneeling in prayer, his eyes fixed on 
the Tombs of the Apostles. His last desire, as he lay dying 
in exile, was a wish for that burial place. 

This basilica was consecrated . over two hundred and 
seventy years ago. It cost originally $50,000,000. The 
annual expense of maintaining the edifice is from $35,000 to 
$40,000. The new sacristy, which is of much later date, 
cost about $900,000. 

Measured in square yards the Cathedrals of the world 
present the following figures: St. Peter's, 18,000; Milan, 
10,000; St. Paul's, London, 9,350; St. Sophia, Constantinople, 
8,150; and the Cathedral of Cologne, 7,400. 

On the pavement of St. Peter's the length of each great 
Cathedral in the world is laid off and marked as follows: St. 
Peter's, six hundred and thirty-nine feet. St. Paul's, London, 
five hundred and ten; Florence, four hundred and eighty-nine; 
Milan, four hundred and forty-four; St. Paul's, Outside the 
Walls, Rome, four hundred and seventeen; St. Sophia's, three 
hundred and fifty-four. If the portico of St. Peter's be 
included the length is six hundred and ninety-six feet, the 
height of the nave one hundred and fifty, width one hundred 
and sixteen, and length of transepts four hundred and fifty 
feet. From the pavement the dome is four hundred and 
three feet, to the top of the cross four hundred and thirty- 
five feet. The dome is one hundred and thirty-eight feet 
in diameter. In addition to the high altar there are twenty- 
nine other altars. There are one hundred and forty-eight 
columns. 

The portico of St. Peter's would itself make a fine church. 
It is two hundred and thirty-four feet long, forty-three and 
a half feet wide and sixty-six feet high. It is decorated 
■with fine stucco ornamentation. 

The four large buttresses which sustain the dome are 



In the Dome. 347 

each two hundred and thirty-four feet in circumference. 
About the dome in mosaic letters runs the inscription: "Tu 
es Petrus, etc." From the floor the letters do not appear 
very large, but the measurement shows that each letter is 
six feet. 

Rev. P. O'Doherty and I, having obtained the necessary 
permission, ascended to the dome and thence to the ball be- 
neath the cross. An easy spiral incline ascends to the roof. 
It may not be an incline in the strict meaning of the word, 
but it is very nearly an incline. Along this winding way, in 
marble tablets on the walls, are the names of royal person- 
ages who have made the ascent. 

I was much surprised to find dwelling houses on the roof 
of St. Peter's. These are for the workmen constantly em- 
ployed on the building. The dome rises three hundred and 
eight feet over the roof, and is six hundred and thirty feet 
in circumference. Walking around the inside of the dome, 
high above the floor, we had a good view of the interior of 
the church. 

My attention was attracted while in the dome by a noise 
similar to the buzzing of bees. I paused to listen. At first 
I thought that persons were speaking beyond or within the 
walls of the dome. I then perceived that two men were con- 
versing at the other side of the dome. By experimenting 
Father O'Doherty and I found that by placing ourselves on 
opposite sides of the dome, a distance of one hundred and 
thirty-eight feet apart, with our faces to the wall, our lowest 
whisper could be distinctly heard by each. 

We then ascended to the Lantern by an easy stairway, 
which is placed between the inner and outer domes. On the 
top of that is a perpendicular iron ladder which ascends to 
the copper ball under the cross. From the ground the ball 
does not appear more than one foot in diameter. Yet on 
entering it we found that it is large enough to hold sixteen 



348 The Guides — An Incident. 

grown persons. From the peep-hole in the ball we enjoj'ed 
a magnificent view of Rome and its surroundings. 

In or about all the most prominent churches of Rome 
there are guides and " hangers-on." If one of them holds a 
door open to let you pass, he expects a gratuity, though you 
yourself could easily push the swinging door open. They 
keep their eyes on the tourist to note his movements, hoping 
to get some of the contents of his pocketbook. 

One day while going through St. Peter's with note-book 
in hand, I left my hat upon a bench. About fifteen minutes 
later I looked in that direction, and found that it had disap- 
peared. I betrayed no uneasiness, but continued my obser- 
vations. In about an hour's time I got back near the bench, 
but the hat was nowhere to be seen. I had been long enough 
in Rome to suspect that someone had pui^posely removed it 
for a prospective oflFering. Quietly looking around I noticed 
a man, and at once I suspected that he had taken my hat. I 
walked over and told him that I wanted my hat. He opened 
his eyes wide and looked surprised. When I repeated my 
demand he went and brought my hat from behind one of the 
large doors. I took it and continued my walk about the 
church. Then a " guide " came to tell me that I should give 
that man something for finding my hat. I gave him a piece 
of my mind, but told him that I would not pay anyone for 
hiding my hat. 

These " guides " in many cases are nuisances, and ought 
to be abolished. As a rule, they consider that the English- 
speaking tourists are Protestants, and then seek to ingratiate 
themselves by sneers or misrepresentations. It would be 
well if the ecclesiastical authorities would appoint official 
guides, stipulating prices for their services. 

St. Peter's has a very spacious sacristy, but persons are 
apt to consider that the Sacristy of the Vatican is one and 



The Home of the Vicars of Christ. 



349 



the same with that of St. Peter's. They are altogether 
different and in different buildings. 

The Sacristy of the Vatican is the private sacristy of the 
Pope. It is in charge of the Augustinians. It contains 
precious treasures, and hence is carefuily guarded. Having 
become acquainted with Father Locke, a Roman professor 




"'^■^l-V-i Vi-VQii^ 




THE VATICAN. 



and one of the order, he arranged for an hour when Mr. 
Croke and I were permitted to visit the sacristy of the Holy 
Father. The priest in charge showed us the different tiaras 
and mitres and crosiers of the Popes for ages back; the 
chalices, monstrances, ciboriums, etc., many of which had 
been presented by royal personages. I was permitted to 
take them in my hands, the better to examine their jewels, 
precious stones and most exquisite workmanship. We were 



350 The Sacristy. 

then shown the rich vestments used by the Holy Father in 
the canonization of Saints. We were also allowed to see 
the vestments used at other great functions, many of which 
were national offerings or presents from religious com- 
munities, or from noble or royal donors. I saw the tiara of 
Gregory XVI., also the hat which Pius VII. wore for eight 
years in exile. It is a common straw hat, but now covered 
with scarlet. We were then shown the many richly illumi- 
nated parchment missals, and the elegantly bound missals 
used for different festivals. I had never expected to have 
the privilege of entering the Pope's private sacristy and 
there examining its many treasures so intrinsically rich and 
so historically priceless. 

To reach the sacristy we passed through the Papal 
vestry of the Sistine Chapel and a number of the other 
Papal apartments. Some delightful hours were spent amid 
these sacred treasures of the Vatican. There are very few 
tourists who see the sacristy of the Pope and its rich 
treasures. 

The Vatican is the largest and the richest palace in the 
world. It ought to be, since it has been the home of the 
Vicars of Christ for centuries and centuries past. Individ- 
uals, communities and nations have gladly contributed to its 
many treasures. The palace contains twenty courts, and it 
is said to have eleven thousand rooms, including halls, chapels. 
private apartments, etc. But a small part of the Vatican is 
used by the Pope himself. 

With Mr. Croke, who is well informed on all things in 
Rome, I visited the Sistine Chapel for the second time, the 
Scala Regia, in former times set aside for the foreign 
Ambassadors, the Pauline Chapel, Raphael's Stanze, the vast 
galleries of paintings of wide renown, the galleries of statu- 
ary — the masterpieces of the world. 

On another day I had an opportunity to visit the Vatican 



The Vatican Library. 351 

Library under the guidance of one of its officials. I can 
only skim over the rich and rare contents of that treasure- 
house. It contains upward of twenty-six thousand valuable 
manuscripts in the Latin, Greek and Oriental languages. 
The most celebrated and valuable manuscripts cire exhibited 
in glass cases. The great hall is twenty-nine feet high, 
and is paved with marble. Around the pillars are forty- 
six cabinets, which contain the manuscripts. There are 
a number of gifts presented by the following royal per- 
sonages: Napoleon L, Napoleon IIL, William IV. of Ger- 
many, Charles IX., Emperor of Russia, Marshal McMahon, the 
Khedive of Egypt, William I., Emperor of Germany, etc. 

The next hall is the Museum of Christian Antiquities. 
This hall also contains the addresses, bound, which were 
presented to the Pope during his Pontificate. 

There is also a Hall of Ancient Pictures. In this hall are 
also gold and silver trinkets and plate presented to Pius IX. 
by the Emperor of Siam. There are some two hundred 
thousand valuable bound volumes in the library. There is 
one Bible for which $100,000 in gold has been refused. 



352 Round About Rome. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

ROUND ABOUT ROME — ANCIENT MONUMENTS AND RUINS — THE 

PUBLIC BUILDINGS — MAGNIFICENT BASILICAS AND 

SHRINES — THE KNIGHTS OP MALTA — THE 

SCALA SANTA — THE CEMETERIES. 

Rome is a city of some five hundred thousand people. It 
is a bright, clean city, with many fine, wide business streets, 
but in several sections the streets are narrow and winding, 
and so intricate that a stranger is very apt to lose his way. 
The city walls are pierced by fifteen gates. There are 
nearly four hundred fine and commodious Catholic Churches. 
Some of them are the most magnificent temples to be found 
in the world. The stranger is astonished at their cost and 
at the architectural genius that brought them to perfection. 

Rome, in any view, is an inspiring theme for thought. It 
may be called the center about which civil and ecclesiastical 
history has revolved in the past, and from which Divine 
Truth yet radiates to all parts of the world. It still easily 
holds the scepter for sculpture, painting and architecture. 

There are a few, very few, Protestant Churches. These 
seek to reach the people through their bodily wants. Their 
success is not lasting. I passed one that had lost its small 
congregation and had been turned into a machine shop. 

Sundays and holydays appear to be very well observed in 
the city of Rome. The stores are all closed, and as much 
so on holydays as on Sundays. 

On my first Sunday in Rome, I assisted at High Mass in 
the Church of the Gesu. There was a large congregation 
present, and the singing was excellent. An open platform, 
about six by nine feet, is used instead of a pulpit. I noticed 



The Aqueducts— The Coliseum. 353 

an arm chair and a small table upon the platform. The ser- 
mon began by an introduction, which laid down the different 
points of the discourse. At the end of each point in the 
sermon the priest sat down, and the people then did their 
coughing, used their handkerchiefs, glanced about, etc. In 
a minute or two the preacher resumed his discourse. The 
priest was very animated, and resorted to a good deal of 
gesticulation. I noticed that a similar method was used in 
the Church of the Redemptorist Fathers. The platform is 
quite- common in the churches of Rome. 

The first object that drew my attention as I approached 
the Eternal City was the old Aqueduct of Claudius, completed 
over one thousand and eight hundred years ago (A. D. 52). 
Rome is remarkable for its abundant supply of pure water; 
furnished over ancient aqueducts repaired by the Popes. 
Through these Rome receives daily 377,000,000 gallons. 
Cleveland, with four-fifths of the population, uses less than 
62,000,000. 

The Coliseum is a remarkable and magnificent ruin, dedi- 
cated in 80 A. D. It is six hundred and twenty feet long, 
five hundred and thirteen feet wide, one hundred and fifty- 
seven feet high, and seated eighty thousand and had stand- 
ing room for twenty thousand more. The distance around it 
is one-third of a mile. Its dedication was long and bloody. 
Gladiatorial contests and encounters with wild animals con- 
tinued for one hundred days while one hundred thousand 
spectators, seated tier after tier, applauded or called for 
mercy or death by the turn of their thumbs. The blood of 
the Christian Martyrs by the thousands soddened the sand of 
the Flavian Amphitheater. Formerly the Way of the Cross 
was made in the Coliseum, but is now discontinued. The 
Popes have sought to preserve the Coliseum as a historical 
monument. 

Below ancient Rome, and along the fifteen Consular roads 



354 The Catacombs — The Roman Forum. 

which radiated from the Capitol as a center, there existed in 
the third century twenty-six great catacombs. It is calcu- 
lated that their labyrinths measured perhaps one hundred 
miles. The Catacombs formed the cradle of the infant 
Church. Strange to state, the Catacombs of St. Callixtus, 
were discovered only in 1852 by Signor Rossi. Close to the 
Tomb of St. Cecilia reposed the relics of twelve martyred 
Popes. The distinction of possessing a patrician origin 
could not save Pope Callixtus from martyrdom. 

Six million Christians are buried in the Catacombs of 
Rome. 

As I stood looking on the ruins of the Roman Forum, 
the words of Scripture come to me: " With God a thousand 
years are as one day and one day as a thousand years." 
Man and his works are the playthings of time. In that bit 
of narrow valley the interests of the world were debated. 
From time immemorial that spot was the brain and the 
theatre of the Roman Empire. The entire history of the 
people, the most renowned of all peoples, worked itself out 
on that scene, the very soul and sanctuary of pagan Rome. 

Finally the very sight became obliterated. The shovel 
and pick of the archaeologist have uncovered a portion of 
its ruins. With Mr. Croke and alone, I visited this scene of 
departed power and grandeur a number of times, fascinated 
both by its history and by its destruction. " Sic transit 
gloria mundi." 

On a scene as narrow as that of a theatre what won- 
drous events occurred! There Brutus showed the dagger of 
Lucretia. There Cicero fulminated his last oration against 
Catiline; a little distance away on your left the accomplices 
of Catiline in the Mamertine Prison heard the murmurs of 
the people aroused by the orator, and felt their doom was 
sealed. There Cato swayed the people, and there Marc 
Antony spoke against the murderers of Caesar, and bared 



An Ancient Ruin. 



355 



his bloody body to the gaze and horror of the populace. 
There were unyoked the chiefs and kings from the triumphal 
car of the conqueror, and then they were led to the Mamer- 
tine Prison where they were strangled. 

But little of the splendid Forum of the Emperor Trajan 
is now in existence, except the celebrated column. The 
magnificent buildings, founded by the Emperor within the 








FORUM OP THE EMPEROR TRAJAN. 

limits of this Forum, have crumbled and decayed. The 
Column of Trajan was dedicated to that Emperor by the 
Senate in commemoration of his victory over the Dacians. 
The height of the column, exclusive of the statue, is one 
hundred and twenty-seven feet. Sculptured upon the column 
are over twenty-five hundred human figures, besides horses, 
military engines and weapons. The statue of Trajan has been 
replaced by a statue of St. Peter, erected by Pope Sixtus V. 



356 Arch of Titus — The Appian Way. 

The Arch of Titus, on the Via Sacra, was erected to 
commemorate the capture of Jerusalem. One thousand and 
eight hundred years have passed since Domitian dedicated 
this noble arch to his brother Titus and his father Vespatian. 

Titus made slaves of the captive Jews and treated them 
with such great severity that over twelve thousand of them 
died. Seventy thousand Hebrews were then in Rome. No 
Jew will pass under the Arch of Titus. 

" The Arch of Sept. Severus is seventy-five feet high and 
eighty-two feet )vide. It marks the old level of the Forum 
at the Temple of Concord. 

The Arch of Constantine, like that of Sept. Severus, has 
three open arches. It is grand and harmonious and much 
admired. 

The Appian Way is called by the Romans the " Queen of 
Roads." It was constructed by Appius Claudius (B, C. 312) 
as a military road. It is still in perfect condition. At first 
it extended from Rome to Capua, one hundred and twenty- 
five miles. Afterwards it was continued to Brindisi. 

Not far from the Church of St. Sebastian, on the Appian 
Way, is a small circular building which bears the title: 
"Domine quo vadis? " St. Ambrose tells us that at the begin- 
ning of the persecution of Nero, St. Peter fled from Rome at 
the request of his Disciples, who conjured him to save his 
life, so precious for the infant Church. Early in the morning 
there St. Peter met Christ facing towards Rome. The amazed 
Apostle cried: "Domine quo vadis?" ("Lord, where goest 
Thou?") ''I go to Rome to be crucified a second time." 
Peter understood. He bowed his head, returned to Rome 
and suffered martyrdom. The words " Quo Vadis " take their 
title from the place and incident. 

The Pantheon of Agrippa was erected B. C. 27. In this 
unique temple Boniface IV. replaced the statues of the false 
gods by those of the Martyrs in 608. It was here that in 



The Pantheon of Agrippa — The Capitol. 357 

830 Pope Gregory IV. instituted the Feast of All Saints. The 
building has no windows. It is lighted by a circular opening 
in the roof, twenty-four feet in diameter. The rain is as 
free to enter as is the sun through the opening, one hundred 
and forty feet above the floor. The portico rests on sixteen 
enormous monolithic columns of Oriental granite, crowned by 







M 



m m iL 



f^ 

i,^- 



■^r 



^iiCie«S98 »!S^^«ifa.» 



THE CAPITOL. 



the finest capitals that Rome has bequeathed to us. Their 
oblique position produces imaginary perspective, the effect 
of which is to throw the distances back. 

Raphael is buried there. There is the Tomb of Victor 
Emanuel. The granite obelisk in front of the Pantheon was 
erected by Pope Clement XII. over the charming Fountain 
of Honorio Longhi. 

The Pincian is the fashionable park of Rome. About two 
hours before sunset the aristocracy meet there and visit in 



358 The Quirinal Palace — Fountain of Trevi. 

their carriages. The militaiy band renders fine music and 
the tourist is given an opportunity of seeing the elite of 
Roman society. 

Through the Porta Pia on the 20th of September, 1870, 
the followers of Garibaldi entered Rome. Since that time 
the Quirinal Palace has been the residence of the. King. 
The building was begun in the reign of Gregory XIIL, in 
1547. The colossal Statues of the Horse Tamers at the 
entrance to the Quirinal date back to Imperial Rome. 

The Capitol sits on one of the Seven Hills of Rome, the 
smallest, but historically the most important of the hills. 
The former Senate Chamber has been turned into a museum. 

On walking out the first morning after my arrival in 
Rome, I heard a sort of indistinct murmur like that of dis- 
tant waves. Reaching the corner of the street I found my- 
self all at once in front of a magnificent fountain. I was 
dazzled and delighted by sheets of water which tumbled 
foaming and sparkling on every side over a heap of rocks 
overlooked by a building covered with statues. The water 
then appeared to be swallowed up in a cavern. 

I stood before the celebrated Fountain of Trevi, which is 
perhaps the finest in the world. In the midst of the rock- 
work and shells Neptune emerges with his steed apparently 
from the basement of the palace. The pretty and graceful 
bas-reliefs describe the discovery of the Aqua Virgine at 
Tusculum by a youthful maiden in the time of Augustus. 
The aqueduct was restored by Pope Nicholas V. and still 
supplies Rome. 

The American College is not far from the Corso. the 
principal street in Rome. It faces the narrow street of Via 
Umilita. The building was formerly a convent. It is pro- 
tected by the American flag. The Italian Government at- 
tempted to confiscate this College in 1884. President 
Arthur successfullv interfered. The robber government. 



The American College. 



359 



which has confiscated nearly all the church property in Italy, 
was foiled. 

The College was founded by Pius IX. It was opened in 
1860. It is controlled by a Board of American Bishops, who 
appoint the Rector. The Rector has many demands upon 
his time by American visitors trying to get Papal audiences. 




FOUNTAIN OF TREVI. 

They call upon him, irrespective of creed or class. He said 
to me: "I do the best I can, but even then I often fail. We 
cannot get audiences for all." To get a Papal audience is a 
difficult matter. 

St. Mary Major is the largest of the eighty churches 
dedicated in Rome to the Blessed Virgin. An edifying- 
legend is connected with the foundatio^''^of this church. In 
the time of Pope Liberius, A. D. 352, an old couple resolved 
to devote their ample means to the honor of the Blessed 



360 St. Mary Major. 

Virgin. They sought inspiration as to the best medium of 
so doing. On the 5th of August, the Queen of Angels 
appeared to each of them in sleep, and bade them go at 
dawn to the Esquiline, and build a church on a spot which 
they should find covered with snow. The Sovereign Pontiff 
was similarly warned. They found the spot covered with 
snow. There was erected the first church dedicated in 
Rome to the Blessed Virgin Mary. It was called at first 
" Otir Lady of the Snow " and also the Church of Liberius. 
Now it is called St. Mary Major, to show its excellence and 
primacy. 

The interior is rich and rare. The three aisles are 
divided by thirty-eight white columns of polished and lus- 
trous marble from the old Temple of Juno. The Borghese 
Chapel in its dazzling beauty is considered the second finest 
in the world, the finest being in St. John Lateran. 

Christmas is celebrated there with the greatest pomp, 
because there is preserved the very cradle or crib of the 
Infant Jesus. All Rome flocks to St. Mary Major on the 
Feast of the Nativity. 

The high altar is formed by a large urn of porphyry, cov- 
ered by a slab of marble, which is supported by four angels 
in gilt bronze. 

St. Paul's, Outside the Walls, is one of the major basilicas. 
The new church is splendid and most costly. The old basil- 
ica was founded by Constantine on the Tomb of St. Paul, and 
rebuilt with great splendor from 386 to 392. After fifteen 
centuries it was destroyed by fire in 1823. Plumbers work- 
ing in the building had thoughtlessly left fire on the roof, 
from which the conflagration started. It was restored and 
reconstructed on the same site and after the same plan. 

When the Ostian Basilica was destroyed Pope Pius VII. 
was dying. They succeeded in keeping the sad news from 
him. Leo XII. ordered the reconstruction of St. Paul's. The 



St. Paul's, Outside the Walls. 



361 



whole world joined in the work. Schismatical Russia offered 
the gift of an altar of malachite. Mahomet brought as trib- 
ute to the Sanctuary of Christ four columns of Oriental 
alabaster presented by the Sultan. Gold, silver and jewels 
poured in from every side. The church in its beauty and 
magnificence presents a wondrous spectacle, rivalling, and 




INTERIOR OF ST. PAUL'S. 

in the opinion of some, outshining St. Peter's. It has all 
along the friezes the medallions of the various Popes, from 
St. Peter to Leo XIII. The five aisles with their superb colon- 
nades and columns of Paros are reflected in the polished pav- 
ing as in a looking-glass. The altar, covered by a Gothic 
canopy of marble, is supported by four columns of Oriental 
alabaster. 

In St. Paul's is preserved the famous crucifix which spoke 



362 Slope op Janiculum— Church of St. Sabina. 

to St, Bridget. One of the priests lighted the candles on 
the altar, and opened the case so that I could see the cru- 
cifix as I knelt before it. 

The cloister of St. Paul's is remarkable for its age and 
artistic beauty. I spent some time in walking around it and 
admiring the workmanship. 

Not far from St. Paul's is a small chapel which marks 
the spot where St. Peter and St. Paul embraced at the 
Crossing of the Ways, as they separated for martyrdom, the 
one there, the other on the Tiber. 

With Mr. Croke I visited the Slope of the .Janiculum, the 
Monastery of the Order of St. -Jerome. Within this mon- 
astery is the tomb of the poet, Torquato Tasso. He died 
there in 1595. Pius IX. erected a monument over his tomb. 
In another chapel of the same monastery is the tomb of the 
celebrated linguist. Cardinal Mezzofanti, who died in 1849. 

We paid a visit to Tasso's Oak, which is a little distance 
away on the side of the hill. Efforts are being made to 
guard and preserve the poet's venerable oak. There also are 
the tombs of the celebrated Irish exiles, Hugh, son of the 
great O'Neil, and also Roderick O'Donnell. From Tasso's 
Oak there is a very fine view of the city of Rome. 

We visited the Church of St. Pancratius, the Saint re- 
ferred to by Cardinal Wiseman in " Fabiola." Scenes from 
his life are frescoed on the walls. 

In the Church of St. Sabina was the old home of St. 
Dominic. Over the portal of one of the rooms, now a small 
chapel, the following notice is inscribed, but in Latin: "At- 
tention! Here once throughout the night the most holy men, 
Dominic, Francis and Angelus, the Carmelite, were engaged 
in sacred conference." Surely, we were entering on holy 
ground. 

I was shown into a room in the monastery at the window 
of which Pius V. prayed for the victory of Lepanto. Kneel- 



Headquarters of the Franciscans. 



363 



ing at this window, he had a vision of the far-away victory 
in 157 J . In honor of this victory the festival of Rosary 
Sunday was established. 

A little behind where the Temple of Jupiter used to be 
rises the Franciscan Church of the Ara Cffili, the head- 
quarters of the Franciscan Order. The Church contains the 
celebrated Bambino. This is a statue of the Infant Jesus 




interior of ST. MARIA IN ARA CCELI. 



richly bejeweled. Young children, now and then, have been 
allowed to preach before the Statue of the Bambino. 

St. Isidore's Church is in charge of the Franciscans. It 
is famous as the former home of the widely known and cele- 
brated Irish Monks, Luke Waddington, of Cork; Anthony 
Hickey and Father Harold, of Limerick, A. D. 1625. 

In this church is the Tomb of Amelia Curran, the 



364 St. Gregory's — Shrine of St. Leonard. 

daughter of the Irish orator, John Philipot Curran. Miss 
Curran was the affianced of the martyr to Irish liberty, 
Robert Emmet. It was strange to find their tombs so far 
apart, and her remains in a foreign land. Her tomb bears 
the date of 1848. 

We visited the Church of St. Gregory. This church is 
interesting from the fact that from it St. Augustine set out 
on his mission to convert the Anglo-Saxons of Great Britain. 
He knelt on the steps of this church to receive the bless- 
ing of Pope Gregory on his work. In this church there is 
a chapel dedicated to St. Barbara. There is also shown a 
table and a place at it where once an angel sat at dinner. 

After visiting the Farnesina Gallery of famous frescoes 
and paintings, we went to the Church of St. Sebastian, in 
Pollara. The Franciscans have charge of that church. There 
is the Shrine of St. Leonard, of Port Maurice. 

St. Leonard was born in Port Maurice in 1676. He was 
educated in Rome, and became a Franciscan. In gratitude to 
the Blessed Virgin for restoring him to health after a sickness 
of five years, he vowed to give himself to the conversion of 
sinners. His first act after leaving his room was to make 
the Way of the Cross. He went through Italy preaching 
" Either Penance or Hell." He gave three hundred and six- 
teen missions, and in two hundred and sixteen places estab- 
lished the Perpetual Adoration of the Blessed Sacrament. 
He used to scourge himself. " I wish not for rest on earth,'' 
he would say, " but in Paradise." When, weak and exhausted, 
he was urged to omit the Holy Sacrifice, he answered: 
" One Mass is worth all the treasures of the world." On his 
way to preach in Rome he died in 1751, at the age of 
seventy-five. His feast is on the 25th of November. I was 
permitted to enter the room which the Saint had occupied. 
His shrine was opened, and I was shown the body of the 
Saint. Near the tomb is the Shrine of St. Flavian and St. 



Church and Tomb of St. Frances. 365 

Columba. Under another altar in the same church is the 
Tomb of the Venerable John Baptist de Burgundy. I was 
highly privileged to be permitted to kneel at those holy 
shrines and to view their sacred relics. 

We then went to the Church and Tomb of St. Frances of 
Rome. We were lighted down to the shrine. We after- 
wards passed the former home of the Saint. 

St. Frances was a model Christian wife and mother. Duty 
with her was as sacred as prayer. She would quit her devo- 
tions to perform it, saying: " A married woman must, when 
called upon, quit her devotions to God at the altar to find Him 
in her household affairs." It is related that she was called 
away four times in succession from the same verse in one of 
the Psalms in the Office of the Blessed Virgin. As a reward 
for her obedience and patience, she found on returning the 
fourth time that the verse was miraculously written in golden 
letters. She had the privilege of seeing and conversing 
with her Guardian Angel, Her feast is on the 9th of March. 
She passed to Heaven in the year 1440. 

Not very far away from the Church of St. Frances is the 
Church of the Quattro Coronati. These Saints are the 
patrons of all those who are sculptors, stone-cutters or 
stone-masons. Those who follow these occupations have a 
meeting-hall on the grounds, where they recite the office of 
these Saints. There are not many trade societies that meet 
to recite a sacred office. 

In the Mamertine Prison I found two chapels, one built 
over the other. The lower one is called "St. Peter in 
Chains." SS. Peter and Paul were imprisoned there. St. 
Paul converted and baptized the jailers. Processus and Mar- 
tiniannus. 

In the Church of the Holy Cross, erected by St. Helen to 
be the depository of the True Cross, which she had found, 
we met Cardinal Agliardi, ex-Nuncio to Vienna. Mr. Croke 



366 



Church of the Scala Santa. 



introduced me. We were conducted to the remote chapel, 
a chapel carefully guarded and kept locked, which contains 
the True Cross and the relics of the Passion of our Blessed 
Lord. The brother lit the candles and then opened the 
shrine of the most precious relics for us. The relics of the 
Good Thief and the body of St. Theodore are preserved in 
this chapel. 




the holy stairs. 

In Rome is the Church of the Scala Santa, or the Church 
of the Holy Stairs. The twenty-eight marble steps which 
compose it belonged to Pilate's house in Jerusalem. Jesus 
Christ ascended these steps and descended bathed in His 
Precious Blood. Hence they are held in great veneration. 
People ascend them on their knees, meditating and praying 
on each step. Many others were performing this exercise 
while I was engaged in the devotion. 



The Holy Stairs. 



367 








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THE HOLY STAIRS. 



368 Knights of Malta — Non-Catholic Cemetery. 

After ascending the steps the chapel called the Santa 
Santorum is reached. In it is preserved a painting of our 
Savior, generally attributed to St. Luke. At the foot of the 
Holy Stairs is some beautiful marble statuary erected by 
order of Pius IX. 

With Mr. Croke I got permission to visit the head- 
quarters of the Knights of Malta, an order similar to the 
Knights of St. John. They have a very fine enclosed garden 
and a commodious building near the Church of St. Sabina. 
The members are of the first families of Rome. The eight- 
pointed cross v^hich they wear as an emblem signifies the 
eight Beatitudes. When I told of my visit a non-Catho lic 
gentleman at the hotel said: "I am a Knight of Malta. I 
wish I could get to that temple." He was rather surprised 
when he learned that all the Knights are practical Cath- 
olics, and must be Catholics to obtain membership, and that 
they trace their origin back, link by link, to the Crusades. 
I told him that they have in their building a large and beau- 
tiful chapel, with a marble altar, and that Mass is celebrated 
there twice each week. This was news to that Knight of 
Malta. 

I paid a visit to the non-Catholic Cemetery of Rome. It 
is situated near the Pyramid of Cestius. It is evident from 
the inscriptions on the tombstones that Americans, English, 
Germans, Irish, French and other visitors to Rome have been 
buried there. There I found the tomb of Keats, the poet, 
and that of the poet Shelley. 

Percy Bysshe Shelley was drowned in 1822. His remains 
were washed ashore in the Bay of Spezzia and cremated. His 
ashes are in the Roman tomb. It bears the following: 

' ' Nothing of him that doth fade 
But that doth suffer a sea change 
Into something rich and strange." 

In the same tomb with Shelley was interred the body of 



In the Cemeteries. 369 

his friend, Edward J. Trelawney, in 1881, aged eighty-eight 

years. The following lines are on the tablet: 

" These are two friends whose lives were undivided; 
So let their memory be, now they have glided 
Under the grave; let not their bones be parted, 
For the two hearts in life were single-hearted." 

In the older and now unused part of ,the graveyard are 
buried the remains of the young poet, John Keats. I read 
on his tombstone the following melancholy inscription: 

This grave contains all that is mortal of a young English poet, 
who, on his deathbed, in the bitterness of his heart at the ma- 
licious power of his enemies, desired these words to be engraven 
on his tombstone : y/ 

" Here lies one whose name was written in water." 

Februar}^ 24. 1821. 

It appears that the young poet was broken-hearted by 
the criticisms which appeared against him in the " Edinburgh 
Review." 

In the same burial lot, and side by side with the grave of 
Keats, is a grave with the following inscription: 

Joseph Severn, a devoted friend, and at the deathbed of John 
Keats, whom he lived to see numbered among the immortal poets 
of England. An artist. British Consul, 1S79. 

I saw the grave of Gavazzi, the apostate, who was born in 
Boulogne in 1809; and died at Rome in 1889. There is also 
the grave of -John Gibson, the sculptor, who had won renown 
previous to his death, in 1866. I also saw the grave of 
George Perkins Marsh, Minister of the United States to 
Italy in 1882. 

In the large Catholic Cemetery near the Church of St. 
Laurence it appears to be customary to place the likenesses 
of the departed, either sculptured or painted, on the tombs. 
On one of these, with the picture of a beautiful young 
married woman, was the simple, but very expressive inscrip- 
tion: "Dura Lex, Sed Lex" (A hard law, but law). This 



370 The Famous Via Nomentana. 

vividly pictures and emphasizes the decree: "It is appointed 
for all men once to die." 

With Mr. Croke I rode out on the famous Via Nomen- 
tana across the historical Nomentana Bridge over the River 
Arno. Roman history tells us something of the famous 
scenes witnessed in that vicinity in ages long departed. We 
passed through the gate where the Italian army entered 
Rome in 1870. A large number of soldiers are always 
under arms. The old revolutionists fear a new revolution. 

I remained in Rome for seventeen days. They were busy 
days, yet I had to leave much unseen. Mgr. O'Connell, Rector 
of the American College, told me he had spent eight years in 
Rome, and yet he found new subjects for investigation either 
above or beneath the surface. This convinced me that I 
could not, in my limited time, " do " Rome properly. " Rome 
was not built in a day," nor can it be seen in a day. 

My last day in Rome was Sunday. The day was bright 
and beautiful as I made my way to St. Peter's to celebrate 
Mass. I walked slowly through the magnificent basilica, 
and my eyes lingered on the beauty and grandeur of that 
Temple of Temples. 

When I went to the rich and spacious sacristy I was soon 
waited upon and vested. I was glad, indeed, to celebrate 
Mass in St. Peter's. I looked up and read again under the 
dome: "Thou art Peter and upon this rock I will build My 
Church, and the gates of hell shall not prevail against it." 
There is no lull in the battle for Heaven, but there is no 
doubt of the victory for those who remain faithful. 

After thanksgiving I paid a final visit to the altars, the 
mosaics, the statuary, the monuments, the chapels and the 
Tomb of the Apostles. My feet were heavy as I approached 
the portals for my departure from St. Peter's. 

Mr. Croke kindly called at St. Peter's in a carriage to 
take me to the station. When we arrived there, I found 



Adieu to Rome. 371 

that my baggage had not been sent from the hotel as 
directed. I requested Mr. Croke to forward it to Florence, 
as I had resolved not to postpone my departure on its 
account. Just before the train pulled out, Father O'Doherty 
hurried in to tell me that he could not go to Assisi, but that 
he hoped to meet me in Florence. 

On my way to the famous Shrine of St. Francis, a journey 
of nearly five hours from Rome, I began to reflect that I had 
not noticed any song birds in Italy. St. Francis had a 
special love for birds. Naturally, we would expect birds of 
all kinds to abound in a country so beautiful and with skies 
so bright. I began to look for the birds, but I could not see 
any for hours. It appears that in Italy all kinds of means 
are devised to ensnare the feathered tribe, and altogether 
too successfully. For the sake of the farmers themselves, 
and for the sake of the country, the destruction of the 
feathered tribe should be stopped. However, the absence 
of birds is on a par with the absence of joy in a country 
burdened to death with taxes to support a government 
guarded by nearly one million soldiers. 



I 



372 Perugia — Assisi. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

PRECIOUS RELICS AND MONUMENTS OF ASSISI — MEMENTOES 

OF THE SERAPHIC SAINT — ORDER OF ST. FRANCIS OF 

ASSISI — ST. CLARE — THE OLD CONVENT — 

CHURCH OF THE PORTIUNCULA. 

I arrived at Perugia about 3 p. m. It is a town of about 
eighteen thousand. It was the episcopal home of Leo XIII. 
before his elevation to the Papacy. It is finely situated. 
From the high position of Perugia Assisi can be easily seen 
on a clear day. 

I did not remain long in Perugia, but left for Assisi, 
where I arrived about 4 p. m. From the station I looked 
with deep interest at the old town of Assisi, made famous 
by the virtues, the works and the miracles of the Seraphic 
Saint. Though called to Heaven more than six hundred and 
seventy years ago, his memory is fragrant, and his work 
continues in the flourishing order he left to bless mankind. 

Another star, bright in the firmament of God's Saints, 
shines over Assisi, lending additional interest to the old 
town and serving as another magnet to attract the Christian 
traveler to that sanctified spot. There was the convent 
home of St. Clare. Emulating St. Francis in her prayers, 
virtues and penances, God showered upon her special graces, 
and protected her and her spiritual daughters by divine 
intervention. Miracles marked her life, and testified to her 
sanctity. She joined the Saints in Heaven twenty-seven 
years after St. Francis was called to the Home of the Blessed. 

Assisi is a quaint old town of some four thousand. It is 
situated on a high and steep hill, about one and one-fourth 
miles from the station. The streets are mostly narrow, 



Shrine of St. Clare — An Anglican Nun. 373 

winding and walled in. There appears to have been very 
little change for centuries. The roofs are covered with 
ancient tile overgrown with grass and moss. 

I took a walk through the town, guided by a boy whom I 
found in front of the small hotel. I visited the Cathedral, 
and was shown the font where St. Francis and St. Clare had 
been baptized. I was also shoMm a number of ancient and 
valuable paintings. I then assisted at Vespers, conducted by 
the Bishop and the canons of the Cathedral. 

1 paid a visit to the large stone Church and Convent of 
St. Clare. I descended some thirty-five steps on the wide 
stone stairway to the shrine of St. Clare. It was kindly 
opened by the Sisters and illuminated. Both this shrine and 
that of St. Francis are very rich and the center of great 
devotion. I told the Sisters of the Convent of Poor Clares 
in the Forest City. 

At supper in the hotel I was much surprised to find my 
•only companions a nun and a young lady with her. They had 
begun their supper before I got to the dining-room . When 
I blessed myself and said grace the nun paused and also 
blessed herself. We gradually drifted into conversation. 
After a time the nun said: 

" Father, I will doubtless fall^ in your esteem when I iiv- 
form you that I am a heretic — an Anglican Nun." 

Well, I was surprised. .Her habit was much like the 
habit of an Ursuline Nun. The young lady. Miss White, I 
found to be her sister. The " nun," in answer to my sur- 
prise, told me that she had a great love for St. Francis, and 
wished to visit his home and his shrine at Assisi. Her sister 
had accompanied her. They had been to Rome. The " nun" 
had medals, crucifixes, etc., from Rome and Assisi, which she 
treasured. They had, also, with great devotion, visited the 
Shrines of St. Clare and the Portiuncula, and were to depart 
the next day. Their home was in New York. The " nun" had 



374 At the Shrine of St, Francis. 

been a pupil under the guidance of Bishop Doane, of Albany, 
I could not but hope and pray that, being apparently of good 
will and earnest and having a love for St, Francis and St. 
Clare, that God would finally bring this strayed sheep home 
to the One Fold of the One Shepherd. 

Monday morning I had the privilege of celebrating Mass 
at the Shrine of St, Francis, It was lighted and opened dur- 
ing my Mass. I could not but be mindful of my neighbors, 
the Franciscan Fathers, the Poor Clares, the Franciscan 
Sisters and the Members of the Third Order, while offering up 
the Holy Sacrifice at the shrine of their founder and patron, 
the Seraphic Saint, 

There are two branches of the Order of St. Francis in 
Assisi. One of them dwells in the former home of St. Clare 
known as the Monastery of St. Damien. This is outside the 
walls. The other dwells at the church which contains the 
Shrine of St. Francis. The body of St. Clare was buried in 
the Convent of St. Damien, The body of St. Francis was 
buried in the Church of St. George. After Gregory IX. had 
canonized St. Francis he gave a sum of money for a new 
church. Elias, the General of the Franciscans, increased the 
sum, and a magnificent church was erected. It was finished 
in 1230, and the body of the Saint enshrined in it the same 
year. A new church and c(?nvent was built in 1260 where 
the Church of St. George had stood. They were dedicated 
in honor of St. Clare. Her body was transferred thither 
from the Convent of St, Damien in 1265. 

The Church of St. Francis is virtually a triple church. 
From the church on the ground floor we descended to the 
church which contains the Shrine of the Saint, which is 
directly under the main altar. Over the church of the 
ground floor rises the main church, which is embellished with 
fine altars, carvings and paintings. While walking through 
it, I was greeted by: "Why, how do you do," spoken by a 



Old Church and Convent of St. Clare. 



375 



gentleman who extended his hand. I could not place him, 
until he said that I had met him in Rome. He was a convert 
and from Kentucky. He had made the journey from Rome 
on his bicycle, and intended to wheel his way through Europe. 
He regretted very much that he had not known that I was 
to celebrate Mass at the Shrine of St. Francis that morning. 
He had been to Mass in another church, and had received 
Holy Communion. 




CHURCH CONTAINING THE SHRINE OF ST. FRANCIS. 

I paid a visit to the old church and the old convent of St. 
Clare. These are now in the possession of the Franciscan 
Fathers. There I saw the room of St. Clare, the refectory 
and the table where she blessed the bread which was mirac- 
ulously multiplied, the room in which she cured the sick 
Sister, the place where St. Clare sat in the refectory, the 
dormitory, the monstrance which contained the Blessed Sac- 



376 Church of the Portiuncula. 

rament by which she put the Saracens to flight, and the win- 
dow where she knelt when the miracle took place. 

The monstrance is round and open and made of ivory. I 
was shown her breviary and the vase which contains some 
of the blessed bread, and the "Garden" of St. Clare. But 
the garden is not more than eight by ten feet. I was also 
shown the opening in the wall through which St. Clare and 
the Sisters received Holy Communion. In the chapel there 
is a large and remarkable crucifix. It is life-sized and 
carved in wood. Standing in front of the crucifix, the figure 
appears to be gasping in agony. Standing on the left it 
appears just to have given up the Ghost. 

In the choir of the chapel I was shown the place in 
which St. Francis recited the office, and also the place where 
he was hidden when his father sought him. There is also 
preserved, in the chapel, some relics of St. Bonaventure. 

Going down from Assisi to the plain and about a mile 
away in the direction of the station is the Church of Por- 
tiuncula. It is very old and very small. The tourist in vain 
would search the plain for the Church of Portiuncula, but he 
would soon find and admire a large and beautiful church 
built in the form of St. Peter's in Rome. Entering here he 
would discover under its dome the ancient Church of Portiun- 
cula. It is only about thirty-five by fifteen feet. There St. 
Francis spent much time in his devotion. There, Christ, in a 
vision, directed him to go to the Pope, who would grant a 
Plenary Indulgence to all sincere penitents who would de- 
voutly visit the church. Pope Honorius III., who was then 
at Perugia, granted the indulgence. There it may be gained 
daily. At other places presided over by the Franciscans it 
is granted on the 2d of August, the day of the dedication of 
the Church of Portiuncula. This church is presided over by 
the Recollects, or Reformed Franciscans. There is an inscrip- 
tion on this little old church which states that whatever is 



Chapel of the Portiuncula. 



377 




CHAPEL OF THE PORTIUNCULA. 

prayed for sincerely within the church or chapel will be 
granted. Of course, it must be understood, on the usual 
conditions. However, it is a specially favored place, and I 
was glad to be privileged to kneel before its altar and 
within its consecrated walls. 



378 



The Thornless Roses, 



I met there a Franciscan Father who could speak English 
very well. He had spent ten years in London. I got him to 
bless a number of articles for me. I also asked him if he 
had met the "Anglican nun." He had. She had desired 
to get a number of medals and crucifixes blessed. He hoped 
that some day she would be a member of the True Church. 




CHURCH OF THE PORTIUNCULA. 



I went out to the garden in which bloomed the thornless 
roses. Here St. Francis, by rolling himself among the 
thorns, overcame a vile temptation. Since then the bushes 
are thornless. I saw the room of St. Francis, and an altar 
made from some of its furniture. 

The little Chapel of Portiuncula is over fifteen hundred 
years old. It was transferred to St. Francis to be always 
preserved. It is enriched with many indulgences, and the 



Memories of Assisi. 379 

favors asked for are promised to those who pray within its 
sacred walls. 

Assisi gets its fame from being the birthplace of St. 
Francis. Non-Catholics are being more and more attracted 
to its shrine since some of their authors have presented his 
life and his work and character in very eulogistic writings. 

St. Francis died at Portiuncula on the 4th of October, 
1226. The next morning his body was transferred in great 
pomp to the town of Assisi. The procession stopped at the 
Convent of St. Damien, where St. Clare and her Nuns vener- 
ated the remains. 

From the summit of the hills of Assisi, one of the most 
beautiful views in Italy is presented . Avery luxuriant and 
attractive valley, finely cultivated, extends away as far as 
the eye can see. I left Assisi, its shrines and sacred places 
with reluctance. 

When about to leave the hotel, I called for my bill. On 
looking it over I found that I had been charged for a bottle 
of wine. Pointing to the item I told the proprietor that he 
had made a mistake. " Didn't you have a bottle of wine last 
night?" he asked. "Not to my knowledge," I said. He 
called the clerk and then someone else. The consultation 
resulted in the slow erasure of " le vin." My C. T. A. badge 
was vindicated. 



380 Florence. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

SOME OF THE SHRINES AND ART TREASURES OF FLORENCE — 

ASSOCIATIONS THAT CLUSTER AROUND THE OLD 

CONVENT OF ST. MARK — MEMORIES 

OF SAVONAROLA. 

On Monday afternoon I started for Florence. I passed 
through a number of towns and cities, and arrived there 
about 8 o'clock in the evening. I put up at the Wash- 
ington Hotel. Looking for Father O'Doherty the next morn- 
ing, I again met the " Anglican nun " and her sister. We 
exchanged a few words of greeting. 

I found at Gaze's office that Father O'Doherty had been 
looking for me. We finally met. I asked him how it came 
that he got into such a little, cramped hotel. He said that 
a f ellow" grabbed his valise at the station and he had to follow 
him, so there he was. While the quarters were poor he 
thought it was not worth while to change for the time we 
would stay in Florence. He asked me if the porters had not 
grabbed my baggage. I told him that they did not — because 
I had none — I had left it to be forwarded. 

Mr. John A. Foote, a former merchant on Euclid avenue, 
very well and favorably known in Cleveland, had then 
resided in Florence for two years with his family. Having 
noted my arrival he called at the hotel. Not finding me in 
he left a note requesting me to call on him. Father O'Do- 
herty and I did so. We spent a very pleasant evening with 
him and his family. They were delighted to meet a resident 
of Cleveland, and were especially pleased when they found 
me well acquainted with their friends, Mr. and Mrs. W. 
Cotton and family, of the Forest City. 



The Uffizi Gallery — St. Mark's. 



381 



Father O'Doherty and I visited the churches, picture gal- 
leries, museums and places of interest in the city. I in- 
quired how long it would require to examine the Uffizi 
Gallery. I was told that it would require a month; that I 
might get through it in a week, that I could glance at the 
paintings in two days, but if I was a good walker I might be 




A VIEW OF FLORENCE. 

able to go through it in three hours. I found afterwards 
that this description was not very far astray. 

In the Monastery of St. Mark, confiscated by the robber 
government, are many fine frescoes by Fra Angelico. The 
rightful inmates have been driven out there as in most other 
religious houses. I visited the cells of Savonarola and Fra 
Angelico, the master painter, whose paintings have been 
taken possession of by the iniquitous government. An en- 



382 The Cathedral— Church of the Holy Cross. 

trance fee is charged by the civil officials for all who wish to 
visit the historic building and examine the beautiful frescoes 
painted by Fra Angelico. 

The Cathedral is one of the great churches of the world. 
It is a perfect treasure-house of art. The dome is three 
hundred and fifty-two feet high. The bell tower is perhaps 
the most famous Gothic campanile in the world. It is two 
hundred and ninety-two feet high, and is decorated with deli- 
cate tracery. 

The Baptistry nearby in front of the Cathedral is noted 
for its bronze doors, with ten scenes from the Old Testament 
and twenty-eight from the life of Christ and early Church his- 
tory. The doors were made over four hundred and fifty years 
ago. I think no other work of art in bronze can approach 
them in artistic merit. Michael Angelo said that they were 
worthy of the " Portals of Paradise." It would occupy too 
much space to give the list of the subjects portrayed. 

The Church of the Holy Cross is sometimes referred to as 
the Westminister Abbey of Florence, on account of the 
many tombs of eminent men contained therein. I was shown 
the tombs of Galileo, Michael Angelo and others, and a 
monument to Dante. There are twenty-five altars in the 
church. 

The Chapel of Medici is one of the finest chapels in the 
world. It was built to contain the Sepulchre of Our Lord, 
which it was hoped could be taken from Jerusalem. It cost 
$4,000,000. It is now the Mortuary Chapel of the Medici. 

The Emir Faccardino, Governor of Jerusalem, had agreed 
to have the Holy Sepulchre transplanted to Florence. He 
could not keep his promise. The chapel is certainly very 
rich and very beautiful. A chapter might be written on its 
architectural beauty and its rich and historical monuments. 

Quaint old Ponte Vecchio, an old bridge of 1362, and 
covered with shops, crosses the River Arno. 



The Uffizi Gallery, 



383 




f " ' u pia^' 




THE UFFIZI GALLERY. 



384 An Obstreperous Guide. 

I drove to the old but beautiful Church of St. Miniato. 
This church is surrounded by a large cemetery. It is itself 
a veritable cemetery within, with perpendicular tombstones. 
Existing for nearly nine hundred years it shows the marks 
of cannon shot on its venerable walls. There are five trans- 
parent marble windows behind the altar of this old church. 
A magnificent view of Florence and the surrounding country 
is presented from the fine site and elevated situation of this 
church. 

In the Church of the Holy Cross a guide imposed himself 
on me. I told him that I could get along without him. He 
persisted. In view of some information I got I made him an 
offering as I was about to get into the carriage. I increased 
the offering to avoid a scene. He made the welkin ring for 
more, and showed his license as a guide, and intimated that 
he would call a policeman. Quite a number of people were 
attracted to the spot by the noise he made. Thinking that I 
was again going to increase the offering he held out his open 
hand, upon the palm of which rested the change I had be- 
stowed upon him. I reached out and took the money which 
I had already given him. I put it in my pocket and said: 
" I did not hire you. You were with me ten minutes. I 
gave you more than you earned, even if I had engaged you. 
Now let me look at your license, that I may get your name 
and number. I will see if such imposters are permitted to 
prey on strangers visiting these churches." He would not 
let me see his license. When I persisted he ran away, 
grumbling. I got into the carriage and was driven off, " a 
richer and wiser man." 

After my encounter with the "guide," I drove to the 
Church and Monastery of St. Mark. I had been there before, 
but the place had a special attraction on account of its his- 
torical associations, and as the former home of Father 
•Jerome Savonarola. He was, to my mind, a most remarkable 



Savonarola. 



385 




man. His cell in St. Mark's contains some of his manu- 
scripts, his portrait and also his -bust. I found more visitors 
and sketchers in his cell 
than in any part of the 
building. Non - Catholics 
look upon Savonarola as a 
precursor of Luther, and 
as a martyr to the princi- 
ples of Protestantism. 

Time settles all things. 
The character of Savonar- 
ola is not so black as it 
has been painted by his 
enemies. While he erred, 
his errors were of the head 
rather than of the heart. 
What student of history 
but has been interested in 
his life? Following his 

career, looking into the purity and self-denial of his private 
life, I could not but sympathize with him in his suffering 
and his ignoble death. 

Possibly my readers will be interested in a short sketch 
of this remarkable character from the scenes of his labors, 
and the city in which his execution took place four hundred 
years ago: 

As a child, Savonarola was neither pretty nor playful, but seri- 
otts and subdued. As a youth, impressed with the truths of 
religion, his constant prayer was: " Lord, make known to me the 
path my soul should tread." In 1474 such an impression was 
made upon him bj' a sermon that he resolved to become a monk. 
He was then twenty-two years of age. Wishing to avoid the 
pangs of separation, he left home secretlj-. The next day he 
wrote to his parents, asking their blessing, and declared that the 
gross corruption of the world had driven him into the monastery. 



SAVONAROLA. 



386 His Life in the Dominican Monastery. 

It appears that Savonarola was of middle height, of dark com- 
plexion, of a sanguine, bilious temperament, and of a high-strung 
nervous system. His eyes were dark grey, but very bright, his 
nose aquiline, his lips thick, his mouth large. His rather harsh 
features were lit up by a melancholy smile. 

In the Dominican Monastery he led a life of silent meditation, 
and he became absorbed in spiritual contemplation and deep 
study. His superiors were frequentl}' obliged to curb his zeal and 
to restrain his mortifications. Having been sent to preach near 
his former home, Savonarola declared that the result verified the 
Scripture that no prophet hath honor in his own countr}-. 

In 14S1 Savonarola was sent to St. Mark's, in Florence. He 
rejoiced in the learning and piety of the monks. One of them 
was the celebrated painter, Fra Angelico. The tourist walking 
through the deserted cells admires the exquisite mural paintings 
still on the walls of each room. 

Lorenzo the Magnificent was then at the height of his power, 
and in the midst of his immoralities in Florence. He dominated 
the city and influenced the people by speech and song and exam- 
ple to sinful living. 

I visited the large Church of St. Lorenzo. It is plain 
without and beautiful within. Savonarola's first mission in. 
Florence was to preach the Lenten sermons in this church. 
The precepts of Aristotle and Plato, rather than those of 
the Gospel, engaged the attention of the people. They 
wanted flowers, not food. A large audience greeted the 
preacher. But by the last of the Lenten instructions it 
had dwindled to twenty-five, and most of these were women 
and children. Savonarola had about resolved never again 
to preach, but to remain in the monastery as the instructor 
of the novices. 

I remembered as I walked in the deserted garden, sur- 
rounded by St. Mark's, that it was there under a rose tree 
that Savonarola began his semi-public sermons. Monks^ 
novices and visitors composed his audience, and the Apoca- 
lypse was his theme. 

On Sunday, August i, 14S9, Savonarola lelt himself impelled 



Convent of St. Mark. 



387 




^'^l^v 




IN THE CONVENT OF ST MARK. 



Tempted By Lorenzo. 

to preach in the pulpit of St. Mark's. His sermons were based 
on three propositions: i, the Church will be scourged; 2, it 
will be speedily regenerated ; 3, all this will come to pass quickly. 

Crowds flocked to the church. Florence was stirred. The 
sermons were transferred to the Cathedral that more might have 
an opportunity of hearing. The preacher scourged society and 
terrified the people. Lorenzo, the ruler and dictator, paused in 
astonishment and fear. One day the Friars of St. Mark's ran to 
the cell of Savonarola and cried: " Lorenzo the Magnificent is in 
the garden." Savonarola answered: "If he does not ask forme 
let him go or stay at his pleasure." Lorenzo expected that 
Savonarola would come to pay court to him. Afterwards he sent 
rich presents." 

The next Sunday Savonarola said in the pulpit: " A faithful 
dog does not leave off barking in his master's defense because a 
bone is thrown to him." 

Lorenzo, on his deathbed, sent for Savonarola, whom, while 
he feared, he respected. Savonarola was surprised at the call, but 
he went and declared that amendment of life and restitution were 
the essential conditions of the sacraments. 

After Lorenzo's death, Savonarola became the virtual founder 
of the Florentine Republic; He was the author of the Decinia, the 
single tax, a 10 per cent tax on real property alone, or on all 
income from real property. 

The Jews of Florence lent nione}- at thirty-two and a half per 
cent compound interest. At this rate, one hundred florins in 
fifty years would amount to forty-nine millions, seven hundred 
and ninety-two thousand, five hundred and fifty-six florins. 
Savonarala instituted a Monte de Pieta, which loaned at 5 per 
cent. 

Political and interested enemies arose, it would appear that 
Savonarola had an intimation of the future. In a sermon he ex- 
claimed: " A youth left his home and went forth in a bark to fish, 
and, while fishing, the master of the bark steered far to sea, and 
out of sight of the port; whereupon the youth burst into loud 
lamentations. O Florence! the lamenting youth standeth here in 
the pulpit. * * '" Storms and temptests are gathering before 
mine eyes. " * * O Lord, Lord, where hast Thou led me ? 
-::- ■;:- * prom all sides I behold war and discord coming upon 
me. * "" "■'■ Grant me then this martyrdom and quickly let me 



Ordered to Rome. 389 

die for Thee, as Thou hast died for me. Behold the sharpened 
blade already appears before mine e3'-es." 

The sermon which contained the above must have been 
preached some years before the tragedy on the ptiblic piazza. 

The political party named the Arrabiati contrived to obtain, 
about the end of 1494, a mandate for Savonarola's removal to 
L,ucca. He prepared to depart. In a sermon, he said: "There 
be many in this city who would fain make an end of me, but 
know that my hour hath not yet come. I depart because it be- 
hooveth me to obey orders." 

The authorities of the city, the "Ten," got the decree of re- 
moval revoked that Savonarola might preach the Lenten sermons 
in Florence. Savonarola, who had no human respect, was dis- 
pleased that political influence could either obtain his removal or 
retention . 

Alexander VI., on July 25, 1495, ordered Savonarola to Rome. 
On the ground of ill health, which had for a time prevented him 
from preaching, he obtained a revocation of the mandate. On the 
Sth of September, another order came forbidding him to preach, 
on the ground that he was a disseminator of false doctrines, a pre- 
tended prophet. September 2 he wrote to the Pope: "As to my 
doctrines, I have always been submissive to the Church; as to 
prophecy, I have never absoluteh' declared myself a prophet, al- 
though this would be no heres}^, but I have undoubtedly foretold 
various things of which some have already been fulfilled. * * "-'" 
I am ready, if I should be in error, not only to correct mj'self , but 
to avow it publicly, and make amends before the whole people. 
I submit myself and all my writings to the correction of the 
Holy Roman Church." 

The "Ten of War" obtained permission for Savonarola to 
preach the Lenten sermons in 1496. 

Som e who claim that Savonarola was a Protestant should read 
his sermons even after 1496. " I am prepared to yield obedience 
to the Roman Church, and declare that whosoever obeyeth Her 
not shall be damned. '■^~ * * I declare and confess that the Cath- 
olic Church will surely endure to the Day of Judgment." 

He exercised wonderful influence over the people. Twice the 
" Pj^ramid of Vanities " was burned on the piazza. The pyramid 
was two hundred and forty feet in circumference at the base and 
sixty feet high. It was built of immoral books, pictures, etc. etc. 



390 Disobeys the Pope. 

But Savonarola did disobey the Pope. He claimed the Pope 
had given command, influenced by erroneous information. He 
preached and celebrated Mass. He was then excommunicated. 
Meantime his political enemies obtained office and power. They 
battered down the doors of St. Mark's. Murder was committed. 
A fair-haired j'oung German, Fra Eprico, an adherent of Savon- 
arola, laid about him, exclaiming at each blow: " Salvum fac 
popvilum tuum Domine" (Save thy people, O Lord). Savonar- 
ola, Fra Domenico and Fra Silvestro were arrested by order of the 
Signory. The trial was an outrage. Tortvire most diabolical was 
used. The sentence of death was passed. The three monks pre- 
pared quietly for death. Father Savonarola received permission 
to celebrate Mass, according to Villari, and gave Communion to 
Fra Domenico and Fra Silvestro. 

At the request of his gaoler, Savonarola wrote some words on 
virtuous living. The following extract will show that he was no 
precursor of Luther : " Therefore, perseverance in virtuous liv- 
ing, in good works, in confession, in Communion, in all that 
draweth us nearer to grace, is the true and certain way to procure 
its increase." 

On the 23d of May, 1498, Savonarola and his two companions 
were publicly hanged, and then their bodies were burned on the 
piazza in Florence. 

As I stood on that spot the historial account of that ter- 
rible scene came to my mind. 

In 1868 a monument was erected at Worms to Martin 
Luther. Savonarola was placed upon it, notwithstanding 
the protest of a French Dominican, Father Ronard, who 
wrote a pamphlet defending the orthodoxy of Father Savon- 
arola. 

The streets of Florence are full of life, the shops are 
numerous, and attractive monuments of men of renown and 
spots of absorbing historical interest attract and hold the 
tourist in the beautiful city that nestles in the Valley of the 
Arno. Florence has many drives made attractive by nature 
and art. The city is filled with palaces, churches, museums, 
libraries, gardens and parks. 



No C^ECK System. 391 

On the morning of my departure from Florence, I was 
rather perturbed by the non-arrival of my luggage from 
Rome. It finally came to Gaze's office about ten minutes 
before the leaving time of the train. Not having any check 
system they had enclosed all in a box. To unpack that and 
to get to the station in time required something of an 
American " hustle." I took what I needed in a small bag 
and had the rest shipped to London. 

I met Father O'Doherty at the station. We also met a 
Father Conway of the Archdiocese of Baltimore. He was 
making a European tour. He had been in Rome and was 
then bound for Venice. As Father O'Doherty and I were 
anxious to visit Padua and its celebrated Shrine of St. An- 
thony, we soon had to separate from Father Conway. 



392 Padua. 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

THE WONDER-WORKER OF PADUA — SOME TRADITIONS OF THE 
GREAT SAINT IN THE CITY OF HIS PREDILECTION — 
ST. ANTHONY'S SHRINE — HIS MIRACULOUS 
• • POWER — TAX ON SALT WATER. 

We arrived in the celebrated University City, Padua, quite 
late at night. It was not until the next day that we got a 
good view of the well-known city. It has a population of 
about eighty thousand. We could hardly realize that at one 
time twenty thousand students thronged its halls of learning. 
Galileo occupied a professor's chair in the university. Dante, 
Petrarch, Tasso, Harvey, Chaucer and Goldsmith were num- 
bered among its students. 

The streets were deserted when, early in the morning, we 
made our way to the Shrine of St. Anthony. I was surprised 
at the size and magnificence of the church which encloses 
the Tomb of the Saint. It is three hundred feet long, about 
one hundred and forty feet wide, and more than one hundred 
feet in height, and is crowded with paintings, bronzes and 
monuments. There are many side chapels. The shrine is 
very rich, and the altar most magnificent, and is elevated 
about eight feet from the floor. After waiting some time 
we got the privilege of celebrating Mass at the shrine. A 
large number of people were at Mass, and many of them re- 
ceived Holy Communion. A number of Masses were being 
celebrated, among them the Oriental Rite had a place at one 
of the altars. 

Padua is old and quaint, and for itself and its history, 
and more than all, for its famous shrine, is well worth a 
visit, even by the hurrying tourist. There are a great many 



Church of St. Anthony. 



393 



other large and well-known Catholic Churches in that ancient 
city. 

The devotion to St. Anthony is widespread, and, I am 




church op ST. ANTHONY. 



pleased to note, is still growing. The clients of the " Wonder- 
Worker" will be pleased to learn something more of the 
Saint, and of the place that he selected for the scene of his 
principal labors, and which was consecrated by his sanctified 



394 Saint of the Whole World. 

death. I am glad to be able to write of quaint old Padua, 
celebrated of yore for its university, and celebrated now for 
its shrine. 

" Where are you from? " asked Leo XIII. of Don Locatelli. 

" From Padua, your Holiness." 

"And do you love your Saint?" 

"Love him. Holy Father? Indeed, yes! I was born and 
bred in sight of his tomb, and I bear his name." 

" Not only must you love him, but you must make him 
loved; for, mark me well, St. Anthony is the Saint, not of 
Padua only, but of the whole world." 

When St. Francis of Assisi was about fourteen years of 
a,ge, Anthony was born. Portugal was the birthplace of this. 
" the eldest son of St. Francis." On the 15th of August, 
1195, Anthony was born at Lisbon. At his baptism he 
received the name of Fernando. His mother taught him 
devotion to the Blessed Virgin, and the first hymn the young 
boy sang, and his favorite afterwards, was: "0 Glorisa 
Domina." Devotion to Mary became the keynote of his life. 
The serving of a priest at Mass was the happiest privilege 
that could be conferred upon him. 

Having a divine vocation, Fernando joined the Augus- 
tinians near Lisbon. He had always before him the saying 
of St. Jerome: "It will benefit naught to live in a holy 
place unless one lives there holily." 

Talented and studious, he became well versed in history, 
the Sacred Scriptures, religious controversy and theology. 
Having been ordained priest, he was appointed guest-master 
in 1219. It was then that he first met the members of the 
new order established by St. Francis of Assisi. By per- 
mission, he exchanged the white robe of the Augustinians 
for the habit of the Franciscans, and took the name of 
Anthony. When leaving the Abbey, one of the Fathers said 
to him: " Go thy way; thou wilt surely become a Saint." 



As A Missionary. 395 

He gently replied: "My Brother, when they tell thee 
that I am a Saint, bless thou the Lord." 

He had no hesitation to declare that he, with God's help, 
intended to become a Saint. All of us are called to " go up 
higher," but we fail to realize the call, w to manifest it in 
action. 

The ability and the talent and the learning of Anthony 
were not known. " The occasion makes the man." The 
expected preacher not being present at an ordination of 
priests, Anthony was called upon, and directed to deliver the 
sermon, of which he had no previous intimation. He obeyed, 
and amazed all by his learning and his eloquence. In his 
discourse, he carried his audience to the heights of mystic 
theology. The Bishop, the Dominicans, the P'ranciscans and 
all present were filled with wonder, and could not refrain 
from tears of emotion. They recognized in him an orator 
of the first rank, a master-mind and an apostle. 

Anthony was at once placed on missionary work. He 
was of medium height, dark complexion, of a well-knit 
frame, and had an expression of angelic sweetness. To full 
knowledge and natural eloquence were added divine inspira- 
tion and the gift of miracles. He confounded the heretics 
and brought back thousands to the sincere practice of 
religion. While preaching at Vercelli in Italy the body of a 
young man who had been cut off in the prime of life was 
brought to him amid wailings and lamentations. Anthony 
paused and prayed, and then with hand extended said in a 
tone of authority: "In the name of Christ, young man, 
arise." Imagine the consternation of the people in witness- 
ing a miracle similar to that over the widow's son at Naim. 
No wonder that no church could contain the crowds that 
flocked to hear him. To accommodate the multitude, he was 
obliged to speak in the open air. 

Pen and brush and monument in Padua make manv of the 



396 A Visible Miracle. 

miracles of St. Anthony familiar to the people. Let me 
hastily and briefly relate some of them: 

\ man of rather dissipated habits became enraged at St. 
Anthony for the marks of respect the monk persisted in 
showing him in the -streets of Puy. " What is the meaning 
of all this nonsense?" he asked, in anger, St. Anthony re- 
plied : " I envy you the happiness in store for you. I 
longed to be a Martyr. The Lord did not grant my desire. 
This grace is reserved for you. When fhe blessed hour 
comes be mindful of me." The man laughed. But he remem- 
bered the prediction a few years after, when, on a pilgrimage 
to the Holy Land, he proclaimed Mahomet an impostor. 
The Turks were incensed at his declaration, and he suffered 
martyrdom at their hands. The prophecy of St. Anthony 
was fulfilled in the Martyr's death. 

At Bourges St. Anthony disputed with a Jew named Guil- 
lard. The Jew wanted a visible miracle before he would 
believe in the Real Presence. 

The Jew said: "I will lock up my mule and keep it with- 
out food for three days. Then I will bring it to the public 
square. You declare that the Consecrated Host is the True 
and Real Body of the Man-God. Bring the Host and I will on 
the third day bring a feed of oats. If the mule will refuse 
the oats to prostrate itself before the Remonstrance, I will 
become a Catholic." 

St, x^nthony accepted the challenge of the Jew for 
the love of souls. In the interval he gave himself up to 
fasting and prayer. An immense crowd had assembled as 
St. Anthony appeared on the appointed day, carrying the 
Sacred Host. The Catholics in the procession chanted h\nnns 
in honor of the Blessed Sacrament. St. Anthony, after im- 
posing silence on the multitude, turned to the mule and said: 
"In the name of thy Creator Whom I, though unworthy, 
hold in my hands, I enjoin and command thee, being de- 



St. Anthony. 



397 




ST. ANTHONY OP PADUA. 



prived of reason, to come here instantly and prostrate thy- 
self before thy God, so that by this sign, unbelievers may 
know that all creation is subject to the Lamb Who is im- 
molated on our altars." 

Then the owner offered the oats. The mule, without 



398 The Vision op St. Anthony. 

taking the slightest notice of the food, went immediately 
and bent its knees before the Sacred Host and remained in 
an attitude of adoration. The Jew and many others were 
converted by this miracle. A monument commemorates the 
miracle. 

A poor sinner overcome by grief could not find voice to 
confess his sins. " Go and write down your sins," said the 
Saint, " and bring me the parchment." He returned with a 
long list all stained with tears. As he read out his sins they 
disappeared, one by one, from the page, until nothing was 
left but the spotless paper. 

" My son is dead ; have pity on a mother's tears," was 
the plaintive appeal made to St. Anthony. " Go back, my 
daughter," said the Saint; "God has granted your prayers." 
On her return home she found the boy alive and well. 

St. Anthony scattered miracles as the sower scatters 
seed in the field. 

The most popular representation of St. Anthony is Mu- 
rillo's famous painting: "The Vision of St. Anthony." The 
original is in the Cathedral of Seville. We will briefly relate 
the event upon which the painting is founded. 

One evening St. Anthony sought the hospitality of the 
Lord of Chateauneuf. He prolonged his prayerful virgil far 
into the night. Suddenly he found himself surrounded by a 
supernatural brightness. Jesus, under the form of a little 
child of marvellous beauty and grace, appeared to St. An- 
thony. The bliss of that hour as he pressed his heart against 
that of his Lord and felt its throbbing ! The caresses would 
have excited the jealousy of the angels were they capable 
of envy. The master of the house, attracted by the wonder- 
ful light, looked in and saw the vision. He had to promise 
not to reveal it during St. Anthony's life. From the time of 
that vision St. Anthony sought to show more and more that 
the Sacred Heart of Jesus " is the source of the supernat- 



Preaching to the Fishes. 899 

iiral life, the golden altar whereon burns day and night in- 
cense that rises in clouds of perfume towards heaven and 
embalms the earth." 

St. Anthony journeyed to Rome. While preaching there 
on Easter Sunday, people of" various tongues understood his 
sermon. Here we have the renewal of the miracle of the 
first Pentecost at Jerusalem. 

I saw a representation of St. Anthony preaching to the 
fishes in the Adriatic. When the people had refused to 
listen, St. Anthony, inspired by Almighty God, preached to 
the fishes of the sea. He cried in a loud voice: ''Ye fishes 
of the rivers, ye fishes of the sea, listen unto me. It is to 
you that I have come to announce the Word of God, since 
men have turned away from Him and refuse to listen." The 
people soon crowded to the shore and were converted by the 
miracle. 

St. Anthony began his mission in Padua in 1228. At the 
request of the Bishop, he preached the Lenten course. Many- 
miracles marked his presence. The law courts were closed, 
business was suspended and labor interrupted to listen to St. 
Anthony. His audience ' often numbered thirty thousand. 
The confessionals were besieged and vice disappeared. 

Father John Parenti, the General, and a native of Flor- 
ence, sent St. Anthony to that city to reconcile rival factions. 
He preached during Advent and Lent. In the funeral sermon 
over one of the wealthy and notable men, St. Anthony took 
for his text: "Where thy treasure is, there thy heart is 
also." In the midst of the sermon he suddenly stopped, and 
after a pause, said, slowly and solemnly: "This rich man is 
dead, and his soul is buried in hell. Go open his coffers and 
you will find his heart." It is related that his heart was 
found among the many gold pieces that he had accumulated 
by unjust exactions. 

By choice and by permission St. Anthony chose Padua 



400 "The Restorer of Lost Things." 

for the scene of his labors. He proved its deliverer. St. 
Leo confronted Attila, " the Scourge of God," when he was 
marching on to Rome. St. Anthony went forth to meet the 
armed tyrant Ezzelino, and boldly addressed him: "How 
long, oh, cruel tyrant, will you continue to shed innocent 
blood? The sword of the Lord is suspended over your head, 
and terrible will be His judgment upon you." 

The attendants of Ezzelino, son-in-law of Fredrick II., 
were astounded at the language of the Friar and at the meek 
submission of their general. " It seemed to me," he after- 
wards said, " that the eyes of the monk darted forth ilashes 
of lightning, and that I was on the point of being hurled 
headlong into the abyss of hell." 

St. Anthony is called "The Restorer of Lost Things." 
Many appeal to him for such favors, and often wonderful 
restorations are recounted. St. Anthony himself lost his 
written work, " Commentary on the Psalms." He treasured 
this highly. He was in deep trouble when he found that it 
had been stolen. He had immediate recourse to prayer. 
The thief was suddenly stopped in his flight by a monster on 
the banks of a river. He was commanded on pain of death 
to restore the manuscripts immediately. He hastened back 
and St. Anthony got his treasure. This was the origin of 
the special prerogative of St. Anthony. 

St. Anthony died at Padua on the 13th of June, 1231. 
He was then only in his thirty-seventh year. Crowds of 
children inspired, ran about the streets crying: "The saint 
is dead! St. Anthony is dead!" He appeared at the same 
moment to his friend, the Abbot of Vercelli, and said, with a 
smile: "I have left my baggage at Padua. I am on my way 
home." 

In less than a year St. Anthony was canonized. I do not 
know of any other Saint, of an age so late, who was so 
quickly crowned with the honor of canonization. His mother 



St. Anthony's Bread — The Chapel. 401 

and his sisters were still living. When his mother died, 
there was inscribed on her tomb an epitaph that constitutes 
the highest panegyric: *'Hic jacet mater Sancti xA.nthonii" 
(" Here lies the mother of St. Anthony "). 

Everyone must have heard of St. Anthony's Bread. It had 
its origin in Toulon. A good woman there prayed for a 
special favor to St. Anthony, promising at the same time 
some bread to St. Anthony for his poor. The favor was 
miraculously granted. We sometimes see in churches boxes 
marked " St. Anthony's Bread." The offerings placed on 
these boxes by those who seek favors from the Saint, are 
used to purchase bread for the poor. There is now no more 
popular devotion than that of the nine Tuesdays and the 
thirteen Tuesdays in honor of St. Anthony. 

There is very much to be written of St. Anthony from the 
place of his last labors, of his death and of his shrine. I 
will briefly jot down a few facts that may be of interest: 

The Basilica of St. Anthony is one of the ecclesiastical 
gems of Italy. It is a mixture of Gothic and Byzantine arch- 
itecture. It produces a wonderful effect with its dome, cu- 
polas and elegant campaniles. It is filled with treasures of art. 
The Senate and citizens of Padua, realizing that the body of 
St. Anthony was the greatest treasure they possessed, began 
almost immediately after the Saint's death to erect a church 
and monastery in his honor. 

The Chapel of St. Anthony is separated from the main ^ 
church by a row of slender pillars. There are five lofty 
rounded arches enriched with medallions of the four Evangel- 
ists and marble statues of St. Anthony, St. Justina, St. John 
the Baptist, etc. In the center of the richly decorated 
chapel stands the altar of green marble, enclosing the silver 
sarcophagus of the Saint, approached by seven steps with a 
finely executed marble balustrade. The noble vaulted roof 
is in white and gold, and the walls are enriched with scenes 



402 Should We Believe These Miracles? 

from the life of the Saint, many of which I have related in 
this chapter. There are also in the the chapel marble statues 
of angels and massive silver candelabra weighing over two 
hundred and fifty pounds. I cannot stop to describe the 
treasure-house of the Saint. It contains a dazzling array of 
precious metals, gems and priceless art treasures. There 
are reliquaries, brilliant with diamonds, golden vessels, jew- 
eled chalices, thuribles and other votive ofi^erings of fabulous 
beauty and price. At night the place is guarded by two 
huge mastiffs called the " Dogs of St. Anthony." 

We were loth to leave the blessed Shrine of the Wonder- 
worker, but time pressed and we had to hasten on. 

Sometimes people who read or hear of wonderful inci- 
dents in the lives of the Saints ask: " Must we believe these 
things?" We are not bound to believe them under pain of 
sin. We are only bound to believe articles of faith, the doc- 
trinal teachings of the Church. Yet it is not well to be a 
doubting Thomas. I see nothing unreasonable in God grant- 
ing special favors through the intercession of His favorite 
and sanctified children, for the spread of religion and for 
the conversion, edification and good of immortal souls. 

Simplicity of mind is advantageous to spiritual progress 
and pleasing to Him Who said: "-Unless you become as little 
children you cannot enter the Kingdom of Heaven." 

While we are not bound to believe all the miraculous 
events mentioned in the lives of the Saints we certainly are 
not forbidden, if so inclined, to give them credit. 

In our compartment, on the way from Padua to Venice, 
we had the company of three professors from the Univer- 
sity of Padua. During the journey Father O'Doherty and 
I gave expression to our opinions concerning the tyranny 
and taxation of the Italian Government. The professors__ 
warned us to be careful as " the walls have ears." They in- 
timated that the authorities would not hesitate to arrest and 



A Tax on Salt Water. 403 

imprison persons giving such emphatic condemnation of " the 
powers that be." We told them that we were not accus- 
tomed to hold our tongues in the presence of such rank in- 
justice. We evidently gave expression to the sentiments of 
the professors. " Free and United Italy " terrorizes its peo- 
ple, and taxes them to impoverishment. To take a bucket of 
water from the sea is a penal offence. Why? Because the 
peasant might extract the salt and thus lessen the profits of 
the salt monopoly. Did time permit, I might enter into 
some more details concerning the scope of taxation. 

To the many beggars Father O'Doherty used to say: " Go 
to Humbert; go to the King for assistance. You helped to 
despoil the Holy Father. I don't pity you. You did not 
have to beg when the Pope ruled Rome." 



404 



Venice. 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

VENICE AND MILAN — THE FAMOUS CITY OF ISLANDS AND 

CANALS — ST. mark's — PALACE OF THE DOGES — THE 

CATHEDRAL OF MILAN — THE SHRINE OF ST. 

CHARLES BORROMEO — THE LAKES. 

We arrived in Venice about 8 a. m. All travelers want 
to visit the city built upon the water, whose carriages are 
the picturesque gondolas, and whose streets are the one 
hundred and fifty canals which wind in and out among the 
dwellings and the business places of the one hundred and 
seventy-five thousand inhabitants. 




THE GRAND CANAL. 



St. Mark's Cathedral. 



405 



We hired a gondola for the entire day, and began our 
sightseeing early in the morning. The city is seven miles 
around. The Grand Canal, shaped like the letter S, two 
miles long and from one hundred and fifty to two hundred 
feet wide, divides the city. Many canals, some small and 
some large, run into and from the Grand Canal, and wind in 
and out. The gondolier utters a wa rning cry as he ap 




ST. MARK'S CATHEDRAL AND PIAZZA. 



preaches the intersections or windings. Peculiar humped 
stone bridges to the number of nearly four hundred span 
these canals. 

St. Mark's Cathedral and the Piazza about it is the pic- 
turesque center of Venetian life. This is especially noticeable 
at night, when the bands play and the squares and the cafes 
are crowded by thousands. It is a beautiful sight to see the 
hundreds of gondolas decorated with Chinese lanterns flitting 



406 The Pigeons of St. Mark's. 

hither and thither with their singing, mandolin-playing oc- 
cupants. Our hotel was serenaded by a large number of 
singers, who anchored before the main entrance in a spacious 
and finely decorated and illuminated gondola. 

I had read of the pigeons of Venice, hence I was on the 
watch at 2 p. m. to see the feeding of the doves — a custom 
in vogue in Venice for over seven hundred years. Shortly 
before 2 o'clock the pigeons began winging their flight to 
the Piazza of St. Mark. Soon they occupied the marble 
pavement by thousands. When the two bronze Vulcans 
struck the hour of .2 on the huge bell, the pigeons at once 
flew to the feeding place at the farther end of the piazza. 
The pigeons are very tame. The tourist may get his photo- 
graph taken with them perched on his arms and shoulders 
and feeding at his feet. 

The Cathedral of St. Mark is a richly decorated and mag- 
nificent temple. It was built over nine hundred years ago. 
It is in the form of a Greek Cross. It has five domes and 
hundreds of marble columns. Over the portal are four 
horses of gilded copper. They were originally brought from 
Constantinople. The artistic workmanship is very fine. It 
would require a volume to describe the Cathedral and its 
treasures of mosaics, its altars, its '' Golden Cavern," its 
jewels, its baptistry, its statuary, its vestry, and its chapels. 
One of the best word pictures of the Cathedral is to be found 
in Ruskin's " Stones of Venice." ■ 

Almost in front of the Cathedral is the large Gothic 
campanile, or bell-tower. It is three hundred and twenty- 
two feet high, I climbed up for the magnificent view. I 
was surprised not to be able to, see any canals except the 
Grand Canal. The buildings hide all the others. 

I was much interested in my visit to the Doges' Palace. 
It is about two hundred and fifty by two hundred and thirty 
feet and four stories high. It was built in the year 800. 



The Palace of the Doges. 



407 



The red and white marbles and Oriental designs and Gothic 
arches combine very richly. We ascended the Giant's Stair- 
case, where the Doges were crowned between the colossal 
statues of Mars and Neptune. Then we ascended the Golden 
Staircase and entered the Hall of Great Council, one hundred 
and sixty-five by eighty-four feet. We visited many other 
halls crowded with fine paintings and magnificent frescoes. 




PALACE OF THE DOGES. 



We visited a number of churches. The Gothic Church of 
Santi Giovannia Paolo is the Venetian Westminster. It is 
filled with monuments of Doges, statesmen and warriors and 
valuable old pictures and statues. The floor is lower than 
the pavement outside. This was the cause of a bad fall to 
Father O'Doherty. It might have proved serious, but fortu- 
nately it did not. 

We went to the famous, or infamous, prison, and were 



408 Memories op Venice. 

shown the dark cells in which the prisoners were confined; 
saw the place of execution, and passed over the '* Bridge of 
Sighs/' made famous by the poet Byron. 

" I stood in Venice, on the Bridge of Sighs: 
A palace and a prison on each hand ; 
I saw from out the waves her structure rise 
As from the stroke of the enchanter's wand; 
A thousand years their cloudy wings expand 
Around me, and a dying Glory smiles 
"O'er the far times when many a sunlit land 
lyook'd to the winged Lion's marble piles 
Where Venice sat in State throned on her hundred isles." 

Venice is built on one hundred and seventeen islands. 
The buildings cover these. There are some narrow passage- 
ways between the buildings, but I saw no horses or vehicles 
in Venice. The gondolas serve all the purposes for which 
these are used in other cities. 

At every landing there is someone with a boat-hook to 
hold the gondola and help you ashore. These people expect 
at least a penny for services that appear altogether un- 
necessary. 

Famous palaces line the Grand Canal, but they are not 
very imposing structures. Many homes on Euclid avenue 
architecturally surpass them. We glided under the famous 
Rialto, a bridge of one marble arch, and covered with shops. 
It runs from the fruit market to the fish market. 

After supper Father O'Doherty said: "Let us take a 
walk." I replied: "We would have to take a boat or a 
swim." There are not many places for walks in Venice. 
The only place I saw for an outdoor assemblage is the square 
or piazza in front of the Cathedral. 

We left Venice about 11 p. m. We boarded the gondola 
at the Piazza of St. Mark. We had a very nOvel, pleasing 
ride for about two miles to the railway station. Sometimes 
it appeared to us that collisions were inevitable, but the skill. 



The Bridge of Sighs. 



409 




THE BRIDGE OF SIGHS. 



410 Milan. 

the signals and the mutual understanding between the gon- 
doliers brought us safely to the landing in front of the 
station. 

After an all-night ride, without Pullman car or sleeper, 
we reached Milan, where there had been recent Italian riots. 
Some two hundred had been killed. The city was under 
martial law. It was stated that the uprising was premature. 
Had it been better timed, it was said that many other cities 
would have joined in the uprising. As the people were 
ripe for revolt, the government would have been seriously 
embarrassed in putting down the revolution. 

When I was about to leave Rome, knowing that a procla- 
mation had been issued against anyone carrying fire arms, I 
asked Mr. Croke what would be the penalty in case .1 was 
discovered carrying the revolver that appeared so necessary 
in Constantinople. He consulted a lawyer, and informed me 
that thirty days imprisonment without bail was the lightest 
penalty . 

Not having any time to spare, and not wishing to see the 
inside of an Italian prison, I gave my revolver to Mr. Croke. 
I did not fe3l its loss, as I never before had carried one. 
However, it gave me a certain feeling of security while 
alone in Japan, China, Egypt, Palestine and Turkey. Its ap- 
pearance in the hands of an American in those lands gives 
warning of " danger ahead," and creates a feeling of respect 
for " the man behind the gun." 

Milan has about five hundred thousand inhabitants. It is 
in the center of the rich Lombard Plain. 

We were especially interested in the magnificent Gothic 
Cathedral, and hastened to pay it a visit. The building is 
second in size to St. Peter's. It required over one hundred 
years to construct it. It is cruciform, with several aisles and 
transept aisles separated by fifty-two pillars, each of which 
is twelve feet in diameter, with niches filled by statues. The 



The Magnificent Cathedral. 



411 



i nterior is five hundred by two hundred and fifty feet at the 
transepts, and the height is one hundred and fifty-five feet. 
The statues number at least six thousand. Most of them 
are on the exterior of the Cathedral. The floor is of marble 
mosaic, and the stained glass windows are superb. In the 
church are manv tombs of celebrated men. 






i 



f M» . 







ni'i'l 






THE CATHEDRAL. 

We ascended to the wonderful marble roof. There we 
found ninety-eight Gothic turrets, hundreds of marble pin- 
nacles, and perhaps two thousand life-sized marble statues, 
besides innumerable smaller ones. We were surprised to find 
a little party picnicking on the marble roof. Up and up we 
ascended, until we had climbed four hundred and ninety-four 
steps. We went higher stili, until we were near the base of 
the cross. I will not soon forget the sensation that came 



412 Shrine of St. Charles Borromeo. 

over me as I stood on the narrow platform on that dizzy 
height. Men on the pavements were as pigmies. The 
Apennines and Alps were visible away beyond the Lombard 
Plain. I shudder even now as I think of that dizzy height, 
the narrow platform and the great earth beckoning the man 
on the pinnacle to jump off and sail away in the howling wind. 

When I got dowm a man asked: ''How did you like it 
up there?" 

" Very well, now, since I am on terra firma again," I 
said. 

We went to visit the Shrine of St. Charles Borromeo. It 
is gorgeous. The priest in attendance opened and illumi- 
nated the shrine for us. Here lies the body of Milan's 
saintly Bishop robed in rich pontificals, with jeweled crezier, 
mitre and episcopal ring, the offerings of devout and w^ealthy 
Catholics. I asked the cost of the shrine, and was told, and 
could easily believe, that it amounted to nearly $1,000,000. 

We made arrangements and got permission to celebrate 
Mass there the next morning. Father O'Doherty, who w^as 
suffering from a bad cold, celebrated Mass at 5:30.' I en- 
joyed the same privilege at 6 o'clock. • 

We visited the celebrated Church of St. Ambrose, founded 
in the Fourth Century. There St. Augustine embraced 
Christianity, and there it was that St. Ambrose confronted 
the Emperor Theodosius, and forbade him to enter the 
church until he had done penance. 

In the refectory of the Abbey Church of St. Mary of 
Grace we saw the grand fresco of Leonardo da Vinci, ''The 
Last Supper." It is quite well preserved. A number of 
artists were engaged in copying it. I was much pleased 
with a copy about four by ten feet in size. I asked the 
price. It wa& $1,200. That settled my contemplated pur- 
chase. There, as elsewhere, a fee must be paid the govern- 
ment to enter the monastery. 



Lake Como. 413 

The government everywhere in Italy has confiscated the 
Church property, and gets what income it can from visitors. 
Its presence everywhere, with its hat in its hand, would 
remind you of the hand organ combination. No wonder its 
people are emigrating to other lands. 

After having visited the principal places of interest, 
Father O'Doherty and I left Milan at 7 a. m. We were 
together as far as Como. I had heard and read of the 
beauty of the Lakes of Northern Italy, so I resolved to make 
a trip through them. Father O'Doherty wished to hasten 
on to Paris and thence home to Ireland. So we parted at 
Como, with the promise to meet at Derry, in the Emerald Isle.. 

Como is a city of about twenty thousand. I made direct 
connections with the steamer at Como. Unfortunately, it 
began to rain, but I got a good position in the pilot house, 
and had a line view of the lake and its many islands. The 
lake is thirty-two miles long and from two to three miles 
wide. It is one of the loveliest lakes in the world. Its 
natural charms of mountains and forests are heightened by 
the vineyards, hamlets and villas, and charming summer 
resorts along its shores. The ]ake is eighteen hundred feet 
deep. The steamer took a zigzag course through the lake 
to the different towns on the shores, until we reached 
Menaggio. I got off there, and took the railway over the 
mountains to Porlezza, on Lake Lugano. We rode behind a 
climbing engine. We twisted in and out among the moun- 
tains and over the precipices until we were dizzy. The view 
at times was beautiful, and then grand in the extreme. 

At Porlezza we took the steamer for Lugano. This lake 
is fourteen miles long and three miles wide. It consists of 
deep, sinuous gulfs among the mountains, with Swiss terri- 
tory on one side and Italian on the other. The steamer 
sped along amid very lovely scenery. I was told that the 
climate is of perpetual Spring. 



414 Lugano. 

Lugano is beautifully situated. It has several fine hotels, 
well patronized by the numerous tourists. There were 
quite a number of these wanderers on the steamer. The 
absence of Americans was frequently commented upon, 
but the war was considered a sufficient reason for them to 
stay at home. The hotel people who sympathized with 
Spain, and most of them did, bewailed the lack of the money 
of the open-handed Americans. 

" The world is wide," but sometimes events transpire 
which make it appear small. After I had ascended the 
incline railway to the station at Lugano, I met Father Con- 
way, of the Baltimore Diocese. It will be remembered that 
we had met some days previously at the station in Florence, 
where we parted, not expecting to see each other again in 
Europe. The meeting at the station in Lugano was a mutual 
and glad surprise. On comparing programs we found that 
we could be together through Switzerland. We had dinner, 
and after an hour's wait we got the express train for 
Lucerne. 

The train was the best appointed I had met since I had 
left the United States. It had something of the American 
" go," and something of the American style. The American 
railroads are far ahead of the European. The express was 
crowded, but I found a seat. Father Conway was not so 
fortunate. 

When the conductor came Father Conway said to him: 
"It is strange you would not have a seat for a person with 
a first class ticket." The conductor looked at him very 
earnestly and said: "Was sagen sie?" I took up "die 
sprache" and explained matters. The conductor then got 
Father Conway a seat. Father Conway looked at me in sur- 
prise and asked: "Where in the w^orld did you pick up 
German ? I am glad you know it, anyhow^ for they don't 
understand the plainest English here." 



Switzerland — St. Gotthard Tunnel. 415 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

IN THE LAND OP WILLIAM TELL — SOME OF THE WONDERS 
OF THE SWISS ALPS — THE FAMOUS ALPINE SANCTU- 
ARY OF EINSIEDELN AND THE MIRACLES 
WROUGHT — REMINISCENCES. 

We went to Lucerne via the St. Gotthard Railway, the 
great international highway between the North and South of 
Europe. 

I found a gentleman on the train who was well posted on 
the history of St. Gotthard Tunnel. I think it well to give 
a brief summary of his talk on the celebrated pass. 

Work was begun on the tunnel in J 872. The average 
number of workmen employed was twelve hundred. They 
Avexe all natives of Piedmont, for, strange to say, it was 
found that they were the only men who could endure the 
work in the tunnel. The work was carried on from both 
ends simultaneously. After nearly nine years' work, marked 
by many fatal accidents, the two parties of workingmen 
shook hands in the middle of the tunnel in the winter of 
1880. The level of the tunnel is nearly three-quarters of a 
mile above the level of the sea, or, to be exact, it is three 
thousand eight hundred and forty feet above the sea level. 
The tunnel cost $10,000,000. The St. Gotthard Railway, one 
hundred and fifty-two miles long, cost nearly $35,000,000. 
It has fifty-six tunnels. The traveler is continually passing 
from daylight to darkness, and from darkness to daylight. 

The scenery in many places is truly awe-inspiring. One 
of these places is the Teufelsbreuck, or Devil's Bridge. This 
place is memorable as the scene of a -battle between the 
French, Austrians and Russians in 1799. 



416 Altdorp — Lucerne. 

Near Wassen the railway traverses a beautiful district, 
and displays the greatest triumph of railway engineering in 
Switzerland. After circling twice around Wassen by means 
of spiral tunnels, it crosses the Maienreuss three times by 
bridges at different heights. Looking down we could see 
the railway track we had passed over at three different 
levels. 

We passed through Altdorf, the little town which figures 
prominently in the story of William Tell. There Gessler 
ruled, and there is the place where it is said that the Alpine 
hero pierced the apple on the head of his son. A fine mon- 
ument to Tell has been erected at Altdorf. 

As we approached Lucerne about 7 p. m. on Saturday 
evening, we got a good view of the beautiful Lake of the 
Four Cantons. This is considered the most lovely lake in 
Switzerland. The railway also skirts the fine Lake of Zug. 

Lucerne is situated in the heart of Switzerland, and in 
the midst of very grand scenery. It is estimated that two 
hundred thousand strangers visit the town each year. It is 
well supplied with good hotels. The population is twenty- 
five thousand, and it is one of the strongholds of the Cath- 
olic Faith in Switzerland. It is a well-built and well-kept 
city. 

Lucerne enjoys a magnificent position, and the surround- 
ing scenery is incomparably charming. The town is divided 
by the River Reuss. The stream is spanned by four bridges. 
One is a very handsome stone structure, which must have 
cost about $100,000. There is a very curious old wooden 
bridge wdth a roof. 

The Rigi comprises a group of mountains lying between 
the lakes. The name is usually applied to the north peak. 
It commands a beautiful panorama of more than two hundred 
and fifty miles in circumference. 

Mount Pilatus, or Pilate, is much higher than the Rigi. 



Mount Pilatus. 417 

The summit is seven thousand feet above the sea. The peo- 
ple around about look upon Pilatus as a barometer. They all 
seem to have the following rhyme: 

" Wenn Pilatus hat einen Hut, 
Wird das Wetter recht gut; 
Hat er einen Degen 
So kommit sicher gar bald Regen." 

("If Pilatus wears his hat, serene will be the day. 
If his collar he puts on, then mount the rugged way. 
But if his sword he wields, then keep at home, I say.") 

"The Degen" or "The Sword" has reference to a strip of 
cloud encircling the mountain. A railway now runs to the 
summit of this mountain. The view is exceedingly grand. 

Father Conway and I, after supper, took a walk through 
the streets and along the side of the lake. The promenade 
was crowded with people who appeared to be happy and full 
of enjoyment. A large number at one place were raptur- 
ously listening to the playing of a fine brass band. 

Quite early on Sunday morning, Father Conway and I 
went to seek a place to celebrate Mass. We had been to the 
church the night before, but had not met any of the clergy. 
In the cemetery which surrounds the church we met a priest 
who conducted us to the seminary close by. We found it in 
charge of the Jesuit Fathers. They kindly made the neces- 
sary preparation, and two of the seminarians served our 
Masses. 

After breakfast I proposed to Father Conway that we 
should make a visit to the celebrated Shrine at Einsiedeln. 
That renowned place was not on his program, but he 
gladly agreed to visit the shrine. We went by means of the 
Wadensweil Mountain Railway, and arrived at the Chapel of 
Our Lady of the Hermits "in the Dark Wood" about noon 
on Sunday. 

Einsiedeln is the terminus of the railway. The town's 



418 "The Sanctuary in the Dark Wood." 

population numbers about four thousand five hundred. It 
is a very attractive and finely situated village. Benziger 
Brothers have a large plant in Einsiedeln. 

A brief history of the shrine will no doubt be of interest. 
' The Sanctuary in the Dark Wood " owes its origin to St. 
Meinrad. He was of the noble race of Hohenzollern, and 
was born about 797. He assumed the Benedictine habit at 
the age of twenty-five. While teaching at Zurich he longed 
for the forest clad summit of Etzel, which was visible at the 
opposite side of the lake. Thither by the permission of his 
superiors Meinrad betook himself in 828 to lead a hermit's 
life. Soon people began to flock to his little chapel and 
oratory. After seven years he fled, and withdrew still deeper 
into the " Dark Wood." 

His only possessions were the rule of St. Benedict, a mis- 
sal, a book of homilies, the works of the Monk Cassian and 
the Statue of the Blessed Virgin which had been presented 
to him by the Abbess Hildegarde, a daughter of King Ludwig, 
which statue, under the title of " Our Lady of the Hermits," 
is the object of veneration in the celebrated Chapel of Ein- 
siedeln. 

After he had lived at Einsiedeln for twenty-five years two 
plunder-seeking robbers murdered St. Meinrad in his cell 
January 21, 861. Two tame ravens belonging to the Saint 
pursued the robbers to Zurich, and were the means of their 
capture and execution. 

Out of the cell of St. Meinrad rose the vast Monastery of 
Einsiedeln. The body of the Saint was brought back to his 
cell in 1039. There it is venerated to-day. A large church 
was built enclosing the Chapel of St. Meinard. 

Bishop Conrad of Constantine came in 948 to consecrate 
the holy chapel and church. On the eve of the consecration, 
September 14, the Bishop went to the chapel at midnight to 
pray. He had been there but a short time when suddenly it 



The Miraculous Consecration. 



419 



was filled with a light brighter than that of the sun, and he 
heard the chanting of Psalms by a great multitude. In front 
of the Statue of Our Blessed Lady he beheld Jesus Christ 
standing, assisted by the four Evangelists, offering up the 
Holy Sacrifice. Angels wafted incense, the Apostles, St. 
Peter and St. Paul, 
and Pope Gregory 
bore in their hands 
the Pontifical insig- 
na. St. Stephen and 
St. Laurence assist- 
ed as deacons, while 
a choir of angels 
made the church re- 
sound with their 
celestial songs. St. 
Conrad heard the 
blessing of the 
chapel in the follow- 
ing words: "May 
the blessing of 
Heaven rest upon 
you, and may the 
angels, may God 
Himself make His 
dwelling in you." 

xlstounded the Bishop continued to pray until the morn- 
ing. The monks sought him, and told him that the hour 
for consecration had arrived. He then related what he had 
seen, and refused to dedicate the chapel because it had 
received a divine consecration. 

No one would believe him. The Abbot Eberhard directed 
that the ceremony begin at once. When the procession 
reached the altar a mysterious voice, descending from Heaven, 




THE MIRACULOUS CONSECRATION. 



420 The Holy Chapel. 

was heard by the vast concourse: "Cessa, cessa, f rater; 
capella divinitus consecrata est" ("Cease, cease, brother; 
the chapel has been divinely consecrated "). 

Sixteen years afterward Pope Leo VIII. officially pro- 
nounced an anathema against anyone, who in future, should 
dare to renew the consecration of the Holy Chapel. 

During the past centuries the church, surrounding the 
chapel, has on several occasions been burned to the ground,, 
but the chapel always remained intact. 

I applied to the monastery and one of the fathers kindly 
conducted us through the buildings. He showed us the 
apartments of the monks, the large picture gallery, the fine 
library, etc. The monastery covers a space of ground five 
hundred and sixteen by four hundred and fifty feet. The 
church occupies the central portion. The monastery is 
three stories high. 

Much might be written of the library and of the paint- 
ings. Many of these were presented by the Emperors of 
Prussia, France and Austria, and other monarchs. 

Within the church, and about thirty feet from the front 
door, is the celebrated chapel, a small black marble building. 
Just beyond it, suspended from one of the domes in the 
church, is a magnificent chandelier, twenty-four by twelve 
feet. It was presented by Napoleon in 1865, in honor of a 
visit made to Einsiedeln by his mother. Queen Hortense. 

The church is three hundred and seventy-five by one hun- 
dred and forty-one feet. Much space would be required to 
describe the church and its chapels, the frescoes and the 
paintings. 

The Holy Chapel is twenty-four by eighteen feet and 
seventeen and a half feet high. There is an inscription 
which states that Marcus, Archbishop of Salzburg, faced 
the wooden walls of the chapel with marble. 

Above the altar stands St. Meinrad's Statue of the Blessed 



The Monastery. 



421 



Virgin. It is of wood and very massive. It is richly draped 
in gold cloth. The Child is on the left arm. The hands and 
the faces of both figures are black. The blackness, however, 
is not the natural color of the wood. Golden crowns, set 
with precious stones, are on the heads of the Blessed Virgin 
and Child. 




THE MONASTERY. 



Comparatively few of the many English-speaking tourists 
who visit Switzerland are aware that it has something even 
more attractive to offer than its wonderful Alpine scenery 
and beautiful vales. Yet about one hundred and fifty thou- 
sand pilgrims come every year to " The Shrine in the Dark 
Wood." 

The church was crowded at the time of our visit. The 
people were very devout; many of them were making the 
Stations, and a number were praying audibly. The space 



422 The Benedictines and Church Music. 

about the Holy Chapel was densely crowded, so much so that 
it was difficult to get to the door. 

We waited for Vespers, as we had heard something of 
the exquisite singing for which the church is famed. The 
Benedictines make a specialty of church music. They taboo 
the solo. The singing was indeed fine. At the " Salve 
Regina" the clergy and servers leave the sanctuary, and go 
down to the Holy Chapel, where it is sung. This is a special 
musical feature, and is very solemn and impressive. There 
are two pipe organs. Many people were obliged to stand 
during Vespers. Considering the size of the church you can 
judge of the crowd. 

The average number of confessions heard in that church 
is one hundred and fifty-five thousand annually. 

The village is divided almost equally by a paved street, 
and is situated in a pleasant valley, enclosed by two ranges 
of mountains of moderate height. 

I do not think that the Sanctuary of Einsiedeln is men- 
tioned by the guide-books. Hence the idle traveler hears 
nothing of " The Sanctuary in the Dark Wood." What is 
the tourist's loss is Einsiedeln's gain, for the reason that it 
escapes the unseemly staring, lounging and whispering which 
distract the worshiper at the shrines in Italy and in the 
Holy Land. 

Though there are over one hundred guest-houses and 
hotels in Einsiedeln there are times when the Benedictine 
Fathers have to leave the church open all night to give shel- 
ter to those who can find no other lodgings. 

The Sunday before the college vacation begins the stu- 
dents assemble in the garden below the Abbot's apartments 
and entertain the professors and community with a vocal and 
instrumental concert. The town people are there in large 
numbers. The concluding song is in Latiii and is centuries 
old. Lately the music and words have been printed. 



Some Miracles. 423 

Miracles are being constantly wrought at Einsiedeln. I 
saw a number of offerings made by those so highly favored. 
I give three instances of the miraculous occurrences that 
demonstrate that Einsiedeln is supernaturally blessed: 

A servant at Innspruck by degrees became entirely 
blind. Moved by her entreaties, her friends brought her on 
a pilgrimage to Einsiedeln. There she prayed most earnestly 
to Our Lady of the Hermits. But the conclusion of her 
novena marked no improvement in her case. With deep sor- 
row and disappointment she prepared for her long journey 
home. She went back in her piety to say a farewell prayer 
in the chapel. Her prayer over, she arose. On reaching 
the church door, she exclaimed: "Merciful Heavens! I can 
see! I can see!" Running back she prostrated herself on 
the pavement of the Holy Chapel and remained there for a 
long time, offering up with sobs and tears her thanks to 
God. The beautiful altar of the Sacred Heart in one of the 
side chapels is the thanksgiving offering for this miracle. 

A Sister of Charity was totally blind. She Went to 
Einsiedeln to pray for fortitude to undergo a severe surgi- 
cal operation. When about to receive Holy Communion, the 
pain became intolerable. Just as the priest placed the 
Sacred Host on her tongue, she involuntarily put her hand 
to her eyes. The pain ceased, and the Sister found her sight 
perfectly restored. 

I will relate one more miracle. A young girl who had 
been completely crippled by an accident was brought from 
France. Her hands were as if nailed to her shoulders 
and her limbs were so bent as to be perfectly useless. Emi- 
nent physicians in Paris had pronounced her case hopeless. 
She was wheeled into the church at Einsiedeln just as Mass 
began. At the elevation all were startled by a noise. The 
girl suddenly arose and stood upright in her cart. She 



424 The European Landlord. 

sprang out crying: "I am cured! I am cured!" as she pros- 
trated herself before the Holy Statue. 

The government officials m.ade a formal investigation of 
this case. The people of her own village went out in pro- 
cession to meet her on her return home. The splendid robe 
of gold cloth in which the Statue of Our Lady is vested on 
September 14, was sent to Einsiedeln from the girl's home 
by the grateful people. 

■ Having spent a delightful day in and about Einsiedeln, 
we started back on Sunday evening. The beautiful scenery 
more than repaid us for the trip, to say nothing of the joy, 
the lessons, the knowledge and the gratification received 
from a visit to the " Shrine in the Dark Wood." 

After circling around the mountains and passing over 
some precipices which made us catch our breath, Father 
Conway and I got back from Einseideln to Lucerne. The 
next morning we asked for our hotel bills and prepared to 
depart. I had posted myself somewhat on the habits and 
ways of Continental landlords, and hence was somewhat pre- 
pared to forestall "extras." 

" Make hay while the sun shines " is a proverb which 
European hotel proprietors have well learned and busily 
practice. If the tourist does not like the " bill of fare," he 
will find that the extras ordered will bring considerable grist 
to the mill of the landlord. In America the traveler knows 
the cost when he learns the rate per day charged by the 
hotel. Such is not the case in Europe. The "extras" on 
the bills will often make the tourist wonder if he won't " be 
short " before the end of his journey. 

As the burnt child fears the fire, the traveler of exper- 
ience fears the landlord in tourist lands. It is perhaps a 
little humiliating to inquire about the price of the bed, the 
service, the lights, etc., but it is prudent. Lights and ser- 
vice are frequently extortions of the worst description. It is 



An Incident, 425 

not uncommon to be charged twenty or thirty cents for a 
candle which you may not have burned ten minutes,, and the 
original cost of which was three cents. " Boots," of course, 
must have a tip. The resplendent " portier," who receives 
you on your advent with a low bow, will be near your elbow 
wdien you leave, waiting for his big tip, because his service 
is not included in the bill " for service." There is a good 
deal of protection from this kind of extortion in having 
Gaze's or Cook's hotel coupons, but even then you are not 
entirely safe. 

I was much amused by a scene I witnessed in a prom- 
inent hotel in Rome. A party of about twenty Americans, 
and some of them from Cleveland, were traveling under the 
auspices of the tourist agent, Mr. Clark. On the morning 
of their departure, the porters, the clerks, the bell boys and 
servants lined up on either side of the wide hallway. When 
the Americans appeared, both " help " lines bowed profoundly. 
The first four tourists were for a moment somewhat sur- 
prised at the cordiality of the hotel force. But they 
soon recovered their American manners and returned bow 
for bow, and passed on to their carriages. The other quar- 
tets were received with equal obsequiousness. They also 
returned the salutes with interest, and passed on to their 
carriages, apparently oblivious of the fact that tips were 
expected by the lined-up, bowing force. As the carriages 
drove off and the lines w^ere broken, I was amused by the 
faces of the individuals that had composed the ranks. 

Hotel proprietors will charge high prices, not a bit lower 
than in the United States, and then expect to have the wages 
of their help paid in the way of tips. It is demeaning to the 
servants and an outrage on the traveling public. For the 
sake of the help, as well as for their own, the custom ought 
to be frowned down by the tourists. 

The custom of " tipping " has now a foothold in the 



426 The Tax on Tourists. 

United States. It would be well if those concerned would 
learn that their tips really go to the capitalists, because they 
cut down the usual wages in view of the amount contributed 
in the way of tips. Ask sleeping-car porters and others, and 
the truth of this statement will be verified. I heard of a 
Wagner porter who came to a passenger and said: "You 
owe me twenty cents, sah." "How so?" "That haf 
dollah you gave me, sah, was plugged." 

• In proportion to its size, Switzerland leads the rest of the 
world by far in the number of its hotels or inns. The enter- 
tainment of tourists appears to be the chief business of the 
land of William Tell. The receipts from this source alone 
are estimated at $25,000,000. Think of the amount paid for 
other forms of entertainment by the strangers who go to 
recreate themselves on the "Playgrounds of the World," 
and you may have some idea of the tribute tourists annually 
pay to Switzerland. 

I had paid my bill at Lucerne and walked down the hall 
when I heard Father Conway's voice raised in emphatic pro- 
test. The landlord was also talking loud. I went back. 
Father Conway asked of the proprietor: " What do you mean 
by charging me a shilling (twenty-four cents) for a bit of 
soap used only two or three times? It is an outrage, sir."' 
Custom and justice, the rules of the house, etc., etc., were 
pleaded. Father Conway asked me if I had been charged. 
I told him that I carried my own soap. Before we left I 
said to Father Conway : " That is a new cake of soap. You 
have paid for it two or three times over. Go and get it and 
put it in your bag, or you will be charged for soap in every 
hotel you stop at." Father Conway took my advice. I have 
heard of some tourists who have taken and thrown away the 
candles for which they have been charged at such exorbitant 
rates. "Millions for defense but not one cent for tribute." 

From Lucerne to Basle, a distance of fifty-five miles, we 



Basle — The Black Forest. 427 

passed through some very delightful and much varied scen- 
ery. We drove through Basle city, and visited the very fine 
Cathedral." 

From the terrace in the rear of the Cathedral I got my 
first view of the famous Rhine. In '' Vivian Gray," Lord 
Beaconsfield alludes to the Rhine as follows: "Triumphant 
and imperial river, flushed with the tribute of these vassal 
streams — the Maas, Moselle, Nahe, Main, Neckar, Aar." I 
thought of Longfellow's lines: "Beneath me flows the 
Rhine, and like the Stream of Time, it flows amid the ruins 
of the Past." 

From the terrace we also got a view of the heights of 
the famous Black Forest, away in the distance. 

There was not very much to detain us at Basle, so we 
hastened on through flourishing Mulhausen to Strasburg, 
the well-known capital of Alsace and Lorraine. 



428 Strasburg. 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

ALONG THE STORIED RHINE — A PANORAMIC VIEW OF ITS 

FAMOUS CATHEDRALS AND CASTLES — TOWNS AND 

GLORIOUS VISTAS THAT GREET THE TRAVELER'S 

VISION — IRISH SAINTS IN GERMANY. 

Strasburg is built on a plain, and is one mile from the 
Rhine. One of the earliest events of the war of 1870 be- 
tween Germany and France was the blowing up of the rail- 
way bridge by the Germans at Strasburg. Strasburg is a 
busy city of, I should judge, about one hundred and thirty 
thousand population. 

We arrived in Strasburg on a fete day. The streets were 
thronged with people. Soldiers on and off duty were very 
numerous. They were well uniformed and carried them- 
selves with more of the ideal soldierly bearing than I had 
observed in the other countries through which I passed. 
However, I was struck with the great proportion of young 
men, very young men, among them. The military law of the 
Empire accounted for this condition. As Strasburg is one of 
the cities won back from France, it is strongly guarded and 
fortified to impregnability. 

The grand sights of Strasburg are its red stone Cathedral 
and its wonderful astronomical clock. The lace-like stone 
spire is a marvel of carving, and is one of the highest in 
Europe, rising to a height of four hundred and seventy feet. 
The magnificent organ was pierced by a shell in the bombard- 
ment of 1870, but is now none the worse. It had been in use 
eighty-four years before the shot was fired. In the bombard- 
ment of the seven weeks' siege, the Cathedral was sevei'al 
times set afire. The Prussians appeared to make that a 



Luther and Worms. 429 

special mark. As a result of the conflagration, the roof of 
the Cathedral fell in, but then the fire died out for want of 
fuel. Strange to say, the wonderful clock was not injured. 
Father Conway and I paid quite a long visit to the Cathe- 
dral and were much interested in that magnificent building. 

From Strasburg we went to the City of Worms. That 
city is especially known from the fact that it figured promi- 
nently in the trial of Martin Luther before the Emperor 
Charles V. There is a fine monument erected there to the 
memory of the excommunicated apostle. In the account 
written of Savonarola, it was stated that the statue of that 
monk is unjustly on Luther's monument as a precursor of 
that heretic. 

Some twelve years ago, when I had a controversy with 
some Lutheran ministers in Cleveland, a Protestant physician 
said to me: "I am surprised that the ministers don't defend . 
Luther's moral character against your attacks with more 
confidence and spirit than they do. Why don't they?''' 

" Well, doctor," I said, " I will illustrate the reason of 
their reticence by. a story: A boy came home crying from 
school. His mother asked: 'What is the matter with you?' 
He replied: 'The boys plague me, saying that I have a patch 
on the seat of my breeches.' Indignant, she asked: 'What 
did you say to them?' Between his sobs, the boy replied: 
' What — what could I — I — I say? Didn't I know it — it was 
there?'" 

"x\h! I understand now why the ministers are silent,'^ 
said the doctor, laughing. 

As time goes on and Luther's life becomes better known, 
the task of the defense of his moral character becomes 
harder, if not impossible. 

Worms is a decadent city. Its population has dwindled 
from seventy thousand to less than twelve thousand. 

We arrived, towards evening, in the well-known city of 



430 Mayence. 

Mayence. We took a stroll through the town and paid a visit 
to its famous Cathedral. It is a busy city of about seventy- 
five thousand inhabitants, and is finely situated on the Rhine. 

Early in the morning, while it rained quite briskly, we 
walked through the market. The market truck was spread 
over the sidewalks and nearly half way across the asphalt 
paved street. The hardy and industrious German women 
did not appear to pay much attention to the rain, as they 
either waited for customers or discussed prices with those 
ready to bargain. 

Thorwaldsen's Statue of Guttenberg, the inventor of 
printing, stands near the Cathedral. The house in which he 
was born is not far away. 

St. Boniface, the English Missionary and Apostle of Ger- 
many, was made Archbishop of Mayence in 751 by Pope 
Zacharias. ■ Hence the city has the honor of having been the 
Episcopal See of the Apostle of Germany. 

The Cathedral was founded in 978. Six times it was 
burned and as many times restored. It is a vast structure, 
with domes and towers, one of which is three hundred and 
twenty-four feet high. The interior is very grand, richly 
frescoed and has fifty-six columns upholding the vaulted 
roof. There are scores of fine monuments within the Cathe- 
dral. 

The importance of the Rhine, both as an attraction for 
tourists and as a thoroughfare for freight, is increasing 
year by year. It is rapidly becoming the greatest artery of 
German internal commerce. The fleet upon its waters now 
includes one hundred steamboats, four hundred tugs and six 
thousand barges. The steamboats carry more than a million 
passengers yearly, but I have been unable to obtain the ton- 
nage of the freight traffic. Few persons I'ealize the size of 
the river. It is five hundred and thirty-seven miles from 
Basle to the German Ocean; steamers of twelve feet draft 



Along the Rhine. 



431 



can go as far up as Strasburg; the water is twenty-five 
feet deep at Mayence, at the Loreley Rapids it is seventy-six 
feet deep, and nowhere between Mayence and the sea is it 
less than thirty feet. 

There are now railways on both sides of the Rhine all the 
way from Cologne to Mayence, but the river is said to carry 
as much freight as both of them together. 




NEAR FURSTENBERG. 



There are two cables of heavy steel wire about two 
inches in diameter stretching from Mayence to the mouth of 
the Rhine at Rotterdam. One is worked in a novel manner by 
vessels going up and the other by vessels going down stream. 
The company which laid and maintained the cable owns 
a fleet of tugs, each of which is rigged with a grooved drum 
around which the cable is twice wound. - This drum is made 
to revolve by cog wheels worked by a shaft from a small 



432 A German Officer's Opinion. 

engine so that when the boat picks up the cable it can pull 
itself along as fast as the drum revolves. The tugs usually 
tow a fleet of three or four heavily laden barges, cai-rying 
from one thousand to two thousand tons each, and make a 
speed of four or five miles an hour. It is represented that 
by this process an engine of ten or twelve horse power can 
haul as much freight as an ordinary tug of four or five hun- 
dred horse power, which is a great economy in fuel. 

At 9 o'clock in the morning, we took a steamer at May- 
ence for the tour of the Rhine. We had read and heard so 
much of the trip on the famous river that our expectation 
was keyed up to a high point. There were quite a large 
number of passengers aboard, one of them an American, 
named Woods, from New York. I also got into conversation 
with a German army officer, who spoke English very well. 
Speaking of the war, he thought that Spain stood the best 
chance of victory, for the reason that her soldiers, being- 
better trained as regulars, would have the advantage over 
our volunteers. I should judge that the officer was not over 
twenty-eight years old. He was tall, well-built, and a soldiei- 
" every inch of him." The result of the war showed that he 
was astray in his judgment concerning the result. Like 
many others in Europe, he evidently wished that Spain would 
triumph. 

For about two hours during the trip the scenery was 
rather disappointing. There was nothing very remarkable 
as we looked from the deck of the steamer. We then came 
to Rudesheim, near which are the heights of Johannesberg. 
The hill, three hundred and sixty-two feet over the river, is 
covered with vineyards. 

The Johannesberg wine is famous the world over. The 
estate includes only forty acres, but from the quantity and 
quality of the product of its vines it pays the owner an 
income of from $35,000 to $60,000 a year. It is undoubt- 



BiNGEN ON THE RHINE. 



433 



edly the most prolific and profitable piece of cultivated 
ground on the earth's surface. 

Lord Rothschild sells his vintage to royal customers only, 
and the steward at the Schloss will tell you that so many 
cases are sent annually to Windsor Castle, so many to Pots- 




BINGEN. 



dam, so many to the Elysee in Paris, so many to the Quirinal, 
so many to the Czar of Russia, the Emperor of Austria and 
to other of the crowned heads of Europe. 

At Bingen — we remembered something of speaking at 
school the piece, "Bingen on the Rhine." Here the river 
bends around the Niederwald, on which is the fine new na- 
tional monument. 



434 St. Goar— Coblentz. 

The Nahe joins the Rhine at Bingen, and the scenery 
grows in beauty. 

" The castled crag of Drachenfels 
Forms o'er the wide and winding Rhine, 
Whose breast of water broadl}- swells 
Between the banks which bear the vine, 
And hills all rich with blossom'd trees; 
And fields which promise corn and wine, 
And scatter'd cities crowning these, 
Whose fair white walls along them shine." 

— Byron. 

As we approached the handsome old town of St. Goar, 
we passed the deepest and narrowest, as well as the swiftest, 
current of the Rhine. The precipice, which rises over the 
whirlpools, is four hundred and thirty-three feet high. 

Before reaching Boppard we came to a broad bend in the 
river, w^here rich meadows and green fields came into view 
as the hills receded. 

Passengers who wish to visit the famous Ems, the most 
delightful and most noted of German watering places, have 
to disembark at Oberlahnstein. Ems may be reached in one- 
half hour by rail. We passed the famous Apollinaris Spring. 
It is leased to an English company. About one hundred 
thousand bottles are filled daily. Seven hundred and fifty 
thousand are shipped each month to the United States. 
There is not much local consumption. 

Coblentz is a city of about forty thousand, and is beauti- 
fully situated at the confluence of the Rhine and the Moselle. 
The Castle of Ehrenbreitstein, or the " Broad Stone of Honor," 
is on the opposite side of the river. The strength of the 
fortifications may be known from the fact that it is desig- 
nated the " Gibraltar of the Rhine.'* 

Those who may wish to go to Treves will find it one hun- 
dred and forty miles up the Moselle. In Treves are pre- 
served Christ's Seamless Robe, a Nail from the True Cross and 



Exiles op Erin in Germany. 435 

a Fragment of the Crown of Thorns. The scenery of the Mo- 
selle, I was told, is beautiful, and by some is preferred to that 
of the Rhine. 

Remagen on the Rhine is noted for its beautiful Gothic 
church. Its frescoes are masterpieces of modern German 
art. The best view on the Rhine may be had looking down 
the river from Oberwinter, whence the whole range of the 
" Seven Mountains " may be seen. 

During the trip on the Rhine, an Englishman seated near 
me in the group on deck, asked: "Do you know how this 
river got its name?" Getting no answer, he said, with mock 
gravity: " Because it was discovered by Paddy Ryan." 

After the laugh had subsided, I said: "Perhaps you 
gentlemen are not aware that the annals relating to the 
Rhine prove that the exiles of Erin, centuries ago, acted a 
prominent part in the history of this river and some of its 
towns." No, they had not heard, but they expressed a wish 
to hear. I told them that nations in the darkness of pagan- 
ism had to receive the light of Christianity from without. 
Ireland had so received it from St. Patrick. Germany was 
indebted, like other countries, to foreign missionaries. The 
arly pioneeer missionaries of Germany were Irish and Scotch. 
The first of these was an Irishman, by the name of Fridolin, 
afterwards canonized. He arrived on the banks of the Upper 
Rhine in the year 511. He founded a monastery and also a 
convent, and preached Christianity to the people on both 
sides of the Rhine. 

St. Columbanus, born in Ireland in 543, came to Germany. 
He ascended the Rhine from a point below Mayence, and 
finally established himself on the Lake of Constance. His 
chief assistant was another Irishman, whom we call St. Gall. 
He laid the foundation of the Cathedral Monastery of St. 
Gall, a short distance from the spot where the Rhine falls 



436 Irish Saints in Germany. 

into the Lake of Constance. He died at the age of ninety- 
five, in the year 638. By his labors and preaching he had 
Christianized the entire country of the Alemanni. 

Willibrod, an Anglo-Saxon priest, had studied in Ireland. 
He became Bishop of the Utrecht on the Rhine in 692. St. 
Boniface, the Apostle of Germany, was a disciple of his. If 
St. Boniface was not actually a native of Ireland, it appears 
to be certain that he was of Irish parentage. 

The Englishman asked, rather petulantly: "Where is 
your authority for these statements?" 

" The next city we reach is Bonn," I said. "The 'Bonn 
Periodical on Irish Missionaries in Germany,' and ' Alzog's His- 
tory,' the ' Lives of the Saints,' and the ' Writings of Mon- 
talembert,' and the claims of other authors, are sources you 
may consult to verify my statements." 

An Irishman present said: "More power to you, Father. 
I did not know that we had so much interest in this blessed 
country." Then turning to the Englishman, he said, with 
mock gravity: "You may be right, after all, in saying 
that this fine river was discovered by Paddy Ryan. Wha 
knows ? " 

Bonn is a finely situated city, twenty-one miles from Co- 
logne. It is noted for its university and famous library. 
It can also boast of being the birthplace of Beethoven. In 
ancient times Bonn was a great Roman fortress. Between 
Bonn and Cologne the Rhine is not remarkable. 

Before noon the steward of the steamer went among the 
passengers selling tickets for dinner. Each ticket cost three 
marks, nearly equal to seventy-five cents. The son of the 
Emerald Isle near me thought the price rather high. He 
did not wish to spend that much for a meal, neither did he 
wish to fast until we would reach Cologne in the evening. 
After a time he concluded to take a dinner ticket. As he 



The Rhine Compared With the Hudson. 437 

paid out his three marks, I heard him say ; " God save the 
marks; I can't." 

Mr. Woods and I had a talk about the respective merits 
of the Rhine and the Hudson River. Abstracting a small 
portion of the Rhine and its old castles, we came to the con- 
clusion that the American river, for natural beauty and as a 
body of water, is not inferior to the Rhine. In extent and 
variety of scenery, the Hudson is not behind the famcius 
stream of "Unser Vaterland," and many consider it superior. 
' ' Adieu to thee again ! A vain adieu ! 

There can be no farewell to scenes like thine, 
The mind is color' d by thy every hue ; 

And if reluctantl}' the eyes resign 
Their cherish'd gaze upon thee, lovely Rhine ! 

'Tis with the thankful glance of parting praise ; 
More mighty spots maj' rise — more glaring shine. 

But none unite in one attaching maze 
The brilliant, fair, and soft — the glories of old days." 



438 Cologne. 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

COLOGNE AND BRUSSELS — FAMOUS CATHEDRAL OF COLOGNE 
— ITS MAGNIFICENCE AND WONDERFUL HISTORY — INDUS- 
' TRIAL CONDITIONS IN GERMANY — IN THE BEAUTIFUL 
. BELGIAN CAPITAL — THE WONDERFUL PULPIT. 

Shortly after leaving Bonn the tourists aboard the steamer 
looked for the towering spires of perhaps the grandest 
Gothic structure in the world. It was not so very long 
before it greeted our vision with its towering magnificence 
which grew upon us as we approached nearer to the city in 
which Roman Emperors were crowned and in which Clovis 
was proclaimed King of France. That of Milan is the only 
rival of the Cologne Cathedral. 

Cologne sprang from a Roman colony planted there over 
eighteen hundred years ago. The city now numbers cibout 
three hundred thousand. It presents a fine view to travelers 
approaching it by water. We had long passed the famous 
bridge of boats and were soon at the steamboat landing. 

As soon as possible after reaching the hotel I paid a visit 
to the Cathedral. It is magnificently situated, and is free 
and open from all sides. I walked slowly around it and 
feasted my eyes upon it at all points. Perfect in propor- 
tion, artistic in execution and magnificent in design, it is a 
poem in carved and polished stone. The portals of this 
temple, rich in statuary, cost more than many imposing 
churches. 

The first Cathedral of Cologne having been destroyed by 
fire, the present structure was begun six centuries and a 
half ago. For hundreds of years the work progressed slowly. 
It was then retarded by the outbreak and the disturbance 



The Masterpiece of Gothic Architecture. 439 




■M!l Cl'li i^L^ 




0' 



m 



i' "i'-l'L'. -J III 



THE COLOGNE CATHEDRAL. 



440 The Cologne Cathedral. 

caused by Luther. Early in this century the Germans, im- 
pelled both by religious and national enthusiasm, contributed 
large sums toward the completion of the temple of which the 
whole people are justly proud. 

In 1842, the work was resumed with great eclat. The 
Archbishop presided, and King Frederick William IV. ad- 
dressed the assembled multitude in these words, both mem- 
orable and prophetic: 

" Here where this stone is being laid, guarded and arched b}- 
mighty towers, the finest portals in the world shall rise. Ger- 
many is erecting them, and ma\' they, by the grace of God, be the 
portals through which Germany shall enter upon a new, grand 
and golden time." 

We would hardly think it possible that after such words 
had been uttered by the King, the Kulturkampf legislation 
could have found a place on .the statute books of Germany. 
However, the persecution but brightened and strengthened 
the faith of the people. 

Time passed on and with its march the work on the 
Cathedral was finally completed. Magnificent was the scene 
of its dedication in the year 1880. The Emperor William I., 
surrounded by the Royal Family, by the Sovereign Princes 
and by the nobility and officers of the nation, laid the last 
stone of the noble temple. Its crowning glory are the two 
great towers, the grand portals and the great window 
between them. I could hardly realize as I stood across the 
square and looked up at the twin stone spires, richly orna- 
mented, that they rise to a height of five hundred and 
twenty-five feet. The cut here presented will convey a good 
idea of the magnificence of the Cathedral, Germany's pride. 

The Cathedral is constructed in the form of a cross. It 
is five hundred and ten feet long and two hundred and forty- 
nine feet wide at the transepts and one hundred and fifty 
feet to the top of the nave. The beauty of the stained 



Relics op^ the Three Kings. 441 

glass windows can not be adequately described. Between 
1842 and 1880 the sum of $3,000,000 was spent upon the 
Cathedral. 

The chapel containing the relics of the Three Kings, or 
the Magi, is a gorgeous shrine within the Cathedral. These 
relics were brought by the Empress Helena from Constanti- 
nople to Milan. Frederick Barbossa brought them from 
Milan to Cologne. Judging from the number of people about 
the shrine, the inhabitants of Cologne have great reverence 
for the relics of the Three Kings. 

In the evening I went to the Cathedral to assist at the 
closing devotions of the month of May. There was a large 
number of people present. After Benediction I walked 
through the Cathedral for some time. When the lights had 
been partially extinguished two men went through the church 
giving "warning in a loud voice that the doors were to be 
closed. No curious tourists are permitted to wander through 
the aisles of the Cologne Cathedral during Mass, or -at any 
public service. 

Time settles many accounts and brings about many retri- 
butions. The French Army was in possession of Cologne in 
1795. It made use of the unfinished Cathedral as a hay 
depot, or as a storehouse of supplies. The French, during 
the time of the occupation, stripped the lead from the roof 
of the Cathedral and molded it' into bullets, and they made 
gun metal out of the bronze tombs of its Archbishops. 
Now, from the tov/er of that temple the sweet and solemn 
tones of a thirty-ton bell summon the people to worship. 
The monster bell was cast from French cannons, captured 
during the war of 1870. 

Cologne has many fine churches, and several of them are 
remarkable on account of the relics they contain. I visited . 
a number of them, but will write only of the Church of St. 
Geron and that of St. Ursula. 



442 St. Gerox— Church of St. Ursula. 

St. Geron was an officer in the Theban Legion. This 
brave Roman Legion was composed of Christians. They had 
proven their loyalty and bravery on many a battle-field. 
Ordered by the Emperor, they crossed the Alps. Part of 
the legion, under the command of St. Maurice, went to Lake 
Geneva. For refusing to apostatize, himself and the soldiers 
comprising his command were martyred. The detachment 
under St. Geron reached Cologne. On their refusal to sac- 
rifice to the pagan idols, they were all put to death. These 
Martyrs numbered nearly four hundred. About the middle 
of the Third Century, the Empress St. Helena had their bones 
collected, and caused a church to be built upon the spot to 
commemorate their glorious death. The church is dedicated 
in the naime of St. Geron, the heroic leader of the noble band 
of Christian Martyrs. 

The Church of St. Ursula in Cologne is only about five 
minutesj walk from the Cathedral. I went one afternoon to 
visit this church, in which are enshrined the relics of St. 
Ursula and her eleven thousand companions, all martyred 
centuries ago near Cologne by the barbarous Huns. The 
Virgin and Martyr, St. Ursula, is the Patroness of the Ursu- 
line Order, founded in 1535 by Angela de Medici. The 
saintly foundress died in 1540, having enriched the Church 
and blessed Christianity by establishing the celebrated teach- 
ing order. 

Having had a pleasant talk with the priest in charge of 
the church, I got permission to celebrate Mass in the 
" Golden Chapel," which is the shrine of the relics of the 
army of Virgin Martyrs. Early in the morning of the first 
day of June I availed myself of the privilege. I was glad to 
ofi'er up the Holy Sacrifice at the shrine of their patron 
Saint for all the members of the Ursuline Order, individually 
and collectively, in the Diocese of Cleveland. 

The Golden Chapel is not far from the main portal of 



German Railways. 443 

the church. It is exquisite and very rich in decorations, as 
the name itself indicates. 

In St. Andrew's Church is the tomb of Albertus Magnus, 
the great Dominican, sometimes called "Doctor Universalis." 
After two years he resigned the Bishopric of Rattisbon and 
returned to Cologne. He died there in 1280. 

In the Church of the Minorites is the tomb of Duns 
Scotus. 

Germany has more miles of railway than any other 
country in Europe, her total being twenty-eight thousand 
two hundred and thirty-seven, of which three thousand and 
thirty-two belong to private parties, the remainder to the 
government. There were about one thousand miles then 
under construction, which were opened to traffic during the 
year 1899. Russia has twenty-two thousand miles of road, 
France twenty-five thousand. Great Britain and Ireland 
twenty-one thousand, Austria nineteen thousand, Italy nine 
thousand, Spain seven thousand. The total length of rail- 
ways in Europe is one hundred and fifty-seven thousand one 
hundred and forty miles. But the system is inferior and the 
dispatch of baggage much slower than in the United States. 
Large packages have to be sent by " goods trains,'' and you 
never know when to expect them. In one of his books of 
travel Mark Twain tells of his experience. When he shipped 
a trunk from Hamburg the hair was long, thick, curly and 
youthful. When it arrived in Frankfort he declares that it 
was baldheaded. 

In 1888 nearly all the railways were brought under the 
ownership of the State, which has much improved the ser- 
vice. In many of the stations you can drop your money 
into an automatic box and get your ticket, without having to 
wait in line at the ticket office. The nickle-in-the-slot ma- 
chines are very convenient. 

Germany is practical in its legislation. Much of it has 



444 The Industrial Conditions. 

tended to head off socialism. Laws have been enacted rela- 
tive to the following matters: 

1 . Factory regulations and laws for the protection of labor. 

2. Reduction of hours. 

3. Regulations for the employment of women and children. 

4. Insurance against accidents, sickness and old age. 

5. A protective tariff. 

6. Taxation of incomes instead of idle property. 

7. Colonization and the promotion of the foreign trade. 

8. Government control of railways, telegraph, and all mon- 
opolies and public works. 

Employers in Germany are obliged by law to insure their 
workmen, not only against accident, but against sickness 
and old age. The premiums paid by the employers are fixed 
yearly by the government upon the amount of wages re- 
ceived and upon the degree and character of risk incidental 
to the employment of each person. In case of accident the 
injured person is secured support. In case of death his rel- 
atives or those dependent upon him receive compensation. 
In case of permanent incapacity the injured man receives a 
portion of his ordinary wages for a term of years and the 
cost of medical attendance for thirteen weeks. 

The industrial insurance system applies to about twelve 
million working people in Germany, including laborers, fac- 
tory operatives, mechanics of all descriptions, domestic 
servants, clerks, apprentices in handicrafts and trades, and 
all other employes whose wages do not exceed $500 a year. 
The German law is the most thorough, complete, and effec- 
tive that exists.. 

We left Cologne quite early in the forenoon, bound for 
Brussels, a distance of one hundred and forty-one miles. 
When we arrived at the Belgian frontier we had to submit 
our baggage to the custom examination. Father Conway's 
baggage did not get " 0. k.'d " because it contained an un- 
opened bottle of the famous " Cologne Water." I had forgot- 



Belgium — Brussels. 445 

ten that we had been in the home of the celebrated " Eau de 
Cologne." However, I was amused at Father Conway's pre- 
dicament. The customs' officer said that if he had used 
some of the bottle it would then be no obstacle to the pas- 
sage of the baggage. Father Conway said: "What in the 
world would I use it for? I bought it at the request of my 
niece. You may take it or tax it, whichever you like.'' 

I told Father Conway to pull the cork and sprinkle some 
on the inspector, and then he would pass better and be 
sweeter than that official. Father Conway laughed. 

The inspector turned to me and asked: "Que dites- 
vous?" (" What do you say?") 

"How far is it to Dublin?" I asked. -Of course he did 
not understand that question. 

. In Cologne there are scores of places which are adver- 
tised " as the only store where the real, veritable cologne 
can be had." Many of these places, it appears, do not sell 
the genuine article. 

After a ride of eighty miles we arrived at Leige. That 
" Sheffeld of Belgium" is a city of about one hundred and 
fifty thousand inhabitants. It is noted for its manufacture 
of weapons of all kinds. It is picturesquely situated on the 
River Meuse. 

Eighteen miles from Brussels we passed through Lou- 
vain. That city of some forty thousand inhabitants contains 
the celebrated Catholic University which was founded more 
than four hundred and fifty years ago. Quite a number of 
our American priests studied in that celebrated seat of 
learning. 

Brussels is one of the finest cities in Europe. It has a 
population of about four hundred thousand. It is built 
partly on the slope of a hill. The upper portion of the city 
is the most modern and fashionable. It has many remark- 
able public buildings. The Palace of Justice, finished about 



446 The Cathedral— The Wonderful Pulpit. 

fifteen years ago, cost $10,000,000. The city has tine 
promenades and parks, and is enriched by many galleries of 
celebrated paintings. The streets are full of life, the stores 
and shops are very attractive, and the many tourists we met 
indicated that Brussels is a popular city for those who 
wander far from home. 

We spent much time in the Cathedral of St. Giidule. The 
majestic stone structure is so situated as to be visible from 
most parts of the city. The stained glass windows were, in 
my opinion, the finest I had ever seen. Five of them were 
given by Catholic Princes, and each of the five bears the 
name of the donor. In the nave of the Cathedral are the 
Statues of the Twelve Apostles. But the great artistic 
attraction of the Cathedral is the pulpit. It is of wood, but 
it is the marvel masterpiece of Verbruggan, the celebrated 
carver. It is said to be the finest pulpit in the world. 

The pulpit proper rests upon the Tree of the Knowledge 
of Good and Evil, and upon the Tree of Life Abounding 
With Fruit. The Fall of our First Parents is depicted. The 
shame and sorrow, the anguish and regret in the faces and 
figures of Adam and Eve, as they are driven from Paradise, 
are only equalled by the terrible majesty of the Angel with 
the Flaming Sword. Among the trees and in the Garden are 
represented all kinds of birds and animals in different atti- 
tudes of fear and astonishment. Above the sounding-board 
is a Statue of the Blessed Virgin, the new Eve, with the 
Child Jesus. He carries a cross in His hand, and with it He 
crushes the head of the serpent. 

Brussels has often been selected as the most fitting place 
for International Conferences. In December, 1892, the 
Monetary Conference assembled in that city. This con- 
ference had been called at the request of the United States 
to discuss the question of silver. 

The celebrated battle-field of Waterloo is about twelve 



Waterloo. 447 

miles south of Brussels. I was anxious to see the spot 
where that wonderful military genius, Napoleon, met his 
final defeat, June 18, 1815, by the united armies of England, 
Prussia and the Netherlands. An immense mound, sur- 
mounted by a huge lion, marks the field where was fought 
one of the most important military engagements mentioned 
in history. 

Father Conway and I walked through the quiet streets of 
Brussels early in the morning to the large and finely situated 
railway station, where we took the train for Paris, two hun- 
dred miles distant. 



448 Paris. 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 

THE GAY FRENCH CAPITAL — SOME OP THE GRANDEST MONU- 
MENTS AND SIGHTS OF PARIS — A CITY OF LIFE AND 
BEAUTY — ITS CLEANLINESS — BIRDSEYE VIEW 
OF THE CONTINENTAL METROPOLIS. 

After passing through a number of thriving towns, we 
finally reached that superb and celebrated city, the capital 
of France. 

(3ne night in the little, stuffy room of the hotel was sufii- 
cent. Better rooms were promised if we would remain an- 
other day, but we were bent on changing our quarters. 
After trying five hotels and finding all rooms engaged, I 
thought that we might have to return whence we came. 
Finally we got settled in different hotels, not very far apart. 
It was the season of the great national horse races, and 
hence there were many strangers in town. 

There is no better way to get a good idea ' of the city 
than to ride through it in various directions on the top of an 
omnibus or tram car. These traverse the city in all direc- 
tions, and give to the traveler a good position from which to 
examine the buildings and the streets, and to take a note of 
the moving panorama of Parisian life. Sometimes we got 
into blockades that appeared inextricable, but the efficient 
police soon disentangled them. 

What did I see in Paris? What did I not see? After 
walking and looking, and looking and walking through the 
art galleries, the museums, etc., I appreciated the declara- 
tion of Hawthorne: 

"It is hopeless, and to nie, generallj- a depressing business, to 
go through an immense multifarious show like this, glancing at a 



A Boulevard. 



449 



thousand things, and conscious of some Httle titillation of mind 
from them, but really taking in nothing, and getting no good 
from anything. "" * * It quite crushes a person to see so much 
at once, and I wandered from hall to hall with a weary and heavy 
heart, wishing ( heaven forgive me ) that the Elgin marbles and 
the frieze of the Parthenon were all burned into lime, and that 
the mummies had all turned into dust two thousand years ago; 
and, in line, that all the material relics of successive ages had dis- 
appeared with the generations that produced them." 




BOULEVARD MONTMARTRE. 



I did not agree with the iconoclastic ideas of Hawthorne. 
If a tourist be in that condition of mind, he had better rest 
or depart for home, because there is no compulsion in the 
matter of sight-seeing. My only regret was that fleeting 
'time did not permit more leisure to examine and enjoy the 
many treasures stored in the museums and art galleries. 

We spent nearly a week in the capital of France, and we 
could have spent much more time in that remarkable city 
without seeing all its treasures or visiting all the places of 



450 The Clean Streets of Paris. 

historic interest within its limits. We found throngs of 
people everywhere. As many apparently were as bent on 
pleasure as on business, and the visitors from other lands 
were as numerous about the hotels as the natives of the 
country. 

Paris is a city of nearly three million people. It is 
bounded by a line of ramparts over twenty-two miles in 
length. The streets are all well paved and very well lighted. 
In the small and old streets the sidewalks are rather narrow^ 
but on the boulevards they are very wide, and in all cases 
they are smooth and clean. The thoroughfares are well 
sprinkled and cleaned daily, and the gutters are washed out 
once or twice in the twenty-four hours. Some prominent 
Americans were remembered in the naming of the streets, 
and among them we observed those of Washington, Lincoln, 
Franklin and Fulton. From the famous Church of the Mad- 
eleine to the Bastile, or to where the Bastile formerly stood, 
the line of boulevards extends three miles, and forms the 
busiest and most fashionable thoroughfare in the world. 

There are many beautiful and well-kept gardens and 
parks. The Champ de Mars, which was formerly used for 
military manoeuvering, is now a public garden. It is sur- 
rounded by the principal buildings of the Exhibition of 1889, 
and in the center of it is the celebrated Eiffel Tower. We 
noticed that the work was being pushed on additional build- 
ings for the Exposition of J 900. -Judging from what we 
saw, the buildings themselves, when completed, will be worth 
a visit. Visitors to Paris in 1900 will not be obliged to go 
out into the country to visit the Exposition, as the grounds 
are within the city limits. The French realize that the 
" White City " of the Columbian Exposition at Chicago gave 
them '' a mark" hard to beat. 

The two largest parks are the Bois de Boulogne and the 
oois de Vincennes. Each contains over two thousand acre-s. 



Highwaymen in the Parks. 



451 



We drove through the Bois de Boulogne. The park is 
charming. The meandering roads are diversilied by sweeps 
of emerald meadow, long forest glades, mounds of flowers 
and shrubs, and the most beautiful lakes, with troops of 
stately swans. It is a most attractive resort for the inhab- 
itants of the city and pleasure-seeking tourists. However, 
of late highwaymen have waylaid several visitor? in the 




PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. 



robbers quickly escaped into the bushes and 
the dusk of the evening they stretch small ropes 
bicycle paths and rob the bruised and fallen vic- 

police were then on the alert. That " force," 
" the finest " in the world, doubtless, soon caught 

who had found the park a good place to obtain. 



park. The 
woods. In 
across the 
tims. The 
considered 
the robbers, 
much booty. 

Paris is rich in monuments. The streets and parks con- 



452 The Place de la Conx'orde. 

tain many monuments and groups of statuary by noted 
sculptors. The most remarkable monument is the "Arc de 
Triomphe" in the Place de I'Etoile. It was begun by Napoleon 
I., and completed by Louis Philippe. We approached it by 
the magnificent avenue of the Champs Elysee. Such an 
avenue, for a mile at least, is not to be found elsewhere in 
the world. We entered it from the Place de la Concorde, 
a wide open space near the garden of the Tuileries. In this 
place, -the " Place de la Concorde," the guillotine did its 
bloody work during the dark days of the Revolution. I 
thought that the name it now bears, " Place de la Concorde," 
must have been bestowed by the irony of fate. From this 
square we entered the famous avenue. It has a gentle 
ascent to the Arch of Triumph, a mile and a half away. 
The trees, shrubs, and flowers along the borders of the triple 
causeway give to it, for most of the way, the character of an 
exquisite drive through a park. 

The Arch of Triumph cost $2,000,000. It is one hundred 
and sixty feet high, one hundred and forty-six feet wide and 
seventy-two feet deep. On the sides are groups repre- 
senting the campaigns of Napoleon. The names of nearly 
one hundred and fifty battles appear on the arch. 

I ascended the two hundred and sixty steps of the 
spiral staircase to the top of the arch. The labor was 
richly rewarded by the magnificent view. Twelve grand 
avenues approach the Arch of Triumph, as the spokes in a 
wheel approach the hub. I had never before seen such ■ a 
panorama of life radiating in all directions. From the Arch 
of Triumph a person can get a good view of the city, and 
may go direct to any part of Paris, as the omnibusses and 
tram-cars and some steam suburban cars start on their trips 
from the immediate vicinity. 

My hotel was near the Place de la Concorde. This square 
is the central point of all that is grandest and most beau- 



The Arch of Triumph. 



453 



tifiil in Paris. There is the monolithic Obelisk of Luxon, 
with an elegant fountain on each side, and at regular spaces 
are the eight colossal statues and groups, representing as 
many important French cities. This square was formerly 
called the Place de la Revolution. King Louis XVL, Marie 
Antoinette, Charlotte Corday and three thousand others were 




THE ARC DE TRIOMPHE. 



here executed in the days when Paris was steeped in blood — 
the blood of the best of her citizens, executed in a little less 
than sixteen months, from January 21, 1793, to May 3, 
1795. The Germans bivouacked there in 1871. 

Paris is rich in magnificent palaces. The origin of the 
Louvre goes back almost to the beginning of the French 
Monarchy. It was formerly a strong fortress. It was 



454 Hotel des Invalides— Tomb of Napoleon. 

finally converted into a grand picture gallery and museum, 
and as such has a world-wide reputation. There are thous- 
ands of original paintings and statues of untold value. 

After we had spent hours in the Louvre, and our eyes 
were filled with seeing and our feet were tired with walking, 
I asked Father Conway which pleased him the more — the 
paintings or the statuary? He said that it was hard to tell. 
" Well," I said, " you have more hesitation than the old 
farmer had.'' "How so?" he asked. "When the question 
was put to him, he drawled out: 'I guess I like the statuary 
best.' 'Why?" 'Well, you can only stand off and look at a 
painting, but you can walk all around a statue.' " 

I visited the " Palais des Luxembourg." It was built 
over tv/o hundred and seventy-five years ago. It was once a 
royal habitation. During the Revolution it was turned into 
a prison, and was also the headquarters of the Directory. It 
is now the meeting place of the Senate of the Republic. It 
stands within a beautiful park, and is the home of a large 
number of fine paintings and exquisite statues. The brave 
Marshal Ney was shot in the garden where his statue now 
stands. 

The Hotel des Invalides is south of the Seine. Louis 
XIV. founded it in 1670 for the veterans of the army. It 
was intended to accommodate five thousand old soldiers. 
We entered the church hung with the old stained and tat- 
tered battle-flags that had waved on a thousand fields. The 
dome of the Church of the Invalides, gilded in the time of 
Napoleon I., can be seen from a long distance. 

The tomb of Napoleon I. is under the dome in the rear 
of the Church of the Invalides. The monumental tombs of 
Grant and Garfield are insignificant when compared to that 
of Napoleon Bonaparte. It is of red granite and massive, 
yet tasty, with no excess of ornament. Part is sunk, perhaps 
twelve feet beneath the floor of the church, in a circular 



The Paris Opera House. 455 

space with mosaic floor, and contains the names of the prin- 
cipal battles of him whose memory is fittingly preserved in 
this superb sarcophagus. 

The tombs and monuments of some of Napoleon's chief 
generals are grouped about his own. Nearby I was also 
shown the last resting place of Marshal McMahon, the first 
President of the present Republic. 



the opera house. 

The Opera House is the grandest and the largest theatre 
m the world. When I say it is the largest, I refer not to its 
seating capacity, but to the space of ground it covers. It 
occupies nearly three acres, but seats only between twenty- 
one hundred and twenty-two hundred people. I v*^ent there 
one night to see the building, and remained for about an 
hour. It is exceedingly rich in statutary. The grand stair- 
case of white marble, with balustrade of red antique marble, 
and hand rails of Algerian onyx, is the finest in the world. 
The cost of this magnificent building was thirty million 
francs, or about $6,000,000. 



456 A Destitute Artist. 

When I went in I noticed an officer on horseback at the 
curb stone, over one hundred feet away from the main en- 
trance. Himself and his horse, motionless, faced the main 
portal. When I returned the officer was still seated, sphinx 
and statue like, on the horse. Other armed sentinels were 
within and without the main entrance. I did not know 
whether these guards were usually there, or if the occasion 
was a special one. 

Though a stranger in Paris, and alone that night, I 
thought I would try to get to my hotel by a short cut. On 
my way I was accosted by a man, who said: ''I believe you 
are an English clergyman." 

I asked him what he wanted of me, and he answered: 
".Will you save the life of a poor man?" 

"Where is the man whose life needs to be saved?" I 
asked. 

" I am the man," he answered, "I came here to do some 
painting, some portrait work, for a man who had engaged 
me. I arrived here yesterday, but he had just committed 
suicide. He had some trouble and then did that terrible 
deed. I have had nothing to eat all day, and have no place 
to stay, and am entirely destitute." 

I told him I was from America, and was on my way 
back on a journey around the world. 

"Oh, take me with you," he pleaded; "I will paint for 
you and do many other things for you." I told him that I 
would be hard enough pressed for means to take myself 
home. 

I walked through a number of side streets seeking a 
short cut to the hotel. Though a stranger in the city I got 
my bearings quite well, considering that it was night time. 
I met a number of queer characters on my way, but the walk 
added to my knowledge of Parisian life under the gaslight. 

Two or three afternoons I went into the Garden of the 



In the Garden op the Tuileries. 



457 



Tuileries to read my Breviary. Tiiis park extends from the 
palace to the Place de la Concorde, and runs by a number of 
the large hotels, and is bounded by the Rue de Rivoli and the 
Seine. 

I wondered why so few occupied the seats scattered 
about. I took a chair and began my office, and while I was 
engaged in reading an old woman 
came up and tore off a ticket from 
a book of them. She handed me 
the ticket, but I shook my head. 
She insisted on my taking the 
ticket, and I persisted in mjr re- 
fusal. She talked French and ges- 
ticulated "to beat an orchestra 
leader." 1 thought if all ticket- 
sellers were as energetic as that 
old French woman, concerts, lec- 
tures and fairs would be largely 
attended. However, I made up my 
mind that I was not going to buy 
a ticket for a French play or con- 
cert. The old lady was in agony, 
and took hold of my chair. I 
pointed to another a distance, off, 
and told her to take that. She 
sighed and then held the ticket be- 
fore my eyes, pleading for me to 

look at it. I then read that for chairs in the park ten cen- 
times were charged. All was explained. The old lady was 
the official in charge of the chairs. I smiled and paid my 
two cents, and she went off to catch her breath. 

After a time I was disturbed by a hissing sound. I 
looked up and saw standing near me, but looking away in 
another direction, a dirty, ragged, unshaven and unkempt 




A PARISIAN BEGGAR. 



458 The Zoological Gardens. 

individual. Still looking away from me he showed his old 
tattered and torn shoes, and plainly indicated that he wanted 
help. He went on hissing his petition without moving his 
lips or changing his position. He was the image of char- 
acters often described by Victor Hugo. I soon understood 
that he acted as he did so as not to attract the attention of 
the police. When I gave him a coin he went shuffling off in 
the direction of the Seine. 

I went to visit the Zoological Gardens. They are very 
extensive, and prove a great attraction. On one part of the 
grounds I found a crowd assembled about an immense bal- 
loon. It carried about twenty people in the basket. When 
the complement of passengers was complete, up went the 
balloon. It was attached to a rope about one-fifth of a mile 
in length. After reaching this height, the people had a 
magnificent view of the city and the surrounding country. 
After a wait of about fifteen minutes, the balloon was hauled 
back by means of a steam engine. I, too, wished to go up 
in the balloon. But when I applied, it had its full quota of 
passengers, and as I did not wish to wait for the second 
trip, I had not the experience gleaned by being ''up in a 
balloon." 

After I had left the enclosure and was walking about, I 
met a portly gentleman wdth some ladies. He approached 
me, and asked in French where he could find the opening, or 
the gate, entering the enclosure about the balloon. He 
stumbled in his French. I said to him that I preferred to 
speak in English. Spontaneously, he blurted out: "By 
hockey, so do I. I am not too well up in the language of 
these blasted foreigners." " Well," I said, " don't you think 
that in this case we are the foreigners?" "Ah, yes," he 
said, " that is a fact. I never was a foreigner before." 



Famous Temples of Paris. 



459 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

FAMOUS TEMPLES OF PAPJS — THE MAJESTIC CATHEDRAL OP 
NOTRE DAME — THE MADELEINE — THE GREAT BASILICA 
OF THE SACRED HEART, MONTMARTRE — 3T. GENE- 
VIEVE — VERSAILLES AND ITS MEMORIES. 

All things human have a beginning. Paris had its origin 
•on the Isle de la Cite. On this small island, reached by 
magnificent bridges, stands the famous Cathedral of Notre 
Dame. Orators of world renown have spoken to the multi- 





CATHEDRAL OF NOTRE DAME. 



460 The Cathedral of Notre Damf. 

tude from its pulpit. Having a history spanning seven 
hundred years, the story of Notre Dame is varied and 
national. Of course, I cannot pretend to go into details 
connected with the magnificent building — a production of 
wonderful architectural genius. It is one of the glories of 
France. I walked through its aisles, visited its chapels, its 
monuments, and knelt at its altars. It is a very large 
building and in a very fine location. On inquiry, I found 
that it is four hundred and seventeen feet long, one hundred 
and fifty-six feet wide and one hundred and ten feet to the 
apex of the ceiling. The three portals are very fine, with 
their rich Gothic sculptures and crowds of exquisite statues. 

How blinded and diabolical men become when the \actiras 
of unrestrained passion! In the days of the Revolution, over 
one hundred years ago, a decree was passed devoting that- 
venerable Cathedral to destruction. Fortunately, the Direc- 
tory was influenced to rescind the order. But the relics and 
paintings were carried away, and its statuary destroyed. 
The church was turned into a "Temple of Reason," and high 
upon the main altar a danseuse from the opera was wor- 
shiped by the mad people as a goddess. Soon after this act 
of sacrilege, the guillotine claimed for its victims Herbert, 
Danton and Robespierre, the leaders of the Revolution. 

Napoleon Bonaparte was crowned Emperor by Pius VII., 
in the Cathedral of Notre Dame. The Pope who crowned 
the Emperor anathematized him five years later. 

Twenty-seven years ago, the Cathedral of Notre Dame 
was again desecrated — this time by the Communists. Com- 
pelled to retreat from it, they set it on fire, but the fire did 
not do very serious damage. During the modern " Reign of 
Terror," the Archbishop of Paris, Mgr. Darboy, was shot by 
the Communists. The robe he wore, pierced with bullets, is 
preserved in the Cathedral. 

Trinitv Sundav I celebrated j\Iass in the Cathedral " of 



The Palais de Justice. 



461 



Notre Dame at about 9 o'clock. While I was there Solemn 
High Mass was celebrated and a sermon was preached. 
There were not so many people present as I had expected, 
but possibly the crowd attended a later Mass. 

On the same island is the Palais de Justice, a very large 
and very fine structure. Marie Antoinette and many other 








THE MADELEINE. 



victims of the Revolution were imprisoned there. I walked 
with interest through the magnificent corridors of the Tem- 
ple of Justice. Justice does not always dwell in the temple, 
though law may. 

The "Sainte Chapelle" is nearby. Here St. Louis loved 
to pray and meditate while he visited the Blessed Sacrament. 
The chapel is considered a masterpiece of Gothic architec- 



462 The Madeleine. 

ture, and one of the most beautiful ecclesiastical structures 
in the world. It adjoins the Palace of Justice. 

The Madeleine is another historical church of Paris. I 
made several visits to this edifice which Napoleon I. had 
ordered to be finished as a Temple of Glory in memory of his 
victorious army. But before his project could be carried 
out, the Battle of Waterloo made him an exile. The build- 
ing stands upon a raised platform three hundred and twenty- 
eight by one hundred and thirt3^-eight feet. The style is 
Greek. A colonnade of sixty Corinthian columns, each fifty 
feet high, extends entirely around the. outside of the church. 
There are no windows, the interior being lighted from the 
roof. Thirty-four statues of Saints and Prophets stand in. 
niches on the outer wall under the colonnade. The Made- 
leine stands in one of the most prominent centers of Paris, 
and is a landmark for the stranger within the gates. A 
flower market is held around about the church on two days 
in the week. The Madeleine appears to be the most fre- 
quented of all the churches in Paris. It cost $2,500,000. 

Immediately opposite the Louvre is the ancient Church 
of St. Germain L'Auxerrois. From its pulpit the celebrated 
orators, Bourdaloue and Massillon, preached to the Court of 
Le Grand Monarque. The morning I visited this church 
quite a crowd had assembled, of course with piety and devo- 
tion, to assist at a marriage. The bridal party had not 
arrived. 

It was from the bell tower of this church that the emis- 
sary of the King gave the signal for 'the massacre of the 
Huguenot conspirators on the Feast of St. Bartholomew, in 
1572. Protestants always try to connect the Catholic 
Church with this political slaughter, but the facts of history 
show that neither the Pope nor the Church had anything to 
do with the crime. 

During the last Mass on Sunday, I visited the Church of 



The Pantheon. 



463 




THE PANTHEON. 

St. Sulpice. It stands in an aristocratic portion of Paris. 
It is famous from the fact that the sainted parish priest, M. 
Olier, here founded the Community of St. Sulpice for the 
training of young men for the priesthood. 

A double row of Doric columns, forty feet high, form a 



464 St. Genevieve's — Church of the Sacred Heart. 

magnificent portico. There are two great towers. The vast 
and well-proportioned interior is striking. It is lined with 
twenty-two richly decorated chapels. 

A watch service is held in St. Sulpice on the eve of every 
New Year. The church in the time of the French Revolu- 
tion was turned into a Temple of Victory. When Napoleon 
returned from his victorious campaign in Egypt, a great 
banquet was given to him within the w^alls of St. Sulpice. 

About three-quarters of a mile from St. Sulpice's is one 
of the highest elevations in Paris. Upon that spot St. Gene- 
vieve, the Patron Saint of Paris, died in 511. A magnificent 
church was erected in 1764 in honor of St. Genevieve, the 
" Shepherd Girl of Nanterre." 

The Convention changed the name to "The Pantheon." 
However, the Catholics regained possession of it in 1851. 
But it does not appear to be used for divine service at the 
present time. It has a magnificent dome, fine paintings and 
many marble monuments.' 

I took a long walk one day to the Church of the Sacred 
Heart on the heights of Montmartre. It is a large and con- 
spicuous basilica in Byzantine style. The church was not then 
finished. I understood that it would cost $5,000,000. This 
is the highest point in Paris. I got my best view of the city 
the evening I stood before the Church of the Sacred Heart. 

The Church of St. Vincent de Paul is a very fine struc- 
ture. An entire chapter might be written about the edifice. 
I paid it a visit on my way to Montmartre. 

Before returning I went to a restaurant to have dinner. 
The questions and the mannerisms of the waiters reminded 
me of this story related of a Mr. Hyde, of Chicago, when 
he went to a French restaurant: " Waiter, I want a dinner." 
" Will ze gentleman haf table d'hote or a la carte," asked 
the waiter. " Bring me a little of both, and have them put 
plenty of gravy on it," answered Mr. Hyde. 



Cemetery of Pere-la-Chaise— Versailles. 465 

One afternoon Father Conway and I paid a visit to the 
Cemetery of Pere-la-Chaise. The Communists made their 
last stand on the hill in this cemetery. From it they bom- 
barded Paris. The remains of many notable persons are 
buried in that cemetery. Among the tombs are those of the 
composers, Bellini, Cherubini, Rossini and Chopin. It is 
also the burial place of Abelard, Racine, Thiers, Marshal Ney 




PALACE AND GARDENS AT VERSAILLES. 



and others. There are a great many small chapels covering 
tombs. The graves are crowded close together. Many of 
cemeteries in America surpass it in beauty. 

We made a trip from Paris to Versailles. " There are 
many fine cities in the world, but only one Versailles." We 
passed the forest and the town of St. Cloud, the private 
residence of the first Napoleon. We were carried through a 
number of tunnels. 

Versailles is two hundred feet higher than Paris. We 
found the palace a most spacious royal abode. Seven wide 



466 The Fouxtaixs at Versailles. 

avenues approach it. The rough paved court is of great 
extent. Around it the palace forms three sides of a hollow 
square. About the court are statues of distinguished men. 
In this court assembled the fierce mob that had marched 
from Paris. Before it stood Marie Antoinette and her 
children seeking to appease the anger of the blood-thirsty 
multitude. 

We walked through the stately forests and the royal 
gardens. I will not attempt to give a picture of them. The 
surroundings fully approach my ideal of a royal abode — even 
of one so exquisite as " Le Grand Monarque," Louis XIV. 

The stately fountains that now play but once a month 
since the palace is no longer the abode of royalty, were 
fortunately disporting themselves in all their magnificence 
on the day of our visit. The mere announcement that the 
Fountains at Versailles are to play suffices to bring thous- 
and of visitors from Paris, a distance of some ten miles. 
Each time the fountains play the cost is about "$2,000. 

The spacious and stately palace is now one of the finest 
picture galleries in Europe. The pictures relate, in most 
cases, to persons, places and battles of absorbing historical 
renown. Hours are required to give them but a passing 
glance. 

We got back to Paris in the dusk of the evening, fatigued 
in seeking to crowd into one day the many attractions of 
Versailles. 

As we approached the city, my companion and I ex- 
changed notes and comments on what we saw. I asked him 
if he knew that the Empress Eugenie had had a narrow escape 
from being the victim of a tragedy similar to that which 
deprived the unfortunate Queen Marie Antoinette, of her 
life. He wished to know the particulars, so I related the 
facts : 

After the disastrous battle of Sedan made Napoleon HI. 



Dr. Evans and the Empress. 



467 



virtually a prisoner of war, the excited populace rushed to 
the palace. The Empress fled secretly from the Tuileries. At 
7 in the evening, accompanied by one lady, she left the palace 
by a side door. They took a cab and drove up the Champs 
Elysee for a mile or more. They then dismissed the cab, 
walked a square or two and hired another cab. Then they 
drove, not to the abode of an influential Frenchman, but to 




PICTURE GALLERY, VERSAILLES. 



the home of an American, that of the celebrated dentist. Dr. 
Evans, formerly of Philadelphia. The doctor was entertaining 
some friends at dinner, and sent a servant to inform the 
strange ladies that he could not see them then. The Em- 
press, who had not revealed her identity, would not be put off'. 
She walked by the servant into the private office. Dr. Evans 
then went to see the intruder. Imagine his surprise when 
he beheld the Empress, and heard her exclaim: "Doctor, 
you must save me!" 



Sunday in Paris. 

When the doctor realized the situation, he acted promptly. 
Placing the ladies in a retired room, he dismissed his friends 
as soon as possible. 

Accompanied by a friend at 2 o'clock in the morning, he 
took the Empress and her companion in his private carriage, 
and drove towards the gates of the city. The streets, even 
at that hour, were thronged with an excited multitude. But 
no attention was paid to the private carriage making its 
way slowly through the crowd. But a guard, representing 
the Republic, was at the city gate. He demanded to know 
the identity of the occupants of the carriage. The doctor 
gave his own name and profession, and handing something 
to the guard, with the remark that great events were on the 
tapis in Paris, the carriage was allowed to pass. 

They finally arrived at the sea coast. They procured a 
private yacht from an Englishman. After a fearful passage 
of twenty hours in a heavy sea, they arrived safely in 
England. 

Sunday in Paris has not much of Sabbath quiet. The 
crowds are augmented on the avenues and in the parks, but 
on many streets the stores are wide open, and goods are 
sold as upon the other days of the week. The storekeepers 
who open on Sunday are not confined to any one class of 
tra,de. We should cherish our Sunday because it is God's 
day and is also man's day of rest. We should sternly con- 
front the "personal liberty" people who wish to introduce 
the "Continental Sunday." The plea "for the people" is 
often a plea in disguise for the pocket. There is a happy 
medium between too much Puritanism and too much Con- 
tinentalism. 

An Anthony Comstock is needed in many parts of Europe. 
Many people do not like restrictions, but all law is restric- 
tive, and law is necessary. The declaration: "To the pure 



Immoral Books and Prints. 469 

all things are pure" is as false as it is general. People 
might just as well indulge their appetites without restric- 
tion, encouraging themselves by the declaration: "To the 
healthy all things are healthy." 

I noticed in the shop windows in Naples, Rome and Paris 
the undisguised display of immoral books and prints. The 
titles in Italy were all in the language of the country, but in 
Paris many were in English. As darkness approaches the 
light departs, so, as immorality enters the mind and heart, 
virtue takes its flight. No pen can depict the evil done by 
the reading of bad books and papers. No wonder that a 
people retrograde in strength and morality when they drink 
at the fountains of vice. 

" Vice is a monster of so frightful mien, 
As to be hated needs but to be seen; 
But, seen too oft, familiar with her face, 
We first endure, then pity, then embrace." 

Father Conway and I, having finished our stay in Paris 
took our departure for England. 



470 Dover, England. 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 

ENGLAND -— CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL AND THE SHRINE OF 
THOMAS A BECKET— LONDON — ITS CHURCHES AND MON- 
UMENTS — WESTMINSTER ABBEY — THE TOWER OF 
LONDON — CURIOS — PETERBOROUGH— DURHAM. 

There was nothing of special importance in our trip from 
Paris to Dover, a distance of two hundred and five miles. 
When the passengers boarded the steamer at Calais we 
found that English was the language of the day. This was 
a pleasant treat after listening for many months to foreign 
tongues. 

Before sighting the high hills at Dover, I proposed to 
Father Conway that we should visit Canterbury and its 
famous Cathedral ere going to London. He agreed to the 
proposition. At the landing two trains were waiting for the 
passengers. One train was the express bound for London 
direct, the other for Canterbury and way stations. 

• In crowding out of the steamer Father Conway and I got 
separated. He by accident got on the express for London. 
By chance I met him again, but not for some weeks, and 
then in another land. Hence I was alone on the rest of my 
trip through England and Scotland. 

Being in England, and near Canterbury, my mind went 
back to its missionary history. When in Rome I visited the 
great Monastery of St. Andrew on the C«lian Mount. 
Gregory lived there in A. D. 597. He had found in the slave 
markets of Rome some captive youths from England. Be- 
ing touched by their condition and learning that their 
country was not blessed by Christianity, he set out on a 
mission for its conversion. He was recalled before he had 



Canterbury Cathedral. 



471 



scaled the Alps. Having himself ascended the Papal Chair, 
he sent Augustine with forty monks on the mission to Eng- 
land. Chanting the Litanies, and marching in procession 
after the Cross, they approached Canterbury. Fortunately, 
Queen Bertha was a Catholic, and thus King Ethelbert, 




CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL. 



though a pagan, received the missionaries kindly. He him- 
self was baptized June 2, 597. It is said that ten thousand 
converts were baptized the following Christmas at Canter- 
bury. The King gave up his palace as a residence for the 
missionaries. Augustine died in 604. 

We skip over a space of more than five hundred years 



472 St. Thomas a Becket. 

and come to a scene forever associated with Canterbury. 
The State Chancellor and bosom friend of Henry II., Thomas 

a Becket, was selected by the King to be the Archbishop of 
Canterbury. He who had lived in almost regal magnificence 
then became a rigid ecclesiastic. Refusing to be the tool of 
the King, he incurred his deep anger. In a transport of 
indignation, the King exclaimed, in the presence of some 
courtiers: " What cowards I have about me; what sluggish 
wretches! Is there no one who will rid me of this turbulent 
priest?" 

Impelled by these words, four knights secretly set out 
for Canterbury, determined to do away with the Archbishop. 
While the Divine Office was being recited at 5 o'clock .in the- 
afternoon the conspirators entered the Cathedral. In the 
winter twilight a loud voice asked: "Where is Thomas 

a Becket, traitor to the King?" There was no response. 
" Where," cried the voice, "is the Archbishop?" "Here I 
am," replied the Archbishop; "no traitor, but the priest of 
God. What do you wish? " " Your life," they cried. " Gladly 
do I give it for God and for the Church." Saying " Into 
Thy hands I commend my spirit, Lord," the Archbishop 
fell beneath the blows of the conspirators on the 29th of 
December, 1170. 

When the terrible news reached King Henry he appeared 
to be deeply afflicted, and vehemently protested that he was 
not guilty of Thomas a Becket's death. 

One day in July the King walked barefoot through the 
streets of Canterbury, as a pilgrim and penitent, to the 
Shrine of St. Thomas. He knelt at the Cathedral door and 
then in tears went to the spot where his once dear friend 
had fallen beneath the blows of the murderers. He then 
approached the crypt and knelt weeping at the tomb. Pub- 
lic atonement was made for the rash words that had caused 
the crime. The King then received a penitential scourging. 



Round About Canterbury. 473 

Left to himself, he passed the night in lonely meditation at 
the Shrine of the Martyred Saint. 

The Archbishop was canonized in 1174. Thenceforth 
pilgrimages to his shrine became numerous. Chaucer, in his 
" Canterbury Tales," relates something of these events. 

Though the gorgeous shrine is now no more, having been 
despoiled and destroyed in the dark days of England's 
apostacy, pilgrims still come and pray in large numbers at 
the Shrine of the Martyred Archbishop. 

Archb'shop Stephen Langton, to whom the people owe 
the Magna Charta, is buried in Canterbury Cathedral. Here 
are also entombed the remains of Cardinal Pole, the last 
•Catholic Archbishop of Canterbury. 

I walked through ancient Mercury Lane, and under the 
old and massive gateway to enter the very fine Cathedral 
grounds. The church is constructed of stone, and is. five 
hundred and twenty-two feet long. On the payment of a 
small fee I was conducted through the building by one of 
the official guides. In the vestibule I found a printed notice 
requiring all persons within the parish to make out and de- 
liver lists, within twenty-one days, of all taxable property, 
that church rates might be assessed thereon. 

On the well-kept Cathedral grounds are the episcopal 
palace, the parsonage and the college. The town is quaint, 
but homelike; the streets narrow, but clean. The Catho- 
lics possess a fine, large stone church, well situated. 

I passed through the old graveyard on a path that crosses 
it diagonally. The cemetery covers about an acre of ground. 
Some fine sheep were clipping the grass in it. 

I visited St. John's Park. It covers about ten acres of 
ground, and is well kept. Many children were playing in it. 
There was no sign requiring them, "Coxey," or any one else 
to " keep off the grass." 

In the evening I started for London, a little over fifty 



474 London. 

miles distant. It was dark when I arrived in the largest 
city in the world. A passenger on the train gave me a few 
directions to get to the hotel. 

I passed from the station down to the underground rail- 
road. Trains of from eight to ten coaches w^ere passing 
about every two minutes. Each train had some sign to indi- 
cate the places it reaches. I soon found one for Gower 
Street, and boarded that. In about five minutes I reached 
the place. After ascending the stairs I found my hotel just 
across the street. 

I was very glad to hear from friends at home in the 
letters that awaited me. A welcome epistle from Bishop 
Horstmann, referring in complimentary term? to my letters, 
of travel, kindly extended my leave of absence for a month. 

I was much surprised the morning after my arrival to find 
the hotel door locked at 7 o'clock in the morning. No one 
was about. I noticed that 7 o'clock was the earliest time 
marked on the " call board." A sign hung on the door: "If 
you w^ant to get out, ring the bell under the stairs." I did 
not know what stairs, so I had to content myself with looking 
out of the window. Who could imagine a large hotel in New 
York or Chicago, or any American city, closed at 7 o'clock 
of a busy week day morning? There is not much rush or 
push in London, but when things finally do move there is 
great momentum. 

In the parlor of the hotel I heard two clergymen of the 
Church of England talking of the war, etc. One of them, I 
think, was a Bishop. They had the fashionable English 
stammer or stutter. 

"America will, after a time, want Jamaica," said one. 
" Oh, yes!" said the other, " I believe America will yet have 
the whole West Indies." No objection was raised. "I 
wonder of what nationality were the soldiers who won those 
battles in the late civil war over there?" " Really, I don't 



The Queen's Reception. 475 

know, but likely a goodly number of them were Irish." After 
a pause one said: "I saw the tomb of (Gladstone to-day. 
He is buried so that people walk over his grave. I really 
don't like this walking over the graves of people." 

London is too vast and too full of places of historical 
interest to be described in detail. With some six million of 
population crow^ds are found almost everywhere. I rode and 
rambled about a great deal in a busy week, and got a glimpse 
of many things and saw numerous places of renown. 

While walking in St. James' Park I found that I was 
there on one of the Queen's reception days. I had an oppor- 
tunity of seeing the people who call upon royalty. The car- 
riages in line covered about one-eighth of a mile. There 
was an abundance of style and wealth. The beauty and the 
brave awaiting their turn did not appear to be averse to the 
curious scrutiny of the thousands who lined the way to the 
palace. Those on the walks had no tickets, but they took 
in as much of the show as possible. I did not seek to be 
presented to the Queen, though I was near the palace. 

Saturday afternoon I inquired from a cab driver about 
the location of the nearest Catholic Church. He showed me 
one around the corner on Gordon's Square. On entering I 
noticed the name in the vestibule: "St. Andrew's Catholic 
Apostolic Church." The title had not enough of adjectives, 
and yet too many to be the True Church. I went out and 
walked on. After a time I asked a policeman to direct me 
to a Catholic Church. He did so. Remembering "St. 
Andrew's," I asked: "Is the church you speak of a real 
Catholic Church?" "Yes," he said, "that is the genuine 
Catholic Church." x-lnd so it proved. It bore the name of 
St. Aloysius. Father Smith was the pastor, having Father 
White and Father McCarthy as his assistants. They received 
me very cordially. 

Father White very kindly showed me around London for 



476 Among the Churches. 

the better part of two days. On Sunday we visited a num- 
ber of Catholic Churches. 

We went to St. Patrick's, in Soho Square, where the 
famous Father O'Leary officiated for a number of years. A 
tablet in the vestibule reminds the visitor of the fact. 

We visited the Church of the Brompton Oratory, made 
famous by Father Faber, Cardinal Newman and others. On 
the first pew I noticed the name of the Duke of Norfolk, one 
of the most prominent men in England. I was told that 
with other titled gentlemen he had carried the canopy in the 
procession at the Forty Hours' the week before my arrival. 
He often served Mass, and appreciated the honor. The Duke 
had charge of all the arrangements for the funeral of Hon. 
W. E. Gladstone. The church is very large, is finely situated 
and very tasty. 

The grand new Catholic Cathedral, under course of con- 
struction, is not very far away from' Westminster Abbey and 
the House of Parliament. x4.t that time it was surrounded 
by a forest of scaffolding. 

In the Penal days Catholic Churches were proscribed. 
The Embassy Churches were then the only places where Mass 
was allowed. Father White showed me, wedged in among 
buildings, the old Belgian Embassy Church of those days. 

One of the churches confiscated and takf^n from the 
Catholics in the days of persecution was the Church of St. 
Ethelreda. This beautiful church was constructed in 1280. 
It came again under Roman obedience in 1876. We paid the 
ancient shrine a visit. The royal arms, which had been 
erected in the church, after its confiscation, have been re- 
moved from the sanctuary and placed in the vestibule. 

Looking through the newspapers on Saturday night I 
saw an announcement that Father Gallway, the Jesuit, would 
lecture on Sunday evening in St. Mary's Church, Moorsfield. 
I had heard Father Gallway highly spoken of as an orator. 



Westminster Abbey. 



477 



so I determined to be present at the lecture. After some 
difficulty and having once lost my way, I succeeded in 
locating the church. 

With the payment of four pence at the door I got a good 
seat. There were not more than two hundred and fifty per- 
sons present. It was far from the number I had expected. 
Soon the speaker made his appearance. Father Gallway 






-^t 



h 




v« , iJsrtTR 




WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 



was about seventy-five years old, a little stooped, but of a 
venerable presence. He took for his text: "Blessed are the 
peacemakers." He wished to demonstrate that the Catholic 
Church is the true Church, the Church of Christ. He said 
that Our Lord came to make peace between God and man, 
by establishing one religion. The devil, on the contrary, seeks 
to separate us by lies. A proper explanation sets all things 



478 In Wesminster Abbey. 

right. The speaker then went on to explain that much of the 
enmity against the Catholic religion came from lies. He 
demonstrated the unity and the beauty and the truth of 
Catholic teaching. Our Lord wants all men to be saved, and 
as St. Paul says, to come to the knowledge of the truth. 
He showed conclusively that the Catholic Church is the True 
Church, the Church of Christ. 

I noticed the red hat of Cardinal Wiseman suspended 
from the ceiling of that church. 

Father White and I walked to many places in London 
made famous by Dickens. However, the march of modern 
improvements has changed many of the old scenes. Perhaps 
the " Seven Dials " has been as greatly transformed as any 
other locality. 

We went to the House of Parliament, and also to West- 
minster Abbey. This building, it has been said, contains the 
history of England in stone. Monuments, old and new and 
notable, crowd the building. 

On a stone about two feet square in the pavement of the 
aisle I read, ''W. E. Gladstone" — nothing more. He had 
been buried but a few days. His resting place is near the 
magnificent monument of his old and eloquent opponent, 
Disraeli. In time the grave of the " Grand Old Man " will 
be properly marked and honored by admiring friends and a 
grateful people. 

The grave of Charles Dickens had many fresh flowers 
upon it and a number of visitors about it. It appears to be 
one of the centers of attraction. 

I was taken into one of the interior chapels which con- 
tains the tomb of St. Edward, formerly King of England. 
Let us pray that this royal Saint may be potent in bringing 
back his native land to the True Faith. Pilgrims go to his 
tomb in large numbers on his feast day, October 13. 

I will not write of the Bank of England, the Mansion 



The Famous Jesuit Church. 



479 



House, the great National Gallery of Paintings and Statuary, 
the museums, the parks, the famous streets, etc. A library 
of books has been written about them and the city. 

Through a street lined with stables we approached the 
famous Jesuit Church on Farm Street. The interior of the 
church is very beautiful. It was filled on Sunday by a fash- 




THE TOWER OF LONDON. 



ionable and aristocratic congregation. The church accom- 
modates all classes, and all classes find in her the consoling 
and infallible guide to Heaven. 

At the Church of the Oblates I found Bishop Gaughran, 
with whom, it will be remembered, I had spent some pleasant 
days in Cairo. He gave me a hearty welcome and an invita- 
tion to dine with him. He said he was to start the following- 
day for his faraway diocese in South Africa. He invited 
me to pay him a visit, but I did not set any time for a trip 



480 The Tower of London. 

to South Africa. He wished to be kindly remembered to- 
Mr. and Mrs. Luke Brennan and family of Cleveland. He 
had met them some years before in Paris. 

Who has not heard of " The Tower," the Tower of London? 
Every stone in its massive walls could tell of dark deeds and 
horrible crimes. 

Through Billingsgate and the famous fish market I made 
my way one afternoon to the Tower of London. The fortress 
with its turrets, its battlements, its roofs and its moats, pre- 
sents a formidable appearance. It communicates by land 
with the outer world at two points only. From a palace it 
became a prison, or served as both at the same time, but it 
is no longer a royal residence. The list of those executed 
in the Tower would make a long litany. 

The accompanying cut may give the readers an idea of 
the fortress. If England could efface the crimes committed 
in the Tower from history her record would be much 
brighter. 

The Tower is built on the Thames. Sometimes the pris- 
oners were brought by barge or boat from the prison to 
Westminster for trial. On his return trip the Duke of 
Buckingham, in 1521, refused to use the carpets and cushions 
in the barge, saying: " When I came to Westminister I was 
Lord High Constable and Duke of Buckingham, but now — 
poor Edward Bohun." Sir Thomas Moore went to his trial 
on foot in 1534, but returned by boat. Anne Boleyn landed 
here May 2, 1586. She was beheaded May 19. Queen Cath- 
erine Howard was rowed to the Tower in a barge and 
beheaded after three days, February 13, 1542. 

I found quite a number of visitors in the room in which 
the regalia and the crown jewels are preserved. The room 
is strongly guarded. In the large glass case the crown of 
Queen Victoria occupies the highest place. It weighs thirt}'- 
nine ounces, five pennyweights. The band supports four 



The Crown Jewels. 481 

silver branches, composed of oak leaves, each leaf bearing 
an acorn formed of a single pearl, which, meeting in the 
center, form, as it were, two arches, from which rises an orb 
or mound of diamonds, on which is the cross, also composed 
of diamonds, with a magnificent sapphire in the center. 
There are four other crosses. The one in front contains 
seventy-five brilliants, surrounding the famous ruby which 
belonged to the "Black Prince." The three other crosses 
are each set with an emerald center, surrounded respectively 
by one hundred and thirty-two, one hundred and twenty-four 
and one hundred and thirty diamonds. The crown is embell- 
ished by two thousand seven hundred and eighty-three 
diamonds, two hundred and seventy-seven pearls, five rubies, 
seventeen sapphires and eleven emeralds. 

I cannot give a description of all the jewels and crowns. 
Among the crowns are those of the Queen of James II., 
Queen Mary's and St. Edward's. Then there is the orb, car- 
ried in the sovereign's right hand at the coronation, set with 
jewels and diamonds. The royal sceptre with the cross of 
gold, is two feet nine inches long, enriched with diamonds, 
emeralds and rubies. Another sceptre, with the dove, of 
gold, is three feet seven inches long. 

Among the collections are the insignia of the British 
Orders of Knighthood, the Collar, the Garter, St. George and 
the Dragon, St. Patrick, the Thistle, the Bath, St. Michael, 
the Star of India, the Victoria Cross — all rich and gorgeous. 
Several pages might be used to describe these treasures. 

The guards are attired in a quaint uniform, coming down 
evidently for centuries. I got into conversation with one of 
them. I asked him about the number of visitors, etc. He 
said that they numbered from three to five thousand a day, 
but not so many on the days when admission was charged. 

I asked him. " What building is that?" 

" That is St. John's Chapel. It is the largest and most 



482 St. John's Chapel. 

complete chapel of the Norman period now remaining in 
England, and possesses famous tombs." 

"I would like to visit it. May I not enter?" I asked. 

" No visitors are allowed in." 

"Why?" 

" Last summer a dynamiter got in there and nearly 
destroyed it, hence the prohibition," he said. 

I talked with the guard for some time, and gave him my 
card. After a time he said: "Perhaps lean get you into 
St. John's." "Do so by all means," I said. He quietly 
called another guard to take his place, and we walked away 
together, finally entering the old chapel. He then locked 
the door. 

The interior is a plain vaulted chamber. There are twelve 
massive columns and two half columns, supporting thirteen 
arches. The chapel is fifty-five by thirty-one feet. In this 
chapel the Holy Sacrifice of the Mass had been offered daily. 

One large room in the Tower is full of arms and armor, 
representing diff^erent ages and nations. There is also the 
uniform worn by Wellington, also the soldier's cloak on 
which General Wolfe expired at Quebec at the moment of 
victory in 1745. Some of the eighteen-foot pikes reminded 
me of the brave men of Erin. There is also exhibited a 
mailed suit of Henry VHI. 

Two of the most illustrious victims executed in the Tower 
were Rt. Rev. John Fisher, Bishop of Rochester, and Sir 
Thomas More, the Lord Chancellor of England. Both of 
them were opposed to the divorce of Henry VHL from Queen 
Catherine. This was enough to cause the modern Blue 
Beard- to determine upon their death. 

Bishop Fisher refused to sign the act disinheriting the 
Princess Mary in favor of the issue of Anne Boleyn. At 
eighty years of age he was shut up in a cold and damp 
dungeon in the Tower. The 21st of June, 1535, was the 



Bishop Fisher — Sir Thomas More. 483 

day of execution. He exchanged his hair shirt for a clean 
white one, and dressed himself in his best apparel, saying: 
"This is my wedding day." Being old and feeble, two men 
had to carry him in a chair, but he ascended the scaffold un- 
assisted. He made the Sign of the Cross and knelt to pray. 
His head was exposed for fourteen days on London Bridge. 
But so many people came to look upon it, some asserting 
that rays of light shown round the head, that traffic was ob- 
structed. It was then thrown into the Thames. 

Sir Thomas More was perhaps the greatest Englishman 
of his day. He was learned, brilliant, a great writer and 
orator, and rose from dignity to dignity until he attained the 
highest office. Lord Chancellor of England. On the way to 
his execution on the morning of the 6th of July, 1535, he 
carried a crucifix, and often cast his eyes to heaven. As he 
passed, a good woman ofl^ered him a glass of wine. He 
refused it, saying: " Marrie, I will not drink now; my 
Maister had lasall and gall and not wine given to Him at the 
scaffold." At the block he knelt and repeated the Fiftieth 
Psalm, and then kissed the executioner, who had implored 
his forgiveness. He refused to have his eyes bandaged and 
calmly laid his head upon the block. Froude says: "The 
fatal stroke was about to fall when he signed for a moment's 
delay while he moved aside his beard. ' Pity that it should 
be cut,' he murmured; 'that has not committed treason,' 
with which strange words, the strangest perhaps ever uttered 
at such a time, the lips most famous in Europe for eloquence 
and wisdom closed forever." 

St. Paul's Cathedral of London is a large and expensive 
building, and is another Westminster Abbey for national 
tombs and monuments. As I wandered through it I deemed 
it far inferior, not only in size, but in architectural propor- 
tions and beauty, to St. Peter's. The fact is, that there is 
hardly any ground for comparison. St. Paul's is five hundred 



484 Peterborough — A Royal Visitor. 

feet long and two hundred and fifty feet wide at the tran- 
septs. It has a fine location. It is a large body without a 
soul. 

One day from the top of a " bus " I saw a house bearing 
the sign : " Thackeray Was Born Here." There are pleasure 
and profit frequently in calling the attention of passers-by to 
the places made notable by great events or by great men. 

Having visited the parks, and having spent some hours in 
the famous Zoological Garden, I left the gloom and fog and 
hum and noise and the crowds of London and made my way 
by fast train to the ancient town containing the famous Ca- 
thedral, Peterborough. It is said that Henry VIII. spared 
Peterborough Cathedral because the remains of Queen Cathe- 
rine were buried there. 

When I arrived in Peterborough I found it gaily deco- 
rated. Princess Louise was to come in the afternoon. The 
Cathedral was transformed and prepared for a grand concert 
in which several hundred singers were to take part that 
afternoon and evening. It was evidently a general holiday 
for the people of the town and the neighborhood. Peter- 
borough is seventy-five miles from London. That was the 
first stop made by the express after leaving London. 

The Princess Louise came to Peterborough the day I vis- 
ited the Cathedral. The people turned out in large numbers 
to welcome her. The afternoon and evening concerts at the 
Cathedral, honored by her presence, were largely attended, 
and she was received enthusiastically. 

From Peterborough I went to York, one hundred miles 
away. York for centuries has been a walled city. The 
walls are well preserved, but the town has grown beyond 
their confines. 

I lost no time in going to the celebrated Cathedral. 
Hawthorne speaks of the church in raptures, declaring it 
"the most wonderful work that ever came from the hand of 



The Celebrated Cathedral. 485 

man." While I consider this language rather hyperbolical, 
the Cathedral is very line. It is five hundred and twenty- 
four feet long, and three hundred and twenty-two feet at the 
transepts. The window called " The Five Sisters " is re- 
markable for its beauty and its rich stained glass. The east 
window was begun in 1450. I read some place that a glazier 
of repute named John Thompson took the contract to glaze 
this window for four shillings a week. The time occupied 
was three years. 

There are a number of monuments of very fine workman- 
ship in the Cathedral. Cromwell's soldiers defaced many of 
them. The magnificent Shrine of St. William, who was the 
Archbishop of York, was desecrated in this temple by a 
royal robber in the so-called Reformation days. But it is 
said that the relics of the Saint are still entombed in the 
Cathedral. Cardinal Wolsey was the fifty-seventh Arch- 
bishop who held the See of York. 

In the Cathedral is shown the ivory drinking horn of 
Ulphus. His sons had quarreled about the division of his 
property. Ulphus placed his horn on the altar as a sign 
that he gave all his possessions to God and St. Peter. This 
indicated his '' will and testament." Sometimes in our day 
we hear of people making gifts " in a horn." These are not 
desirable, but in the olden days gifts " in a horn " were 
solid, substantial and reliable. How very changeable our 
English language is in its signification from age to age. 

In modern days there are now and then big " spreads," 
and the biggest of them is, I believe, called a " barbecue." 
A barbecue sometimes includes a roast ox or two. We are 
told that at a marriage feast in "ye olden time " at York the 
first course consisted of fifty roast oxen. No wonder that 
John Bull is fond of his roast beef, when such traditions find 
credence in the " Tight Little Isle." 

About eighty-five miles away from York in the direction 



486 Newcastle — Durham and Its Cathedral. 

of Scotland, is Newcastle. It is a large city. In its popula- 
tion, its iron industries, its smoke and its grime it is several 
times over a multiplication of Newburg, Youngstowm and 
Newcastle, Pa. It is situated on the Tyne. There is much 
iron ship-building on that river. About two miles out are 
the immense gun or ordnance works of Sir William Arm- 
strong. How often we are warned not to do senseless things 
by the saying: "Don't carry coals to Newcastle." 

A man told me a good story about one of the towns 
through which the railway passes. It is celebrated for most 
excellent buns. A Bishop in the car called a boy and said: 
" My lad, here is sixpence. Go and get me a bun, and you 
may get another for yourself." The boy came back eating 
his bun. He gave threepence to the Bishop, saying: 
" There was only this bun left." 

We hurried on to Durham and its celebrated Cathedral, a 
distance of only fifteen miles. It was at the suggestion of 
Count Moore that I called at Durham ; nor did I regret my 
visit. The Cathedral crowns the eminence upon which 
Durham is built. I paused on the opposite hill, and I paused 
again on the old bridge as I took in the glorious scene. The 
high hill is clasped by the rivers which almost surround it. 
The steep, rocky and wooded bank, crowned by the ancient 
Cathedral and castle, forms a picture that will linger long 
and sweetly in my memory. There are few bits of English 
scenery lovelier than those in " Old Durham on the Wear." 

The Cathedral contains the remains of St. Cuthbert and 
also those of Venerable Bede.- There are many interesting- 
stories told of St. Cuthbert. His feast is, I think, celebrated 
on the 23d of March. The Venerable Bede was one of the 
most learned men of his day. He died in 735. St. Cuth- 
bert passed to heaven in 687. 

I was shown all through the Cathedral by the official 
guide. I will not dwell upon a description of the building. 



A Protestant Clergyman's Tribute. 487 

which I consider one of the finest ecclesiastical structures in 
England. 

The Rev. William Greenwald delivered an address in 
1879 on the Durham Cathedral. In the course of it he said: 

' ' Ireland is entitled to our regard and attention on account of 
our Christianity having been introduced from it through lona, 
and from other reasons about which I have to speak. Ireland was 
one of the principal centers of missionary work, and sent religious 
ambassadors to a large part of Europe throughout the Seventh, 
Eighth and Ninth Centuries. It was also a country whence art at 
that time was widely diffused. The art which we are accustomed 
to call Anglo-Saxon, and which is incorrectly known as Runic, is 
almost purely Irish. The art of ornamentation in use at that 
time in our own country, upon stone, metal and in books, orig- 
inated in Ireland." 

We would hardly expect such grateful acknowledgement 
to Ireland from the lips of an English Protestant clergyman. 
I rambled with interest through the old churchyard 
which surrounds the Durham Cathedral. The tombs are very 
old, and most of the inscriptions are illegible. Here, how- 
ever, is one upon an architect: 

' ' Here lies Robert Trollop 

Who made yon stones roll up; 

When Death took his soul up. 

His body filled this hole up." 

I knew that Ursham College, a famous Catholic institu- 
tion, was in the vicinity of- Durham. I asked a man the 
distance. "The distance to Ursham College? Well," said 
he, " it is five miles there and four miles back." " That is 
rather strange," said I. "It be," he said; " but this is the 
how of it. It is up-hill there; it is down-hill back. You 
come back by a shorter way than you go." This explanation 
gave the key to the puzzle. 

After looking through the town and getting a fine view 
of Durham from the station, I started for Edinburgh, over a 
hundred miles away. 



In the Land op the Thistle. 



CHAPTER XL. 

IN THE LAND OF THE THISTLE — RAMBLES IN THE ANCIENT 

SCOTCH METROPOLIS — EDINBURGH CASTLE — CURIOUS 

EPITAPHS — GLASGOW — THE FAMOUS CATHEDRAL — 

BUSY SCENES ALONG THE CLYDE — GREENOCK. 

Berwick, on the boundary between England and Scotland, 
is a town of about fifteen thousand inhabitants. 

I arrived in Edinburgh early in the evening. It is a city 
of about three hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants. It is 
divided into the " Old " and " New Town " by a large open 
valley. That valley is made into a public park, through 
which the railways, almost hidden from view, pass. Princes 
Street, in the " New Town," overlooks the park. On this 
street are the principal hotels. 

Across the valley, upon a rocky bluff, nearly four hundred 
feet high, stands the famous castle. To enter it, I passed 
over the drill ground, upon which a number of raw recruits 
were being put through their steps. In days gone by, the 
drill grounds had witnessed a number of executions. With 
one of the official guides, I passed over the drawbridge and 
went along a paved roadway, spanned at the upper end by a 
prison. In this prison Argyle passed the night before his 
execution. When we reached the summit of the rock, we 
had a very fine view of the city. 

Within the castle and on its highest point is Queen 
Margaret's Chapel. It is a small stone building, about 
twenty-five feet by twelve feet. 

In the crown room in the castle are the crowns of Robert 
Bruce and Charles II. ; the sceptre, the sword of state pre- 
sented by Pope Julius II. to James IV.. and the royal jewels. 



Edinburgh Castle. 



489 



There is shown a room less than nine feet square, in 
which James VI., afterwards James I. of England, was born. 
In the ante-room is the portrait of his mother, Queen Mary. 

On the south side of the court is the old Scottish Parlia- 
ment House, now used as a barracks hospital. 

High street, in the " Old Town," was once considered the 
finest street in Europe. There are many finer now, even in 




EDINBURGH CASTLE. 



Edinburgh itself. On my way to it I passed Grassmarket, 
the place of public execution. On, or near. High Street 
lived David Hume, the historian. Midway on High Street is 
St. Giles' Church, where the fanatical John Knox preached. 
In what a strange and dishonorable place his remains are 
buried! South of the church, in the pavement of the public 
street, and level with it and forming part thereof, is a stone 
about two feet square, inscribed, " J. K., 1572." This is the 
grave of the bloodthirsty Knox. I had some difficulty in 



490 Mementoes of John Knox. 

iinding it. One would think that he had been buried there 
as a malefactor by public edict. 

Farther down the street is the house in which Knox 
lived and died. On the outside I read the inscription: 
" Lofe. God. above. al. and. your. nichbour. as. yi. self. " 

When Mary Stuart wished for herself the freedom of 
worship which she conceded to others, Knox said: "I had 
rather face ten thousand enemies than know that one Mass 
is said in Scotland." He declared that the murder of Rizzio, 
the Queen's secretary, was a " just act and worthy of all 
praise." 

Passing- down High Street I came to Holyrood Palace. 
The most interesting part of it is Queen Mary's apartments, 
Darnley occupied the room on the first floor. In the little 
boudoir Rizzio was assassinated March 9, 1566. 

In the palace is a large number of paintings of Scottish 
Kings. The Chapel Royal shows the departed grandeur 
even in its ruins. In the vaults were buried James II., James 
V. and his Queen and David II. 

' ' Earth builds upon the earth 
Castles and Towers ; 
Earth saj's to the earth 
' All shall be ours. ' " 

The house in which Sir Walter Scott was born was pulled 
down in 1871. Fine monuments in the park perpetuate the 
memory of Scott, Burns, Livingstone, Adam Black and 
others. 

Where High Street is intersected by the North and 
South Bridges stands the Tron Church. I mention this be- 
cause a public tron, or weighing scales, stood there. When_ 
this tron showed that the salespeople cheated in weight, 
they were nailed up by the ears. How many could be easily- 
fitted for earrings if that penalty for false weight were now 
inflicted in cities. 



In the Country. 



491 



Edinburgh contains a gallery of fine paintings. It also 
boasts of some large and very fine libraries. There are some 
public buildings in the city that are patterned after those in 
Athens. For this reason, and for other reasons, Edinburgh 
is sometimes called the " Modern Athens." 

One afternoon I rode out in the country about eight 
miles from Edinburgh. The ride was delightful. The 
homes of the gentry bespoke taste, comfort and wealth. 




THE FORTH BRIDGE. 



The roads are remarkably good, and are kept so by constant 
and intelligent supervision. The roads are lined by stone 
walls or hedges, and sometimes by both combined. The 
mansions of the landlords are generally hidden away in 
groves far back from the road, and are approached by wind- 
ing driveways. The tasty lodge of the gatekeeper is always 
found at the entrance of an estate. We went as far as the 
celebrated railway bridge that spans the Firth of Forth. 
I visited two old cemeteries in Edinburgh. I. spent some.. 



492 Curious Epitaphs. 

time in looking at the tombs and their inscriptions. In 
Dean Cemetery are buried Lords Jeffery, Cockburn, Murray 
and Rutherford. In Warriston Cemetery Alexander Smith, 
the poet, lies buried. I also saw the grave of De Quincy. I 
read this sign: "To feu or sell." "Lairs may be purchased 
at £3 and upwards." "Feu "will be recognized as an old 
word meaning " to let " or " to rent." 

It appeared to be the custom to place on the tombstones 
the vocation of the departed. I read: " Printer," " Plumber," 
" Bootmaker," " Carpenter," " Accountant," " Banker," etc. 
On several tombs were inscribed: "He was a Writer on 
the Signet." On another tomb: 

"Rev. George Paxton, D. D., Pastor of 'Original Seceders. ' 
Did not put off his armour until called upon to put on his 
crown." 

Upon another tomb was the inscription: 

" In memory of Luke J. O'Neil. Born in the Kingdom of 
Naples, 1736; died in Edinburgh, 1S24. Nephew of the illustrious 
Arthur J. O'Neil, Duke of the Holy Roman Empire, on special 
service and Governor-General of Arragon." 

I also saw the tomb of Adam Smith, the writer. On one 
tomb I read: 

" Peter Locke, his remains are loS feet from here." 
The following epitaph is on a tomb in Edinburgh: 
" John McPherson 
Was a wonderful person ; 
He stood 6 ft. 2 
Without his shoe. 
And he was slew 
At Waterloo. ' ' 

Some of the inscriptions teach and preach to the living. 
" Time was I stood where thou dost now, 

And look'd, as thou look'st down on me ; 
Time will be, thou shalt lie as low, 

And others then look down on thee." 



Scotland's Beautiful Scenery. 493 

Here are two others that cannot be said to eulogize the 

deceased: 

" Here lies John Hill, a man of skill, 

His age was five times ten, 
He never did good, and never n'ould, 
Had he lived as long again." 

" Here lies Lord Coningsby, be civil, 
The rest God knows, perhaps the devil." 

I will conclude the quotation of epitaphs with this one 

which was written nearly one hundred years ago. Of 

course, it would not apply to any of the gentler sex of our 
day: 

" Here lies, thank God, a woman who 
Quarrelled and stormed her whole life through ; 
Tread gently o'er her mouldering form. 
Or else you'll raise another storm." 

In the early evening I left the beautiful arid historic 
Edinburgh for the city of Glasgow, about forty miles away. 

There is a great deal of grand and beautiful scenery in 
Scotland, and there is much to attract the tourist in the 
towns and cities and highlands. Many writers of the present 
day are making fame and fortune in depicting the lives, the 
manners and customs, and the quaint speech of the people 
in the "Land of Burns." But the traveler who has to 
"swing around the circle" in a brief period cannot go into 
all the by-ways, be the attractions and the ghosts of the past 
ever so alluring. 

As we were nearing Glasgow, a fellow-passenger gave 
me some information about the city, and recommended to 
me a good hotel. There are no hotels to be compared with 
the hotels in the United States for comfort, conveniences 
and accommodations. When I got on the " lift," it moved 
so slowly, so very slowly, that I asked the operator: 

"Is this the passenger lift?" 

"Oh, yes, sir," he said; "it is better than to climb," 



494 Glasgow. 

"Well, yes," I said, " it is if one be not in a hurry." 

I made quite a general round of Glasgow, and visited the 
points of interest in the city. Glasgow is a very flourishing 
city, and has grown rapidly. It now numbers something 
over eight hundred thousand inhabitants, and hence is the 
second largest city in Great Britain. It is renowned as a 
great manufacturing, ship-building and commercial center. 

A little over one hundred years ago, James Watt, the 
inventor of the steam engine, reported that the depth of 
water in the river was three feet three inches. As the 
result of constant dredging, steamers drawing twenty-three 
feet of water can now easily enter the river. The perse- 
verance of the Scotch in converting the Clyde into a harbor 
is worthy of admiration. In many places ships three abreast 
line the extensive docks. The work of improving the Clyde 
has cost nearly $45,000,000. 

I went to see the new University. It is approached 
through the West End Park. It has a frontage of six hun- 
dred feet, with a fine central tower. It cost $2,500,000. 

Glasgow Green is often referred to in song. It is a park 
which extends one mile along the Clyde. It is adorned with 
an obelisk of Lord Nelson, and is the scene of open-air 
preaching on Sunday evenings. Watt was strolling through 
this park when the central idea of the steam engine occurred 
to him. 

George Square is the central point in Glasgow. It is 
situated near the two railway stations. At the center of it 
stands the Scott monument, a fluted column surmounted by 
a gigantic statue of the poet. There are also bronze statues 
of Queen Victoria and of the Prince Consort, of Watt, Liv- 
ingstone, Campbell, Burns, Peel and Lord Clyde. Banks and 
public buildings surround the square, many of them being 
very fine and costly. 

Tourists in Glasgow make it a point to visit the famous Ca- 



The Glasgow Cathedral. 



495 



thedral. It is celebrated for its beauty, its age and its monu- 
ments, and also from the fact that it is one of the two Catholic 
Churches spared from the fury of the iconoclastic " Reform- 
ers." But, though saved by the indignant people after it 
M-as doomed to destruction, it was not saved to the Church. 
It is under the use and control of non-Catholics. It is a 




THE CATHEDRAL. 

mute witness of injustice and persecution. It is three hundred 
and nineteen feet long. 

I found on tablets a list of Bishops and Archbishops who 
had presided in the Cathedral from 580 to 1560, the year of 
the upheaval in Scotland. 

St. Kentigen, sometimes called St. Mingo, presided from 
about 580 A. D. till 601. * * * Bishop Wm. Turnbull 
founded Glasgow University in 1450 authorized by a Bull of 



496 St. Kentigen — The Necropolis. 

Pope Nicholas V. issued about 1447. Glasgow was erected 
into an Archbishopric in 1491 by Pope Alexander VL 

It is affirmed of St. Kentigen, the founder of the Cathe- 
dral, that after he came to the years of understanding he 
never ate meat, nor tasted wine nor any strong drink; and 
when he went to rest, slept on the cold ground, having a 
stone for his pillow; and that, notwithstanding, he lived to the 
age of nine score and five years. He was visited in Glasgow 
by St. Columba, the celebrated Abbot of Zona. 

The Cathedral stands on an elevated spot in Glasgow. 

The beautiful Necropolis, or cemetery, is on much higher 
ground, and quite near the Cathedral. The celebrated cem- 
etery is approached by the "Bridge of. Sighs." Many fine 
monuments to men of renown are found in the Necropolis. 
From the cemetery a fine view of Glasgow and its surround- 
ings is presented. 

Before leaving Glasgow I called at a bank to get an ex- 
change of fifty francs of French gold. Not being able to 
dispose of it I had to go to the office of Cook & Son. I 
was charged three shillings, or seventy-five cents. I ex- 
pressed my opinion at the exorbitant rates. I had obtained 
the money at Cook's office in Paris. Cook gets the tourist 
going and coming, but fortunately I had not many dealings 
with the firm. 

When I was ready I called a carriage from the station 
stand. I was much surprised when I found that the carriage 
driver did not know the whereabouts of the steamboat land- 
ing. I expressed my astonishment. 

The driver said: '" Well, sir, we are generally given the 
number and the street to which to drive." 

I said: "A man in your position ought to know the 
location of public stations and landings. How is a stranger 
to know streets and numbers, and why should he be expected 
to direct a cabman to local points?" 



A Licensed Porter. 497 

I told him to drive to the hotel. There we located the 
landing and drove to the steamer. When we arrived at the 
dock, I said to the driver: " You ought, after this, to know 
where to find this dock." 

" Oh, I knew," he said, " but I could not tell." 

"Well, sir," said I, "you are not bound to keep such 
things secret." 

A porter quite advanced in years came and carried my 
luggage. After he had deposited it on the steamer I said: 

" I suppose you are employed by the steamship company? " 

" Well," he said, " I am and I am not. I am licensed, as 
you may see, sir," pointing to the large brass band about his 
arm. " Our badges are numbered, so that if anything be 
lost you can report the number of the porter that carried 
your luggage and have him brought to account. We pay 
ten shillings to the corporation to get this badge." 

"What pay do you get?" 

" No pay at all, sir, except such as you and the likes of 
you give me for the service I render." 

When I had settled with the licensed porter I took a look 
at the steamboat that was to carry me across the water to 
Ireland. It appeared to be a staunch boat, but not over 
eight hundred tons. I would not wish to make a very long- 
voyage in her, with the prospect of heavy storms. On pass- 
ing up to the prow I saw that our steamer bore the welcome 
name " Shamrock." The lines of Moore came to me : 

"Oh, the Shamrock, the green immortal Shamrock, 

Chosen leaf 

Of Bard and Chief, 

Old Erin's native Shamrock !" 

It was an hour or more before the "Shamrock" left her 
moorings. Meantime I enjoyed the panorama of many ships 
bound in and out. I could then understand something of the 
high rank which Glasgow enjoys in the comme!tcial world. 



498 Anecdotes. 

Passengers are carried from London to Glasgow by raiL 
From Glasgow they may go by rail or by water to Greenock. 
I concluded to take the steamer. A gentleman who was to 
go by rail told the following amusing story at the hotel the 
previous night:. 

Recently a man was going by the night mail to Carlisle. 
Before starting he called the guard, tipped him heavily and 
said: " I am going to sleep, and am a heavy sleeper, but I 
must get out at Carlisle. Get me out at all hazards. Prob- 
ably I shall swear and fight, but never mind that. Roll me 
out on the platform if you can't get me out in any other 
way." The guard promised, the train started, the man w-ent 
to sleep, and, when he woke up, he found himself in Glasgow! 
He called the guard and expressed his views in powerful lan- 
guage. The guard listened with a sort of admiring expres- 
sion, but when the aggrieved passenger paused for breath he 
said: "Eh, mon, ye have a fine gift o' swearin', but ye 
conna haud a cannle to the ither mon whom I rolled out on 
the platform at Carlisle." 

The steamer started on her trip at 4 p. m. .Just before 
her departure a passenger, looking at the clock, said: 

" I don't see why the dial of a clock has the four Fs (IIII) 
instead of the usual IV. I would like to know the reason." 

" Well," said one, " it was by a royal edict." 

" How so and when? " 

"When Henry Vick carried to Charles V. of France the 
first accurate clock the King said that IV. was wrong, and 
should be changed to IIII. Vick said, ' You are wrong, your 
Majesty.' The King thundered out: 'I am never wrong! 
Take it away and correct the mistake.' From that time the 
four I's have stood on the clock's dial." 

As we went down the Clyde I was struck with the miles 
and miles of shipyards, filled with the iron skeletons of ships. 



Busy Scenes Along the Clyde — Greenock. 499 

They were of all sizes and classes. The " men-of-war " stood 
in close proximity to the '' ocean greyhounds." The large 
freighters were side by side with the small river boats. 
There were hundreds of vessels under construction. The 
customers of the yards were from all nations. Free trade 
evidently is no drawback to the capitalist or the mechanic 
on the Clyde. The scale of wages, as told to me, showed 
that in this line, at least, the " protected workingman," who 
is generally not protected, is not better paid than his brother 
on the Clyde. 

At 6 o'clock we arrived at Greenock, a city of eighty 
thousand. Vast new docks have been built there and the 
most extensive shipyards on the Clyde are at Greenock, 
twenty-two miles from Glasgow. 

I found that quite a number of passengers prefer to 
travel by rail from Glasgow to Greenock. They gain an hour 
in Glasgow, and overtake the steamer at Greenock. How- 
ever, I enjoyed the ride through the bee hive of industry 
along the River Clyde. 

I took advantage of Our stay of an hour and a half to 
take a ride through the streets of picturesquely situated 
Greenock. The ocean steamers for New York take their 
passengers and mails at the " Tail of the Bank." 

Burns' "Highland Mary" is buried in the old kirkyard at 
Greenock. 

I saw on the main street the sign " The Cathohc Herald." 
I tried to get a short talk with the editor, but after climbing 
the stairs I found that "the force" had gone home and the 
office was closed for the day. I dropped my card in the box 
to let the editor know that a visitor from "across the 
water" had called. 

I got back to the "Shamrock" with but little time to 
spare. I found that the number of passengers had been 
largely increased. The signal was given, and off we started 



500 Across the Irish Channel. 

for the shores of Erin. We had a very enjoyable ride 
through the Firth of Clyde and out into the wider expanse 
of blue water. The sea was smooth, and hence there was no 
danger of "drowning the 'Shamrock.'" 

I remained on deck reading. I was surprised to find that 
I could still read by the light of day at 10 p. m. By the 
way, the newspaper I was reading contained the following 
from "Boynton, the American Wanderer." He wrote as 
follows to a friend: 

' ' To-morrow is to be an eventfiil day for me, as I am to be 
united in wedlock to. one of the most beautiful and accomplished 
ladies in Dviblin. Take my advice: If you should attempt to 
walk around this sphere and remain single, never tramp through 
Ireland." 

What a neat and delicate compliment Boynton paid to 
the maids of Erin ! 

I had a talk with the chief engineer on a number of sub- 
jects. In reply to a question he said that sometimes they 
had heavy storms on the sea between Scotland and Ireland. 
In such cases they ran the " Shamrock " under the protec- 
tion of some convenient island, or into some arm of the sea. 
He told me that once they had a delay of two days to ''let 
the blow out." 

Discussion, story and song, as a rule, occupy the time of 
passengers afloat. 

Among those aboard was a sturdy, handsome young 
Irishman. He had a sweet tenor voice. We were all de- 
lighted when he sang "My Land," by Thomas Davis: 

"She is a rich and rare land; 
Oh ! she's a fresh and fair land — 
She is a dear and rare land — - 
This native land of mine." 



The Green Isle of the Saints. 501 



CHAPTER XLI. * 

THE GREEN ISLE OF THE SAINTS — A LANDING AT DERRY ^ 
WITH OLD FRIENDS IN THE HISTORIC AND FLOURISH- 
ING CITY — ST. COLUMBKILLE — EXCURSIONS IN 
THE CHARMING NORTH COUNTRY. 

When leaving home for my tour around the world an old 
woman said to me: 

"You'll surely go to Ireland, Father?'" 

" Yes," I said, " but I'll go there last." 

The very idea of leaving Ireland for the last appeared to 
hurt her, and she asked with some reproach in her voice: 
" Why will you leave Ireland for the last?" 

Not wishing to enter into the geographical necessity for 
a traveler who rounds the world going West, I said: " Don't 
we leave the nicest and sweetest things for the last?" 

"Oh, true for you, me darling. I am glad now you are 
going to Ireland last. That's the nicest and sweetest spot 
on earth." 

Then she said: " God speed you and send you safe home." 

The " Shamrock " steamed into the beautiful Lough Foyle 
early on Saturday morning. ■ We passed Moville, the prettily 
situated watering place, where the ocean steamers take pas- 
sengers for New York. 

As we steamed up the lough and into the River Foyle, I 
got my first glance of Ireland. The rolling land, clothed in 
its own peculiar green, stretching away into hill and dale, 
made a very favorable impression on me. 

Soon Derry, famous, historic Derry, came into view. It 
is situated on an eminence, and is half surrounded by the 
River Foyle, which is a fine, wide tidal river. The city is 



502 Historic Derry — An Old Friend. 

flourishing and one of the few in Ireland that is increasing 
in population, which was then about thirty-five thousand. 

The patriotic Irish call the city by its old name, " Derry," 
while it is designated "Londonderry" by the "Loyalists." 

In confiscating the estates of " certain Roman Catholics 
of distinction" who had "rebelled," James I. in 1608, confis- 
cated the whole of the six northern Counties of Armagh, 
Tyrone, Coleraine, Donegal, Fermanagh, and Cavan, and pro- 
ceeded to "plant" them with Protestant British and Scottish 
subjects. Derry was virtually transferred to the London 
company, and hence named Londonderry. 

The gates of Derry were shut against the army of James 
IL, December 7, 1688, by the 'Prentice Boys. The account 
of the siege, which lasted one hundred and five days, is very 
interesting. The anniversaries of the closing of the gates 
and the raising of the siege are still observed. The celebra- 
tion frequently brings on a fight. 

When I got ofll" at the landing at 6 a. m. it was raining. 
Commenting on it a man said: " Oh, it won't amount to much, 
but last month we had a fine shower that lasted ten days." 

When I got to the City Hotel, " just around the corner," 
there was nobody about. After I rang the bell half a dozen 
times, a man came to help me arouse the " dark." He rang 
and pounded and kept at it, until the door was opened by 
one who had evidently been disturbed from^ sweet slumber. 

After a very palatable breakfast I went to seek my 
friend, Father O'Doherty. I had written him a card from 
Glasgow. When I got to the Cathedral I found that " Father 
Philip " had gone to seek me. I hastened back and we met 
at the hotel. I could hardly recognize him. When we 
parted he had a long and heavy black beard. The priest be- 
fore me was clean shaven. After a warm greeting, he said: 
"Ah! I could not bring that beard into Ireland; it would be 
out of order here." 



Church of St. Columba. 



503 



After chatting pleasantly for some time he proposed to 
take me around the walls and through the city of Derry, and 
to show me the points of interest in the town. Before 
starting out I asked the manager, who was a clean cut, 
bright young man, the distance to Letterkenny. He told me 
eighteen miles, and asked if I had any acquaintance there. 




DERRY. 



I mentioned the name of Mr. John Gallagher, of Youngs- 
town, 0. " Why, I know him well," he said, " he was here 
yesterday." 

Father O'Doherty brought me to the Church of St. 
Columba. I found a fine Calvary group erected outside of 
the church and a number of people kneeling devoutly around 
it. There was also a fine statute of St. Columba. We went 
into the church. I was edified on seeing about two hundred 
people in prayerful devotion before the Blessed Sacrament 



504 St. Golumbkille. 

on a week day. It was then about 10 a. m., and the Mass 
had been finished some two hours previously. As the 
Blessed Sacrament was not exposed and no devotion was be- 
ing held the example of faith and piety was very impressive. 

Father O'Doherty rapped on a confessional and a priest 
came out. He had been engaged all the morning. The 
week before eight thousand people had received Holy Com- 
munion in that church. He also told us that some of the 
priests had heard confessions all night, on the eve of the 
Feast of St. Columba, June 9. It was in Derry that St. 
Columba or Golumbkille had erected his monastery in the 
year 546. In the tenth century the place was called " Derr.y- 
Golumbkille." 

I noticed from an inscription on the Galvary group that 
Leo XIII. had enriched it with Plenary Indulgences on May 
3, June 9, and September 14. 

St. Golumbkille from childhood had a yearning for 
heaven. From his youth he gave himself to God in prayers 
and penance. He lay on the bare floor, used a stone for his 
pillow and fasted all the year round. Yet his contenance 
was sweet and angelic. Though he loved his native land 
and its people, he departed for Scotland in 565. There he 
founded one hundred religious houses and converted the 
Picts who, in gratitude, gave him the Island of lona. 

For years before his death St. Golumba had visions of 
angels. He mourned when they told him that, in answer to 
the prayers of his children, his death had been deferred four 
years. He cried out: "Woe is me that my sojourning is 
prolonged." 

The call to Heaven finally came in his seventy-seventh 
year, June 9, 597. Surrounded by his disciples, he said to 
Diermit: "This day is called the Sabbath, that is the day 
of rest, and such it will truly be to me, for it will put an end 
to my labors." Then, kneeling before the altar, he received 



The Cathedral of St. Eugene. 505 

the Viaticum and slept sweetly in the Lord. His relics were 
carried to Downpatrick and laid in the same grave with the 
bodies of St. Patrick and St. Brigid. 

" In Down three saints one grave doth fill, 
Brigid, Patrick and Columbkille. " 

On leaving the church Father O'Doherty and I went to 
the cemetery nearby, and visited the graves of his father 
and mother and other near relatives. They lie buried in a 
hillside in a well-kept lot marked by a fine monument. 

There are two Cathedrals in Derry; strange to say, St. 
Columba's Cathedral is the Protestant one. It is a fine stone 
building. The details are good and harmonious, but the 
structure is not very large, being about one hundred and fifty 
by sixty-five feet. In a niche in front of the pulpit is a 
seated figure of St. Columba holding the "Fighting Psalter" 
in his hand. 

By some climbing of steps and steep ladders Father 
O'Doherty and I ascended the tower. From the outside of 
it we' got a magnificent view of the city, the Foyle and the 
green, hilly country round about, and also the Walker Mon- 
ument. Rev. Walker, a Protestant, was the commander of 
the forces in Derry at the time of the siege. It is said that 
the sword fell from the hand of the statue the night upon 
which the Catholic Emancipation Bill was passed. 

The Catholic Cathedral of St. Eugene is a fine stone 
building, beautifully situated on an eminence. The episcopal 
palace and the new parochial school, also of stone, are 
worthy of admiration. The Bishop was a namesake of 
Father O'Doherty, and, I believe, a distant. relative. 

We took dinner with Father McManimin and Father 
Boyle. After dinner I got my initial ride on the "Irish 
jaunting car." At first I was prepared to jump, as I feared 
every moment that I would slip ofi^. However, I soon got 
used to it and enjoyed the car very well. 



506 The Catholic Institutions. 

We visited the Catholic Institute and Temperance Hall. 
It is a large stone building, well furnished and well arranged. 
It contains an auditorium and a well-appointed stage, billiard 
and reading rooms and class rooms and bowling alley. I 
should judge that the property is worth over $100,000. It 
is certainly a great credit to the Catholics of Deny. There 
are few places with five times the population that can boast 
of as fine a building for the purpose. 

We visited the Convent of Mercy. Father O'Doherty 
was to be the orator on the occasion of its Golden -Jubilee 
that occurred in ten days after my visit. 

We called at the Seminary, which is an endowed institu- 
tion, and well situated in spacious grounds. A library and 
museum had just been completed. Father O'Doherty had 
donated to it many specimens from Australia and elsewhere. 

We visited the Old People's Home and the Orphan Asylum 
combined. All the inmates appeared to be well provided 
for. The children entertained us with some songs, which 
were well rendered. 

When we got back to the hotel I was greeted by 'Sir. 
John Gallagher. He had got my card at Letterkenny. and 
came back to meet me. I was delighted to see him. His 
genial presence made me feel nearer to home and the friends 
whom I had left so many months before. 

I determined to go that evening with Mr. Gallagher to 
be his guest at Letterkenny. 

Before starting we took a drive " over the hills and far 
away." I was charmed with the scenery in the neighborhood 
of Derry. The homes of the farmers appeared, in most 
cases, to be comfortable. 

We went north and did not stop until we had gotten in 
sight of Lough Swilly. That beautiful body of water inspired 
Father O'Doherty to recite some martial poetry connected 
with the scene. 



The "Grianan of Aileach." 507 

About five miles north of Deny are the remarkable ruins 
known as the " Grianan of Aileach." They are on the summit 
of a hill eight hundred feet high, and of an antiquity so re- 
mote that even tradition gives no account of them. They 
are supposed to be the ruins of the palace of the Northern 
Irish Kings. The masonry is precisely similar to that of the 
ruins found at Mycenae, in Greece. 

Ruins so remarkable could not fail to call the lively 
imagination of the people into play. Among the legends re- 
lated is the following: 

"In the Council Chamber where royalty once assembled in 
state, a thousand armed warriors sit resting upon their swords in 
magical sleep, awaiting the call to take their part in the struggle 
for the restoration of Ireland's freedom. At intervals the war- 
riors awake, and looking up from their trance, ask the question 
in tones which resound through every one of the many chambers 
of the Grianan: 'Has the time come?' Then a loud voice, the 
voice of the Spiritual Being who keeps watch over their sleep, re- 
plies: ' The time is not yet.' Then the one thousand armed war- 
riors resume their former posture, and sink into their magical 
sleep again." 

The history of the past and the aspirations of the present 
show that the children of Erin hope that ere long the spirit 
sentinel will answer: "The time has come!" 
" At length arose o'er that Isle of Woes a dawn with a steadier 

smile, 
And in happy hour a voice of power awoke the slumbering isle! 
And the people all obeyed the call of the chief's unsceptered hand. 
Vowing to raise, as in ancient days, the name of their own dear 

"land! 
My dream grew bright as the sunbeam's light, as I watched the 

isle's career 
Through the varied scene and the joys serene of many a future 

year — 
And, oh! what thrill did my bosom fill, as I gazed on a pillared 

pile. 
Where a Senate once more in power watched o'er the rights of 

that Lone Green Isle!" 



-508 En Route to Dublin. 

About a mile out of Derry we passed Magee's College. 
Mrs. Magee, of Dublin, donated $100,000 to erect that col- 
lege for the education of Presbyterian ministers for Ireland. 

During supper at the hotel I learned that the closing 
exercises of Maynooth College would occur on the following 
Monday. I determined not to miss them, as at that famous 
institution all the Bishops and a large number of the priests 
of Ireland would be assembled. Bat I promised Father 
O'Doherty and Mr. Gallagher that I would return to Derry 
and go thence to visit Letterkenny. 

That very Saturday at midnight the Derry County Tem- 
perance Society gave an excursion by special train to Dublin 
at the rate of four shillings for the round trip, one hundred 
and seventy-five miles each way. There was a large crowd 
at the station. I got into a good compartment with a 
number of nice, congenial and jovial people. There were no 
sleeping-cars. That convenience of railway travel is very 
uncommon in Ireland, and not common anywhere in Europe. 
When a sleeping car is to be had the price is from $6 to 
$8 for a berth. 

During our long ride the time was shortened by song and 
story. I was much amused by some of them. One man 
asked: 

" Did you hear the complaint what Biddy Morrissey made 
to the parish priest about her husband the other day?" 

"No." 

" Well, ye know he drinks, and with lamentations she 
said to the priest : ' He drank my forty pounds, my f oine 
cows, a horse and a bit of a goat I had, so he did.' " 

" Did you hear," said another, " the answer Jiramie 
McManus gave to the Magistrate the other day?" 

"Tell us." 

"The Magistrate asked: ' Where do you live?' 'With 
my brother.' 'Where does your brother live?' ' With me.' 



An "American" Story. 509 

The Magistrate, somewhat annoyed, asked: ' Where do you 
both live?' ' We live together.'" 

" Your Reverence," said one, " tell us some story from 
America that may help us along to daylight. You must 
know some that happened in your own presence." 

I told them the following, which was an actual occur- 
rence : 

While baptizing a child one Sunday afternoon, I happened 
to look around, and I was astounded to see the altar ablaze. 
Quickly I pulled off the draperies, and soon had the fire ex- 
tinguished. Noticing a man seated in the front pew, I asked 
him: "Did you not see the fire start?" 

" Yes, your Reverence." 

"Then, why did you not give the alarm?" 

"Well," he said, "I am not long over, and I never saw a 
child baptized in this country before."' 

"And did you think," I asked, "that in order to baptize 
a child here we set the church on fire?" 

" Well," he said, " after you began to baptize, I saw the 
Sister bring out a little lamp. It blazed up, and then she 
brought some clothes and put them upon it, and soon it got 
to going at a great rate, and then after you looked around 
and saw the fire, I thought it queer, but then I did not 
know." 

A young man in the corner told of a Confirmation exami- 
nation by the Bishop, who asked a boy: "What is matri- 
mony?" "Two persons getting married." "Could two 
little boys get married ? " " Yes, my lord." "How?" "To 
two little girls, my lord." He passed. 



510 Dublin. 



CHAPTER XLII. 

DUBLIN'S SIGHTS AND MEMORIES — FAMOUS BUILDINGS AND 

MONUMENTS — AT MAYNOOTH COLLEGE — ALL HALLOWS' 

COLLEGE — INTERESTING CURIOS — THE OLD PARLIA- 

ME. T HOUSE — DINNER WITH THE LORD MAYOR. 

We arrived at Dublin at 5 a. m. I took a jaunting car 
and was driven to the Imperial Hotel. I then went to the 
Cathedral, where I celebrated the 7 o'clock Mass. The Masses 
appeared to be continuous, and there were large congrega- 
tions at all of them. 

Much fatigued after the long night ride I was glad to 
get back to the hotel to obtain a few hours of needed rest. 

Sunday afternoon I made my w'ay to the famous burial 
place in Dublin, Glasnevin Cemetery. Long before reaching 
it I got a view of O'Connell's Monument. It had been chiefly 
owing to his exertions that the cemetery was founded in 
in 1832. His monument is a round tower, rising to one hun- 
dred and fifty feet. In a crypt beneath are the honored 
remains of " The Liberator." He died far from the land he 
loved. While on his way to Rome " he fell asleep in the 
Lord," in Genoa, Italy, May 15, ] 847. He gave expression to 
his will in the words. " My heart to Rome, my body to Ire- 
land, my soul to Heaven." 

" I thought of his unceasing care, his never ending zeal; 
I heard the watchword burst from all — the gathering cry — 

Repeal! 
And, as his eyes were raised to heaven — from whence his mission 

came — 
He stood among the thousands there, 
A monarch save in name. ' ' 

Near to the O'Connell Monument is the cross which marks 



In Glasnevin Cemetery. 511 

the burial place of the " Manchester Martyrs," Allen, Larkm 
and O'Brien. After the '' Requiscant in pace '' are the words 
and the prayer, " God save Ireland." They were executed in 
the jail at Manchester, England, November 23, 1867. 

Parnell's grave is near the O'Connell Monument. There 
is no shaft or tombstone on his grave, but the tributes of 
affection in the form of funeral offerings and memorials from 
different societies and sections were numerous. 

Curran, the great Irish orator and barrister, died in Lon- 
don in 1817, but his remains were not transferred to Glas- 
nevin until 1837. 

The great actor, Barry Sullivan, is buried nearby. His 
monument represents him in the character of Hamlet holding 
a skull in his hand. The inscription is from Macbeth: 
" After life's fitful fever he sleeps well." 

On another monument I read: "Edward Duffy, convicted 
of love of Ireland, May 21, 1867, and sentenced to fifteen 
years penal servitude. He died in Milbank Prison, 'England, 
January 17, 1868." 

I also saw the monument of the Rev. Dr. Cahill. The 
scene depicted on the tomb represents him preaching. The 
inscription tells that: "He died in Boston, U. S. A., October 
2, 1864. Brought here by his countrymen; fulfilling his 
wish." 

Near the entrance there is a very fine monument to Car- 
dinal McCabe. 

I noticed a number of burial lots for the dead of different 
religious orders, among them the Jesuits, the Dominicans, 
the Carmelites, the Augustinians, etc. 

There is hidden away amid the grass of Glasnevin the 
grave of the talented but dissipated sweet singer, Mangan. 
In an obscure house in Bride Street, Dublin, O'Daly, the book- 
seller, found him, weakened with opium and disease, dying 
of starvation, in 1849. He caused Mangan to be removed to 



512 Phoenix Park. 

a hospital, but the poet died soon afterwards, a victim of 
drink and drugs. 

There is one ballad he wrote on himself, entitled " The 
Nameless One." It is a saddening production. I will give 
only three verses: 

" Roll forth, my song, like the rushing river, 

That sweeps along to the might}- sea; 
God will inspire me while I deliver 
M}' soul to thee. 

" And tell how trampled, derided, hated 

And worn by weakness, disease and wrong, 
He fled for shelter to God, who mated 
His soul with song. 
******** 

' ' And tell how now, amid wreck and sorrow, 

And want, and sickness, and houseless nights, 
He bides in calmness the silent morrow 
That no ray lights." 

Notwithstanding his habits, Mangan was scrupulously 
pure in his poetry, his versions and translations. 

Glasnevin Cemetery is classic ground, and the last resting- 
place of many of the sainted and patriot dead, but while it 
is well cared for and has some fine monuments, it is not 
otherwise especially remarkable. I have seen much more 
natural beauty in other cemeteries, and especially in some in 
the United States. 

Phoenix Park was formerly part of the estate of Kil- 
mainham Priory. It is very large and very fine, comprising 
seventeen hundred and fifty acres, and is over two miles 
long. Within it are found the Vice-Regal Lodge, the Chief 
Secretary's Lodge, the Hibernian School, etc. There are a 
number of monuments. The Wellington Testimonial is two 
hundred and five feet high. Much has been written about 
the park since the Queen's recent visit to Dublin. 

There are a number of sections, ample in size, set aside 



Sackville Street. 



513 



for various athletic amusements. There does not appear to 
be any special restriction to " keep off the grass," yet the 
grass is abundant and inviting. The walks and roads and 
flower beds are especially looked after with taste and skill. 
There were a large numbef of well-dressed and good-humored 
people in all parts of the park, but the largest crowd 




SACKVILLE STREET. 

was assembled around that part in which a brass band dis- 
coursed fine music. 

"Why do they call this park by the name of Phoenix?" 
asked an Englishman on the car. 

The driver said: " Oh, because." 

"Because what?" asked the tourist, who continued: 
" There never was and there never will be such a bird as the 
Phoenix." 



514 The O'Connell Monument. 

"Well," said the driver, "that's the real reason, for 
there never was and there never will be such another park 
as this." 

That settled the tourist, and one man nearly slipped off 
the car from laughter. 

I came back to the city and wandered through Sackville 
Street, which is the widest, and, perhaps, the finest street in 
Dublin. It is about one hundred and twenty feet wide. 
O'Connell's Bridge, at the south end of Sackville Street, 
spans the Liffey. Nearby is the O'Connell Monument. It 
is a very fine work of art. The bronze statue of the " Liber- 
ator" is especially worthy of note. The celebrated Irish 
sculptor, Foley, designed the monument. 

One square farther up the street is the general postoffice. 
Opposite is the hotel where I, on one visit, stopped for a 
week. Near the postoffice is Nelson's Monument, one hun- 
dred and thirty-four feet high. The famous Rotunda is at 
the other end of the street. 

Early Monday morning I started for Maynooth. A smart 
ride in a jaunting car brought me to the station in time. I 
met there a number of priests who were also bound for May- 
nooth. In the compartment of my car there was a man 
with whom I entered into a conversation. In reply to a 
question, he said: "Maynooth is about fifteen miles from 
Dublin, and, mark ye, they are Irish miles at that." 

"What is the difference," I asked, "between an Irish 
mile and an English mile?" 

"Ah!" he said, "what a question! Sure, I'd have to 
have pen, ink and paper to make that out." 

When I told him that I thought an Irish mile made a little 
more than one and a quarter in the English measure, he 
acquiesced. 

Maynooth College celebrated its centennial in 1895. It 
is an ideal seminary, both as regards buildings and grounds. 



Maynooth College. 



515 



Some forty acres of land are attached to the college. They 
are beautifully laid out and well kept. There are long and 
shady walks and ample recreation grounds. Many will be 
surprised to learn that in Maynooth, Ireland possesses the 
largest purely ecclesiastical seminary in the world. There 
are six hundred seminarians in the institution — all having 
completed their preliminary studies. 










BIRDSEYE VIEW OF MAYNOOTH COLLEGE. 



Father MacHale, of St. Malachi's, Cleveland, had kindly 
given me a letter of introduction to Rev. J. Donnellon, the 
Burser, and to Rev. T. P. Gilmartin, the Junior Dean. These 
professors received me very cordially. However, it was a 
very busy time for all the faculty, as it was the occasion of 
the closing exercises and the place was crowded with all the 
Bishops and many ecclesiastics of Ireland, and several priests 
from abroad. 

On the Maynooth grounds is a fine building, called " Aula 
Maxima," donated by Rt. Rev. Mgr. McMahon, of the Cath- 



516 . The Exercises. 

olic University, Washington, D. C. This building furnishes a 
spacious auditorium on the ground floor. ■ 

The Bishops, the Faculty and the visiting priests, with all 
the students, assembled in the '' Aula Maxima," where Rev. 
David Deneen was publicly to defend his Theses on Scrip- 
ture, Universal Theology, Canon Law, and Church History. 
If he successfully defended each and all of the seventy-five 
propositions he would receive the Doctorate. 

I was given a good place on the stage, next to Father 
O'Neil, a Dominican, and to Dr. O'Mahony, a Lazarist, who 
proved to be objectors to Father Deneen's arguments. 

When the young priest ascended the pulpit for the ordeal 
his six hundred fellow students gave him an ovation. They 
wished to show that their sympathies and good wishes were 
with their representative. 

Rt. Rev. Dr. Healy, the historian, and Bishop of Clonfert, 
was the first objector, taking up the proposition on Papal 
Infallibility. The discussion was conducted in Latin. As 
Father Deneen answered the objections he was cheered by 
the students. The test continued during the afternoon. 
The different objectors were cleverly answered one by one. 
When the last objection had been presented and Father 
Deneen was greeted with " Bene Domine," the students rose 
to the occasion and greeted the successful candidate with an 
enthusiastic ovation. 

I found that the gardener in charge at Maynooth for the 
past fifty years was Mr. Martin, whose brother, the late 
Mr. John Martin, was an old and respected member of the 
Cathedral parish and well known in Cleveland. 

I was surprised at Maynooth by a greeting from one of 
the venerable Bishops. He addressed me byname, reminding 
me that we had met in Rome. I then recognized the prelate 
to be the Rt. Rev. Dr. Moore of Australia. Archbishop Carr 
of Melbourne, Australia, was also present. He had formerly 



The Lord Mayor of Dublin. 517 

been connected with Maynooth as a professor. On his way 
to Australia the Archbishop stopped in Cleveland. 

Several letters might be devoted to a description of the 
grounds, the buildings and the treasures of Maynooth College, 
but I find that I must be brief. 

It would be hard to find in any place a finer and more in- 
tellectual body of men than the Bishops and priests as- 
sembled at Maynooth for the closing exercises of the College. 

I left Maynooth most pleased with the visit, feeling well 
repaid for my night ride from Derry to Dublin to be present 
at the closing exercises. 

In Dublin a jaunting car soon took me from the station 
to the hotel. 

I noticed from the hotel window the office of " The Free- 
man's Journal," across the way, and near the general post- 
office. I paid a visit to the sanctum and made the acquaint- 
ance of the manager of that widely known Irish newspaper. 
He gave me considerable information and kindly proposed a 
walk to points of interest in the city. 

We passed O'Connell's and also Grey's monument. Cross- 
ing O'Connell's Bridge, which spans the Liffey, we passed 
the statues of William Smith O'Brien, Henry Grattan, Ed- 
mund Burke and Oliver Goldsmith. The statues which com- 
memorate some of Ireland's greatest sons are in most cases 
fine works of art. Our walk and our talk included College 
Green, the Bank of Ireland, formerly the Irish Parliament 
House, Trinity College, Stephen's Green, Dublin Castle and 
the City Hall 

At the City HaU I was introduced to Lord Mayor Tallon, 
a fine appearing gentleman between fifty-five and sixty years 
of age. Before my departure, the Lord Mayor asked: 
" Father McMahon, will you be in the city next Thursday 
evening?" On receiving an affirmative answer, he said: 
" Then I want you to come and take dinner at the Mansion 



518 All Hallows' College. 

House at 6 o'clock. I will invite a few friends and we will 
have a pleasant evening." I accepted the invitation so cor- 
dially extended, and expressed my appreciation of the honor. 
On my return, I again passed the old Parliament House. 
My thoughts went back to the time when the Union was 
passed by perjury, and fraud and the eloquent voices of 
Erin's sons were hushed within its legislative halls. 

" And thus was passed the L'nion, 

By Pitt and Castlereagh. 
Could Satan send for such an end 

More worthy tools than they? ' ' 

Curran was walking one day past the Parliament House 
with a nobleman, who had promoted the Union by his vote. 
" I wonder what they intend to do with that useless build- 
ing?" he said. "For my part, I hate the sight of it." 

" I do not wonder at that, my lord," said Curran, who 
opposed the Union. " I never yet heard of a murderer who 
was not afraid of his victim's ghost." 

The Rev. Dr. O'Mahoney, whom I had met at Maynooth, 
invited me to dine with the Faculty of All-Hallows' College. 
The college is beautifully situated in one of the suburbs of 
Dublin. The fine stone buildings and the large and beautiful 
new stone chapel are surrounded by about twenty acres of 
well-kept grounds. There are two hundred ecclesiastical 
students in the college. All of them are studying for foreign 
missions. About twenty-five of the seminarians were then 
preparing for their ordination. 

When we consider the size and population of Ireland, and 
bear in mind that in Maynooth and All-Hallows' alone eight 
hundred young men are preparing for the priesthood, we 
may estimate how blessed Erin is in religious vocations. I 
cannot bring to mind any other nation that has an institu- 
tion as flourishing as All-Hallows in native students alone, 
preparing for foreign missionary work exclusively. Over 



The Old Parliament House. 



519 



the main entrance is the very appropriate inscription, but in 
Latin, in large letters: "Going, therefore, teach ye all 
nations." 

Two Bishops from Australia were at the college seeking 
young priests for the Church in that far-off land. I under- 
stood that all those ready for ordination were assigned 
before the arrival of the Bishops. 




THE OLD PARLIAMENT HOUSE. 



I was shown through the college, and found it very well 
equipped. The college was for many years under the charge 
of secular priests, but it is now under the direction of the 
Fathers of the Mission, or the Lazarist Fathers. 

The exquisite new chapel is furnished with a very artistic 
and beautiful large marble altar, a donation by a friend of 
the Superior. 

On my way back to the city I passed the fine residence 



520 • The Four Courts. 

of Archbishop Walsh. It is surrounded by ample grounds 
and is within the city limits. 

The Custom-house is one of the finest buildings in the 
city. It was erected before the Union, and cost over 
$2,500,000. It is surmounted by statues of Industry, Com- 
merce, Plenty and Navigation. There are also statues of 
Europe, Asia, Africa and America. On the apex of the 
graceful dome stands Hope. When we consider the cen- 
turies of struggle and of misery in Ireland, no nation has a 
better claim to erect over her .finest building a statue to 
the virtue of Hope. 

i\.f ter visiting the Custom-house, for which, under present 
trade conditions, there is not very much use, I went to the 
Four Courts, nearly a mile farther up the Lifl^ey. That very 
fine structure was also erected before the time of the Union. 
I went through the building, and before the end of the noon 
recess I got to the large law library. . I handed my card to a 
clerk or cryer, who occupied a sort of a pulpit near the door. 
He asked me whom I wanted to see. I gave the name of the 
Hon. Timothy Healey, M. P. Thereupon the cryer let a 
shout out of him for "Tim Healey ! ! !" that could be heard 
a block away. The place was filled with lawyers. Soon the 
Hon. Mr. Healey made his appearance. He wore a curled 
grey wig, the ringlets of which reached his shoulders. He 
also wore a long black gown that had a considerable time, 
before seen better days. It was so threadbare that I admired 
Mr. Healey's humility and pitied his taste. 

Mr. Healey read my card and cordially extended his 
hand. He expressed his gratification at meeting me. After 
talking a time, he wished to know what he could do for me. 
I said that I was ready for any matter of interest. On re- 
flection he said that he thought I would be interested in the 
Record Office. That place is quite exclusive. Mr. Healey 
got it opened for me, and had a clerk sent to show me the 



Ancient Documents in the Record Office. 521 

ancient documents. I looked through them with much in- 
terest, and evidently rather surprised the clerk by taking 
notes. 

Among the items I jotted down and the papers and docu- 
ments I examined were the following: 

Bull of Pope Gregory IX., 1229, confirming the privileges and 
possessions of Christ Church, Dublin. 





THE FOUR COURTS. 

Estimate of the display of fireworks for the birthday of King 
George, 1779, £^5^ us lod. 

Music Bill, Ode Queen Anne's birthday, 1712, /,'i4 13s Sd. 

Parliamentary Writ. First return of Henry Grattan, 1775. 

Dissolution of the Monasteries, 1544, signed by Henry VIII. 

A grant from Strongbow to Hammond, son of Yorkill, one of 
the Danish families, about 11 74. 

Lord Darnley's ballot, 1800. 
, A will, still legible, written on a slate, but properly proven 
and admitted, for Sarah Chbsey, 1S34. 

IManuscript of Book of Common Prayer, 1665. 



522 Ancient Documents. 

y 

An award written in Irish, signed by Brehon, 153S. Kennedy 
vs. Kenned}-. 

Affidavit of Richard Mills as to the statue of King William 
being broken, October 13, 1714. 

Affidavit of Margaret Pender as to having a printed cotton 
gown cut off her back by stuff weavers, 26th of May, 1750. This 
demonstrates that trade protection is of an early origin. 

Surrender of Irragh bj' Hugh Magennis, 1583. ( His signature 
is attached.) 

Signature of Hugh O'Neil, Earl of Tvrone, i5<S6. 

Form of oath of supremacy. 

Queen's letter for the removal of Her Majestj^'s dog kennel on 
Arbor Hill, and for a lease of ground in Phoenix Park, INIay 20, 
1706, with autograph of Queen Anne. 

March 24, 1847, codicil of the will of Daniel O'Connell, with 
his signature, giving ^'1,500 to the Bishop of Kerry, which it was 
intimated was for the liquidation of a loan. 

Roll of Barristers' oaths, including a promise not to employ 
any " Papist " in their offices. I was much surprised to see the 
autograph of Henry Grattan among them. 

Autograph of Jonathan Swift, Dean of St. Patrick's, May, 1740; 
also of Esther Johnson, "Stella," 1725. 

To another paper is attached the signature of the Duke Arthur 
Wellesle}^ 1806, and to another, the signature of the Sheriff of 
Waterford in 1232. 

Oliver Cromwell's signature is attached to a receipt for ^,'450. 

Then I came across the autograph of King Henry VIII. 
confirming Milo Prior of Youngstecke, in the Bishopric of 
Ossory, to which he had been appointed by the Pope. 

I was much interested in these ancient and original docu- 
ments. They are closely guarded and preserved with much 
care. The specimens presented show the nature of some of 
them. A great deal more time than I had at my disposal 
would have been necessary to give a complete list of the 
treasures in the Record Office of the Four Courts. 

I need not describe Trinity College and its possessions, 
as the subject must be rather trite. The cricket grounds 
were being utilized in preparing for a match game, and quite 



Dublin Castle. 



523 



a number were watching the practice. This English game 
is not as popular in Ireland as the national games of hurling 
and foot-ball. 

In the MSS. room of the college library are the priceless 
treasures: "The Book of Kells," the "Book of Darrow," 
" Book of Armagh " and the " Book of Leinster." 







liMiilimMMi 



III I rfamr -*"■ -aa^—" 




DUBLIN CASTLE. 

Dublin Castle is the official residence of the Lord Lieu- 
tenant. While very finely situated, it is rather a gloomy 
building. My companion pointed out the gate through 
which Mr. Secretary Burke and Lord Cavendish passed on 
the fatal day when they went to Phoenix Park. He also 
showed me the saloon opposite, where the " Invincibles '' 
were on the watch for their departure from the castle. 
They then followed in a car and accomplished the terrible 
assassination in the park. 

On my way to the National Gallery I passed the house in 



-524 ■ Christ Church Cathedral. 

Avhich the Duke of Wellington was born. There would be 
much less effulgence in England's military glory were Irish 
genius, courage and generalship eliminated from her rolls. 
How prominent now in the public eye are Generals Roberts, 
Kitchener, White, French, etc. 

The National Gallery, in Dublin, is very creditable, indeed. 
It possesses fine statuary, and numerous and excellent 
paintings. 

The National History Museum is well worth a visit of a 
few hours. The collection of Irish birds is very large and 
complete. 

Christ Church Cathedral and St. Patrick's Cathedral are 
both confiscated Catholic churches now in possession of the 
Protestants. Christ Church goes back eight hundred and 
fifty years. St. Lawrence O'Toole officiated there about 
1170. It is said that he was buried there. A sealed and 
bound iron box in the shape of a heart is said to contain the 
heart of the Saint. Strongbow's tomb is also pointed out. 

About one half a mile west of Christ Church is the 
Church of St. Catherine. Opposite that church Emmett 
was executed September 20, 1803. 

In 1871 the whiskey distiller, Mr. Roe, "restored" 
Christ Church at an expense of $1,000,000. 

After a walk of about ten minutes from Christ Church, I 
reached St. Patrick's Cathedral. The Apostle of Ireland is 
said to have founded a church on the site of the present 
church. Cromwell and James II. are said to have turned 
the church into a barracks. It was " restored " by Sir Benj. 
L. Guinness, the brewer, at a cost of $700,000. St. Pat- 
rick's Cathedral is a fine, chaste stone building, three hun- 
dred by one hundred and sixty-seven feet at the transept. 

There are a number of monuments in the Cathedral, 
among them tablets to Dean Swift and Esther Johnson, 
" Stella." There is a bust of Curran. Carolan, the last of 



St. Patrick's Cathedral. 



525 



the bards, is commemorated by a bas-relief. There is also 
a memorial to Rev. Charles Wolfe, the author of "The Burial 
of Sir John Moore." 

Near St. Patrick's are the barracks of "The Troop" of 
the Lord Lieutenant. Mr. John C. Campbell, of Cleveland, 
had written to one of the members, Mr. Morris, concerning 





ST. PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL. 



my visit to Dublin. Mr. Morris showed me through the bar- 
racks. He took a day off and we took in the sights of 
Dublin. 

We first went to visit the Home for the Aged Poor, and 
were shown through the building. It is a very large and fine 
stone structure. The Good Mother lately in charge in Cleve- 
land was once stationed there. She is still remembered 
with respect and affection. 



•526 Dinner With the Lord Mayor. 

With Mr. Morris, I again visited Phcenix Park. On the 
way we passed the notorious Kilmainham Jail. We enjoyed 
a visit to the famous Royal Botanic Garden, and to a number 
of the churches in Dublin. 

We called on the Carmelite Fathers. I met there the 
Rev. Dr. Butler, an uncle of Mr. Richard Butler, of Cleveland, 
the efficient superintendent of the Workhouse. Dr. Butler 
invited me to dine with the Fathers on the following Sunday 
at 5 p. m. 

I spent a very agreeable day with Mr. Morris. He knows 
the city so well that I could not have had a better guide. I 
visited his pleasant home and met Mrs. Morris and prattling 
Baby Morris. 

On Thursday evening I called a " jarvy " at the hotel and 
was driven to the Mansion House to keep my appointment 
to dine with the Lord Mayor. I found a goodly and distin- 
guished company assembled. After the introductions, we 
were ushered into the large and finely furnished dining-room. 
Dublin's Lord Mayor entertains right royally. Cut flowers 
were strewn amid silverware and cut-glass on the long and 
wide table. The meal was served in high style by a body of 
experienced waiters. The room and the entire mansion were 
brilliantly illuminated by electric lights. There are four or 
more large and exquisite paintings on the walls, each of 
which is valued at from $10,000 to $20,000. 

After dinner, I was shown through the Mansion House. 
The parlor, sitting-room and billiard-room, are large and well 
furnished. The Lord Mayor and some of the guests went 
with me to that part of the Mansion House called the 
rotunda. The name indicates its shape. A raised platform 
encircles the hall. You will get an idea of its size, when you 
learn that eight hundred couples can occupy the floor at 
once. The hall is illuminated by electric lights. I was 
shown the state carriage, which is used onlv at the time of 



At the Mansion House. 527 

the inauguration. The panel paintings on it are worth over 
£200. The Lord Mayor wore the gold chain and the gold 
medal of his oiRce. They .are very heavy and expensive. 
Only three Mayors in the Kingdom are entitled to wear 
this insignia at the royal receptions, the Lord Mayors of 
London, Dublin and Edinburgh. 

Sir Richard Brady, Mr. Bearwood, the city architect, 
Barrister McCarthy, three priests, and others whose names I 
cannot recall, were among the guests. 

Lord Mayor Tallon had busied himself with Sir R. Brady 
and others in behalf of the sufferers in the West of Ireland, 
and as a result had raised £10,000. 

When we returned to the sitting-room, music and song 
whiled away the hours. The wife of the Lord Mayor and his 
daughter also played the piano. When Mr. Bearwood sang a 
song " The Friar," and sang it so well as to get an encore, 
I asked him what his reverend brother, the superior of the 
Carmelites, would say to that song. " Oh, he has heard me 
sing it," he said, " but he only smiles at me."^ 

I was asked about the prospect of an Anglo-American 
alliance. I said that I did not consider such an alliance 
probable, that the majority of the people in America did not 
w^ant it, and politicans seeking to promote it would find the 
subject a dangerous one. I told them that the United States 
had nothing to gain by such an alliance, and everything to 
lose, that it would be like the compact of the darkey stealing 
chickens, the States standing for the darkey. 

" Tell us about the darkey and the chickens," said several. 

" A darkey in the United States was caught stealing 
chickens and brought before the court. He was asked: 
'Have you a partner in this chicken business?' 'Boss, mus' 
I answer dat? ' ' Yes, you are obliged to answer.' ' Yes, sir, 
I has.' ' Is he a white man?' 'Yes, sir, he am.' 'What is 
his name?' 'Boss, mus' I answer dat?' 'Yes, you must 



528 Mr. John C. Campbell. 

answer.' ' His name, sir, is Henry Johnson, yes, sir.' ' What 
agreement had you made with him?' 'Well, sir, Mr. John- 
son, he agreed to give me two-fifths of all I stole myself.' 
' Well what has Mr. Johnson done to help you out of this 
scrape?' 'He has done nuffen, sir. He said that there was 
no recipricostity in this yare particular case, sir, and that I 
should be more keerful and not git cotched.' ' I think Mr. 
Johnson played you for a fool' ' It now looks something 
that way, sir.' ' What benefit were you to get from such 
partnership with Mr. Johnson?' 'Well, sir, such an alliance 
was reckoned highly honorable for a nigger; but, sir, if I 
gets out of this yare scrape, sir, I'll bus' the agreement with 
Mr. Johnson.' " There was a laugh at this unique partner- 
ship. But it was agreed that the story illustrated the con- 
ditions upon which England would wish to form an alliance 
with the United States against the rest of the world. 

Satisfaction was expressed with my views of the improb- 
ability of an Anglo-Saxon iVmerican alliance. 

After a very enjoyable evening, I took my departure from 
the Mansion House, delighted with .Irish hospitality as illus- 
trated by the Lord Mayor of Dublin. 

Many will recall with pleasure the visit since then of 
Mayor Tallon and Mr. Redmond, M. P., to this country on a 
collecting tour. 

Meeting friends from home is one of the most joyful ex- 
periences of the traveler in foreign lands. On Saturday 
night after my rambles through Dublin I was delightfully 
surprised at the hotel by meeting Mr. John C. Campbell, from 
Cleveland. He had crossed the Atlantic on the "Campania," 
and with Mr. Morris called at the Imperial to meet me. 
After a warm greeting he proceeded to satisfy my hunger 
for news from the people at home. I was pleased, among 
other things, to learn that letters in " The Universe " from 
the wanderer were being read with much interest. 



DONNYBROOK — A DIPLOMATIC " JARVY." 529 

On Sunday afternoon Mr. Campbell and I rode to several 
parts of Dublin and out to Donnybrook, the scene of the 
famous " Donnybrook Fair." But Donnybrook is a quiet 
place now, and there is not much to remind one of 
' ' Donnybrook capers, that bothered the vapors 
And drove away care." 

For quietness, good order and the suspension of all busi- 
ness on Sunday, Dublin appears to be a model city. 

In order to fulfill my engagement to dine with the Car- 
melite Fathers, at 5 p. m. on Sunday, I called a jaunting car 
and told the driver to take me quickly to the monastery in 
Blackfriars Street. The " jarvy" said: "I will, your Rever- 
ence." He whipped up his horse, and off we went at a great 
rate. After speeding along for two blocks or more, you 
may imagine my surprise when the driver leaned over and 
asked: "Where is the place, your Reverence?" 

"Why," I asked, "whither in the world are you driving? 
I am a stranger here. I certainly supposed you knew the 
place when you started off so readily." 

" Never a know I knew." 

I then realized that the object he had in view in driving 
off so quickly was to secure a customer first, and make out 
the place afterwards. I told him to drive across O'Connell's 
Bridge, and I thought that then I could direct him to the 
monastery. I recognized some of the landmarks, and found 
the place without much difficulty. On the way we passed 
the house in which the great Irish poet, Thomas Moore, 
was born. A bust of him in a niche on the wall marks the 
place. 

. My experience with the driver reminded me of an inci- 
dent related one evening while we were in camp at Jericho 
by Dr. Robinson, of Los Angeles, Cal. He said : " I had an 
engagement to dine with some friends on the outskirts of 
Dublin. Not having much time to spare, I asked for the best 



530 The Carmelite Fathers. 

horse on the stand. All agreed on one, and that I took. 
After hurrying along for half a mile, the horse fell down 
exhausted. I was angered by the delay and the deception. 
I told the driver that I had a mind to thrash him and go 
back to the stand and thrash every driver there for conspir- 
ing to deceive me. 'Have you such a notion?' said the 
jarvy. ' Yes, I have, and I can do it, too,' I said. He looked 
at me in apparent surprise and said : ' Arrah, you ought to 
thank God for giving you such a fine pair of fists.' Well," 
said the doctor, " that reply just took the mad and the 
starch all out of me, and I could not but laugh and set to 
work to help him get the horse up, even though I could not 
keep my appointment." 

The Carmelite Fathers have a very spacious church and 
a large congregation. During dinner and afterwards we had 
a very interesting talk about Ireland, America, the war and 
my trip around the world. 



Glontarf — Balbriggan — Famous Drogheda. 531 



CHAPTER XLIII. 

THE IRISH LAKE COUNTRY — FAMOUS DROGHEDA — BEAUTIFUL 

ENNISKILLEN— DEVENISH ISLAND — THE ROUND TOWER — 

THE FAMOUS IRISH SHRINE OF LOUGH DERG — THE 

STATIONS — LOUGH ERNE AND ITS LEGEND. 

Monday morning at 9 o'clock Mr. Campbell and I left 
Dublin. Though the excursion ticket of the week before 
was good for two days only, the superintendent kindly ex- 
tended the time for me. 

We passed Clontarf, a suburb of Dublin, which I had 
visited before. On its plains was fought the famous battle 
on Good Friday, 1014, between the Danes and the Irish, in 
which the latter were victorious, but lost their great leader, 
Brian Boru. As I looked out upon the scene of battle, I 
thought of the local orator in Cleveland who, back in the 
Fenian days, seeking to enthuse his hearers, exclaimed: 
''We will sink the ships of England as Brian Boru did the 
ironclads of the Danes on the plains of Glontarf." That was 
a "bully" speech. 

After a ride of twenty-two miles we reached Balbriggan, 
famous the world over for its- fine hosiery. By the way, it 
is well for shoppers to know that many dealers sell, unblush- 
ingly, counterfeit "Balbriggan" hosiery. In 1690 King 
William, after the unfortunate battle of Boyne, encamped 
his army at Balbriggan. 

For nearly thirty miles the railway runs along the coast, 
presenting some fine scenery to the tourists. 

In less than an hour and a half we reached Drogheda. 
Few places in Erin occupy such prominence in Irish history. 
The territory embraced by Drogheda, with Dublin, Wexford, 



532 DuNDALK — Beautiful Enniskillex. 

Waterford and Cork, constituted the " English Pole." At 
Drogheda was enacted the notorious Poynings Act, which 
forbade the Irish Parliament to make any laws without the 
approval of the English Privy Council. Drogheda was also 
the scene of a terrible massacre by Oliver Cromwell in 1649. 
James II. slept in the town the night before the battle of 
the Boyne. 

A fine stone viaduct of fifteen arches spans the river and 
the valley. We noticed steamers at the docks on the river. 
Drogheda is a good center from which to make excursions. 

Dundalk is fifty-four miles from Dublin. It is the chief 
town of County Louth, and is situated at the head of Dun- 
dalk Bay. It is an imporant railway and shipping center, 
and has a population of about twelve thousand. Dundalk 
has a fine railway station. 

After leaving Dundalk we passed through Inniskeen, 
Castleblaney and Clones, and arrived at Enniskillen, one 
hundred and fifteen miles from Dublin. 

Enniskillen is a fine town of about six thousand inhab- 
itants. It is beautifully situated amid the waters of Lough 
Erne, and is called the " Island Town." Like most of the 
towns in Ireland, it consists almost entirely of one long 
street. The street is tidy and business-like. We passed 
three banks on our way from the station and entered the 
Catholic Church. It is a large, fine stone building, con- 
structed in the Gothic style, and is very well furnished. 

As Mr. Campbell had spent his boyhood days not far 
from Enniskillen, he knew the neighborhood very well. We 
passed on down to the water's edge and took a row-boat to 
visit Devenish Island, two miles distant. The scenery of 
Lough Erne is very beautiful. I will have more to say of 
this farther on. 

From sorne distance ofi: we could see the Round Tower 
on Devenish Island. As I gazed for the first time upon a 



Devenish Island — The Round Tower. 



533 



monument so peculiar to Erin I thought of the poem of D. 

F. McCarthy: 

"The pillar towers of Ireland, how wondrously they stand, 

B}- the lakes and the rushing rivers, through valleys of our land; 

In niA'stic file, through the isle, the}' lift their heads sublime, 

These grey old pillar temples — these conquerors of time. 

Here was placed the holy chalice that held the sacred wine. 
And the gold cross from the altar, and the relics from the shrine, 
And the mitre shining brighter, with its diamonds from the East, 
And the crosier of the Pontiff, and the vestments of the priest." 




THE ROUND TOWER. 

Devenish Island rises gradually from the water. It is a 
green pasture, treeless, and in extent is about three-fourths 
by one-third of a mile. I stood in reverence and admiration 
before the ruins of the Abbey and the Old Round Tower, 
whose history goes back through the centuries. 



534 Amid the Ruins on Devenish Island. 

Mr. Campbell was amid the scenes of his childhood and 
recalled several incidents of those bygone days. 

We wandered through the ruins of the priory and among 
the graves in the old cemetery, and tried to decipher some 
of the inscriptions. Near the foot of the tower in the 
priory, is a stone, inscribed as follows: 

" Mathew O'Dughagan 

did this work. 

Bartholomew O'Flauragan, 

Prior of Devenish, A. D. 1449." 

We found the grave of Patrick Cassidy, 1722; of Ter- 
rence Kernan, 1743, and of Rev. Henry Forde, D. D., P. P. 
■of Enniskillen, June 14, 1793. 

The Round Tower has been recapped and carefully re- 
stored, and is now regarded as one of the finest in Ireland. 
It is about eighty-five or ninety feet high. There is a rich 
cornice around the base of the cap, with sculptured heads 
beneath. The door is ten feet from the ground. 

, St. Molaisse. who died in the Sixth Century, was the 
founder of Devenish. 

We rowed leisurely back to the town admiring the beau- 
tiful scenery on the way. 

When we reached Enniskillen we were hungry. Being on 
the lookout we saw the sign, " Temperance Hotel." We went 
in for lunch and were ushered upstairs. The woman in charge 
said to us: "The cold meat is all done." We wanted it 
done. But " all done " meant it is all gone. We intimated 
that if the raw meat wasn't done, we would like to have it 
done. While waiting for the meat to " be done " we read 
some framed resolutions on the wall, and then discovered 
that we were in the house of Mr. Liddie, the master of the 
Orange Lodge. We met none of the Orangemen at the 
hotel. 

We visited the loftv monument erected in honor of Sir 



IRVINGSTOWN. 535 

Lowry Cole, who distinguished himself in the Peninsular war 
as the leader of the Enniskillen troops. The monument is 
on the summit of a hill near the station. We ascended over 
a hundred steps to the top of the shaft. From it we got a 
magnificent view of the surrounding country and its varied 
and beautiful scenery. Standing in the County of Fermanagh 
we could see the Blue Stack Mountains of Donegal, beyond 
Loch Erne, and the counties of Leitrim, Tyrone, Monaghan 
and Cavan. The grounds have been beautified and converted 
into a small park. 

We left the " Island Town" and got to Irvingstown by 
the way of Bundoran Junction in the evening. We took 
supper at Mr. Lee's place, and then on one of his fine jaunt- 
ing cars we drove out about three miles to the home of Mr. 
Campbell's brother. The ride behind a good horse and 
through a fine rolling country in the quiet of the evening 
was very enjoyable. 

I need not describe the affectionate meeting of the 
brothers. I was introduced to Mr. and Mrs. Campbell, and 
met the healthy, happy children in their new home. The 
children at first were rather shy in the presence of the 
stranger. 

After a pleasant visit and with a warm invitation to 
renew it, I returned on the jaunting car to Irvingstown, leav- 
ing Mr. Campbell to enjoy the company of his brother and 
the family. I had a very pleasant ride back to Mr. Lee's 
place. 

The priest of Irvingstown, hearing that I was in town, 
called, and we had a long and pleasant talk on matters of 
Church and State, both in Ireland and America. 

After a good night's rest I arose early the next morning 
and walked through the village of Irvingstown. I found it 
a neat, tidy place, but some of the houses are too squatty 
and too close for much comfort, but evidently the occupants 



536 A Noted Place of Pilgrimage. 

had not much choice in the matter. The cottages consti- 
tute a continuous white building. The scenery about the 
town is very fine. 

I found Mr. Campbell and his brother at Mr. Lee's on my 
return from the stroll. We started at 9:30 a. m. for Lough 
Derg, or " St. Patrick's Purgatory." 

Mr. John C. Campbell and I left the train at the small 
town of Pettigo. The streets were decorated with banners 
and bunting in preparation for an Orange celebration. We 
were in the North of Ireland, and hence might expect to meet 
evidences emphasizing the presence of the followers of King 
William. The jewel of faith has been polished and bright- 
ened in the North by constant friction with these " contrary" 
neighbors in that section of Erin. 

After an enjoyable ride of five miles on a jaunting car, 
and then going some distance on a private roadway, we 
reached the edge of the lake. The only building on the side 
of Lough Derg where we took the boat was a shed-like 
structure to shelter those waiting for the ferry. Soon the 
boat came, laden with those who had just finished the 
Stations in "St. Patrick's Purgatory." They were a well- 
dressed, happy and good-looking lot of people. We took our 
places in the boat and were rowed over to the island, nearly 
a half mile away. It may be well just here to tell something 
of Lough Derg and its pilgrimages. 

St Patrick is credited with having passed several seasons 
of prayer and penance on the " Holy Island " in Lough Derg. 
Many other Saints and Anchorites found there a place of 
seclusion and prayer, and hence it has always been esteemed 
the most notable pilgrimage of the Irish Church. Its pen- 
ances, mitigated as they are, find no parallel at other shrines, 
as far as I know. 

Lough Derg has been the center of persecution and pro- 
scription. Special acts of Parliament were passed for its 



Lough Derg. 537 

suppression and total extinction. Primate Hugh McMahon, 
writing of Lough Derg in 1714, says: 

•' Whilst everywhere else throughout the kingdom the eccle- 
siastical functions have ceased by reason of the prevailing persecu- 
tion, in this land, as if it were placed in another orb, the exercise 
of religion is free and public, which is to be ascribed to a special 
favor of Divine Providence, and to the merits of St. Patrick." 




STATION ISLAND, LOUGH DERG. 

Lough Derg is a body of reddish water, about six miles 
long, and at its widest part four miles across. It is sur- 
rounded by a chain of mountains some distance off, and con- 
tains a number of islands. The aspect of the place is severe 
and lonely, and well adapted to a penitential retreat. 

" So like a temple doth it stand 

The heart's first impulse is to pra5-er." 

The ferryman, Mr. Flood, has to pay an annual rental to 
the landlord, Mr. Leslie. Passengers are taxed eight pence 
for the round trip across the lake. 



538 Station Island — The Stations. 

When we arrived at the island we noticed a number of 
penitents, barefooted and bareheaded, making the Stations. 
We were warmly received hy Father Gallagher, the priest in 
charge. His permanent location was at the Monaghan Ca- 
thedral. Mr. Campbell was conducted to the hospice, while I 
was received as the guest of the priest. When I came out 
I noticed that Mr. Campbell had entered at once upon the 
Stations. That can be done only by those who go to the 
island fasting. If not fasting, they must wait until the next 
day before beginning the exercises, and then be fasting. 
Station Island contains less than one acre of ground. About 
four thousand penitents visit it in the season from June to 
August 15. 

Father Gallagher gave me some information about the ex- 
ercises, and some I got from the posted regulations. I will 
give the readers some points, that they may learn what the 
pilgrims who seek " the one thing necessary" must do during 
their stay: 

The Stations commence with a visit to the Blessed Sacrament 
in Si. Patrick's Church or Chapel. 

The pilgrim, barefooted, then proceeds to "St. Patrick's Cross," 
near the same church, and, kneeling", repeats there one Pater, one 
Ave and Creed. 

Next he goes to " vSt. Brigid's Cross," where, kneeling, he 
recites three Paters, three Aves and the Creed once. 

Then, standing with his back to the cross and arms out- 
stretched, he thrice renounces the devil, the world and the flesh. 

He then makes seven circuits of St. Patrick's Church, repeating 
in each circuit one decade of the Rosary and adding a Creed to 
the last decade. 

He next proceeds to the Penitential Cell or "Bed" nearest to 
St. Mary's Church, called "St. Brigid's Bed," and sa}'S three 
Paters, three Aves and the Creed, whilst thrice making the out- 
side circuit of this Bed. The same prayers are repeated while 
kneeling outside the entrance of the Bed; the same repeated 
while making three circuits of it on the inside; and the same 
prayers are repeated while kneeling at the cross inside the Bed. 



The Stations. 539 

The same penitential exercises are performed snccessively at 
St. Brendan's Bed, St. Catharine's and St. Cohimba's. 

Around the large penitential Bed six circuits are then made on 
the outside, while repeating nine Paters, nine Aves and the Creed 
once. The pilgrim then kneels at the first entrance of this Bed 
and recites three Paters, three Aves and the Creed. He next 
repeats three Paters, three Aves and the Creed, while making the 
inside circuit of it; and again three Paters, three Aves and a 
Creed, kneeling in the center. He now proceeds to the second 
entrance of this Bed (which entrance is the one nearer to St. 
Patrick's Church), and, kneeling, recites three Paters, three Aves 
and the Creed. The same prayers are recited whilst making the 
inner circuit of it; and the same krieeling in the center. 

The pilgrim then goes to the water's edge, where five Paters, 
five Aves and one Creed are repeated, standing, and recites the 
same prayers, kneeling. 

After this he returns to St. Patrick's Cross, from which he had 
first set out; and there says, on his knees, one Pater, one Ave 
and the Creed once. 

He then enters St. Patrick's Church, where the Station is con- 
cluded, by saying five Paters, five Aves and a Creed for the Pope's 
intention. 

Three Stations, with the foregoing prayers, are performed each 
dav, each station being usually followed by five decades of the 
Rosary of the Blessed Virgin. 

The pilgrim enters " Prison " on the evening of the second 
day, by reciting the prayers of each station as already given. 

The second day of the pilgrimage each one goes to Confession. 

In addition to the foregoing exercises, the pilgrim assists each 
da}' at morning prayer. Mass, meditation, visit to the Blessed 
Sacrament, evening prayer, sermon and Benediction of the 
Blessed Sacrament. 

Any information regarding the fast, etc., may be easily 
obtained on the island. 

The Station opens each year on the 1st of June, and 
closes on the festival of the Assumption of the Blessed Vir- 
gin, the 15th of August. 

The pilgrim is to perform the exercises barefooted, and 
in addition the men are to be bareheaded. The fast is 



540 The Regulations. 

known as the '' black fast." The food consists of bread and 
water or black tea. When the water is boiled then it is 
called " wine." So a " glass of wine " means a glass of the 
lake water after boiling. There is no pledge against Lough 
Derg wine. Sugar is only allowed by dispensation. 

The vigil is to be performed in St. Patrick's Chapel or 
'' Prison" from 6 p. m. until 6 p. m. the next day. During 
the twenty-four hours indulgence in sleep is not permitted. 
Here is part of the time table which I took from the copy 
on the wall in the chapel: 

p. M. — 6:oo, Evening praj^er, sermon, Benediction; 9:00, \Va3- 
of the Cross; 10:00, singing 01 Litanies and Hymns; 10:30, spir- 
itual reading; 10:45, relaxation, or free time; 11:00, singing" 
Litanies, etc.; 11:30, spiritual reading; 12:00, midnight, First Sta- 
tion commenced. 

A. M. — 1:15, free time; 1:30, Second Station commenced; 2:45, 
free time; 3:00, Third Station commenced; 4:15, free time; 5:00, 
Community Mass. 

The Stations or "Beds" are circular, and the pebbles 
and small stones are sharp — sharp for the bare feet. They 
are surrounded by small embankments. The Stations are 
about twelve feet in diameter. 

The total charges for three days' board and accommoda- 
tions and service are two shillings six pence. For priests 
making a week's ecclesiastical retreat the charges are not to 
exceed ten shillings. Reflect on that economy. It is evi- 
dent that money is no object. 

The lake abounds in trout. Father Gallagher is an ex- 
pert fisherman. He could manage the boat, the lines and 
the flies with dexterity. He asked me if I had had any 
experience in trout fishing. I had never tried my hand at 
that kind of fishing. He then said probably I would not 
catch any. I had fished years ago in America sitting still and 
watching the cork. But on Lough Derg the boat was ever 
on the move, propelled by the men rowing, and the flies had 



A Disciple op Isaak Walton. 



541 



to be kept skipping along the surface to imitate the natural 
fly so as to entrap the trout. Soon Father Gallagher got 
a trout that shone like burnished gold as it circled through 
the' water. He added two more while I was still a mere 
fisher. Suddenly there was a commotion at my end of the 
boat. I had hooked one as big as his three. How the trout 
fought and struggled as I began to wind it in ! Soon the 




ON THE ROAD FROM LOUGH DERG. • 

scoop was placed under it and the fish lifted into the boat. 
There was more fight in that one fish than in a dozen that 
pull the cork under water. Father Gallagher got two more 
and I another. We then adjourned, having _ caught enough 
for supper and breakfast. I was not a little elated when 
Father Gallagher said: '' I declare, your two are as heavy 
■ as my five." Twice more we went out, but I alone caught 
the fish, while Father Gallagher had the experience. 

We finally bade adieu to the Holy Island. As the pil- 



542 Lough Erne. 

grims pass over the lake they generally sing the farewell 
hymn, which consists of six verses. I give the first verse : 

" Oh! fare thee well, Lough Derg; shall I ever see you more? 

My heart is filled with sorrow to leave th}' sainted shore. 

Until life's days have passed away, no pleasure can beguile 

M}' thoughts from often turning back to thy sacred isle." 

We overtook one of the pilgrims with a kodak. He took 
a shot at Mr. Campbell and myself in the jaunting car. He 
said if it came out well he would send me a copy. 

When we reached Pettigo we took a train for a ride of 
twenty-seven miles to Beleek, famous for the finest china, 
manufactured. We were kindly showm through the pottery, 
and the process and the work were explained to us. We 
viewed the picturesque rapids, the source of the mighty 
water power from the outlet of Lough Erne. We called at 
the priest's dwelling, but he was out of town. The stone 
church is large and finely situated. 

From Beleek we went to Bundoran, situated by the ocean, 
and one of the finest watering places in the North of Ireland. 
It consists of one street about a mile in length. 

From Bundoran, we went by train to Castlecaldwell, where 
we took the steamer " Lady of the Lake " for a ride of over 
twenty miles on the famous Lough Erne. 

When Mr. .John C. Campbell and I boarded the pretty 
little steamer, "The Lady of the Lake," at Castlecaldwell, 
we anticipated with pleasure the ride of twenty miles or 
more on Lough Erne to Enniskillen. Mr. Campbell informed 
me that in many of the songs and stories of the North of 
Ireland Lough Erne is called " Saimear," He referred to the 
first verse in " O'Donnell Abu," written in 1597 by J. McCann: 
" Proudl}^ the note of the trumpet is sounding, 

Loudly the war cries arise on the gale. 
Fleetly the steed b}^ Loc Snilig is bounding. 
To join the thick squadrons in Saimear's green vale." 

The name "Saimear" was changed to Erna or Erne on 



The Legend of Lough Erne. 543 

account of the drowning in its waters of Queen Meva's 
favorite maid, Erna. Magennis' poem relates to the fact: 

Oueen Meva mourns her favorite maid, loved Erna, absent long. 

She cannot look on nobles fine, or list her minstrel's song; 

On Saiinear's banks when night comes on, she walks and weeps 

in vain, 
Ivoved Erna sleeps beneath the wave; she cannot come again. 

Young Erna was the sweetest maid did ever vision bless; 
Beside her pined the blushing rose, she shamed its loveliness; 
She moved, a golden beam of joy, a star to gild the west, 
The light of love was in her e3'e and Heaven her bosom blessed. 

She bathed in Saimear's silver lake, and sank to rise no more; 

Love sighed upon the fatal deep while Pity wept on shore; 

In mourning sank that evening sun, and dimmed the light of 

June, 
While shone in sadness on the lake the melancholy moon. 

Lament for Erna, ever lost, all hearts that pity know, 

Ye virgins chant her spotless fame by lovely fAssaroe; 

" I little thought," Oueen Meva said, " untimely and so soon, 

My friend should die and I should weep beneath the silver moon. 

" No more shall Erna grace my court, or charm in banquet hall. 
Or yield her Queen those winning smiles which sought my nobles 

all; 
Some spirit loved the blooming maid, and bound with magic spell, 
Took a queen in fairj'-land or jTir-an-oge to dwell. 

" Ye mountains and ye hills that shade loved Saimear's silver lake. 
Ye silent are and lonely now, ye mourn for Erna's sake; 
Her name ye sighing zephyrs bear, ye bards her fame prolong 
Until 'tis known o'er *Ban-ba fair and lives in future song. 

" And Saimear, dear thy banks shall be to feeling and to fame, 
The fate of Meva's much loved maid shall change thy ancient 

name. 
No isles like thine shall bloom so green, no flowers spring so 

soon, 
And Saimear shall be Erna called while shines the silver moon." 

fAssaroe, the ancient name of Bally shannon, at foot ol Lough Erne. 
iTir-an-oge, the paradise of the pagan Irish. 
*Ban-ba, one of the ancient names of Ireland. 



544 "The County of the Lakes." 

Fermanagh, the "County of the Lakes," abounds in 
loughs. In the time of Elizabeth, it was divided between 
two powerful sects, the McManuses and the Maguires. It is 
related that when the Lord Deputy sent to inform the chief 
of the latter that he was about to send a sheriff into his 
territory, Maguire answered that " Her Majesty's officer 
would be received, but he would like to know how much the 
damage would be in case the sheriff lost his life on the 
visit." The sheriff must have had business elsewhere, as he 
did not visit Maguire. 

It would appear to me that the people "at home" and 
the tourist from abroad, either do not appreciate or do not 
know many of the beauties of Erin. After traversing Lough 
Erne and having made the circuit of the world, I can com- 
mend what Mrs. S. C. Hall writes of Lough Erne and its 
vicinity. I transcribe her words: 

" Travel where you will in this singularly beautiful neighbor- 
hood, lovers of the picturesque will have rare treats at every stop. 
It is impossible to exaggerate in describing the surpassing loveli- 
ness of the whole locality. How many thousands there are who, 
if just ideas could be conveyed to them of its attractions, would 
make their annual tour hither instead of up the hacknej^ed and 
soddened Rhine, infinitely less rich in natural graces, far inferior 
in the studies of character it yiel'ds, and much less abundant in 
all enjoyment that can recompense the traveler. Nothing in 
Great Britain, perhaps nothing in Europe, can surpass the beauty 
of this lake." 

Mrs. Hall says much, but much can be justly written of 
Lough Erne. The islands are said to number the days of 
the year. They are of all sizes, from a few feet to many 
acres in extent. All are green and productive. On some of 
them you can see sheep and cattle grazing and houses peep- 
ing through the inviting groves. At Tully Castle the lough 
is nine miles wide. 

As we passed Devenish Island and approached Ennis- 



Castle Coole. 545 

killen, the lough narrowed and brought its green, sloping 
shores nearer to us. About a mile and a half from the town 
we passed the Royal Portora School, most beautifully sit- 
uated. Castle Coole is about half a mile nearer to the town. 
The mansion is classical in style and the grounds are beauti- 
fully laid out and well kept. Castle Coole is the residence 
of the Earl of Belmore. The ivy-clad ruins of an old castle 
tell the story of other days. 

As we passed through Enniskillen I noticed on store 
fronts a number of signs indicating that the name of the 
proprietors was " Maguire." The name appears to be spelt 
in this way in the County of Fermanagh. 

Mr. Campbell and I parted at the station of Enniskillen, 
with an agreement to meet again at Derry. He returned to 
Irvingstown, while I proposed to make my way to Down- 
patrick to visit the grave of St. Patrick, St. Brigid and St. 
Columbkille. 



456 Clones- — An Interview. 



CHAPTER XLIV. 

AT THE TOMB OF IRELAND'S GREAT APOSTLES — ATTRACTIONS 
EN ROUTE — BELFAST — CENTER OF ORANGEISM — DOWN- 
PATRICK — THE NEGLECTED GRAVE IN A PROTESTANT 
CEMETERY — BISHOP GILMOUR'S GENEROSITY. 

I alighted at the quaint old town of Clones, which has a 
population of twenty-five hundred. It is situated on the side 
and crest of a small hill. I walked up the main street to the 
" Diamond " or market place. I was rather surprised to see 
three young women riding bicycles up the rather steep hill. 
By the way, the bicycle rider is frequently met in Ireland, 
and the roads are so very good that they invite to easy spins 
amid pleasant scenes. 

The attraction at Clones is the Old Cross on the " Dia- 
mond." It is about fifteen feet high and stands on a square 
base. It is perfect in form, and some of the sculptures on 
this ancient relic are fairly well preserved. There are 
designs of Adam and Eve, with the serpent coiled around the 
tree. The sacrifice of Isaac is also depicted. 

Just after leaving Clones for Monaghan, thirteen miles 
away, I asked the only fellow passenger: "Is that the 
Catholic Church there on the hill?" 

He hesitated, but finally said: "I believe it is." 

I asked: "Are you a Catholic?" 

"Why would you think that? I might be a Presby- 
terian." , 

I suspected that he was a Catholic, and said to him: "I 
am a priest. I am from America." At the time I wore a 
light-colored mackintosh, on account of the frequent showers. 

"Ah! I don't know about that." he said. 



MONAGHAN. 547 

/'Well, you can notice my Roman collar as one indica- 
tion." 

" Ah yes, but there does be detectives about here that 
puts on those collars often to deceive us." 

This was news to me. However, I did not try to prove 
my identity any farther. 




SNAPSHOTS. 

At Monaghan I met two priests and went to talk to 
them. My companion had also left the train. He looked 
on from a distance and then followed me to the hotel. 

" Father, excuse me;" he said, "but upon my word, I had 
my doubts until I saw you and our priests so friendly, and 
heard them ask you to come up to the Cathedral." 

Early in the morning I walked through the town and 
made my way to the Cathedral. It is situated just outside 
of the town on a slight eminence in the midst of about ten 
acres of well-kept grounds. The lodge keeper opened the 
doors for me. The building is of stone and constructed in 



548 . Armagh. 

the Gothic style. It is complete in all its appointments, and 
neat and bright. The altars, the railing and the pulpit are of 
marble. I should judge that the building must have cost 
not less than $200,000. A fine pastoral residence stands 
near the rear of the Cathedral. There are a number of fine 
marble statues over the portals, about the building and on 
pedestals throughout the grounds. 

Monaghan is a trim and business-like looking town of, I 
should judge, about five thousand inhabitants. 

My next stop was at Armagh, sixteen miles from Mona- 
ghan. The large, stone Gothic Cathedral, situated on an 
eminence, is visible from all parts of the town. I approached 
with reverence a spot consecrated by the presence of St. 
Patrick and St. Malachi and their many saintly successors. 
We are told that in the year 455, St. Patrick received from 
a wealthy chief named Daire, a tract of land for the erection 
of a Cathedral on a hill in the neighborhood of the residence 
of the Kings of Ulster. Armagh became the ecclesiastical 
metropolis of Ireland. 

The grounds around the Cathedral comprise about twelve 
acres. They are very well kept. Wide gravel walks, some 
six hundred feet long, lead up to the noble structure, which 
crowns the hill and commands the town. I met a large 
number of well-dressed people coming from Mass. 

I found the church very spacious, but it is evidently older 
and not so well-kept as the Monaghan Cathedral. I called 
at the residence to pay my respects to Cardinal Logue. His 
Eminence had gone to visit a neighboring Bishop. However, 
I met one of the priests, who is a professor in the college on 
the Cathedral grounds. All the students were enjoying their 
vacation. I calculated that the Cathedral would accommo- 
date three thousand people. 

There is evidently considerable business and thrift in the 
town, which has, I should judge, a population of ten thousand. 



An Armagh Waiter. 549 

At breakfast at the hotel I was first seated at the table 
in the dining-room. After waiting long enough to have the 
order filled, the waiter came and directed me to the " coffee 
room." He then wanted to know what I wanted for break- 
fast. I told him that the change of rooms had made no 
change in my order. " Well, we have no mutton chops this 
morning. Will you have some eggs?" I assented. After 
some time he came, but in swinging around my chair the 
waiter dropped one of the eggs, as I easily knew from hear- 
ing it fall. He made no acknowledgment of the accident. I 
wondered what would be the outcome. After a time he went 
aut and quietly returned and the egg was secretly lifted and 
put on my plate. 

" When the hen laid that egg she must have been on the 
perch," I remarked. 

"Why?" asked the waiter. 

" It had a fall." 

" Maybe so, sir," he answered. 

" You remind me of a waiter in Boston," I said. 

"How so?" 

" I was there when he came to the table and asked a 
guest: 'Did you order these chops, sir?' 'I did.'- 'Oh! I 
thought it was a younger man.' ' Well,' said the guest, ' I 
was younger when I ordered, them .' " The Armagh waiter 
left me, and all was over but the bill. 

Belfast is thirty-five miles from Armagh. I arrived in 
the city in the afternoon, having passed through Portadown, 
Lurgan, Lisburn and Lough Neagh in the distance. Without 
delay, I began to take in the sights of Belfast, noted for its 
linen factories, ship-building and commercial importance. 

I was quite busy for a number of hours in going about 
Belfast. The city is lively and prosperous. It has grown 
wonderfully, especially for a European city, in the past fifty 
years. The population of Belfast is about two hundred and 



550 



Belfast. 



seventy-five thousand. The streets are wide and the build- 
ings well constructed, and the bustle about the place re- 
minded me somewhat of an American city. 

The linen industry is one of the chief features of Belfast. 
It was helped, strange to state, by the selfishness of Eng- 
land. The English Parliament of 1698 induced King William 




STREET IN BELFAST. 

III. to use his influence to suppress the woolen trade in Ire- 
land, as it injured the trade in England. As a result, the 
linen trade was encouraged and Belfast became its center. 

I was struck by the number and size of the linen mills. 
The York Street Spinning Company employs three thousand 
men in its linen mills, and indirectly gives employment to 
twenty thousand more. It has generally $500,000 worth of 



A Protestant Stronghold. 



551 



flax on hand. One hundred thousand acres of land, mostly 
in the vicinity of Belfast, are used in producing flax. Thus 
the linen mills are independent of foreign production. 

Belfast is a large ship-building center. The largest ship 
ever constructed was under way when I was there. Other 




street scene in BELFAST. 



industries are iron works, boot and shoe factories, the manu- 
facture of chemicals, flour milling, etc. 

Belfast is a Protestant stronghold. The population is at 
least two-thirds Protestant. However, there are six or eight 
fine Catholic Churches in the city. It is the Episcopal See 
of Down and Connor. Bishop Henry was the Ordinary. 



552 Ait Orange Parade. 

The Cathedral, dedicated to St. Malachi, is a fine struc- 
ture on Upper Alfred Street. However, it is surpassed in 
architectural magnificence by St. Peter's Catholic Church, 
which is the handsomest ecclesiastical structure in Belfast. 
It is a Gothic building. The west front has a central door- 
way containing a fine sculpture of the angels appearing to 
St. Peter. It has two spire-crowned towers of great height 
and beauty. 

St. Malachi's College is for Catholic boys. It accommo- 
dates both day scholars and boarders. 

Ulster Hall holds four thousand people. The building is 
beautified by six Corinthian columns. It is furnished with a 
fine pipe organ. 

After supper in the Imperial Hotel I heard the music of a 
fife and drum. Knowing that I was in the center of Orange- 
ism I hastened to the door. Down the street there came a 
motley and apparently disorganized crowd of perhaps four 
hundred men and boys. Without any formation they oc- 
cupied the street from curb to curb, and carried their 
banners as they marched to the place of meeting. As they 
walked by I could not but reflect upon the great strife that 
has for centuries marked the meeting of the Orange and 
Green in the Emerald Isle. 

" Rusty the swords our fathers unsheathed, 

William and James are turned to cla}' ; 
Long did we till the wrath they bequeathed; 
Red was the crop and bitter the pay. 
Freedom fled us ! 
Knaves misled us ! 
I'nder the feet of the foemen we lay." 

Were Orange and Green united, at least in national 
affairs, it would not be long until Orange and (ireen would 
carry the day. 

Before leaving home I was requested, in case I reached 
Belfast, to call on an old lady who had adult grandchildren 



Mistaken Identity. 553 

living in Cleveland. I had a good deal of difficulty in finding 
her. The curious and very indefinite directions I received 
from people in Belfast would fill a chapter. I finally found 
the house. When I got inside the old lady exclaimed: "Oh, 
Father, but I am glad to see you." 

" But you. do not know me." 

" Well, I know you are a priest, at any rate." 

You may imagine how surprised and delighted she was to 
hear from her grandchildren in America. 

Near Belfast are some very high hills. Cave Hill, about 
two miles from the center of the city, is one thousand one 
hundred and eighty-eight feet high. It gets its name from 
the fact that three natural caves penetrate it. There is a 
very fine view from the top of Cave Hill. Nearby is Carrick- 
fergus Bay, into which the American Commodore Paul Jones 
sailed in 1778, and after a fierce fight captured the British 
sloop-of-war Drake. There was not much talk in those days 
of an Anglo-American alliance. 

While waiting at the station to take the train for Down- 
patrick a portly, well-kept, florid complexioned man of about 
fifty-five or sixty years of age approached me, and extending 
his hand, said: 

"How are you? I am glad to see you. AflPairs are 
going all right for us." 

" You probably mistake me for someone else. I do not 
know you," I said. 

"Oh, well," said. he, "we are all related in Adam, I 
know you are one of our own,' anyhow. Come in here and 
we will have something to warm us up." 

" I don't drink," I answered. 

" Well," he replied, " if you do no worse you'll be not so 
bad." 

My grey ulster, worn as a protection from the frequent 
rains, had evidently led that Orangeman to take me for an 



554 DowNPATRicK — The Grave of the Saints. 

English clergyman. I took the train and he, no doubt, took 
something else. 

After passing through Comber and Ballynahinch Junction 
I arrived, in about an hour, at Downpatrick, made famous 
from the fact that it is the burial place of St. Patrick, St. 
Brigid and St. Columbkille. 

Downpatrick has a population of about four thousand. 
It is a nice town, but rather hilly. The streets rise steeply 
from a common center. 

I told the jaunting car driver to take me to the tomb of 
St. Patrick, St. Brigid and St. Columbkille. He drove at 
once to the Episcopal Cathedral, which is about half a mile 
from the station. He said when we got to the cemetery: 
" You will find the tomb there in the center." 

I went into the cemetery through the long wet grass. I 
looked for a grand towering monument to mark the resting 
place of these three eminent Saints. I saw none. After- 
looking for some time I went back and asked in bewilder- 
ment : 

" Where is the tomb? " 

"It is there in the center of the graveyard," he said. 

The cemetery occupies only about half an acre. I went 
back, and after looking long I found an oval, but loose grave 
mark, about one foot high, inscribed: "Here are buried St. 
Patrick, St. Brigid and St. Columbkille." 

I fell on my knees in the wet grass, but for a time I was 
too amazed to pray — amazed at the humble, almost unmarked, 
and neglected, grave of the three Saints so dear to the 
hearts of the children of Erin at home, and to those scat- 
tered over the world. How was it possible, I asked, that 
the grateful, generous Irish people had so shockingly neg- 
lected the last resting places of their glorious Patron Saints? 

I took a handful of earth and plucked a few shrubs from 
the grave, and went sadly back to the car. I told the driver 



The Recently-Erected Marking Stone. 



555 



with some indignation that the condition of the grave of her 
Patron Saints reflected no credit on Downpatrick, or upon 
the Catholic people of Ireland. 

'' True for you, your Reverence," was all he said. 

I went into the church beside the cemetery. I found 
that it was the Protestant Cathedral, confiscated and taken 
from the Catholics. It began to dawn upon me that possibly 




ST. PATRICK'S GRAVE AND ITS PECULIAR MONUMENT. 



the Catholics were not free to erect a monument over the 
grave of the three great Irish Saints. The see was estab- 
lished by St. Patrick. He also founded a monastery, which 
finally became the burial place of himself, St. Brigid and 
St. Columbkille. The Cathedral was destroyed by the Danes. 



556 Bishop Gilmour's Generous Offhr. 

The edifice which replaced it was burnt by Edward Brewer 
and Lord Deputy Grey, in 1538. The present church was 
constructed in 1790. It is beautifully situated on a hill. 
Dundrum, about five miles distant, is said to be the place 
where St. Patrick first landed when brought as a slave to 
Ireland at the. age of sixteen. 

After leaving the Cathedral, I directed the driver to 
take me to the Catholic Church. I found the pastor to be 
Father O'Kane, an affable old clergyman of about sixty-five 
years of age. I was not with him long until I brought up the 
neglect of the tomb of Ireland's Patron Saints. 

" Well, it does look bad," he said, " but it is hardly our 
fault, or the fault of the Irish people. The cemetery is in 
the hands of the Protestants. They would not permit us to 
erect a monument there. Even if they did, I fear that it 
would soon be destroyed, so intense is the bigotry of the 
Orangemen in this neighborhood." 

''Could not some arrangement be made," I asked, "by 
which permission and protection for a suitable monument 
could be procured? I am sure that ample funds could be 
obtained, because the object would eloquently appeal to the 
Irish people at home and abroad." 

" I have no misgivings about the funds," he said. " Some 
few years ago, there was a Bishop here from America who 
was about as indignant concerning the absence of a monu- 
ment as you are. He said: 'If you start a fund for a 
proper memorial for St. Patrick, St. Brigid and St. Col- 
umbkille, I will contribute $500.' " 

When I asked the name of the Bishop, imagine my 
pleasure and surprise when I learned that he was none other 
than our lamented Bishop Gilmour. 

How we are inclined to be ruled almost unconsciously b}^ 
prejudice and to judge rashly the principles and motives of 
men! I had heard Bishop Gilmour misrepresented, even in a 



The Downpatrick Cathedral. 



557 



National Convention, and was obliged to defend him on the 
floor, and to repel the charge that he was anti-Irish. I 
could do so on his record. He sometimes had to oppose men 
and measures, but his opposition was based on more solid 
and commendable ground than national antipathy. Those 
who shape their conduct on national lines are narrow-minded, 
and never rise to the level of an exalted position. The 




THE CATHEDRAL, 



hardest blow may sometimes come from a true friend. 
Perhaps I can better illustrate this by a little story: 

On one occasion when the ice was floating out of the 
North River, New York, the cry was raised from the ferry 
boat: "A man overboard!" The passengers rushed to the 
side of the vessel and saw a man struggling in despair amid 
the ice. Suddenly a man sprang into the river and swam to 



558 Ax Empty Jail. 

the drowning man. When he reached him he struck the 
struggling man a stunning blow in the face. A cry of 
fierce anger arose from the passengers. The rescuer then 
reached out and took the drowning and nearly senseless man 
by the coat collar and managed to keep him safe until a boat 
was lowered and both were rescued. When they were taken 
aboard the ferry-boat, angry men gathered about the rescuer 
and with clenched fists demanded: "Why did you strike the 
drowning man?" He answered: "You men are angry. 
You remained safe on board when he was struggling for his 
life amid the floating ice. I risked mine for his. I struck 
him to save him. Had I not stunned him he would have 
taken hold of me, and both of us would have perished. Give 
some credit for true friendship to one who makes a sacrifice 
for another." 

Since my visit to Downpatrick a peculiar monument has 
been placed over the grave of the Saints. It consists of a 
large rock, properly inscribed. A cut of it is here pre- 
sented. But the proper monument is yet to come. 

Father O'Kane kindly took a walk around the town with 
me and showed me several points of interest. 

The jail, as in many other towns, is the finest and most 
expensive building in the co!rporation. The jail there must 
have cost about $250,000, but it is empty. Where can you 
find, outside of Ireland, a jail of that size empty? Statistics 
prove that Ireland stands high on the scale of morality. I 
took pains in many places to inquire on this subject. In one 
county seat, during my visit, the judges found on their 
quarterly session that the only charge was that a certain 
plaintiff was cheated out of a chicken worth a shilling. The 
charge was not sustained. Yet the English Government has, 
in addition to its many barracks for soldiers, some twelve 
thousand armed constabulary stationed through the country, 
a heavy and an unnecessary burden on the people. The 



Antrim — Lough Neagh. 559' 

Queen on her recent visit would have conferred a favor on 
Ireland by sending the constabulary in a body to the Trans- 
vaal. 

I forgot while speaking to Father O'Kane lo ask if the 
Irish-Turkish officer, whom I had met in Cairo, had returned 
to Downpatrick, as he had told me was his intention. 

I returned from Downpatrick to Belfast in the evening. 

Six o'clock in the morning found me the only passenger 
in the cab from the hotel in Belfast to the station. How- 
ever, quite a number of passengers boarded the train. 

We arrived at x\ntrim about 7 o'clock. That neat town 
of about fifteen hundred inhabitants is about twenty-two 
miles from Belfast. Lough Neagh, the largest lake- in the 
British Isles, is not far from the town. The lake is from 
eighteen to twenty miles long and about twelve miles wide. 
While the largest part of Lough Neagh is in County Antrim,^ 
it also extends into County Tyrone, County Armagh and 
County Down. 

Fairies and fairy tales occupy much space in the folk lore 
of the Irish people. It is said that at the end of the First 
Century the place now covered by the waters of Lough 
Neagh was inhabited. The people possessed a fairy well. 
On one occasion the fairy well or fountain was accidentally 
left uncovered. Consequently it overflowed until the present 
lake was formed. The people will tell you to this day 
that the fishermen see the lofty and slender round towers of 
the former site beneath the waters. Moore has embalmed 
this belief in the well-known lines: 

" On Lough Neagh's banks as the fisherman strays, 

When the clear cold eve's declining, 
He sees the round towers of other days 

In the waves beneath him shining." 

It might be interesting to write a little of the fairies, 
the goblins and the banshees that find a home in Ireland. 



560 Where St. Patrick Spent His Boyhood. 

The keening of the banshee round the house on a lonely 
night brings terror to the home. Space will not permit me 
to relate some of the mythical stories. 

About five miles from Antrim we passed Cookstown 
Junction. Ballymena, an important linen town of Antrim, 
with a population of nine thousand, was upon our route. 
Eight miles away is the Sliemish Mountain, upon which St. 
Patrick spent his boyhood as a shepherd. 

We stopped at Coleraine. It is' a town of about seven 
thousand. While "Coleraine" Hnen is well known, "Cole- 
raine" whiskey has more than a local reputation. 



PORTRUSH — DUNLUCE CaSTLE. 561 



CHAPTER XLV. 

THE giant's causeway — A VISIT TO THIS GREAT MARVEL 

OF NATURE — A FORMATION OF AMAZING GRANDEUR 

AND BEAUTY — THE STORY OP FIN M'COOL — AN 

ORANGE INTERVIEW — LIMAVADDY. 

On the way to the Giant's Causeway from Coleraine, we 
passed Portstewart and Portrush, each of which is a cele- 
brated watering place. Charles Lever, the eminent Irish 
novelist, formerly practiced medicine at Portstewart. Before 
he died, he expressed the wish that he had never left that 
pretty town. 

Portrush, situated on a narrow peninsula, has two sea 
exposures, and is the chief watering place in the North of 
Ireland. The fine crescent-shaped strands furnish rare bath- 
ing facilities. I think Portrush an ideal place for summer 
rest and recreation. 

The Giant's Causeway is about seven miles from Portrush. 
We took the " electric " railway and found that the " elec- 
tric" motor was a "dummy" steam engine. 

About three and one-half miles from Portrush is Dunluce 
Castle. There are few ruins' in Erin so remarkable. It 
stands on an isolated rock that rises one hundred feet above 
'the sea. A chasm twenty feet broad and one hundred 
feet deep separates it from the mainland. The only approach 
to it from the land is over an arch about twenty-four inches 
wide. 

There are about twenty-seven caves between Portrush 
and Dunluce Castle. 

The ride on the train along the edge of the high cliffs is 
grand and sometimes startling, as turning a curve the cars 



562 "Charged With Whiskey." 

appear to swing out into space, endangering a landing on the 
rocks or in the water below. 

When we arrived at the Causeway we found hotel run- 
ners and guides galore. There are two good hotels for the 
accommodation of tourists. 

After dinner I asked for my bill. 

" Four shillings, drinks and all," said the proprietor. 

"Drinks and all! What drinks had I?" 1 asked. 

He scratched his head for a moment and then said: 
" Well, four shilHngs will settle." 

There was nothing left out for the drinks which had not 
been taken. 

In Dublin I found myself charged with " whiskey." This 
would not look well on the bill or the record of the treasurer 
of the C. T. A. U. of A., so I asked: "When did I get that 
whiskey?" 

The porter was called. He said: "Why, you got the 
whiskey Wednesday evening." 

"At what hour?" I asked. 

" At 9 o'clock." 

" But I was not in until 10 o'clock." 

" What is the number of your room?" he asked. Then 
he said: "Now, that's how the mistake happened. "I 
brought the whiskey to No. 3, and No. 3 is so near to No. 4 
that it got on to your bill. But it don't matter; at any rate, 
you got a lunch that night, and the lunch cost as much as 
the whiskey, so it's all right." 

"Well, it does matter," said I. "I don't object to pay- 
ing for the lunch, but I do object to paying for the 
whiskey." 

After dinner I went out and rambled on the promontory 
over the Giant's Causeway. A man appeared rather sud-. 
denly and asked: "Do you want to see the Causeway?" 

" Yes." • 



DuNLucE Castle. 



563 




DUNLUCE CASTLE. 

" Well, I am a guide." 

As a result of a barg:ain he took charge of the tourist. ' 
We went down a small road built for a quarter of a mile 
on a steep incline. The Causeway is now enclosed by an 
iron fence, and an admission fee is charged . My first view 



564 The Giant's Causeway. 

and impression as we rounded the promontory was one of 
disappointment in the Causeway. However, not to judge 
rashly, I entered upon the tour of the Causeway. I found 
my guide intelligent and well-posted. 

Looking around from a good point of vantage one i& 
almost led to believe that he is looking upon the excavated 
ruins of magnificent temples, whose noble columns of cut 
and polished stone got wedged and cemented together at 
various heights. Yet none of the columns were prone, but 
all upright, and ready by rearrangement for the super- 
structure. 

At a rough estimate, I would state that the entire length 
of the Causeway is about twelve hundred feet, and its 
greatest width about four hundred feet. It has been esti- 
mated that the number of vertical basaltic columns is forty 
thousand. All are angular, and vary from three to nine in 
the number of their sides. They are as close together and 
as well fitted and yet as distinct as can well be imagined. 
They are split across horizontally at irregular spaces, with 
concave and convex surfaces fitting like " ball-and-socket." 
The guide showed me the only triangular or three-sided 
column in the forty thousand. Most of them have four, six 
Or seven sides. So close are they that there is not space 
between for the blade of a knife. 

In the midst of the columns is the Giant's Well. It is 
small, but, strange to state, of the purest spring water. 
The old woman who hands you the tumbler expects that you 
will hand her something back. 

Soon we came to the Giant's Wishing Chair. The old 
man in charge was far from being a giant, but he wanted all 
to sit in the chair, so well formed by nature out of the 
pillars. You are assured that any wish you may form will 
be realized. While the tourist wishes, the little old man 
also wishes that he will get a nice offering. 



The Story op Fin McCool. 



565 



A magnificent colonnade of pillars in the center of the 
cliff is called the Giant's Organ. There is the Giant's Gate- 
way, the Giant's Loom, the Giant's Ball-Alley, the Giant's 
Theatre, the Giant's Granny, the Giant's Pulpit, etc. 




ALONG THE. CAUSEWAY. 



The guides tell a story — and it is " a story " — of the 
■origin of the Causeway. 

Fin McCool, the champion giant of Ireland, heard that 
Benardonner, the Scottish Goliah, claimed that he could wipe the 
ground with Fin. Fin dared him to come on. Ben said he 
would if it were not for getting wet swimming over. Fin then 
lauilt the Causeway so that Ben could come over without wetting 
the soles of his feet. Then Ben came, and Fin broke every bone 
in his body. 

Walking eastward from the larger Causeway, the tourist 



566 The Giant's Amphitheatre — The Caves. 

is struck with admiration at the sight of the great natural 
amphitheatre. Kohl proclaims it the most beautiful amphi- 
theatre in the world. The form of the Giant's Amphitheatre 
is so exactly half a circle that no architect could have 
possibly made it more so, and the cliff slopes at precisely 
the same angle all around to the centre. Around the upper 
part runs a row of columns, eighty feet high; then comes a 
broad rounded projection, like an immense bench, for the 
accommodation of the giant guests of Fin McCool; then 
again a row of pillars, sixty feet high, and then again a 
gigantic bench, and so down to the bottom, where the water 
is enclosed by a circle of black boulder stones, marking the 
limits of the arena. This is a scene in which no traveler need 
fear indulging in terms of exaggeration, for all that he can 
say must remain far behind the truth. 

The Giant's Chimney Tops consist of three distinct pillars, 
the tallest being forty-five feet high. It appears that they 
were mistaken for the chimney tops of Dunluce Castle, and 
were bombarded by some ships of the Spanish Armada that 
was soon afterwards lost in the adjoining bay, which has 
since been named Port-na-Spania. 

Two miles east of the Causeway is Pleaskin Cliff, which 
is said to be the most beautiful promontory in the world. It 
is four hundred feet high. 

Westward of the Causeway are two remarkable caves. 
The more westerly one is called Portcoon, the other Dun- 
kerry Cave. The latter can be entered only from the sea. 
The entrance is grand and striking, being a pointed arch 
twenty-six feet wide. The interior is seven hundred feet 
long, and the roof is more than sixty feet over the water at 
high tide. The swell of the sea on this coast appears to be 
at all times heavy, and as each successive wave rolls in, the 
sensation to the tourist in the cave leads him to believe that 
he is being raised to the roof. The cave of the "Blue 



The Shepherd's Path. 567 

Grotto," near Naples, is famous, but it is insignificant in 
comparison to Dunkerry, and even to Portcoon Cave, which 
is three hundred and fifty feet long and fifty-five feet high. 

When we had finished our tour of the Causeway, the 
guide said that we could get back to the hotel by a shorter 
way, and save nearly a mile. I expressed a willingness to 
take it. 




ALONG THE CAUSEWAY. 

"There it is," he said, pointing to the almost perpen- 
dicular cliff, over four hundred feet high. 

I asked: " Is it possible to get up there? " 
" Yes; it is called the Shepherd's Path, and now and then 
some attempt it. But if we go, don't look back, for the life 
of you, especially in the steep place near the top." 



568 An Orange Interview. 

We started for the climb. Two others went with us 
but turned back at the foot of the cliff. Up and up we 
went, using hands and feet. When I got nearer the top and 
the steepness increased, I wished that I was upon an Amer- 
ican prairie. But in a minute or two I swung over the top, 
quite exhausted, and found repose on a grassy knoll. 

I said to the guide: "Instead of calling that ascent the 
Shepherd's Path, you ought to call it the ' Goat's Path.' " 

" Thrue for you, indade," he said. 

I found that nearby sat two workingmen taking their 
lunch. One of them said: "That was a hard climb. I'd 
rather go the rounds myself than attempt that." 

" Well," I said, " I am so glad to have it over that I am 
glad I tried it." 

After some talk one of the men said: "You are a 
clergyman?" 

" Yes." 

"I suppose you are a Presbyterian clergyman?" he 
ventured. 

" No, I am not. I suppose you are members of the 
Orange Lodge?" 

" Yes, we are." 

" Well, I am a Catholic priest from America." 

They looked at each other in mute surprise. Finally one 
said: 

" You are not much like the priests about here." 

"Why do you say that?" 

" Ah, they wouldn't sit down and talk with us in this 
way." 

" Well" I said, " if they had climbed up that cliff they 
would be glad to sit down." 

That made the men laugh. I said to them: 

" Why are you always fighting here in Ireland on Cath- 
olic and Protestant questions; on matters of Green and 



LiMAVADDY. 569 

Orange? In America we may differ and argue, but we are 
neighborly and friendly with one another." 

" Oh, we don't fight much here." 

"You don't? What happened in Belfast a short time 
ago?" 

"Well, to tell the truth," said one, "they are rather 
riotous in Belfast." 

We talked along these lines for some time. Then one of 
them asked: 

"Do you live any place near Chicago?" 

Upon my telling him that I lived within ten hours' ride, 
he said: 

"I have a niece there who is finishing in the High School. 
I've sent her a fine gold chain that cost me £5. I am going 
to tell her and my sister that I met you." 

I handed him my card and said: "If they ever pass 
through Cleveland tell them to call." 

" I will, I will; to be sure I will." 

As I was walking away they cried out: "A safe and 
pleasant voyage home to you." 

I wandered along the high clifi^s for some distance. 
The wind was so strong that I considered it somewhat dan- 
gerous. A week after I was there a student from Dublin 
went over the same ground. His hat was blown of. In 
running after it he got so near the edge that he could not 
stop, and was killed on the rocks, over four hundred feet 
below. 

On my way to Derry I went back through Portrush and 
Coleraine. I crossed the River Bann, which serves as an 
outlet for Lough Neagh. I passed through the hamlets of 
Castle Rock, Downhill, Umbria, well named with its bowery 
glade under the cliffs, and Limavaddy Junction. 

Here I was reminded of Thackeray's visit to Limavaddy, 
where he was charmed with Peggy, the waiting maid at the 



570 Irish Railways. 

inn. With her for an inspiration he wrote verses enough to 
fill several of these pages. It begins with: 

" Riding from Coleraine 

(Famed for lovely Kitt}0 
Came a Cockney bound 

Unto Derry City." 

In one of the eighteen verses he says: 

" Beauty is not rare 

In the land of Paddy. 
Far beyond compare 

Is Peg of Limavaddy." 

We got to Derry in due time. When I arrived at the 
City Hotel I had the pleasure of again meeting Mr. John 
C. Campbell, in accordance with our agreement. Father 
O'Doherty was not in the city, so I had no special reason to 
remain, having seen the place during my first day in Ireland. 
Mr. Campbell and I hastened on a jaunting car to the 
station, where we took the train for Letterkenny, in the 
County Donegal. 

From Derry to Letterkenny is a distance of about twenty- 
four miles by rail. Generally speaking, the speed of the 
trains in Ireland is on a par with those in the United States. 
But the Letterkenny train was a counterpart of a train on 
the old Mahoning branch, which years ago ran into Cleveland. 
A passenger complained of its slowness, saying to the con- 
ductor: " I could walk faster than this blasted train goes." 

''Why, then, don't you get off and walk?" 

■' I would, but some of my friends are going to meet me at 
the station in Cleveland, and I do not want to hang around 
there two or three hours." That silenced the conductor. 

The grumbling passengers in Europe cannot complain en 
route to the conductor. There is no communication between 
cars on the old country railways; there is no communication, 
as a rule, between the compartments of the same coach. 



Beautiful Letterkenny- — Lurgybreck, 



571 



CHAPTER XLVI. 

BEAUTIFUL LETTERKENNY — AMID SCENES OF SYLVAN LOVELI- 
NESS — LOUGH SWILLY — AN AMERICAN'S CASTLE — LORD 
LEITRIM'S ESTATE — SOME UNWRITTEN HISTORY — 
A HORSE FAIR — SOME NATIVE CUSTOMS. 

We arrived Saturday evening about 7 o'clock at Letter- 
kenny, the terminus of the railway. Mr. Campbell and I 
found our genial friend, Mr. -John Gallagher, awaiting us at 
the station. He gave us a hearty welcome, and soon had us 
on his jaunting car bound 
for his farm at Lurgy- 
breck, about a mile and a 
quarter from the town. 
The horse was a good 
stepper and a fine looking 
animal, and the car the 
best Lhad mounted in Ire- 
land. 

We soon got to the 
farm. The driveway from 
the road to the house is 
lined with rich and well- 
trimmed hedges and state- 
ly shade trees. The farm 
is finely situated; it in- 
clines gently to the north, 

is rolling and fertile, is well-kept and in full view of Lough 
Swilly, about half a mile away. 

The changes wrought by time are often remarkable. I 
understood that the former owner in days gone by was the 




ST. CUNAN'S CATHEDRAL. 



o72 The New Cathedral. 

landlord of Mr. Gallagher. Business reverses or bad man- 
agement obliged him to sell, and the offer of Mr. Gallagher 
was found to be the best the old landlord could get. One 
day while I was there, the son of the former landlord came 
from London to make a sketch of "the old home." 

At Lurgybreck we met Mr. P. O'Doherty, of Pittsburg, 
who was a guest of Mr. Gallagher. After supper we sat 
under the trees talking of home and friends and of my tour 
until a late hour. 

Sunday morning found us aboard the jaunting car on our 
way to the pro-Cathedral for Mass. 

Letterkenny is a smart, well-built town, of about fifteen 
hundred inhabitants. It is situated on the side of a hill, at 
the beginning of Lough Swilly. 

Mr. Gallagher introduced me to the genial pastor, Father 
Sheridan. When we passed through the grounds in front of 
the church, a large number of intelligent, well-dressed people 
were crowding in to assist at Mass. Soon the edifice was 
filled, and the congregation overflowed out into the yard as 
far as the gates, and knelt reverently on the ground. I 
celebrated the 9 o'clock Mass. 

A fine convent and two new stone school buildings are on 
the hill near the Cathedral. Bishop O'Donnell conducted 
Mr. Gallagher and myself through the new Cathedral, now 
being roofed. When completed, it will be a magnificent 
Gothic structure, about two hundred and fifty feet long. 
Over a dozen stone-carvers were at work, besides about a 
score of stone-cutters and carpenters. I estimated that the 
cost of the building when completed will not be less than 
-$250,000. Collectors have called on the Catholic people in 
the United States for contributions to this Cathedral. 

We called on Mrs. McGarry, who keeps a hotel in the 
town. One of her sons lives in Cleveland, and is well and 
favorably known. We had a pleasant visit with the family. 



Round About Letterkenny. 573 

After dinner, Mr. Gallagher, Mr. O'Doherty, Mr. Campbell 
and I took a drive of about thirty miles. We found the 
roads smooth and well cared for, the scenery varied and 
beautiful in valleys, hills, mountains and rivers. 

We stopped at the ruins of the old Chapel of Temple 
Douglass. The spot is held sacred as the early home and 
school of St. Columba. Ancient graves are covered by the 
long grass and weeds. I found one of them marked with the 
figure of a chalice, book and cross, and the letters, ''I. H. S." 
Time had erased the inscription, but we knew it was the 
grave of a priest. Another tomb nearby proved to- be the 
last resting place of two priests and their parents, named 
O'Donnell. 

In the afternoon we passed a well-kept, quiet farm of 
about one hundred and twenty-five acres. Mr. Gallagher 
told me that the occupant was named Armour, and that it 
was the former home of Philip iVrmour, the well-known 
millionaire pork packer of Chicago. We had a charming- 
drive along roads frequently winding on their way and 
arbored over by beautiful shade trees, often giving the im- 
pression of rolling along private drives through a park. 

Monday morning found us preparing for another long- 
jaunting car ride. At breakfast we discussed the route. 
Mr. Gallagher was our guide. He took us along the banks 
of famous Lough Swilly to Rathmullen, some sixteen miles 
away. The road runs at some places about three hundred 
feet above the lake. 

Eight and a half miles from Letterkenny we passed 
through Hamilton, a wooded and picturesque town on the 
banks of the River Lannon. We went by a fine Catholic 
Church, built of stone, surrounded by well-kept grounds. 
To cross the river we had to descend three hundred feet by 
a rather abrupt hill. We ascended on the other side a 
well shaded road of gradual incline. 



•574 An American's "Castle." 

RathmuUen, a hamlet of five hundred people, is finely 
situated on Lough Swilly. We wandered along the beautiful 
strand, which abounds in shells of many colors. We met 
four women who were digging with spoons in the soft 
sand for cockles, a sort of shell fish. They had their tin 
pails nearly full. To my question, they said: "No, we are 
not going to sell them, but to use them ourselves for food at 
home." 

Across the lake we could see Buncrana, a popular water- 
ing place of one thousand population. Over from us was 
" Inch," or Oyster Island. I was told that it was given as 
a reward in penal days to a man who had informed on a 
priest for officiating among the people. 

We visited with much interest the ruins of the old Abbey 
of RathmuUen. In ages back it was the monastic home of 
the Carmelite Friars. The grounds are used as a cemetery. 
I saw there the tomb of Captain Packenham, His ship, the 
" Saldana," was lost with all on board in 1814. The custo- 
dian and his son we found to be unique characters, both in 
their manners and conversation. 

We had not forgotten in the morning that the day was 
the "Fourth of July." Mr. Gallagher hung out the Stars 
and Stripes from an upper window^ in the " Castle of Lurgy- 
breck." We saluted the flag on our departure and again on 
our return in the evening. We had no fire crackers, but 
Mr. O'Doherty had found a good substitute in the bulbs of 
some sea weed. When thrown into the fireplace they popped 
with a noise similar to fire crackers. 

RathmuUen was the capital of the McSweeneys in days 
of yore, and has some reminders of the great sept of the 
O'Donnell's. It was at RathmuUen in 1607 that Rory, Earl of 
Tyrone, fled from Ireland in what is known in Irish history 
as the " Flight of the Earls." 

Theobald Wolfe Tone was among the French officers cap- 



Lord Leitrim's Estate. 575 

tured at RathmuUen in 1798. They had been brought to 
Lord Cavan's house on Lough Swilly. Among the guests was 
Sir George Hill. Looking into the faces of the French 
officers he recognized the features of his old college friend. 
No one else had recognized him. Wolfe Tone wore the uni- 
form of a French officer and spoke French fluently. Sir 
Geo. Hill was not generous enough to let his old friend pass 
incog, but addressed him openly by name. Tone answered 
the greeting of his treacherous friend by saying: "Yes, I 
am Theobald Wolfe Tone." He was immediately sent heavily 
ironed to Dublin. 

Tuesday morning found us again on the road. We were 
bound, under the guidance of Mr. Gallagher, for Carrigart, 
on the northern coast of Donegal. Part of the ride was 
through a barren and mountainous country. I wondered 
why the lean little sheep were not leaner and smaller when I 
observed their feeding places. I noticed little lines of gath- 
ered stones running up the hillsides. I was told that these 
constituted the boundaries of demarkations between the 
holdings of tenants. ■ = 

We were in the domain of the cruel Lord Leitrim, who 
was assassinated in 1878. The holdings of Lord Leitrim 
were very extensive, and he used his power over the terri- 
tory with persistent severity. 

After a drive of over twenty miles we reached the Rosa- 
penna Hotel, situated by the sea coast, on a very picturesque 
promontory between Mulroy Bay and Sheephaven. The beach 
is crescent-shaped and sweeps around for five miles, giving 
fine facilities for sea bathing. The hotel was constructed in 
1892 by a later and more popular Earl of Leitrim. In the 
little town nearby we viewed the fine monument erected to 
his memory by the same people who execrated the memory 
of his predecessor, the old Lord Leitrim. 

Returning by a different road we passed along Mulroy 



576 Lord Leitrim. 

Bay, near the home of the late Lord Leitrim. The bay is 
about twelve miles long and a mile and a half across at its 
widest part. 

After ascending a gentle incline on the road the car 
stopped at a lonesome place. We were on the spot where 
the old Lord Leitrim was assassinated in 1878. We stood 
by the bush behind which the men hid waiting for his ap- 
proach. There was great excitement and consternation in 
the country after the lifeless bodies of himself and his driver 
were found in the road by his secretary, who followed a 
short distance behind. When I considered the cold-blooded 
deed I expressed my abhorrence. But in passing through the 
domain of the murdered man, and hearing the stories told of 
him, I soon realized that there were some palliating circum- 
stances. 

Lord Leitrim was a man of violent temper, unscrupulous 
and of beastly passions. I was told that he would frequently 
shoot down the beasts of the peasantry, and let them whistle 
for compensation; that on noticing the least improvement 
made by the tenants he would raise the rent, and without 
hesitation or justice would often forcibly evict. We passed 
a pretty place, but the former comfortable home was in 
ruins. I was told that a very respectable family had oc- 
cupied the building. Lord Leitrim had demolished the house 
over their heads because the parents would not comply with 
his requisition that their daughter, a handsome young woman, 
should be sent to his castle. He assumed to hold his tenants 
as mere chattels, and that they had no rights which he was 
bound to respect. 

The civil law could not reach him, as he exercised the 
power of judge, or had the other magistrates under his in- 
fluence and control. Hence there was no mourning in Done- 
gal when the news was spread: "Leitrim has been killed." 

During my wanderings in Donegal I heard some particu- 



Some Unwritten History. 577 

lars concerning the assassination of Lord Leitrim, which I 
think never appeared in print. I had some misgivings about 
penning them, but after consultation I decided to do so, as 
the actors have gone into eternity, and no earthly judge can 
reach them. Though the British Government offered a re- 
ward of $50,000, not a whisper of information could it get 
concerning the perpetrators. 

On the day of the assassination four men hid behind the 
bush waiting for the approach of Lord Leitrim. The sound 
of a car was heard approaching. One of the men raised his 
head, expecting to see Lord Leitrim. Instead he saw a 
neighbor in the approaching cart. The man behind the bush 
"ducked down," but fearing that the neighbor had seen him, 
and might afterwards give the information, he concluded to 
follow and sound him on the matter. He bounded out and 
followed and climbed into the cart. While they were talking 
a shot rang out. Impulsively the man cried, as he sprang 
from the cart: "Lord Leitrim is shot !" 

The shot from the old blunderbuss had only wounded 
Lord Leitrim, but the wound was in his pistol arm. As he 
rolled from the car he tried to draw his pistol, and cried to 
the assassins as they sprang out into the road : " Fight fair ! " 
Had his arm not been disabled he probably would have killed 
his assailants. As it was, they beat him and his driver to 
death — the latter that they might remove one who could 
inform on them. 

After the dark deed the perpetrators separated. One of 
them ran down the hill to an arm of Mulroy Bay, and getting 
into a boat, reached the opposite shore. Hurrying through 
the woods and along byways he suddenly realized that he was 
bareheaded, having lost his cap on the scene. He knew 
that a bareheaded man hurrying along would soon attract 
attention. Early the next morning he resolved to enter 
the first house he came to, in order to get a hat. He 



578 Incidents of the Trial. 

cautiously ofjened a door, and seeing an old man seated by 
the fire, he approached him on tiptoe and grabbed his hat. 
When the old man turned the fugitive perceived that he was 
blind. He hastened out again and sped away, and finally 
got to America. 

Detectives by the score, and hundreds of the constabu- 
lary, in all kinds of disguises, spread over Donegal. Arrests 
were made far and near. Among those taken was a tailor 
who was strongly suspected of being implicated in the crime. 
He was promised a large reward and protection for life if he 
would turn state's evidence. 

Letterkenny, during the days of trial, was crowded with 
soldiers and people. Fear was wide-spread that the tailor 
knew those engaged in the dark work, and that he would 
implicate many in the plot. 

Guards prevented free ingress to the Court House, which, 
nevertheless, was crowded. A portly, well-dressed man, 
.with a book in his hand, and in a bustling way, approached 
the entrance. Supposing him to be one of the attaches, the 
guards made way for him. The man with the book was 
our friend and guide, Mr. John J. Gallagher, who took this 
means to be present at the hearing. 

Though desperate efforts were made by the prosecution, 
sufficient evidence could not be produced to convict those 
a,rrested on suspicion of being implicated in the assassina- 
tion of Lord Leitrim. Hope and fear were centered around 
the tailor that he might turn Queen's evidence. But, what- 
ever his knowledge or his 'intentions, he was taken down 
with typhoid fever and died the day before the time set for 
the taking of his testimony. There were some in Donegal 
who preferred to have him go to Heaven rather than ap- 
pear in court. As no case could be made against the accused 
the prosecution had to be dropped. 

A gentleman told me that he was in Rathmullen. five 



Mr. Gallagher's Barometer. 579 

miles from the scene of the tragedy, the day it took place. 
An old woman who peddled for a living asked him, excitedly: 
"Did ye hear the news — the news about Lord Leitrim?" 

"No. What news? Is he shot?" 

"The old devil wouldn't shoot for them," she said, re- 
ferring to the fact and meaning that he had not succumbed 
to the shot. 

The assassination, with the trial, of Lord Leitrim, is one 
of the most interesting events in the modern history of 
Ireland. 

We passed through the town of Milford on our return 
from Rosapenna. It is prettily situated on the side of a hill, 
and has sylvan surroundings. It has a population of about 
four hundred. At the hotel where we took supper we met 
some of the people who had been at Lough Derg during our 
visit there. 

One morning as we were about to take a journey on the 
jaunting car, Mr. Gallagher consulted the barometer hanging 
in the hallway at Lurgybreck. 

"It is all right," said Mr. Gallagher; "the barometer 
points to ' fair.' " 

When we were about to get on the car, I asked him : 
"Is that barometer reliable?" 

" Indeed it is; you may rely upon it every time," he said. 

" Why, then," I asked, " are you bringing your umbrella?" 

Mr. Gallagher looked a little embarrassed, but clung to 
the umbrella. Several times during the day it looked as 
though it would rain, but as it did not, the barometer was 
vindicated, though we had some doubts about Mr. Gallagher's 
implicit faith in its forecasts. 

On Monday morning the party at Lurgybreck was dis- 
solved. Messrs. Campbell and O'Doherty left on the early 
train. Mr. Gallagher and I took a jaunting car ride of 
sixteen miles to Strabane, in the County Tyrone. The drive 



580 A Horse Fair. 

was through a beautiful country of well-tilled farms. Hills 
and dales and winding valleys combined to make up a con- 
tinuous and most charming picture. We crossed the Rivers 
Mourne and Finn between Strabane and Lifford. Strabane 
is a prosperous town of about five thousand people. 

I was much interested in finding myself in the midst of 
a cattle and horse market at Strabane. The next day I at- 
tended another in Letterkenny. These fairs presented none 
of the features found in the songs about Donnybrook. 

I was much interested in the " dickering." " How much? " 
"Nine pounds." ''Take £7?" "Begone, you omadahn. 
You must raise." " Perhaps it's the other way; Fll be going. 
Now mind yourself." 

The would-be-buyer takes out a big penny, grabs the half 
reluctant hand of the owner of the animal, and with vim 
slaps the opened palm, and asks : "Is it a bargain?" 

If the owner surrenders, the buyer chalks the animal 
with some kind of a trade mark, and it is turned into an en- 
closure with the rest of the purchased stock. If the seller 
refuses the offer, notwithstanding the " skelp " of the penny, 
a third party joins their hands and seeks to get them to di- 
vide or split the difference. If no compromise is made and 
no sale affected, a most unjust and tyrannical custom is 
brought into play by the would-be purchaser. No other buyer 
is allowed to step in and offer a higher price until the first 
bidder relieves the owner from his bid, or gives up his 
"right" to get the animal at his price. The owner need 
not sell, to be sure, but if the would-be buyer holds out 
the owner may have to drive his cattle back home, twelve or 
or more miles. 

I asked why other buyers would not bid. 

"Oh! custom does not permit it; that would be an insult 
to the first bidder, and he and his friends would resent it, 
and then there would be a fight." 



Some Native Customs — The Convent. 581 

" Well," I said, " if the Irish want ' fair play ' and * home 
rule ' and ' justice,' they had better bury that custom, and 
those who would uphold it. With such a custom how could 
you hold an auction? " 

I took a walk through Strabane and soon came to a fine 
stone church, surrounded by ample grounds. I saw that 
there was a funeral. I went in and found that Mass had 
just been concluded. Men alone were in attendance, though 
the funeral, as I learned from the sermon, was that of a 
woman. Ofii'erings were made by the friends of the deceased. 
It does not appear to be customary there for women to at- 
tend funerals. I also noticed some funerals in Turkey and in 
Italy at which men alone assisted. 

After the funeral Mr. Gallagher introduced me to a Mr. 
O'Brien, who accompanied me to the convent, while Mr. Gal- 
lagher went back to the horse fair. On our way we passed 
the fine parochial residence, built of stone. It had bay win- 
dows running up the three stories. I remarked to Mr. 
O'Brien: " You have a fine church property here. It must 
have cost a considerable sum of money. I suppose you got 
a great deal of help from America." 

" Yes, we did, indeed," he said. 

" About how much was collected there?" 

" Well, as near as I can remember, and I was one of the 
committeemen," he said, " I think "we got about £5,000." 
The sum of $25,000 was a good deal from America for such 
a place as Strabane. 

The convent, conducted by the Sisters of Mercy, is a fine 
large building on a hill, surrounded by about one hundred 
acres of land, A fine private drive, well hedged, approaches 
the convent. The Mother Superior conducted me through 
the convent, including the beautiful chapel and the schools, 
which accommodate three hundred pupils. For the day-' 
scholars the government pays for teaching each pupil five 



582 The ''Can't Take Anything Society," 

shillings a week, which is nearly $1.25 in our money. The 
Sisters have a good reputation as teachers, and their methods 
appear to be " up-to-date." 

Before leaving the Sisters offered me a glass of wine. I 
asked: "Sisters, did you not see by my card that I am a 
member of the C. T. A. Union?" 

" Yes, we saw it and were puzzled. What is the mean- 
ing of the letters C. T. A?" 

I said, very seriously: "They are the initials of ' Can't 
Take Anything.' " 

The Sisters looked very much surprised, and wanted to 
know if there were many members in America of the " Can't 
Take Anything Society." 

"Oh! yes," I said, " about one hundred thousand." 

On my way back to the town Mr. O'Brien said: "I un- 
derstand that you are from Cleveland. Did you know the 
McGillen family and Mr. Connelly?" 

On my replying in the affirmative, he told me that they 
had formerly lived in Strabane, and that he himself had kept 
a draper's establishment, which is another name for a dry 
goods store. 

Mr. Gallagher did not sell the tw^o fine horses he had 
sent to the fair. The would-be buyer would not offer 
enough, and competition appeared to be shut off. 

On our way back to Letterkenny we took a different road 
and passed through the ancient town of Raphoe, which has a 
population of about one thousand. Outside of Raphoe we 
overtook the parish priest, who was taking an evening walk, 
accompanied by a fine large St. Bernard dog. Mr. Gallagher 
and the priest appeared to be well acquainted. As it does 
not get dark in Ireland until about 10 p. m., I enjoyed the 
ride and the scenery very much. 

We visited Bishop O'Donnell on the following day. He 
invited us to dine with him on the morrow, but I told him 



Stranolar. 583 

that I could not, as I intended then to continue my tour 
through Ireland. 

I spent a few hours in rambling through the fair then in 
progress near the Cathedral. Scenes similar to those in 
Strabane were presented. There appears to be an abundance 
of cattle, at least in the North of Ireland. 

I enjoyed my week's stay at Lurgybreck very much. I 
was loath to leave, but time pressed and I had much yet to 
see in Ireland. 

Mr. Gallagher took me on his car to Stranolar, a fine 
drive of about twelve miles. Isaac Butt, the Irish leader for 
Home Rule, is buried in Stranolar, I was agreeably sur- 
prised when, as I was about to bid Mr. Gallagher good-bye, 
he said: "We will not part yet. I'll put the horse and car 
in a stable here, and go with you to the town of Donegal." 



584 Donegal. 



CHAPTER XLVII. 

IN COUNTIES DONEGAL AND SLIGO — A PICTURESQUE RUIN — 

DONEGAL CASTLE — BALLYSHANNON — HER MAJESTY'S 

MAIL — SLIGO — LOUGH GILL — FAR-FAMED SLIGO 

ABBEY — CATHOLIC NEWSPAPERS. 

After an hour's ride on the railway, we reached Donegal, 
a nicely situated town overlooking the beautiful bay of the 
same name. Our hotel faced on the square or " diamond.'' 

After supper we took a walk to the ruins of Donegal 
Abbey, a Fifteenth Century building, formerly used by the 
Franciscans. It stands near the bay. The Public Works' 
Department was engaged in repairing the ruins. A very old 
cemetery surrounds the abbey. In it is a cross, twelve feet 
high, erected to the memory of Rev. .J. Doherty (1881). Part 
of the cloisters, with a number of well-preserved small, round 
arches, are pleasing features of the ruins. 

This abbey is famous as being the place in which the 
" Annals of the Kingdom of Ireland," by the Four Masters, 
were written. 

We went back through the town to visit Donegal Castle, 
the former residence of the O'Donnells. The hotel-keeper 
found the custodian, who unlocked the gates and conducted 
us through the deserted, but " restored," ruins. In the old 
drawing-room is a decorated mantle-piece, with finely carved 
figures and carved fruit. 

In 1587, Hugh Roe O'Donnell successfully held the castle 
against the English forces. A wine-laden ship was then sent 
into the bay. The captain ofl^ered the hospitalities of the ship 
to the Irish chief, who readily accepted. Overcome by the 
wine, he was bound and carried to Dublin Castle. Had the Irish 



Donegal Castle. 



585 



chiefs and their followers been C. T. A. men, many sad 
defeats would have been prevented. Excessive drink is the 
" white man's burden." But Ireland's record on the drink 
habit, though not as bad as that in several other lands less 
criticised, is still bad enough. 



A 





DONEGAL CASTLE 




Early in the morning, Mr. Gallagher and I took the train 
for Killybegs, nineteen miles away. We circled along Done- 
gal Bay for a good part of the way amid beautiful scenery. 
We passed through Mount Charles and Dunkineely. 

Killybegs is picturesquely situated on a hillside over- 
looking the almost land-locked and beautiful Killybegs Bay. 
It is a popular summer resort. 

At any stage of the tide the largest vessels can safely 
ride in the beautiful harbor. What a fine future there 



586 Ballyshannon. 

would be for Killybegs with such a harbor, were Ireland free 
to manage her own affairs. 

A neat yacht carrying the Stars and Stripes was making 
its way for a sail on the ocean. Half an hour sooner and 
we would have had the pleasure of greeting its American 
owner, and possibly would have taken a sea ride with him to 
Sligo. 

Mass was nearly over when we reached the church. For 
the short time that we remained in Killybegs, the priest went 
with us to the hotel and back to the station. 

Mr. Gallagher, who is one of nature's noblemen, and I 
parted company on our return to Donegal. I had passed the 
pleasantest week of my tour at Lurgybreck. 

I hired a jaunting car and rode fifteen miles to Bally- 
shannon. Part of the journey was along the shores of Done- 
gal Bay. I was much interested in the varied and pictur- 
esque scenery. 

Ballyshannon is nicely situated on both banks of the 
Earne. It has a population of about three thousand. From 
the old buttressed bridge the visitor may see the two fea- 
tures of the town — the Rapids above and the " Salmon Leap,"'^ 
one-fourth of a mile below. Ballyshannon is noted for its 
salmon fishing. It is wonderful how high these fish leap — 
about fourteen feet — to get over the falls when they come 
up from the sea in the early spring. 

I drove on four miles farther to Bundoran, where, after 
a few hours. I took the mail car for a ride of twenty-two 
miles to the town of Sligo. 

The driver of the mail car from Ballyshannon to Sligo 
was a veteran at the business. While of a kindly disposition 
he was rather bluff and full of his own importance. A 
woman stopped the car between stations and wanted him to 
deliver, a letter on the way. "No, I can not; it has no- 
stamp, and I am the driver of Her Majesty's mail." 



Her Majesty's Mail. 587 

A passenger agreed to carry it. But the driver of Her 
Majesty's mail said: "It has no stamp, and that I cannot 
allow." 

I said: "I have a letter in my pocket that has no 
stamp. What are you, as the driver of Her Majesty's mail, 
going to do about that?" 

"That's a puzzling question, sir, and I'll have to think 
over its solution." 

A compromise was made by agreeing to place a stamp 
upon the woman's letter at the next postoffice station. The 
mail route is along the ocean and quite near to the coast. 

A stop was'^ made at Chiff ony to change horses. I got 
down and walked on ahead of the car. I was passed by a 
number of bicycle riders, some of them in groups. I met 
many fine subjects for " snapshots." 

After walking about a mile the car overtook me. The 
driver said: " Your Reverence, we didn't know what had be- 
come of you. We looked all about for you, but we could 
not detain Her Majesty's mail any longer. It beats all to 
think we find you away out here, walking leisurely on the 
highway." 

" Well," I said, " I thought I would get ahead of Her 
Majesty's mail. I don't think you could get a mile ahead 
of Uncle Sam's mail by walking between stops." 

He laughed as I took my seat on the royal conveyance 
pulled by a bob-tailed nag. 

We passed through a number of neat but rather quiet 
country towns, and got to Sligo about 8 o'clock on Saturday 
evening. The driver had become quite confidential with me, 
and said he would bring me to the best hotel. He stopped 
at the Imperial and said: " Here it is." 

The hotel was centrally located, near the upper bridge, 
and close to the fine river that empties from Lough Gill. 

After supper I wandered through the town. It is well- 



588 



Sligo — Bishop Clancy. 



built and has a population of over ten thousand. I made my 
way to the Cathedral, which is a large and well-constructed 
stone edifice. It is nicely situated, and with its magnificent 
furnishings cost not less than $350,000. The altars, the 
communion railing, the pulpit, etc., are of marble, and the 

pipe organ cost about 
$5,000. I found a 
large number of people 
around the different 
confessionals. 

I called on some 
people who had rela- 
tions living in Cleve- 
land. They were glad 
to hear from those in 
'■ Far-off America." 

Sunday morning at 
8 o'clock I met Bishop 
Clancy in the vestry 
preparing for Mass. He 
gave me a cordial 
greeting, remarking: 
" Father McMahon, you 
may remember that I 
met you in Maynooth." I then recalled that we sat next 
each other there at dinner. 

Rt. Rev. Bishop Clancy was formerly a member of the 
faculty of Maynooth College. He told me that he was in 
America a few years ago; that he knew Rev. Edward Han- 
nin, of Toledo, and that they had traveled together from the 
latter city to Chicago. 

After Mass, at which there was a large congregation, 
and very many C&mmunions, the Bishop invited me to dine 
with him that evening at 5 o'clock. 




BISHOP CLANCY. 



Lough Gill. 589 

Near the hotel a man proposed that I should take a row- 
boat for Lough Gill, about two and a half miles away. I 
said that the proprietor had told me that the best way to 
see Lough Gill was to drive around it in a jaunting car. 
"It is not," the boatman said; "if he did not have cars to 
rent he would tell you so himself." 

I had heard of Lough Gill as one of the most charming 
sheets of water in the British Lsles, and, of course, I wanted 
to see it. 

"How much do you charge for your boat?" I asked the 
boatman. 

" Oh, I'll make that all right, never fear. When you come 
back you'll not say it is too much. But I must make enough 
this summer to keep me over winter. This is a poor sum.- 
mer; bad cess to the Spanish war. When you get back, 
pay me, and pay no one else." 

The shores of Lough Gill are graceful and well-wooded. 
It is five miles long and one and a half wide. The two and 
a half miles ride on the river before reaching it is through 
some lovely scenery. 

We rowed across the lake, then got out and ascended 
through a thick growth of trees to a high hill which com- 
mands a full view of the placid lake and its many beautiful 
and well-wooded islands. We passed through a secluded 
spot, very level and about fifty feet square. " You wouldn't 
guess what takes place here," said the boatman. ." No." 
" Well, there be times when a fiddler is here and the lads 
and lassies have a bit of a dance." 

On our way back the boatman brought me to a retired 
spot under some large trees. There was an altar and on 
and about it a number of " offerings." He said it was a holy 
fountain, or well, for which the people had much reverence. 

Rowing down the river, I asked the boatman: "How 
much wages do you get?" 



590 A Native Boatman. 

" Never a ha'penny but what you and the likes of you 
give me." 

" Will not the owner pay you out of what he will charge 
me?" 

" Indeed not." 

" He ■ said nothing to me about paying you. It is poor 
business to have any man working without certain compen- 
sation. Why don't you quit?" 

" There'd be a score to take my place in a jiffy." 

" It is very demeaning," I said, " for a man who works to 
be put in the position of a beggar for his wages." 

"True for you, sir; but that's the way of it." 

This appears to be the common condition of such men, 
not only in Ireland,^ but throughout Europe. Tipping is the 
cause of it. 

When I got back to the landing, the daughter of the 
man was on hand to collect five shillings, which she said was 
the price of the boat ride. Her father had gone out with 
another boat. 

While on Lough Gill, and looking at the sylvan surround- 
ings, I asked the boatman: "Is the hunting good here?" 

"Ah, no," he said, "the hunting is poor, but the shoot- 
ing is good." 

I found that "hunting" and "shooting" are not used as 
synonymous terms in Ireland. 

I went from the boat to visit the far-famed ruins of 
Sligo Abbey. The original church, built by Maurice Fitz- 
gerald, Chief Justice of Ireland, about 1350, was partly 
destroyed by fire in 1414. How^ever, there are five pointed 
lofty windows. 

The cloisters are the gem of the building. There are 
forty-six pointed arches. On one of the pillars there is 
carved the " True Lover's Knot." 

There is a monument to Roderick O'Connor, last King of 



Far-Famed Sligo Abbey. 



591 



Connaught, and to his Queen, who was Countess Desmond, of 
County Kilkenny. Both are sculptured kneeling in prayer. 
The date is 1623. There are various emblems on the monu- 
ment — crucifix, shield, helmet, etc. 

There is a monument to "Peter Beolan, a Sligo shop- 
keeper, one hundred and forty-four years old, died in 1783." 
Mr. Beolan certainly had a long life. 




SLIGO ABBEY. 

The care-taker of the abbey was an old woman. I do 
not know whom she supposed me to be, for she said: " Your 
Reverence, the Board of Public Works gives me no salary. 
Would you speak to them to allow me a salary? I'm cutting 
down these big weeds. Sure, if I had a salary I could pay a 
man to do it." 



592 Catholic Newspapers. 

The Episcopal Palace is a fine stone building, situated 
across from the Cathedral, and is surrounded by about five 
acres of ground that rise gradually from the street. In ac- 
cordance with his invitation, I was there at 5 o'clock to dine 
with Bishop Clancy. As the Diocesan Retreat was to begin 
the next day, there were a number of priests at the table. 
The conversation drifted to many ■ subjects. I objected 
strongly to the hiding away in closets or the locking up of 
religious statues as soon as the bell rang for studies in 
the National Schools. I thought the object lesson was bad 
for the children. The Bishop said: 

" There is another view of the matter. It is an object 
lesson to the children that the Church is not free, and is 
still persecuted, and this feeling tends to make them stronger 
in the faith." 

The Bishop asked me: ''Father, what is the most strik- 
ing thing you have observed in Ireland?" 

I replied: "Your lordship, the one thing in Ireland that 
has struck me with astonishment, even beyond that excited 
by the Giant's Causeway, is the lack of Catholic family news- 
papers. Your papers here are controlled entirely by lay- 
men, and are secular and political, rather than religious 
papers. You have, as far as I have observed, only one paper 
with a Catholic name, and that is, as I understand, an annex 
of one of the secular newspapers. You have no paper 
through which Bishops and priests are perfectly free to speak 
to their people, and to which people can look as a rehable 
medium for Catholic teaching. You are now dependent for 
a hearing upon the good-will of those who control the sec- 
ular papers. No doubt most of those in charge are Catholics, 
but they don't publish ex-prof esso Catholic papers. You are, 
as far as I can see, dependent on other countries for your 
truly family Catholic papers; for instance, on England. This 
is not the case in America. Ireland, with its vast Catholic 



Late Risers. 593 

population, ought to support one or several strong Catholic 
family newspapers, which would enter the homes and supple- 
ment the teachings of the Church. Besides, the Holy Father, 
Leo XIIL, has frequently dwelt on the importance of Cath- 
olic family newspapers as being a continuous mission in a 
parish and among the people." 

The Bishop and priests glanced around, and Bishop Clancy 
said: " I fear, Father McMahon, that we must confess that 
many of your strictures regarding the lack of Catholic news- 
papers in Ireland are well-grounded. Politics absorb, in 
many respects, too much of our people's and our priests' 
attention." 

However, in Ireland political and religious questions fre- 
quently shingle or overlap each other. 

The evening service at the Cathedral began at about 7 
o'clock. There was a large congregation. The pastor told 
me that in the cooler season the attendance was still larger. 
The assemblage appeared to be composed principally of the 
members of the League of the Sacred Heart. First came the 
Rosary, then a sermon, followed by Benediction. The people 
were well-dressed, apparently refined, intelligent and devout. 

Monday morning I was up early to get the 5:30 train. 
Not a person was stirring in the hotel, though I had settled 
my bill the night before and intimated my intention to get 
away early. I tried to get out, but the doors were locked 
and bolted and the key removed. I sprang the bolts and 
then forced open the double doors. I made enough noise to 
awaken sound sleepers, but no one came. There was no knob 
on the outside of the doors by which to pull them to, so I had 
to leave them wide open. There were no tips that morning. 
No car was to be had, so I was obliged to make a quick walk 
for the station, three-quarters of a mile away. I got there 
just in time to take the train for Carrick-on-Shannon. 

The people in the towns of Ireland do not appear to be 



594 Ballymote — Carrick-on-Shannon. 

very early risers. This impression was formed even before 
my experience in getting out of the hotel in Sligo. In 
Dublin I noticed that the stores were opened not earlier than 
9 o'clock, and some at a later hour. When I asked a store- 
keeper the reason for such late hours, he replied: " What is 
the use of opening earlier. Sure, no customers come out 
before that." 

When I asked some people why they did not do their 
trading earlier, they replied: "How can we? Sure, the 
shops are not opened;" 

About twenty miles from Sligo we passed Collooney, and 
about ten miles further we came to Ballymote, a town of one 
thousand people. It contains the ruins of a famous castle 
and a monastery. In it was written the famous "Book of 
Ballymote." 

We passed Kilgree Junction and soon reached Boyle, 
which is a smart town of three thousand inhabitants, and 
contains the important ruins of a Cistercian Abbey, founded 
in 1161. 

Ten miles away we arrived at Carrick-on-Shannon, the 
county town of Leitrim. It has a population of about fifteen 
hundred. I got off for the purpose of taking the steamer 
on the Shannon for Athlone. I found that I would have to 
wait seven hours, so I took the train for Mullingar. 



Longford — Edgeworths Town. 595 



CHAPTER XLVIII. 

journeys in the west op IRELAND — LONGFORD — MULLIN- 

GAR — ATHLONE — THE HISTORIC BRIDGE — AVESTPORT^ 

CLEW BAY — CROUGH PATRICK — PASS OF KLYMORE 

— LETTERFRECK — CLIFDEN — BALLYNAHINCH. 

Twenty-two miles from Leitrim we reached Longford. 
The town has a population of forty-five hundred, and is the 
county seat of County Longford. The Catholic Cathedral is 
a fine building, and by far the best structure in the town of 
Longford. 

Ten miles further on we reached Edgeworths Town. 
There was the home of Miss Maria Edgeworths, the famous 
Irish novelist, who died in 1849. I remembered the old 
"Edgeworth Club," formed about twenty-five years ago in 
Cleveland. 

At Inny Junction there was a large number of armed 
constabulary waiting for the train northward. They were 
out in force and fully armed, prepared for trouble at the 
meeting of the Orange and Green on July 12. A conflict 
was expected at the gathering in the town of Donegal. 

At one of the stations I 'saw two Franciscan Fathers 
bareheaded. I supposed they had stepped to the station to 
see some visiting Fathers away. I was surprised when they 
got into my compartment without their hats. At first I sup- 
posed they had forgotten them. I then learned that the 
Fathers go bareheaded in Ireland. One asked the other for 
his Breviary. As they had not two Breviaries, I created 
much surprise as I handed mine to one of them. He looked 
it over and then looked me over. We soon struck- up a 
conversation. 



596 MULLINGAR — Athlone. 

When we arrived at Mullingar, Father Peter accompanied 
me to the Cathedral and showed me the Bishop's palace, the 
large school building of the Christian Brothers, and the fine 
Convent of Loretto, in charge of the Visitation Nuns. He 
then had the sexton show me through the Cathedral and 
about the premises. Outside of the Cathedral there is a 
large marble statue of the Sacred Heart, a massive marble 
cross and other marble statuary. The grounds are very 
spacious and well kept. Since my visit the able and patriotic 
Bishop McNulty has been called to his reward. 

Mullingar is a well built town of about five thousand 
inhabitants. It is an important military center and a good 
market town. From Mullingar I took the train for Athlone. 

Athlone has a population of about seven thousand, and is 
well situated on both sides of the Shannon. From the station 
I walked along the banks of the beautiful river to the 
bridge. On the way I was accosted by an old man, who 
began with: "That's a fine river, Father." 

"It is." 

" Would you have a few pence, Father?" 

" I would." 

" I mane would you have a few pence for me? " 

"That's another question. Why?" 

" Not for drink, anyway. I'm poor and feeble." 

" You don't look feeble." 

" Well, your Reverence, there's not a man in Ireland who 
looks as well as I do that is as bad ofi^ as I am." 

" You look strong." 

" Then I'm not; I'm pufi^ed up with the heat. Where are 
you from, Father?" 

Referring to my last visit, I said: "I came from Sligo." 

" Begorra, I'm from Sligo myself; I know Bishop Clancy 
and all who belong to him." 

We kept talking until we reached the bridge. I stood 



The Historic Bridge of Athlone. 597 

there for a time enjoying the fine view up and down the 
river. 

I asked the old man why he was so far away from Sligo, 
his home. " I am here," he said, " because I've a son over 
there in the barracks." 

I then walked through the town to St. Mary's Church, a 
tine Gothic structure, built of stone. The priests were on an 
outing with the school children up the Shannon. However, 
I met Brother Lewis, of the Marist Community, who was 
overseeing the construction of a new stone school building. 
He showed me about the town and gave me some information 
concerning its history. We passed the massive old castle 
which is now used for a barrack. Athlone is a strong mili- 
tary point, being the key to the Province of Connaught. 

On the west side of the river we visited St. Peter's 
Church. It is old, poor, small and dilapidated. The ascent 
to the altar consisted of seven steps. I think St. Peter's 
was the poorest church I saw in Ireland. 

The defense of the Bridge of Athlone by a handful of Irish 
in 1691 ranks with the bravest deeds in history. Colonel 
Richard Grace and Colonel Fitzgerald were in command 
of the Irish. The English tried to bribe Colonel Grace. When 
the offer reached him he was playing " spoil-five " with his 
officers. The '' six-of-hearts " was turned up. Grace wrote 
on it: "It ill becomes a gentleman to betray his trust," and 
then gave it to Guickle's messenger. The " six-of-hearts " is 
still known as "The Grace Card." 

In ten days the English army expended on the besieged 
twelve hundred cannon balls, six hundred bombs and many 
tons of stone shot. On their side of the broken bridge the 
British threw up a regular breastwork, while the Irish had 
only the protection of a barrier constructed of earth and 
wattles. That was set afire by the grenades. While it was 
burning fiercely, the English, concealed by the flame and 



598 The Defense of the Bridge. 

smoke, succeeded in pushing large beams across the chasm, 
and were laying planks upon them when an Irish sergeant 
and ten men leaped across the burning breastwork and pro- 
ceeded to slash the red coats off and to tear away the beams 
and planking. The English were so astounded at the appari- 
tion and bravery of the sergeant and his men that for a 
.moment they were stupefied. But in an instant a shower of 
grape shot and grenades swept these brave men away. 
Immediately others sprang through the burning breastwork, 
and, in spite of the iron hailstorm, tore away the planks and 
beams. Only two of the second party escaped, by swimming 
to the shore. 

" O, many a year upon Shannon's side 
They sang upon moor and they sang upon heath 

Of the twain that breasted that raging tide, 

And the ten that shook bloody hands with death." 

At Rome there was pointed out to me the spot where 
Publicius Horatius, surnamed Codes, with two comrades, de- 
fended the Publician Bridge, 507 .B. C„ until the Roman citi- 
zens cut it down. Poets and orators have descanted on their 
bravery for centuries past. Little is sung or written of the 
heroic Irish defenders of the Bridge of Athlone, yet, consid- 
ering the grape and canister and fire they faced, their 
bravery surpassed that of the Roman heroes. 

At Athlone I was shown through Temperance Hall. The 
building was donated by Mr. Wm. Smith, proprietor of the 
woolen mills of Athlone, He is a non-Catholic. The mem- 
bership of five hundred is not restricted to any class or creed. 
Two priests are on the board of directors; one of them, Rev. 
Canon Kelly, is the president. 

Not far from Athlone is Lissoy, where Goldsmith spent 
his childhood. Known also as Auburn, it is, doubtless, the 
origin of: 

" Sweet Auburn, loveliest village of the plain." 



Castlereagh— A Bigot's Chapel. 599 

Ten miles away on the Shannon are the Seven Churches 
of Clonmacnoise. 

I left Athlone to make my way to County Mayo and to 
the West of Ireland. Roscommon is the chief town of the 
county of the same name; it has a population of over two 
thousand. It has a castle founded in 1267, and an abbey 
founded in the Sixth Century, by St. Colman. 

I passed through Claremorris on my way to Castlebar. 
This well-to-do town of over four thousand inhabitants is the 
county seat of County Mayo. I found that I had not time 
to go to Ballina. I went on to Castlereagh. 

Castlereagh is a town of about twelve hundred. How- 
ever, it contains a large, fine stone church. I remained in the 
town all night. At the station a man addressed me, saying: 
" Mr. Hannigan sent me down to get you, sir, on my car." 

*' You must be mistaken." 

" Oh, no, sir; he is expecting you." 

I knew there was a mistake, so I took another car for 
O'Reilly's Hotel. After supper I went to call on Mgr. 
O'Hanlon, the pastor. He was out walking with another 
priest. I then took a long walk myself. In the course of it 
I passed a large stone building. I asked some men the name 
of the institution. I found it to be the "Workhouse." 
However, that term in Ireland has the same signification as 
infirmary in the United States. It contained one hundred 
and thirty-four inmates. The county supports four such 
institutions. 

Running along the opposite side of the road was a stone 
wall, twelve feet high and about a mile long. To a question, 
one of the men replied: "That was the demesne of Mr. 
Sanford. He was very bigoted against the Church, and 
would not give any ground for our chapel. He died sud- 
denly. His house burnt down, sir, and the very stones of his 
dwelling have been bailt into the v/alls of our chapel." 



600 Westport. 

"That's God's truth," said another of the men. 

When the four men learned that I was from America, 
they appeared to be surprised. One of them said: 

" Your Reverence, we would not have believed it if you 
had not told it." 

"Why so?" 

"Because you talk just as plain as one of ourselves. 
There have been some of our own that came back after being 
a few years in America, and I declare to God you couldn't 
understand a word they said; they had such a lilt." 

I laughed as I turned away, amazed at what a change 
the Yankee twang makes on the tongues of some people. 

On my way back to the hotel I m^et Mgr. O'Hanlon and 
the other priest returning from their walk. They pressed 
me to go to the house with them, but I pleaded the lateness 
of the hour — 10 o'clock. We talked for awhile and then 
separated. 

Early next morning I went by train to Westport. The 
view from the station there is very pleasing. I walked 
down the hill and along a stream of clear, running water, 
which passes through the center of the town. Its banks 
are lined with trees. 

I soon found the Catholic Church, as it faces the stream. 
I was pleasantly greeted by the pastor and his curate, both 
of whom enquired for Father McHale. After a time they 
took me out for a walk to see the town, and especially to 
view Clew Bay. Westport has a population of about four 
thousand five hundred. 

We walked past the demesne of the Marquis of Sligo, 
and on up to the summit of a high hill, from which we had a 
good view of Clew Bay. The sight was inspiring. Clew Bay 
has a form similar to that of a parallelogram, eighteen or 
twenty miles long and from eight to ten miles wide. It con- 
tains scores of islands, from a few acres to miles in extent. 



Crough Patrick — The Potato Blight. 601 

About midway in the entrance of the bay is Clare Island, 
which is four miles long by one and a half wide. It is fer- 
tile and contains four thousand inhabitants. The Island of 
Achill lies further out, and is separated from the mainland 
by a channel a mile wide. It is the largest island on the 
Irish coast, being sixteen miles long and seven miles wide. 
Though it is rather bleak, it contains about five thousand in- 
habitants. There are two lofty mountains upon it — Slieve 
More, two thousand two hundred and four feet high, and 
Slieve Croghan, two thousand one hundred and ninety-two 
feet high. 

From our position we got a good view of Crough Patrick. 
This mountain, which is on the edge of Clew Bay, is two 
thousand five hundred and ten feet high. It is said that St. 
Patrick stood upon this mountain when he banished the 
snakes from Ireland. Religious penitential exercises called 
''Stations" are performed on Crough Patrick. The ascent 
begins six miles from Westport, at the ruined Abbey of Mur- 
risk, founded by the O'Malleys. 

We passed through a potato field. This gave me an 
opportunity of inquiring about the potato blight, of which 
all of us have heard so much. One of the priests stooped 
and took in his hand a blackened leaf of the potato vine. It 
had to me the appearance of a leaf killed by the frost. 

"This," he said, "is the blight. If it only keeps ofl: a 
few weeks all will be well. The blight kills the stalk and 
prevents the potatoes from coming to maturity. The dis- 
tress is then widespread — as widespread as the blight. The 
blight, however, is more prevalent and widespread in some 
other sections than in this." 

I referred to the spraying of the vines with a chemical 
preparation, which I had observed in my travels through the 
rural districts of Ireland. They told me that, as far as they 
had learned, the spraying of the vines preserved about 



602 Evidences of Distress. 

•50 per cent of the potatoes from the spreading of the dread 
blight. 

I had noticed about fifteen or twenty women standing at 
the gate before the priest's house, and asked the meaning of 
it. I was told that they were waiting for assistance for 
their families. This was the only place that I had noticed 
evidences of real distress, and the distress was not then so 
great as in previous seasons. 

There are many large but vacant warehouses along the 
bay at Westport; " dismal mausoleums as vast as pyramids — 
places where the dead trade of Westport lies buried." The 
grand bay must have lured capital with prospects which 
never fructified. 

I was much pleased with Westport and its surroundings. 
I quote a few lines from Thackeray, the English wTiter. He 
penned them after a visit to the towm and its neighborhood 
in 1842: 

"It forms an event in one's life to have seen that place, so 
beautiful is it, and so unlike all other beanties that I know of. 
Were such beauties lying upon English shores it would be a 
world's wonder; perhaps if it were on the Mediterranean or the 
Baltic, English travelers would flock to it by hundreds; why not 
come and see it in Ireland ? Remote as the spot is, Westport is 
only two days' journey from London now, and lies in a country 
far more strange to most travelers than France or Germany can 
be." 

In the afternoon I mounted the " high car" for a drive 
forty miles across the country to the town of Clifden. We 
were to stop for the night at Leenane, eighteen miles from 
Westport. There were passengers enough to fill the car, 
.so I gladly took a seat up with the driver. 

We found the road for miles rather uninteresting, being 
a flat, boggy country. However, I whiled away the time 
with the genial driver. We got to talking on the habits and 
customs of the country. I was much amused by his expe- 



A ''Teetotaller's" Story. 603 

rience in the temperance cause. In his simple, matter-of- 
fact way, in reply to a question of mine, he said : 

" Well, I'm a teetotaller myself. The first time I went to 
church when a boy, the priest asked me if I'd take the 
pledge, and if I would he'd like to give it to me. Never the 
knew I knew what the pledge was, but thought it' better to 
say yes than no, and if the priest had anything to give me, I 
thought I'd take it. Well, I didn't know for a long time 
what I had, and I was surprised when I found it out. How- 
soever, when I found out that I had it, I thought I'd might 
as well keep it, and I'm glad I did. I never broke it. Well, 
the one time I broke it I didn't think I did break it. It 
came about this way: Once I walked six miles, Irish miles 
at that, in a storm. I was shivering cold, and I had a great 
pain in my side, inside within me. A friend persisted in tell- 
ing me that a glass of potheen would drive away the pain. 
After a while I took it, and it wasn't a small noggin' neither. 
Begorra, it wasn't long until I didn't know myself. Well, to 
make a long story short, the pain went away from my side, 
but I got one in my head." 

" How long after you took the potheen," I asked, " was 
it before the pain left your side?" 

"Two days." 

" Why, it would probably have gone in that time, even if 
you had not taken the potheen." 

"Maybe so; at any rate, that was the only time that I 
•came near breaking my pledge." 

We went through the lonesome Erriff Valley, and soon 
approached the Alpine country of Ireland. 

"Do you see that mountain there ahead of us?" said the 
driver. " Well, it's over twenty-one hundred feet high, and 
it's called the ' Devil's Mother.' " 

So it proved, but I could not discover how it got such a 
diabolical name. We passed towering heights, verdant glens 



604 The Pass op Klymore. 

and gloomy mountain gorges, and got into beautiful Leenane 
in the early evening. 

It is a straggling village just within the limits of the 
County Galway. It is in what is called " Joyce's Country," 
and is situated at the head of the Killary, a weird inlet of the 
sea. Here the inlet or bay is confined within narrow limits 
by rugged but picturesque shores. The scenes are romantic 
and sequestered in the extreme. The beautiful and the 
sublime meet and mingle and run away beyond the scope of 
vision in nature's wild profusion. 

The next morning we left Leenane for Letterfreck. We 
passed into the noble Pass of Klymore. The ravine is 
flanked by bold, bare, glossy mountains and by deep-toned 
crags, set ofl" by clinging wood. In the midst of it is the 
fine and striking castle of Michael Henry, M. P. 

" That's the finest place in Ireland," said the driver. 

" It is beautiful, indeed," I said. " But have you traveled 
much through Ireland?" 

" Not much," he said, " except behind these horses." 

It was about 1864 that Mr. Henry bought there in Con- 
nemara fourteen thousand acres, and set on foot improve- 
ments which made him the benefactor of the neighborhood. 
The castle, a handsome pile of native granite with limestone 
facings, was erected entirely by native labor. The gardens 
are delightful. A beautiful little church with a neat spire 
is in an ideal spot under a towering mountain. 

The Pass of Klymore is a rival to the Gap of Dunloe. 
The Lough of Klymore is a placid sheet of water two miles 
long and about one-half a mile broad, and embedded in the 
mountains. 

Letterfreck is beautiful, and has much to recommend it 
as a place of sojourn. It has the nearest hotel to Klymore 
Pass. Prom Penryle Hill nearby you get a magnificent view 
northward, and see Clare Island and the Clifi^s of Achill. 



The Killary. 605 

Towering Mweelrea is seen at the mouth of Killary Harbor. 
The Twelve Pins (mountains) are distinctly seen, and just 
below us was Ballynakill Harbor. 

The next nine miles were rather bleak and dreary. Some 
of the hovels we passed were not fit for human habitation. 
Three unkempt children, two girls and a boy, barefooted and 




THE KILLARY. 

very poorly clad, rushed out of one of them, and in silent 
but mute appeal, ran for some distance beside the car. 
Eagerly they lighted on the offerings dropped by the way- 
side. But some of the passengers paid no attention to the 
raven-haired, large-eyed, eager children. 

I noticed sad-looking men digging turf and piling it up 
for market. They appeared not to give our car a glance. I 
judged the battle for life to be hard, when the driver, in 



606 Clifden. 

answer to my question, told me that a load of turf, delivered 
miles away, would bring only about three shillings. 

At Clifden I met Father Lynsky, who is the pastor of the 
parish. The church is a very large stone building, situated 
on a hill. Father Lynsky enquired about Father MacHale 
and Father Quinn. The latter had been an assistant of his. 
He said he was going to write to both of them for a lecture, 
the proceeds to go to a fund for the completion of the tower 
on his church. Father Lynsky wished to know how I liked 
Leenane, and how I got along at the hotel there. I told him 
that I did not like the quarters assigned me at the company's 
hotel, so I left and went to the opposition house, King's 
Hotel, an uhpretentious but home-like place. He said: 

"I am glad you did that. The run to Westport ought to 
be made in one day, but they have arranged to hold' the pas- 
sengers over night at Leenane, thus hurting both Westport 
and Clifden. I am trying, with the co-operation of both 
towns, to inaugurate a through line." 

Clifden has a population of about one thousand five hun- 
dred. It is finely situated at the mouth of the Owenglin 
River. The river forms a pretty cascade as it enters the sea. 

Leaving Clifden for Galway, fifty miles distant, our first 
stop was at Ballynahinch. The islets of its lake are wooded, 
and across it lies the demesne of the famous and princely 
Martins. Ballynahinch Castle presents a fine view. The 
Martins collected a rent roll from over two hundred thous- 
and acres of land. One of them, to humble the pride of an 
English prince who was boasting of his park, said: "The 
avenue that leads up to my castle is thirty miles long." 

The immense estate became encumbered and was finally 
sold by the Law Life Assurance Company for, I think, 
£180,000, which was £60,000 less than the encumbrance. 
In 1870 a London brewer, named Berridge, bought a hundred 
and sixty thousand acres of the estate from the company. 



Galway. 



60T 



CHAPTER XLIX. 

GALWAY — HISTORIC LIMERICK, THE CITY OF THE VIOLATED 
TREATY — FAMOUS SIEGE OF LIMERICK RECALLED — 
THE TREATY STONE — A DISAPPOINTED IRISH- 
AMERICAN — MALLOW — A SERENADE. 

We passed through Recross, Maam Cross, Oughterard. 
Ross and MoycuUen, which are fine resorts for tourists^ 
before reaching Galway. 

The traveler arriving at Galway gets a very favorable 
opinion of the city, for on alighting at the station he finds 
himself on Eyre Square, a rather picturesque and comely 




A STREET SCENE. 



608 Where "Lynch Law" Originated. 

spot. But in passing through the town, an observant tourist 
soon perceives that much of Galway's glory has fled. 

Galway has a population of about seventeen thousand, 
and is one hundred and twenty-six miles from Dublin. It is 
built on the banks and near the mouth of the River Corrib, 
and part of it looks out over the beautiful bay. 

Galway is probably the place where real "lynch law" 
originated. In 1493 Mayor Lynch ruled in Galway. His 
son murdered a young Spaniard. He was tried before his 
father and condemned to be executed. The mother raised 
the town to save her son, but the father determined that 
justice demanded the death penalty, and hence became the 
executioner, and hanged his son, in spite of the mob, from a 
projecting window of the prison. In a wall on the west side 
of a church in Lombard Street is the " Lynch Stone," bearing 
a skull and cross-bones. It is a memorial of the stern and 
unbounding justice of the Mayor of the city. Mayor Lynch 
was even more stern than the Roman Brutus. 

The Claddagh, the fishermen's suburb, and Salt Hill, the 
marine suburb of Galway, are on the west side of the river. 
I rode to the end of the line on the top of a Salt Hill horse 
car. The line is not run on a limited schedule. One young 
woman got off and rang the door bell and delivered a letter, 
took a message and then came back and took her seat, while 
the car waited. The conductor took his turn, and on the 
way delivered some parcels at dwellings. 

Salt Hill is finely situated and has many .new houses, and 
rejoices in its good bathing. I saw many disporting them- 
selves in the water. There are a number of pretty spots in 
Galway city. 

Oranmore is a village at the head of an inlet from Gal- 
way Bay. Thirteen miles from Galway is the town of At- 
henry. It is a railway junction, and contains one thousand 
inhabitants. There is a fine church in the place. 



Limerick — The Treaty Stone. 



609 



Tuam, which I could not visit, is fifteen miles away. I 
Avas told that it has a population of four thousand. The 
Cathedral and the convent are the best buildings in the town, 
made famous by " John of Tuam." 

On my way to Limerick I stopped at Ennis, in the County 
Clare. It is a fine town of about seven thousand. It con- 




THE TREATY STONE. 



tains a large Catholic Cathedral, and honoi-s O'Connell with 
a monumental column. There is also a memorial erected 
outside the town to the Manchester Martyrs. 

I arrived at the famous city of Limerick quite early in 
the evening. After supper I took a walk through the town, 
and continued my rambles the next day. 

Limerick is one of the prominent historic spots of Ire- 
land. In the early centuries it was the fighting ground 
between the Danes and the warlike clans who followed the 
O'Brien banner. But Sarsfield, Earl of Lucan, is the cen-tral 



610 The Famous Siege. 

and towering hero in Limerick's history. Handsome, large- 
limbed and brawny, he towered over the tallest of his 
dragoons, and was as true as the steel of his sword. 

In August, 1690, King William, with thirty-five thousand 
men, invested the city. The French cleared out, saying the 
city could not be defended. Sarsfield decided to try. Wil- 
liam ordered the heavy cannon from Waterford. Sarsfield 
and a hero by the name of " Gallopin' O'Hagen," with some 
companions, crossed the Shannon at night near Killadoe, ten 
miles away, spiked the cannon and fired the train. This was 
an earnest of what was to come. 

William got other artillery and made a breach in the 
walls, and the outworks were carried. The people joined 
Sarsfield's followers, the women of Limerick fighting as 
valiantly as did the men, and William and his soldiers were 
driven out of the city. 

A year later the city was again besieged by Guickle. 
After a brave defense of three months, Sarsfield found it 
necessary to capitulate. The conditions were that the gar- 
rison should march out with the honors of war, and that the 
Catholics should be permitted freedom of worship. But 
after the hero and his soldiers had gone beyond the sea to 
meet the British at Fontenoy, the treaty was shamefully 
violated. Hence, Limerick is often called the " City of the 
Violated Treaty," The stone upon which the treaty was 
signed, October 3, 1691, stands on a granite pedestal near 
Thomand Bridge. I stood before this monument of English 
perfidity, and recalled with tenderness the bravery of the men 
and women of Limerick over two hundred years ago, fighting 
for their altars and their fires, for Faith and Fatherland. 

" The women fought before the men, 

Each man became a match for ten, 

So back they pushed the villans then 

From the city of Lumneach Linnghlos. "* 

* Limerick of the Azure River. 



The Shannon at Limerick. 



611 



I might, as a supplementary episode, quote the stirring- 
poem of Fontenoy, by Thomas Davis. King Louis gave up 
the battle and was about to mount his horse for flight, when 
General Saxe said: "Sire, we have still the Irish brigade." 
It consisted of the regiments of Clare, Lally, Dillon, Bernick, 
Routh and Buckley with Fitzjames' horse. Lord Clare was 




THE SHANNON. 



in command. They were ordered not to fire, but to charge 
the English with fixed bayonets. With the cry: " Remember 
Limerick and British faith," they rushed up the slope of the 
hill, amid showers of grape and canister, and soon swept the 
English down the far side of the hill, and turned defeat into 
victory. No wonder, when George II. heard the news, he 
exclaimed: "Cursed be the laws which deprived me of such 
subjects." 



612 Around Limerick. 

In Limerick there are many points of interest. There is 
a monument to Sarsfield, and Sarsfield Bridge is a fine struc- 
ture. At the southern end of it is a monument to Viscount 
Fitzgibbon, who fell in the Crimean war. In Richmond Place 
is a monument to O'Connell. There are two Cathedrals, 
Catholic and Protestant. I visited the Church of St. Alphon- 
sus, the Dominican Church and the Jesuit Chapel in the 
Crescent. I called at old St. Mary's to visit Rev. Dr. O'Hal- 
linan, the pastor, who has an uncle living in Cleveland. He 
was then on a visit to the Continent. A convent, noted for 
its industrial work, is near the church. I went past the old 
castle, erected in the time of King John. In Limerick, as in 
Edinburgh, there are two towns, the old town and the new 
town. 

The principal thoroughfare in the city is George's Street, 
from which the quays can be easily reached. The People's 
Park has some twelve acres and is very tasty. The Shannon 
flows through the city. The population of Limerick is about 
forty thousand. It has fine stores and hotels, and does a 
large business. 

From Limerick I went to Mallow, which is forty miles 
from the " City of the Violated Treaty." There were four 
persons in our compartment when we left Limerick. Just 
after I began to read my Breviary, an old man nearly opposite 
took out his beads and blessed himself deliberately. The 
sign of the cross, whicli he made, would put to shame the 
caricature which some of our people try to palm off as 
the sign of salvation. 

Before I had finished my office, the old man had said his 
beads, and closed the devotion with another generous and 
devout sign of the cross. He was looking out of the window 
as I closed my Breviary. I thought: " Here is a fine example 
of Irish faith and piety." 

He turned and said, with a bow: '" It's a fine day, Father." 



A Disappointed Ifjsh-American. 613 

"It is, indeed: and this is a fine country through which 
we are passing," I said. 

" Yes, it is a fine country, but I don't admire the "people 
in it very much," he said, to my surprise. He continued: 
" I've had many an argument in the past two weeks. I've 
told them that they ought to move sooner and quicker, and 
if they did they would be better off." 

" Why/' I asked, in amazement, " are you not an Irishman 
yourself? " 

" Yes, oh, yes, I am. I used to live hereabouts about 
forty years ago. I went then to America, to Maryland. 
I lived in Baltimore. Cardinal Gibbons is our Archbishop. 
But I am disappointed in my visit back here. I'm going 
home soon. I've told my friends here that if they'd work 
half as hard as we do in America, they would be better 
off. Why, they would not believe that many of us rise at 
5 and 6 o'clock in the morning to get ready so as to be on 
hand when the boss shouts 'time.' Just think, one of them 
asked me: ' Don't you go back for breakfast? ' " 

" Well," I said, " you must allow for national habits and 
training. I suppose customs have not changed much since 
you went away?" 

"No, indeed, they have not." 

" A few days ago I was in Athlone," I said. " I found 
that the masons went to work an hour or more before 
breakfast, returning then to their homes for the morning 
meal, and also that they worked about an hour after supper." 

After forty years in America, the old man had no 
patience with the ancient and leisurely ways of Erin. There 
is not so much "hustle" anywhere else as in the United 
States. 

We passed through Charleville and soon arrived at Mal- 
low, in the County Cork. This is a very pretty town by the 
Elackwater, which here flows as a broad stream through a 



614 Mallow — A Serenade. 

beautiful valley. The town mainly consists of one street. 
The station is at the higher end, and the castle and bridge at 
the lower end. The population is about forty-five hundred. 
I took a walk through High Street, past the Postoffice 
and the Clock Tower, and went into the church. I visited 
the Spa, formerly famous, but now almost deserted. The 
spring is highly charged with nitrogen. Were it properly 
advertised it would find much favor. I asked the parties in 
charge why they did not advertise more, and they said that 
the town wouldn't help them enough. 

On my way back I met a tall, well-built, cheerful-looking 
clergyman. I introduced myself, and found that I was talk- 
ing to the curate. Father O'Callaghan. He invited me to 
dine. Shortly afterwards Father O'Callaghan had to go out 
in the country on a sick call. After the jaunting car had 
taken him away, a song was started by a male voice on the 
street in front of the house. 

" Be off wid yourself out o' that," I heard the house- 
keeper commanding. 

Coming in, she said to me: "That fellow wants to give 
your Reverence a serenade." 

"Well, then, let him," I said; "I am seldom serenaded." 
She went out, and I heard her say: "Shamus, you may go 
on wid your concert." 

In a rich, strong voice the singer from the middle of the 
road sang " Clare's Dragoons." 

When I had sent him a tip, he struck up "The Blind 
Piper." I will give only one of the ten or a dozen verses: 
" One winter's day, long, long ago, 

When I was a little fellow, 
A piper wandered to our door, 

Grey-headed, blind and yellow; 
And oh! how glad was my young heart. 
Though earth and sky looked dreary, 
To see the stranger and his dog — 
Poor ' Pinch ' and Caoch O'Leary." 



Beautiful Killarney. 615 



CHAPTER L. 

BEAUTIFUL KILLARNEY — ANCIENT MUCKROSS ABBEY AND ITS 

MEMORIES — THE GAP OF DUNLOE — ITS WONDERFUL 

ECHOES — THE MIRRORED LAKES — GLEN- 

GARIFF — CHARMING SCENERY. 

I left Mallow, bound for the Lakes of Killarney. When 
I reached the station, I met four Christian Brothers going to 
that famous pleasure resort, nearly forty miles away. We 
passed through Newmarket, the birthplace of Curran, and 
arrived in Killarney in the evening. The Railway Hotel is 
well situated and well appointed. There are any number of 
" good places " in the town, and some fine hotels along the 
shores of the lakes, among them the " Royal Victoria," 
" The- Lake," and " Muckross." 

Killarney has a population of about seven thousand. The 
town itself is not very tidy or attractive, but the surround- 
ing scenery is charming. The Catholic Cathedral is the 
most imposing building in the town. It was built after de- 
signs by the noted architect, A. W. Pugin. It is surrounded 
by ample and well-kept grounds. It contains a memorial to 
Bishop Moriarity, and a beautiful east window, and a marble 
altai: as a thank-offering from the Earl of Kenmare, for the 
recovery from sickness of his only daughter. Lady Margaret, 
July, 1876. 

I wandered out after supper, and on the main street and 
near Cook's office, I got into a talk with some of the native 
Killarney jarvys who wanted to serve me. I told them that 
they had a bad reputation for extortion. 

''Indeed, we do not deserve it," they said. "The Cooks 
and the Gazes and such have belied us. In fact, we are the 



616 Ross Castle. 

honestest people in the world; not a word of lie in it. 
Father, we'll do you good service. We'll drive you to Ross 
Castle now for two shillings." 

I asked: "Why do you not set yourselves right in public 
estimation? Hold a meeting and adopt rules and have fixed 
prices." 

"You're right; after all, we should have the meeting. 
Eegora, we'll take you to Ross Castle for eighteen pence, 
and if you don't like it, when you come back ye need not 
pay. Yes, I'll take you there and back for one shilling." 

His partner protested aside for such a cutting in price. 
Sotto voce, he got back the reply: "Sure, don't I know that 
he'll pay the eighteen pence when he gets back?" 

I had not expected to go sightseeing at that late hour, 
but there was still plenty of light. So I mounted, and off 
we went for Ross Castle. The road, the scenery and the 
drive were charming. I got my first view of the Lower 
Lake, as Ross Castle stands on its border. 

The soft evening light covered the placid bosom of the 
lake as I stood high on the ivy-mantled walls of the old cas- 
tle, which was formerly the residence of the O'Donaghues. 
The background of mountains and islands added variety, and 
gave a peculiar charm to the. combined scene. I intended to 
return again, and so did not linger very long. 

I found, when I got down from the castle walls, a young 
woman waiting for the key. 

"How much is the charge?" I asked. 

"Oh! I'll leave that to yourself, your Reverence." 

I often found in Ireland, when a little more than the 
stipulated sum was expected, the interested party would 
say: "I'll leave that to yourself." 

I enjoyed the ride so niuch that the jarvy easily wheedled 
me into extending it to Muckross Abbey. On the way we 
overtook a priest. I found that he was an Augustinian 



MucKROSS Abbey — Friends op Father Hayes. 617 

from London. So I persuaded him to take the other side of 
the jaunting car, the better to balance it and to make the 
ride more enjoyable. 

After the priest from London mounted the car we were 
soon engaged in conversation. Our talk was interrupted by 
the jarvy saying to me: 

" Father, if you will allow me to tell a little lie I can 
save you two shillings." 

" You ought to know," I said, " that no one can give 
permission to another to tell a lie. But what is the lie you 
are tempted to tell ? " 

" The ould gate-keeper at Muckross Abbey charges a 
shilling each to enter the grounds. If I tell him ye are 
friends of Father Hayes, he'll let ye pass, because Father 
Hayes has great influence with the owner." 

" Well," I said, "we are friends of Father Hayes; but he 
•does not know that we are in this neighborhood." 

" Begora, that being the case, it is so near the truth that 
there is not a lie in it. It is a pity to keep it in and lose 
the shillings." 

" Is Father Hayes a Franciscan?" I asked. 

He looked at me earnestly and reproachfully and said? 
rather indignantly: "Indeed, he is not — he is a Catholic 
priest." The Augustinian and myself nearly slipped oflf the 
car laughing at this reply. 

When we got to the abbey grounds, the jarvy said to 
the gate-keeper: " These gentlemen, I'd let you know — 

"Are tourists!" I said, throwing the two shillings to the 
gate-keeper. 

" — Can pay their way," continued the jarvy, as though 
he had so intended to finish his sentence, the rogue. 

Muckross is a fine old abbey, in the midst of a heavily 
wooded grove. There is a very good winding road running- 
through the picturesque park which leads to the abbey. 



Off For the Gap of Dunloe. 



618 



The building was founded over four hundred and fifty 
years ago by Donald McCarthy. Re-erected in 1602, the 
buildings are still in a fair state of preservation. What 
solemn reflections stole upon us as in the gloom we walked 
through the chapel, cloisters, refectory and rooms, and then 
amid the old tombs of the long-buried and forgotten Monks. 

" Our life is but a summer's day; 

Some only breakfast and awaj^ 

Others to dinner stay and are full fed; 

The oldest man but sups and goes to bed. 

Large his account who lingers out the day; 

Who goes the soonest has the least to pay." 

The next day we began our journey through the Gap of 

Dunloe, and back through 
all the lakes to the Island 
of Innisf alien. 

Mounted on a high car 
behind fine horses, with 
every seat taken and the 
bugler playing, we started 
" at 9 o'clock in the morn- 
ing from Killarney for the 
Gap of Dunloe. The dis- 
tance to the Gap Cottage 
is eleven and a half miles. 
Our guide had a sweet 
brogue, and entertained 
us on the way . He point- 
ed out places of interest, 
and in his descriptions evidently drew on his imagination- 
He pointed out, among the mountains, the "Devil's Punch 
Bowl," the " Devil's Bit," the " Haunted House," etc. 

'■ You have heard of Kate Kearney?" he said. "Kate 
was celebrated for her beauty. The secret of it was that 
every morning befpre breakfast she used to walk to the top 




■^^mm 



A COACH AND FOUR. 



"Kate Kearney's Cottage." 



619 



of yon Purple Mountain, which is two thousand seven hun- 
dred and thirty-nine feet high. When she let down her 
beautiful hair it used to hang down from the top to the 
bottom of the mountain." 

As we approached " Kate Kearney's Cottage," I noticed 
men and boys coming from all directions, galloping their 




THE GAP OF DUNLOE. 



ponies and headed for us. I learned that they were seeking 
customers for the ride through the Gap. 

We alighted at the cottage. A good-looking old lady 
palmed herself off as a near relative of the famous Kate. 
We were shown some nice cabinet work which is manufac- 
tured there, and which was for sale. 

We mounted our ponies and began our ride through the 



620 The Gap of Dunloe— The Echoes. 

Gap, a fine wild pass. We passed a number of small lakes 
nestling amid the mountains. The Purple Mountain and the 
Tomies were to the east of us, while Macgillcuddy's Rocks 
were on the west. The scenery is wild and picturesque. 
From the head of the Gap a fine view is obtained, and west- 
ward is commanded a fine view of the desolate Cummundufi: 
Valley. Then the tourist must descend a great loop to reach 
the Gearhamen River. A charge of a shilling is made at the 
gate of the Herbert property, where the boats are taken for 
the tour of the lakes. 

There were many incidents noted in passing through the 
Gap of Dunloe. A number of times the bugle was sounded 
to give us an opportunity of hearing the notes oft-repeated 
a,s by another bugle, so clear are the echoes. 

A one-legged man, "the veteran," fired off a toy cannon 
to wake the echoes, and then came hopping up 'to us for 
" the price of the powder." 

Then, hidden among the rocks at one place, were a violin 
player and a singer. The response of the answering echoes, 
both to the vocal and instrumental music, was charming. 

As I got near the head of the Gap an old man fired off 
another toy cannon, and with outstretched hands approached 
and said: "I'm the last man in the field." 

I found that there were a number of women in the field. 
A group of them stood not far off on the bridle path. A 
lass approached me and said: "Start me, Father, for good 
luck this morning. Fve some goat's milk and — and potheen." 
She looked about to see that no " peelers " were in sight, as 
potheen is contraband. 

"No potheen? Well, I've it double and single. I'll give 
3^ou the milk." 

Each wanted me for a customer. I found that there 
were " short cuts " among the mountains. 

A woman met me and said: "A parting drink. Father." 



The Mirrored Lakes. 621 

I said to her: "I think I met you before, this morning, 
back three miles in the mountains." 

She had sought to disguise herself, but said: "Not a 
word of lie in that, your Reverence." 

When we reached the boats, our lunch was ready. After 
that we started on the tour of the lakes. They are three in 
number, connected by a swift-flowing stream, the Long 
Range. The Upper Lake is two and a half miles long by 
half a mile wide. The Middle Lake is two miles by nearly 
one mile. The Lower Lake is five and one-eighth by three 
miles. The lakes look like broad mirrors beneath the high 
mountains. 

When we reached the still waters beneath the " Eagle's 
Nest," the boatmen stopped rowing. The bugler landed and 
awakened the echoes which haunt the frowning eyry. The 
bugle call was taken up by the barricades of rock, and was 
repeated eight times over. They say that the fairies take 
up the dying tones of sweet sounds and pass them along- 
through the mountains. 

There may be times when the waters leap and foam pass- 
ing through the Old Weir Bridge, but at the time of my visit 
we had to get out and walk, that the boatmen might force 
the boat through the shallow water. The neighborhood is a 
Vallambrosa. 

The Lower Lake is bedecked with thirty-five islands. 
The largest of these is Innisfallen, some thirty acres in ex- 
tent, finely wooded and richly pastured. 

" Quiet as a Nun 
Breathless with adoration." 

We landed and wandered through the ruins of the old 
abbey. The scholar knows that " The Annals of Innisfallen '^ 
form one of the chief sources of Irish history. They were 
written some six hundred years ago. A copy is in Trinity 
College, Dublin; another in Oxford. 



622 An Ideal Place. 

The Lakes of Killarney have been described so often that 
I will not attempt to tell more of the variety and beauty in 
which they are bowered. 

In the boat with me were Mr. and Mrs. W J. Wright, of 
Pittsburg, and on the trip through the Gap of Dunloe were 
a number of Americans. One young fellow displayed a 
small American flag as we rode through the town. All 
were high in their praises of Killarney. 

Ross Castle is about a mile from Innisfallen. We were 
landed there, and found our " high car and four" waiting to 
take us to our hotel. 

After supper the Augustinian and I visited the Cathedral, 
and then were allowed to enter the demesne of the Earl of 
Kenmare, who is a Catholic. The grounds are beautifully 
laid out and carefully kept, and are of vast extent. Priests 
have the freedom of this ideal place. We spent the even- 
ing among its groves and along its broad, circling walks. 

Early on Saturday morning, after having celebrated Mass 
at the Franciscan Church, I took the "high car " at the 
railway hill for a drive of about forty miles to Glengarifli. 
By the time we had passed the other hotels nearly all the 
seats were taken. Our ride was by the " Prince of Wales' 
Route," which is popular on account of the fine scenery pre- 
sented to the tourist. 

While taking on some tourists and paying our fares at a 
hotel a few miles from Killarney, a blind man by the road- 
side gave us a song, " a real old Irish ditty." He sang with 
vim, and got some tips for his vocal effort. 

The driver stopped on the top of a high hill, from which 
we got a fine view of the Killarney Valley. Mountain and 
valley, woodland and water, combined in presenting an ex- 
quisite panorama. 

It is needless to describe the varied scenery in the ride 
of twenty miles to Kenmare. We stopped there for dinner. 



Kenmare. 



623 



It is a pleasant town of some twelve hundred inhabitants. I 
visited the fine church; near it is the Convent of Poor 
Clares. Many have heard of the Nuns of Kenmare. The 
girls of Kerry, under the direction of the Sisters, make the 
exquisite lace for which tjie place is fam.ous. It won the 
first prize in London at the South Kensington competition. 




THE TUNNEL. 



Some of it is so fine as to be worth more than its weight in 
gold. The singing of the children in the convent is also 
remarkable. It was here that the unfortunate Miss Cusick 
formerly had her home. 

Kenmare is at the head of the beautiful bay to which it 
gives its name. 

After dinner we were off again. We crossed Kenmare 



624 An Incident. 

Sound by a suspension bridge. About eight miles away we 
came to a Catholic Chapel, with the priest's house beside it. 
I requested the driver to wait a moment. I called on the 
priest and got the hosts and wine necessary for Mass. 
Glengariff, though ten miles away, is part of the parish. 

We were soon in a rather bleak country, and began to 
make our way up a long hill. After a time we passed 
through some tunnels. The cut here presented shows our 
party as we were leaving one of them. I leaned out consid- 
erably to get a good view of the process. 

At the south entrance of the tunnel the road crosses the 
watershed, and passes from County Kerry to County Cork. 

There we found a wretched cabin in which an old woman 
sold refreshments — pop, milk, etc. The car stopped to have 
the horses watered. With two or three others I got down 
to enter the cabin. An Englishman in the party said to the 
old woman in charge: "Do you know that you are twelve 
hundred feet above the sea?" 

"Never a know I know." 

" Put the old lady up two hundred feet more," I said. 

"The priest says you are up two hundred feet more, 
now," he said. 

"Musha, how can that be?" she asked. 

" He says the spot is fourteen hundred feet above the 
sea." 

I spoke to her and said: "This is a dark and dismal 
dwelling." 

" Indeed it is, and I wish I was some place out of this." 

"Where would you go?" 

" Never the know I know, but I'd go some place." 

For the next six miles we passed some very fine scenery. 
It may be understood that we had quite a descent to make 
before we reached Glengariff. Some of the tourists gqt off 
at " Eccles Hotel," but, with others, I went on a mile and a 



A German Waiter. 



625 



half farther to " Roaches," from which there is a fine view of 
the bay. 

At supper I took a good look at my waiter. I looked 
again and asked: "Sind sie long hier, meinHerr?" (Are 
you long here, mister?) 

The waiter looked at me in surprise and answered: "Ich 
bin hier drei monat." ( I have been here three months.) 



^J: 



^^'^^ 





GLENGARIFF. 

I asked: "Sind auch andere hier von Deutschland?" 
(Are there others here from Germany?) 

" Yah, drie andere sind hier." ( Yes, three others are 
here.) 

" 1st Herr Roach auch ein Deutcher?" (Is Mr. Roach 
also a German?) 

"Oh, nein; er is ein Irelander." (Oh, no; he is an Irish- 
man.) 



626 Glengariff — Bantry Bay. 

I was much amused to find my waiter at (jlengariff from 
Germany. However, I also found that some of the waiters at 
Killarney and at Rosapenna, in County Donegal, hailed from 
the same country. 

Some of my readers may be surprised to learn that three 
thousand Germans settled in County Limerick in 1709. They 
were allowed eight acres of land for each man, woman and 
child. The settlement was called the " Palatine Plantations.'^ 

I remained in Glengariff from Saturday until Monday. It 
is a charming spot. So completely does it combine all the 
beauties of a sheltered nook and charming islet-dotted bay, 
dominated by finely shaped and stern mountains, that more 
space would be required to do it justice. The tourist must 
travel far before he will find a more charming spot than 
Glengariff. Thackeray says: 

"What sends picturesque tourists to the Rhine and Saxon- 
Switzerland, when at Glengariff there is a countr}-, the magnifi- 
cence of which no pen can give an idea ? I would like to be a 
great Prince and bring a train of painters over to make, if they 
could, and according to their several capabilities, a set of pictures 
of the place." 

From its climatic advantages Glengariff is a fine health 
resort. Goldsmith's lines may be applied to Glengariff: 
' ' Where smiling Spring its earliest visit paid 
And parting Summer's lingering bloom delayed." 

On Sunday I celebrated Mass in the hotel, at which the 
Catholic guests assisted. Early Monday morning we mounted 
the " high-car " for the drive to Bautry. In our ride of ten 
miles we enjoyed some very fine scenery, and got a number 
of good views of Bantry Bay. The French fleet, with Wolfe 
Tone aboard, sought to land there in the winter of 1797, but 
was scattered by a hurricane. 

Bantry is a market town of about twenty-five hundred 
inhabitants, and is situated near the head of Bantry Bay. I 



Bandon. . 627 

did not remain long in the town, and soon started for the 
City of Cork. 

On my way from Bantry to Cork I passed through Ban- 
don. It appears that years ago the Earl of Cork, who was 
bigoted, took much interest in Bandon. Once, on entering 
the place. Dean Swift wrote on the gate of the town the fol- 
lowing: 

" Jew, Turk or Atheist 

May enter here, 

But not a Papist." 

When the Dean came out of Bandon, he was rather sur- 
prised to find written beneath the above the expressive re- 
joinder : 

" Whoever wrote it, wrote it well, 
^The same is on the gates of hell." 



628 - Cork. 



CHAPTER LI. 

CORK AND ITS MANY POINTS OF INTEREST — THE SHANDOX 

BELLS — BLARNEY CASTLE — THE BLARNEY STONE — TIP- 

PERARY — ROCK OF CASHEL — HOLY CROSS ABBEY — 

KILKENNY — KILDARE — CELL OF ST. BRIGID. 

The train brought us to the " City on the Lee " in about 
two hours and a half. I found quarters at the Victoria 
Hotel and soon began to wander through the city. 

The City of Cork, situated on an island, spreads to the 
opposite banks and extends along the River Lee. Its popu- 
lation is eighty thousand. Patrick Street is very wide, 
somewhat crescent-shaped, and extends westerly to the 
Grand Parade, a fine, straight street. The South Wall runs 
at right angles with the Grand Parade. One of the newest 
and most regular thoroughfares is Great George Street. 
Parallel with it is the celebrated Mardyke, which extends 
about a mile along the banks of the Lee. The lofty elms 
which line it form a natural arch. 

Six bridges span the river and connect the island with the 
land beyond. St. Patrick's Bridge, erected in 1860, is espe- 
cially handsome. There are some fine buildings; among them 
may be mentioned the Queen's College. Public Library, the 
Protestant Cathedral, the Catholic Church of SS. Peter and 
Paul, St. Vincent de Paul's Church, the Dominican Church 
and the Court House. 

- In St. Patrick's Street the place of honor is assigned to 
Foley's fine bronze statue of Father Mathew, the " Apostle 
of Temperance." What a wonderful work he did in Ireland ! 
He brought the blessings of temperance to other lands, 
among them to the people of the United States. His work 



"Father Prout." 



629 



flourished in Ireland until the sufferings of the 'people in the 
famine years led them to seek solace, where solace is never 
found, in drink. 

I paid a visit to the Capuchin Church and Monastery. 
Father Mathew was a Capuchin friar himself. This church 
is still the center of temperance work in Cork. 

One day when out alone I wandered to the Church of 
" The Shandon Bells." Who has not heard of the famous 




PATRICK STREET. 

poem of "Father Prout?" No doubt many a traveler stops 
at Cork, influenced by the lyric of Rev. Francis Mahony. He 
was born in Cork in 1804. He studied for the priesthood 
in France and in Rome. After ordination he devoted his 
time to literature. He was a companion of Thackeray, Cole- 
ridge, Carlyle, Southey, Lockhart, Dickens and others. A 
short, spare man, stooping as he went, with his right arm 
clasped in his left hand behind him, he was a profound 
scholar, brimful of wit, of sarcasm and of humor. 



630 "The Shandon Bells." 

"The Bells of Shandon" was written while he was quite 
young, and a student in the Irish College at Rome: 

"With deep affection and recollection 

I often think of the Shandon Bells, 
Whose sounds so wild would, in days of childhood, 

Fling round my cradle their magic spells — 
On this I ponder, where'er I wander, 

And thus grow fonder, sweet Cork, of thee; 
With thy bells of Shandon, 
That sound so grand on 
The pleasant waters of the River Lee. 

I have heard bells chiming full man}- a clime in, 

Tolling sublime in Cathedral Shrine; 
While at a glib rate brass tongues would vibrate, 

But all their music spoke nought to thine; 

For memory dwelling on each proud swelling 

Of thy belfry knelling its bold notes free. 

Made the bells of Shandon 

Sound more grand on 

The pleasant waters of the River Lee. 

I have heard bells tolling " Old Adrian's mole " in. 

Their thunders rolling from the Vatican, 
With cymbals glorious, swinging uproarious 

In the gorgeous turrets of Notre Dame; 
But thy sounds were sweeter than the dome of Peter 
Flings o'er the Tiber, pealing solemnly, 
O! the bells of Shandon, 
Sound far more grand on 
The pleasant waters of the River Lee. 

There's a bell in Moscow, while on tower and kiosko. 

In St. Sophia theTurkman gets, 
And loud in air, calls men to prayer. 

From the tapering summit of tall minarets; 
Such empty phantom I freely grant them. 
But there's an anthem more dear to me: 
It's the bells of Shandon, 
That sound so grand on 
The pleasant waters of the River Lee. 



Church of "The Shandon Bells." 



631 




church of the shandon bells. 

The Church of St. Anne, which contains the bells, was 
built in 1722. It is remarkable only for its steeple, which is 
of limestone on the south and west sides and of redstone on 
its north and east sides. It is one hundred and seventy feet 
high. The eight bells are by the celebrated bell founder, 



632 Among the Churches. 

Abel Rudhall, of Gloucester, and are dated 1750. "Father 
Prout " ( Rev. Francis Mahony), is buried close to the tower. 
He died in 1866. 

In my walks I met Rev. Father Tierney. In talking with 
him, he said that while the people were always religious, 
there appeared to be a special awakening among them at 
that time. He said that all the churches were crowded, and 
there appeared to be an eager desire to hear the Word of 
God. 

Father Tierney showed me the Church of SS. Peter and 
Paul. It is a very fine structure, designed by Pugin. In the 
church I met one of the priests, Father O'Sullivan. He 
pointed out some of the beauties of the structure. The 
church cost about $200,000, and the pipe organ $10,000. 
We have no church in the diocese of Cleveland so expensive. 

I went with Father O'Sullivan to the pastoral residence. 
We then took a walk through a part of the city. 

One evening after leaving the Cathedral I went down by 
the river and came to a fine church with a Grecian portico, 
supported by six Ionic columns. It proved to be the Domini- 
can Church. As I was about to enter the church eight ragged 
urchins suddenly gathered about me. They all talked at 
once, so that I could not understand them. I put them off, 
saying I would see them after service. I found the spacious 
church filled with people. The preacher was about finishing 
his sermon, but I gleaned that he had made some reference 
to the war between Spain and the United States. After 
Benediction, the boys again gathered around me on the side- 
walk. After some time I made out that each of them wanted 
an Agnus Dei. I told the youngsters that I was not sup- 
plied, but the next time they met me in Cork to repeat their 
request. They will be older then, and, perhaps, more timid. 

Not far away, in the graveyard of the Christian Brothers, 
the Irish novelist and poet, Gerald Griffin, lies buried. 



Grave of Gerald Griffin. 633 

Gerald Griffin died before his prime, but not before he 
had placed his name as one of the famous on the list of Irish 
writers. At the age of twenty-two he had written the trag- 
edy, " Gisippus," and the following year he composed that 
most perfect of Irish novels, " The Collegians." He died in 
his thirty-seventh year, and is buried in Cork, under a plain 
slab bearing the inscription: "Brother Gerald Griffin." As 
I gazed on the tomb I thought of his prophecy: 

" In the time of my bo3^hood I had a strange feeling, 
That I was to die in the noon of my day; 

Not quietly into the silent grave stealing, 
But torn, like a blasted oak, sudden awa3^" 

One day I went into a restaurant for lunch. A man 
nearby spoke to me. He finally said: " Father, I'm in a law 
mix. Service of ejectment is made on me, and I fear I'll 
have to leave my farm. Would you look over these papers, 
your Reverence, and see if my claim that I have paid the 
rent is not entirely right ? " 

To my question, he said that he had a lawyer, but he was 
not satisfied with his advice, as he wanted him to confess 
judgment and get a settlement. The man was intelligent, 
and, of course, greatly in earnest. I told him that I was 
traveling through the country, and could not be of much help 
to him. However, I glanced over his papers, and found that 
he had been paying £140 a year for a number of years for a 
farm at Blarney. I found, also, that one year he had paid 
twice, but I could not tell if it was for back rent or not. I 
advised him to go to the parish priest and get his advice. 

" Well, I'm sorry," he said, " that you are leaving Cork 
so soon, or I'd have you go into the whole case." 

I considered $700 a year pretty high rent for a farm of 
some fifty acres. 

The Munster bar was noted for eminent lawyers from the 
days of Curran and Burke. When Baron O'Grady was on 



634 Blarney Castle — The Blarney Stone. 

the bench on one occasion a witness said to a lawyer who 
was worrying him with personal remarks: " If you say that 
again Fll give you a polthogue in the puss." Judge O'Grady, 
when appealed to by the lawyer, merely said: "The best 
advice I can give you is to keep back a few feet out of reach 
of the young man's fist." 

About seven miles from Cork is Blarney Castle. Who 
has not heard of the Blarney Stone? Being so near I had to 
visit the famous castle. Three pence are charged to enter 
the grounds. The castle is little more than a square tower, 
about one hundred and twenty feet high. It was formerly a 
stronghold of the McCarthys. The celebrated Blarney Stone 
is fixed to the parapet by irons, and is some feet from the 
top. To kiss it is a task not unaccompanied by danger. 
The guide holds by the feet the man who wants the blarney, 
so that he can hang down far enough to kiss the magic 
stone. If the guide looses his grip the adventurer goes 
down one hundred and twenty feet to death. I heard of a 
guide who frightened the suspended tourist by shouting out: 
" Hould on a minute till I spit on my hands." 

" Kiss that block if you're a dunce 
And you'll emulate at once 
The genius who to fame by dint of blarney rose." 

' ' There is a stone there 
That whoever kisses 
O, he never misses 
To grow eloquent." 

The man on the castle walls was ready to hold me, but I 
did not give him a chance to spit on his hands. 

When I got back to Cork, I met Father M. F. O'Leary, 
of New Orleans, who was making a tour of part of Ireland. 

With a number of other priests I spent a pleasant even- 
ing, and then before I retired ordered the bus to take me to 
the station the next morning at 5:30. As there was no sign 



Three Americans' Predicament. 



635 



of the bus at fhat hour, I started for the walk of a mile to 
the station, but was not overtaken. 

I took the train from Queenstown for Tipperary. I had 
to change cars at Limerick Junction, about sixty miles from 
Coi'k. There three Americans got off the train to " see a 
man." They came out and saw that the train had started. 
How they ran down the track, shouting and waving their 




BLARNEY CASTLE. 



arms. But as the train increased its speed they decreased 
theirs. They came back disgusted, but not dumb. I think 
they went in to see that " man " again. No signal had been 
given of the starting of the train, as passengers are sup- 
posed to keep to their compartments on European trains. 

Tipperary is about three miles from Limerick Junction. 
It is rather a smart town of over seven thousand. 

The Catholic Church is a fine stone structure with a high 
spire. The building is Gothic and well furnished. I took a 



636 TiPPERARY. 

walk with one of the priests, who showed me all through old 
and new Tipperary. 

The Land League in vogue some years ago was enthus- 
iastic, but evidently not guided by men of business methods. 
Much money was spent on the new town in erecting stone 
dwellings and stores, and some wooden dwellings, to carry 
out the boycott. The new town is now in a great measure 
deserted. 

In the old town Mr. H. E. Hagen, a grocer, owned some 
land that faces on a side street which runs at right angles 
to the main street. The Land Leaguers got permission to 
build twenty houses on that property. The day before I 
arrived Mr. Hagen had the tenants served with ejectment 
notices by the sheriff. The Land League had neglected to 
secure any title, so Mr. Hagen obtained possession of the 
buildings, which had not cost him a cent. 

The " Hills of Sweet Tipperary " and the robustness of 
the men form objects for the pen of the poet: 

" Tall is his form, his heart is warm, 

His spirit light as an}? fairy — 
His wrath as fearful as the storm 

That sweeps the hills of Tipperary. 

The country around Tipperary is beautiful and attractive, 
and the soil is fertile. 

I hired a jaunting car to take me from Tipperary to 
Cashel, ten miles away. The old coach road brought me 
through Thomastown, where Father Mathew was born, in 
1790. We passed through the highly cultivated country 
called the " Golden Vale." 

On our drive we passed a stone wall about twelve feet 
high and a mile long. I could see the tops of the waving 
trees. Being curious, I turned to the driver and asked: 
" What does that wall enclose ? " 

Without moving a muscle, and evidently considering the 



The Rock of Cashel. 



637 



answer entirely proper, he said: " Land, sir." I looked at 
him in astonishment, but his face was as calm as a graven 
image. I did not ask that young man any more questions. 
We sped on until we got a view of the Rock of Cashel. 
It appeared quite colossal from the fact that it is surrounded 
by a verdant and fruitful plain, yet it is three hundred feet 
over the level. 



#< 




THE ROCK OF CASHEL. 



I went up to the magnificent ruins which crown the sum- 
mit of the Rock of Cashel. They appear to have combined 
both a monastic building and a regal residence, and form, 
perhaps, the noblest ruins in Ireland. The view from the 
top of the ruins is both extensive and beautiful. 

We are told that about the middle of the Fifth Century 



638 Cashel. 

a Synod was held at Cashel by St. Patrick, St. Albe and St. 
Declan. In 1172 Henry II. received the homage of Donald 
O'Brien, King of Limerick, at Cashel. 

The ruins of the Rock of Cashel cover a space of two 
hundred and ten by one hundred and seventy feet. 

In an address delivered at Cashel, Richard Lalor Shiel 
said: 

" Here my cradle was first rocked, and the first object that in 
in}' childhood I learned to admire was that noble ruin, an emblem 
as well as memorial of Ireland, which ascends before us, at once a 
temple and a fortress, the seat of religion and nationalit}-, where 
councils were held, where Princes assembled, the scenes of courts 
and of synods, and on which it is impossible to look without feel- 
ing the heart at once elevated and touched by the noblest as well 
as the most solemn recollections. ' ' 

The celebrated Dean Swift was born at Cashel in 1667, 
Cashel is a town of about thirty-five hundred inhabitants. It 
appeared to be rather quiet and dull. In the center of the 
main street a large stone cross has been erected to com- 
memorate the jubilee year of Archbishop Croke. 

Cashel has been styled the " City of the Kings," from 
having been the residence of the Kings of Munster. 

Letting my " land, sir," driver return to Tipperary, I 
visited the postoffice, walked through the town and then 
hired another car to take me to Holy Cross Abbey, about 
nine miles away. My new driver was deaf, so we had not 
much talk. 

Holy Cross Abbey is a fine monastic ruin, pleasantly sit- 
uated on the bank of the River Suir. It was founded in 1182 
by Donald O'Brien, King of Limerick. Its owes its origin 
and its name to a piece of the True Cross presented in 1110 
by Pope Paschal to the monarch of all Ireland. It was 
placed in charge of the Cistercians. 

To my mind the monastic ruins of Holy Cross Abbey rank 
among the finest in Ireland. They are very well preserved. 



Holy Cross Abbey. 



639 



In the old burial ground within the ruins I read on a large 
Celtic stone cross: 

' ' Pray for the soul of 

Jeremiah Ryan, 

Died June 29th, 1840. 

Erected by his son, Archbishop Ryan, 

St. Louis, X". S., America." 

Though I knew that His Grace of Philadelphia was not 
the Archbishop of St. Louis, I wrote the inscription as I 
found it. 




HOLY CROSS ABBEY. 

A drive of three miles and a half brought me to Thurles, 
the residence of Archbishop Croke, Archbishop of Cashel. 
The Cathedral is very handsome. The town also contains the 
College of St. Patrick. A great battle was fought at 
Thurles in the Tenth Century between the Irish and the 
Danes. The population is about forty-five hundred. 

I took the train at Thurles, and after a ride of seventy- 



640 Kilkenny. 

five miles I reached Maryborough, a town of about three 
thousand inhabitants. I put up that night at the Hibernian 
Hotel. I took a walk through the town after supper and 
the next morning, and found not much to detain me in 
Maryborough, though it is a nice town and well situated. 
After Mass I took the train for Kilkenny. 

Kilkenny is a fine town of about fifteen thousand popula- 
tion. The beautiful River Nore is spanned by two fine bridges. 
From St. John's Bridge a good view is obtained of the castle. 
Looking up and down the river from this point there is much 
to charm the tourist. 

Kilkenny is called the "Marble City." In the oldeu 
days it was given as a dowry with Eva to Strongbow. It 
afterwards passed by purchase to the Butlers. Though it 
was made a penal ofi'ense for any man of English blood to 
marry Irish women, the statute was of no avail, and in 
time the Butlers became rebels as great as the Geraldines. 

The first printing press in Ireland was set up in Kilkenny. 
The castle, a noble structure, is entered from the Market 
Place. I took a walk along the pleasant pathway under the 
castle walls along the river. 

The Protestant Cathedral, built ages ago by Catholics, is 
a very fine stone structure, only inferior in size to Christ 
Church and St. Patrick's Cathedral in Dublin. It is recorded 
that in 1318 the east window was embellished with a stained 
glass window of so much beauty that the Pope's Nuncio, 
Rimini, offered £700 for it. But that large sum was refused. 
However, the fanatical followers of Cromwell demolished the 
window. A few fragments of it were preserved. Near the 
south transept of the Cathedral is a round tower, one hun- 
dred and eight feet high. 

The Catholic Cathedral, consecrated in 1857, is a fine 
stone structure. It is one hundred and seventy-five by ninety 
feet, and one hundred and twenty feet at the transept. The 



Kilkenny Castle. 



641 



central tower is two hundred feet high, St. Kieran's College 
is also a fine structure. 

Opposite the railway station I noticed a number of men 
at work on a large church being built of black marble, for 
which Kilkenny is noted. I went over and had a talk with 
one of the stone-cutters. He told me that the building 
would cost £40,000. I remarked that the priest would have 
o-reat trouble to raise such a sum. 




KILKENNY CASTLE. 



"Indeed, it will be no trouble at all, at all, to him. The 
church is to be finished entirely, and when complete the key 
will be given to the priest, and the people will take posses- 
sion without a penny of cost," he said. 

He then told me that a Mr. Creighton stood the whole 
cost, from a fortune left to him by an uncle in Australia. 

To do something for God — to lay up treasures in heaven, 
is the laudable ambition of a sincere and earnest Christian. 



642 KiLDARE — The Cell of St. Brigid. 

The stone-cutter, in reply to my question, said that the 
stone-cutters work ten hours a day, with half a day off on 
Saturday, and that their pay is thirty-two shillings a week, 
a sum equivalent to $8. 

From Kilkenny I went by rail to Carlow, about twenty- 
five miles distant. It is a pleasant town of about seven 
thousand, and is situated on the River Barrow. Carlow is 
the first place [in Ireland that was lighted by electricity. 
The Catholic Cathedral has a lofty tower, and contains a 
monument to Bishop Doyle by the celebrated sculptor, Hogan. 
The Doric Court House is an imposing building. 

One object of my trip from Cork was to visit Kildare, 
the Cell of St. Brigid and the Oak of St. Brigid. The name 
of the Irish Saint should be spelled Brigid, while the name 
of the Swedish Saint is spelled Bridget. In the " Irish Names 
of Places," by P. W. Joyce, LL. D., we read: "The manner 
in which St. Brigid's celebrated establishment was founded 
is stereotyped in the name of Kildare * * * j^ received 
its present name from ' a goodly fair oke,' under the shadow 
of which the Saint constructed her little cell." 

The oak still stood at the end of the Tenth Century. 
" For a very high oak stood which Brigid loved much, and 
blessed it." The Patroness of Ireland is sometimes called St. 
Bride. 

I found that St. Brigid's Church is in the possession of 
the English Church, now called the Church of Ireland. The 
old building has been repaired, in fact, renewed. There is a 
fine round tower, one hundred and thirty feet high, on the 
ground. I walked through and about the holy place. The 
sexton showed me a part of a large oak tree now prostrate. 
He said that numbers suppose it to be part of the original 
oak. He also said that many come from far-off lands 
to visit the place and get some mementoes. At my request 
he permitted me to take quite a large piece of bark from the 



St. Brigid's Church and Round Tower. 



643 



old oak. I was glad, to kneel on the ground consecrated by 
the presence and the prayers of the Mary of Erin, and by her 
sainted band of virgin followers. Her life and her many 
miracles testify that the Patroness of Ireland is high and 
powerful among the Saints of God. It is sad to find such 
sacred places in the hands of those who are strangers to 
Ireland and to her faith. 




ST. brigid's church and round tower. 

The town of Kildare is small but pretty, though very old. 
I called on the Carmelite Fathers there, and found one- who 
helped to found their new parish cut oif from St. Stephen's, 
in New York City. 

Kil is the first syllable of the names of a number of places 
in Ireland, as in Scotland. There is a legend of an English 
soldier, traveling in a third-class compartment in an Irish 
railway carriage, to whom the frequent recurrence of this 



644 Dublin Again. 

prefix caused no little anxiety. When the train was leaving 
a station, a countryman excitedly jumped into the carriage, 
and on being asked by the soldier the cause of his fluny, 
said: " I am coming from Killenaman, and am going to Kill- 
more ! " Tommy Atkins assumed that he was one of those 
Irish desperadoes of whom he had heard, and who was not 
satisfied with killing a man, but thirsted to kill more. 

The day after my second arrival in Dublin, I was much 
surprised to meet on the stairway of the hotel the Rev. 
Father Conway, from whom, it will be remembered, I got 
separated in the crowd at Dover nearly two months before. 
Our surprise and gratification at meeting were mutual. Ex- 
planations showed that we had been quite near to each 
other, and had nearly met on two occasions in London. We 
remained together during my stay in Dublin. When we 
compared notes, he said: 

''Well, you have traveled like one with the seven league 
boots. I've not been over half the ground you have covered." 

I finally started on my trip to Queenstown by the South 
of Ireland. The buildings are continuous and almost adjacent 
from Dublin to Kingstown and Dalkey, about eight miles 
away. 

Kingstown has a population of over seventeen thousand. 
It has a fine harbor, and is the principal yachting station in 
Ireland. It got its name from the fact that King George 
IV. embarked there for England at the close of his visit to 
Ireland in 1821. 

Dalkey is a nice town, finely situated, and its interesting 
history goes back for over six centuries. 



Bray, the "Brighton of Ireland." 



645 



CHAPTER LII. 

BRAY — WICKLOW — ITS VARIED AND BEAUTIFUL SCENERY — 

GLENDALOUGH, OR THE SEVEN CHURCHES — THE DEVIL'S 

GLEN — ST. KEVIN'S BED— AVONDALE AND THE VALE 

OF AVOCA — THE ARKLOW BRIDGE — WATERFORD. 

Bray, twelve miles from Dublin, is a celebrated watering 
place, the "Brighton of Ireland." It has a population of 
seven thousand. It is situated immediately on the bay, and 
is surrounded by a picturesque country. There are many 
fine hotels for the accommodation of the large number of 
visitors during the season. 

From Bray to Wicklow, a distance of sixteen miles, the 
railway runs along a beautiful stretch of coast line. The 




WICKLOW. 



646 



WiCKLOW. 



pebbly beach and the calm blue waters invite to rest and 
recreation. 

I arrived in the town of Wicklow, twenty-eight miles 
from Dublin, on Saturday evening. Taking a jaunting car, I 
was driven to a hotel called " The Grand." It is a new brick 
building in a quiet place, and well kept. I found that the 
rival houses are " The Green Tree," " Roache's " and " The 

Bridge." I took a stroll 
through the town, and 
finally got down to the 
harbor. Two boys of 
about twelve years 
rowed me over to the 
fine stone breakwater. 
From the outer end of 
that the view is charm- 
ing. The coast line is 
crescent - shaped for 
miles, presenting a fine 
beach for bathing. The 
bay rivals many more 
noted. The town, of 
some thirty-five hun- 
dred people, rises from the water and occupies a fine site. 
The verdant slopes and valleys run off to the surrounding 
Wicklow Mountains. I think it well here to quote a verse 
from Lady Dufferin's poem: 

"Sweet Wicklow Mountains! the sunlight sleeping 

On your green banks is a picture rare ; 
You crowd around me, like young girls peeping, 

And puzzling me to say which is most fair; 
As though you'd see your own sweet faces 

Reflected in that smooth and silver sea. 
Oh! my blessing on those lovely places, 

Thouaih no one cares how dear thev are to nie. ' ' 




WICKLOW CHURCH. 



The Parish Church. 



647 



It is hardly to be wondered at that Wicklow is called 
the "' Garden of Ireland." A variety of natural beauties 
present themselves at every turn. 

'Saturday evening I made my way to the home of the par- 
ish priest. He was very cordial in his reception. I celebrated 
the 8 o'clock Mass the following morning. A large sodality 
of men received Holy Communion, and the spacious stone 




MEETING OF THE WATERS. 



church was filled with a well-dressed congregation. I do not 
remember ever to have seen a more charming site for a 
church. It stands perhaps four hundred feet over the sea. 
The circular walks which lead up to it are wide, well-kept 
and embowered in trees and shrubbery. From the front of 
the church the spectator commands miles of verdant hills 
and rich valleys to the mountains in the distance. A little to 
the right of those, and as far as the eye can carry the vision, 
extend the circling beach and the blue waters of the bay. 



648 A Day's Outing. 

Walking Sunday afternoon through the beautiful garden 
which surrounds the priest's house, I came to the well- 
preserved ruins of a Franciscan Monastery, which was built 
in the time of King Henry III. 

Mr. M. Byrne called at the hotel with his jaunting car, 
and treated me to a fine drive behind a good horse. He 
brought me about two miles away to the farm and pleasant 
home of Mr. John McDaniel. 

Some of Mr. McDaniel's relatives were executed in the 
neighborhood for their participation in the rising of 1798. 
I had the unexpected pleasure of meeting a namesake, a first 
cousin, at the home of Mr. McDaniel. 

Mr. Byrne then drove me to the cozy home of his mother, 
Mrs. Elisha Byrne. We then went to Rathnew, a mile and a 
half from Wicklow, and made a few calls on some of the old 
people of the place. We then drove to Ashford, where I 
met Mr. .John Byrne and his family. Mrs. Byrne formerly 
lived in St. Edward's Parish, Cleveland, and is a sister of Mr. 
Cornelius Kelly. Mr. Byrne keeps the hotel at Ashford. It 
was arranged that Mr. Byrne would send to Wicklow for me 
the next morning, to take me through the "Devil's Glen," 
and thence to the "Seven Churches " at Glendalough. 

The next morning bright and early the car called, and I 
started for my day's outing. I passed, in the town of Wick- 
low, a fine monument erected to the man who laid the Atlan- 
tic cable. He was a native of the town. The road approach- 
ing Ashford is lined by large, stately trees, giving abundant 
shade and enclosing a noble driveway. Just before crossing 
the bridge Mr. Byrne met the car and conducted me through 
a most beautiful garden owned by a Dublin merchant, who 
spares no expense in its care and in supplying it with rare 
plants. 

I found at Mr. Byrne's hotel a fine rig and team ready 
for our day's drive. Mr. and Mrs. Byrne and two of their 



The "Devil's Glen." 



649 




THE DEVIL'S GLEN. 



650 



The " Devil's Glen." 



happy children, Miss Nora Kelly, sister of W. C. Kelly, of 
Cleveland, Miss Byrne and Mrs. Grayden, formerly of Cleve- 
land, and myself composed the party. We started for the 
" Devil's Glen " which is a great attraction for tourists. As 
a rule, people are permitted to drive only part way through 
the Glen, and must then walk one mile and a half, sending 




GLENDALOUGH, OR THE SEVEN CHURCHES. 



the horses back and around to meet them at the head of the 
Glen. Mr. Byrne had sent word to the owner, Col. C. G. 
Tottenham, requesting him to permit us to drive all the way 
through the Glen, as a compliment to their visitor, " a priest 
from America." The Colonel sent a written permission, 
which opened the gates of the lodge to us. 

The Glen is wild and grand. The deep ravine is well 
wooded and some of the views are thrilling. The accom- 



Glendalough — "St. Kevin's Bed." 



651 



panying cut of the 
"Devil's Glen," will 
convey a good idea 
of the place to the 
reader. 

A n Englishman 
said to an Irish 
guide: "The devil 
appears to own a 
great deal of prop- 
erty in Ireland. I've 
been shown the 
'Devil's. Bit; the 
'Devil's Glen' and 
several other places 
with his name at- 
tached." 

"True for you," 
said the guide, "but 
like many other 
landlords, the devil 
is an absentee, and 
lives in England," 

After a drive of 
over twelve miles 
through a fine coun- 
try, we reached 
Glendalough or the 
" Seven Churches. " 
St. Kevin, celebrated 
in Irish history, re- 
tired to this lonely 
spot in the Sixth 
Century and founded 







CLIMB TO ST. KEVIN'S BED. 



652 



Vale of Avoca. 



the " Seven Churches." The ruins of some of them and the 
Round Tower, one hundred and ten feet high, are well pre- 
served. 

We rowed over the lake and paid a visit to St. Kevin's 
Bed, a small cave in the perpendicular rock, some fifty feet 
over the water. 




VALE OF AA'OCA. 



Glendalough is surrounded by mighty mountains and dark 
winding glens. The ruins bear testimony to altars over- 
thrown and a worship made desolate. Glendalough appears 
to be a favorite burial place. AVe spent some time in the 
old cemetery and in examining the remarkable old ruins. 
Glendalough is one of the most famous places in Ireland. 

After having dined in one of the hotels we started for 
Rathdrum, over eight miles away. The drive presented a 
continuous panorama of beautiful and varied scenery, and was 



The "Meeting of the Waters." 



65? 



most delightful. As we approached the prettily situated 
town of Rathdrum, we had a good view of the sylvan glen of 
the Avonmore, with its bridge and its mills. We went directly 
to the station. I had greatly enjoyed the ride and the scenes 
of the day. I could not but gratefully appreciate the kind- 
ness of Mr. Byrne, and I much enjoyed the pleasant party 




FIRST meeting OF THE WATERS. 



and their hospitable friends whom we met on the way. I 
waved farewell as the train bore me to the Vale of Avoca. 

I soon passed and got a good view of Avondale, the coun- 
try seat of the late Charles Stewart Parnell. The railway 
runs through Avondale and the Vale of Avoca and quite close 
to the Avondale River, which it crosses several times, giving 
the tourist passing glimpses of exquisite scenery. I was 
much interested in the "Valley So Sweet" of which Moore 



654 



Arklow. 



wrote. At the "Meeting of the Waters" of the Avonmore 
and Avondale I thought of the lines of the Irish poet: 
' ' There is not in the wide world a vallej' so sweet 
As the vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet; 
Oh! the last rays of feeling and life must depart, 
E'er the bloom of that valley shall fade from my heart." 

The hills, rising to a height of from three hundred to 
live hundred feet and thickly clothed with timber, stand out 
clear against the bright azure sky. The commingling of the 
waters of the two rivers which have traveled so far alone, 
and thence go peacefully into the ocean, combine to make a 
beautiful scene and a lasting impression. 




ARKLOW BRIDGE. 

Wooden Bridge is beautifully situated at the junction of 
the Avoca, Arklow and Aughrim Valleys. The second " Meet- 
ing of the Waters " is formed here by the commingling of 
the Aughrim and Avoca Rivers. 

Arklow, forty-nine miles from Dublin, is a town of five 
thousand inhabitants. Fishing is one of the chief industries. 
Near the town, and close to the sea, are the largest factories 
for the production of explosives in the Three Kingdoms. 
The works cover two hundred acres of ground. The Avoca 
River at Arklow is spanned by a stone bridge of nineteen 
arches. The history of Arklow shows that it has been the 
scene of many battles. 

We passed through the towns of Inch and Gorey and 
reached Ferns, seventy miles from Dublin. 



-Along the River Slaney. 



655 



There is much to interest the lover of histqric ruins at 
Ferns. Ferns is called " The Bygone City of the Kings of 
Leinster." It is finely situated, but the population is only 
about eight hundred. 

Seven miles from Ferns I reached the thriving town of 
Enniscorthy on the River Slaney. It is in the midst of a 
smiling country, stands upon a hill over the river, and has a 
population of about seven thousand. It is I seventy-s^ven 




WATERFORD. 

miles from Dublin. During the rising in. 1798 Enniscorthy 
was the scene of many stirring events. The high hill on the 
opposite side of the river is known as ''Vinegar Hill." This 
was the principal encampment of the insurgents. The river 
is navigable to Wexford, about fifteen miles distant. 

Wexford is a wealthy, old-fashioned town, about ninety- 
three miles from Dublin, situated on the River Slaney. The 
town is about five miles from the sea. There is a fine Cath- 
olic Church. St. Peter's College is connected with it. The 



656 New Ross— Waterford. 

ruins of the old abbey are worth a visit. A house is shown 
that was occupied by Cromwell after he captured the town, 
in 1649. 

About one hundred and two miles from Dublin is the 
prosperous town of New Ross, situated on the River Barrow, 
a fine, wide stream. The town has a population of nearly 
sevei% thousand . An exciting boat race took place the 
evening I was there. To add to the excitement, a man fell 
from the dock into the river. He was finally fished out. A 
man shouted: "Barney, ain't you very wet?" 

" No, indeed," he said, " but I'm very dry." 

At New Ross are the ruins of a fine abbey, St. Mary's, 
founded early in the Sixth Century. New Ross was promi- 
nent in the rising of 1798. The town runs along the river 
and climbs the rather steep hill. The Catholics have two 
or three churches, and were building a large stone temple, at 
a cost, I should judge, of £30,000. 

About 9 o'clock in the morning I was aboard the steamer 
bound for Waterford, twenty-four miles distant. 1 was 
much amused while at the dock to notice the difficulty a 
number of men experienced in seeking to place some stub- 
born hogs on the steamer. We passed Pilltown and Dun- 
brody Abbey. The scenery along the whole route is beau- 
tiful, and at the confluence of the Suir and the Barrow is 
imposing. 

Waterford presents its best face to the traveler who ar- 
rives by rail or by river. The city of thirty thousand is 
built along the bank of its noble river, the Suir. Many ships 
lined the docks, and quite a large trade appeared to be 
carried on in live stock. A bridge, seven hundred and forty- 
five feet long, spans the river, r visited the Cathedral and 
found it to be a fine building. Waterford was the one place 
in Ireland that successfully resisted the all-conquering Crom- 
well. 



Mount Melleray. 



657 



CHAPTER LIII. 

FAREWELL TO IRELAND — MOUNT MELLERAY AND THE TRAP- 

PISTS — VALLEY OF THE BLACKWATER — YOUGHAL — 

QUEENSTOWN — THE HARBOR — THE LAST 

VIEW OF THE EMERALD ISLE. 

Having spent the greater part of the day in Water- 
ford I took a train for Cappoquin to visit the Monastery 
of the Trappists on Mount Melleray. 

I left Waterford by rail about 3 p. m., and after a ride of 
forty miles through an interesting country, abounding in 
varied scenery, I arrived at the town of Cappoquin, a lovely 
spot beautifully wooded and situated on the Blackwater, just 




MOUNT MELLERAY. 



658 The Famous Trappist Monastery. 

where that river turns south. I was soon aboard a jaunt- 
ing car for a trip to the famous Trappist Monastery of Mount 
Melleray, four miles distant, I had a gentleman in cleri- 
cal dress as a companion on the car. He proved to be a 
Christian Brother from St, John's, Newfoundland. 

The ride to the Monastery was most charming, abounding 
in beautiful scenery. When we turned from the main road 
up the private drive to the abbey, about a quarter of a mile 
distant, we found it so closely lined with fine shade trees 
that it proved a veritable arbor. 

When we arrived, a brother and the guest-master took 
us in charge and conducted us to our rooms. I went as soon 
as possible to ramble through the gardens and grounds. I 
was told by the priest in charge that I should be back by 8 
o'clock, as the doors would then be locked. That early hour 
was a new experience for me. However, I had time to walk 
through the beautiful gardens, and also to get a good view 
of th£ large and well-tilled farm of eight hundred acres. 

Before proceeding farther, I will give a short sketch of 
Mount Melleray: 

When troubles arose in France in 1830, the Trappists 
left and went to Ireland. They first settled in County 
Kerry, but soon left for the bleak and barren Knockmeal- 
down Mountains. The bleak hillside was given to the Trap- 
pists by Sir R. Keane. The place is nearly seven hundred 
feet above the sea. The rule of the Trappists imposes on 
the members prayer, self-denial, silence and manual labor for 
all, from the Abbot to the humblest member. The barren 
hillside, by constant and skillful industry, has been trans- 
formed into a fine farm of pastures and thriving plantations. 

The Monks built dams to control the mountain streams, 
and made artificial lakes, from which they get a sufficient 
force of water to drive the machinery for a mill. 

The community consists of about one hundred and twenty 



' Rules of the Monastery. 659 

members, priests and brothers. The monastery, itself is vis- 
ited by men only, but there are two guest-houses, one for 
men and the other for women. No charge whatever is 
made for bed or board, and a hearty welcome is extended to 
all classes, creeds and nationalities. An offering is accept- 
able, and, I think, is generally and generously bestowed. 
Confessions are heard almost continuously, and once a week 
a sermon is preached in Irish to the people of the neighbor- 
hood. The Monks teach the higher branches and impart a 
classical education, the students paying their board only. 

The priests wear a white and the brothers a brown habit. 
The dormitory has cramped, stall-like cells, containing a 
crucifix and a hard bed. The Trappists rise at 2 a. m., and 
the Masses begin at 4 a. m., and after devotions they go to 
work. About 11 a. m. they get their first food, consisting 
of coarse bread, porridge and vegetables. Work and prayer 
continue till 6 p. m., when a similar meal is taken, water be- 
ing the only beverage. More devotions follow, and they 
retire at 8 p. m. Silence is imposed on all except the porter 
and guest-master. 

Each year they have a Lent ^f seven months, from 
September to Easter. However, they never eat meat or fish. 
I asked the guest-master if such a vegetable diet was not 
unhealthy. He replied that I might look around and observe 
the inmates. He said their last Abbot had died lately at the 
age of eighty-three years, and the one before him had at- 
tained the age of ninety-six. The little cemetery enclosed in 
the court showed that the Monks had lived to more than the 
average age. 

At breakfast one of the Monks read a pious book while 
we partook of the meal. Struck by his appearance and in- 
telligence, I enquired about his personal history. I learned 
that he had been an eminent physician in the world, and that 
both he and his parish priest had entered the Trappist Com- 



660 Valley of the Blackwater. 

munity together. Why? To make more secure "the one 
thing necessary." 

Mount Melleray is an ideal place for a spiritual retreat 
and for a spiritual life. It is " by itSielf," " away from the 
world," and everything there tends to elevate the soul 
heavenward. 

Our jaunting car called the next morning and took 
the Christian Brother and myself back to Cappoquin. We 
boarded the steamer near the railway, for a ride on the 
Blackwater, the "Irish Rhine," to Youghal. The beautiful 
river, flowing southward, winds itself in and out through high 
cliffs, well-wooded banks and by some palatial homes. The 
first tributary we reached was the Finisk, on the banks of 
which is Affane House, where Raleigh planted the first cherry 
tree in Ireland. For miles on looking back we could see the 
Monastery of Mount Melleray, near the shadow of the dark 
hills. 

We passed near to Dromana Castle, where the " old 
Countess of Desmond " was born. It is said that she lived 
to be one hundred and forty years of age, and might have 
lived longer if she had not attempted to climb a tree for 
nuts. The fall caused her death. This is written in the 
able book of Robert Sydney. 

The bends in the river brought us many surprises, as 
they revealed new beauties along this grand stream. Many 
travelers have described the Blackwater as combining beau- 
ties unsurpassed either on the Rhine, the Rhone or the 
Danube. Its banks are bold, verdant and graceful. Thomas 
Davis, writing of it, penned the lines: 

" The pride of our sire land, 
The Eden of Ireland 
More precious than gold." 

The captain and pilot of our steamer was Mr. Patrick 
Dunn, of Youghal. We had an interesting talk during the 



YOUGHAL. 



661 



trip. I learned that he was a C. T. A. man, and that there 
was a flourishing society at Youghal. He invited me to their 
reading-rooms and hall, but I had not time to make the visit. 
He pointed out their headquarters as we entered the harbor. 
Youghal is on the western shore of the Blackwater, 
which is there half a mile wide. The town has a population 







VALLEY OP THE BLACKWATER. 



of about five thousand. It is built on a slope at the base of 
a steep hill. The harbor opens widely to the sea between 
bluff headlands. 

Sir Walter Raleigh was Mayor of Youghal from 1588 to 
1589. He introduced tobacco from Virginia. He also 
brought the potato. The gardener imagined that the apples 
on the stalk were to be eaten; hence he soon condemned the 
fruit. It was not until some time afterwards that he acci- 



662 QUEENSTOWN. 

dentally discovered the tubers on digging up the ground for 
another planting. 

There is an excellent beach for bathing purposes at 
Youghal. Several hundred people were disporting them- 
selves in the sea as I made my way to the train for Cork, 
about thirty miles distant. 

On my former visit to Cork I had made application for 
my steamer ticket. The agent, whose office is opposite the 
Victoria Hotel, said that he had requested the manager to 
reserve an entire state-room for me on the new steamer, 
" New England," bound westward on its second trip. 

After spending a few hours in Cork, I started for Queens- 
town to have a day and a half there before sailing for 
"Home, Sweet Home." 

I got a good room in the Queen's Hotel, overlooking the 
very fine harbor of Queenstown. " The Cove of Cork " was 
named Queenstown in honor of the Queen's visit there in 
1849. Her Majesty's next visit to Ireland was in April, 1900. 
We learn that she was so charmed with Erin that she 
resolved to spend part of each summer in that " dear and 
fair land." 

The city is delightfully situated on the south side of Goat 
Island. The town is built on the side of a high hill, which 
slopes down to the water's edge, and it has an attractive 
appearance, viewed from the harbor. Queenstown is con- 
sidered to be a fine health resort. It has a population of 
about ten thousand. 

The Catholic Cathedral is perhaps the finest church edi- 
fice in Ireland. It has been under construction, I was told, 
for over thirty years, and is not yet completed, though the 
interior is finished. It must have cost at least $500,000. 
It is a Gothic stone structure, and built on the summit of 
the hill; it can be seen from all sides. The Cathedral is 
dedicated to St. Colman 



The Harbor — Old-Fashioned Passage. 663 

Queenstown Harbor is three miles long and two broad.' 
It is completely, landlocked and capable of sheltering the 
whole British Navy. It is very strongly fortified, and with- 
out doubt one of the finest harbors in the world. 

I made several local excursions by boat while at Queens- 
town. On one of these I went to the town of Passage, 
formerly famous for its dock-yards and as a -watering place. 

"Father Prout" wrote humorously of the attractions of 
this old-fashioned place: 

' ' The town of Passage 
Is both large and spacious, 
And situate 
Upon the sa}^; 

"Tis nate and dacent, 
And quite adjacent 
To come from Cork 
On a summer day. 

There you may slip in 
To take a dipping 
Foment the shipping. 
That at anchor ride; 

Or in a wherry 
Cross o'er the ferry 
To Carrigaloe 

On the other side." 

Glenbrook and Monktown are interesting and picturesque 
places. Above this latter place may be seen Monktown 
Castle, nestling amid the trees. 

Having a day to spare I went down to the dock to go out 
on the "lighter" to the steamer "Brittanic," bound for New 
York. While we were waiting on the dock, a well-preserved 
old gentleman and his daughter, very agitated, hurriedly ap- 
proached us. They proved to be Americans. 

The old man asked, excitedly: "Has the 'tender' gone 
out yet?" 



664 "They Rule America." 

He was afraid that he had missed the "Brittanic." I 
replied that the "tender" had merely gone down to another 
dock to unload some freight, but that it would soon be back, 
and then take the passengers to the "Brittanic." The old 
gentleman then gave vent to his feelings about the ignor- 
ance and the lack of knowledge on the part of all about the 
station, and the absence of all direction as to where he 
should go to embark for the steamer. 

A man near me said to him: "I guess you have never 
traveled much in Ireland?" 

"No, I haven't; and I never want to travel in it again," 
replied the old man, with asperity. 

"Oh! well," said the other, "don't blame the Irish. They 
don't rule this country — they rule America." 

After the laugh was over I said to the last speaker: 
"You have paid a great compliment to the Irish." 

"How so?" 

" You stated that the Irish do not rule this country, 
which is badly ruled, and then you declared that they rule 
America, which you will admit is well ruled." 

"That's a fact, sir; you have got me dead to rights. 
Are you from America?" 

" Yes." 

We then had some talk together. I learned that he was 
a New York lawyer homeward bound. He then acknowl- 
edged that he had enjoyed the days he spent in Ireland, and 
that he liked the people. 

Soon the "tender" came and steamed out to the "Brit- 
tanic." There were many passengers aboard and quite an 
addition to the number was made from our boat. There 
was a large amount of mail to be taken aboard the " Brit- 
tanic " — perhaps eight hundred bags. While these were 
being transferred, the steamers, fastened together for the 
purpose of saving time, were plowing out into the ocean. 



Farewells, 665 

We had gone several miles when the task of unloading was 
completed. The lines were cast off and I was the only pas- 
senger on the " lighter " as it headed back to Queenstown. 
I must confess that I felt lonesome as I watched the "Brit- 
tanic," homeward bound, and fast disappearing in the dis- 
tance. But I was to follow on the morrow. 

I enjoyed some more water excursions to different points, 
and then walked through the parts of the town I had not 
visited. I spent some time in watching an interesting yacht 
race of nine entries. The fine harbor is well adapted for 
this sport. 

A fine band played in the evening in the park opposite 
the hotel. There was plenty of music from the many war 
ships in the harbor. Soldiers and marines were numerous 
on all sides, and I found the streets crowded in the evening. 

After breakfast I went to the " tender." Peddlers of all 
kinds lined the way. Blackthorns, logwood pipes, birds, 
shamrocks and other mementoes of every description were 
for sale. " 

The signal came: "The ' New England ' is in sight." The 
emigrants hurried to cross the gangway to the dock. Sad 
and tearful farewells were exchanged with friends by the 
emigrants leaving " home " for the foreign land, with a little 
money or "just trusting in God." Many an "American 
wake " was held, the night before by relatives and neighbors, 
with wild caoinings, mourning over the dear departing ones, 
and wishing them " Bannact Dea Leat " (God's blessing on 
the way). 

It was pathetic to see some emigrants clinging to a " pot 
of shamrock," a little mountain thrush, a red-billed blackbird 
in a wicker cage, or a few blackthorns to remind them of 
the " Ould Land " in the new. As I saw the tears and heard 
the sobs of parting friends, I turned to look seaward or 
gazed down the harbor to hide my own emotions. Cruel 



666 Last View of Ireland. 

necessity drives many from home and friends, and increases 
the exiles of Erin in foreign lands. 

We were soon alongside the " New England," a magnifi- 
cent new steamer, five hundred and sixty-nine feet long, and 
of eleven thousand tons. When all were aboard we cut 
loose from the "tender" and passed out into the ocean, while 
the cannons from the forts saluted. 

After leaving Queenstown we sailed for some time in 
sight of the "Green Hills of Ireland." As the Emerald Isle 
was fading from our sight many an emigrant bound for the 
land of the "black stranger," shed a. tear in memory of the 
happy days of yore and the loved ones left behind. 

On checking off the places which I had visited in Ireland, 
and noting their location, I was both surprised and gratified 
to find that I had been in every one of the thirty-two 
counties of the Emerald Isle. Few are the travelers or 
natives in Erin who have seen so much of that country. In 
addition to railway travel, I had ridden on "low cars" and 
"high cars" and "jaunting cars" over four hundred miles 
along the highways and through the byways of the Green 
Isle. 



On the Atlantic. QQ^i 



CHAPTER LIV. 

THE JOURNEY ENDED — ON THE ATLANTIC — SERVICES ABOARD 

SHIP — AMUSEMENTS — POST-IMPRESSIONS OP IRELAND — 

IN BOSTON — PROMOTING IMMIGRATION — WITH OLD 

FRIENDS — HOME, SWEET HOME — THE WELCOME. 

Our places on the steamer were soon assigned to us. An 
entire state-room was allotted to me in compliance with the 
request of the agent in Cork. The steamer being new, every- 
thing was '' spick and span." We had no rough sea to speak 
of on the voyage, but we had what I consider worse, because 
more dangerous, three days of heavy fog. It was rather 
doleful to wake up at night and hear the hoarse sound of the 
fog-horn, blown at intervals of half a minute. I was much 
surprised to notice that the speed of the steamer was dimin- 
ished very little. This fact rather ''alarmed some of the pas- 
sengers. However, I believe navigators differ as to the ad- 
visability of the fast or slow speed during a fog. Those who 
advocate fast speed in a fog argue that the ship is more apt 
to get by the danger point and escape a collision. The slow 
speed advocates claim that it is then easier to stop in case 
of danger of a collision. ■ Take your choice of the argu- 
ments. They remind me of a farmer who wanted to buy a 
cowbell of a pound in weight. The hardware clerk had none 
in stock so heavy. He told the farmer: "A half-pound 
bell is better." "Why?" "You will not be obliged then to 
go so far to find the cow." The clerk sold the bell. The 
" New England," being on its second trip, was anxious to 
make a good record. 

As usual, nearly all classes and many races were repre- 
sented among the passengers. There were four ministers 



668 Life Aboard the "New England." 

aboard. One of them, from England, had exchanged pulpits 
for a mutual vacation with a New York preacher. The 
name of the British minister was Healey. As he wore a 
'grey suit and knee breeches, a soft cap and a negligee shirt, 
he was not a,t first recognized as a minister. However, on 
Sunday he was attired in clerical garb. There were sixty- 
three first class passengers, sixty-four second cabin, and one 
hundred and thirty-seven in the steerage. Among the saloon 
passengers were the Countess of Dunmore, Lady Mildred 
Murray and Lady Victoria Murray. 

Passengers soon get acquainted on shipboard. As time 
hangs heavily there is always some one, or several, who get 
up programs to while away the time. One night we had a 
lecture on the Klondike by a man who had prospected there 
successfully. He also answered a number of questions. 
Another night there was an old-fashioned spelling-bee. The 
next evening, a minister on his way home from India gave 
a description of the plague and its ravages and its treatment 
in that far-off country. Then there was announced " a 
debate on woman suffrage," the principals being a lawyer 
and Rev. Mr. Healey. The minister did not appear, and the 
lawyer claimed the decision against such suffrage. I told 
Rev. Mr. Healey that, in my opinion, his non-appearance was 
concocted. He confessed as much. Another night a Dr. 
Walker exhibited a hundred or more magazine posters, and 
gave an interesting talk on them. 

One evening, at the end of a program, the audience stood 
up to sing " America." When it merged into " God Save 
the Queen," I sat down. Being in front, my action was no- 
ticed. I was in hopes that someone would ask me for an 
explanation. I had refused to take a part in the program, 
but I certainly would have spoken then on " Hands Across 
the Sea," or something else. 

I was the only priest aboard. I soon found that quite a 



Religious Services. 669 

large portion of the passengers were Catholics; some were 
returning after a visit to Europe. They were naturally much 
pleased to find one of their own clergymen on the steamer. 
We quickly became acquainted. On Saturday a number of 
them asked me if I would not hold some public service on 
Sunday. They said that they had had no service on the 
voyage over to Europe. 

The captain had been so busy at his post that I had not 
met him. I went up to the bridge and spoke to him on the 
subject. I said: "Captain, there are quite a number of 
Catholics aboard, and we wish to hold public services to- 
morrow forenoon." 

" Well, you cannot have Mass, can you ? " he asked. 

" No," I replied, " we have not the requisites; but we can 
have religious services." 

Knowing that the steerage passengers are kept strictly 
to their quarters on shipboard, I said: " We can hold ser- 
vices in the steerage, if necessary, and the cabin passengers 
who wish may attend." 

The Captain said: "The service will not be in the steer- 
age; I will speak to the steward and have proper arrange- 
ments made." 

On going to dinner the passengers saw, in the usual 
place for notices, in large letters: "There will be Catholic 
services in the cabin at 10 a. m., to-morrow." 

The captain was a Catholic, so was the surgeon of the 
ship and a number of the crew. 

Saturday I inquired among the passengers and found 
some Catholic young ladies who were both able and willing 
to sing. Sunday morning the large cabin was filled. The 
Catholics from the steerage were present, with their breth- 
ren from the other parts of the ship, and a number of non- 
Catholics. The program of the services was as follows: 1, 
hymn; 2, instruction; 3, hymn; 4, Litany of Jesus; 5. hymn; 



670 Amusements. 

6, Rosary; 7, hymn; 8, sermon; 9, Litany of B. V. Mary; 10, 
hymn. This was quite a program for the limited time we 
had to arrange it. 

The ministers held services in the evening, but the at- 
tendance was not nearly so large as at our services in the 
morning. Rev. Mr. Healey preached on *' The Athletic Games 
of Greece." What peculiar subjects the ministers sometimes 
take for their sermons. 

There were various amusements during the voyage to 
while away the time. Feats of individual strength, tugs of 
war and footracing were frequent. Rev. Mr. Healey, who 
was rather fat, ran a race around the ship with a Yankee, 
who, in the language of an Irishman, was " tall, slim and slin- 
der." The Yankee won by a few feet. While Rev. Healey 
was trying to get his breath he asked me: 

''What do you think of that?" 

I said to him: " You should not have run." 

"Why not?" 

"You are not built for running," I said; "you are built 
for rolling." Those present were much amused. 

One evening, while seated on deck engaged in conversa- 
tion with a number of Irishmen, I was asked: "Well, Father, 
what do you think of Ireland?" 

I said that Ireland deserved the designation of the poet: 

" She is a rich and rare land; 
Oh! she's a fresh and rair land 
She is a dear and rare land." 

" But," I said, " we notice the lack of American push and 
hustle. No doubt the laws, which have taxed energy and 
put a penalty on improvements, have unnerved individual 
exertion and business enterprise. But legislation has been 
improved, and a species of local government introduced 
which will doubtless improve past conditions. While I have 
observed some poverty in Ireland and noticed some hovels 



-Post-Impressions of Ireland. 671 

for habitations, I have seen more poverty in other countries, 
and seen dwellings even more unfit for human beings. The 
fact is that there is no country without object lessons 
of this nature. From appeals made frequently to America 
for aid, I had expected to see more general and widespread 
distress. In regard to churches, convents and schools, I 
think the people are better off than we in the United States. 
The buildings are of stone, as a rule, and the churches numer- 
ous and well furnished; marble altars and marble communion 
railings and even marble pulpits being much more com- 
mon than in America. The Irish people are relieved from 
the support of their schools by the government, and also from 
two-thirds of the expense of constructing the school build- 
ings. I must confess that my sympathy for Church wants 
in Ireland is not so great as it formerly was. I am very 
glad indeed that the Irish people have all these benefits and 
possessions at home. However, I think appeals to America 
have been too frequent, and not so necessary as they may 
have been years ago. Churches worth from $50,000 to 
$100,000 are not infrequent in towns of from one thousand 
to five thousand Inhabitants. I think that our calls are such 
that 'Charity begins at home.' The collector from Ireland 
for Church wants has, as far as I could observe, no legiti- 
mate reason for coming to America. 

"The natural beauties of Ireland are a valuable national 
asset. The people and tourists begin to realize that fact. 
Transportation companies and hotel-keepers have at last 
awakened, and with wide-open eyes, enlightened by delighted 
tourists, see the treasures Erin has in her scenery, wonder- 
ful in beauty, grandeur and variety. 

" Killarney has long been known, but there are many other 
places all over Ireland that equal, if they do not surpass, 
those entrancing beauties celebrated in story and in song. 
Let me mention the Kerry Peninsula, Glengariff, Parknasilla. 



672 Disconsolate Girls — Boston. 

Waterville, Clew Bay, Lough Gill, Lough Erne, the Black- 
water, the Shannon, Lisdoonvarna, Wicklow, etc. 

" The tourists are multiplying, and they hail from Eng- 
land, France, Germany and America. Ireland, I predict, will 
yet be the popular resort for those who leave home for 
pleasure and recreation. Capital will find a rich field for 
profitable investment in building hotels and improving by 
art places for which nature has done so much." 

One day, while walking through, the steerage, I came 
across four Irish girls seated at the very stern of the ship. 
They were sadly looking out over the trackless ocean, and 
were seasick, heartsick and homesick. They explained to 
me that they had just heard that they would not be allowed 
to depart from the government dock unless they possessed 
a certain amount of money and some-one to " go bail " for 
them. This news added to their burden of sorrow. I 
promised to see what I could do for them when the steamer 
reached Boston, and, if necessary, "go bail" for them. 
Thus encouraged, they were not so disconsolate. 

Very early in the morning we entered the beautiful 
Boston Harbor, after a voyage of six days and seven hours. 
The "New England" moved carefully, as the war torpedoes 
were still in the harbor as a protection against the dreaded 
Spanish fleet. 

It was raining quite hard when we reached the dock be- 
fore 6 a. m. After breakfast we had to sign " declarations " 
before the revenue officers. My baggage was lightly exam- 
ined, and it was easily passed. I then went to look for the 
four girls from the steerage. All steerage passengers are 
placed in an enclosure similar to a " pen " until " passed." 
I found the young women waiting in some trepidation. The 
interrogations of the government oflScer began. I was in- 
troduced to him by Mr. Farley, the steamship agent. The 
officer asked: "Father, are these girls in your charge?" 



Promoting Immigration. 



673 



" Yes," I replied. 

'' They do not appear to have enough money to pay then- 
expenses to McKeesport, near Pittsburg, their destination. 
Will you be responsible for the necessary expense ? " 

" Yes." 

" Then I must pass them." 




HOME PROM FOREIGN SHORES. 



Mr. Farley then introduced me to a Mrs. McGinity, who 
represented the St. Vincent de Paul Society of Boston, and 
who looked after Catholic emigrant girls. She took charge 
of the quartet. I arranged with Mr. Farley for the price of 
the railway tickets at the rate of $10 each. I soon met 
Mrs. McGinity again. She said: " Father, I find that these 
girls have enough money to pay for their tickets and all! 



674 With Old Friends. 

expenses to McKeesport. Hence you will not be obliged 
to advance any money for them. I will see that they are 
placed on the proper train for their destination." 

So I was relieved of that responsibility. I was not in a 
position to extend much financial help, though I had spoken 
quite confidently to the government official. I found that I 
had only $20 left after my journey with the sun around the 
world, and I had yet to travel over six hundred miles to 
reach home. That was a close margin after my long- 
journey. 

On the ship I had met a German physician who was on 
his way to seek his fortune in the Klondike. To save money 
he had taken steerage passage. The doctor knew no Eng- 
lish. When he saw me passing through the oflftce of the 
government examiners he appealed to me in German, com- 
plaining of his detention. I explained matters to the offi- 
cials. I then told the physician that in a mxoment he would 
be allowed to start for the Klondike. He was rejoiced. 

I bade good-bye to the young ladies who had sung at the 
Sunday services on the steamer, and to others. I then took 
a carriage to the hotel, and soon felt quite at home. 

Mr. and Mrs. J. W. Regan, from whom I had separated 
at Kobe, in Japan, called at the hotel to greet me. But I 
had gone out. Mr. Regan called, again and found me. We 
greeted as old friends — as comrades, after a hard campaign. 
I called at Mr. Regan's pleasant home. Soon after our greet- 
ing, Mrs. Regan said: "Father, you remember my hat which 
nearly spoiled our ride to the* Pali, in Honolulu?" 

"Indeed I do; nor will I soon forget it," I replied. 

"Well," said Mrs. Regan, "after all my care it got de- 
stroyed." 

On comparing notes, we found that we had nearly met 
in Jerusalem; and also in Rome. Mr. and Mrs. Regan had 
arrived home about three weeks before I reached Boston. 



"Home, Sweet Home." — The Welcome. 675 

With Mr. and Mrs. Regan I took a sail down the bay to 
Nantucket Beach, where the two Misses Regan were enjoy- 
ing their vacation from school teaching. After dinner I acci- 
dentally met Rev. E. Mears and Rev. G. P. Jennings, from 
home, in the dining-room of the hotel. The meeting was a 
delightful surprise. They had been in Boston seeking to find 
me. Both of these reverend friends had prominently assisted 
in my send-oflF, and I was rejoiced to meet them on my return. 

We remained together in Boston until after the National 
Convention of the C. T. A. U., where I made my tenth annual 
report as treasurer of the organization. During the gather- 
ing I met a number of old friends from home. I remained a 
few days as the guest of Mr. and Mrs. Regan, and then 
started to close the last stage of my long journey. 

At Painesville, twentyrfive miles east of Cleveland, I was 
greeted by a number of lay and clerical friends who had 
kindly come to meet me on my return from the trip around 
the world. I must confess that I was pleased to hear their 
hearty words of welcome and to feel the warm pressure of 
their hands. 

After supper our party was conveyed by special car to 
Cleveland. We were met on Euclid Avenue by the proces- 
sion, headed by the Knights of St. John, and escorted home 
amid many expressions of welcome. 

Mr. F. H. Glidden, standing on the steps of the church, 
amid a throng of people, expressed in a feeling address the 
formal greetings of the congregation. 

I need not describe the crowded church, the music and 
the decorations. In a short address I expressed my appreci- 
ation of the cordial greeting so generally extended, and of 
my gladness to be home among my people once more, after 
an absence of seven months and journeyings of over thirty 
thousand miles. I stated that during that time I had en- 
joyed good health and escaped all accidents, which blessing 



676 Retrospection. 

and protection I attributed to the many prayers offered 
daily during my wanderings the world around. 

I had started westward, and kept following the sun as it 
led me to strange lands and brought me to look into the faces 
of the different races of the earth, and to note their varying 
customs and habitations. Onward I went with the " Lumin- 
ary of the Day," until he finally brought me back to old and 
familiar scenes, to look again into the kindly eyes of my own. 
people, to greet old friends and to realize better that — 
" There is no place like home." 
I had seen many sights, but none so pleasing and so in- 
spiring as that which greeted me as I looked down from the 
pulpit and back into the sanctuary. 

The full and well-trained choir rendered fine music, and 
Benediction of the Blessed Sacrament was given. By spe- 
cial permission of the Holy Father, the Papal Blessing was 
solemnly imparted, and then the "Te Deum" was sung. As 
the procession of the servers and clergy left the sanctuary, 
the sweet voices of the children rang out: 
" You're welcome home." 
They had chanted at my departure the promise of the 
petition which had been kindly granted by an overruling 
Providence : 

" Your little ones will pray for you, 

Where'er your footsteps roam; 
That guardian angels may attend 
Till vou are safe at home." 



m 2 1900 



LIBHAHY Uh (^UNljHtbb 



020 196 973 6 



:i 



a 

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